Proper assembly of the door frame. How to assemble a door frame with your own hands: step by step instructions, diagram and recommendations

Assembly and installation door frame- a monotonous occupation that requires precise calculations and actions. One small mistake can cost several days of work or even a purchase. new box. There are 2 main types of door frames: with and without a threshold. IN Lately the second option is more popular. In addition to the slats themselves, the boxes have several holes and fasteners. Most important - door hinges, performing a carrier function. Manufacturers have several options for boxes in terms of ready for quick assembly and installation. The assembly itself can be of 3 main types: baguette connection, spiked (ridge) and at a right angle. The second option in a broad sense implies a laborious and complex process, the rest leave the opportunity to do everything from start to finish with your own hands and without much difficulty. To understand how to collect door frame, you need to know the nuances of taking measurements, preparing parts and fixing them.

Components and equipment of the door frame

The door frame is 2 vertical beams installed on the sides of the opening. The elements are complemented by a top attached at the top of the passage and a threshold located at the bottom. The latter may be absent due to features floor covering or personal preference. In the configuration of the door frame there is an additional beam. Its task is to thicken the box, which is necessary in some situations.

Platbands are also attached to the door frame to decorate and hide flaws. They are mounted to the box with small nails with small caps, from the side of two adjacent rooms. The door frame is complemented by a slot for the lock tongue. It is made out with a reciprocal bar with the necessary holes. The frame package also includes hinges for installing the canvas and managing it. Slots are required in the frame of a double-leaf door for the lower and upper fixation of the leaves.

Material selection

It is selected taking into account the weight of the canvas. It is the door frame that will take the entire load - from the wings and its own mass. The margin of stability should be large. In the role of the material, wood, microwood fiber (MDF boards), metal are most often used. Preference is given mainly to the tree.

The material is popular due to such qualities as strength, naturalness, environmental friendliness, presentable appearance, ease of processing and processing. However, most of the nuances depend on the specific type of wood. Interior door frames are preferably made of pine. Ramu entrance doors needs to be made stronger. Common oak is suitable as a raw material. Door frame parts are also sold ready for assembly. After purchasing them, it remains only to install.

One of the most popular materials, common oak, also has other names:

petiolate;
summer;
English.

How to measure properly

Removing dimensions from the door frame is carried out in 2 ways: by removing the dimensions of the opening and the parameters of the door leaf. In the first case, 3 indicators are measured. The height and width of the passage are measured, the thickness of the wall in all three sides (right and left sidewalls, top). You also need to measure the diagonal, since this indicator acts as a control in the manufacture of the door frame. The thickness of the box depends on the walls. The second option involves taking dimensions from the door.

First of all, the sides are measured, and 5 cm are added to the results, and then the threshold, taking into account allowances. It must be remembered that between closed door and the canvas should leave a gap of 2-3 mm on both sides. The margin between the wall and the frame is ideally 1 cm on each side. This place will be filled with mounting foam. Thus, the door frame is made 2 cm narrower than the opening.

You will need tools such as a spatula, hammer, chisel, drill, saw, level, tape measure. A spatula is necessary for applying and leveling plaster when finishing a doorway. A hammer will be needed to fit the elements of the side of the frame and fix the trim. A chisel is used to remove material when cutting door hinges. A drill is needed for drilling holes: in the wall for the subsequent installation of the details of the opening design and in the canvas for fittings. The saw will be required for cutting parts of the box, platbands, extensions. In case of metal elements it is replaced by Bulgarian. The correctness of the position of elements horizontally or vertically is determined using the level. A tape measure is used as the main measuring device. In the process, you will also need a planer, square, screwdriver, pencil, construction knife.

Additional accessories:

wire cutters;
construction mixer;
grater for plaster;
jigsaw.

Box assembly options

There are few of them. Basically, only three are distinguished: using a tongue and groove connection, using baguette fastening (at an angle of 45 °) and connecting elements at a right (90 °) angle. In the middle price category, door frames are usually sold disassembled; like semi-finished products "do it yourself".

The box consists of 3 profiled wooden bars, covered with a film in the color of the door or veneer. Vertical bars usually have a length of 210-220 cm, horizontal - 100-110 cm. Goods from different manufacturers is different. For some of them, the boards are already cut at 45 °, taking into account the dimensions of the canvas and are completely ready for assembly. However, most door frames are sold unprepared.

