Blooming plants in the house are a great opportunity to create a favorable cozy atmosphere and fill the air with amazing aromas. Home lily in a pot is currently not surprising with its presence, since special varieties of this plant have been bred, which are adapted to indoor conditions. First of all, these are oriental and Asian hybrids, which give very few children and can grow without transplanting in one pot for several years. Growing homemade lilies in a pot is not as difficult as it might seem. There is an opportunity to regulate the flowering period and get beautiful large buds for any special occasion. To do this, you just need to choose the right planting time and provide the required conditions for growth.
A lily in a pot can reach a height of 1.5 meters, and can grow small compact bush... To regulate the height of the stem, you need to select varieties. Well, and accordingly, the lily pot must meet the required agrotechnical conditions. The higher your future flower, the greater the height and diameter of the lily pot. So, with a stem height of 1.5 meters, the container should have a wall height of 35 - 40 cm. The volume of the seat for the 1st bulb is 16 cm2. Thus, 3-4 bulbs can be planted in a pot with a diameter of 40 cm. Single plantings in separate pots are not advisable, since lilies with large space the land around the bulb begins to actively produce babies, and flowering does not occur until the entire space is filled. This can take years.

Getting ready to grow lily flowers in pots at home: photos of plants and the subtleties of preparation

Look closely at the various photos of lilies in pots, the amazing beauty of these flowering plants bewitches and enchants. If the decision to plant them is made, then we are preparing to grow lily flowers in pots. The subtleties of preparing for growing lilies at home in a pot include several secrets:

1. right choice planting material- the bulbs must be strong and weigh at least 40 grams;
2. decide on the varieties - preference is given to oriental, dwarf, Asian, royal and long-flowered species;
3. stratify the bulbs in the refrigerator for 15 - 20 days - the temperature should be about 5 degrees Celsius;
4. before planting, first soak the bulbs for 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate;
5. then for 12 hours in a solution of nutrient fertilizers and growth stimulant.

A lily flower in a pot can be grown without replanting the bulbs for 2 to 3 years. To do this, it is necessary to ensure optimal conditions for wintering plants. In no case should containers with planting material be taken out onto the balcony in winter time... Unprepared bulbs can freeze. How to store after flowering and what to do to get abundant budding for the next season, we will tell below. In the meantime, we offer a few more colorful photos of lilies in pots on the balcony and windowsill:

How to plant a lily in a pot?

In order for something to start growing and developing, it is necessary to provide conditions for root growth and nutrition. Planting a lily in a pot includes a choice suitable soil... It can be sod land mixed in equal proportions with humus or compost. When self-forming a soil mixture, do not forget about adding complex mineral fertilizers. As a rule, 50 grams is taken for each liter of soil. mixtures in equal proportions of nitrogen, potassium, magnesium and phosphorus. You can purchase ready soil for lilies in the store. But before use, it must be disinfected. To do this, it is enough to spill the filled pots with boiling water with the addition of fungicides and potassium permanganate.
You can plant a lily in a pot at any time of the year. To obtain crops for summer decoration of balconies, it is necessary to plant the bulbs no later than the second decade of March. In this case, flowering will be ensured in the second half of May. For later dates of budding, it is necessary to repeat planting with an interval of 2 weeks. To get flowers by December, you need to plant the lily in a pot at the end of September and provide additional lighting immediately after sprouting.
And now we will analyze in detail how to plant a lily in a pot at home:

• drainage is placed on the bottom of the tank in the form of sea and river pebbles or expanded clay, you can also use pieces of foam and broken brick, layer - up to 5 cm;
• then 10 cm of fertile soil is poured;
• the bulbs are laid out with their tops up, the bottoms are slightly pressed to the ground;
• 15 - 20 cm of fertile land is poured on top;
• watering is in progress warm water so that the soil is evenly moistened.

Before planting lilies, decide on the capacity and height of the sides of the pot. Taking into account the recommendations given above, calculate these parameters so that after planting there is about 7 cm space left to the upper edge of the pot.

The subtleties of growing home lilies in a pot and caring for plants

Get rich and long flowering is possible only if all agrotechnical requirements are met. Growing lilies in pots is fascinating process, in which there is nothing complicated. It is enough to provide a complete proper care for lilies in pots, carry out regular watering and feeding with a balanced composition of mineral and organic fertilizers.
Let's figure out how to care for a potted lily. So, the planting was carried out correctly and successfully, now you need to wait for the shoots to appear. For this period, a low temperature should be provided and watering should be carried out as the earthen coma dries up. This is about 1 time in 3 days.
In principle, a house lily in a pot does not require much maintenance. After the shoots appear, the first feeding is carried out with a solution of organic fertilizers. After 7 days, re-feeding is carried out using a phosphorus-potassium composition. It is advisable at the time of initial growth to spray the sprouts with solutions with the addition of a growth stimulator. This is done about 2 times a week. This technique stimulates the formation of flower buds and ensures the development of large, colorful buds.
After the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, the earth is filled up to the upper edge of the pot. Then, caring for a home lily in a pot is reduced to regular loosening of the soil to a depth of 5 cm to ensure the flow of fresh air to the root system. Watering is carried out daily. Top dressing with mineral and organic complexes for flowering plants at least 1 time per week. At the age of 1 month, a lily in a pot can be taken out into the open air. But this must be done with preliminary hardening. Carry out on the first day for 30 minutes, on the second - for 1 hour, on the third for 2 hours. And so the period of stay in the fresh air is gradually brought to 10 hours. Exposure to night temperatures below 10 degrees Celsius should be avoided. This inhibits the process of setting flower buds.
Until the buds bloom, caring for a home lily in a pot can be supplemented by daily spraying of the deciduous mass. This allows for faster growth and development. In the open air, there is one rule to follow. During spraying and until the moisture dries up, there should be no direct sunlight on the leaves. Otherwise it will cause sunburn... After blooming flowers, when spraying, you should avoid getting water on the petals. Moisture will shorten the flowering period.

