How to remove the old floor. How to dismantle a wooden floor: how to work How to remove a floorboard

Wood flooring is popular due to its environmental friendliness and durability. However, after some time, you still have to replace the old floor with a new one. How to remove the old floor will be discussed further.

Options

Depending on the condition of the old floor and plans for the installation of a new coating, dismantling can be carried out in different ways:

If the goal is not pursued reuse old material, then it makes no sense to save boards that have served their time. This decision is made due to the unsuitability of the coating to be removed due to the use of glue or nails. big size for fixing boards. In this case, the work is carried out quickly. With the help of a nail puller or other tools, the old floor is removed without undue care, the elements of which are recycled.
The second option involves the reuse of the material. In this case, a partial replacement of the floor covering can be carried out, or the boards will be laid in another room. In this situation, you need to work carefully and carefully.

Dismantling process

At the initial stage of repair, the old coating must be dismantled. When removing the floor covering with the intention of re-using it, you need to take out all the furniture from the room, remove all the structures that are arranged on the floor and wipe the entire area with a damp cloth. work surface to reduce the amount of dust raised during dismantling.

Before you remove the old wooden floors, you first need to number all the boards with a pencil. This is necessary so that when re-laying all the elements are placed in the same order, perfectly aligned with each other.
Then the plinth is dismantled along the entire contour of the room.
When pulling nails out of floorboards, a nail puller can damage the coating material in a certain place. To avoid this, during work, plywood fragments or pieces of boards should be placed under the tool. When fixing the flooring material with large nails, the lining can be replaced with large bars.
In order not to harm the skirting board, its removal should begin from the end - near the fixation point.
The first fixing point is usually located at a distance of approximately 15 cm from the corner of the wall.
If the skirting board is nailed to the floor, at the fixing point it should be lifted up to a distance of 3 cm, after which you should move to another attachment point.
When it is not possible to hook the hat and pull out the nail directly, you need to chop off a little wood in the attachment area with a chisel. After that, it is necessary to slip a bar of the required thickness under the nail puller and remove the nail with a tool.
If the baseboard was attached with screws, the nail puller is replaced with a screwdriver or screwdriver.
If the plinth is fixed not to the floor, but to the wall, then the principle of dismantling technology does not change - the place of support does not play a fundamental role.
At the beginning of the dismantling of the floor, a board is selected, which is located on greatest distance from front door. In an alternative embodiment, the dismantling begins with an end board having a relatively small width.
The edge of the board, which is joined to the wall, is hooked with a nail puller and rises up by 3 cm.
With a hammer, the board is tapped to its original place, while the nail remains sticking out. A plywood fragment or a board of small thickness lies next to the nail.
The nail puller, leaning on the substrate, winds up by the head, after which the nail is pulled out.
The operation of removing the nail is repeated in other attachment points.
The board, freed from nails, should be disconnected from the adjacent one and removed.

If the first board is firmly embedded in the wall, and there is no way to adapt the nail puller, a groove must be made in one of the surfaces through which work can continue. The groove should be in such a place and be of such a size that in the future it can easily hide under the baseboard. This problem can be solved in another way. At the place of fixation under the cap, the wood is cut and the nail is pulled out with a nail puller. To dismantle subsequent boards, the same method is used.

Features of removing boards

You need to know that the boards are attached to the base not only with nails and screws, but also on the tenon-groove principle. These elements of the boards are quite vulnerable when performing dismantling work, therefore, when removing the floor, its elements must be raised to a small height. No matter how carefully the floor is dismantled, it is quite difficult to avoid damage to the spikes and grooves. If this happens, then when re-laying these weak spots can be fastened with PVA glue or small nails - this will avoid squeaking of the floorboards.

Note! The pits that appeared on the boards from hewing with a chisel can be sealed with acrylic sealant in the future.

Video

This is how dismantling is done parquet board:

From the author: hello to our readers! Today we will talk about how to dismantle a wooden floor with your own hands, spending quite a bit of time and effort on it. Well, if you manage to involve at least one assistant in the process, then the work will go faster.

Wood flooring is rightfully considered the safest, most environmentally friendly and durable. At correct installation and gentle care they serve more than 50 years. But time does its job, and the moment comes when there is nothing left but to ruthlessly remove the old floor.

