How to install heating radiators in a private house. Installation of heating batteries: do-it-yourself technology for the correct installation of radiators

apartment owners and country houses v Lately prefer to do the installation of heating devices on their own. This is due to cost savings on those types of work that are easy to perform. It is advisable to replace radiators with the heating system turned off. Battery installation instructions are discussed later in the article.

As a rule, heating devices are installed in places of maximum heat loss. We are talking about window openings, where even with the use of modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, a large amount of heat is lost.

In addition to power, it is also important correct location devices and competent calculation of their sizes. If there is no battery under the window opening, then the flow of cold air will “flow” along the wall and spread along the floor covering. If there is a heating device, it creates warm air will not let the cold sink down. At the same time, the effect of such protection will be noticeable if the radiator closes at least 70% of the window width.

In the case when the heating device will have dimensions less than the norm prescribed in SNiP, it will not be possible to ensure the creation of a comfortable temperature. Cool air from above will penetrate the floor, where cold spots form. In such a situation, the windows will constantly fog up, and on the walls in places where warm and cold air, condensation will form, dampness will occur.

Therefore, there is no need to look for batteries with maximum heat dissipation. Their acquisition and installation can only be justified in regions with cold winters. Heating devices are often installed in the north big size using the most powerful sections. In the central regions of our country, heat transfer of average coefficients is necessary. In the south of Russia, low batteries with a small center gap are used.

The basic rule for installing heaters is to cover most of the window.

Another area requiring special attention with a decrease in heat loss, it is Entrance door. In private houses, as well as in some apartments located on the ground floor, this problem is solved by arranging a thermal curtain near the door.

Heating radiators should be installed as close as possible to the opening in the wall for entry and exit, taking into account the layout and the possibility of piping in this area.

Rules for installing heating appliances

It is necessary to observe the linear dimensions and bindings to the wall, floor and window sill:

The above rules are generalized. Each manufacturer has its own requirements on how to properly install and operate a heating device. Therefore, before buying a product, be sure to carefully study all the recommendations.

Mounting methods depending on the type of wall

To reduce heat losses for heating the side structure for heating device in this place a foil or a foil screen with the functions of a heat insulator is attached. This simple method allows you to save 10-15% on heating. To increase heat transfer, this element must be placed at a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the radiator. The insulating material needs to be attached to the wall, not just attached to the battery.

Before starting work, you need to decide when you need to mount radiators. It depends on the design features devices. If they are connected from the side, then they can first be fixed to the wall, then proceed with the installation of pipes. Using heaters with bottom connection, it is recommended to install them only after all piping work has been completed.

Installation procedure

When installing heating devices with your own hands, you need to do everything correctly, taking into account every little thing.

Professionals recommend using at least three reliable mounts when placing radiators, two of which are located at the top and one at the bottom. Sectional batteries of any type are hung on the anchor by the upper collector. That is, the upper fasteners withstand the main load, and the lower one is used for fixation.

When installing heating devices, it is necessary to follow a certain sequence of actions:

The technology for installing heating radiators is described here in as much detail as possible. To perform these works independently, it is necessary to consider in more detail some points.

Installing a thermostat

The thermostat for mounting on the radiator has threaded connection. When installing this device, it is necessary to ensure that the arrow on the body points in the direction of the movement of the coolant, which must be supplied through the thermostat.

A device designed to maintain the required temperature regime air, is installed in a horizontal position, since it depends on it right job. The device determines the temperature in the room and, depending on its value, regulates the locking mechanism.

The thermostat must be installed at least 80 cm from the floor, as the air below is colder. The device must be protected from sunlight, but must not be covered by furniture or curtains. The temperature controller must be installed so that the existing sensor is not affected by heat from the battery.

How to hang a radiator correctly

It is important that the heating devices are installed on a flat wall. For ease of work, it is necessary to find the middle of the opening and draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill. This line is needed to align the upper edge of the battery along it.

Brackets are installed taking into account this line, so that after hanging the radiator is located horizontally. But this provision is applicable for the circular movement of the coolant using pumping equipment.

In systems with circulation without the use of additional devices, it is necessary to create a slope of 1-1.5% in the direction towards the movement of the coolant.