If there are a lot of buds and they are heavy, then it is necessary to install supporting structures that will support the stem.
Take a look at photos of potted lilies that you can successfully grow in your home with the effort and advice given above.

How to grow and transplant oriental lilies in a pot?

Recently, specialized stores have been selling potted oriental lilies in an already blooming state. How to preserve this beauty and continue the vegetative development of plants at home. First of all, you should know that caring for an oriental lily in a pot during its flowering period includes the obligatory abundant watering and fertilizing with mineral fertilizers. Spray the foliage at least once a day. This will maximize the flowering period.
You also need to know how to transplant a lily in a pot after the end of the flowering period.

To do this, after all the buds have fallen off, wait until all the stems turn yellow and dry. In no case should you cut them off. At this time, it is necessary to reduce watering to 1 time per week. Each watering is combined with abundant fertilizing with mineral and organic fertilizers. Foliage spraying is completely stopped. It is important for us at this moment that all the nutrients accumulated in the foliage and stems are transferred to the bulbs and powerful flower buds are laid there for the next growing season.
After the aerial part is completely dry, watering stops completely and after 2 weeks there comes a time to dig up the lily bulbs. Leaving in the same land is not worth it, since it is already depleted and will not allow the bulbs to fully develop root system next year.

We take out the earthen lump from the pot and carefully disassemble it, taking out the bulbs. Children are best planted immediately in a separate container for growing planting bulbs. Rinse large onions under warm running water and cut the shoot at a height of up to 5 cm from the bulb. Then we put it in a container and fill it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. We take out and dry in the fresh air for 2 hours. In the meantime, prepare the moss or sawdust, slightly moisturizing them and transferring them to a plastic bag. Mixing with sawdust there, add the onions. We put all this in a refrigerator or basement. This is how the bulbs are stored until the next planting.
Now you know how to grow lilies in a pot at home and have the knowledge of how to repot the bulbs correctly. Check out some more photos of lilies in pots:

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Indoor lily: features of home care

Almost everyone knows a plant such as indoor lily, home care for which is usually not very difficult. There are many varieties of lilies that you can grow at home. And each plant is distinguished by its unique appearance of both leaves and flowers (Figure 1).

Figure 1. Each variety of lilies has a different kind of flowers, but they are all very graceful and beautiful.

In order for lilies to bloom as often as possible, you need to learn how to properly care for them. Usually they are propagated by bulbs, which causes some fear in some people, because the bulb can quickly rot if you allow excess moisture in the soil. But this fear is false.

Indoor lilies in pots can be both bulbous and ordinary rooted plants. There are much more bulbous varieties. And even despite this, the care for all varieties of domestic lilies is approximately the same. You just need to follow some very simple rules.

Choosing a container for lilies

Before planting a lily, it is important to choose the right pot for it.

First of all, you need to choose the right container for the flower. This is especially true of bulbous varieties. They can reach up to 1.5 m in height. And the higher it gets adult plant, the deeper the pot should be selected for it in advance. How often the lily blooms will depend on this.

If it is assumed that the height of the plant will be about 1.5 m, then a pot with a depth of about 40 cm is needed. So the roots will be quite spacious in it, the lily itself will be stably fixed in the ground, which is very important in the first time after transplanting.

You also need to correctly determine the width of the pot. So, if you plan to grow one plant in one container, it is recommended to use a fairly narrow pot (about 20 cm in diameter). Otherwise, the plant will constantly release babies, thereby trying to fill free place in the ground.

You can also make a very interesting composition from bulb lilies by planting 3-4 plants in one pot. At the same time, it is important to keep a distance of about 5-7 cm between them. So the land will not be free for the growth of children, and in the end such a "bouquet" will look quite beautiful. Indeed, during the flowering period, lilies release several buds at once.

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How to plant a plant

Before planting lily bulbs, it is useful to hold them in a solution of potassium permanganate.

You should also be just as serious about planting bulbs and replanting already mature lilies in new pots. These flowers love a mixture of light, nutritious soil with a little sand. It is quite possible to buy the substrate in the store ready-made.

If you plan to plant the bulbs, then you should first keep them in the refrigerator for 2 weeks at a temperature of about + 5 ° C, and then 2 hours in a solution of potassium permanganate to kill all pathogenic bacteria. This is a kind of prevention for the plant.