Sometimes a partial replacement of the boards is required, but most often the flooring needs to be completely removed. In some cases, after removing the boards from the floor under them, you can find a lot of shortcomings left by the first builders of the entire building.

To the unsuitability of the floor lead:

high humidity in the room;
the activity of insect pests, the impact of the fungus;
significant mechanical damage;
low quality material;
wear due to long service life.

What should be considered before starting work? All points of the upcoming event need to be well thought out, you can even write it down on paper, as this will allow you to estimate the approximate volume, cost and time spent on completing all its stages.

The result of calculations can be influenced by a variety of factors (the area of the room, the type of wood flooring, the presence concrete base below it, the need to use special equipment), so they are individual for each case.

We plan the workflow

It is important to remember that removing the old floor covering- the event is noisy, this moment should be taken into account and the time of the work should be planned so as to cause a minimum of disturbance to family members and neighbors.

You need to prepare a place in advance for collecting the future construction debris, containers for it and transport for transportation. To protect yourself from a large amount of dust, which is inevitable when carrying out this kind of work, we recommend dressing in work clothes, a respirator, construction gloves and a hat.

The next step will be the preparation of the tools necessary for removing the boards in the apartment and house:

sledgehammer or assembly hammer;
nail puller;
electric jigsaw or saw for cutting long boards;
screwdrivers, pliers and pliers;
chisels;
hatchet or crowbar.

This minimum set tools, which may vary depending on the type of wood flooring.

Important! Immediately before removing it, you can hang the doorway with a large piece of damp cloth, and put mats moistened with water near the threshold. This technique will help prevent the spread of dust to other rooms.

Stages of work

So everything preparations met, it's time to take action. The procedure for the removal of old floorboards in the apartment and house is as follows:

Removing skirting boards. It is recommended to carry it out with a nail puller, starting from the corner of the room. If old plinth covered with several layers of paint, you must first determine the place where it is easily lifted with a flat screwdriver, and then apply a nail puller. If its course is not enough to extract long nails, they put it under it wooden block. It is easier when screws were used to fasten the baseboard, since they are quite easy to unscrew with a screwdriver.
The next step is to remove the entire surface of the floor. Usually it is laid from a board facing the wall with a spike, so the dismantling begins in the opposite direction. If the floorboards are planned to be reused in the same room, they are pre-numbered in order to subsequently be laid in right order. When the flooring is fixed with screws, the work will be to unscrew the fasteners and sequentially remove each board. In the event that the floorboards are fixed with nails, the following sequence of actions is observed:
- the side of the floor where the last floorboard is fixed is determined;
- a nail puller is hammered under the board with a hammer;
- the floorboard rises to a distance of 1-3 centimeters from the log;
- then the board must again be pressed firmly against the base of the floor, while the nail heads should protrude above the surface. If necessary, the floorboard is raised and lowered several times;
- a block is placed under the nail puller, after which the nails are carefully removed. Thus, the floorboards will remain intact, they can be used for laying a new floor or for other construction work;
- after that, with the help of a chisel, the gap between the boards is increased. If the previous steps are performed correctly, the spike, freed from the nails of the floorboard, will easily come out of the groove with an arc that is still fixed;
- if a board spike or groove is accidentally damaged, this trouble can be eliminated using glue or small nails. The floorboard will look a little worse, but its functionality will be restored;
- a nail puller is also used to remove the lag.

Important! Even if you don't plan to reuse the removed boards, the work must be done carefully so as not to damage the subfloor itself and to avoid difficulties when installing a new flooring. If it is necessary to dispose of the floorboards, it is better to cut them into small pieces, which will be conveniently folded into containers, taken out of the room and transported. You should not roughly break the boards, since sharp fragments can severely injure, and besides, it is much more difficult to free the room from them.

If you have carefully read this material, now you clearly understand the procedure for dismantling and know the features of this process.

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Not always the replacement of flooring is justified financially and technically. Firstly, laying is usually carried out by capital fixation, and it will be problematic to remove the floorboards without breaking them. Secondly, wood right choice and processing, able to "lie" for a long time. Repairing a wooden floor without dismantling in this case will be the only way out of the situation.

Causes of cracking and places where defects appear

The main problem of a wooden floor is the time costs that affect the integrity of the wood. Floors laid out in compliance with the technology, but not dried to the required state, will crack over time. Such a defect can be corrected without dismantling.

