Insulation of brick walls from the inside with your own hands. How to properly insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside How to insulate a brick house inside

Heat in the building essential condition coziness and comfort. Unfortunately, quite often the walls of the house are not insulated enough and do not keep the precious heat inside the room. Therefore, the insulation of brick walls from the outside becomes an urgent problem for building owners with insufficient thermal insulation. Despite the apparent complexity of the operation, it is quite possible to do it yourself, having previously studied all the nuances of the issue.

Choose a method: inside or outside

Any specialist will answer that when choosing an insulation option, it would be right to prefer an external structure. There are several reasons for this. First of all, a layer of insulation mounted on outer wall, will become a reliable barrier between indoor temperatures that are comfortable for a person and cold air “from the street”. In this case, the main wall is not only isolated from the impact low temperatures, but also receives additional protection from sunlight and moisture, which significantly extends its service life.

However, there is an opinion that external insulation is too laborious and complicated process. Therefore, the frightened owners of "cold" houses are thinking about how to insulate brick wall from within. Confident that it is quite simple and quite doable with your own hands. However, here lies serious mistake. The problem is that as a result internal insulation the wall will not become warmer, on the contrary, it is quite possible that it will freeze even more. This method of warming can lead to disastrous results.

Strictly speaking, internal thermal insulation of walls is allowed if:

There is a prohibition of the administration of the settlement on any changes to the facade of the building.
Behind the wall is an elevator shaft or any unheated room in which it is impossible to install insulation.
Behind the "cold" wall is located expansion joint between houses.

Internal wall insulation shifts the “dew point” towards the room, which leads to even greater freezing of the structure.

In these cases, the insulation of brick walls from the inside will become a necessary emergency measure. In other cases, the installation of external thermal insulation will be the most correct solution.

Choosing the "right" heater

You should know that there are no "bad" coatings. Each of them will cope with the task assigned to it. The difference lies in the features different types insulation and, of course, in their cost. If you want to save money, you need to compare available options and, taking into account all the nuances, choose the most suitable coating. You will have to choose from several options:

extruded polystyrene foam or XPS;
basalt slabs;
polyurethane foam;
polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam;
cellulose insulation;
mineral wool.

Differences in materials are vapor permeability, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity. These characteristics are the main ones when choosing a heater. The first two parameters are selected for the desired installation method and with the obligatory consideration of climatic conditions. The required thickness of the layer of the laid coating depends on the thermal conductivity. It is from this indicator that the choice of insulation begins. It is necessary to calculate the width of the insulating layer for different materials. At the same time, possible heat losses and the installed power must be taken into account. heating system.

Other things being equal, choose a heater that has the smallest layer width of all. It will be easier to put

If it is difficult to perform calculations based on GOSTs and SNiPs on your own, it is better to contact the design organization. The resulting calculations will be the basis for choosing the type of coverage. It is very important to take into account the number of layers of material required for insulation and its standard sizes. As practice shows, it is best to stop at the coating, which, with other things being the same qualities, has a smaller layer thickness. It will be much easier to put it on.

Preparing walls for thermal insulation

Before starting the insulation of brick walls, you should carefully prepare the base. For this old plaster or the insulation is stripped down to the brick. The wall is carefully examined. If various irregularities are visible, such as protrusions, recesses or height differences, they are smashed to an acceptable level or sealed with mortar. After the base has dried, it is thoroughly cleaned of dirt, settled dust. A primer is applied to a clean surface. It is best if it is a deep penetration solution. The surface dries well.

On the prepared basis, a system of plumb lines and beacons is mounted, which is necessary to obtain an even layer of insulation. The design defines the outer edges of the insulating layer, which greatly facilitates its installation and subsequent finishing. To equip the structure, screws or anchors are attached in a row to the upper edge of the wall. A strong thread or cord with a plumb line at the end is attached to each of them. They should go down to the very bottom of the base. Horizontal threads are laid and fixed between them. Thus, a grid is obtained, on which they are guided during the installation of insulation.

We work with mineral wool

If you are going to carry out the insulation of brick walls outside with mineral wool, they begin with the installation of the crate and frame system. This is necessary so that the material is firmly held on the wall. The crate is made from wooden beam, the width of the structure should be about 2-3 cm less than that of a sheet of cotton wool. Only in this case, she will be able to stand in her place tightly and without unnecessary gaps. Anchors are mounted together with the crate, and sheets of insulation will subsequently be put on them. If the wall is uneven, it is best to choose a two-layer coating. Its layers vary in density. More soft material must be directed to the wall, then the best adhesion between the base and the insulation will be ensured.

Scheme of insulation of a brick wall with mineral wool

Finishing over mineral wool can be very diverse. Most often, this is plastering with a reinforcing mesh or, when fixing the insulation with an external crate with wind protection, the use of various claddings: from brick to lining and siding. In the latter case, an excellent three-layer ventilated insulation is obtained, which can be used in almost any type of climate.

Insulation with polyurethane foam

The insulation is initially a foamed liquid. It is rather difficult to form a layer of the desired width and configuration from it, therefore it is most often used for thermal insulation of roof slopes and attic spaces. However, if desired, they can successfully insulate the walls of a brick house from the outside. The technology involves the construction of a frame with external wind protection and pouring the solution directly into it.

