Insulation of the floor in a wooden house: types of insulation and the order of work. Floor arrangement in a wooden house: materials and technology

The construction of any home is a complex process that includes several stages. Among these stages, the process of erecting floors stands out separately. V wooden structures many people prefer wood flooring. This decision is quite justified, because a country house presupposes proximity to the surrounding nature, therefore natural material will look most impressive compared to concrete screed and synthetic topcoats. Floor device in wooden house is characterized by its own characteristics, therefore, the installation of the floor structure should be taken seriously. What kind of floor can be built in a private house?

Types of floors

According to experts, the floors in a wooden house can be either concrete or wood, since these two materials are suitable for use in the construction of private houses. The floor in a log house can be made using underfloor heating technology - modern technologies allow you to implement this option as well.

The concrete floor is a screed filling that you can make yourself. The choice of this option for the floor in a wooden house in some cases saves some amount of time. It takes almost a month to completely dry the screed, and it may take even more time to install a high-quality lumber floor "from scratch".

To the advantages of a concrete floor in log houses should include a decrease in the cost of work on fine finish cover. A properly made screed has a flat surface on which any finishing coating can be mounted. The ability to lay the coating on the screed without additional work to level the working base reduces work time and material costs. The screed process itself is not technically difficult, you do not need special skills here.

When constructing floors in a wooden house made of concrete, it is necessary to take into account the possibility of cracking of the screed under the influence of vibrations of the walls of the structure. The cracks formed during the operation of the concrete floor will not lead to serious consequences, but they can increase heat loss. To keep heat loss at a minimum level during the installation process cement screed it is recommended to carefully consider the installation of high-quality insulation.

A cement floor in a wooden house has another drawback: it itself presses with its weight on the foundation. Before conducting construction works experts recommend making necessary calculations so that during the operation of the house, the foundation can withstand a heavy concrete screed. If you cannot cope with this on your own, contact an experienced builder.

Another type of flooring in a wooden house is a covering from the same wood. The advantages of such a floor structure include the environmental friendliness of the material and the aesthetic appearance. Wood is a natural natural material that does not contain synthetic additives and does not emit harmful substances during operation. human body substances. The appearance of the plank floor is in perfect harmony with the building itself and the surroundings. For country house a cement floor, unlike wood, will seem superfluous, even foreign.

Modern means of protecting wooden floors, which include various oils, varnishes and impregnations, allow not only to provide the floors in a wooden house with a long service life, but also a beautiful appearance in accordance with the general interior of the rooms. In the process of work, the wood floor can be given the desired shade or emphasize its original texture and color. Natural wood provides a feeling of warmth and coziness in the room, contributes to the creation of a comfortable atmosphere throughout the house.

The advantage of the plank floor is the simplicity of its repair. If necessary, you can replace the damaged part yourself using a standard set of tools.

The disadvantages of wood flooring are usually attributed to the high cost of finance and labor. The installation of the floor in a wooden house is quite difficult: sometimes a large amount of work cannot be done alone. Achieving a perfectly flat surface at this cost can be problematic.

Methods for installing wooden floors

Wood floor can be made in country house in three ways. The first method is used in cases when laying the floor in a wooden house is not associated with the installation of load-bearing beams in the frame itself. The final timber cladding will be a floating structure that is not connected to the walls. Such a coating is assembled on support pillars.

The second and third methods of organizing wooden floors are used when the frame is assembled with the installation of load-bearing beams. On the base of these beams, either a single or double plank floor is laid. Arrangement of a single-layer floor in a wooden house is not difficult even for a beginner. This method of installing the cover is easy to implement in practice, but is only suitable for houses that are operated during the warm season. A single coating can be assembled in a country house or in a summer house; for structures in which year-round living is planned, such a design is unacceptable.

For a frequent house built to be used throughout the year, only a double timber floor will do. Such a construction of floors in a wooden house consists of the installation of rough and final flooring, between which hydro- and heat-insulating materials are laid. The upper finishing floor is usually assembled from a grooved board.

How is the floor made on supports?

The erection of the floor on the support columns begins with the preparation of the base. To do this, you need to remove upper layer earth, and then fill in its place with gravel, crushed stone or sand. The best option there will be a base of crushed stone, and on top of it - densely compacted sand. Next, brick support pillars are placed on the base, for which standard red bricks are most often used. Laying the floor in a wooden house should be done taking into account all the basic requirements, therefore, when assembling the support posts, it is necessary to correlate their height and section. The higher you raise the level of the pillars, the larger their section should be. For supports with a height of more than 25 cm, a width of two bricks is recommended.

The installation of pillars for floors in a wooden house begins from the perimeter of the room, after which they proceed to the installation of the same structures in the middle of the working surface. Roofing material is laid on the ends of the supports, which plays the role waterproofing material... On top of it, wooden pads are mounted on the posts, on which logs from a bar or logs are installed.

Logs are placed when flooring in a wooden house at a certain distance from each other, the step between the logs depends on the width of the boards that are supposed to be used in the future. To prevent displacement of the floor structure in winter due to freezing of the soil, it is recommended to fill the space under the logs with slag. The embankment should not reach the lag by about 5 cm - that air gap left especially for ventilation processes.

The floor itself is laid on the mounted logs, and it is recommended to place the boards in the direction of light from the windows or in the direction of movement. Experts advise starting the flooring 1.5 cm from the wall; such gaps around the perimeter of the floor in a wooden house are made specifically to ensure the required level of ventilation.

Long nails are used as fasteners for plank floors, which should be hammered into the board at an angle. After painting works the nail heads will no longer be visible. When the floor is fully assembled, temporary skirting boards are attached to opposite sides of the room. When laying the floor in a wooden house, the slots of these skirting boards are used as buffer zones necessary for a time until the wood is completely dry. When the lumber is completely dry, these skirting boards can be replaced with conventional structures. To understand the procedure installation works to create a floor on supports, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with the photos depicting each stage of the process.