Installing radiators on the wall

Batteries are hung on brackets or hooks that are attached to the side structure. The last elements are mounted in the same way as when installing anchors. A hole is drilled in the wall, corresponding to the diameter of the dowel, which is inserted into this hole. Next, the hook is mounted in a specialized fastener. The gap between the radiator and the wall can be reduced or increased by turning the metal part clockwise or counterclockwise.

Hooks for cast iron equipment are significantly thicker, which makes them able to withstand a greater load than fasteners for radiators made of aluminum.

During installation, it is important to remember that the top hooks are the most loaded, and the bottom one is necessary to fix the battery to the wall in the desired position. The lower mount is installed so that the collector is 1-1.5 cm higher, since the heater cannot be hung differently.

To install the brackets, you must first attach the radiator to the wall where it will be subsequently mounted. Further, the place of attachment on the vertical enclosing structure is determined and marked. In the next step, the bracket is fastened with special elements and screws screwed into the dowels, which are first inserted into the holes drilled in the wall. At the final stage, a heating device is hung on the mount.

Installation of radiators in the floor

If the design of the walls does not allow hanging radiators on them, the devices can be installed on flooring. Some devices are equipped with legs, but if for some reason they do not fit, it is recommended to use special brackets.

First, these parts are installed on the floor, then a radiator is hung on them. Legs are adjustable and non-adjustable. Depending on the material, fastening to the floor is done with nails, screws or self-tapping screws.

Results

Do-it-yourself installation of a radiator is not an easy task, but it is feasible, subject to the installation technology. At the same time, you need to understand that the installation of a heating system by a specialized organization allows you to get a guarantee for the work performed.

Installation and pressure testing of radiators is confirmed by special documents with the signatures of the performers and the seals of the organization. In the absence of the need to confirm warranty obligations, this work can be handled independently.

the main / Radiators / How to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands

Every house or apartment needs heating. Sometimes the main heating element becomes obsolete or deteriorates, you have to replace it with a new one. The choice of heating equipment must be approached responsibly. Basically, modern radiators are made of materials such as aluminum and steel. Bimetallic radiators incorporate both metals. How to install a bimetallic radiator with your own hands? It is not difficult, the main thing is to carefully follow all the instructions.

Advantages of bimetallic radiators

Bimetal radiators are in great demand. They successfully replace old cast iron batteries, have attractive design and are economical. True, they are more expensive than aluminum batteries.

Bimetal heating radiator

A feature of this type of battery is the presence of two different metals in their composition. The core is made of steel (copper), and the body is made of aluminum.

The advantages of bimetallic radiators include:

durability (can last more than 20 years);
endurance high pressure hot water(up to 30 atmospheres);
strength, resistance to various mechanical influences (shocks, scratches);
a small center distance, which manifests itself in a more efficient heating of the room:
resistance to corrosion;
high heat transfer;
stylish appearance.

Due to their advantages, bimetallic batteries are used both in private houses and in apartment buildings with central heating.

Vacation home

Some bimetallic radiators differ in price. In cheap models, when both metals are heated at the same time, noise occurs due to the fact that they expand differently. Dear models equipped with special polymer coated, which muffles this sound.

When buying a radiator, you will have to take into account the diameter of the supply pipes that will be connected to it.

Calculation of the number of required sections

In order for the radiator to fully warm up the room in which it is installed, and not to consume an excessive amount of thermal energy, it is necessary to calculate the optimal number of sections. To do this, you need to know the power of the device (it is indicated in its technical passport) and the area of \u200b\u200bthe room (calculated by multiplying the length by its width).

Calculation of the area of \u200b\u200bthe house

The power of each section of the battery is measured in watts. In accordance with building codes per 1 sq.m. you need 100 watts of heater power. This figure (100W) is divided by the power of one section of the battery. The resulting value is multiplied by the area of the room.

Here's what that formula looks like:

S*100/P
S is the area of the room;
P is the power of one section.

For example, the parameters of the room are 5x4 meters. Its area is 20 sq.m. Let one section of the battery have a power of 250 watts. It turns out: 20*100/250=8

This means that for heating this room you will need a battery with 8 sections. If the number is not whole (for example, 8.5), then you need to round it up to greater value(up to 9).

Battery of 8 sections

But in an apartment with uninsulated walls or ventilated window openings, the number of sections may not be enough for high-quality heating.

If more than 10 sections are needed to heat a room, then it is recommended not to combine them into one radiator, but to install two separate batteries. So the heating of the room will be more efficient.