Before proceeding with the assembly, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory measures:

All parts are placed on the floor, separately from each other.
The item is inspected for completeness.
Parts of the product and fittings are checked for defects. After installation, it will not be possible to return defective items.

First, two vertical bars are taken. If door leaf has a length of 2000 mm, and the finish coating is 30 mm high, then the length of the short side of the bar should sum up these indicators (2030 mm), and with a gap between finish coating and with a door, the final result will be 2040-2045 millimeters. On the inner surface of the bars, a mark is set for the desired length of the door. Then the excess is cut off at an angle.

By inside sawing angle should be 135°, which is the same as -45° on the outside. Two vertical boards must match in length. The same actions are performed with a short bar for horizontal placement. In this case, you will need to cut on both sides. You need to make sure the dimensions are correct. Before you directly perform the work, you need to carefully double-check the measurements.

The gap between the frame and the door should be 3 mm.

This option implies the presence of grooves in the vertical strips and spikes (ridges) in the horizontal. When folded, a hole for a self-tapping screw passes through these alternating elements. With sufficient experience this system thorn-groove can be made independently. This will require construction timber, MDF materials will not work. Regardless of whether semi-finished boards are purchased or made by hand, measurements are first made for processing to the required length.

The doorway is measured in several places. The result less is taken as the basis. You need to know the dimensions of the door itself and add gaps for its movement, 3 mm on both sides is enough, but you can bring the figure up to 5 mm. Notches are made at the top of the vertical slats for connection with a horizontal bar. The length of the latter is calculated taking into account these recesses. From the width of the entire box, subtract the difference in the thickness of the beam and the size of the groove.

Right angle

This is the easiest option for DIY assembly. This method involves removing uprights assembled frame of the porch of the box for the thickness of the vertical beam. The horizontal board is sawn off smaller, taking into account the thickness of the vertical boards. All prepared items should be placed on the floor. All parts of the frame are connected with self-tapping screws. Each side requires 2 pieces. The corner joints of the structure are connected with fasteners, 2 self-tapping screws are needed for each of the corners.

In frames sawn at 90 degrees, they are screwed in at the same right angle (at 45 ° - also at an angle of 45 °). To maintain the parallelism of the vertical racks and match the distance between them, the door should be placed on the incompletely assembled frame as it will stand, and the gaps should be fixed with wedges. Narrow holes are also created so that the wood does not crack. Hats of fasteners should be inserted into the material.

Step-by-step master class for installing a box without a threshold

You will need:

Apply marks.
Saw the blanks.
Mill the place for the hinges.
Assemble the door frame.
Mount it in the opening.

First of all, markings are drawn on the material for subsequent sawing. This is a very important step, because with a slight deviation, the workpieces can turn out to be unsuitable for use. In order for the door to serve the entire promised period, it is important to make the hinges correctly. If available manual frezer, then it is necessary to ideally set the width and depth of the sample on it, taking into account the parameters of the door hinge.

Before assembling the door frame, it is recommended to drill narrow holes in places for self-tapping screws. This technique significantly reduces the likelihood of violation of the integrity of the product. The parts of the box are assembled very carefully: even minimal deviations are unacceptable. At the same time, considerable efforts are required to ensure the reliability of the result. Install the door frame should be without haste. The process uses small elements to pre-fix the frame. Side gaps are filled with mounting foam.

Marking and sawing workpieces

The marking of the upper part of the door frame is done as follows: a bar is placed on top and marks are applied with a gap of 2-3 mm. For the template, you can use packaging cardboard. Its thickness is ideal for this. Markings can also be made with a pencil with a sharp end. As for the width of the door leaf, 6 mm is added to it. The boards of the door frame are cut on the machine according to the marks made. If they are veneered natural material, then there may be problems when washing down.

Natural veneer reaches a thickness of 1 mm, which means that when cutting, the board will stick with such a slope into the guide. With a pointed chisel in places washed down, a strip of wrapped veneer is removed. This ensures a perfect gash and a tight fit of the parts of the box. Next, a transverse blank and two sidewalls are sawn. The dimensions should be checked several times so that the box is not too short, if this happens, you will need to start all over again with new materials.

A correctly seated hole guarantees the correct positioning of the hinge on the door. Accordingly, the door will function properly and last no less than originally calculated. When drilling a loop, it is necessary to observe the required depth, maintain a distance from the horizontal and vertical edges, keep the drill perpendicular to the part, carefully work near rounded edges - they can easily get damaged.