Single plank flooring

A single floor can be realized on a structure made of support pillars... In this case, beams are attached to the support posts, and a tongue-and-groove board is laid on top of the beams. Such a floor in a wooden house is fully consistent with the above-described structure, assembled on pillars.

There is another option for single floor flooring: when the covering is mounted on beams embedded from load-bearing walls. In such a situation, there is no need to erect brick supports. The role of the working framework will be performed load-bearing beams... Since the distance between them is usually very large, before working on the plank flooring, a lathing should be built from the logs.

The construction of the floor assumes the use of a timber with a side of a square section of 5-6 cm as a log. In a wooden house, the step between the logs is determined by the thickness of the final coating board. The thicker the grooved board, the larger the step between the lags can be. When installing the lathing, experts recommend constantly monitoring the evenness of its surface. Only a well-assembled lathing will allow you to lay a flat plank covering without any problems.

When the logs are assembled and fixed with nails, you can proceed to the installation of the single flooring itself. The flooring can act as both a rough and a finishing coating. If you are not going to additionally lay a decorative covering in the form of linoleum or other material on the floors in a wooden house, then the boardwalk will be considered final. Finished surface after completion of all work, it is recommended to cover it in several layers with a protective varnish.

If you cover the wood floor with any other material, then in fact it will act as a rough flooring. For the installation of the rough covering, it will be enough to use unedged material.

Installation of single floors on support columns or on a lath from a lag is quite simple to do it yourself. Such coverage is done quickly and easily, and also does not require serious costs. The disadvantage of single-layer floors in a wooden house is their low degree thermal insulation. In winter, the ground in the underground room will freeze. In the case of the use of pillars, this can cause displacement of the brick pillars and the coating itself. A single floor can be used either for houses that involve living in summer period time, or in the case of heating in the cold season.

Double flooring

A double floor in a wooden house can be considered the best solution if you live in the countryside all year round. Such a coating is called double, since it consists of two mandatory layers- roughing and finishing. How is the installation carried out?

First, a rough covering of unedged sawn timber with a thickness of up to 0.45 cm is assembled on the beams. Since this floor layer is at the bottom, when arranging it, you can save on the purchase of materials. It is not necessary to use expensive boards for the subfloor in a wooden house; a croaker or low-grade materials are suitable here. This does not mean that the rough layer can be made of poor quality. For him, it is recommended to choose boards of coniferous trees, as well as pre-impregnate them with antiseptic solutions.

The roughing boards should lie close to each other. When this layer of construction is ready, it must be laid on top of it. thermal insulation material... For these purposes, mineral wool, polystyrene, expanded clay, sawdust or others are suitable. modern species heaters.

Floor arrangement in a wooden house without fail includes not only placement insulation material but also a waterproofing layer. All these components of the structure provide the future coating with a long service life. Finish coating is installed after the installation of the thermal insulation, a gap of 1.5 cm should be left between these two layers. The fixing of the boards is carried out in the same way as when constructing other types of floors.

On finished double floors in a wooden house, you can lay a finishing coating, and also use the finishing layer of the structure itself as a decor. To do this, the wood must be treated with protective varnishes or other special compounds with a tint effect.

A wooden house requires especially careful thermal protection, since when the temperature and humidity conditions are violated, the wood begins to rot and lose its strength characteristics. This will help prevent effective insulation... Before starting work on protection from the cold, you need to figure out how to correctly insulate the floor in an individual wooden house.

Why insulate a wooden floor

Wood compared to concrete is enough warm material, but when erecting a frame private house or a house from a bar with your own hands, it is not always possible to achieve a rational balance of the thickness of the structure in terms of strength and thermal conductivity. To reduce the consumption of materials on walls and foundations, thermal insulation is necessary. It is possible to carry out insulation works both in the old, long-commissioned building, and in new construction.

Insulating a floor in a wooden house can prevent the following problems:

the appearance of excessive dampness in the room;
lowering the temperature in the task;
condensation, as a result of which mold appears;
the appearance of a fungus and other microorganisms dangerous to humans;
increased heating costs;
destruction wooden structures from the inside.

By doing the work with your own hands, you can significantly reduce costs. Now there are many materials, the use of which does not require special skills and high qualifications.

Diagram of all heat losses wooden house.

What floors require insulation

The following constructs need protection:

cold basement overlap pie;
attic floor;
construction of interfloor overlap.

In the case of the interfloor version, the material is used as sound insulation. In this case, it is necessary to provide a layer with a thickness of 3-5 cm.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor in a wooden house allows you to provide comfortable living conditions. Most of the heat loss occurs through the ceiling of the upper floor, therefore it is necessary that the thermal insulation is selected and installed correctly.

Materials for work

In order to properly insulate the floor in a wooden house, you need to choose a high-quality insulation that has all the necessary properties. Insulation can be carried out both from inside the room and from the cold air side.

For do-it-yourself insulation attic floor from the inside or the basement from the bottom, it is better to use lightweight materials that will fix without problems from the bottom to the overlap pie. In this case, it will be correct to apply:

mineral wool in rolls;

These materials will provide maximum convenience work when insulating the ceiling with your own hands.

When insulating frame house, houses made of timber or logs, you can carry out work from the inside of the room for the floor of the first floor and outside for the last. In this case, it is better to carry out floor insulation along logs or beams, since this will prevent the transfer of load to fragile material. For this type of work, you can use the following materials:

You can find out more about insulation with sawdust and expanded clay in articles and. These materials have such advantages as natural origin and low cost, so if you need to reduce the cost of construction or insulation in an old building and ensure complete environmental friendliness, it is better to use them. However, they are less technologically advanced than other materials.

Recently, the method is also gaining popularity. This method is good for its low labor intensity and high efficiency.

Floor insulation technology

It is important to properly lay the insulation in compliance with the correct order of all layers. When insulating the attic floor, the floor of the second floor or the first floor, the cake of the floor has not always noticeable, but significant differences.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from below

In this case, when carrying out work with your own hands, the materials should be correctly laid in the following order:

waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
overlap construction.