Two batteries of 5 sections

Basic Rules for Installing Batteries

Before you learn how to properly install a bimetallic heating radiator, you need to learn about important conditions taken into account during installation. Regardless of the type of battery, in order to ensure normal heat exchange and air circulation in the room, the following rules should be followed:

The radiator must be placed under window opening in the center. Its upper grill should be located at a distance of 5-10 cm from the windowsill.
Between bottom between the heating element and the floor, it is necessary to keep a distance of 8-10 cm.
The distance between the radiator and the wall should be 2-5 cm.

Distance between wall and radiator

All this will have to be taken into account not only when installing the battery, but also when purchasing it, since they come in different heights.

If reflective insulation is installed on the wall behind the radiator, the battery mounts that come with the kit are likely to be short. Longer clamps will need to be purchased.

The battery is installed clearly in a horizontal position. It is recommended to install batteries in the same place in each room of the house (apartment).

Battery installation

Do-it-yourself installation of a bimetallic radiator

How to install a bimetallic radiator? Each battery comes with instructions from the manufacturer. It must be installed in accordance with these instructions.

Most reliable option- entrust the installation of the battery to a qualified specialist, checking that he has a license for this type of work. If you wish, you can install a radiator with your own hands. To do this, you need to follow step by step instructions.

Installation of the battery by the master

Before installation, the radiator is flushed. Should not be applied alkaline agents and abrasive materials. They can damage the surface of the pipe and lead to fluid leakage.

Preparatory stage

Battery installation should be carried out in the summer. Before starting work, make sure that there is no liquid in the pipes, or shut off its flow at the inlet and outlet of the heating system.

Battery installation in summer

First you need to dismantle the old radiator and prepare a place for installing a new one.

Be sure to check the completeness of the battery. Usually it is purchased in an already assembled state, but if this is not the case, then you need to assemble it yourself. The assembly takes place in accordance with the developer's instructions using a special radiator key.

Attention! In bimetallic radiators, both left-hand and right-hand threads are used.

Left hand and right hand thread

To prevent contamination of the valve designed to remove air, a filter is placed on the supply pipe.

Radiator installation

The battery is installed according to the following plan:

Marking on the wall of the place for mounting the brackets. They must be located between the sections of the battery.
Bracket fastenings. The mounting method depends on the material of the wall surface on which the battery is installed. On a brick or reinforced concrete wall, the brackets are fastened with dowels or fixed cement mortar, and on the surface of drywall - double-sided fastening.
Installing the radiator on fixed brackets. The correctness of its position is checked using building level.
Connecting the battery to the pipes.
Installation of a faucet or thermostatic valve.
Installation of an air valve (automatic is recommended, for example, a Mayevsky crane) in the upper part of the heater.

Very important! The air valve is installed without fail, since gas formation occurs inside the battery.

Air valve for battery

Upon completion of the installation, the system is turned on. All taps open smoothly. Opening the valves too abruptly can lead to hydrodynamic shock.

After opening the taps, you need to bleed the air through the Mayevsky tap. If you have to bleed air too often, then this may indicate a malfunction - a leak in the battery or heating boiler.

If you cover the heating radiator with any decorative element- a screen, screen, curtain or box, this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer. And if sensors are installed on the battery that automatically regulate the strength of heating, then they will respond to temperature changes not in the room itself, but under the screen.

Battery temperature sensors

When operating the heating system, the following rules must be followed:

Cleaning the battery twice a year - before and after heating season.
It is possible to completely drain the liquid from the heating system for a maximum of 14 days.
It is forbidden to abruptly open the shut-off valve.
Do not paint the hole from which air escapes.

Cleaning the battery

Knowing how to install a bimetallic heating radiator with your own hands, you can save on paying for the services of a specialist. The main thing is to follow the rules for installing batteries and the developer's instructions. If the battery is installed correctly, and during its operation, all the necessary conditions then it will last a long time.

Photo gallery (13 photos)

gopb.ru

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic heating radiators

Bimetallic radiators are rapidly gaining popularity among buyers. In terms of consumer characteristics, they are in many ways superior to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level with aluminum batteries. At the same time, aluminum radiators are not resistant to pressure drops in apartment buildings, and therefore for an apartment bimetallic devices are the best choice. Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic heating radiators is devoted to this article.

Bimetallic radiators are superior in performance to cast iron ones, and are approximately on the same level as aluminum batteries.

