Homemade table for a wood router by your own. Router table: device and self-assembly
- Device
- FS design example
- Stanina
- Table top
- Working plate
- Rings
- Milling cutter
- Router fasteners
- Guide rail
- Stop strips
- Nozzle
- Longitudinal movable stop
- Additional clamps
- Rotary FS
The owner of a private house has to do a lot of repairs, improve their living conditions. The milling table will be an excellent solution for the manufacture of various parts and accessories from wood, as it provides precision and good quality of workpieces processing.
The table is the main base of the machine. The working body of the equipment is a cutter, a part with several cutting blades. With its help, various types of grooves, channels, windows (vertical recesses), bevels of an oval profile and much more are made in wooden blanks. Milling - mechanical processing of workpieces with a multi-edge tool. The milling cutter, in addition to the rotational movement, makes translational movements. A bed with a table top for processing wood products is called a milling table (FS).
Device
Correct installation of the router in the table depends on a flawless frame design. The working surface of the machine is located on the bed. From below, a router is attached to the plate, which moves along the vertical axis. The workpiece is fixed in the transverse direction with a special device - a parallel stop for the milling table.
The principle of the FS can be compared to how a circular saw works. A wood material is pushed onto a rotating blade body installed in a stationary position for processing.
FS design example
For the manufacture of FS, you will need the following materials:
- or ;
- small pieces of chipboard or plywood;
- various hardware;
- metal corner;
- steel plate;
- aluminum profile;
- lift (jack);
- carriage;
- plastic clamps.
The drawing shows the dimensions of the parts, which can be adjusted in each case of the individual design of the FS. This homemade hand router table is an example of the most primitive FS design. Homemade FS designs can be made from other materials. It all depends on the capabilities and qualifications of the one who took up such work.
Self-made FS
Consider the structural features of FS parts:
Stanina
The supporting part of the machine can be made from a wooden bar or welded from a metal profile. The required bed drawing is shown below.
An ordinary workbench can be used for FS. But you need to know that during the operation of the power unit, strong vibrations will occur. If the workbench is not stable enough, then a special support structure should be made. The main load is transferred from the platform down to the machine support. Therefore, the bed must be heavy.
Table top
The working area of the table is the table top. It is better to make it from PCB 20-30 mm thick. Why choose textolite? This is due to the fact that the entire process of processing workpieces is associated with the sliding of parts on the working surface of the table. Textolite differs from other materials in a high degree of wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction. A worktop made of such a material will not harm the solid surface of the workpiece and will serve for many years.
Instead of textolite, a steel plate with a thickness of 6 mm or more can be used as a working platform for a table.
Working plate
The milling plate is made of PCB or metal sheet. A hole is made in the plate into which metal rings are inserted. Rings with different diameters are inserted into each other. The ring inserts are flush with the worktop surface.
Rings
What are rings for? They ensure that the cutter fits snugly into the workpiece body. Different ring sizes correspond to different cutting element diameters.
Milling cutter
Since the router is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, the FS design creates free space at the bottom. Installation and maintenance of the power plant should not be difficult due to the cramped conditions at the bottom of the machine.
The universal power unit that drives the cutter is called a milling cutter. It can be done using any suitable electric motor. But this is within the power of a person with extensive experience in this field of activity. The best option would be to purchase a ready-made manual router.
The manual milling cutter is a multifunctional unit. A variety of operations are performed with a power tool. It is mainly used for processing wooden blanks.
However, it is very difficult to hold the tool in your hands and at the same time try to fix a wooden part. This will not do the trick. To make parts with high precision, the router is fixed on a special table.
The sole of the router has threaded holes. The holes are used for fastening the tool with screws to the plate built into the FS tabletop.
Router fasteners
Tabletops and plates on milling tables must be located strictly in the same horizontal plane. The fixing screws on the plate are screwed into the countersunk holes. Nothing should protrude or sink on the FS working surface.
In the absence of mounting holes in the router body, they are cut independently. To fix the plate in the table top, make a sample of the material from the bottom. If the platform is made of steel sheet, then the metal plate is equipped with special mountings.
Elevator
On professional machines, a special device is installed to move the milling cutter vertically - an elevator.
With a certain skill, you can adapt a jack or other lever lifting mechanism as an elevator. The best option would be to purchase a ready-made elevator in the retail network. The main thing in the design of the lifting mechanism is to ensure reliable fixation of the unit at a particular height. The conical arrangement of the cutting elements of the cutter allows, at a certain height of the protrusion above the working surface of the FS, to regulate the depth and width of the working in the body of the workpiece.
Guide rail
The guide rail is made of a duralumin profile. You can use as a guide rail duralumin tracks used in furniture to move the sliding doors of the cabinet. A sample is made under the rail with a hand mill. The guide track must be placed parallel to the opposite abutment wall.
Stop strips
At the ends of the tabletop, on both sides, duralumin tracks are installed, along which the frame structure with stop strips moves. A ruler is attached parallel to the track at the end. A ruler can be made from a regular tape measure.
The stop bars act as lateral support for the workpieces. They are located on both sides of the milling head. To protect the operator's eyes from chips, the gap between the slats is covered with transparent plastic.
Nozzle
A suction nozzle is mounted on the outside of the stop strips above the milling head. During the operation of the machine, it is connected to a vacuum cleaner. This effectively removes wood dust and shavings from the work area.
Longitudinal movable stop
The lower part of the sliding stop is inserted into the guide track. The stand moves freely along the FS. With its vertical wall, the device abuts against the base of the workpiece. By pressing the stop, the machine operator moves the part along the table during milling.
Additional clamps
The clips are made of plastic. They keep the workpiece from unintentional displacement of the part in the vertical and horizontal plane. The clamps are mounted on a special stand.
Rotary FS
A rotary table for a milling machine is a rather complex technical device. Rotary FS allows you to set the angle of inclination of the workpiece. This is due to the ability of the working surface of the table to move in different directions. On machines equipped with CNC, it is possible to manufacture parts with a round and spiral configuration.