When building a house from a bar or frame, the material is fixed along the beams. Then the filing is done. Ordinary plastic wrap can be used as protection against moisture and steam. As a second option for waterproofing, waterproof membranes are used. If all the layers are laid correctly, the structure will be reliably and competently protected from the cold from the point of view of heating technology.

This method is very laborious and is used only if there is no possibility of insulation from the inside.

Also, the method is perfect for insulation from below.

Insulation of the floor of the first floor from the inside

It is quite inconvenient to carry out work under the ceiling, therefore, when erecting a frame house or a building from a bar, insulation of the first floor overlap is often performed along the beams from above. In this case, in addition to the previously given materials, you can use bulk materials such as sawdust and expanded clay. When carrying out insulation with your own hands, correctly lay all the layers in the following sequence:

floor structure;
waterproofing;
insulation;
vapor barrier;
clean floor.

The vapor barrier must be placed from the inside of the room, so it will work correctly, preventing damage to the floor over the beams from the timber.

Insulation of interfloor overlap

In the first case, the insulation dampens airborne noises: human speech, music, etc. In the second case, the structure is also perfectly insulated from impact noise- steps, jumps, etc.

Competent noise insulation of inter-floor ceilings is a guarantee of a comfortable stay for all family members.

Insulation of the ceiling of the upper floor from the inside

Installation of insulation from the inside does not provide maximum protection of structures, but it can be used as a second option for laying insulation. In this case, the insulation is mounted on the beams from the bottom of the floor. It will be correct to arrange the layers in this order:

vapor barrier;
insulation;
waterproofing;
overlapping structure on beams.

Insulation of the attic floor

When building and repairing a frame house, a house made of timber or logs, it is better to carry out the attic insulation from above. This method has the following advantages:

ease of installation;
the possibility of using inexpensive bulk materials;
competent thermal protection;
warming not only the premises, but also the overlapping on the beams of the house from a bar or frame;
prevention of condensation in the thickness of the floor.

To ensure adequate protection, the layers are stacked in the following order from bottom to top:

floor structure;
vapor barrier;
thermal insulation material;
waterproofing.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

To perform a full-fledged thermal engineering calculation of the structures of a frame house or a building from a bar, it is not necessary to have a construction education. When performing the calculation, it is important to know the thicknesses of all layers of the cake and their thermal conductivity. It is quite easy to figure it out.

The calculation will allow you to correctly insulate a house from a bar and prevent overspending of materials. All calculations, taking into account the search for the initial data, are unlikely to take more than half an hour. Usually such layers as waterproofing, vapor barrier are not taken into account.

A competent choice of the method of insulation, the type of material and its thickness can save you from many problems during operation. When building multi-storey residential buildings, the question of insulation does not arise: it is required. The correctness of the selection of the thickness and the availability of measures for thermal protection of the floor, attic floor and walls are checked by an expert examination, which considers these calculations on a par with calculations for strength.

In private housing construction, no one checks the availability of competent insulation, but this does not make it less important.

The process of erecting a private wooden house consists of several stages, one of which is associated with the construction of the floor. Its variety is chosen at the design stage of the structure and many factors are taken into account. About what kind of floors there are in a wooden house, and the features of their designs, will be discussed in this article.

The floor on the first floor in a wooden house, when there is an unheated basement underneath, has its own characteristics. In this regard, several types of structures can be distinguished:

1. Cold floor construction on an earthen base (no underground). The device of such a type of cold floor is possible only if there is dry soil under the structure and a high location of the ceilings of the lower floor, under which a layer of compacted sand is laid. On top of it, another layer of clean, calcined, dry sand is poured. Lags made of coniferous timber with a thickness of more than 150 mm are buried into the formed soil base and abut against special recesses in the walls of the house. A single plank flooring is made from above, the thickness of which is from 30 to 40 mm.

2. Underfloor heating with a cold underground is recommended in areas where there is a high level groundwater... This design is arranged as follows:

cleaned sand with a layer of 10 - 15 cm is laid on the ground in the underground and tamped;
install supports with a height of at least 50 cm.To do this, you can pour concrete mortar into vertically dug pipes with metal frame required height;
on top of the supports are laid double layer waterproofing material and wooden dies 3 cm thick;
load-bearing beams are laid.

For the device of thermal insulation, it is necessary to mount a rough floor, laid on slats nailed to the ends of the log. Cut unedged boards are used for flooring. Then a layer of vapor barrier and insulation are laid. After that, a plank covering is laid on the beams.

3. A cold floor with a warm subfloor is recommended where the ground has a low water level. Just as in the previously described method, the structure is installed, but the stage of the sub-floor with insulation is skipped and a clean floor is installed.

What should be a wooden house

The floor in a wooden house should be strong, durable, warm and even, with an aesthetic appearance.

When performing work on the installation of a floor in a wooden house on their own, they take into account the above requirements, and also determine the procedure for performing the upcoming work, take into account the characteristics of the structures of the building and individual characteristics home operation. First you need to consider different variants floors that can be arranged in a wooden house, study their pros and cons and, taking into account the operating conditions, choose suitable option.

An important criterion that the floor must meet is its evenness. Regardless of the material of the floor, it must meet the standards of sanitary and hygienic, structural, operational and aesthetic requirements.

Types of floors

Floors in wooden houses are made of wood or concrete - the most common building materials... Also, the technology of the device "underfloor heating system" can be implemented.

Now on construction market there are several types of "warm floors". They differ in the type of coolant and work efficiency. We will tell you in our article.

Concrete floor

A popular way to get an even base in a relatively short time is to fill concrete screed... If it may take a month to completely dry the screed, then the installation of a new wooden one will take longer.

The advantages of concrete floors are as follows:

In a significant reduction in the cost of finishing the device.
After the screed dries, a flat base is obtained, but any finishing material can be laid.
With an initially well-made screed, additional alignment before the finishing stage of work may not be necessary, which will save time, physical strength and material costs.
The screed device can be done independently, without the involvement of specialists.