Well, if there is a manual milling cutter. It is useful in many cases. On the tool, you will need to set the selection width, taking into account the corresponding loop parameter, as well as the depth, based on its thickness. The machine must be placed on the board of the box for milling the seat according to the marks. Roundness is removed from the corners with a chisel. Extreme care is essential during work. Do not allow cracking of blanks.

Before attaching the hinges, it is better to drill holes in these places with a diameter smaller than that of self-tapping screws. Thus, the likelihood of cracking the board will be reduced to a minimum. Now you can start assembling the box. Self-tapping screws must be inserted at right angles to the surface of the cuts. You will need to ensure that the technological grooves do not overlap with self-tapping screws. The elements must be precisely aligned, avoiding a common misalignment, since it is very difficult to correct such a defect.

To facilitate the connection at the very beginning, it is better to make narrow holes. When assembling, you need to carefully, but at the same time connect the parts as strongly as possible. Otherwise, the self-tapping screw, even before it starts to be screwed into the second element, may turn in the first - as a result, a gap will appear. Assembly is carried out on horizontal surface preferably on the floor.

Installing a box in a doorway

The frame is carefully placed in the opening and fastened for a while with pieces of cardboard or foam. Then the building level checks the correct position of the box from the side of the hinges. It is necessary to adjust the gaps and strengthen the structure with the help of wedges. They can be made from the remnants of the bars. The wedges are installed under the hinges. Another one is hammered into both upper corners.

The verticality of the frame is checked by a level. The box is mounted through the holes for the screws. When setting the sidewalls, the horizontality of the upper jumper is checked. If the floor is not perfectly flat, this must be taken into account in advance, and then everything will be installed correctly. During the installation of the box, for the stability of the elements, you will need to foam them a little. Shortly before this, it is necessary to clean the surfaces of dirt and dust and spray them with water, because the adhesion coefficient polyurethane foam to wet surfaces is much higher.

Features of installing a box with a threshold

Such a frame is required for bathrooms and toilets, and to a lesser extent for other rooms. The floor level in bathrooms is often higher than that of an adjacent room, so the installation of a box with a threshold is necessary, among other things, to protect parquet, linoleum or other flooring from water ingress. The fastening of the parts of the box with the threshold should be done with galvanized self-tapping screws. The gap for opening the door leaf is made additionally 4 mm larger than in the version without a bottom bar.

Threshold door frames are more durable, so they can be installed in places where there is a high level of vibration, such as near railway tracks. Installation of a frame with a bottom bar may be required in rooms with a high level of noise pollution. In addition to the soundproofing function, the threshold is able to act as a seal: to prevent the outflow of air and, as a result, heat loss.

Advantages of door frames with a threshold:

partially solve the problem with drafts;
protect from dust and smoke.

Due attention should be paid to the fastening of the door frame from the hanging side of the canvas. You should not increase the number of screws or dowels more than two, because the entire load will be transmitted through the hinges. No matter how many screws are fastened between them, they will not change anything. There will be only extra holes in the box, sometimes very noticeable. Mounting hardware can be hidden. They just need to be securely installed. Even the smallest wobbles must be immediately eliminated.

The fact is that the foam holds the lateral load well, but is practically useless in compression. It's not a problem if some of the fasteners are too long and come out a little on the other side. This will not affect the strength of the fastening. If no cracks have formed on the frame, then everything is in order, it remains only to mask the defect a little if it catches the eye. However, it may not be visible at all.

If the box is made of natural wood, then self-tapping screws are used with a large step, and if made of microwood fiber - with a small one.

Conclusion

To assemble the door frame, you must be able to use tools and take measurements. In this case great importance has precision. The material should be selected durable, for example, oak, despite the fact that it is denser and, accordingly, heavier than many other species. One of the key stages of work is sizing.

Saving on repairs is not always good, but if there is a person with hands and brains, he will cope with any task on his own. When buying a door block in the supplier's kit, the box is attached unassembled. In order to learn how to correctly and accurately assemble and install the door frame of an interior door with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the video, which is accompanied by instructions.

Not all apartments renovate from scratch. Often they simply replace the old door with a new one. In this case, it is necessary to dismantle - remove the old door block, and prepare the opening for the installation of a new one. Usually, the procedure is performed without preserving the old canvas and door frame, so it is carried out by rough breaking them out. But accuracy does not hurt if the owner does not want to re-finish the walls and corners of the doorway.