Bimetallic batteries have a number of important advantages:

long service life - about two decades;
high level of heat transfer;
resistance to hydrodynamic and mechanical influences;
attractive appearance;
corrosion resistance;
fast response in case of need to change the temperature, achieved through the use of channels with a small diameter.

The main disadvantage of bimetal is the high cost of devices.

Installing a radiator with your own hands is quite possible, but it will require an understanding of their design features, and preferably some practical skills.

A bimetal heater includes two main elements: an aluminum body and a steel (or copper) core.

There are two types of radiators:

fully bimetallic devices, where the core is a pipe for transferring a coolant that does not come into contact with the body material;
partially bimetallic devices, where the internal channels are equipped with plates of another metal.

Fully bimetallic batteries are more durable in relation to both mechanical and hydrodynamic influences, and, accordingly, are more durable.

Calculation of the number of sections

To calculate right amount sections, a number of factors must be taken into account. First of all, you need to know the battery capacity and the area of the room. There are also more complex calculation methods that take into account additional parameters (for example, non-standard ceiling heights, the number of windows and doors, the number external walls etc.).

Before installing the radiator, it is necessary to calculate the number of sections

The simplest formula for calculating the number of sections looks like this:

number of sections = room area x 100 / battery power.

standard height the ceiling is considered to be 2 meters 70 centimeters.

If there is a 12 meter room and radiators with 180 watt sections, then the formula will look like this:

12 x 100/180 = 6.66.

We round the resulting value up and as a result we find out that 7 sections are needed to heat the room.

Installing a bimetallic battery

Installation heating device do-it-yourself is carried out according to the instructions set out in the equipment passport.

Note! Installation of all components of the heating system is carried out in a plastic packaging of the equipment and is not removed until the installation is completed.

Building regulations

Installation of bimetallic devices must be carried out in accordance with the instructions building codes and rules (SNiP). Specific requirements are set out in section 3.05.01-85.

Requirements for the installation of bimetallic radiators

At installation work ah, you need to adhere to the following parameters:

The distance from the wall is 30-50 millimeters. If the unit is placed too close to the wall, the back of the battery will not properly distribute thermal energy.
Distance from the floor - 100 millimeters. If the radiator is installed lower, the heat exchange efficiency will decrease, and it will also be difficult to clean the floor under the radiator. Also, the radiator should not be placed too high, since in this case the temperatures at the top and bottom of the room are too differentiated.
The distance from the window sill is 80-120 millimeters. If the gap is made too small, the heat flow from the heating device will decrease.

Mounting order

Installation work bimetallic batteries must be done in a specific order:

mark places for mounting brackets on the wall;
we fix the brackets with dowels and cement mortar (if we are talking about reinforced concrete or brick wall) or double-sided fastening (if it is drywall partition);
we put the battery strictly horizontally on the already installed brackets;
we connect the radiator to the pipes, install a faucet or a thermostatic valve;
put the air valve at the top of the radiator.

Note! An air valve (preferably an automatic one) is required to be installed, since a small formation of gases occurs inside the device.

Before starting work, it is necessary to block the flow of coolant in the heating system at the inlet and outlet, or make sure that there is no liquid in the pipeline.
Even before starting the installation, you need to check the completeness of the radiator. It must be in the assembled state. If this is not the case, we take a radiator key and assemble the battery according to the manufacturer's instructions.

The design must be absolutely hermetic, so abrasive materials should not be used during assembly, as they destroy the material of the device.
When tightening fasteners, one should not forget that both left-handed and right-handed threads are used in bimetallic devices.
When connecting sanitary fittings, it is extremely important to choose the right material. Flax is usually used along with a thermally resistant sealant, FUM tape (fluoroplastic sealing material) or Tangit threads.
Before starting installation work, you need to carefully plan the connection scheme. Batteries can be connected diagonally, sideways or at the bottom. It is rational to install a bypass in a single-pipe system, that is, a pipe that will allow the system to function normally when the batteries are connected in series.
After the installation is completed, the system is turned on. This should be done by smoothly opening all the valves that previously blocked the path of the coolant. Too abrupt opening of the taps leads to clogging of the internal pipe section or hydrodynamic shocks.
Following the opening of the valves, it is necessary to release excess air through an air vent (for example, a Mayevsky tap).