Undeniable dignity method is that maximum adhesion to the wall allows for excellent thermal insulation.

Thermal insulation with expanded polystyrene

Insulating walls with polystyrene foam and EPS is quite simple. First, a small shelf from a corner is mounted along the bottom of the insulated structure, which is necessary to align the insulation sheets. Sheets are attached to the wall with a special adhesive solution. The panels are abundantly lubricated with it, installed in a prepared place and pressed tightly. The evenness and correctness of the installation must be controlled using the level of a pre-mounted grid of plumb lines.

If it is supposed to be insulated in several layers, each subsequent one can be laid only after the already installed one has “grabbed” well. Experts recommend mounting insulation sheets with an offset of about half of the previous layer. Since the final strengthening of the panels is expected anchor fastenings, it turns out that each fastener holds not only the corners of the top sheet, but also the middle of the plates of the previous row.

The joints of the canvases must be glued with reinforcing plaster tape. In areas around window openings and at the corners of the building, the insulation must be fixed with special metal corners. A reinforcing mesh is fixed on the laid layer of thermal insulation, after which it becomes possible to carry out plastering. At the end of all work, all kinds of gaps or open places where access to the foam is possible should not remain. Otherwise, the insulation may be damaged by rodents.

The finish of the insulated wall can be very diverse.

The biggest disadvantage of such insulation is the low vapor permeability of the material. This can interfere with the removal of condensate and moisture from the wall. Therefore, experts strongly recommend that you thoroughly dry the walls before starting work. If this is not possible, it is worth making adjustments to your plans and constructing an insulating structure with a ventilated or at least partially ventilated facade. Only in this case, moisture will not be able to linger on the main walls and destroy them.

Of course, for the heat in the house you need to fight. Many intend to do it themselves. Recommendations on how to insulate a brick wall from the outside are quite simple. For their implementation, you do not need special knowledge and skills in the field of construction. Following all the instructions, patience and accuracy will allow you to get an excellent result, and invariably warm house will meet their owners with comfort and coziness.

Brick is durable and non-combustible material, it can withstand high loads and is used in the construction of buildings of various heights. The main disadvantage of such a house is the high thermal conductivity of the walls. You can solve the problem by increasing the thickness of the brickwork or by insulating the building from the outside.

Insulation of brick walls is divided into three types: external, internal and intra-wall. The latter option involves the construction of a building with well masonry and the placement of a heat insulator at the construction stage.

Internal insulation takes away the usable area of the premises, it provokes the dampness of the walls and is not effective enough. Its advantage is the ability to perform work at any convenient time and the low cost of materials. If you have a choice, you should give preference to external thermal insulation.

Among its advantages:

The walls are protected from external influences, so they will last a long time.
Significant reduction in heating costs.
The opportunity to create the architectural design of the house to your liking.
Absence of moisture, mold and fungus on the surface of the walls.

The main characteristics of thermal insulation materials

In order for the protection of brick walls to be reliable and durable, the materials used must have characteristics that allow them to withstand precipitation, wind, frost and heat.

The water absorption coefficient is a characteristic of a product that shows how much moisture it can absorb. It is better to choose a material with a low rate.
The coefficient of thermal conductivity is the main criterion in the study of insulation. It shows the amount of heated air lost in 1 hour per sq. m of material having a thickness of 1 m. This indicator is guided when choosing the thickness of the insulation layer. The best products according to this criterion are polystyrene and mineral wool.
Combustibility - determines how dangerous the material is in a fire. Products are divided into four cash registers according to this characteristic, it is better to give preference to G1, which go out without an open flame. Expanded polystyrene boards are prone to fire, using them for sheathing, choose with the marking "C", meaning self-extinguishing.
Density determines the amount of additional weight on the structure - the lower the indicator, the lighter the material.
The level of sound insulation indicates the possibilities for reducing penetrating noise. All popular heat insulators have this quality to a sufficient extent.
Environmental friendliness - the criterion determines the safety of the insulation for health. For exterior finish it is not decisive, but natural materials preferably synthetic.
The complexity of installation - if the work is done by one's own hands, it is necessary to choose a simple and understandable technology for laying thermal insulation.

The list of popular materials for cladding a house outside includes a few products:

Styrofoam;
extruded polystyrene foam;
mineral wool;
warm plaster.

They have a different composition, cost and installation features. Let's consider each material in detail.

Styrofoam - plates made of expanded polystyrene, which is a cell with gas. This structure provides low thermal conductivity of 0.032-0.039, good sound insulation and light weight. The foam density is 35-50 kg / m3, the recommended layer thickness is 10 cm. The material is able to absorb moisture, therefore it requires waterproofing. The downside of the insulation is flammability, vapor tightness and sensitivity to light.

Extruded polystyrene foam - the product has the properties of foam, but in an improved version. The material does not absorb water, it is more durable and easy to process, its thermal conductivity is 0.028-0.032. The cost of extruded polystyrene foam boards is higher than other materials for thermal insulation.