If an adult plant is transplanted, then first you need to cut off the dried flowers (during the period of active flowering, it is categorically not recommended to touch the lilies), separate the children if desired and examine the bulb for diseases. If everything is fine, you can transplant the flower into a new substrate. Experts advise to transplant adult lilies no more than once every three years.

To grow lilies in pots, you need to do good drainage a layer of about 3 cm. This will protect the soil from oversaturation with water, which can have a detrimental effect on the bulb. On top of the drainage, you need to pour the main soil with a layer of about 5 cm, and then plant the bulb. Then sprinkle everything with earth again, tamping it slightly at the same time, to the very edge of the pot. This method of planting applies to both young, not yet sprouted bulbs, and adult lilies, which already have stems.

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Watering, temperature and feeding

Lilies love Fresh air, therefore, it is recommended to ventilate the room with a flower.

Proper watering and temperature control are the main conditions for growing a healthy plant. Indoor lilies perfectly tolerate temperature fluctuations. But it is important not to allow the temperature in the room to change to below 16 ° C and above 30 ° C.

The home lily just loves fresh air. For this reason, it is useful to take out indoor lilies on a balcony or loggia in the warm season. And best of all - to the courtyard, if it is a private house. But if there are no such opportunities, it is recommended to open windows and vents more often. Just put the plant further away so that it does not catch a cold from the draft.

Lily responds well to bright, diffused light. But you cannot keep the plant in direct sun, as this can lead to leaf burns. This is especially true of the southern windows, where it is always very hot and a lot of sun. But even full shade will not do anything good for the growth and flowering of lilies.

In hot summer, lilies in pots are very fond of moisture. Therefore, they need to be watered often - at least once every 3 days. It is very important not to allow the earthen feed to dry out completely. This can cause the onion to deteriorate. In winter, the plant should be watered more moderately. It is best to test the potting soil before pouring in the next batch of water.

The successful cultivation of lilies at home includes timely feeding.

And the plant should be fertilized already in the first days after the germination of the bulb. It is recommended to start with preparations with a high content organic matter... After two weeks, feed the lily with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

As soon as the lily blooms, you will need to apply special liquid fertilizers for flowering every two weeks. indoor plants... In this case, it is also recommended to do foliar dressing by spraying the still unblown buds with a nutrient diluted in the required proportions from a spray bottle.

So, when growing a room lily, which is easy to take care of at home, if you follow the recommendations described above, it is very important to cut the first buds. This will further contribute to the formation of a strong plant, which will surely please with numerous beautiful flowers next year. But this only applies to young lilies. In all other cases, during the flowering period, you just need to provide the plant with peace so that it does not drop the buds, try not to transfer it to other places in the apartment or house.

Proper care of a home lily will allow you to get an original living decoration for living rooms or winter gardens.

Lily is not the last among home flowers. The plant, with bright greenery, beautiful voluminous flowers and a delicate aroma, cannot leave indifferent lovers of indoor plants. Despite the fact that the lily has a short flowering period, it is reproduced with pleasure at home. Since it perfectly decorates the interior and is a collectible for many flower growers.

Planting lily bulbs in the spring in a pot

Competent planting of bulbs guarantees full flowering

• According to experienced flower growers, it is better to choose early autumn - early September for planting.
• But you can carry out this manipulation in the spring.
• These periods make it possible for the plant to take root well and sprout.
• Start spring planting as early as possible - as soon as the first shoots appear. Young stems are very fragile and brittle, which can pose a problem for the further growth of the flower.
• Pre-purchased bulbs should be stored in cool place by constantly adding wet moss or sawdust, sand or earth

Before sowing bulbous material:

1. We carefully reject and remove infected, rotten specimens
2. We cleanse unnecessary scales
3. Cutting off withered roots
4. Shortening a too long crustal system
5. We send for half an hour to a solution of 0.2% fundozol or treat with an insecticide

• We plant in a pot with light soil and always with drainage
• Planting depth - 2-3 times higher than the planting material (from the top of the bulb to the ground)
• We perform the operation carefully so as not to damage the bulb and root system.
• After planting, mulch well with peat or humus

Video: Lilies: sprouting bulbs in spring in pots

How to water a lily in a pot?

Watering the pot lily

1. We water very carefully: by the neck of the planter or using the bottom watering method
2. If there is water in the pan, pour it out. Lilies do not tolerate waterlogging
3. Watering is carried out after the topsoil has completely dried out, very moderately.
4. When the flowering ends, we water it rarely and little (2-3 months). The ground must remain semi-dry
5. Let the water stand for a day before watering

Lily has faded in the pot: what to do next?

Lily care after flowering

Eucharis rarely releases its flowers. But with proper storage plants, during the rest period, you can increase the period and the number of times of flowering.

For this:

1. Send the lily to a dry, cool place
2. Make watering and feeding minimal - when the top layer of the earth is completely dry
3. If the ground has not changed for a long time, change the soil by adding ash to it

How to feed lilies after flowering?

Feeding eucharis is carried out not only in the spring-summer period, but also in the fall, when the plant no longer blooms. During sleep, the flower is stored useful substances for the future. From correct feeding the duration and frequency of flowering depends.

Important: In the first month and a half of the flower's rest, feeding is not carried out. Only after the first offspring appear do we give food.