The second problem may be the delamination of wood in places where the annual rings are drawn. In this case, surface grinding helps, followed by treatment with penetrating compounds.

Another disadvantage is the divergence of the floorboards. It is also associated with wood shrinkage. There is a problem at the junction of the boards. And in this regard, it will be impossible to repair a wooden floor without dismantling.

As a rule, the latter problem is identified due to improper installation of a wooden floor. Many resort to repairs, opening the flooring and changing the array of boards, or fitting old elements tighter.

Options for repairing a wooden floor without dismantling - sanding boards

The easiest option for correcting minor defects in the form of cracks that appear after wood shrinkage is surface grinding. To do this, you need an electric machine. Manually, it will be very difficult to do the manipulations.

The repair process is as follows:

first, you need to put a large sandpaper on the machine and process the surface of the boards with it;
then all the dust is removed with a vacuum cleaner, and the process is repeated, only with a “sandpaper” of a fine fraction.

In this way, minor flaws can be corrected without dismantling the flooring. The shavings produced by sanding will clog the cracks, and all you have to do is clean the floor surface, varnish it or paint it.

Repair of cracks with putty on wood

If the cracks in the floorboards are large, it is possible to repair the flooring with putty without dismantling the boards. In specialized stores, you can find a wide variety of formulations.

Before use, the floor surface is prepared for repair. Dirt, dust is removed, polishing is carried out. It would be better to "walk" grinder With sandpaper small fraction.

After cleaning, the surface is vacuumed. Problem areas cleaned with a chisel. Need to expand a bit big gaps so that the putty “holds” better in them. The work is laborious, but still the process is more gentle than dismantling the old floor and replacing it.

Putty is applied in several approaches. First, the surface layer is smeared, then, after the mixture has hardened, it is necessary to process the cracks again. When the material dries, the surface is sanded and treated with paint or varnish.

For termination small cracks, you can independently prepare putty. For this you will need:

1 liter of water;
0.25 kg of wood glue;
small sawdust.

The water is slightly heated, gradually adding all the ingredients in portions to it. When the mixture takes the form of a thick putty, it can be used to close up problem areas.

Filling large gaps

If large gaps have formed in the boards due to wear, they can be repaired without dismantling by cutting planks of the appropriate size. Take a piece of wood. According to the length of the gap, a plank is cut out, tapering downwards. If necessary, the insert is worked out locally.

Then, having lubricated the insert with PVA glue, it is applied to the gap, and hammered with a mallet until it stops. If the element protrudes above the surface, the board is sanded and treated with penetrating compounds.

In the same way, round potholes in the wooden floor are repaired. These are usually manifestations poor quality material. Knotty places can also be repaired.

To eliminate such defects without dismantling, you need to drill the affected area and sharpen a wedge made of wood. Then, smearing the end with glue, hammer it all the way into floorboard. The protruding part is cut off with a hacksaw. Next, grinding is carried out, and processing with repair compounds.

When is array rewriting required?

Without dismantling, the repair of the wooden floor will not be possible if large potholes have formed on the surface, or the board is noticeably twisted due to cyclic temperature changes. But such a manifestation can only be observed in rooms that are not heated in winter.

Creaks when walking, deflections between lags - all this indicates that it is necessary overhaul floor, with the dismantling of the flooring. With the proper approach, it will be possible to remove the array, and, having processed it, put it again, fitting it closer to each other.

When the life of a wooden floor covering comes to an end, it must be replaced. In order to perform dismantling work efficiently and to preserve the integrity of the floor as much as possible, it is necessary to adhere to a certain technology. We will consider in more detail how the dismantling of a wooden floor is carried out.

	Reasons for dismantling the floor covering.
	How much does it cost to remove a wood floor?
	Preparatory work for the removal of the wooden covering and the dismantling of the plinth from the floor.
	Dismantling technology for wooden floors.
	Do-it-yourself dismantling of wooden flooring.

Reasons for dismantling the floor covering

Despite the fact that the wooden flooring is of quite high quality and has been used for a long time, nevertheless, after the expiration of the service life, under the influence various factors, it needs to be replaced.

There are several types of wood flooring:

laminate;

parquet board;

straight wood floor.

Each of these materials has certain disadvantages and advantages. However, they all share the following characteristics:

mold and mildew growth misuse coatings;
instability to moisture;
the possibility of deformation;
instability to temperature changes.