First, remove the door panel. The door can be removed from the card hinges by lifting it, and the universal ones must be unscrewed from one side.

Remove the cashing, screwed with self-tapping screws (unscrew with a screwdriver or screwdriver). If the cash is nailed, pry it off with a wide chisel and remove the nails with pliers.

Determine the location of its attachment to the opening. Usually fastened in the recess for loops.

Cut off all the mounting foam with which the door frame was sealed. Removed with a sharp knife.

Advice. When sealing the door frame with plaster, arm yourself with a chisel: lightly tap it with a hammer to remove all excess.

Remove the whole box from the doorway. Lay on a horizontal plane and disassemble it. If the preservation of the canvas and box is not necessary, then they can be removed with a hammer, an ax and a nail crowbar. There is no special algorithm of actions here - break with all your might. This way will bring a lot of pleasure.

Choosing an interior door block

When choosing a door block, it is worth considering:

Opening method. The most popular are swing doors. When there is not enough space, use sliding sliding doors. They are mounted in a special way and open along the guide rails, sliding into a special recess in the wall. Folding (in the form of an accordion) and stable (representing 2 halves of the canvas, swinging open in both directions) are much less commonly used. They are matched to the appropriate design of the room.

Noise isolation. This quality is affected not only by the canvas, but also by the frame of the interior door, as well as cashiers.

Canvas weight. This factor depends solely on the material from which the door is made. The heavier it is, the better the fittings should be.

Execution material. Doors are made from solid wood MDF boards and chipboard. Products made of solid wood are considered the highest quality, the downside is the weight of such a door.

Advice. When choosing an interior door block, consult the seller about its class fire safety. So, the door will protect you not only from noise, but also from fire.

Marking and measurements

Before assembling the door frame, it is necessary to make several accurate measurements and mark up the materials. The door block is installed after the floors are ready and the walls are finished.

Measurements are taken according to the height, width and thickness of the doorway. Indications should be indicated with an accuracy of 0.01 cm. If the measurement is inaccurate, a do-it-yourself door may not fit snugly, or creak when opened / closed.

Of course, there are certain standards for door frames:

kitchen - 60 x 200 cm;

living rooms - 70-80 x 200 cm;

bathroom - 60 x 190-195 cm.

But taking into account the old buildings, the violation of the geometry of the opening and the difference in the thickness of the walls, it is better to play it safe and measure everything again. This will guarantee correct operation door block as a whole.

To take measurements, you must have the following tools at hand:

yardstick;

pencil or marker;

square;

Go to measurement:

Measure the height and width of the opening. To determine the correct horizontal, the width is measured by the floor level.

Determine the dimensions of the door leaf. To do this, it is necessary to subtract the width of the door frame beam, multiplied by 2, from the width of the opening, and round the result to a hundred. For example, if the measurement of the opening showed 90 cm, and the width of the box beam was 25 mm, then the dimensions of the canvas are calculated using a simple formula (900 - 25 * 2 = 850). On the basis of which the canvas should be 80 cm. The height is determined in a similar way.

Separately measure the openings in the bathroom and bathroom. Here, due to the nut, which prevents water from flowing out, the height is much less.

Calculate the depth of the door block. To do this, measure the thickness of the wall.

Before installing the door frame, it is also necessary to check the level of the floor. It is important that the floor is level. This measurement is made using the building level. The difference between the racks of the door frame should not exceed 2 mm.

Door frame assembly diagram

On sale the door unit is found in the assembled state or in parts. In the first case, the canvas is matched to the block, and all parameters are adjusted by the manufacturer. If the acquired door does not fit into the opening, then it is expanded. In the second case, you can purchase parts of the door frame and the leaf separately and fit the block to the doorway.

To assemble the door frame you will need:

self-tapping screws;
screwdriver or screwdriver;

hacksaw with a blade for wood and metal;

pencil or marker.

So, let's start assembling the door frame.

On a level surface (floor or big table) we spread the material that will serve as protection against scratches during assembly.

We lay out 2 vertical bars, a disassembled box. They have a vestibule - special grooves that fix the canvas.

We put the door leaf into the porch, leaving a gap of 2-3 mm.

We align the racks of the box and apply the top bar.

Mark the length of the top of the box and cut off the excess. It’s worth cutting strictly in size, but if you missed a little, it doesn’t matter, small imperfections will be hidden by the casing.

Screw the top rail to the uprights using self-tapping screws or carefully nail it.

