Which pipe for the stove is better. How to make a chimney for a stove with your own hands

To do correct device chimney, you must have a detailed diagram of this structure. Improper laying can provoke the accumulation of harmful toxic substances indoors. Such work should be carried out by a highly qualified specialist who knows everything about such a structure.

The correct level of flue draft ensures that carbon monoxide is quickly removed from the living space. Such a structure is a kind of pencil case that removes caustic combustion products.

Several models of chimneys are presented in specialized departments. They differ in their structure and the material from which they are made. Our guide provides detailed instructions how to make a chimney for a stove with your own hands. Recommendations from experienced professionals greatly facilitate the task.

Types of chimneys

Drainage shafts through which the withdrawal is carried out harmful gases, saturated with combustion products, are required not only for standard stoves, but also for fireplaces and gas boilers. To date, several types of chimneys are known. These include:

Direct streaming. This variety is considered a popular building, which is most often used for arranging living space. The only drawback of such a chimney is the rapid heat loss. In addition to toxic substances, most of the thermal energy escapes here.

Straight flow pipes with lintels. They retain most of the heat in the combustion process of materials. This design is quite often used in baths. Such a chimney long burning oven requires constant cleaning. Ash quickly settles on the surface of the jumpers, thereby preventing the rapid removal of toxic substances.

Straight flow chimney with labyrinth. This variety has a high heat dissipation. carbon monoxide pass through numerous passages. They quickly heat the walls of the chimney, thereby contributing to the maximum heating of the room.

Kolpakovy. It is used for the Russian stove. Hot smoke quickly rises up, where it gradually begins to cool. After that, it descends along the arch of the chimney masonry. The only drawback of such a structure is its uneven heating.

Modular. They are made from metal alloy. They are designed for gas-fired heating systems. Metal chimneys for furnaces are able to cope with the acidic compounds of methane combustion products. Brickwork in this case will quickly collapse.

Chimney device

The effective operation of the chimney shaft directly depends on several criteria. For example, sections, heights and the material from which it is made.

What should be considered in the process of a device of this design:

Outlet size heating device should be slightly smaller than the cross section of the chimney channel. If the diameter is slightly larger, then you will need an additional adapter that will regulate the process of smoke removal.

Particular attention must be paid to the horizontal part of the structure. Warm air moves up quickly. Soot and combustion products quickly begin to settle here.

Thrust control will help shorten this process by reducing the length of these segments. They must be less than one meter. In addition, it is necessary to provide a condensate collector and doors for cleaning the chimney.

For a sauna stove, it is best to use a vertical chimney. In some cases, a metal pipe can be laid. During the fixing process, it is recommended to observe correct angle tilt. It should be no more than 2 meters.

Stages of creating a vertical chimney

To create a chimney shaft, you need to prepare the following tools and materials. For this you will need:

brick of the first grade;
building composition;
level;
rope for guide;
stairs;
construction diagram.

Creating a chimney includes the following steps:

The first layer is laid out of five bricks. The laying should be neat and even. The subsequent rows are made in the same way.

When the required height is obtained, you can proceed to the construction of the edge. Each subsequent row lays down 35 ml more. The result is a stepped structure in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

After the pipe has reached the level of the attic, it begins to be laid according to the initial stage. The hole diameter should gradually decrease.

The final stage will be the removal of the brick shaft beyond the roof. The photo of the chimney for the furnace shows the entire workflow.

Photo of chimneys for the furnace

Chimney device, knowledge of the main advantages and disadvantages different types chimney and materials for the construction of pipes - this knowledge is necessary for novice home craftsmen before installing the stove in the house. The installation site and the set of tools and materials for the work depend on the choice of design and materials.

Collapse

Furnace chimney device

Depending on the material for the manufacture of the chimney, you will need to prepare and make different individual parts. General - this is an air damper to adjust the amount of draft in the chimney and a protective visor at the top of the pipe.

It is necessary to protect the internal channel from water or snow. The rest of the details of different types of chimney are radically different. Let's analyze the main ones in more detail.

Brick chimney

Such chimneys are installed only for laying indoors, through the roof and floor slabs. It is not recommended to lay out brick structures in multi-storey buildings.