If you have old boards at home that have fungus or have rotten areas, they need to be replaced. Otherwise, boards can not only negatively affect the appearance of the floor, but also lead to health problems. Fungus and mold tend to cause allergies, especially when it comes to people with weak immunity and children.

Improper care of a wooden floor also leads to a quick failure. The tree needs to be treated periodically special formulations, improving its moisture resistance and increasing antiseptic characteristics. If you do not do this, then the operational period will be reduced several times.

Some of the top reasons to replace a hardwood floor include:

the use of low-quality material for the manufacture of flooring;
long service life;
untimely treatment with protective substances;
susceptibility to insects and fungi;
susceptibility to severe mechanical damage;
constant exposure to moisture.

How much does it cost to remove a wooden floor?

The price of dismantling a wooden coating depends on a number of factors and is determined by the characteristics of the room. The price of dismantling works depends on:

the possibility of exporting construction waste;

the total area of the premises where the work is carried out;

Availability concrete deck under the floor;

type of wood flooring.

In addition, the dismantling of certain types of coatings requires special skills and equipment to work with it. Some people prefer that after dismantling the boards remain as solid as possible. All this is taken into account during the work.

Preparatory work for removing the wooden covering and dismantling the plinth from the floor

There are situations when only the skirting boards prematurely become unusable, and the tree itself remains in excellent condition. In such a situation, a nail puller and a set of tools are needed to remove them. As a rule, screws and self-tapping screws are used to fix the skirting boards.

Try to unscrew all the screws before removing the skirting boards. Otherwise, a nail puller is installed under the plinth and hooks it. Do the work slowly and carefully, being careful not to damage the baseboard.

It is necessary to start work on dismantling the wooden plinth from the corner section of the room. Thanks to this, it will be possible to avoid damage to the plinth. After the nail comes out, repeat the action with other fasteners. Carry out the removal of the plinth, following the indicated instructions.

It is possible that certain difficulties will arise in the process of separating the plinth, which were not previously visible under a layer of paint. In this case, apply additional efforts to eliminate it.

If the skirting board is very old and you cannot see where the nails are to be installed, then also use a nail puller to remove it. But, when performing work, set the nail puller 10 cm from any corner in the room and move in the same direction, gently lifting the baseboard.

If long nails were used during fixing the plinth on the surface of the floor covering, then to remove them, it is advised to place a small piece of wood or several bars under the nail puller.

If it is not possible to remove the plinth without damaging the floor, then a tool in the form of a chisel is used to dismantle it. Use a nail puller to get rid of nails.

Tip: If you cannot determine the location of the fasteners, since nails are often sealed with putty on wood, in this case, you should focus on the average fixation of the plinth. Usually, the first fasteners are located 10 cm from the corner, and the interval between the nails is approximately half a meter.

A screwdriver is only needed if screws were used to fix the baseboard. In this situation, instead of a screwdriver, you can take a screwdriver.

Dismantling technology for wooden floors

Before starting work on the self-dismantling of wooden flooring, consider the following features:

Think in advance about the disposal of garbage from under the old boards and the floor, which will need to be disposed of, especially for the owners of small apartments.
This process very noisy, so it should be carried out in the daytime.
It is preferable if at least two people are involved in the work, thus, it will be possible to shorten the process several times.
This work is quite dusty, because a lot of dirt has accumulated under the old floor, which needs to be removed, so it is advisable to wear a special mask, glasses, clothes and gloves.

To perform dismantling work, you will need a set of tools, namely:

chisel;
hammer;
nail puller;
electric jigsaw;
screwdriver;
ticks.

Preparatory work for the dismantling of the floor covering includes the following steps:

Free the room as much as possible from extraneous things, decorative elements, furniture. It is preferable if the room is completely empty.
At the beginning of work on removing the old skirting board, follow the steps indicated above.
If there are ventilation holes in the floor, they must first be removed.
Dismantle first. upper layer wooden floor, which is finishing.
Then follows the process of getting rid of the subfloor. The room is cleared of debris and dirt.

There are several ways to remove flooring, which differ in the end result of this process:

Boards will be reused as finishing material. In this case, all actions are performed with the utmost care. This option is relevant only if the boards are torn down not because of their unsuitability, but for other reasons, for example, it is planned to install a concrete coating in their place.