FS with manual control perform various roundings, allow you to process curved surfaces of parts. The most common FS diameter is from 300 to 600 mm. The swivel mechanism moves the working surface of the table both in the horizontal plane and in the transverse-longitudinal and vertical-horizontal planes.
The horizontal-vertical rotating platform ensures high quality workpieces processing. The vertical-horizontal working platform makes it possible to perform circular processing of parts and form screw channels on the surface of the products.
Rotary tables are used for processing steel parts and workpieces from other metals.
Only highly qualified specialists can make a rotary machine with their own hands. It is advantageous to have a machine of this design when doing business. For one-time work, it is economically unprofitable to maintain a rotary FS in your farm.
Below is a video demonstrating a simple diagram of the FS structure. Collecting such equipment is quite accessible to a person with experience in carpentry.
Compliance with safety precautions
The milling table is equipped with an electric tool. During the operation of the machine, the following safety precautions must be observed:
- If the FS frame is made of metal, then it is necessary to arrange the grounding of the tabletop support.
- It is important to install the machine in a well-ventilated and well-lit area.
- In the case of manufacturing FS from wooden parts, the router body itself is grounded.
I made this table from 18 mm. plywood. Its thickness is enough to make the structure very strong. To strengthen the structural elements, I used a metal corner with a section of 40X40 mm.
The table top measures 800X500 mm. A hole is cut in the center to fit the size of the router's foot. The sides are attached to the tabletop at the corners with self-tapping screws. From the bottom, the sidewalls are also connected with corners and self-tapping screws. 4 holes of 10 mm are drilled in the worktop. and hammer-in nuts are installed for fastening the dies. A plug and a switch are made in the right sidewall for easy starting of the router. The "Start" button on the router itself is locked.
The router base is screwed onto a 2mm thick steel plate. and a size of 200X200 mm. A recess is made in the tabletop and the plate is placed flush on top, attached to the tabletop with self-tapping screws .. A hole with a diameter of 50 mm is cut out in the center of the plate.
An automobile jack is used to raise and lower the router. It is attached to the base of the table with self-tapping screws. The handle has been replaced with a homemade flywheel for smoother adjustment. The jack is not attached to the router in any way.
The guide fence is also made of plywood. Assembled with "Moment-joiner" glue and reinforced with self-tapping screws. In the middle of the line, there is a box with a hole for attaching the vacuum cleaner pipe. Adjustment grooves are cut on the sides of the ruler. 10 mm bolts are inserted into the tabletop, the ruler is attached to the bolts with eye nuts.
The combs are cut from fir and serve to press the workpiece more tightly to the guide. The grooves are cut in the comb for moving along the tabletop. Bolts with bushings are used to fix the combs to the table top.
To prevent the workpiece from moving up and down, a special spring stop is made of plywood. It attaches to the guide fence by the wing nuts.
That's the whole construction. And you can see in more detail about this table in my film.
Professional processing and manufacturing of wooden parts is possible only with the use of a milling machine. You can fully use this tool in a special installation. This is the milling table. This setup is rare and the commercially available options are quite expensive. It makes no sense to spend a lot of money on the purchase of this design, since you can make it yourself.
Milling table: purpose, types
The convenience of using a router located in the table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface to be treated, but the part moves relative to it. The milling cutter, fixed in the table, gives wider possibilities for processing parts. As a result, blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide on the appearance and size. Consideration should be given to the possibility of modernizing the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable to use. The presence of boxes will create additional comfort in work
Compact DIY design will replace an industrial machine
There are three main types of milling tables:
- Stationary - a specialized design, as a rule, bulky and non-portable.
- Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively low weight. This table is easy to move.
- Aggregate - the design provides for the expansion of the saw table surface.
Construction diagram
For self-made countertops, they usually use MDF boards, pasted over with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.
Wooden structure is easy to handle and use
Some craftsmen believe that the metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will be an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. Also, the metal is susceptible to corrosion, so it must be painted.
The milling table covers must be smooth. They are often made from plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics lend themselves well to processing. This is very convenient when making grooves for an aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening a longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and planks, these materials are reasonably priced.
In branded worktops made of steel or aluminum, holes are already provided for a specific router model. If the produced models of countertops are made of MDF plates or plastic, then firms prepare only holes for the plates. Although this is not always the case.
There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is fastened with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the worktop surface. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, workpieces will catch on it.
The table top is equipped with adjusting screws or other means to level the plate. It is better to choose an insert with replaceable rings. This is necessary in order to select the holes of the rings according to the size of the cutter diameter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the milling table working surface.
Convenient when selecting the cutter diameter
In milling operations, a rip fence is often required to guide the workpiece at the desired angle. For work to be done accurately, it must be flat along its entire length, located strictly perpendicular to the table surface and easily reconfigured for different processes. The front parts of the stop can be made both solid and in the form of several overlays. To accumulate chips and debris, the side stop is equipped with a branch pipe. The hose of the vacuum cleaner is connected to it.
The front parts of the stop in the form of several fixable pads
The milling table can be upgraded with a bed into which the grinder will be fixed. You can read more about making this structure yourself.
Required tools and materials
- Joiner's glue.
- Bolts with nuts.
- Screws.
- MDF board and birch plywood sheet
- Electric jigsaw.
- Spanners.
- Sandpaper.
- Ruler.
- Pencil
Drawings and calculation
To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two pedestals. The easiest way to create a table top, support and parts for a milling table is to use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board laminated on both sides will not warp during operation. In our case, in the manufacture of a milling table, we used:
- 1 MDF panel, 19x1000x1800 mm.
- 1 plywood sheet, 19x1000x1650 mm in size.
- 1 plate, 4x30x30 mm in size.
- Aluminum rails - 2.3 m.
- Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
Photo gallery: Milling table schemes
Step-by-step instruction
The structure of the table top will consist of wooden parts that are sawn from a solid 19 mm MDF board. Birch plywood can be used as a substitute for this material.
- Cut the sheet material into fragments according to the specified dimensions.