Diagram of a brick chimney for a furnace

Partitions on different floors can be displaced, you will have to perform horizontal layering, which is almost impossible to do on such structures. A brick chimney consists of several main parts:

oven neck. Is it square or rectangular design exits the furnace body and passes throughout the building. In the lower part, several grooves are made to clean the channels from debris and soot. A thin cavity is laid out above the furnace body for installing an air damper. With its help, the traction force (upstream air flow) necessary for normal operation furnaces and boilers;
at a certain distance from the floor slab, the bricklayer begins to lay out the pipe fluff. The internal size remains unchanged, and outside they begin to push the bricks to a third of the length of the brick. The outer dimension, at the widest point of the fluff, exceeds the inner minimum by 600-700 mm. On the 9th row, the neck of the pipe is laid out. This detail allows you to lower the temperature of the exhaust gases and serves as a kind of compensator for the entire structure. Fluff is laid out in front of each floor slab;
"Otter" - this part of the chimney is laid out before the pipe passes through the roof surface. For its masonry, 7 rows will be needed. Gradually increases by 6 outer size while maintaining the internal, by 7 the size is reduced to the main one and the neck of the pipe is placed;
The head is the last 2 rows of bricks that are exposed outside, increasing the outer size by 60-70 mm. this design prevents precipitation from entering the chimney, but to completely block the channel, it will be necessary to install a protective visor or cap.

Chimney made of sandwich pipes

For such a chimney, several parts are used:

Chimney outlet schemes

There are 2 main schemes for laying a chimney:

Schematic representation of the chimney output options:

Schemes of options for outputting a chimney

It makes no sense to describe them in detail - these are topics for separate articles, which can be read below:

Which device option to choose?

If you want to equip a chimney for a stove in an apartment on the 2nd or 3rd floor, the only solution to this problem is to lay pipes outside and lead them through the wall. In this embodiment, we do not have to perform possible horizontal segments that make it difficult to clean soot from pipelines and reduce traction.
For furnaces or boilers running on gas, we reduce the cross section of the inner plane. For solid propellant equipment, this size should be much larger.

Basic Rules:

The minimum chimney diameter for wood-burning stoves is 115 mm. Coaxial piping, carried out outside cope with their task. External pipelines, like internal ones, are covered under a layer of thermal insulation. But the best option for outdoor laying chimneys, this is the use of sandwich pipes.
The inner lining is used when installing a brick chimney or when equipping a private household. In this option, the laying is carried out through the floor slabs and the roof structure. To insulate a brick pipe in these places, they are covered with sheets of thermal insulation or special boxes are made, making an internal cavity for the passage of the pipe a little larger than its dimensions.
Installation of steel sandwich pipes is carried out using mounting couplings and fittings. All rules and recommendations for conducting chimneys are collected in SNiP 2.04.05 dated 91. This document indicates how to lay the chimney of a bathhouse, country or apartment buildings. All the necessary clearances, recommendations on the length and cross section of pipes are given here.

Which chimney is better, brick or metal?

No one can give you a definite answer to this question. The main thing is the height and size of the chimney. Its minimum size is from 5 m. If you make it short, there is a high risk of formation reverse thrust and exit of exhaust gases into the room.

Regardless of the material, if it is warmer outside than indoors, the draft will become weaker or even disappear when the outdoor part heats up more than the air in the house.

A brick or metal chimney and the level of draft in them are negatively affected even nearby standing trees or mountain slopes. The wind creates backwater, and traction can drop significantly.

Excessive air flow in the furnace will also not bring the furnace to normal operating conditions. Such a pressure can cause a strong heating of the furnace parts and their deformation. And the heat will simply be blown out of the furnace, it will not have time to heat the walls of the furnace.

Output

Chimney materials have no effect on performance heating system. But on brick pipes with rough surfaces, a layer of soot forms faster, and drops of condensate appear on the steel walls of poorly insulated pipelines.

Long breaks in work adversely affect the condition of the brick oven and do not have any effect on steel ones. The main thing in this matter is the quality of materials and the correctness of calculations and installation of chimneys.

←Previous article Next article →

We do not imagine homes without heating. Our concept of comfort unconditionally includes suitable temperature regime. In a private house central heating no, and the problem of heating each owner .

We welcome our regular reader and bring to his attention an article about chimneys for stoves - an absolutely necessary component of any heating system, whether it is a stove, a modern fireplace or a boiler with automatic fuel supply.