Wooden materials will no longer be used. This process is easier, because no extra care is required in the process of removing the boards.

We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for removing a wooden floor using finished materials in future:

Each board must be numbered so that in the future you can follow the installation order.
Work begins with the removal of the plinth. Instructions for carrying out these works have been presented above.
In order not to damage the wood with a nail puller, it is recommended to place small blocks of plywood or wood under them before using the tools.
The dismantling of the floor starts from the corner sections from the first board.
The nail puller should not raise the floor covering to a height of more than three centimeters, otherwise it will not be possible to keep the flooring intact.
If you cannot remove the nails with a nail puller, then it is better to use a chisel to safely remove them.
Please note that the first board that is dismantled on the floor should be as far as possible from the entrance to the room. Also, this board must be of minimum width.
The technology for dismantling a wooden floor covering consists in pulling out a nail and raising the board. After that, with the help of a hammer, the board is installed in its original place.
Similarly, all nails are removed and only then the board is removed.
If situations arise when the nail puller cannot be installed between the board and the wall, then it is necessary to equip a small hole, in the future it can be covered with a plinth.
To remove all subsequent boards, follow the above procedure.

Do-it-yourself wooden flooring dismantling

After removing the baseboards and preparing the base, the process of dismantling the wooden boards follows. Work must begin with the removal of the upper part of the coating, which is located opposite the entrance to the room and is connected to the wall.

If there is a cut board on the floor, then you need to start with it. If the boards were mounted using screws, then they should first be removed, this can be done with a screwdriver or a Phillips screwdriver. Further removed groove boards, after which the floor is easily disassembled into separate parts.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a wooden floor that is fixed with nails. In this case, you will have to perform a number of the following actions:

find the board that was laid most recently;

install a nail puller under it, if the nail is very long, then plywood or a bar should be installed under the tool;

raise the board from the lag by 2-3 centimeters;

remove the nail and put the board in its original place, it is important that at this moment the nail head sticks out and separates from the floor;

use a nail puller to remove the nail, in order to avoid damaging the boards, place a lining (wood, plywood) under the nail puller.

The process of removing all subsequent nails is exactly the same as in the instructions above. Please note that in order to avoid damage, the boards should not rise above the ball by more than 3 cm. Otherwise, the board will become unusable.

To dismantle the second and all subsequent boards, it is necessary to install an additional board between them to increase the distance between them. Thanks to this, a nail puller can fit in the resulting cracks.

There are situations when, in the process of dismantling, spike connections between the lags break. This happens when the material has already lost its characteristics. The spikes evenly distribute the load, moreover, if there is a certain distance between the lags, then a creak may form during the operation of the wooden floor.

If damage to the spike cannot be avoided, then glue and a piece of board, which is fixed with a small nail, are suitable for its restoration. Appearance boards will lose their attractiveness, however functional purpose will remain.

If there are certain difficulties when installing the nail puller, then use a hammer, it will help to hammer the nail puller into the space between wooden planks. If the hammer turns out to be useless, then you need to remove part of the board with the help of special equipment, while it will be completely damaged.

After dismantling the main part of the wooden floor, the removal of rough coating. Also use a nail puller to remove the lag. If there is damage to concrete pavement, you will need to delete it. This process will not only take a lot of time, but also require special skills and equipment to work with it. Therefore, it is best to resort to the services of professionals. At the same time, experts building portal"Remontik" is recommended to contact several organizations at once and compare the price of their services. The cost is determined individual features room where work is being done.

Please note that the contract for the performance of these works must be formalized, while it is worth considering all the details, up to waste disposal. After dismantling the flooring, you are given the opportunity to install a new floor or build concrete screed, and if you follow the installation and operation technologies, the floor will last for many years.

How much does it cost to remove a wooden floor? Price table

Prices for the dismantling of a wooden floor are calculated based on labor costs and the area of the surface to be removed.

Features of professional flooring dismantling

A fire extinguisher must be available when removing parquet or wood floors. You will also need a stretcher or a cart to carry the garbage to the place of loading. If parts of the floor are supposed to be reused, then dismantling work is carried out as carefully as possible. Insofar as this species work is very costly, then, accordingly, the cost will be higher. Dismantling of screed, tiles, reinforced concrete and concrete floors requires significant physical effort, moreover, the price depends on the thickness of the coating.