• Feed phosphoric potash fertilizers: potassium magnesium or superphosphate
• To do this, dissolve 1.5 tbsp. l. potassium magnesium or 2 tbsp. superphosphate in a bucket of water

Video: Eucharis. What does eucharis die from? How to care for an Amazon lily to bloom?

Why is the house lily not blooming?

There may be several reasons for this problem:

1. Rest time not kept... If the flower was watered abundantly within 1.5 months after flowering, it did not have a dormant stage. He did not have time to rest and gain strength.
2. Improper care, consisting in temperature changes, leads to decay of the bulbous material. This prevents the eucharis from blooming.
3. Poor stocking density. It will take 3-4 years for a young plant to bloom to grow babies. To speed up flowering will help joint landing several bulbs in one planter. How less space in a pot, the faster the lily will bloom.
4. Poor lighting, insufficient watering and feeding- after the appearance of the first shoots.

Video: Why Eucharis does not bloom and how to make a flower bloom?

Home lily disease

1. Gray rot- the causative agent is lat fungi. Botridis. The development of increased moisture and non-observance of the temperature regime of the airspace, waterlogged soil. The first signs are expressed in the loss of leaf elasticity. After acquiring softness, the greens take on a brown color along the edge. Further, the painful areas are covered with gray mold, and they die. If you find a problem, hurry up to remove the malicious places. Next, treat with Topsin-M, Fundazol, copper sulfate.
2. Stagonosporosis- the second fungal disease. Red elongated spots appear on all parts of the plant. Severe infection leads to the death of the flower. The reason for the development of the disease are: sharp temperature jumps and excessive moisture. Pledge healthy flower are healthy seeds. Process the bulbous material, before planting it in the ground, with fungicide components: Oxykh, Maxim, Abiga-Peak, for about half an hour. Then dry for 2 days.

• Mushroom mosquito (sciarid)- spawns in very damp ground. Its female produces offspring in the roots, which, as it grows, eats the base of the roots. The flower begins to grow poorly, wither, does not form flowers. Watering will help to destroy pests:

1. Aktara (0.8 g / l of water)

• Amaryllis bugs- start under the bulbous scales. They twist the green crown, and subsequently bring the death of the plant. We fight him by spraying with an insecticide:

1. Aktara
2. Akarin
3. Vertimek

• Spider mite envelops eucharis in excessively dry air. With minimal damage - wash the greens with soap. Severe infection - requires the help of acaricides:

1. Sunmight
2. Akarin
3. Kleschevit
4. Fitoverm

Adequate attention will help prevent infection.

Home lily turn yellow leaves

Problems of the Amaryllis family

Poor care is reflected in the healthy appearance of the plant. Natural yellowing and death of the green crown should not cause alarm. But the numerous yellow and dried leaves say:

1. About illiterate watering
2. About insufficiently high air temperature (less than +10)
3. About bright sunlight

We take out the bulbous material from the substrate and do a thorough inspection. Having discovered softness and color change, it is necessary:

• Cut out rotten places
• Sprinkle with charcoal
• Dry thoroughly
• Plant in fresh soil

How to properly transplant a home lily?

New planter for lilies

Transplanting is allowed no more than once every three years, but we change the upper soil surface annually. The time of the process is the rest of the flower

Getting started:

1. You will need a high planter so that the width allows you to leave space between the wall and the bulb - 3-4 cm
2. We fill the bottom with any drainage
3. You will need a special soil of the bulbous genus
4. If there are 10 or less children, we do not tear them off from the main bulb. We plant in a bunch, without dividing the soil lump
5. Priming depth - 4-5 cm

Video: How to transplant eucharis?

• With proper care, Eucharis is not visited by pests and diseases.
• The plant develops well and pleases its owner with a beautiful flowering and pleasant aroma.

Video: Indoor lily. Planting and leaving

The purchase of planting material is a very important matter - the success of growing lilies depends on timeliness. Before buying bulbs, or ordering through an online store, you need to find out which group of hybrids the selected flower belongs to, perhaps it is even a species lily, there is special care for them.

If you are offered lily bulbs of unknown origin, it is better to refuse to buy - you can simply be mistaken with the choice of location, planting depth and further agricultural technology, but even worse if the lily is not suitable for your region in terms of frost resistance.

For example, varieties of LA hybrids or Oriental lilies (Orientals) require shelter if winters are harsh, and American hybrids are generally very thermophilic and can only be grown in southern regions or containers (winter in the basement).

For residents middle lane In Russia, the Urals and Siberia, it is important to know the flowering time when buying lilies, as in Eastern hybrids the flowering period is greatly extended, some varieties bloom earlier, others later, but late-flowering lilies may not have time to ripen by winter (to store nutrients), they will be exhausted by spring and perish.

If you have the opportunity to examine and touch the bulbs, choose those that are dense, hard, without spots of rotten scales, especially mold, always with living roots at least 5 cm long, and the bulbs of hybrids of snow-white lilies are viable only if they have good long roots ... You should be wary if the bulbs are very dry - a good gardener will not allow this, soaking in water or wrapping in a damp cloth may not help, do not take risks.