How to equip a concrete floor in a private house on your own in two main options - on the ground and on the floors - you will learn

Among the shortcomings, it can be noted a lot of weight. monolithic construction floor and as a result - an increase in the load on the foundation. Therefore, the necessary base calculations are performed at the design stage of the house. Another nuance is that when the walls vibrate, the screed may crack, which will lead to heat loss. Therefore, when installing a warm floor, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation of the base.

Wooden floor

Another common material for flooring in a wooden house is natural wood. Its advantages include the following:

Environmentally friendly material with rich natural patterns.
The wood is safe, as it does not contain harmful additives, it is completely natural and does not emit in environment harmful toxins.
Aesthetic appearance and an organic combination of wood with the rest of the structure, while the concrete floor will not look natural.
When installing a wooden floor, you can refuse other finishing materials... With the help of varnishes, oils, stains and other impregnations, a wooden finishing base can become stronger, more durable and acquire an original, noble appearance.
Wood is very durable and, depending on the breed, you can choose a material with certain operational properties and texture.

The indisputable quality of natural wood gives an atmosphere of warmth and comfort, creates an optimal microclimate and comfort in the house.

Important! The wooden floor is repairable. For maintenance its fragment does not require dismantling of the entire flooring; a separate fragment can be replaced. This will require minimal set tools and building skills.

Of the minuses of a wooden floor, the high cost of the material is noted, laboriousness during its installation. In addition, it can be quite difficult to get a perfectly flat base.

Which is better - concrete or wood

At the stage of designing a private house, you must immediately decide on what kind of floor will be - wood or concrete. To choose the most suitable option, you need to know what is the difference between such floors.

Price

To fill in a screed with a thickness of 5 cm, you will need 0.5 bag of cement (300 rubles / mesh) and 1.5 (50 rubles / mesh) bag of sand. Thus, 1m 2 of the screed will cost an average of 225 rubles. If the work will be performed by a hired person, then the cost of the work must be added to this amount - 250 rubles / m 2.

If we take a dry timber 10 x 10 cm as a basis, with a step of 40 cm (400 rubles / m2) and OSB slabs(600 rubles / m 2) 18 mm thick. With the work of a carpenter, the cost will be 1250 rubles / m2.

Communications

V modern houses the heating, water supply and sewerage system is laid inside the floor structure. In the event of a pipe break, wood can be quickly cut and access communications. WITH concrete floors more difficult - you will have to use a professional tool to remove the screed, and the process itself will take a lot of time and effort.

Timing

The screed gains full strength within 28 days from the day of pouring. Moreover, it gains 70% of its strength in the first week. All this time, the solution gives off moisture and nothing can be laid on it.

The wooden floor can be used immediately after installation.

Durability

If the laying of a wooden floor is not performed by a professional craftsman, then after a couple of weeks you can hear a characteristic creak when walking on the floor. The concrete screed is devoid of this drawback. Moreover, when the work is performed by hired workers, the result and the quality of their work can be assessed immediately.

Weight

The weight of 1 m 2 of an OSB sheet with a thickness of 18 mm is 12 kg, logs per 1 m 2 weigh about 25 kg, depending on the type of wood. Thus, 1 m 2 of a wooden floor will weigh about 40 kg. And 1m 2 of screeds with a thickness of 5 cm weighs 100 kg.

The process of erecting floors on poles

When erecting such a floor, the following procedure must be followed:

Prepare the base. For this, marking and excavation of soil with a vegetation layer is carried out. The resulting depression is covered with crushed stone, and on top with sand, which is then rammed.
Then, brick support pillars are installed, taking into account the basic design requirements regarding the height of the finished floor mark and the structure under it.
The ratio of the height of the support post and the section of the brick must be taken into account. So, with a support height of 25 cm and above, the recommended width of the support pillar is equal to two bricks.
It is necessary to proceed with the installation of supports first along the perimeter of the future room, and then within the specified boundaries.
I put two layers of roofing material on the upper plane of each column to ensure waterproofing of the structure.
Then the wood lining is fixed. Logs made of logs or timber are installed on them. The width of the pitch of their arrangement relative to each other is chosen depending on the width of the floorboards to be laid.
Slag backfill, in height not reaching the log by 5 cm, is used in order to exclude the mobility of the floor structure in the cold season when the soil freezes. The remaining free space provides ventilation of the structure.

The floor is laid on top of the installed logs with the help of boards, which begin to be laid, retreating 1.5 cm from the wall. The resulting gap performs a ventilation function, which is very important for the correct and long-term operation of a natural wood floor.

The boards are attached to the logs with long nails hammered in at an angle of 45 degrees. Until the wood is completely dry, temporary skirting boards are installed.

Single layer floor

The single floor structure can be positioned on poles as described above. Only on top of the sopor beams are placed, on top of which the flooring of the tongue-and-groove board is laid.

The second option is to install the floor on beams cut into the body of the building's supporting enclosing structures. Beams act as the basis for the floor, and brick supports are no longer required.

Due to the large free distance between the beams, the fastening of the flooring from the boards is carried out along the crate:

The lathing is made from a bar with a square section of 5-6 cm.
The pitch of the timber in the crate depends on the thickness floor boards... The smaller the thickness of the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.
It is important during the installation of the lathing to control its horizontal position, so that in the end you get an even plank covering.
The fastening of the boards begins after all the joists are installed in their places and securely fixed with nails.
If it is not supposed to lay on top of the flooring additional decorative coating- laminate, tile, linoleum, then it is fine.
After the single deck has been installed, it is covered with two coats of protective varnish.

Advice. If the flooring is rough, then an unedged board can be used for its device.

Making a single floor does not require serious professional skills, serious time and financial costs. But its disadvantage is its low thermal insulation properties.