Chimney - a vertically located pipe that discharges hot flue gases of the fuel in the heating unit into the atmosphere to a height sufficient to create draft in the duct and disperse toxic combustion products away from windows and ventilation ducts.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of chimneys is based on the phenomenon of expansion of hot gases, a decrease in their density and, accordingly, the rise of lighter gases upwards.

Flue gases rise up, a vacuum is formed in the furnace and more cold air- there is a phenomenon of traction.

How is the chimney

The main part of any chimney is a vertical pipe structure. Structurally different from modern prefabricated counterparts from ready-made modules factory made.

The traditional brick chimney includes the following elements: neck for connection with the furnace, riser with valves, slope, otter, neck (at the point of passage through the roof), headband, sometimes a metal cap.

Homemade chimneys made of metal or asbestos cement include pipes, caps, adapters for connecting to the furnace, and insulation.

Most modern views chimneys - ceramic and from. The ceramic structure consists of an external expanded clay concrete frame, an internal prefabricated ceramic pipe, and a layer of insulation between them. The ceramic and sandwich structures themselves include the following blocks: straight, for collecting condensate, tees, cleaning modules, transition elements for connecting heating units. An integral part of a modern chimney is a deflector.

Types and designs

The design features of the chimney primarily depend on the material from which they are made.

According to the material of the chimneys are:

brick;
reinforced concrete (usually industrial);
asbestos-cement;
of steel;
ceramic;
three-layer metal - two layers of steel with a heater from mineral wool between them.

By design, chimneys are:

indigenous - the design has its own foundation;
wall, built into the bearing walls of the building;
mounted - light pipes are mounted on a vertically located outlet pipe of a boiler or fireplace (and a potbelly stove);
often lightweight structures are simply suspended from the supporting structures of the building;
coaxial - arranged according to the "pipe in pipe" principle. The most common example is the horizontal gas outlets of gas heating boilers. Used in devices with closed camera combustion and provide maximum safety for residents. Save fuel consumption. Recently appeared vertical structures Shidel systems that take air for combustion on the roof of the house (just below the head).

Which is better to choose

The choice of a chimney largely depends on the parameters of the installed heating unit (design, temperature, type of fuel used), the degree of readiness of the house (we modernize old house with stove and wall chimney, the house is only "in the project" or already installed bearing structures, or there is already a finish); heated volumes.

Peculiarities various types chimneys are shown in the table:

Table 1

Name	Advantages	Flaws
brick	Durable and high temperature resistant construction brickwork, durability - depending on the material of the liner.	Difficult installation requiring highly qualified masons; heavy weight, the need for a foundation; long installation time, the need to replace the insert approximately every 10 years. When working with modern boilers and fireplaces, brick without an insert can collapse in just 10 years. Wall structures can only be mounted during the construction of the house.
Ceramic	Service life up to 50 years, smooth inner surface, high installation speed; high acid resistance, good thermal insulation; withstand temperatures up to 550°	Expensive option; installation requires some qualification, there is a need for a foundation; fragility
Steel single-layer (and asbestos-cement)	Smooth inner surface, light, inexpensive, fast installation, easy repair; resistance to corrosion and condensation	Requires insulation; when passing through structures made of combustible materials, large retreats are required; they burn out in 10-15 years, there are no components - during installation you will have to do all the elements yourself. Galvanized will last five years (or less)
Steel type "sandwich"	Long service life, smooth inner surface, light weight, fast easy installation, easy repair, high resistance to corrosion and condensation; can be installed / hung outside the building; good thermal insulation	Fairly expensive items.

It is not worth using flexible steel corrugation - they burn out very quickly.

Despite the price, it is worth choosing modern ceramic chimneys or "sandwich". If necessary, they can be mounted both in a finished house and outside the house, they are durable, quite easy to assemble, resistant to high temperatures, well insulated, and have a large assortment of ready-made factory elements.

If you want to use an old wall box from a regular heating furnace- it is necessary to insert a stainless steel insert and insulate. But perhaps you should choose a sandwich - less hassle.

Do it yourself or order

You can do it yourself some elements for the installation of single-layer pipes or lay out a brick structure (if you have the skills of a qualified bricklayer).

But the installation of prefabricated structures - this will help save a considerable amount from the family budget. You will have to pay a lot for the services of a qualified team - the amount is comparable to the cost of materials. There is a risk of running into unskilled workers.