1 - working surface; 2 - the base of the stop; 3 - its wall of the stop; 4 - kerchief (4 pieces, dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - tsar (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)
Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.
- It is necessary to remove the plastic pad from the sole of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking with cutters on the surface of the table top.
The plastic overlay will serve as a template for marking
- On the largest cut-out part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make a markup for the cutter. To do this, draw a line at a distance of 235 mm from the edge in the middle, placing a mark. Then place the overlay so that the adjustment mechanisms of the router are closer to the edge of the table. With the trim evenly positioned, mark the places for drilling the holes, which will be fixed with screws.
The mounting holes must line up with the trim
- Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the edge of the sole as shown in the image.
Determination of its diameter
- From the middle of the cut off part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D / 2- (D-H).
Measurements are taken from the edge of the lining sole
- With the help of the holes in the base of the lining, mark the future holes for the mounting screws.
Using the overlay as a template
- Drill holes for fasteners and cutters in parts # 2 and 3. At the base and front of the stop, mark out the semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut out the semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.
In the diagram, semicircular cuts are not made
- Fasten four strips (part no. 7) to the underside of the tabletop with screws.
Use carpentry or epoxy glue
- Glue the rest of the blanks and fix them with screws. Install a router underneath the worktop.
1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on the gantry; 2 - king; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with a countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - kerchief; 7 - the base of the stop
- Now it is necessary to make the supporting structure of the table. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.
1 - outer side rack; 2 - inner rack; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base
- Saw plywood into pieces according to dimensions.
- Assemble the structure of the table, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient to use for storing tools and consumables.
1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - the bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear rack
- Then it is necessary to make a mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater overhang of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. For the manufacture of the plate, duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm is required. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the sole of the router on it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will be used as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the lining. After that, remove the cover and make recesses for the caps in the plate with a large drill.
Allows the milling cutter to process parts as much as possible
- As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and outline its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the countertop, sanding the edges of the cutout.
A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier
- Drill holes at the attachment point of the cutter and expand them on the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the worktop, aligning them for bolting. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the worktop and fasten with the screws.
The holes of the table top and the plate must match
- For the convenience of working on the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help to further process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to cut the guides from the T-shaped profile into the surface of the plate.
Swivel and side stops make the process easy
- Install the guide profile in the front plate of the stop for attaching the hold-downs, trims and guards.
- To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a dust extraction pipe. To do this, you need to cut out a piece of 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the part we make a round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for the vacuum cleaner.
The part is made of plywood
- Add a plywood and plexiglass protective shield for the stop.
For convenience, wing nuts are used
- For milling small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. It is better to use maple wood when making a pressure-comb. To cut out a part, you need to choose a section with a straight direction of the wood grain. The crests of the ridges are best done with a circular saw on the machine.
Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments
- Fix the guide with the clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in the places where milling work will be carried out. Remove dust from all wooden elements and coat with oil.
Safety engineering
When working on a milling machine, accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of the processed parts flying off from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove the entire tool from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. It is also possible to equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent the dispersion of particles.
While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective shield and measuring workpieces are not allowed. Protective goggles must be worn to avoid eye contact with emitted particles. This is especially true for high-speed milling or processing of bronze elements, cast iron or silumin.
It is necessary to embed the cutter into the part gradually. Power feed must be turned on before the part touches the cutter drill. During the rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable that the hands are close to the rotation zone of the tool. Before installing the drills, you need to make sure they are reliable and durable, as well as the integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips and cracks. If such defects are found, they must be replaced.
Video: Making a milling table with your own hands
Thanks to the relatively inexpensive materials and your skill, you can build a compact milling table design. This will allow you to make parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.
In this article, I will show you how to make a do-it-yourself milling table. But first, a little history ... The advent of hand-held milling machines in 1974 allowed small workshops to carry out a number of furniture-making work at a completely different level. At the same time, it became necessary to create a table for a hand router. Long grooves of various configurations can be produced here. In the presence of special cutters, the desired type of processed surface of the part is formed from wood or other soft materials.
Milling tables in workshops that produce wood products have been used for more than 150 years. These machines take up a lot of space and create the necessary space around them to handle long workpieces. In private workshops, it is easier to use a home-made milling table, which uses a small-sized light machine with a built-in electric drive. You can make such a device for yourself in a couple of days. It is important to determine your needs, depending on the tasks for the next period.
Small milling table (drawings, accessories)
Quite often, a small-sized underframe is installed on a support, in which a manual router is placed. If necessary, it can be removed and put aside, freeing up space inside the workshop.
Small table for hand router
This fixture is made from solid hardwood (maple) and birch plywood. Drawings of sub-assemblies and individual parts are shown below.
 | The sides will be assembled according to the attached diagram. This is what the table looks like in section. |
 | Top view of the table. The main dimensions are shown here. The table top is made of two layers. |
 | Manufacturing sequence. Carrying out the markup before starting to cut the window. The work is carried out in the lower layer. |
 | The sequence of making the top layer. |
 | Both layers stick together. Installation of guide strips. They are needed to cut the window with a milling cutter. |
 | Milling in relation to guide strips. |
 | The design of the parallel stop placed on the table. |
 | End gusset. They are installed at the ends of the stop. |
 | In the middle part, for additional reinforcement, two more additional scarves are installed. A dust extraction pipe is installed. A hose from the vacuum cleaner will be connected to it. |
 | Holder for the flap. The shield itself is made of plexiglass. |
Parts are needed to make such a fixture. Their sizes, quantity and materials are shown in table 1.