Problems with buying lilies arise for flower growers in the event that you buy imported bulbs from Holland out of season. The fact is that in the fall, imported bulbs go on sale only from last year's unsold stocks. In October-November, the Dutch only begin to harvest the bulbs for sale: they dig up, wash, dry, put them in cold storage facilities, and they come to Russia only from the middle of winter.

Our domestic gardeners, on the contrary, only dig up planting material in the fall. Therefore, in the fall, you need to buy bulbs from friends in the garden, through clubs and forums of lily lovers, and at the end of winter and spring - lilies from Europe. However, it is very important to buy dormant bulbs. Sometimes the desire to acquire beautiful variety so great that gardeners, without hesitation, buy bulbs with sprouts, while others are ready to sell lilies immediately after flowering! It is a very common occurrence when on the market you are offered a dug out lily, with a flower that has not yet wilted, to prove the authenticity of the variety. You are offered to cut off the peduncle, and plant the bulb immediately.

If you are an experienced florist, then most likely you understand how risky it is to buy lilies with sprouts, and even more so, dug out during flowering. The recommendation to break off the sprouts and simply plant them in the ground is especially frightening. It is a huge stress for a plant to survive after a broken growth, to rebuild its biological rhythms from vegetation to suspended animation. Lilies that are not strong after flowering recover and take root for a very long time when they are dug up, very often they die! Survivors bloom poorly, slowly grow bulbs.

Planting lilies

We have already written about this stage of growing - read:.

Let us repeat more briefly:

If you bought the bulbs at the end of winter or very early in the spring, before planting in the open ground, you need to store them in the refrigerator, in the vegetable compartment or where the temperature is between 0 and + 4 ° C, no higher, the longer the storage is supposed to be, the closer the temperature should approach zero - optimally 0 + 1 ° С. The bulbs should be placed in moist sphagnum moss and a plastic bag with holes.

Important: ethylene gas is emitted by almost all fruits and vegetables, and it has a detrimental effect on lily bulbs, so it is necessary to isolate them from fruits and vegetables. Moreover, it is the fruit, not the lily, that needs to be sealed tightly into the bag.

You can keep the lily bulbs in the refrigerator until the sprout reaches 5-6 cm.If the sprout has formed ahead of time, and it is too early to plant it in the open ground, do not wait until the bulbs are depleted in the absence of ultraviolet radiation on chlorous sprouts - plant them in containers and put them on a glassed-in balcony, in a plastic greenhouse, until frost has passed. Then simply transfer (keeping all the contents of the pot) into the prepared holes in the flower beds.

If you missed the moment when sprouts began to appear on the stored bulbs, and they grew too large, then when planting, place the bulb in the hole at an angle.

If you bought lily bulbs in the fall, plant them immediately, or at most they can wait 3-4 days wrapped in moist moss. If you are planting your own lilies, then there are two important factors to consider:

• It is possible to divide and transplant lilies only 1.5 months after the end of flowering, this time is needed for the bulbs to gain weight, store nutrients, they will grow up, they look strong and elastic.
• It is better to divide and plant lilies when the mother bush reaches four and five years of age. By this time, it will have grown enough so that the daughter bulbs can easily separate by themselves.

Tubular and other large-sized lilies can be planted less often - once every 6-7 years. Earlier transplantation of lilies may be associated with the defeat of the flower garden with gray rot, the attack of mice that gnaw the entire flower bed, or when the thrips caused serious harm (gnawed on the bulbs), infected with a virus.

Before planting, the bulbs must be soaked in the fungicide-dressing agent Maxim. If a Lily (lily) red beetle was seen on your site, it is better to additionally process the bulbs in the Prestige or Prestigerator preparation - it is designed to process potatoes from colorado potato beetle, but do an excellent job with the lily beetle. Treatment is especially helpful when planting lilies in spring, since the maximum effect of the drug is observed in the first month (the bulbs will sleep in the fall), but the fully active substance of these insecticides decomposes for more than a year.

We plant lily bulbs in prepared soil to a depth three times the size of the bulbs (excluding Candidium hybrids and unripe children - lightly sprinkle them with earth).

After planting, make a small side around the hole, as trunk circle so that water after irrigation does not spread into the aisles. Now they need to be watered, especially if the soil is dry.

How to care for lilies

Lilies, like all plants, for growth and flowering need light, warmth, regular moisture, protection from diseases and pests, feeding, mulching, a garter to supports for tall varieties.

We take into account the need for sunlight when choosing a location.

Many species of lilies available for sale: Lilium leichtlinii, Lilium speciosum, Tiger lily (Lilium tigrinum), and Oriental hybrids (Oriental) and Tiger hybrids prefer very light partial shade or bright places where there is sun at least 4-6 hours in the morning or evening.

Asiatic lilies and LA hybrids prefer sunny areas, but grow normally in light partial shade.

LO hybrids, Tubular lilies, OT hybrids prefer full sun. But even they sometimes need shading in the summer on especially hot days. You can organize it by pulling mosquito net or by installing a beach umbrella next to the landings.

Lilies more than 50 cm in height must be tied to a support so that they are not broken by the wind.