Mineral wool is one of the best heaters, it does not burn, is safe, has a low density - 35-125 kg / m3. The raw materials for the material are glass, stone and slag. Air voids of 10-15 cm remain between the fibers, due to which the mineral wool has a thermal conductivity of 0.04-0.045, absorbs noise well and passes steam. For effective protection, a layer of 10-15 cm is needed.

The product is available in the form of rolls, mats and plates. Basalt wool in the slab version is characterized by resistance to deformation and increased density - 75-150 kg/m3. the material fits easily into the frame and does not cause problems during installation. The only drawback of mineral wool is its high water absorption, which requires mandatory waterproofing. The heater is affordable, which contributes to its popularity.

Warm plaster - a dry mixture of cement, lime, plasticizers and additives from expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay, perlite. The material is somewhat inferior in terms of thermal insulation - 0.06-0.065, but has many advantages: it does not burn, has vapor permeability, is resistant to moisture and microorganisms, and isolates sound well. Plaster has a significant density of 200-350 kg / m3, so it puts an additional load on the foundation. The maximum insulation thickness is 5 cm.

Talking about how to insulate brick house outside, the possibility of finishing with thermal panels should not be missed. This material is characterized by a low thermal conductivity of 0.025 with a small thickness of 60-100 mm. The basis of the product is polyurethane foam, the decorative part is made of ceramic tiles. The material is resistant to frost and moisture, quickly mounted and does not require additional finishing.

Thermal insulation technology with mineral wool

Insulation of a brick house is carried out in two ways:

creation of a ventilated facade;
« wet facade”, gluing plates to walls.

Mineral wool is optimally suited for the first method, which involves the creation of a crate and a multilayer cake with vapor and waterproofing.

On the surface of the walls, a crate is stuffed from a bar treated with an antiseptic composition, or a metal profile. The guides are placed in increments less than the width of the insulation by 2 cm. This will allow you to lay the material more densely.
Mineral wool is laid between the bars and covered with a waterproofing sheet.
The film is attached to the crate with a stapler.
Thin slats are stuffed over the protection against moisture, which will provide an air gap between the insulation and the cladding.
Siding is attached to the rails.

Basalt wool slabs are strong enough to be mounted without a frame. Proper styling insulation begins with screwing a horizontal metal profile at the bottom, which will keep the material from slipping. The plates are fixed with special glue and dowels with a wide cap. Each row starts with an offset. After finishing all surfaces of the facade, a mesh is laid on the mineral wool and a layer of plaster is applied.

Insulation of the house with foam plastic according to the principle of "wet facade"

Panels of foam or extruded polystyrene foam are attached to the wall using a simple technique called "wet facade" due to the presence of processes that require drying.

A brick wall is being prepared: cleaning from dirt, eliminating defects, priming.
A metal profile is attached at the basement level, which will become a beacon when laying the first row and a drip for moisture.
Glue is applied pointwise to the insulation plates, and they are pressed against the wall.
Additional fastening is carried out with dowels - in the corners and in the center.
Work starts from the bottom of the corner, the rows are stacked with an offset for the stability of the structure.
Lay on top of the finished insulation plastic mesh for reinforcement and apply thin base layer plasters.
After the solution has dried, priming and final finishing with decorative plaster are performed.

How to apply warm plaster on the walls?

Working with insulating plaster will take time, especially in the absence of painting skills. To properly prepare the solution, the mixture is diluted according to the instructions.

Brick walls are cleaned, protruding parts are removed. The surface is primed with a penetrating compound.
fastened plaster mesh and beacons to create a common plane.
The prepared solution is applied to the walls. The thickness of the layer depends on climatic conditions, but it should not exceed 5 cm.
On finished surface you can create a variety of decorative textures.

The considered heaters can be used in any region, the thickness of effective thermal insulation is calculated according to local climatic characteristics.

Warming a brick house from the inside has a number of disadvantages compared to warming the outer surface of the walls. Therefore, when deciding to take such a step, you should understand that internal insulation is much less effective than external insulation, and you should not count on special comfort in a harsh winter. In addition, serious internal insulation will reduce the house from the inside - at least 10 cm along each wall. After the completion of the insulation work, it will be necessary to carry out the interior decoration of the walls.

When insulating walls from the inside, do not forget about vapor barrier, all materials for insulation are afraid of water.

The advantage of internal insulation is its cost - lower than the cost of external insulation. In addition, the house retains its external architectural appearance.

Sometimes insulation from the inside is the only thing possible option- for example, in the case of a cold wall in a brick high-rise building.

Starting the internal insulation of the walls of a brick house, one should be guided by the principle of increasing the vapor permeability of the material to the outside.

When choosing a material for insulating a brick wall from the inside, it is necessary to take into account the "dew point".

That is, it is necessary to choose a heater with a lower vapor permeability than a brick. This is necessary so that moisture from the air inside the house does not penetrate the masonry, thereby increasing its freezing. On the walls wet from condensation under the insulation, fungus and mold quickly grow, and this not only destroys the house, but also negatively affects the health of its inhabitants.