Note! Batteries must not be covered with screens or placed in wall niches. This will drastically reduce the heat transfer of the equipment.

Properly installed bimetallic heating radiators are the key to their long and trouble-free operation. If you have any doubts about the ability to install them yourself, it is better to contact specialists.

klivent.biz

Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators

Renovation of the heating system in both a private house and a own apartment impossible without replacing the old cast iron batteries to more practical and modern devices.

One of good decisions Do-it-yourself installation of bimetallic radiators is considered. Their neat appearance will fit into any interior, and high heat transfer rates will bring a long-awaited atmosphere of comfort.

Scheme similar system heating is quite simple: the design consists of the radiators themselves and steel pipes adjacent to them, the joints of which are processed by spot welding.

Installation of bimetallic heating radiators does not require much destruction and is carried out quite carefully.

Basic rules for installing bimetallic radiators in the house

Any inept intervention in the heating system can adversely affect its further work and quality of space heating.

Therefore, before performing the main stages of work, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with a number of rules and adhere to them in the future.

What do you need to remember for a novice craftsman who decides to install a bimetallic radiator with his own hands?

The optimal distance from the floor to the bottom of the radiator is at least 60-70 mm and not more than 100-120 mm to maintain high level heat exchange;
The upper part of the radiator should be located at a distance of 50-60 mm from the edge of the window sill, in order to improve convection and facilitate the installation of equipment;
The radiator is recommended to be placed in the center of the window;
The equipment is installed in a strictly horizontal position;
Heating elements should be installed at the same level within each room.

The installed bimetallic radiator must not be processed metal coatings, since an additional layer of paint can disrupt the operation of the thermostat and reduce heat transfer performance by an average of 10%.

Also, do not use abrasives to clean the device.

How to install a bimetal radiator

Replacing old batteries with new bimetallic devices can be done on your own if you have sufficient knowledge for this work.

Installation of the heating system is carried out in several stages.

First, the master must dismantle the old heating radiators and carefully prepare working area: mark a place for installing a new heater and drilling holes for brackets.

The supporting part is fixed to the wall with dowels or sealed with cement mortar.

On this installation bimetal radiator not completed yet. The equipment is equipped with shutoff valves and a jumper, and then the pipelines of the heating system are mounted.

Each radiator must be equipped with an air valve. This part is necessary to remove excess air filling from the system.

In the process of filling the system with coolant, the stabilizing valve must be closed by 2/3 in order to prevent water hammer.

At the end of the installation of the bimetallic radiator, the first strength test of the structure is carried out. Do not forget to thoroughly clean the heatsink and remove any remaining debris and dirt from the body.

As the system is operated, it is also necessary to follow a number of rules and adhere to some recommendations:

The radiator is cleaned 1-2 times a year - at the beginning and during the heating season;
Complete draining of the coolant from the heating system is allowed only for a period of not more than 2 weeks;
It is forbidden to abruptly open shut-off valves;
It is not permissible to paint the air outlet hole;
It is advisable to equip some heating systems with special pumps or closed expansion tanks.

Qualitatively performed work on the installation of bimetallic radiators with your own hands and successfully carried out tests will be the key to a long and reliable operation the entire heating system.

A successful example of the installation of bimetallic radiators can be clearly seen in the video.

The creation and repair of a heating system, as a rule, involves the replacement or installation of heating devices. Fortunately, if you wish, you can carry out these works with your own hands, saving a lot of money. In what order should the installation of heating radiators be carried out, what is necessary to perform the work and what nuances can await during the repair - we will tell about this in our article.

What is needed for installation?

Installation of any heating radiator does not take place without the purchase of certain Supplies and use special devices. In this case, regardless of the type, the set the right materials always remains practically identical. The differences are only in small points, for example, larger plugs are used to install a cast iron battery, an automatic air vent is placed above the system, and the Mayevsky crane is not used at all.

Unlike cast iron products installation of bimetallic and aluminum radiators heating is the same.

Regarding accommodation panel products made of steel, the procedure for their installation has slight differences affecting the moment of hanging the battery. In this case, the set should include brackets, in addition, with reverse side must necessarily be metal temples, through which the heater is installed by the hooks of the brackets.

Shut-off valves

During the installation of a heating radiator, a pair of shut-off or ball valves is also needed. In the first case, they must be regulated. Products are placed at the output and input of each battery.