When deciding whether to do the work yourself, you need to carefully analyze your capabilities:

how accessible is the roof;
Do you have friends or relatives who can help?
do you have a fear of heights;
What are your qualifications in performing repair work.

Building regulations

The arrangement of chimneys is determined by the provisions of SNiP 41-01-2003.

The design of the chimney must meet the following regulatory requirements:

the minimum height must be at least 5,000 mm or grate;
when located on a roof slope at a distance of less than 1.5 m to the ridge - the pipe must be 500 mm higher than the ridge;
when located on a roof slope at a distance of 1.5-3 m to the ridge - the pipe must not be lower than the ridge;
when located on a roof slope at a distance of more than 3 m to the ridge, the angle between the horizontal and the line passing through the ridge and the top of the pipe should be no more than 10 °;
the head should rise above the flat roof to a height of at least 1,000 mm;

the maximum length of each horizontal and inclined sections should not exceed 1000 mm, the total length of their projections on the horizontal should not exceed 2000 mm. In the presence of oblique and horizontal sections, it is necessary to lengthen the pipe by the length of the horizontal projections. For ceramics, the presence of horizontal sections is not allowed.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

The distance from the surface of chimneys made of ceramic, insulated steel and asbestos-cement to combustible structures of the house must be at least 250 mm; for brick chimneys and sandwich pipe structures - at least 130 mm.

Need to protect building construction from combustible materials using cement or gypsum plaster on a grid with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

If the roof covering can burn (roofing material, shingles, ondulin), or leaves, fluff can accumulate on it - a mesh spark arrester should be installed on the head.

Remember that the quality of smoke removal depends on the life and health of your loved ones.

Traction force

Factors affecting traction force:

pipe height;
the state of the surface of the internal channel - the regularity of cleaning from soot, the roughness of the walls;
the presence of inclined or horizontal sections. The presence of horizontal and inclined sections is undesirable, since the lengthening of the chimney is undesirable - the gases will cool, the draft will decrease up to tipping over;
deflector installation;
quality of insulation;
air supply to the furnace.

Your safety depends on the traction force, therefore it is necessary to regularly check the presence of traction and take measures to clean the channel from soot, the pipe head from ice.

Making and installing a chimney with your own hands

What materials are better to make

The easiest to install are steel structures. Single layer steel products they require insulation and the manufacture of components - in general, work for pathological workaholics, and here we will not consider their installation.

Installing a chimney from a sandwich pipe is quite simple, the presence of a large number of various elements and components in stores allows you to assemble a device of any configuration.

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting work, determine the dimensions and draw a diagram or drawing - this will help to correctly calculate required amount materials and properly organize the work.

Size calculation

The height of the pipe is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP 41-01-2003, but should not be lower than 5 m from the grate. The diameter is taken equal to the diameter of the outlet heater.

Installation video

Watch our video - it will help you see all the intricacies of the assembly process.

Mounting Features

Installation starts from the stove or fireplace. The first starting element is mounted on the nozzle of the boiler or furnace. This element is not insulated for technological reasons (alt-free filler is melted and sintered into stone). All elements are designed in such a way that one of its ends has a smaller diameter and is inserted one into the other, as into a socket. One of the docking options is to pull out a little inner tube, insert into another inner tube. Press down. Then lower the outer pipe with insulation along it, press it down. Fasten the connection with a crimp collar, tighten it with a bolt and nut. All joints must be sealed with sealant.

Then a tee is mounted, modules with a cleaning hatch and a condensate trap are mounted from below. There are designs for installing the lower part of the chimney on the floor.

Then mount the rest of the structure. After a meter, the sandwich is attached to the wall with special brackets. An element with a cleaning hatch should be installed on each floor and in the attic.

It is advisable to connect the elements of the chimney "through condensate" - the pipes are mounted in such a way that the upper one is inserted into the lower one and the condensate cannot seep through the joints, but flows down the walls into the trap.

An element with a gate is mounted under the ceiling.

The passage of the pipe in the ceiling is covered with a galvanized sheet and filled with insulation. The distance to the structures must be at least 130 mm.

The most difficult stage in the installation is the passage of the roof. Mark the hole in the right place on the roof. Make a hole in the roof. A roof sheet is attached from the inside, a roof cutting is installed on the roof. It is selected depending on the angle of the roof. The cutting edges lead under a sheet of roofing material.