Table 1: Accessories for making a table for a manual router
| the name of detail | Symbols in drawings | Characteristics of semi-finished products | ||||
| Thickness, mm | Width, mm | Length, mm | Type of material for production | Number of details | ||
| Table details | ||||||
| Panel A | A | 19 | 522 | 622 | Birch plywood | 1 |
| Panel B (cladding) | B | 3 | 522 | 622 | Hard fiberboard | 1 |
| Longitudinal edge onlays | C | 19 | 40 | 660 | Solid maple | 2 |
| Side edging pads | D | 19 | 40 | 560 | Solid maple | 2 |
| Legs | E | 19 | 292 | 521 | Birch plywood | 2 |
| Screeds | F | 19 | 76 | 521 | Solid maple | 4 |
| Power cord strip | G | 19 | 51 | 420 | Solid maple | 1 |
| Table support | ||||||
| Stop wall vertical | H | 19 | 152 | 661 | Solid maple | 1 |
| The base is horizontal | I | 19 | 76 | 661 | Solid maple | 1 |
| Gussets for dust extractor connection | J | 19 | 64 | 79 | Solid maple | 2 |
| End plates | K | 19 | 121 | 191 | Solid maple | 2 |
| Additional accessories | ||||||
| Holder | L | 19 | 127 | 127 | Solid maple | 1 |
| Shield | M | 6 | 70 | 127 | Plexiglass | 1 |
| Clamp-comb | N | 19 | 45 | 203 | Solid maple | 2 |
| Stop block | O | 19 | 45 | 76 | Solid maple | 2 |
How to make a milling table with your own hands?
Many craftsmen adapt an ordinary workbench as a table for a router. However, in practice it has been proven that it is better to have a separate specialized design. The explanation is simple:
- during operation, vibration will occur, which can lead to an unstable position of parts on the workbench;
- to move up and down, you need a special device (lift). In an ordinary workbench, there is often no free space.
An important feature of the router is the need to install a base plate connected to the table top. For her I use metal, plexiglass or durable plywood. Fixation is carried out using holes. Most manufacturers of hand tools provide fasteners for their products in advance, assuming that a significant part of their products will be used in a stationary version.
Various cutters are used during the work.
Milling methods using different types of router bits
Based on the study of known designs, a number of basic requirements for a milling table have been formulated.
- The base plate must be in the same plane as the table. When moving the workpieces to be processed, vertical displacement on the support is not allowed. Some craftsmen keep the base sole. Bring it to zero with a table top. But most agree that another plate needs to be made.
- For the convenience and safe use of the machine, the on and off buttons should be positioned so that they can be quickly used. A situation may arise when you need to turn off the power to the engine urgently.
- The movement of the workpieces is carried out relative to the stop. It can be displaced so that the master has the opportunity to mill edges as well as grooves in semi-finished products.
- It is useful to consider the location of the machine. It needs a comfortable hike. You may need to mill the length. Then the workpieces must be stacked on both sides of the table.
- Some craftsmen adapt the installation of only the tabletop on the existing machine. This makes it possible to combine several devices on one bed.
Even an ordinary table can be converted into a machine. An example of such a transformation is shown in the video.
To make the most of the machine's capabilities, the thickness of the base plate should be minimized. Then the cutter overhang will be maximum. In practice, long finger cutters can be used for deep milling. Only fairly rigid materials will provide strength.
Mounting the device for vertical movement
The movement of the hand router up and down is carried out using a device called an elevator. Here, a variety of mechanisms are used for movement and fixation of a given position.
A possible elevator option is shown in the video.
Option for making a compact table with drawers
Quite an interesting design that is easy to repeat for your own workshop.
Real view of the machine for milling workpieces
Constructive study in three-dimensional display using engineering programs
 | Frame made of individual parts. They are made from softwood. |
 | Organization of cuts when joining frame parts in the upper part. Basic dimensions shown. |
 | Organization of cuts when joining frame parts at the bottom. |
 | To install the rails for the drawers, you will need to glue these parts from two blanks. |
 | Assembly of the table frame and installation of the cladding side panels. |
 | The table top consists of two plates. They are framed with side ribs. It is required to do the mustache docking. |
 | The stop is made from several parts. |
 | Large drawer design. |
 | Small drawer design. |
 | The order of installation of the elements of the front of the box. |
To manufacture such a machine, you will need to complete a blank of parts. Table 2 shows the complete set, the dimensions of the workpieces and the material.
Table 2: Accessories for making a table for a router
| Position in drawings | Name | Finished dimensions, final | Quantity | Material | ||
| Thickness, mm | Width, mm | Length, mm | ||||
| Frame | ||||||
| 1 | Front and rear horizontal frames | 50 | 40 | 780 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 2 | Racks | 50 | 50 | 860 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 3 | Horizontal side frames | 50 | 40 | 550 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 4 | Front and back horizontal | 50 | 20 | 750 | 2 | Solid pine |
| 5 | Side window frame, vertical | 50 | 50 | 380 | 4 | Solid pine |
| 6 | Side window frame, horizontal | 50 | 20 | 360 | 2 | Solid pine |
| Panels | ||||||
| 7 | Side panels | 6 | 740 | 518 | 2 | Birch plywood |
| 8 | Side pane windows | 6 | 600 | 393 | 2 | Birch plywood |
| 9 | Bottom window | 6 | 600 | 400 | 1 | Birch plywood |
| Large drawers | ||||||
| 10 | Drawer side | 16 | 140 | 550 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 11 | 29 | 140 | 348 | 8 | Solid pine | |
| 12 | Drawer front | 7 | 168 | 348 | 4 | Ash tree |
| 13 | Bottom | 6 | 138 | 570 | 4 | Birch plywood |
| Small drawers | ||||||
| 14 | Drawer side | 16 | 100 | 550 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 15 | Front and rear drawer side | 29 | 100 | 138 | 8 | Solid pine |
| 16 | Drawer front | 7 | 108 | 138 | 4 | Ash tree |
| 17 | Bottom | 6 | 570 | 348 | 4 | Birch plywood |
| Table top | ||||||
| 18 | Upper layer | 18 | 700 | 920 | 1 | Birch plywood |
| 19 | Front and rear trim strips | 10 | 38 | 940 | 2 | Ash tree |
| 20 | Side trim strips | 10 | 38 | 720 | 2 | Ash tree |
| 21 | Stop wall | 18 | 150 | 750 | 1 | Birch plywood |
| 22 | Stop base | 18 | 150 | 640 | 1 | Birch plywood |
| 23 | Front stop bar | 10 | 90 | 380 | 2 | Ash tree |
| 24 | Top edge stop | 10 | 420 | 550 | 1 | Ash tree |
Constructive version of the milling table
The benchtop wood router is shown below.