TO optimal solution when arranging a floor in a wooden house, a two-layer structure consists of a rough and a finishing layer. Installation of such a structure takes place in the following way:

The subfloor is assembled from unedged boards up to 4.5 cm thick, treated with an antiseptic composition. In this case, preference should be given to coniferous wood - it is durable, resistant to moisture, dampness and decay.
The boards are laid tightly to each other, and a layer of thermal insulation made of mineral wool, foam, expanded clay or sawdust is laid on top.
In addition to insulation, it is necessary to perform steam and waterproofing of the structure in order to extend its service life.
Planks of a clean floor are laid, as for other types of structures, leaving a gap between them with a black floor of 1.5 cm.

A clean floor can fulfill the function topcoat or serve as the basis for laying decorative flooring, which will not only decorate the room, but also increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor.

Start of work - installation of the subfloor

A subfloor when installing a plank covering is necessary for several reasons:

To increase the operational life of the structure due to the presence high-quality ventilation floor.
It performs the function solid foundation for laying insulation and finishing floor.
Makes the building frame more rigid.

Before starting work on the installation of a rough structure, check the following:

The wood selected as the material for the sub-floor must have an optimal level of moisture - this will exclude possible deformation of the structure during its subsequent operation.
Boards should not have pronounced defects.
If an inexpensive board can be used for the subfloor, then for the final floor it is purchased with a margin, so that later you do not have to look for material of the same shade.

Preparation

Installation of the subfloor can be carried out both on the ground and on the ceilings. In any case, it is necessary to complete a set of preparatory measures:

The walls of the building must be equipped with ventilation windows, outside closed with special gratings.
Everything wooden parts treated with antiseptic compounds to increase the service life of the structure.
Given the size of the room in which the floor will be mounted, the required amount of material is calculated.
Throughout all work, it is important to monitor the horizontal position of the floor structure in order to exclude the formation of a slope.
Beams and logs are subject to processing, in which they are cut to eliminate slopes and bevels.

Sub-floor laying

So that the floor does not creak, vibrate, and be even and warm, it is necessary to pay special attention to laying the subfloor and, first of all, the lags.

The logs should be suspended on the supports of the timber with a step of 60 cm - insulation will be laid in the formed gap. It is not worth saving on beams in order to avoid sagging and vibration of the floor during operation.

Where heavy equipment will subsequently be installed, for example, a stove or fireplace, the floor is reinforced by placing beams in increments of 30 cm.

Fastenings in such places are also further strengthened.

Bars are nailed down across the beams. Between floors, the beams are nailed along the beams - this will save the height of the room and, if necessary, use the upper beams as decorative element in the interior after their additional finishing.

In the gap, an OSB sheet is laid on the bars.

After that, in a checkerboard pattern, mineral wool slabs are laid, and on top of a continuous layer of vapor barrier, which covers the logs and is fixed with construction stapler... The seam of the vapor barrier is glued with tape.

The second layer of vapor barrier is laid with an overlap, and on top is formed ventilation gap... To do this, use a bar of 40 x 100 mm, screwed to the floor logs. A finishing floor will be mounted on top of these bars.

Important! Everything wooden elements must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

Video - Thermal insulation of a wooden floor

Laying the finished floor

To obtain an aesthetically pleasing and durable finish floor, it is recommended to use a milled plank with a tongue and groove attachment.

Table 1. Installation instructions for finishing floorboards

Illustration	Description
	The first board is laid with a groove to the wall, leaving an expansion gap.
	It must be fixed with self-tapping screws so that you can later close the attachment point with a plinth. There are 2 options for further fixing the boards.
	In the first version, self-tapping screws are used that are twice as long as the floorboard.
	Self-tapping screws are screwed into each lag in the center of the board. Subsequently, the hats can be masked with wood putty.
	Then take the next board and align the spike with the groove.
	If necessary, the boards are adjusted by hitting with a mallet through the block.
	Or pressed with a chisel.
	The second mounting option is to screw the self-tapping screws at an angle of 45 degrees into the thorn. To prevent the board from bursting, you must first drill a hole for the self-tapping screw.
	With this option, the boards adhere to each other more tightly, and the fasteners are invisible.

After all the boards are laid, their surface is sanded and covered with wear-resistant varnish in several layers.

Concrete floor in a wooden house

The most common way to build a concrete floor in a wooden house is to pour it over the ground, but with the prerequisite that the ground must be dry.

Stage 1 - preparation

Preparatory work includes the following steps:

Using the level, determine the main indicators and calculate the earthworks.
In order to exclude soil subsidence and cracking of the concrete floor in the future, the soil is carefully rammed using special devices.
On the ground, they perform a well-rammed sand pillow... The backfill will be denser if you pour material that exceeds the required volume by 25%, moisten and thoroughly compact with a roller or vibrator.
Expanded clay or gravel layer is laid on the sand.

Stage 2 - waterproofing

The next step is to perform , so that it does not absorb moisture from the concrete screed, and it also protects the floor from soil moisture. To do this, use roll materials based on bitumen. Thick plastic wrap can be used.

The waterproofing material is laid with an overlap, leading it to the wall by 20 cm, and then the joints are glued with tape. It is important that the material is homogeneous, without damage.

An alternative way is coating method when mastic waterproofing is applied during the subfloor pouring stage.

Stage 3 - filling the subfloor

A subfloor or a technological floor serves as the basis for a waterproofing and vapor barrier layer. For its manufacture, concrete of class B7.5 - B10 and crushed stone of size 50-20 are used. There are no strict rules for pouring the rough layer, the main thing is that its thickness is about 50 mm, and the difference does not exceed 4 mm.

Stage 4 - vapor barrier and insulation

A vapor barrier material in the form of inexpensive fiberglass or polyester membranes is laid on top of the subfloor. Long lasting material, not afraid of decay, are PVC membranes. Insulation is placed on the vapor barrier - this allows you to increase the energy efficiency of the living space by 20%. The following materials can be used as insulation:

Mineral wool, the density of which does not exceed 120kg / m 3. To prevent it from accumulating cotton wool, it is insulated with polyethylene.
Where the floor is exposed to heavy loads, it is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam, which, when compressed, deforms, and then returns to its original state.
When using polystyrene, to give strength, it is covered with polyethylene on all sides.