Mulching

After planting lilies, the soil must be mulched - with straw, peat, coniferous or leaf litter, coniferous sawdust. Of all types of mulch, the best is forest floor. If you have enough acidic soils, use leaf litter (from under birches, aspens, lindens), if it is close to neutral - you can use coniferous, from under the pines. But the needles strongly acidify the soil and are not suitable for mulching Tubular hybrids, Lily regale and others who need a slightly alkaline soil.

By the way, OT-hybrids that form supra-luminal roots are especially in need of mulching. As soon as they begin to appear above the surface, add earth.

Mulching is necessary so that the soil does not dry out quickly, the surface roots do not overheat in the heat and do not freeze in winter. In addition, the mulch gradually decomposes and creates a new humus layer. Mulching also allows you not to loosen the aisles - the soil does not compact with mulch, it remains porous.

If you have the opportunity to get horse bedding - sawdust mixed with horse manure, then you can use such mulch only after six months - so that the composition has time to overheat and decompose.

If you are growing lilies surrounded by soil-backing or undersized plants, mulching is not necessary. The variegated bulbous ryegrass looks very good next to lilies - its variegated leaves are an excellent framing of lilies and protection of the soil. By the way, tall lilies look great and grow surrounded by lower daylilies.

How to water lilies

Lilies prefer a moderately moist soil at all times. So they grow in nature - in the undergrowth, where a large layer of fallen leaves protects the soil from drying out, but does not create excessive moisture - the soil is very porous. Lilies do not tolerate excess moisture - for them stagnation of water in the roots is destructive.

Therefore, watering is carried out as needed - in the absence of rain, about once a week, while water must be poured at the root in the aisles. The best time for watering: in the morning or before 14-15 o'clock in the afternoon - the earth should have time to dry out from above by night.

Experienced gardeners advise to be especially careful with watering in the spring, when recurrent frosts or sudden cold snaps are possible at night. In such cases, many people use watering in conjunction with growth regulators and anti-stress drugs - Epin, Zircon, Previscour Energy. This is especially necessary during the budding period.

The greatest need for soil moisture arises in June, when the temperatures are leveled during the day and night, it is very hot during the day, as well as after flowering, when lily bulbs begin to form and accumulate nutrients before a period of rest.

However, waterlogging of the soil for lilies is detrimental, especially when the plantings are dense, if the lilies are planted in a flower garden next to plants that need to be watered and fed frequently (for example, with roses), diseases develop from constant moisture. Most often it is gray rot and botrytis - a fungal disease typical of bulbous (the lower leaves are covered with small spots, turn brown, dry out, flowering is weak, the disease goes from bottom to top).

The frequency of watering also depends on the type of soil - on light sandy loam soils it is necessary to water more often, on loams (even taking into account their improvement, the introduction of sand and peat) - less often.

After flowering, you must completely stop watering the lilies. An exception is the abnormally hot weather in the fall, when the ground dries up to dust, you can water it 1-2 times after flowering, until the foliage has finally turned yellow.

Feeding lilies

The first thing to remember is that lilies do not tolerate any organic matter! It is possible to add humus to poor soil to improve its composition before planting (laying a flower garden), but it must be well-rotted compost - that is, if you bought a machine of fresh manure, you can use it for flowers no earlier than four years later.

By the way, lilies are not favored and green manure- freshly cut foliage and weeds, which with love and gratitude accept vegetables - tomatoes, cucumbers as a top dressing.

Lilies from all organic matter allow for well-rotted leaf litter.

In total, it is enough to feed these flowers three times per season:

• in the spring, you can use calcium nitrate, twice with an interval of 2 weeks (6 g per 1 liter of water)
• during the budding and flowering period - with a complete mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertika Lux, Fertika Universal, or feed with potassium magnesium (1.5 tablespoons per 10 l), feeding every 2 weeks
• after flowering - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers once

In the fall, you cannot transplant and feed plants at the same time.

Combine all root dressing with watering, do not apply fertilizer on dry ground, only with plenty of water.

In addition to root dressing, lilies sometimes need leaf dressing, if chlorosis appears on young leaves, perhaps there is not enough iron, then you need to spray it with iron chelate (just not on a sunny day). Iron deficiency manifests itself on soils with an alkaline and neutral reaction, therefore, lilies suffer primarily, which are grown on such OT hybrids, Tubular lilies, Candidum hybrids. Iron is well absorbed at pH 6 and below.

But in addition to iron, boron and zinc may be lacking on neutral and alkaline soils, so these minerals can also be used for foliar dressing, boron is especially useful, as for vegetables, it is diluted at the rate of 5 g per 5 l of water, for spraying during budding. To compensate for the lack of zinc, add 2.5 g of zinc sulfate per 5 liters of water to the solution.

If your soils are slightly acidic, then chlorosis can cause not an iron deficiency, but a deficiency of molybdenum, use a complex fertilizer that contains this element.

Cut lilies

Sometimes, when gardeners cannot be in the garden often, they tend to cut flowering lilies to take home this beauty in a bouquet. But you need to cut the lilies correctly:

1. Do not cut the flower stalk too low, leave as much of it in the flower bed as possible, otherwise the bulbs will not ripen normally.
2. Powder the place of the cut near the stem remaining in the flower bed with wood ash, then drop a drop of medical glue so that the wound does not rot.