 | Constructive study of the product in three-dimensional modeling programs. |
 | |
 | Back view. A hose comes out of a special box, installed on the stop, which is connected to the vacuum cleaner. This is how the dust generated during the milling of workpieces is removed. |
 | |
 | The finger router is currently raised as high as possible. The window is open. |
 | The leaves are shifted. The cutter itself is lowered down. |
 | Manual router installed in the space under the worktop. |
 | Structural design of connections for dust extraction (aspiration system). |
 | Features of tool fastening. The pipelines for the removal of chips are visible. |
 | Installing the long screw. It adjusts the position of the cutters on the working surface. |
 | Turning the nut on the screw moves the router up or down. A socket wrench is used. |
 | With the help of the measuring tool, the vertical overhang of the cutter is set outside the table. |
 | Adjustment of the position of the cutter from the stop. |
 | Desktop. The router is not installed. Only plexiglass is visible, to which the router is attached. |
 | The quality of the work. There are no gaps between the glass and the worktop. |
 | Before installation in the table, the router is screwed to the plexiglass support platform. |
Option for making a table for a router
Quite an interesting design of the table. They suggested using a car jack to raise and lower the tool.
 | If you take the tabletop out of the pedestal box, you can see a similar design. |
 | An automobile jack allows the development of an effort of several tons. It rests against a special box where the router itself is located. |
 | This is what the countertop looks like from above. There is an emphasis. A groove is made on the surface, with an aluminum guide channel glued into it. |
 | A carriage can be installed in the groove. With its help, the part for processing can be fed at any angle. |
 | The rip fence is locked in position with wing nuts. In the horizontal plane there are grooves along which the thrust device is displaced along the working surface of the table. |
 | Vacuum cleaner connection box. You can use not only an industrial, but also a household vacuum cleaner. |
 | The router itself is attached to the worktop using a steel base plate. |
 | The features of attaching the tool to the plate can be seen in the presented photo. |
 | By rotating the handle of the jack, the master moves the router in the vertical direction. |
A detailed video about a homemade table.
Step-by-step production of a milling table based on a circular machine
There is a circular machine of industrial production. It was decided to modernize it for the possible installation of milling equipment. At the same time, the basic design does not undergo any changes. The part to be produced is quite simple and removable, if necessary, it can be removed without any problems. In fact, a removable tabletop will be made.
Brief description of the device
 | The machine has a retractable wing. It is designed for cutting large-format sheets. There is a window between the main part and the retractable one, which can be used to accommodate additional technological equipment. |
 | By extending the wing to its maximum reach, you can install a tabletop with a router. Installation option shown. |
 | After installing the table top, the retractable wing is pressed closer to the main part of the machine. All gaps are eliminated. An additional tool can be locked in this position. |
 | If you look from the side, you can see where the hand router is located. |
 | A screwdriver is used to raise and lower the tool. It has a 13 mm socket. It rotates the head of the M8 bolt. By setting the rotation in the desired direction, you can select the direction of movement of the cutter (up or down). |
Removable tabletop manufacturing technology
 | A laminated chipboard sheet is used as a table top. Its thickness is 19 mm. The size is 360 540 mm. It corresponds to the size of the resulting window on the machine. Focusing on the sides, the center is determined. The router shaft must be centered. Placed with a reference pad at the selected location, and the pad is outlined. |
 | A contour is formed on the chipboard sheet. It is necessary to make an accurate cut of the window along this contour. |
 | In order to install the support platform tightly without gaps, you need to drill holes exactly along the edges of the marking. Holes are needed at all extreme points. |
 | With a jigsaw, the window is cut out along the drawn contour. If there are irregularities, use abrasive paper and a file to rework the walls. |
 | To install the router, you need two steel rods Ø 8 mm. Construction brackets are used. You only need to saw them off using the angle grinder cutting disc for a length of 255 mm. |
 | The router has holes where you can install rods. To make them easier to install, the existing irregularities on the surface of the pins are removed with sandpaper. |
 | Having installed the tool exactly above the window, they determine the places where the rods will be located during installation. But for them you need to cut special grooves. They are milled. Preparation required for milling. |
 | With the help of pistol-type clamps, the guide strips are attached. With respect to them, the grooves for the pins will be milled. The depth relative to the surface is also set so that on the front of the table the support platform of the router is exactly flush with the table top. |
 | After milling on one side, proceed to a similar operation for the second bar. Here, guide bars are also installed and fixed in the desired position. |
 | From above, the bars must be pressed using the clamping bars. Therefore, you will need to prepare a groove where these wooden elements will also be installed. First, they are cut out and tried on in place. Then mark and mill the groove of the required size. |
 | Once installed in place, the bars will be securely and firmly pressed into their grooves. |
 | It can be seen that the deepening for the planks was made to a shallower depth. Structurally, this is what was originally intended. |
 | The router is installed in its place. It is clearly positioned in relation to the countertop used. After fixing, it will stand in a given place without the possibility of movement in any direction. |
 | Since the manufacture is carried out in an experimental mode, each stage is checked by preliminary assembly of structural elements. At the moment, it is being checked how the wooden planks will press the rods and fix the tool in place. |
 | M8 bolts will be used for fixing. They have a countersunk head. To simplify installation, wing nuts will be used. They can be screwed in without using a wrench. Along the way, such a solution allows you to adjust the flatness of the cutter sole on the front side when tightening. |
 | Pressing the parts with the help of the clamps in place from the back side, the holes are drilled. Special markup was not performed, therefore, to facilitate assembly, mating fragments are marked with markers of different colors... The countersink is used for countersinking the holes on the working surface of the table for the tapered screw heads. |
 | On the inner side of the clamping strips, the holes are bored for Ø 15 mm. M8 nuts will be hidden here. Additionally, an auxiliary groove is cut with a round file. It will allow you to press the bars more tightly. |
 | The bolts are in place. The nuts are tightened. They will hide in the prepared holes. The assembly and disassembly process does not take much time. The bolts will be permanently in this position. |