If necessary, install extensions. Install deflector.

Common errors and installation problems

The most serious mistake– lack of a condensate collector and elements with hatches for cleaning.

In places where structures pass through floors, it is strictly forbidden to install joints individual elements– Escaping hot smoke can cause a fire.

A very significant mistake is the absence of a deflector or at least a cap over the chimney.

Snow and rain should not get inside the pipe - they increase the formation of condensate, ice can block the cross section of the pipe.

Maintenance and cleaning

Any chimney requires regular cleaning of soot. This will avoid fires, reduce traction. Cleaning should be done twice a year.

There are two cleaning methods - mechanical and chemical.

In a chemical furnace they burn special means. They burn at a very high temperature and accelerate the wear of the inner walls of the chimney, so it is better to use mechanical cleaning methods for a sandwich.

Icicles and frost from condensate can freeze on the head - they block the section of the box and reduce draft, which increases the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning for residents.

It is necessary to choose pipes in which the thickness of the outer metal layer is 1 mm (and not 0.5 mm). It is very easy to check - for a product with a thin wall, the wall bends if you squeeze it with your hands.

When installing sandwich structures, it is necessary to use a special sealant for high temperature operation (automotive sealant with an operating temperature of 500 ° is not suitable).

If the pipe rises above the roof by more than one meter, it should be reinforced with stretch marks.

The technology of laying a brick chimney in itself is quite simple and understandable, since, unlike the brick oven itself, the pipe usually does not have internal channels that are complex in configuration. However, despite the relative simplicity of the design, one cannot but take into account the enormous importance of this department of the furnace, since the quality of the heating of the house and the safety of both the building itself and the people living in it directly depend on it. Therefore, in order for all the work to be crowned with success, it is necessary to approach it with the utmost care, based on the recommendations experienced craftsmen and on developed and tested design schemes.

When erecting a chimney, it should be remembered that the evenness of the inner walls of the channel is no less important than the aesthetics of the outer masonry. Not only the stability of the required draft in the furnace depends on this circumstance, but also the duration of operation of the chimney without cleaning, since the smoke rising through the pipe leaves on smooth walls, without protruding mortar and deep seams, a much smaller amount of fuel combustion waste, and the channel overgrows much slower.

What are brick chimneys?

Chimneys of brick ovens can have different types, depending on the place of their installation, the design of the furnace, and also on how many heaters will be connected to the pipe. So, there are three main types of chimney brick pipes: these are mounted, root and wall.

Wall-mounted chimneys . The most widely used constructions are packed pipes. They are good because they are compact and do not take up any additional space in the room at all, but are simply a vertical continuation of the furnace.

They are erected on top of the last row of bricks covering the furnace, around the left hole. Then the pipe is passed through the attic floor, attic, truss system and rise above the roof.

Indigenous chimneys . This type of pipe is installed in cases where it is planned to connect a metal stove to it, or several heating appliances located on one or even several floors.

In addition to metal, such a pipe can be connected and brick ovens. This type of chimney is especially convenient if it is necessary to build two stoves in the house in neighboring rooms. For example, a kitchen needs an oven with hob, and for the next room - only heating. In order not to lay out a separate pipe for each of them, a root chimney is built between the rooms, to which both heaters are connected. Not only two, but also three or four stoves located on different floors of the house can be connected to a pipe of this type. In any case, it is necessary to calculate the size of the internal chimney channel very accurately, otherwise normal draft may not be ensured when several devices are operating simultaneously. The answer to the question why may be different.

Wall chimneys line up near the main (external or internal) walls or are built into them. They can be used, just like the main ones, to connect several furnaces located on different floors of the building.

The convenience of this design lies in the fact that it is, as it were, outside the living quarters, without occupying their area. For example, on the ground floor of a house a fireplace can be built and connected to a wall chimney (there the pipe will be more similar to a wall-mounted one according to the principle of structure), and on the second floor a smoke outlet of a metal furnace is embedded (as in the version with a root requirement).

The disadvantages of this version of the chimney are the considerable cost of the project and the complexity of the work. Firstly, the construction of this structure will require much more building material. Secondly, the chimney, if it is partially on the street, requires serious insulation measures, otherwise winter period, with temperature changes, condensate will form in the internal channels, which will significantly reduce the efficiency of the heater. Therefore, if this chimney option is chosen, then it would be more prudent to sacrifice the area inside the premises and bring the pipe along inner wall at home.