Ordinary ball valves are used for emergency repairs to turn off and dismantle the radiator, for example, at the time of the heating season. With this approach, even if something goes wrong during the repair, the system will still function without the part being repaired. Main advantage such a decision favors the low cost of ball valves. But on the other hand, you deprive yourself of the opportunity to adjust the heat transfer.

Shut-off control valves do almost the same, with one exception - they can also adjust the intensity of the coolant flow. Of course, here the issue price will be slightly higher, but this will make it possible to further change the heat transfer. In addition, outwardly, such devices look much better, especially in angular and straight versions. As a result, you get a more accurate strapping.

If necessary, near the ball valve on the coolant supply, you can install thermostat. It is a small element that makes it possible to adjust the heat transfer of the battery. However, if your heating radiator itself does not heat the room well, then you should not install a thermostat! Otherwise, the flow will decrease, and the battery will heat up even worse.

Today there are different kinds thermostats, ranging from electronic automatic to conventional mechanical. The latter, by the way, are used in homes more often than others.

Stub

When connected sideways, radiators usually have 4 outlets. One of them is covered with a plug, the second is equipped with a Mayevsky crane, the other two are diverted for the return and supply pipelines. Like the vast majority of modern heating batteries, the product is usually painted with white enamel, nicely complementing the interior of the house.

Automatic air vent or Mayevsky tap

These elements are small devices for venting air accumulated in the radiator. Installation is made on the collector, mandatory when using bimetallic and aluminum radiators. The dimensions of the device are significantly smaller than the diameter of the collector, on the basis of which an additional adapter may be required. However, Mayevsky cranes are usually supplied with adapters. The only thing that is required from the buyer is to know exactly the diameter of the collector.

As for automatic air vents, they are also installed on radiators. Compared to Mayevsky taps, they have larger dimensions, which is why they are made only of nickel and brass. Over time, air vents can become enameled, spoiling the appearance of the radiator. Based on this, the installation of these elements is carried out not so often.

Additional tools and materials

In addition to the listed elements, for the installation and hanging of heating radiators, you will definitely need brackets and hooks. Moreover, their number will directly depend on the dimensions of the battery itself:

If the dimensions of the product do not exceed 1.2 meters or the number of sections is not more than 8, then a pair of fixation points will be sufficient - one at the bottom and one at the top;

Each next 5-6 sections or 50 centimeters of length are required to use an additional retainer from below and from above.

To seal the joints, you will need fum tape, plumbing paste or linen winding.

At the same time, during work, dowels, a level and a drill with drills cannot be dispensed with. In addition, special equipment will be required for fixing fittings and pipes, although this largely depends on the type of pipes.

Location of the radiator

It is accepted that heating systems are placed under the window. This is necessary to cut off cold air from the window with warm air rising up. It is possible to avoid fogging of windows due to the dimensions of the heater, where the width indicator should not exceed 70-75 percent of the window width. During installation, the following parameters must be taken into account:

The distance from wall to wall should be from 2 to 5 centimeters;
In the center of the window opening, where the maximum tolerance should not exceed 2 cm;
The gap to the windowsill is 10-12 centimeters;
Between the floor and the radiator - 8-12 centimeters.

Battery Installation Procedure

Now let's talk about how to properly install heating radiators. Work will be much easier if the surface of the wall behind the battery is as even as possible.

The middle of the opening is outlined on the site, a horizontal line is drawn under the windowsill at a distance of 10-12 cm. The heater will be leveled along this line in the future. The brackets should be placed in such a way that the top matches the drawn line, in other words, remains strictly horizontal. This arrangement is acceptable for apartments and systems using forced circulation. Along the course of the coolant in systems with natural circulation a small slope is performed, equal to 1-1.5 percent. It is impossible to exceed these values, otherwise stagnation will form.

Floor installation

Usually, heating equipment is mounted on walls, but it happens that they are not able to withstand even lightweight aluminum products. This happens when sheathing walls with drywall or plaster with lightweight concrete. In these cases, floor installation is used.

Some types of steel and cast iron radiators initially equipped with legs, but they do not always suit the owners in terms of their characteristics and appearance.

Bimetal and aluminum products can also be installed on the floor. This provides for special brackets, which are fixed to the floor surface. Further mounted heating equipment, the lower collector is installed on the legs with an arc. The legs themselves come with a fixed leg, as well as a customizable one. Based on the material, fastening can occur with dowels or nails.