 | Now all elements are easily installed in place. No additional fit is needed. |
 | The countertop can be tried on on the table. Therefore, it is first laid with the working surface down. You will need to flip it over to see how it fits on the machine. |
 | The coup is easy. The table top is installed in its place. |
 | She stood flush with the main table of the circular saw. If the cutters are recessed, then the additional part will not interfere with the work on sawing parts. Important! The made device did not in the least worsen the properties of the main machine on which the installation is provided. |
 | Cutting out the windows and milling the auxiliary space inside the worktop weakened it noticeably. Therefore, amplification will be required. To increase the strength of the attachment being manufactured, it was decided to use additional bars. They are cut into the desired size on a sawing machine. |
 | Having cut the longitudinal and transverse bars, they are screwed to the table top. Pre-lubricated with glue, and then fixed with self-tapping screws. All holes are pre-drilled with a Ø 3 mm drill, and then countersinked under the head of a Ø 8 mm self-tapping screw. Galvanized wood screws are used. |
 | Placing the tabletop on the machine, you can see that the parallel stop will not be able to move along its guides. The design of the countertop itself needs to be revised. |
 | The surface to be removed is marked. Such removal can be performed using a router or with two passes on a circular saw. |
 | After completing the preparation, the tabletop is put back in place. To make it easier to work at this stage, the router and accessories have been removed from it. |
 | Once the excess has been removed, the rip fence can be moved around the table. It was decided to use it as a fixing device for milling. You only have to modify the auxiliary elements a little. |
Making an elevator for a milling tabletop
 | It is necessary to make several auxiliary elements that will help move the router up and down. Shown is the view of the elevator being manufactured. |
 | Turning it over, you can see the features of the device. Supports and levers are visible. You need to figure out what and how will work here. |
 | The arrow shows a fixed stand. It carries the main load from the tool. Therefore, there are special requirements for it. It must be strong enough. She will have to resist the weight of the router, as well as the return springs that are installed on this tool. |
 | This arrow points to the axis. The lever can rotate relative to it. The milling cutter itself "hangs" on this lever. |
 | The design of the lever has a special feature. There is a radial bulge here. It rests on the part of the router where there are no ventilation holes. Additionally, it has a thickening in the plastic body, so the pressure will not violate the integrity of the tool structure. |
 | The block shown contains a nut. If you turn the screw, the bar will move. A bracket is placed between the lever and the bar. Steel hinges are installed at its ends. They allow you to adjust the dimensions of all parts of the elevator. |
 | Another important element. The head of the bolt is located in it. It rests on a bearing. Therefore, it can be rotated in any direction without much effort. |
 | The main support leg will be cut from 20 mm plywood. |
 | So that the stand does not move in any direction during operation, it is reinforced with additional kerchiefs. The result is a rocket-like product. It only remains to assemble a similar device. |
 | "Raketa" will be installed on one side of the existing window. |
 | For the manufacture of staples, plywood with a thickness of 20 and 10 mm is used. 10mm plywood outer plates are screwed to the arm. Previously, the planes of the joint are coated with PVA glue. |
 | The bearing housing will be installed on the back of the window. |
 | Before assembling, the surface of the "rocket" support is coated with glue. |
 | The support legs are screwed in with a long self-tapping screw (75 mm). |
 | On the reverse side of the tabletop, holes are drilled for additional fasteners. Such strengthening is justified, the resistance of the milling cutter springs reaches up to 200 N (20 kg). |
 | 4 more self-tapping screws are screwed in, the length of which is 60 mm. Attention! When installing self-tapping screws from the front side, the holes must be countersunk. |
 | The block is drilled through. A drill Ø 10 mm is used. |
 | Here you will need to install a hammer nut. To prevent sharp edges from damaging the block itself, holes Ø 2.5 mm are drilled to a depth of 1.5 mm. |
 | The nut is pressed into place. To do this, a block with a nut is placed between the jaws of the vice and squeezed until the nut is finally seated in place. |
 | The part gets the desired look. The nut is firmly fixed to the block. The strength is sufficient for the normal operation of this element of the elevator structure. |
 | To install the head of the bolt, a hole with a diameter of 20 mm must be drilled. Here, in the future, the socket head will be used, therefore, the hole is being prepared with a certain margin. The drilling depth is 16 mm (chipboard 19 mm thick). Important! Bottom mounted plywood 20 mm thick. Therefore, the strength of the structure will not be compromised. |
 | After drilling a blind hole, a through hole is drilled. Its diameter is 8.5 mm. This is where the bearing and bolt will be installed. |
 | A nut is placed between the head of the bolt and the bearing. A sealed bearing is used, which will not be able to get chips and dust. |
 | Turning the tabletop over, a long bolt (180 mm) is visible. It needs to be fixed so that it can rotate. |
 | A washer is installed, and then a nut with a fluoroplastic insert is tightened. The installed fluoroplastic will not allow it to unwind. Do not fit tightly, a gap of about 0.5 mm remains. It will allow the bolt to rotate and transmit force in any direction. |
 | There is a gap between the end of the bolt and the lever that needs to be filled. Need a bracket and overhead hinges. |
 | The usual hinges are not enough; additional planks will need to be installed. |
 | The length of these strips is selected. |
 | Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bar. Loops will be put on them. |
 | After putting on, the loop cannot be removed from the self-tapping screw on its own. In the hinges, the existing groove is already a hole, on which the hat from the hardware is put on. |
 | It remains to assemble the entire structure of the elevator. All structural elements mentioned earlier have been manufactured. |
 | By installing the table top in the machine window, you can check the functionality of the elevator structure. A screwdriver is used, in which the socket head is set at 13. By starting the rotation in one direction or the other, the cutter moves up or down. Using a measuring tool, you can set the depth of milling grooves on parts. |
Manufacturing of devices for a parallel stop
 | An additional element is cut out of the bar. It will serve as a guide for milling. |
 | On the drilling machine, half of the circle is selected. The cutter will "hide" in it. |
 | The attached fragment is ready. It remains only to fix it to the parallel stop. |
 | The easiest way is to use pistol-type clamps. They fix the attached element. You can mill grooves or quarters. |
 | The milling tabletop is ready for the machine. It expands the functionality of the basic machine. |
This removable table top can be installed in any suitable cabinet. Then you get a separate milling machine, made at home. This device is characterized by the greatest simplicity and reliability.