Parameters of brick chimneys

The main sections of the brick chimney

A brick chimney is divided into departments that have an owl purpose and are named differently. These features must be immediately clarified so that in the future it will be easier to understand the description of the work on the construction of the pipe.

1 - Pipe head. Laying out this part of the chimney, the bricks are shifted to the outside to form a kind of “visor”, as if hanging over the lower sections, partially protecting the walls of the chimney from precipitation.

2 - The neck of the pipe is located immediately below the head and has the same perimeter over its entire height, without protrusions, extensions or narrowing.

3 - "Otter" has more complex scheme masonry, as it is assigned protective function. Firstly, the “otter” masonry, hanging over the gap formed at the junction of the roofing material and the pipe walls, closes it from the penetration of precipitation, and forms a space for the installation of a waterproofing material. Secondly, its expanded walls become a guarantee of safety - at the point of passage through roofing due to the increased thickness, the necessary level of thermal insulation is created.

4 - A metal or other sheet (apron), mounted in the lower part of the otter, forms a kind of ebb, which closes the junction of the brick wall of the pipe and the roofing material.

5 - "Fluffing" - this expanded part of the pipe, located in the area of \u200b\u200bits passage through the attic floor. The walls of the "fluff", like the "otter", are thicker than other flat sections of the chimney - this is necessary for fire safety, since the attic floor very often consists of flammable materials, and they cannot be allowed to overheat.

6 - Roofing structure.

7 - The riser is a straight section of the pipe, which has an even masonry along the entire height and is located in the attic space from the “fluff” to the “otter”.

8 - Attic floor.

9 - An umbrella cap is often fixed on top of the head, which will protect the internal chimney channel from water and debris entering it.

You may be interested in information about what is

The main function of the chimney is to effective elimination combustion products from the combustion chamber to the atmosphere. To do this, the chimney is connected to numerous channels located in the furnace structure, with which it must interact harmoniously. If the stove and chimney are built correctly, in accordance with the developed parameters, then during the operation of the heater inside the channels, good traction, which will contribute to the timely removal of smoke to the street. However, at the same time, this should not lead to the fact that the heat generated by it will fly out of the furnace literally “into the pipe”. In a word, everything needs a “golden mean”.

Cross section of the chimney channel

To select the correct parameters for the section of the chimney channel, it is necessary to take into account the power of the furnace, as well as the size of the combustion chamber. The flue ducts will remain clean longer if their inner walls are made smooth, without protrusions and sagging of the solution.

For this reason, during the laying of bricks, the excess masonry mortar it is necessary to clean not only from the outer, but also from the inner walls. Some owners of houses equipped with fireplaces or stoves also use another way to achieve the smoothness of the walls of the channel - a ceramic pipe called an inlay is installed inside the brick chimney.

The advantage of this design is not only that the inlay has absolutely smooth inner walls. It is round in cross section, that is, it has no corners, which means that the smoke flows will not encounter obstacles in their path and, at the same time, unnecessary turbulences and the “back draft” effect will not be created.

On the right of the illustration, the "ideal" movement of the flow of hot gases is shown, which are twisted into a regular spiral in a round pipe and do not meet resistance.

In addition, one must take into account the fact that chimneys with a large width, which are still installed in old houses, often have poor draft. This is due to the fact that the air heated in the furnace in a large space inside the pipe cools quickly, which leads to the formation of condensate, which contributes to a decrease in thrust, as well as smoke in the premises, and the channel quickly overgrows with soot. To heat a stove with such a chimney design, you will need to use too much fuel. Therefore, it would be most rational to fix them by dismantling the wide upper part of the chimney, then narrowing the shaft and installing a round or square with rounded corners, ceramic, metal or asbestos insert into it.

Now from form to linear parameters. The size of the internal section of the chimney channel is one of the most important characteristics, since the efficiency of the furnace directly depends on it. The correct ratio of the power of the heater and the dimensions of the pipe section must be observed. Another guideline for determining the correct size of the channel can be the opening of the blower door - in any case, the cross section of the pipe should not be less than the blower hole.