Lilies after flowering

When the lilies fade, remove the withering flowers to prevent the formation of seed pods, the stem itself does not need to be cut!

In autumn, when all the leaves turn yellow, you need to cut off the stems at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground and leave them that way until spring. In the spring they just need to be pulled out of the ground (they practically fall out on their own).

Shelter for the winter

After autumn transplant lilies or after the final pruning, the beds need to be insulated if winters in your area are harsh.

Usually the shelter is multi-layered: scoop up leaf litter, for example, from under apple and pear trees, cover with spruce branches or peat. Can be stacked on top plastic wrap and press with stones.

Eastern hybrids (Oriental) especially need shelter for the winter; in the northwestern regions of Russia, they should be covered not with foliage, but with a layer of peat of at least 10 cm, then spruce branches.

In the spring, you need to remove the film and spruce branches, and leave the peat or mulch, but it’s nice to water it with special preparations to increase fertility, for example, Baikal-EM1.

It is important to remove the shelters in a timely manner, before the lilies start to grow, so as not to damage the sprouts or so that the young growth does not dry out.

These flowers tolerate well any soil and climatic conditions and do not require special care in the process of cultivation. That is why the cultivation of lilies is carried out in the open field, pots and containers.

Features of growing and caring for lilies at home with photos and videos will be described in detail in this article.

Lily is one of the most popular garden ornamental plants, attracting attention not only by its bright lush color and amazing aroma, but also by its unpretentiousness to climatic soil conditions.

However, it will be useful to know some of the features of growing this crop in the open field. First of all, you need to start by choosing a site and preparing it.

Features of site preparation

Lilies grow and bloom best in sunny areas, sheltered from the wind. Before starting cultivation, prepare the soil, as these flowers have been growing in one place for several years (Figure 1).

Note: The soil must be dug up, removing the remains of other plants, as well as their roots. Moreover, for autumn planting the soil is prepared in the summer, and for the spring - in the fall.

To increase soil fertility, together with digging, well-rotted manure (1 bucket per 1 square meter), superphosphate (30-50 g) and wood ash (0.5 liters) are introduced. If you want to plant plants on a ready-made flower bed, pay attention that the landings are not adjacent to too tall plants that will shade the flowers. For the same reason, it is not recommended to plant them under trees or bushes.

Figure 1. The procedure for growing in the open field

Try to avoid dry areas of the soil, give preference to well-drained soil. Pay attention to the level of acidity: an alkaline or slightly acidic reaction is considered optimal. If the soil is too acidic, it is necessary to add wood ash or liming.

Rules

Despite the fact that growing these flowers in the country is considered easy, and even novice gardeners will be able to do it, a number of conditions must be met for abundant flowering.

When growing lilies outdoors, follow these rules.:

1. Choose a well-lit, slightly raised area with good drainage.
2. Fill the soil with organic and mineral fertilizers before planting.
3. Try to bring the soil acidity level to the optimum level by liming or adding wood ash.
4. Carefully inspect the planting material in order to detect diseases, disinfect the bulbs before planting.
5. Spend spring planting for late flowering varieties. Autumn planting begins in late summer and lasts until mid-autumn.

The ways

Lilies are cultivated as in flower pots and containers that can be exposed in the open air, and in the open field in a flower bed and in a garden, and in a greenhouse in a greenhouse.

At the same time, all kinds of breeding methods are used: bulbs, seeds, scales, children. Each of the methods has its own advantages and difficulties. Let's take a look at some of the outdoor cultivation methods.

Growing lilies from seeds at home

Breeding with seeds is a rather lengthy process, but it makes it possible to immediately obtain a large number of young, viable, resistant to different diseases plants. In this way, new varieties are also bred.

For successful cultivation lilies from seeds at home, you need to know some features(picture 2):

• Different varieties have different temperature conditions germination of seeds, but mostly most of them emerge at a temperature of 20-25 degrees.
• Seeds do not need preliminary treatment with cold, their germination does not depend on lighting, but depends on the timing of collection.
• It is recommended to plant seeds no later than the second year after harvest.
• To increase the germination rate of seeds, they are pre-soaked for 15 hours, and to reduce the risk of infection with various microorganisms and bacteria, they are treated with bleach or 0.04% zinc sulfate solution.
• To obtain seedlings, seeds are sown from February to March.
• Crops are made in a substrate consisting of garden soil with the addition of peat, humus and sand.
• For crops, containers with a depth of 10 cm are used, while sowing seeds to a depth of no more than 0.5 cm.
• The sown material is sprinkled with earth, moistened with a spray bottle, covered with a film or glass cover.
• After the emergence of shoots, the shelter is gradually removed, starting from a few hours a day and until it is fully disclosed.
• The seedlings are provided with diffused sunlight, while reducing the temperature environment up to + 12 + 20 degrees.
• Regular watering of seedlings is carried out, preventing the soil from drying out.

Figure 2. Growing lilies from seeds

With the appearance of the first leaves, young plants are transplanted into separate pots, observing the rules of care, which consist in gentle loosening, watering and maintaining the level of lighting.