Stage 5 - final screed

At the final stage, the final screed is performed, which will become the basis for the decorative flooring. It can be solid or dry. In the first case, pouring a solution with a large filler in the form of crushed stone, stones, small pebbles or a cement-sand composition ( quartz sand) is produced by lighthouses. The screed is poured from the far corner of the room, leveling the solution with the rule. Complete drying of the screed occurs after 30 days.

An alternative is a dry screed based on fiberboard, plywood and asbestos-cement sheets, gypsum plasterboard. The technology is simple and fast:

Lined with plastic wrap.
A technological gap of 1 cm is left along the walls, in which the sound-proof material is placed.
Sand backfill is carried out with a thickness of 5 cm.
The sheet material is laid in two layers and securely fixed to each other using self-tapping screws or construction glue.
Putty and grind joints.

Topcoat materials

Material for finishing floors in a wooden house are selected depending on the interior solution. If the look of the house inside retains the flavor of natural wood, which on the walls and ceiling is not hidden behind other finishes, then the floor covering should be organically combined with it.

Table 2. Types of flooring

Illustration	Description
	In a wooden house, the best solution would be a natural wood floor. It will organically fit into the interior with wood cladding walls. Wood has low thermal conductivity, it is environmentally friendly and safe. Natural wood flooring is distinguished by a variety of textures and rich natural patterns.
	A beautiful and natural floor covering for a wooden house can be obtained when laying parquet made from natural wood, which has high aesthetics, a variety of shades and good performance.
	In rooms with high humidity- bathroom, shower bath, in the kitchen, as well as in the hallway practical solution will be laying tiles.
	Laminate, which has high strength, wear resistance and decorative effect, is becoming an alternative material to expensive natural wood. This material imitates many, even rare and very expensive wood species.

Prices for popular types of block parquet

piece parquet

The wooden house has a special atmosphere home comfort and warmth, so natural, natural materials look natural in its walls.

Additional insulation of the floor in a wooden house will reduce heat loss and thereby reduce heating costs. Despite the fact that wooden floors have a low thermal conductivity, heat leakage can occur due to the high temperature difference in the basement and on the ground floor. In this article, we will tell you which material is better to use for thermal insulation of the first and second floors in a private house with a wooden base.

Features of thermal insulation

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house? The process of installing thermal insulation is relatively simple. However, the quality of work is largely determined by technical features coatings used for insulation. Before purchasing material for cladding a rough base, you need to consider several important nuances:

the estimated load on the coating;
humidity level;
temperature loads;
the height of the heat-insulating coatings.

The base insulation technology itself is simple and consists of several stages:

installation of a lag;
fixing from below on the logs of wooden sheets;
installation of insulation along the logs;
sheathing of the base with vapor barrier material;
finishing of the rough base.

When planning work, it is very important to take into account the indoor climate. For insulation of the first and second floors, various heat insulators are used, as is correct. Moreover, technologically, the process of warming also has some differences, which we will talk about a little later.

Optimal heat insulators

What is the best material to use for DIY finishing roughing? For insulation of wooden floors, both natural and synthetic thermal insulators are used. The most demanded of them include:

Sawdust;
Expanded clay;
Minvatu;
Izolon;
Styrofoam;
Penofol.

Each material has its own technological features and thermal insulation parameters. To understand their disadvantages and advantages, consider all of the above heat insulators in more detail.

Thermal insulation with sawdust

Insulation with sawdust is one of the most budgetary options for thermal insulation of wooden floors. Environmentally friendly material is quite lightweight, therefore it can be used to insulate intermediate floors. The thickness of the heat insulator layer can be easily varied due to its flowability. Thus, it is possible to regulate the level of heat loss in the room.

When finishing the base with sawdust, the following types of chipboard can be used:

Blocks of pressed sawdust. Material is produced from copper sulfate, sawdust and dry cement. As a rule, it is laid between the logs when insulating the first floor. Lightweight blocks of small thickness - up to 15 mm, can be used for wall cladding;
Pellets with sawdust. Granular bulk material is made from sawdust treated with an antiseptic and glue. It is possible to insulate interfloor floors with hard-to-burn sawdust, since they do not create a large static load due to their low weight;
Arbolit. In this case, the base material is mixed with synthetic and organic additives, and then formed into blocks. The non-combustible thermal insulator has high flexural strength, while it is hygroscopic. Therefore, in the process of laying it, it is necessary to use waterproofing layers;
Sawdust concrete. Outwardly, blocks with sawdust resemble a cinder block. They are made from a mixture of wood-shaving granules, cement and sand. Suitable only for thermal insulation of the first floor of the house.

Warming the floor along the logs with sawdust in any case involves the use of a waterproofing layer. The hygroscopic material is a good environment for the development of mold and pathogenic flora, therefore, during the operation of the coating, it is necessary to exclude the possibility of moisture ingress.

Thermal insulation with expanded clay

Expanded clay - granular insulation with good performance of sound and heat insulation. Why is it worth insulating the bases with expanded clay? The heat insulator has considerable advantages, which include:

environmental friendliness;
frost resistance;
strength;
low thermal conductivity;
incombustibility.

When finishing the coating with expanded clay with your own hands, you need to take into account the low level of hydrophobicity. The material quickly absorbs moisture, although it does not deform at the same time. However, expanded clay warming is fraught with the formation of mold under the floor. Therefore, in the process of laying it, you need to think about additional waterproofing.

How to make thermal insulation with expanded clay correctly?

Before expanded clay, lay a layer of waterproofing on the base. It can be plastic wrap or roofing material;
The layer thickness should vary from 10 to 50 mm, no more;
As you can see in the photo, a vapor barrier is placed on top of the insulation;
As a vapor barrier, coatings with a foil layer can be used. The best option would be Penofol.