Measure the doorway again and cut off the excess.

The doors to the bathrooms are equipped with a threshold. Measure another short threshold beam in the same way as the top rail.

The door frame is ready for installation.

Hardware installation

After you managed to assemble the door frame, you need to install hinges on it. They will look more aesthetically pleasing, hinges screwed at the same height at each of the doors.

Without removing the door block from the horizontal surface, after assembling it, attach the fittings to the intended place and circle the dotted line with a sharp pencil. Remove the door leaf and use a chisel to cut out a piece of wood with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the canopy card. Attach the fittings and pierce the twisting points with an awl. Screw the awnings with self-tapping screws. Part of it with a flag, on which the loop will be hung, is mounted on the rack, and the loop on the door leaf.

You can also screw the hardware onto the door frame after it is installed, but you will have to do this while holding the door leaf in the air. One to do this operation definitely won't work.

Installing the interior door frame in the opening

After everything preparatory stages to install the door frame in the opening passed, you can proceed with the installation. In order for the U-shaped structure not to “drive”, it is necessary to install auxiliary strips (struts) on it, two are enough - from the bottom and in the middle of the rack.

In order to check the correct geometry of the frame, you must use a plumb line or level. A plumb line is easy to construct using twine and a bolt, tying it to a hat.

After placing the structure in the indicated place, check the verticality of the racks again. Do not be too lazy to do this, in case of unevenness, the door will not close. This procedure is carried out on both sides of each rack.

The box is mounted with anchor bolts. They will fix the door block and prevent its deformation. To do this, it is necessary to drill 3 through holes in the racks directly into the opening, and then tighten the bolts.

The gaps between the door frame and the opening are eliminated with foam. In order not to stain the front side of the structure, it is necessary to glue it with masking tape. Fill the voids with foam carefully, taking into account the fact that when it hardens, it increases the volume by 30-40%. In order to prevent the box from moving, it is necessary to install wooden spacers. After the foam dries, they are removed.

Final stage

The final stage is the installation of platbands on the door frame. They give door block aesthetic appearance and hide minor installation flaws.

First of all, the length of the clypeus is determined. To do this, you can use the size table, or determine yourself by measuring by extreme point box length and width design. To join the architraves, it is necessary to make a side cut at an angle of 45 °. You can use a miter box (a special device that allows you to cut wood products according to given parameters angle) or a jigsaw, having previously measured the required angle with a protractor.

Further, each of the side trim is nailed to the box with two nails (bottom and middle). The upper horizontal platband is measured and sawed with an angle of 45 °. After that, all 3 strips are finally nailed.

Advice. In order for the nails not to peek out of the lining of the casing, they must be drowned. Cut out with a drill, with a diameter corresponding to the size of the nail head, a recess of 1-1.5 mm.

When cutting the bars of the door frame, use a hacksaw or a jigsaw. Their small teeth will not allow you to chip.

When installing a solid wood leaf, use 3 sheds. So the heavy door will last longer, and the hinges will not sag. A third loop is cut in the middle of the door frame or shifted up.

Doors for the kitchen and living rooms should be 1-2 cm from the floor level. This is done to ensure ventilation. also in kitchen door embed small ventilation grates so that when a gas leaks, it does not concentrate in one room.

If the room has thick walls, and this was not taken into account when choosing a door, then it turns out that the width of the box is less than the width of the opening. To correct such a defect, an addition is used. Bars or boards that completely block the bare wall.

At the final installation of the door frame, in order for the foam to set better, it is necessary to wet the surface with a spray gun.

Now you are definitely ready to install the door frame for the interior door. The proposed video describes in more detail some of the stages of this difficult process.

How to install an interior door: video

Doors are more often purchased in a disassembled state, when the canvas is located separately, and the door frame in general is just a set of profiled wooden beams. True, you should not be afraid of this, since the process of assembling a door frame with your own hands is quite simple.

Door frame mounting tools

swivel chair,
perforator and screwdriver,
hand hacksaw,
carpenter's level and plumb line,
Bulgarian,
pry bar, nail puller, hammer,
set of hardware.

Preparatory work

So, you have already modeled your future interior door and prepared the tools. Now, to install a new door frame, you need to dismantle the old doors.

To do this, the platbands are first removed, and then, trying not to harm the wall, they remove the old door frame with a hacksaw, mount and other necessary tools.