In late spring - early summer, seedlings are transferred to open ground, having previously selected and prepared a site with light and fertile soil. When planting young plants, keep an interval of 30-40 cm between them. Subsequent care involves loosening the soil, watering and timely feeding.

From the video you will learn how to properly plant and grow these flowers at home.

How to grow lilies from bulbs

Growing lilies from bulbs is one of the most popular ways, because it does not require much cost or effort. To do this, you need to first stock up on the bulbs of the desired varieties. It is best to plant the bulbs in early fall when the plant is already dormant (Figure 3).

Note: When examining the bulbs, it is recommended to remove all dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm, then decontaminate the planting material immediately before planting, using a weak solution of 0.2% foundationol.

If you are wondering how to grow these flowers from bulbs, you will be pleasantly surprised that the process is quite simple. To plant the bulbs, dig holes with a diameter of no more than 40 cm and a depth of 25 cm. The bottom of the holes is covered with gravel to ensure a good outflow of water. The drainage layer is covered with fertile soil on which the bulbs are laid.

Figure 3. Features of growing lilies from bulbs

The planting material is covered with earth in such a way as to hide the tops, the soil is compacted. Subsequent care consists of loosening, watering, feeding, pest control.

The author of the video will tell you even more useful information about the methods of breeding lilies.

How to grow lilies in a pot at home

Among the huge number of varieties, those are bred that are adapted for growing in indoor conditions (Figure 4). These include Asian and Oriental hybrids, which form a small number of children, and therefore can grow in one pot for several years.

By growing indoor varieties, you have the ability to regulate the flowering period. To do this, it is enough to correctly determine the landing time and provide the necessary conditions.

Pot selection

Interested in the question of how to grow lilies at home in a pot, you should know that these plants have some peculiarities.

Figure 4. Features of growing flowers in pots at home

One of necessary conditions for the full growth of indoor varieties, the correct choice of a flower pot is. To do this, you should know well the features of the cultivated variety, because the higher the flower is, the higher the pot should be. For example, with a stem height of one and a half meters, the planting container should be about 40 cm high.

Note: You should know that one onion occupies 16 cm2. seat.

This fact should also be taken into account when planting a crop in a flower pot, since an excess of free space provokes the production of children by the plant until the entire container is filled. For this reason, it is not recommended to carry out single plantings, but to plant several bulbs.

Caring for a lily in a pot

After planting the bulbs in a pot and before germination, it is necessary to provide the plant with a low temperature and water as the soil dries. With the emergence of seedlings, the first fertilizing of the soil with liquid is carried out organic fertilizer... A week later, a second is carried out, but now using mineral fertilizer saturated with potassium and phosphorus.

Figure 5. Planting and caring for indoor varieties in a pot

It is recommended to spray the sprouts with a growth stimulant twice a week to enable the development of large, bright flowers. When the sprouts reach a height of 10 cm, it is necessary to add soil to the edge of the container. Then they carry out regular loosening of the soil, water it daily, feed it every week flowering plants... Until the culture has blossomed, its leaves can be sprayed to fastest growing and development, making sure that wet leaves are not exposed to direct sunlight (Figure 5).

Flowering plants need to be sprayed very carefully, trying to avoid moisture from entering the petals, as this leads to a reduction in the flowering period itself. Starting from the age of one month, the plant begins to harden, gradually accustoming it to being outdoors. However, at night, the culture can be outdoors without losses if the air temperature does not drop below +10. At abundant flowering additional supports are installed in the pot to support the stem and peduncles.

Pineapple lily: cultivation and photos

The pineapple lily variety is grown mainly in the open field, since in indoor conditions the plant blooms only at a good ambient temperature and sufficient lighting, which can be difficult to organize. Therefore, it is left in flower pots only for wintering, and in the spring it is transplanted into open ground (Figure 6).

Note: As a rule, eukomis is grown from bulbs - babies, which are separated from the mother's bulb. The bulbs are planted in separate containers using a light fertile soil with sufficient drainage from early March to late April. In this case, they should be placed so that the top remains level with the ground.

While waiting for the sprouts, sparing watering is carried out as needed, and after the appearance of peduncles, irrigation is made more frequent and more abundant. Before transplanting eukomis into open ground, it is recommended to harden by taking pots with young plants to the open air.

Figure 6. External features pineapple lily

It is possible to transfer a plant from a pot to a flower bed only when the soil warms up enough, that is, approximately in mid-May. In the southern regions of our country, eukomis bulbs can be immediately planted in open ground without pre-germination... It is important to know that the pineapple lily is a prominent representative of light and heat-loving plants. Therefore, for planting, set aside an area that is well lit by the sun. This variety is completely frost-resistant, so its bulbs must be dug up every year and stored.

The planted eukomis must be watered sparingly until the first leaves appear. Then watering is gradually increased, given that the plant needs a lot of moisture during the flowering period. After the plants have faded, the introduction of moisture begins to decrease, and after the leaves turn yellow, they stop altogether. It is also necessary to regularly feed with complex fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen, since this element causes plant diseases. Unlike other varieties, eukomis under conditions indoor growing requires an annual transplant into a new container with a complete replacement of the substrate. Bulbs from open ground dug up, disinfected and sent to storage in a dry, cool room.