Therefore, before, it is plastered and coated with special antiseptic and antifungal solutions.

It is also necessary to organize good ventilation in the house, whether it be special ventilation holes with access to the mine or just regular ventilation.

It is necessary to decide why exactly you intend from the inside - the reason for this is year-round living or just a comfortable stay in bad weather or off-season. It depends on what type of insulation it makes sense to choose.

Consider the most popular types of insulation and the features of their installation from the inside of the house.

Features of penofol

Scheme of insulation with penofol, foiled on both sides.

It is a reflective multilayer insulating material consisting of a base (foamed polyethylene different thickness from 3 to 10 mm) and construction foil. If you want to insulate a brick house that is used only at positive temperatures (for example, a summer cottage), penofol can be chosen as an independent insulation. In addition, penofol is used as an additional insulation plus vapor barrier when using mineral wool. Penofol is of three types: "A" - with one-sided foiling (for walls), "B" - with double-sided foiling (for interfloor partitions) and "C" - with one-sided foiling and a self-adhesive layer. It must be remembered that aluminum is a good conductor of electricity, and before you insulate the walls, you need to insulate the wiring well. The advantage of this material is the minimal loss of internal space, since the insulation with a standard 4 mm thick foam foam is equal to an eight-centimeter layer of mineral wool with a vapor barrier film.

Required materials: penofol, aluminum adhesive tape, wooden blocks 20 mm thick for the crate, wood / drywall screws, drywall or lining.

Penofol is fixed end-to-end, the junction is fixed with adhesive tape.

Necessary equipment: a knife, a construction stapler, a saw for bars, a puncher with a drill suitable for self-tapping screws.

on the wall of the house from the inside we fasten a crate of wooden bars in such a way that an air layer of 20 mm is maintained between the foam and the brick;
on the crate with a construction stapler we fasten the penofol with a foil layer inside the room end-to-end, glue the joints with aluminum adhesive tape;
we install a second crate of two-centimeter bars on top of the penofol;
we attach drywall or lining to the crate. In the case of drywall, we finish the exterior finish - we putty the seams, paint the wall or paste over with wallpaper.

Sometimes penofol is attached directly to the wall with glue or double-sided tape. This simplifies the work, but makes the insulation less effective. It is also possible to stick wallpaper directly on penofol, however, the wall becomes “soft” and dents remain on it.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene

Scheme of insulation of a brick wall from the inside with foam.

In other words, this is a well-known foam. Easy to install, lightweight and budget option, available to anyone who wants to insulate their home from the inside. For greater fire resistance and less brittleness, we advise you to choose extruded polystyrene foam. Choose the thickness and density of the sheets depending on the purpose of insulation.

Necessary materials: expanded polystyrene, polyurethane foam, glue for expanded polystyrene, mounting dish-shaped dowels-“fungi”, metal profile for drywall, drywall, drywall screws.

Necessary equipment: a knife, metal scissors, a wide spatula-comb for applying glue and a small handy spatula, a bucket for diluting glue, metal scissors, a puncher with a drill suitable for "fungi" and self-tapping screws, a nozzle for mixing glue or just a rod.

Polyfoam is affordable, easy to install and quite durable. The disadvantage of this material is that it takes up a lot of space.

we dilute the glue for polystyrene foam in accordance with the instructions (we choose carefully, since the foam is destroyed by a number of paint and varnish and nitro paints);
apply glue with a spatula to the walls;
we glue sheets of expanded polystyrene, carefully tap them to avoid air "pockets";
we blow out loose seams between the sheets with mounting foam;
cut the profile into "crabs" 10 cm long;
we turn the pieces of the profile with the flat side to the foam, with “fungi” we attract them to the wall;
on these "crabs" we fasten the crate from the profile;
fasten drywall to the crate, then exterior finish- we putty the seams, paint the walls or glue the wallpaper.

It is not recommended to install a profile between sheets of expanded polystyrene directly on the wall, because in this case the so-called "cold bridges" are formed, which not only make the room cold, but create conditions for the appearance of moisture and mold.

The use of mineral wool

Scheme of wall insulation with mineral wool, protected on both sides by a vapor barrier.

Another budget and widespread type of insulation. The disadvantages of mineral wool include its high vapor permeability and carcinogenicity. Therefore, when insulating a house, it is necessary, firstly, to use a vapor barrier film, and secondly, when working with mineral wool, wear long-sleeved clothes, work with gloves and a respirator. To safely insulate the house from the inside, the mineral wool must be sewn up - with drywall, plywood, clapboard, etc.

Required materials: mineral wool in sheets or rolls, vapor barrier film (optional - glassine, cellophane, penofol), metal drywall profile (guide and rack), drywall screws, Delta type vapor barrier adhesive, aluminum or acrylic adhesive tape.

Necessary equipment: knife, metal shears, perforator, level (ideally laser).