If you want to insulate the plank floor with expanded clay with your own hands, under which the basement is located, it is advisable to pour a layer of sand from below. Thanks to it, condensation will not collect under the floor, which significantly reduces the risk of mold or mildew.

Thermal insulation with mineral wool

Is it possible to insulate a wooden base along the logs mineral wool? An environmentally friendly thermal insulator is made from fibers obtained from glass containers and slags. The advantages of finishing the rough base with mineral wool include:

ease of installation;
low cost;
insignificant weight;
environmental friendliness;
mold resistance;
good thermal insulation.

However, in the case of processing the floor along the lags with mineral wool, several negative points must be taken into account, namely:

Upon contact with water, a coating insulated with mineral wool loses its thermal insulation qualities;
It is not recommended to use the material for the cladding of the second floor due to its low vapor permeability;
It is not advisable to insulate rooms with a high static load with mineral wool because of their low strength.

What is the scheme for carrying out the work?

Preparation of the base. From below you need to mount a plank floor treated with an antiseptic;
Waterproofing. It is necessary to make additional waterproofing using polyethylene film, first put things in order in the house;
Sheathing with mineral wool. In the process of laying, you need to ensure that the layers of material are stacked on the logs very tightly to each other;
Installation of vapor barrier. It is better to make a high-quality vapor barrier with Penofol;
The final stage. At this stage, the installation of the topcoat is carried out.

The thickness of the mineral wool is determined by the indoor climate. If there is a basement below the room, the material can be laid in two layers.

Thermal insulation with ecowool

Why is it better to make the thermal insulation ecowool? 100% natural covering has good technical parameters and relatively low cost. It is made from cellulose and mineral additives, therefore, even when heated, the coating with ecowool does not emit corrosive chemicals. The product impregnated with boric acid is practically invulnerable to mold and mildew.

What are the advantages of this type of insulation?

Good heat and sound insulation;
Fire safety;
Environmental friendliness;
Low thermal conductivity.

As you can see in the photo, finishing the rough base along the ecowool logs can be done in two ways:

Manual. In this case, finishing with ecowool implies the installation of insulation along the logs on the shields attached from below. To prevent heat loss, the joints are treated with polyurethane foam;
Mechanical. For finishing the base with ecowool, blowing machines are used: through a special hose, friable insulation is evenly distributed over the coating. In this case, the layer thickness should be at least 3-4 mm.

The process of thermal insulation of ecowool floors is shown in more detail in the video clip.

Thanks to the glue that is part of the thermal insulator, it can be used to insulate not only the floor base, but also the walls. It is also worth noting that it is convenient to insulate with ecowool not only the first floor of the house, but also the floors. The vapor-permeable coating prevents condensation and mold growth.

Insulation with Izolon

How to correctly carry out thermal insulation along the logs with an isolon? The heat insulator, made of foamed polyethylene, has a low thermal conductivity. Due to this quality, it has recently been used to insulate floor coverings. What are the advantages of Izolon?

Small thickness (2-10 mm);
Low thermal conductivity;
High hydrophobicity;
Environmental Safety.

As you can see from the photo, the material is produced in rolls, which greatly facilitates the do-it-yourself installation process. Insulating wooden floor Izolon, you need to take into account the following points:

The coating has good sound insulation, therefore, when laying it, it is not necessary to use additional soundproofing layers;
To reduce heat loss in the room, when laying Izolon with your own hands, the material is not joined, but overlapped;
Seams between adjacent sheets are treated with polymer glue or bitumen mastic.

Thermal insulation work can be seen in the photo below.

Insulation by Penofol

Is it possible to insulate wooden floors with penofol? Penofol is a new generation insulation coating, produced in the form of a roll. To be more precise, Shielding is made with Penofol, which prevents the dispersion of radiant energy. Lightweight and easy to use, the insulation has a reflective layer that prevents high heat loss. That is why they began to use it everywhere for finishing interfloor ceilings.

What are the benefits of Penofol?

withstands heavy loads;
non-hygroscopic;
has low thermal conductivity;
easy to fit;
does not involve the use of a vapor barrier.

For your information. The technology of warming the bases with Penofol differs little from insulation with Izolon. As in previous version, the sheets are overlapped to prevent heat loss.

Features of isolation by lags

How to properly insulate a rough base along the logs? In the process of laying the thermal insulator, the following scheme must be observed:

The rough base is lined with boards that must be attached to the logs;
To prevent moisture from entering under the coating, a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
Then the base is insulated with expanded polystyrene, mineral wool or other materials.

If it is necessary to make high-quality thermal insulation of a room above a non-residential and unheated room, then it is better to use mineral wool with a thickness of more than 40 mm as a heater. In this case, the "cake" obtained from a vapor barrier and mineral wool will allow you to keep heat in the room, preventing heat exchange between cold basement and the first floor.

Features of the first floor thermal insulation

Since the tree tends to deform, over time, cracks can form in the floor, through which heat gradually begins to evaporate from the room. How to make high-quality insulation of the first floor in an old house?

The first step is to remove the old floor covering;
Then the lag is revised for deformation or decay;
If necessary, replace rotten beams;
Then they treat the tree with an antiseptic with their own hands;
Bars are nailed to the logs from below for laying wooden boards;
Insulation is poured onto the boards;
Next, a layer of vapor barrier is laid;
They complete the work with the installation of the topcoat.

The insulation technology is shown in detail in the video.

A wooden house is associated with comfort and warmth. Natural wood materials create a special atmosphere, they are safe for health. At the same time, wood requires special care and compliance with operational requirements. Building a floor in a wooden house also requires a special approach. Let's consider how you can do this correctly.

Gender requirements

A properly laid floor in a wooden house must satisfy such parameters as practicality and durability. It must be made warm and even. Its aesthetic appearance plays an important role. If we are laying a floor with additional insulation, we must not forget that in this case it will be necessary to raise it.

To lay the floor with your own hands in accordance with these requirements, you need to determine the order of work, take into account all the individual features of the operation and construction of the building.

The whole process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Consideration of the properties of various floor structures;
Studying the installation process depending on the selected type;
Construction and installation of a selected type of structure.