The cross section of the chimney shaft, relative to the size of the combustion chamber window, can be determined as follows. For fireplaces with an open firebox, the size of the chimney opening is on average 1:10. However, depending on the shape of the section and the height of the pipe, this indicator may vary in one direction or another. Approximate values of the cross-sectional area of the channel (in percent) are shown in the table below.

Ratiof/F in % (f is the cross-sectional area of the chimney channel;F is the area of the combustion chamber window)

Pipe height, m	Sectional shape of the inner channel of the chimney pipe
	ROUND	SQUARE	RECTANGULAR
5	11.2	12.4	13.2
6	10.5	11.6	12.3
7	10	11	11.7
8	9.5	10.5	11.2
9	9.1	10.1	10.6
10	8.7	9.7	10.2
11	8.9	9.4	9.8

It is clear that in addition to the size of the furnace window, it is also necessary to build on the reasonable height of the pipe - it will look absolutely ridiculous, for example, a huge 10-meter pipe on the roof of a small squat country house.

The calculation itself is easy. According to the table, based on the height of the pipe and the shape of its internal channel, the optimal f / F ratio is determined. Then, based on the area of the furnace window, it will not be difficult to determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe chimney channel. Well, then, using geometric formulas, it remains only to bring the resulting value to linear dimensions - the diameter for round pipe or the length of the sides for a rectangle.

This calculation algorithm is implemented in the calculator below.

"Dymar" is a part of the furnace, on which both the efficiency and overall efficiency of the furnace, as well as the safety of its use, largely depend.

Choosing a stove is a complex process that requires a certain level of knowledge. In this article, we will tell you how to properly approach this issue and make the right decision.

Purpose and design features

The chimney performs the function of removing the products of combustion of firewood (or any other fuel) during the burning of the fireplace. In addition to smoke, ash, soot and soot come out through the hole.

A properly made chimney provides maximum efficient work furnace and its safety.

The issue of arranging for a fireplace should be approached as seriously as possible, because the slightest flaws in its mechanism can significantly reduce the efficiency of the stove and accelerate its wear.

This is poor smoke removal, and as a result, smoke in the room in which the stove is located, excessive soot settling on the walls of the smoker (and therefore creating a blockage), and similar troubles.

When in question the fact that without a normal pipe the fireplace will not realize its potential to the maximum, we are talking about the fact that it is the smoker that provides draft to the fireplace.

This happens for the following reason: the temperature of the combustion products leaving the chimney is very high (sometimes reaching one hundred degrees), which creates natural draft due to the pressure difference between hot and cold air.

The traction force directly depends on the height and diameter of the furnace, as well as on the thickness of its walls: it should not be too thick or too thin.

It is necessary that the smoke does not have time to cool down during the journey through the chimney - in this case, the draft will weaken, and vice versa.

Types and differences

Structurally, there is a division into three main categories. Let's consider each separately.

Indigenous

Not the most popular option, as it takes up a lot of free space in the room. Root smoker is brick device, which has its own foundation and is installed next to the stove.

The application will be appropriate in buildings where several fireplaces are located in one place.

In this case, their smoke channels can be led to one smoker, or in houses built from wood, where it is impossible to make a smoke channel inside a load-bearing wall.

wall

These are chimneys that are built into bearing wall room near which the fireplace is located.

Their use is justified in brick houses, since they have a significant advantage (such mechanisms do not take up the free space of the building).

However, their arrangement is a rather difficult process, requiring design and implementation at the stage of building a house.

Shell-mounted

This is perhaps the most popular, due to its simplicity, option. A mounted chimney is, in fact, a continuation of the chimney of the fireplace itself.

For such chimneys, it is required to use stove insulation, but they are extremely easy to implement and do not require serious material costs.

Apart from design features chimneys, smokers can now be carried out with different materials, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The main types of materials used in the manufacture of smokers (chimneys):

from ferrous metal: along with the cheapest materials, which, due to its cheapness, is widespread, although they do not differ in particular durability and environmental friendliness.
brick - this is perhaps one of the most popular types of chimneys. It is reliable, durable, but rather difficult to implement, and should only be carried out by a competent stove-maker: since a lot of factors affect whether a brick chimney will effectively perform its functions - from the degree of hardening of the brick to the perfect accuracy of construction.
made of stainless steel: quite simple, but at the same time reliable and effective mechanisms. Stainless steel perfectly removes smoke and soot, as its surface is as smooth as possible. It is heat resistant and not afraid of water. by the most the best option is galvanized.
Ceramic: getting more and more popular in recent times. It's already complicated modular system, which is manufactured under industrial conditions, and in complete set, ready for installation, sold in stores.

