Methods for processing chipboard from moisture. How to cover and treat chipboard from moisture

The chipboard is one of the most affordable building materials, so many are interested in the question of: how to impregnate this material from moisture? And, if in the summer, moisture getting into the floor has a low probability, it is formed in winter anyway. In this article we will give seld advice About how and what, soak chipboard from moisture?

Oil varnish or oil

IN soviet times best way Was, but now - special impregnating substances. Naturally, this does not mean that it is not possible to use Olifu, as protective equipment from moisture. It is allowed to apply, but to achieve high level The protection is almost impossible. Yes, and a large amount of mixture is necessary, while the working procedure will have to do several times.

Polyurethane mix

One of the most popular means for treating chipboard is a polyurethane mixture, which is similar to the primer. The impregnation is based on organic-type solvents and polymers, which during processing penetrate deep into the pores of the material. At the same time the level of strength building material significantly increases.

Nitrocellulose varnish

There is another way to protect chipboard from moisture - nitrocellulosic varnish. Its protective effect is similar to polyurethane lacquer: it forms some kind protective covering On the surface of the product, preventing moisture penetration, while resistance to damage is equivalent to the maximum indicator. The essential advantage of nitrocellulosic varnish before its predecessor is to apply a substance without pre-training workplace, but to achieve better results, we strongly recommend implementing the primer of the chipboard.

To largely protect products from chipboard, you need to use a combined method of protection. It is best, if it is not only to consist of a phase of impregnation with a deep penetration of the substance, but will also include the application of additional paints and varnishes.

More than half a century Laying chipboard on the floor is relevant when finishing outdoor coating. Continuous improvement of technology and technological processes Improves the structure and increase the quality of the chipboard.

The stove has become durable, moisture resistant, environmentally friendly. And if we take into account that the woodworking was based on the panel, then in terms of the price-quality plate out of competition with other finishing materials. As a draft floor, the base of the chipboard will serve not one decade, extending the life of the floor covering.

Characteristic and use of chipboard

The stove is made from sawmills, joinery and furniture wood waste; chips, sawdust, chips. The product uses wood - chip material of coniferous and hardwood, and a polymer thermosetting resin based on phenolofehydes is used to communicate wood particles.

The quality of the panel depends on the dosage of the resin when applied to the particles of wood, disadvantage or excess binder lead to the marriage of the product. In the process of manufacturing the plates, they are grinding, laminated, stick and apply veneer.

These panels can be separated not only the floors, but also walls and ceiling

Upon use, the product from the chipboard is divided into general and special plates (manufactured under the order).

The construction panels are used in the wall decoration, the ceiling indoors, and the chipboard on the floor is stacked as finish coating or draft base.

According to the properties that determine the use of products from the chipboard, the panels refer to the brands of P - A and P - B, distinguishable by physicomechanical indicators.

Properties of chipboard

According to its physicomechanical properties, the chipboard relating to groups P - A and P - B, depending on the components used and additives to the binder resins, differ in density, strength and water resistance to swelling.

Products of the brand P - A are used for decoration in residential areas, where the selection of phenol and formaldehyde is not exceeding from the plates of adherence to health.

Increased panels harmful substances Apply on objects as auxiliary materials or temporary designs.

Characteristics of chipboard

By the properties of the chipboard are chosen for finishing various objects. When choosing, it is important to learn everything about the manufacturer of the panels and view certificates for products where laboratory tests of samples are reflected. The table shows the indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of constantly manufactured products.

When choosing a chipboard for use in a house or apartment, check the product for phenol and formaldehyde as part of the resin in order to prevent the use of panels with harmful discharges.

Draft floor of chipboard on lags

In wet premises, chipboards quickly come into disrepair

Using chip plateAs foundations for flooring, justified economically and technically. But, applying panels, consider the conditions of operation of products. Indoor where humidity is above 60%, and the temperature is below 10 ° C, the plates will burst and destroy.

This applies to the laying of panels on the concrete floor of the first floors. multi-storey houses. And the draft floor from the chipboard on the lags, correct solution For long-term operation of the plates. Raised over concrete base from the plates creates a flat surface on which the coating will last no less than the regulatory period.

Procedure for performing work

Scheme stacking chipboard

Before laying a lag, prepare the concrete floor, align the surface concrete screed. We put the beams on the concrete and connect jumpers to the hard frame.