If you have any questions, please specify by phone or in the feedback form, all contact details are listed on the pages of the site.

The wooden floor in residential premises has been and remains one of the most comfortable and beautiful. Even the most expensive laminate cannot replace a warm and pleasant to the touch natural array. But the beauty of wood must be able to preserve. To do this, you have to protect the wooden surface with varnish, oil or oil-wax.

Back in the first half of the 20th century, there was a tradition in noble houses to regularly rub wax mastic on the wooden floor. And it was done very original way- legs, on which special brushes are put on. This process was very funny, but over time pretty fed up. As a result, wooden floors began to be covered with parquet varnish, which required updating every 5-7 years. look after varnished parquet was much easier than waxed. It was enough to wipe it with a damp cloth. Parquet lacquer creates a durable impervious film on wood, resistant to abrasion and moisture. Thanks to the appearance of durable parquet varnishes, the parquet itself has become very popular among the masses.

It seemed that the problem of parquet and other wooden flooring had been solved. Lacquer allows you to preserve the texture of wood, protects flooring from mechanical stress, moisture and penetrating dirt. And indeed it is. But, even the thinnest varnish film actually isolates natural wood from humans. That is, no one will notice if, for example, plastic parquet is hidden under the varnish. Moreover, not a single molecule of the substances that make up the plastic will come out of the “lacquer capsule”. In general, in the struggle for naturalness, varnish began to lose ground, and they were looking for an alternative. However, do not go back to the past, dancing on the parquet with brushes on your feet! At the same time, it is impossible to leave a tree without protection. An exposed wooden surface will quickly become dirty and unkempt. A dilemma on the face. Hence the beginning of the struggle of various protective compounds, one of which remains the same varnish.

Lacquered floor

Block parquet, engineering and massive board, covered with several layers of varnish, for a long time is reliably protected from pollution. In addition, the varnish makes its texture more contrasting and expressive, and also gives the flooring a shine or matte sheen. When choosing a varnish, it is important not to make a mistake and take into account many factors.

Modern varnishes are divided into two main groups. There are varnishes on water based and based on organic solvents. Water-based varnishes are rightfully considered the most environmentally friendly, since they do not emit toxins and pungent odors during their application, and also - harmful substances during operation.

The main function of varnish is education protective film on the wood surface. Polymer base varnishes are provided by the presence of polyurethane, acrylic, acrylates or their combinations. Polyurethane varnish is considered the best, because it has the highest resistance to elasticity, strength and abrasion resistance.

Lacquer should be applied on a primed base. The primer is matched to the varnish and to the wood. As a rule, varnish and primer are elements of one system. Primers are colorless or tinted. In addition to giving color to the wood, they provide excellent varnish adhesion.

Today, wooden coatings offered by the market are represented not only by local species, such as oak, cedar, ash, but also by exotic ones. And if our wood generally perceives varnish normally, then among the “exotics” there are very capricious breeds. These include, for example, merbau, which contains salts. When a water-soluble varnish is applied to a merbau floor, the salts dissolve with water and form ugly stains. In order not to spoil such a floor, it is recommended to open it with varnish on organic solvents, if as protective coating chose varnish.

Some exotic species, such as teak, iroko, olive, contain a large amount of oils. Water-based primers and varnishes do not adhere well to them, as oil is known to repel water. Usually, the use of water varnish for these breeds, leads to the appearance of many cloudy spots. These are oil pockets that do not overlap with varnish.

Experts recommend using the recommended primer + varnish combinations to protect wooden flooring and not experimenting with self-selection. To date, systems from such manufacturers as ALPINA, ADESIV, BONA, Lobadur WS, PALLMAN, NEOPUR, TIKKURILA, VERMEISTER have proven themselves well.

Advantages of varnish coatings:

wear resistance;
protection against moisture penetration into the wood structure;
resistance to mechanical stress;
pollution protection;
maintainability.

Flaws:

sensitivity to temperature and humidity fluctuations;
accumulation of electrostatic electricity;
for repair requires the removal of the old varnish coating.

Parquet oils

Oil as a means of protecting the parquet floor has fans and opponents. But unequivocally answer what is better: varnish or oil? - it is forbidden. These coatings should be considered in the context of the specific flooring material.