For the installation of mineral wool, you will definitely need a crate. It can be made from a metal profile or wooden bars.

glue a vapor barrier film on the wall, glue the joints with adhesive tape;
use a level to set along the walls metal carcass from the profile, it should be separated from the wall surface at a distance slightly less than the thickness of the mineral wool. The frame must be made as rigid as possible, the distance between the longitudinal profiles should be slightly less than the width of the sheet or roll of mineral wool;
we evenly fill the distance between the wall and the frame with mineral wool, the insulation should lie tightly, but not be overly compacted - it is not the fibers that retain heat, but the air between them;
we fix a layer of vapor barrier or penofol on top, glue the joints;
we mount drywall, then - the exterior finish.

In addition to the walls, it makes sense to insulate the floor and ceiling.

To insulate the floor, logs from a bar are attached to the existing surface, either expanded polystyrene is laid between them, followed by foaming of the seams, or mineral wool is tightly clogged. After that, we recommend laying the floor with a vapor barrier film so that moisture from the house does not get into the “pie” of insulation and timber. Then floor boards and thick plywood are laid, which can be painted, or linoleum or laminate can be laid on top.

The ceiling can be insulated by analogy with the walls. Having completed all these works, you will get a room that retains heat well.

The quality of the central heating leaves much to be desired, besides the time and external factors negatively affect the condition of the supporting structures. Heating bills are rising, but it is not getting warmer. It is reasonable to solve such problems by insulating the walls of housing. This is especially true for brick and panel houses.

Insulation efficiency

The choice of an external or internal method of insulation is fundamental and requires a responsible approach. When installing an insulating barrier from the inside, brick walls do not come into contact with the heat of the room and therefore can freeze up to the boundaries of contact with the insulation.

Such a development of events negates the effect of thermal insulation, or even does not give it at all. External insulation has the opposite effect and is therefore several times superior to the opponent. But there are circumstances in which the installation of insulation on the surface of the wall is not possible.

Grounds for work from the inside

The only argument in favor of internal insulation can be:

prohibition of local authorities on works related to changing the facade of buildings (architectural monuments, buildings of central streets, etc.);
outside there is a deformation seam;
the wall separates the room from the elevator shaft or other technical room where there is no access for insulation installation;
internal insulation is provided by the house construction project.

If there are no options to avoid indoor insulation, then it is necessary to take seriously the organization of work, from the selection of thermal insulation composites to the installation technology.

Features of internal insulation

Insulation of internal surfaces affects the position of the dew point, shifting it to the inner boundary load-bearing structure. This term denotes a conditional place on the plane where the release (condensation) of moisture from the heated air in the room occurs. It should be located no deeper than the middle of the section of the brick wall, and preferably as close as possible to the outer edge.

Constant dampness leads to the appearance of harmful microorganisms (mold), cracks and breaks in the walls, and the loss of the thermal insulation qualities of the barrier. Brickwork is most susceptible to the negative influence of moisture.

thermal insulation internal walls, which satisfies the requirements put forward, will be made in the form of a new wall, mounted close to or with air gap. But you should be prepared for the fact that the usable area of \u200b\u200bhousing will decrease. This is especially noticeable in small apartments.

Composite selection

When choosing a material for thermal insulation from inside the room, one must first of all proceed from the indicators of vapor permeability and moisture absorption. Further, it is worth considering that the seams and docking gaps are the place where moisture enters the room and air penetrates to the cold surface.

What won't fit

Styrofoam forms many seams that require additional sealing, and also has a high moisture absorption rate. From the point of view of fire safety of a residential building, it is better not to use it, since it burns with the release of toxic substances.

polyurethane foam

It has excellent moisture protection and thermal insulation performance, as well as good adhesion on a brick surface. Masonry does not require special processing and alignment. The only significant disadvantage is the complexity of installation.

Cured polyurethane foam is unstable to mechanical stress and requires additional protection. The boundary of moisture formation will be either on the inner surface of the wall, or in the thickness of the insulation. But due to the good hermetic properties of polyurethane, condensation is not observed.

Of the available materials, polystyrene foam obtained by high pressure extrusion is also suitable. Although it is mounted with the formation of a large number of joints, it has good performance moisture resistance and vapor permeability, and smolders when ignited.

It is quite possible to mount it with your own hands, without involving professional builders. But you should strictly adhere to the assembly technology and process stages.

The sequence of thermal insulation work

Having decided on the insulation material and installation method, you can go shopping. It is important to remember that saving on composites or changing the installation technology for this purpose can lead to big troubles.

Preparatory stage

It is necessary to insulate a brick house at a temperature not lower than 20 0С and low air humidity in order to achieve maximum dryness of the walls. It is advisable to additionally dry the surfaces with a heat gun before starting work in order to achieve drying of the partition from the inside.

All debris and dust must be removed. A properly prepared surface should not contain anything other than load-bearing structural elements.

Places affected by fungal spores and subjected to prolonged exposure to moisture require increased attention. The fight against mold ends with the application of antiseptics and a deep penetration primer to the wall. Each applied layer must dry well.

Before using expanded polystyrene, the surface is leveled with special water-repellent mixtures. The putty must dry and reach the required strength from the inside. This is a matter of several days, and the use of heat-generating devices is not recommended.

The finished wall is covered with two layers of soil and allowed to dry. Such careful preparation require a brick structure. Concrete panels are quite even and only need to be treated with sealants. Next comes the layout of the thermal insulation material.