If its fasteners cannot be unscrewed, then they can simply be cut with a grinder. After that, it will be useful to carefully examine the wall for the need to strengthen it.

If you find many cracks on the surface, and the surface begins to crumble with a slight impact, then for installation reliability and durability new door you will need to carry out additional concrete works to strengthen doorway.

We take measurements and assemble the box

This part of the work during the installation of the door frame, without exaggeration, can be called one of the most important. Here you will need to accurately calculate the length of the racks, as well as the upper jumper with or without a threshold (the lower bar in modern doorways usually not done). The width and height of the door frame should ideally be smaller sizes doorway by 2-3 cm, so that the gap between the bars and the wall is no more than 1-1.5 cm.

Sometimes it happens that the dimensions of the opening are much larger than the dimensions of the door and, accordingly, the box. If the difference is relatively small, then a bar of the appropriate thickness can be filled across the entire width of the opening. If the size discrepancy is significant, then the opening is laid with bricks, or part of the wall is sheathed with drywall. But in any case, in order to avoid unnecessary expenses and efforts, dismantle the old door in advance, measure the size of the opening, and buy a new door in accordance with them.

There are several options for assembling the box, but the most popular of them are two - with fastening the bars at an angle of 45 and 90 degrees. For each of them, different measurements are taken.

Advice. In some cases, when arranging the interior, use will be justified - where there is not enough space for classic drop-down doors.

We fix the bars at an angle of 45 degrees

The length of the vertical bars in this case consists of the height of the opening for the door, the thickness of the upper lintel, the threshold (if any) and the dimensions of the required gaps from above and below. The latter are usually taken at 3 mm. Naturally, both vertical beams should be equal in length.

The lengths of the lintel and threshold are calculated by adding the width of the door itself, the thickness of each vertical beam and the same gaps. Remember that in order to fasten the elements of the door frame at an angle of 45 degrees, you need to thoroughly calculate the dimensions, make the necessary markings, and then cut the timber.

The connection is fixed with a pair of screws in pre-drilled holes. The screws are screwed into the bars at an angle of 45 degrees, and if drilling is not done in advance, the wooden profile may simply crack.

We fasten the bars at an angle of 90 degrees

In this case, the horizontal profile of the door frame will lie on the vertical one. Accordingly, the dimensions of the vertical bars will be determined as the height of the door itself plus a pair of gaps of 3 mm each at the top and bottom.

This is for the option with a threshold. If the latter is not present, then instead of 3 mm of the lower gap, you will need to add a whole centimeter, i.e. 10 mm, so that the door does not cling to the floor covering.

The width of the threshold and the upper lintel will be calculated as the sum of the width of the door leaf, double the thickness of the vertical beam and a pair of 3 mm gaps. In addition, so that the protruding part of the profile, on which the door rests when closing, does not interfere with connecting the bars to each other, it will be necessary to make landing selections.

That is, the vestibule - the protruding part along the edges of the horizontal bars, you just need to cut it to the width vertical profile. This will require a minimum of tools:

hacksaw,
carpenter's hammer,
chisel.

Accordingly, with a hacksaw, you will need to carefully make a cut to the width of the protruding part of the profile, and then with a chisel with a hammer, simply chip off an unnecessary piece of the profile and clean the surface. Fastening is carried out similarly with self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 degrees.

Hinge installation

This is also a fairly simple, albeit crucial step in installing the door frame:

Decide how the door will open (inward or outward) in order to choose the side on which you will need to hang the hinges;
Place the door leaf and frame on a flat surface;

Measure 20 cm from the upper and lower edges of the door leaf and mark for installing hinges;
Attach the hinges to the end of the door leaf at the mark, circle them along the contour, and then carefully draw along these lines with a sharp knife;

Further, in this place, with the help of a chisel, it will be necessary to make a recess with a depth corresponding to the thickness of the loop so that the latter does not go beyond the structure;
Mark the place in the recess made for the screws, drill the corresponding holes and fasten the loop;

Inserting hinges into a door frame with a milling cutter

Do the same on the door frame with the second side of the hinges.

- the procedure is troublesome and time-consuming. But with minimal skills in working with wood and necessary tools you can still handle the installation.

Not only aesthetics, but also the strength of the structure depend on whether the door frame was installed correctly. But before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the main parameters that you need to pay attention to during installation.

Construction schemes

There are two schemes for fastening the door frame, which differ in the execution of cuts:

sawing at an angle of 90ᵒ requires a saw with fine teeth, accuracy and minimal knowledge of woodworking technology;
for an angle of 45ᵒ you will need a miter box or a miter saw.