The most common types of flooring in a wooden house are concrete, plywood or laid on logs. With the help of lags or concrete screed, you can raise the floor level. In the photo you can see how the floor looks like using different materials.

For your information: In this case, regardless of the type chosen, you can equip with a floor heating system. This will be very useful when year-round residence in the House. Such designs also allow you to raise the floor level.

Features of the concrete floor

Minimum time spent on carrying out the work, compared to a full-fledged floor made of wood materials;
Reduced costs;
In order to arrange a concrete floor with your own hands, no special construction skills are required. It is enough to fill the screed according to the level. The result is a leveled surface on which any floor covering can be laid.

The disadvantages include:

A tangible load on the foundation, therefore, calculations should be carried out in advance in order to avoid problems in this area;
Small fluctuations can cause cracks in the concrete surface, which threatens with heat loss.

Features of wood construction

A wooden base, like any other, has its own advantages and disadvantages. The pluses include:

health safety, the tree does not emit any hazardous substances;
you can design any design structure;
if necessary, all work can be carried out with improvised tools and materials.

We must not forget that the floor in a wooden house will serve for many years, it is necessary to lay it in compliance with all requirements and recommendations. This will avoid floor subsidence, because then you will either have to replace the floor, or be puzzled by the question of how to raise it.

The disadvantages include:

complexity of installation;
high price;
duration of work;
the complexity of aligning the structure.

What is the construction of a wood floor?

To correctly lay the floor with your own hands, it should be borne in mind that its structure consists of a subfloor, a layer of thermal and waterproofing, a finished floor and a floor covering.

The construction can be two-layer or single. If we stele in the second way, then there may be no lag. Their presence or absence is determined by the thickness of the boards and the distance between the beams.

Sometimes it happens that a structure made of wood is influenced by various factors displaces, which leads to deformation of the subfloor. When building a multi-layer structure, the stationary state of the upper layers is ensured.

In the presence of support pillars, as well as in those cases when the beams are being inserted into the house walls, it is necessary to lay the logs in order.

How to make flooring using logs?

You can put a rough floor in a wooden house with your own hands in one of two options:

on lags;
using floor beams.

Lags allow you to raise the floor level, so it is not always rational to use them in rooms with a low ceiling. They are attached either over the foundation or to the walls of the log house. Before putting the material, the logs should be brought into the room in order to acclimatize them, where they should be for several days.
Stele as follows:

We place two of them along opposite walls and connect them with the help of nylon threads, they should be placed at a distance of one and a half meters from each other. These threads will be used as guidelines along which the remaining logs will be attached. The space between the lags is filled with a layer of insulation;
When thick boards of 30 or 40 cm are used, you can make the distance between the logs up to 0.8 m.When the boards are less than 30 cm thick, the distance between the logs needs to be reduced to 0.5-0.6 m.When the boards are thicker than 40 cm, the distance can be up to 1 m;
Using wedges made of chipboard or fiberboard, you can level the floor surface by adjusting the level of the log height. Such wedges are fixed with self-tapping screws or long nails;
When it is supposed to mount the lag on top concrete base, then fastening can be done with dowels or anchors. In no case should we forget about the treatment of lags with an antiseptic composition;
The next step is to lay and strengthen the boards. The first row is fastened with a 1.5-centimeter distance from the walls. Pre-drilling of holes for self-tapping screws is required;
The boards are stele on each of the logs, and then we fix them. The gaps that remain between the walls and the floor of the boards are closed with skirting boards. You can also use staples, they connect to the boards and are fastened with nails. The video shows how this process is carried out.

If fiberboard or chipboard is chosen as the base for the floor

Using this method, you can also raise the floor with your own hands in a wooden house. In order to lay the sub floor, you can choose plywood, chipboard or fiberboard. This material is characterized by reliability, strength, it does not lend itself to deformation. In addition, if necessary, materials such as fiberboard or chipboard can be easily dismantled and replaced.

The sheet stacking scheme must be preliminarily thought out and marked out. Then, in accordance with the markings, lay the lags. In the photo you can see an example of such a scheme.

You can use beacons to lay the floor flat. To do this, you need to install them on the entire floor surface. For these purposes, the entire area of the room is divided into squares of 30-40 cm, at the corners of which self-tapping screws are screwed. You will need a level to install the beacons. After that, you can lay the logs, on which the flooring of chipboard or fiberboard is supposed in the future.

The thickness of the chipboard or fiberboard sheets determines the distance between the lags. In general, it is not more than 40 cm. When boards are installed across the bars, they should be fixed at a distance of half a meter from each other.

From sagging lags, you can also make substrates from pieces of chipboard or fiberboard, which must be pre-lubricated with parquet glue. Impregnation of the entire floor surface with glue will prevent cracking. Between the logs and sheets of chipboard, fiberboard or plywood, we make an interlayer of moisture-proof material.

It is desirable that all the edges of the sheets used fall on the logs, and the chipboard (fiberboard) sheets themselves were laid at a distance of a couple of millimeters from each other, this is necessary in case of material deformation. The joints must be sanded to level the surface. The video shows how you can lay sheets of plywood (chipboard, fiberboard or other material).

Making a clean floor

It is best to lay a finishing floor with your own hands using grooved boards (pictured below). They imply a convenient connection with each other. When one board is attached to the previous one with a special lock.

You can adjust the boards to each other with a mallet by tapping on them. You can fix the board to the logs with long nails, which should be driven in at a slight angle, sinking the nail head into the board.

A finished floor made of grooved boards must be sanded and varnished or painted.

The arrangement of the finished floor with tongue-and-groove boards is suitable for both double and single construction. The double will certainly be significantly warmer. She should be preferred for year-round living in a wooden house. A diagram of this design can be seen in the photo.

How to lower the floor?

Owners of old houses often have to deal with the problem of low ceilings. To increase the space with your own hands, it is best to raise the ceiling. If this is not possible, the floor surface can be lowered.