Working with polyurethane foam

When applied, polyurethane has a liquid consistency, so a layer with a thickness of more than 2 cm must be sprayed in several stages.

Formwork and division of the plane into segments are used to evenly distribute the material over the layer. The frame structure is unacceptable, as it violates the integrity of the coating.

Work with polystyrene foam should begin after the brickwork has been leveled and primed. And as fasteners, use mixtures with moisture-proof properties, applying them evenly on the sheet so that air “pillows” do not appear.

The resulting seams, as well as the joints of the plates, must be carefully treated with sealants. And for the construction of a protective layer, use a special profile, previously inserted into the seam and fixed to the ceiling and floor.

protective layer

The installed insulation must dry before laying the waterproofing barrier. After that, you can proceed to the construction of a protective layer to be decorated (wallpaper, tiles, painting).
The most practical option is to assemble a frame for attaching drywall, only fixing should be carried out to adjacent walls, ceiling and floor, so as not to violate the integrity of the layer. Or masonry is done in half a brick.

Extruded polystyrene foam can be completely puttied, covered with a reinforcing mesh, but if there were flaws in the installation, they will soon appear, besides, the mechanical strength and practicality are inferior to drywall.

Properly selected heat-insulating composite and strict adherence to installation rules will add to the external fortress of a brick house internal heat and comfort.

September 3, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works(laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high technology, computer technology, programming.

My neighbor has brick bath, which he decided to insulate from the outside with polystyrene foam or stone wool. Called me for help. We spent four days on work, as we decided not to plaster the walls, but to decorate them with siding.

Today I will tell you how and with what to insulate a residential building with brick walls from the outside.

The choice of the method of placement of insulating material

First, let's figure out which side is better to mount thermal insulation on the walls of a brick building. Personally, I usually use two methods of warming a house or, for example, a bath - from the inside and outside.

You can, of course, still install heat-insulating material on both sides, but this method for middle lane Russia, in my opinion, is redundant. Although for the regions of the Far North it has the right to exist.

I must say right away that I usually try to mount heat-insulating material on the facades of buildings, since insulation from the inside of a brick wall has several significant disadvantages:

The usable area inside the premises is reduced. You need to install not only the heat-insulating material itself, but also devices for its installation plus vapor barrier films and decorative material. As a result, the thickness of the enclosing structures will increase much, which will lead to a decrease in the size of the rooms.
There is a need to dismantle the decorative finishes of the premises. If measures to insulate a house or bath are carried out after putting it into operation, then to install the insulation, it will be necessary to remove the interior trim (wallpaper, panels, and so on), and then put them back (which is not always possible).

This technology increases the time to carry out the work, the estimated cost of insulation and labor costs.

Humidity rises in the room. If for thermal insulation you used vapor-proof insulation and dense vapor barrier membranes, the air will not pass through the enclosing walls, and the moisture dissolved in it will accumulate inside the room.
As a result, you will either have to suffer from dampness, or equip very effective ventilation (usually I do forced ventilation in such cases).
In some cases, mold and fungus appear on walls and other surfaces. This is due to the violation of air exchange in the room and an increase in the level of humidity.
Moreover, harmful microorganisms can develop not only on surfaces, but also inside the insulating cake, which greatly reduces the life of the heat insulator.
When insulating internal surfaces, you do not protect against destructive external influences building walls. They will constantly experience significant temperature fluctuations, which also leads to the destruction of their internal structure and a reduction in service life.

Therefore, before insulating a brick wall from the inside, always consider the possibility of external thermal insulation. After all, this method, unlike the one discussed above, has many advantages:

If the thermal insulation material is installed outside, it not only prevents unproductive heat loss from the living quarters, but also protects the brick walls from the annual freeze and thaw cycles.
External insulation technology allows you to shift the dew point inside the building envelope so that the condensed moisture is removed to the outside through the ventilation gaps in the insulation layer, and does not accumulate inside, leading to damage to the wall.
Insulation allows you to increase the thermal inertia of a heat-insulated structure. The bottom line is that during operation, the walls gradually accumulate thermal energy and, with a short-term decrease in air temperature outside, there are ways to independently maintain the desired microclimate in the house for some time without using heating devices.
Measures for external insulation of the house can easily be combined with decorative facade decoration. This reduces the cost of thermal insulation and the time for project implementation.
Properly selected material allows not only to insulate the building, but also to perform its sound insulation. The thermal insulator layer effectively absorbs sound waves.

This method has many more advantages that are not so significant, so I will not talk about them. It is much more important to figure out which insulation is best for the walls of a brick house.

The choice of insulation

So, let's figure out the better to insulate a brick bathhouse or a house from the outside. I will not now talk about all the variety presented on construction market insulating materials.