The designs of tables for a router may be different. Different craftsmen equip their devices with different types of elevators. Even stops, depending on the needs, can have their own design. You just need to choose the one that will be convenient for performing a certain job.
Some professionals use different types of stops. The choice is determined by the type of cutters used and the purpose of future parts.
The video shows an option for self-manufacturing of a table to accommodate a router.
Craftsmen of the past made decorative woodworking by hand. We still admire their creations. But it took years to learn fine woodwork, and not every apprentice managed to create a masterpiece for the title of master. And raise money for tools and accessories for the highest craftsmanship. What is still relevant today: sets of shaped planers, pieces of iron for them and cutters for manual finishing of the product will cost more than a good manual milling machine for wood. Which, moreover, will shorten the learning process and increase labor productivity at times. If you make a do-it-yourself milling table for it, then the quality of the products will become much more stable. True, the functionality of the router will be reduced (the number of types of working operations), but the remaining sections will not be so difficult to finish with the same router without a table or even manually, without risking "screwing up" the entire workpiece. This material will be about the essential points of self-production of a milling table.
Note: a masterpiece was originally a technical term for trial work, which must be done independently by an apprentice who claims to be a master. Since in the old workshops the corporate spirit and nepotism dominated everything and everyone, an apprentice who came to make his way to the master had to do something really outstanding, even exceptional. Hence the use of the word "masterpiece" for a creation created on a creative take-off came from.
Table or machine?
However, hand router tools are not cheap. It seems that there is no fundamental difference in the design of it and the milling head of a vertical milling machine. A motor suitable in power and speed for a home-made milling machine may be waiting in the closet for some use. So what is better to do for milling woodwork: the entire machine from scrap materials, or buy a manual router and a table for it?
Note: factory-made tables for hand-held milling machines are sold in the same way as drill stands converting them into a drill or lathe.
It's about vibrations. The tremor of the machine with the workpiece is the worst enemy of cutting materials. In milling work, the influence of vibration on the machining quality is especially strong. If a drill or cutter (except for a chisel in a slotting machine) bites into the workpiece once and then moves more or less smoothly in the material, then the cutter hits the workpiece at least twice on each revolution. Shaped cutters with cutting edges curved in 3 planes reduce this drawback, but do not eliminate it at all - a cutter that does not hit the workpiece will not cut anything from it.
A homemade milling machine with a trash motor shakes in general as much as it can. Vibration damping measures available in the home workshop provide a quality of work that is more suitable for simple carpentry work. In hand-held milling machines for wood, vibration damping is already provided constructively. Installing the router in the table further reduces the "shaking", and the entire unit becomes suitable for fairly delicate joinery, incl. over the front parts of furniture, decorative details and other critical parts. So there is still a fundamental difference between a home-made milling machine and a table for an existing hand mill.
How the milling table works
The main differences between a milling table with a finished machine and a homemade machine for the same purpose are as follows:
- The table is made according to the structural scheme of a vertical milling machine with a bottom drive, while a home-made machine can be both vertical and horizontal. However, the latter does not give any tangible advantages over the vertical one at home.
- The milling table is quite simply supplied with our own hands with an elevator - a device for smooth and, possibly, operational adjustment of the cutter protrusion above the work table.
- The system of stops of the workpiece of the milling table can be improved in comparison with a home-made machine to increase the accuracy and cleanliness of processing.
- The table-mount milling machine is reversibly modified (see below) so that it can be removed for manual work.
How a simple milling table for woodworking works is shown in fig. Curbstone (bed) - any sufficiently strong and stable structure, because the main wigbroking is carried out, except with the milling cutter itself, with a base plate. Therefore, the curbstone in this case is actually not a bed, since is simply a supporting structure.
It is difficult to achieve high-quality processing of workpieces with a large width-to-height ratio on a simple table. A completely flat board on a similarly flat table suddenly goes in jerks for no reason, the cut turns out to be uneven, or even the workpiece is bitten by a cutter. The reason is longitudinal, i.e. propagating horizontally, elastic waves in the workpiece material. The comb vertical stop (see below) does not have time to absorb them, antinodes (foci) of vibrations appear on the workpiece, spoiling the whole thing.
The horizontal emphasis is intended for such a situation, see next. rice. It is always performed with a comb, because is mainly a vibration absorber. For the same purpose, a second vertical comb stop is added.
In fig. shows a table with 2-sided stops designed to feed the workpiece back and forth, see below. It is better to make one-sided stops for a home-made table for ordinary carpentry work (see below): they are technologically simpler and can be made from ordinary solid fine-grained wood (oak, beech, walnut). In any case, the most critical structural units of a homemade milling table are:
- Support (work table) and installation (mounting) plates;
- Stops - comb and deaf (simple);
- Milling machine lift.
Slabs
The base and mounting plate of the milling table are structurally identical to those of the same machine. An example of the construction of a base plate of a milling table made of 2 layers of 19 mm plywood is shown in the figure:
Its main drawback is its high cost: plywood requires birch (even better bakelite) grades of at least Ib. Meanwhile, having spent a little more time and labor on plywooding a multi-layer plywood "pie", and even better quality, can be made, as for a milling machine, from cheap 4-mm construction (II grade) or packaging (off-grade) plywood. The required wear resistance and strength are provided by impregnating the sheet before cutting with a water-polymer emulsion (a full-fledged substitute - construction primer EKO Primer), and vibration-absorbing properties - by layers of PVA glue. Dried mounting (reinforced) PVA gives a viscous elastic film that perfectly dampens vibrations, but even without that, the height space in which the elastic wave can gain strength is reduced by five times.