Among domestic consumers in Lately became extremely popular parquet board. Affordable price of this type of flooring and natural look did their job. However, the working layer of natural wood parquet boards is small, and, as a rule, is 4 mm. If the parquet board is varnished, then each scraping will take at least 0.5 mm from it. Accordingly, after 20-25 years, the working layer will become so thin that the floor will have to be changed. Piece parquet can survive dozens of cycles, and therefore this type of coating can lie on the floor for up to half a century.

Based on considerations of the service life, it is more profitable to cover the parquet board with oil (or oil-wax). The thing is that the oil does not form a film on the surface, but is absorbed into the structure of the wood. Oiled parquet boards do not need sanding to renovate - just open them with another layer of oil. But there is one but. Oil impregnation well protects against moisture and various pollutants, but absolutely does not protect wood from mechanical influences, in particular abrasion. Therefore, oil should be used in areas with low traffic, where there are no significant loads on the flooring. So, the oil is well suited for coatings in bedrooms and children's rooms. And in hallways and living rooms it is better to use varnish.

Good wood floor oils famous brands: ADESIV, BONA, LOBA, OSMO, TIKKURILA, VERMEISTER.

Advantages of oil treatment:

deep penetration;
does not exfoliate and does not crack;
resistant to temperature and humidity fluctuations;
antistatic properties;
ease of application;
efficiency of local repair.

Flaws:

afraid of liquids;
the need to update every 1-2 years.

Oil plus wax

The combination of wax with modified natural oils gives a unique effect in protecting wood. Oil-wax is a technically complex material that provides comprehensive protection. The oily component impregnates the wood, fills its pores, and the wax forms a protective water-repellent film. By its properties, the wax layer is close to the layer of varnish on an organic solvent.

Modern oil-waxes are easy to apply. If pure oils are to be rubbed into wood flooring, then technological oil-waxes can be applied with a roller, like a varnish.

In operation, oil-waxes have proven themselves better than oils. Wood surfaces that have been treated with clean oil can stain if spilled water on the floor is not cleaned up immediately. The oil fills most of the pores, but some remain open. Through them, the wood absorbs water and darkens. The reverse process (evaporation of water) takes a long time, while the spots still do not completely disappear. But water does not penetrate through the wax film, thanks to this, floors treated with oil-waxes are suitable even for kitchens and bathrooms.

Oil waxes have very high adhesion to wooden surface. Moreover, the adhesion force exceeds mechanical strength the wax oil itself. This means that under various loads, the delamination of oil-wax is excluded - its layer will break earlier. With lacquer, the opposite happens - first of all, the lacquer film peels off. The mentioned property of oil-wax can be very useful in cases where the wooden flooring is regularly exposed to changes in temperature and humidity conditions. Such unstable conditions most often characteristic of country houses where the owners live only from time to time.

Another advantage of oil waxes is that they are compatible with almost any type of wood, including exotic ones. The salts and oils contained in the "exotics" do not conflict with oil-waxes, so you can not be afraid of surprises.

Advantages of wax oil:

structural and surface protection;
preserves the natural look of wood;
does not pass spilled liquids;
does not crack, does not exfoliate;
antistatic;
low consumption during processing;
possibility of local updating.

Flaws:

requires regular updating (every 1-2 years).

How to care for wood floors

Any wood floor needs special care. If you want them to always look perfect, then you will have to remove debris and dust from them daily. Wet cleaning is carried out no more than once a week. In this case, the rag must be squeezed well so that puddles do not remain on the floor. Ideally a wooden floor after wet cleaning should dry within 1-2 minutes.

Most manufacturers of protective compounds for wood floors offer and special means to take care of them. It can be sinks and polishes. Detergent helps to remove dirt with minimal wetting of the cloth, and the polish provides shine, dirt-repellent effect and an additional protective layer.

Wood floors exposed with oil or oil-wax require periodic renewal of the protective layer. This is done quite easily, but all the furniture will have to be taken out of the room. You can update the floor in parts, leaving the furniture and putting it in place after processing the site. Oil-waxes with repeated applications are simply rubbed with a device similar to a mop. After drying, they are absolutely safe for people and animals. It is pleasant to walk on the waxed floor with bare feet. Oil and wax do not actually isolate us from wood. The frequency of updating the layer depends on the intensity of use of the coating.