I can only say that I prefer mineral (namely, basalt) wool to all of them, formed into mats of a certain length, width and thickness. This heater has a huge number of advantages:

Low thermal conductivity. Mineral wool is a very effective heat insulator, which allows you to install a thin layer of insulation. For central Russia, 10 cm is enough to effectively retain heat inside living rooms.
High vapor permeability. Fiber mats do not prevent the passage of air molecules through the mineral surfaces. This contributes to the self-regulation of indoor humidity and the formation of a comfortable microclimate for living there.
Light weight. The heat-insulating material itself and the structures necessary for its fixing (wooden crate and siding) after installation on the walls do not exert a large load on the structural elements.
hydrophobic properties. Basalt fibers, which are made from minerals of volcanic origin, absolutely do not absorb water. In addition, during the production process, mineral wool insulation is treated with hydrophobic substances that prevent the accumulation of moisture inside the heat-insulating layer. Subject to the installation technology, basalt mats do not change their heat-preserving properties depending on the level of humidity in the street.
High sound absorption coefficient. The insulation I am considering, unlike, for example, polystyrene foam, has open structure and fibers oriented in different directions. Therefore, it absorbs sound waves well and acts as an effective sound insulator.

Fire resistance. The melting temperature of basalt fibers is over 1000 degrees Celsius. Therefore, in case of fire, mineral wool does not ignite and does not contribute to the further spread of fire. The material does not emit toxic substances into the air that make it difficult to evacuate or extinguish a fire.
Environmental friendliness. Products are prepared from natural volcanic stone, which is absolutely harmless. Formaldehyde resin is used to glue the fibers, but it is exposed to a temperature of 250-300 degrees, after which it becomes practically harmless to the human body.
Ease of installation. For the installation of mineral wool on the outer surface of the walls, you need minimum set tools and fixtures. And about how to fix the insulation, I will just tell you a little lower.

In principle, foam plastic has similar properties, the price of which is lower than the cost of basalt wool. However, he:

firstly, it is not vapor-permeable, which means that the rooms will be humid;
and secondly, it is a very combustible material and, when ignited, releases chemical compounds dangerous to humans.

Therefore, I prefer to use foam plastic only when the cost of insulation for the customer is very critical or when it is necessary to finish the facade with a thin layer of cement screed.

In the case described, I purchased TechnoNikol Technoblock thermal insulation standard with a thickness of 50 mm and dimensions of 1200 by 600 mm. The density of the material is 45 kg per cubic meter. One package of mineral wool boards is enough for finishing 8.6 square meters walls.

Insulation installation technology

I have already mentioned a little that the insulating layer in the case I am describing will be 10 cm thick. However, I will mount it on a different crate, located perpendicularly. Thus, the formation of cold bridges along the seams of the insulating layer can be excluded.

Required Tools

Mineral mats are not all that is needed in the process of insulating the brick walls of a residential house or bathhouse. Let's take another:

wooden blocks with a section of 50 by 50 mm, from which a crate will be made for installing insulation;
dowels with screws or dowel-nails that will hold the crate on the outer surface of the walls;
primer with antiseptic for pre-treatment of mineral surfaces before installing thermal insulation;
a waterproofing membrane that will protect the insulation under the cladding from exposure to atmospheric moisture and wind fraying;
adhesive double-sided tape for sealing the joints between individual sheets of waterproofing film.
U-shaped perforated brackets on which the crate for external decorative material is fixed;
galvanized profiles to which fittings and plastic siding will be attached;
siding, initial, corner, intermediate and finishing profiles for its installation;
screws, screws and nails that may be needed in the process.

We decided on the materials, now the tools:

puncher or impact drill for making holes in brick walls (dowels with screws holding them will be inserted into them wooden crate on the walls);
screwdriver for screwing fasteners when installing siding;
brush or roller for priming walls;
construction stapler with staples for fixing the waterproofing film on the crate;
carpenter's knife or saw with fine teeth for cutting mineral mats;
measuring devices (tape measure, level, marker, and so on).

Considering that mineral wool does not irritate the skin and mucous membranes of the human body, it is not necessary to take any special measures to protect the respiratory organs and hands. You can just put on work clothes and linen gloves.

Training

Before fixing the insulation from the outside, I always prepare the surface of the walls. This procedure is simple, but the life of the heat-insulating layer largely depends on it.

The scheme of work is as follows:

Repairing a brick wall. It is necessary to rid the brick wall of defects and irregularities that may interfere with the installation of the crate and insulation.

First of all, with the help of a perforator, I get rid of various ledges and architectural decorations, which often abound in the brickwork of houses built in the last century. All details in the form of rhombuses, triangles and squares must be knocked down, otherwise they can cause the formation of cold bridges that worsen the effectiveness of thermal insulation.

I also always inspect the brick wall for cracks, chips and other such defects. They need to be filled with mounting foam or repaired with cement mortar.

I clean the mineral surface. Need to get rid of after repair brickwork from traces of debris, dust and remnants of building materials.

If during the repair of the wall you used mounting foam, you need to cut off its excess with a clerical knife. Also clean the remains of the cement mortar from the brick, which dripped from the trowel during the repair, and froze on the wall.

I always pay special attention to finding and removing metal objects (pieces of wire, fittings, and so on). It is better to get rid of them, since during operation they corrode and can cause premature destruction or damage to the enclosing walls or the insulation layer.