Nuances of choice

The type of chimney or chimneys to be used is determined in each individual case depending on the structural characteristics of the building, the type and financial capabilities of the owner.

A pipe for a fireplace must be easy to install and meet all safety standards, because it is through the wrong design of the chimney or installation errors that most fires happen.

First of all, you need to determine the diameter.

There is one simple rule that must be strictly adhered to: the diameter should not be less than the diameter of the chimney channel of the fireplace itself, since the height directly affects the traction force, it is necessary to approach its calculation with great responsibility.

The optimal distance is considered to be at least 50 centimeters from the top to the place where it comes from the roof, if it is located on a flat roof.

If the roof is with a strong slope, and the smoker is brought out at a distance of less than 1.5 meters from the parapet or ridge, then it should rise 50 cm above its level.

If the chimney is in the range of 1.5-3 meters from the ridge to the parapet, its mouth should be at the level of the top point of the roof. This is necessary so that the roof does not interfere with the free removal of smoke by air currents.

At the same time, the total height of the structure, from the exit to its upper point, must be at least 5 meters.

Installation nuances

We will talk about installing a cap-on tube with a spark arrester, since it is this option in ordinary houses occurs most frequently.

Installing a stainless steel home appliance (a metal tube for a stove, as already mentioned, is very popular), is a fairly simple process that can be done by anyone with their own hands.

Unlike indigenous, and even more so wall pipes, they must be installed by specialists.

When installing a packed pipe, the following principles should be followed:

The extension pipe for the stove for the house must be at least a two-section design, because Bottom part a metal structure, due to the strength of the heat from the firebox, can “burn out”, and over time it will become necessary to replace it.
It is very important to pay attention to such a moment as the insulation of the tube in the ceiling. In the place where the device passes through the roof, it is necessary to install a layer of fireproof insulation, the presence of which minimizes the risk of fire due to the contact of the hot surface with other surfaces. For this reason, the passage of the stove through the ceiling is required to be insulated without fail.

Thermal insulation for devices or, in other words, thermal insulation of a chimney made of stainless steel or metal is a matter of high relevance.

Due to the thin wall, these products may not provide the necessary thermal insulation properties, which will lead to moisture condensation on its wall, and further deterioration of traction and destruction of the tube itself.

The best option for warming a house is Izovol basalt wool, which wraps pipes for furnaces. This is a non-combustible material that has sufficient flexibility and frost resistance, and at the same time it is environmentally friendly.

Along the perimeter, pipes for furnaces are wrapped with basalt wool, which are reinforced with wire (where the spark arrestor is located).

This operation is repeated until the entire structure is insulated, preferably up to the upper section on which the spark arrester is located.

Installation goes through the following steps:

The first knee is put on the air duct.
The second knee is put on the first.
A refractory strut is made. The correct cutting on the ceiling is made of two layers: 1 - stainless steel sheet, 2 - galvanized box, and all this is fixed with a clamp.
The third knee is first introduced into the attic, through a hole in the ceiling, and then connected to the second section (where the spark arrestor is).
The deflector for the smoker and the spark arrester is put on its upper part. This part of the design serves to enhance traction. Basically, in the industrial production of the deflector, it is connected into one structure.
The pipe on the roof can also end in a head (although sometimes there is a spark arrester) that will protect it from rain.

Installation nuances (video)

Approximate rates

Prices for chimneys (as well as for insulation for them) depend on their size and material. In addition, of course, there is a spread in the price level from manufacturer to manufacturer, but we can talk about the following amounts:

the price of a pipe heater for a stove with a diameter of 200 mm is about $ 18 per 1 m;
the price for a heater of stainless steel devices with one contour, 0.5 mm thick and 200 mm in diameter - from 10 to 13 dollars per meter;
the price of a spark arrester is from $10.

You can buy a metal stove pipe at any major building materials store.

The price of brick pipes depends on the cost of building material and the work of the stove. So, a brick pipe for a metal furnace will cost you about $ 25-30 per linear meter.