The second mounting scheme is described below, since it is simpler in execution. Now - directly to the installation.

Stage 1. Elements of the door frame

First you need to purchase the necessary construction details. Here is a list of all accessories:

door leaf;
self-tapping screws with dowels;
a pair of vertical bars 2 m long;
one horizontal bar;
wooden platbands;
anchor bolts appropriate size;
iron hanging bars;
platbands;
wedges with a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the bar and the wall surface;
mounting foam;
foam gun.

Stage 2. Equipment

Installation requires a lot of tools and materials. Every owner should have some of them, the rest need to be bought or rented. So, for work you need to prepare:

Stage 3. Dismantling the old box

Preparation for installation often begins with the dismantling of the old door. This must be done in this order.

Step 1. First of all, the platbands are removed and the design of the door frame is disassembled. All this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wall.

Step 2. Anchor bolts and other fasteners are unscrewed or, in extreme cases, cut off.

Step 3. The wall is checked for strength and, if required, further strengthened.

Note! Do not neglect the strength of the wall, because the reliability and durability of the box directly depends on this. If necessary, strengthening is better to make reinforcement and finish cement mortar"problem" areas.

Stage 3. Installing the door frame

Before starting, it is advisable to lay out all the components on the floor at the same level, after placing cardboard or other soft material. Also, the design can be placed on two tables or four stools.

Step 1. Upon completion of dismantling, measurements of the formed doorway are carried out. It is important that the width and height of the structure be at least 5 cm less than the opening - this will allow the installation of spacer wedges.

Note! The wedges should be 0.5 cm larger than the gaps, otherwise the mount will not be strong enough.

Step 2. The ends of the bars are sawn off with a miter box at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Step 3 Holes are made at the joints of the bars. The bars are tightened with self-tapping screws. When tightening, you need to be extremely careful, because if you overdo it, the tree can crack.

The lower bars in modern designs not provided.

Step 4. It is determined on which side the door hinges will be attached, after which their outlines are outlined. The door leaf is tried on, the presence of a small gap between the floor and the frame is checked. With the help of a chisel, places for fixing door hinges are prepared. The hinges are screwed with self-tapping screws to the canvas and bar.

Step 5. Where the box will be adjacent to the wall, hanging strips are attached with self-tapping screws. The plank of each of the frames is equal to the width of the wall, and the antennae 5-7 cm go to the inner and outer side. Horizontally there should be two such strips, vertically - three.

Next, the door frame (only without a leaf) is installed in the opening. Using a level and a plumb line, the horizontal / vertical structure of the structure is checked. From below, a spacer frame of the same size is installed with a bar located on top.

The frame for the doorway is almost ready.

Step 6

Step 7. It remains only to fix the box with anchors. Along the entire perimeter of the beam are made through holes with an equal step, points for drilling the wall are marked in parallel. Then the wall is drilled with a puncher, anchor bolts recessed into the bar are inserted into the holes obtained. Fasteners are tightened with a wrench.

Step 8. At the end, the door leaf is hung, after which the axes are checked. If everything is done correctly, the door will open and close easily. All cracks are filled with mounting foam.

Note! The amount of foam must be controlled, because an insufficient amount will reduce the strength of the structure, and an excess can cause the box to deform.

After that, platbands with pre-sawn corners are installed. For fixing, small nails without hats are taken, all joints are smeared with wax-based mastic.

Video - Assembling the door frame

Box fixing methods

If the width of the opening is greater than the width of the box, then instead of wood, you can use jambs made of MDF - a building material used in last years great popularity. In this case, the mounting technology is almost the same as described above.

different kind additional elements used to increase the distance from the bar. These items can be purchased from ready-made in the store or pre-cut at the preparation stage. In most cases, MDF is used with a special slat located in the center. This bar is removed, and in the groove below it, the required number of holes for the anchors is made. Then the groove is closed with a bar and a reliable and aesthetic design is obtained.

Door frame in a wooden house

Wood is great construction material, the main disadvantage of which is subsidence after construction. For this reason, you need to know how to make a door frame in this case.

In this case, there are only two options.

If the width of the opening corresponds to the size specified in the project, then grooves are made at the ends and a beam is hammered into them. A box is nailed to the beam (it is better not to nail it directly to the walls, because the notorious subsidence will continue).
With an unformed opening, the hole must be made slightly smaller than that specified in the project. The beam in this case is made with a groove.