Dirt brick wall. This procedure improves the adhesive properties of the surface and prevents the appearance of mold and mildew on the walls.

It is necessary to use a primer for brick walls with an additional antiseptic effect. I can give Caparol FungiGrund as an example, but you can use something else.

It is desirable to cover the wall in two layers. But the second should be applied only after the first is completely dry.

At the same time, it is possible to perform antiseptic treatment of wooden bars that will be needed for the crate. Only you need to take a liquid specially designed for application to wood.

After all the compositions have dried, you can proceed to the next stage of work.

Installation of mineral wool

We continue to work:

I install the bars of the first row of insulation.
Mounted wooden elements on a brick wall using dowel-nails or screws. To do this, you need to drill a hole in wood and brick, then make a small recess with a larger diameter drill (the hat will hide in it), and then screw the screw into the recess.

When installing, it is important to control the correct installation of the water level. It depends on how evenly the slats are installed. appearance buildings after installation of vinyl siding.

If necessary, small wooden wedges can be placed under the bar at the place of its fastening, thanks to which the vertical will be exactly observed.

Highly important point in this process to endure correct distance between adjacent frame parts. Given that the width of the TechnoNIKOL insulation is 600 mm, it is necessary to make sure that there is a gap of 580-590 mm between the planks. Then the mineral mat will become a surprise, and it is not necessary to fix it with anything additional.

I carry out cutting of mineral mats.
As I said, if you correctly calculated the distance and installed the first row of battens, trimming will have to be done either along the length or in the area of \u200b\u200bthe window and doorways(well, on the corners of the house).
As a result, you not only make your work easier, but also reduce the number of scraps, that is, the insulation will be spent more rationally. To cut basalt wool, you can use a sharp bench knife or a saw with fine teeth.

I install the plates of the first row of cladding.
Everything is simple here - you need to lean the slab against the place intended for it and press it between the guides of the crate with a light effort. Mats have elasticity, therefore, after mechanical action, they take their original shape and are firmly fixed between the crate.

I am fixing the second row of the crate. To avoid the formation of cold bridges and increase the strength of the warming cake, this time the wooden blocks are placed horizontally.

Mounting them in this case is easier. Drilling the wall is not required. It is enough to make a hole with a recess (countersink the bar), and then screw the screw through it directly into the timber of the first crate.

I install heat-insulating mats of the second layer.

You need to act according to the same system as with the first row. Thanks to two layers of insulation, the desired thickness of the insulation layer (10 cm) is achieved and heat loss through the seams is excluded.

I fix the waterproofing membrane on the crate. For this I use special film manufactured by TechnoNIKOL, which prevents the mineral mats from getting wet and prevents their gradual destruction from the wind blowing in the gap (more on that later).

The membrane is fixed horizontally and fixed on wooden bars insulation frame using a construction stapler and staples. You can also use carnations with wide hats.

In this case, it is very important to arrange the seams correctly.. To ensure the desired tightness of the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to overlap at a distance of about 10 cm when installing the next sheet of film and fix the joint with adhesive tape.

For these purposes, I use double-sided adhesive tape, which is located inside the seam. How to glue it is clear from the photo.

Installation of decorative cladding

As outer cladding I will perform vinyl siding fixed on a galvanized profile. The scheme of work for its installation is as follows:

I mount U-shaped aluminum perforated parts on a wooden crate of insulation to fix the profile.
Brackets are simply attached to wooden details using self-tapping screws directly through the waterproofing membrane. Then you need to bend the petals of the bracket at an angle of 90 degrees to the wall. Galvanized profiles will be screwed to them.
Attach the brackets so that maximum distance between them horizontally was equal to 30 cm, otherwise the vinyl siding after installation will sag under load and may burst from impact.

Installing support profiles for siding.
They are screwed to the brackets with self-tapping screws. If the walls initially had a significant vertical drop, then at this stage you can additionally align them. More precisely, install the profiles strictly vertically so that the siding itself is also attached evenly.
To do this, you just need to screw the screws into a suitable hole, following the correct installation using the water level.

In this case, the distance between the decorative material (siding) and the waterproofing film is very important.. The crate should be 3-5 cm away from the membrane in order to form ventilation gap through which the moisture accumulated inside will be removed to the outside. If you used metal brackets for fixing, then making a gap will not be difficult.

I fix the necessary accessories for the installation of siding.
It's about the starting profile, connecting parts, corners and so on. As in all other cases, you need to mount the parts on aluminum rails using small self-tapping screws.

Installing siding.
You need to start work from the bottom of the house, inserting the first lamella into the starting profile fixed there. The part itself is fixed on the crate with self-tapping screws. They should not be wrapped too tightly to compensate for the possible thermal expansion of the finish.

Summary

The instructions above describe the technology in detail. external insulation. If you are still interested in how to do it from the inside with your own hands, you can check out the video in this article, which outlines the necessary sequence of actions.

And I wanted to ask readers how inside the apartment in high-rise building do you insulate? What technologies do you use for this? What do you think is the best way to protect reinforced concrete enclosing walls from the inside? Post your answers in the comments to this article.

September 3, 2016

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