Fixing to the wall

Hooks are selected depending on the type of dowels. A hole is drilled in the wall right size where the plastic dowel is later installed. Next, the hook is screwed. The gap between the heater and the wall is corrected by screwing/unscrewing the hook.

During the installation of hooks, it should be borne in mind that most of the load will come to the top of the structure. In this case, the bottom is necessary only to hold the system in the desired position. Installation is made 1.5 centimeters below the lower manifold. If this is not done, then in the future the radiator simply will not be able to hang normally.

The brackets lean against the place where the installation will take place directly. For this purpose, the battery is first applied to the wall, after which the points of contact of the brackets are marked. Next, holes are drilled, dowels are hammered in and brackets are screwed in. Having placed all the fasteners, then the battery is hung.

Methods for tying heating radiators

Installation heating systems carried out with subsequent connection to the pipeline. There are 3 main connection methods:

Diagonal;
Unilateral;
Saddle.

When choosing radiators with a bottom connection, you don’t have to choose much. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer himself indicates the supply and installation instructions that must be observed! Otherwise, there will simply be no heat in the house. When choosing systems with side connection, there are noticeably more installation methods.

saddle connection

At hidden wiring pipes or bottom wiring installation by this method is considered less noticeable in the finished result and more convenient.

At the bottom single pipe wiring and saddle connection, as a rule, 2 methods are used - without and with a bypass. The taps can be mounted without a bypass, if desired, the radiator is dismantled with the placement of a temporary jumper between the taps.

Much less often this species connection is used for vertical wiring, for example, in risers in multi-storey buildings. This is explained increased heat loss which make up 12-15 percent.

Diagonal connection

In terms of heat transfer, the diagonal connection of heating radiators is considered the most optimal of all. Heat dissipation is considered the largest.

In apartments with vertical risers and a one-pipe system, the finished result is not the most attractive, although many tenants still put up with this because of the increased efficiency.

It is important to note that the bypass will again be needed with a one-pipe system!

One way connection

In an apartment, a one-way connection is most often used. It can be single-pipe, which is most likely, or two-pipe. Today, apartments are most often used metal pipes, and therefore it makes sense to disassemble the strapping method steel pipes. In addition to pipes of the required diameter, installation will also require a pair of tees, a ball valve and a drive.

Everything connects. Bypass is considered mandatory when using single pipe system. With it, it is possible to turn off the radiator without having to drain the systems. It is impossible to install a tap on the bypass, otherwise in this way you will block the movement of the coolant, greatly upsetting the neighbors. Yes, and it will be difficult to get rid of the fine in this case.

Threaded connections are sealed with linen winding or fum-tape. Next, paste is applied on top. It is not necessary to use a lot of winding when screwing the tap into the manifold. With a large amount of it, the formation of microcracks is not excluded, which in the future will lead to further damage. This point remains relevant for almost all heating products, not counting cast iron appliances.

The bypass can also be welded if you have the appropriate tools and skills.

With a two-pipe system, a bypass is not required. The return line is connected at the bottom, the supply is connected at the top.

This type of connection is rarely used when the pipes are located at the bottom, for example, when they are laid on the floor. This is due to not the most attractive view. Instead, a diagonal connection is more often used.

The inlet pipe, bypass is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. This connection method is used to install batteries in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system.

The main inlet pipe is installed at the top on one side of the radiator, and the outlet pipe is installed at the bottom, on the other side of the radiators. This method is used in our company to install radiators in apartments with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of the installation method of heating systems is that the battery provides maximum heat transfer.

This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a single-pipe heating system. The advantage of this method is that you can disguise pipes under the baseboard or hide them in a screed under the floor.

In two-pipe systems, there are two separate pipelines (supply and return), the supply pipe is connected to the upper branch pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one. This method is used to install radiators in apartments with a two-pipe heating system.

The conductive pipe must be connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the return pipe to the lower one on the other side. This method is used to install radiators in an apartment with a two-pipe heating system. The advantage of the method is the maximum heat transfer of the coolant.

The supply pipe is laid at the bottom of the return pipe. The coolant moves along the riser from the bottom up. The air from the system exits through Mayevsky's taps. Such a system for connecting radiators is suitable for heating low-rise buildings, private houses.

* Delivery of batteries is free of charge in case of purchase and installation of the battery in our company.