The sequence of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, the contour of the future opening is marked, while using building level and plumb.

Step 2. Then the opening is sawn out, the upper and lower parts are cut off.

Step 3. The diameter of the log house is measured and the dimensions of the jambs of the door frame are determined from the resulting figure. Jambs are made from decks.

Step 4. The decks are split into blocks and hewn.

Note! It is not at all necessary that the profile of the jambs be rectangular - it can be, for example, trapezoidal.

Video - Door frame made of wood and MDF

And the last. During repair work humidity in the room usually rises, which is very important, especially when assembling the door frame. After some time, the door, previously sitting tightly, begins to loosen. At the same time, many masters also prefer to save on fittings. This is not necessary, because a weak fastening usually causes the fragility of the door.

Having bought a door frame in a store, you should not immediately despair at the sight of a large number prefabricated elements. To assemble such a design, it is not necessary to be a specialist with higher education. To assemble the door frame with our own hands, we will consider the entire installation process in detail.

Usually interior doors are sold disassembled, and at first glance, an incomprehensible and disorderly set of elements opens up to our eyes, which includes a profile wooden beam, in the worst case, from MDF, locks and awnings, as well as canvas. All this is vaguely reminiscent of the children's designer from the do-it-yourself series, and most people, seeing all this, panic and begin to look for an experienced specialist in this field, whose services are very expensive. Other enthusiasts are still trying to solve this puzzle, but their efforts run into a big question mark, because without detailed instructions very difficult to understand the assembly process. In this article, we will try to help you figure out how to outside help assemble the door frame.

Sizing the box

First and very milestone the entire assembly process is an accurate calculation, to the millimeter, of the length of the loot racks, the threshold (if any) and the upper jumper.

Measurement of racks

The height of the posts must be equal to the height of the door. Usually standard size door height is 2000 mm. After making sure of this, we add the width of the gap between the door leaf and the opening to the height of the door leaf by a width of 2-3 mm. In the case of installing doors with a threshold, the width of two gaps of 3 mm in size must be added to the height of the door leaf, a total of 6 mm. In the version without a threshold, we add only one gap of 3 mm in size, and add 1 cm at the bottom so that the canvas does not cling to the floor when opening and closing the doors.

As a result of accurate measurements, we get the following parameters: for the option with a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 2 gaps of 3 mm = 2006 mm; with the option without a threshold, the height of the doors and pillars will be 2000 mm + 3 mm + 10 mm gap = 2019 mm.

Threshold and upper jumper measurement

The size of the threshold and the upper lintel of the door frame must be the same. Let's determine their length correctly, which will be equal to the sum of the width of the door leaf, the width of the gaps between the door and the chute, and the thickness of the profile bar from which the chute will be assembled.

In addition, on both sides of the sections of the jumper and the threshold, it is necessary to cut out the landing samples, that is, cut off the protruding parts of the loot, against which the door rests when closing. The cut should be equal to the thickness of the rack at its widest point.

To correctly cut out the samples, we measure the thickness of the rack from the edge of the jumper on both sides and carefully cut it out with a small hacksaw.

After that, you can screw the door frame with a calm heart.

Do-it-yourself door frame assembly

We screw the door frame with self-tapping screws or confirmations for wood with a length of 55 mm or more. In order for the profile bar or MDF to not crack, you must first make holes of a slightly smaller diameter than the screwed self-tapping screw, by about 2-3 mm.

In order for the structure to hold firmly and not fall apart during installation, all joints must be fixed with self-tapping screws at least twice.

Marking and inserting canopies

The final step in the installation of doors is the connection of the leaf with the door frame. With the help of a simple operation, this will not be difficult. Having laid the door frame on the floor, it is necessary to put the door leaf into it with canopies embedded in it.

Place the leaf in the door frame so that the gap is the same on all sides and equals 3 mm. To do this, you can use a school ruler, the thickness of which is just 3 mm.

After the door in the box has been leveled, it is necessary to copy the location of the canopies from the doors to the loot using a marker.

Pull the doors out of the frame, put it on its side and use a chisel or router to cut out seats for the canopies.

Connect the doors with the frame into a single structure and screw the hinges to the hatch.

The assembly of the door frame is completed. Now the whole structure is ready for installation, and you can say with confidence that you have mastered the puzzle of assembling a door frame with your own hands!