Note: plywood is glued from veneer sheets with cheap casein or similar synthetic glue, which has only a small degree of vibration-damping properties (its layer is hard and brittle). Plywood, glued with PVA, would be completely unprofitable.
The device of the mounting unit with increased vibration damping for the milling table is shown in Fig. and is exactly the same as for a milling machine ().
And the procedure for making the base plate is the same: a plywood sheet is impregnated 2-3 times on each side, then cut out (immediately with cutouts for a router). It is better to make a window for a car round or with rounded corners. The package is glued according to the instructions for the glue and dried for at least 2 days under a dispersed pressure of approx. 100 kg / sq. m plates; very good load - stacks of books and / or magazine binders.
Milling plate and its revision
The mounting (mounting) plate of the router is made of fibrous-layered vibration-absorbing thermosetting plastic: textolite, fiberglass. Somewhat worse vibration-absorbing massive thermoplastic materials - hardboard, etc. Thermoplastic plastic from heating during operation can lead to the machine loosing accuracy. Massive (ebonite, bakelite) or laminated thermosetting plastics (getinax) are unsuitable - they very soon delaminate and crack from vibrations and heating.
How the machine is being finalized for installation in a milling table is shown in the figure:
The latch of the standard sliding work table (shown by the arrow on the left in the figure) is released (wrung out). Then the standard table is removed and placed on the compression springs (center) with a total force of approx. 1.5 machine weight. The base of the standard table (shown by the arrow in the center) is removed, and a mounting plate is attached instead (on the right in the figure). Rebuilding the machine for manual use is done in reverse order.
Stops
Since a home-made milling table is able to provide better accuracy and cleanliness of processing than the same machine, it is desirable to modify the stop system for it. Stops, as in the machine or in fig. above with the image of a simple table, suitable for the manufacture of non-facade (decorative) parts, because a straight L-shaped blind stop still strongly gives off vibrations back to the workpiece and makes it difficult to feed it (a workpiece from ordinary commercial wood can jam).
Drawings of oblique comb and blind vertical stops for a homemade milling table for wood are shown in Fig. Structurally, the comb stop for the table is somewhat different from that for the machine (all teeth are the same), because the whole unit is shaking less violently. Maple is one of the best vibration dampers, but seasoned, without defects, knots, twigs and stitches, business maple wood is an expensive and scarce material. It will be completely replaced by oak, beech, hornbeam, walnut.
Note: An even better vibration damper is elm wood. But the defect-free aged business elm is practically absent in the general sale, because everything goes to lasts for sewing expensive leather shoes and critical machine parts.
Comb and blind stops are installed in pairs (blind first along the workpiece), see the inset in the center in Fig. They are fixed with a locking block (stopper), highlighted in red in Fig. on right. However, it is still wrong to put the comb with the “wood grouse” before the cutter along the workpiece while feeding it, as shown in the same place: the main "shake" occurs behind the cutter. But it is not forbidden to put 2 pairs of wood grouse comb, before and after the cutter, and it is useful for processing accuracy.
Back and forth emphasis
Billets made of homogeneous materials of high quality (MDF, postforming for kitchen worktops, selected fine-grained wood) are often milled in a round-trip way: the part is pushed onto the milling cutter and immediately, without turning off the milling cutter, is pulled back. The combination of down-milling and up-milling in one pass (see the article on the milling machine) gives the cleanest surface.
Note: parts milled back and forth are quite suitable for veneering and lamination.
However, it is impossible to put a pair of oblique dies turned in opposite directions for round-trip milling: the workpiece will jam on the incoming ridge. For round-trip milling, the workpiece is supported by pairs of vertical and horizontal straight combs (see the figure above): their combs (and grooves between them) are perpendicular to the working surface, and the working parts of the combs are trapezoidal in plan with bevels 60 degrees from the perpendicular (30 degrees from the comb sole). Unfortunately, the choice of materials for self-production of straight 2-sided dies is limited: flawless seasoned business maple, elm, teak.
Note: on sale there are straight combs for wood cutters, cast from polypropylene. I don’t know how they work, I haven’t tried it.
Elevator
The simplest designs of lifts for a milling table for wood are rigid cam (pos. A in the figure) and wedge (pos. B).
Their common advantage is the ability to make the base plate hinged for easy access to the router. But a common huge drawback is instability, the machine slides down from vibration. In fact, after a 1.5-2 m cut, the elevator has to be reinstalled. A cam elevator, in addition, is not much better than a self-made milling machine's elevator adjustable with rubber washers in terms of ease of use.
The optimal design of the milling machine lift in the table is screw, see next. rice. If the lower flange nut is additionally secured with a locknut (or a self-tightening flange nut is installed), the cutter stem is held firmly. And its really operational adjustment is possible, literally on the go of the workpiece.
Precise mini table
For art woodworking and / or facade carpentry, an irreplaceable thing is a milling and copying machine. It is possible to make it with your own hands, but it is difficult, and it makes sense to purchase a factory one only if there is a stable flow of orders for work of this kind and solid skills in their implementation.
However, straight milled shaped grooves in front furniture parts can also have an excellent aesthetic effect. Direct milling is widely used in the manufacture of furniture and decorative woodwork in any style, see fig. It is independently performed with low-power manual milling machines for wood of increased accuracy (on the right in the figure); installing a mini-milling cutter in the table increases the quality of work and labor productivity in the same way as the "large" one.
Drawings of a mini milling table for wood for a domestic manual milling machine are given on the next page. rice. Its distinctive features are a cam-shaped side clamp of the workpiece and a vertical comb with wide teeth. The decision for working with high-quality materials is quite justified: small, frequent combs themselves "play out" a little for the workpiece, which is minimized in this design.
And what about the hood?
When milling wood, many times more sawdust, shavings and wood dust are formed than when sawing operations. The dust spoils the precision of processing on the table and the health of its operator in the same way as a dusty machine. Therefore, for a milling table, a dust collector, a dust extraction and a dust collector are also needed; their design is the same for both the table and the machine, see acc. article.