There is a thermal insulation between lags and jumpers, which, together with the flooring of the chipboard, is created by the heat and sound insulation of the base. A draft floor from DSP with their own hands is easy to assemble, given the procedure for a step by step instruction:

After dismantling the old floor, align the surface of the concrete base based on the beacon with a tonet mixture.
On the dried screed, we apply primer and check laser level horizontal surface of the base. Then spreads out polyethylene film for protection wooden carcass With insulation from damp concrete. The ranks of the film are placed in a mustache and connect scotch.
Lags and jumpers are coated with antiseptic solution and mounted on the concrete floor. The step between lags is 400 mm. Lagging section T shaped, to increase the surface of the beam when docking panels. Topboard, 100 mm wide., Fixed on top to beam and is the basis for docking the plates.
Between themselves, the lags are connected by jumpers, which are attached to the lags with metal corners and screws. Collected design It is checked with a level on the horizontality of each lag. With the deviation of the horizontality, under the lags plastic plates In the seized places.
After installation, the design of the beams is filled with insulation, on a pre-laid waterproofing film. The insulation is stacked between lags, with a gap 3 cm to the upper edge of the design.
Mixed insulation plates are covered vaporizolation filmwhich is attached to the lags of the stapler brackets. The joints of the rows of the film are stuck with scotch, so that the moisture does not penetrate the insulation.
The chipboard for the floor is laid on the lags according to the scheme prepared when creating a project. The floor from the slab is laid in a checker order, the docking of the panels is performed on lags placed taking into account the size of the chipboard sheets. The first row of plates is steleing along the wall opposite to the entrance to the room and fixed to the beams by self-drawing. So that hardware did not protrude above the panels, the holes in the products under the screws are drilled and cencing. The second row is placed with the displacement of the span between lags, the panel is cut on the span size panel. The remaining rows are stacked in the same sequence in a checker order. The draft floor is laid with a compensating gap of the walls of 1.5 cm, which affects the changing moisture in the room.
After graduating from the assembly of products, the joints of the panels are watched with a putty and the surface of the flooring is ground. On the perimeter of the room, along the walls, the Plinth compensation clearance is closed. Plinth is fixed to the walls of the room. On how to mount the coating on the lags, see this video:
Durable and rigid frame from bars and jumpers, tightly pressed against the walls of the room and is not attached to concrete base Anchors.

The use of a frame from the beams, for the base of the flooring, allows you to separate the flooring from the chipboard from concrete overlap And insulate the floor, keeping heat in the room.

Paul from chipboard on a wooden base

Align the floor chipboard is not difficult
Any flooring is placed on the wooden floor, but floors laid on a reliable and even base will be able to serve the normative time. This base serves old restored sex racks or a chipboard.

Alignment of the floor chipboard - the task is simple and performed on its own. Getting to work with the repair of old wooden base. We check the lags and sex racks for the presence of rot, wormochin, mechanical damage and replace the defective. Lags are coated with antiseptic solution, floorboards we split so that there are no cracks left.

Wooden coating stroke the electrician, remove old paint and align the surface. After checking the horizontal surface with a laser level, the base is ground.

Lags for base frame and floor board for flooring applied with humidity no higher than 12%. Before mounting, materials are processed by an antiseptic.

Laying chipboard on the floor, prepared by the old flooring of sex rack, is performed according to the scheme in which the calculated number of plates is reflected. The layout of the panel layout on the floor of the room is made in a checker order and provides a compensation clearance of 1.5 cm flooring from a chipboard from the walls of the room.

Before assembling the floor covering under the chipboard, we put a jute substrate to level the errors of the wooden base and save the air exchange between the flooring from the panels and the wooden floor. Installation of chipboard on the floor We start with the processing of plates of oil and drill on the panels of holes under fastening screws, cover the edges of the plates silicon hermetic.

Plates are laid from a long corner
We put the plates from the corner of the wall opposite to the entrance to the room, squeezing the rows of the cligs laid down. The plates of the first row through the prepared holes with self-drawers are attached to wooden semi With a clearance from a wall of 1.5 cm.

So that the joints of the plates do not coincide in the rows, 2 row are placed with a shear on half the plates. One slab we saw in half and put the sealant on the ends. Half plates Stelim at the beginning and end of the row. A row compress the mounting wedges and screw the panels with self-draws to a wooden base.

The rest of the chipboard is staggered. If in the diagram is provided, then the last row of plates cut to put it tightly to the wall. At the end of laying the flooring, we close the compensation clearance by the plinth, screw to the walls of the room. On how to align the floor with plates of this material, see this video:
If the chipboard coating was provided as facial, then the plates are coated with two layers of wear-resistant varnish and after drying the lacquer coating is ready to operate. And if the use of flooring from the plates as a rough floor is provided, then it is placed on it laminate or linoleum.

For long-term operation of the floor covering, the base of concrete, a frame of bars or floor board is performed without deviating from step-by-step instructions.

Greetings to you! Perhaps you know the situation when kitchen set From water turns into a bunch of firewood. Laminate becomes loose and loses its original shape. It is necessary to eliminate the cause of damage and replace damaged, there is no other way to save the headsets.

Risk zone

And to prevent such a situation, it is important when assembling to perform simple actions. First of all, we protect the cabinet under the sink and the wardrobe with the dishwasher, the modules are directly in contact with water. In the latter, it is desirable to install frame facades with a grille for air circulation.

The risk zone also includes snubs with dishwasher and washing machine. I recommend making such modules such as moisture-proof material. If the situation does not allow it to do, then we use a sanitary, transparent sealant. This is a reliable protection against moisture of your kitchen.

Sealant transparent

For more than 10 years experience with him, there was no possibility to doubt his reliability. But unfortunately in stores there are along with good and low-quality goods. In order to check the sealant properties, you need to leave the droplet when room temperature for three hours.

If the drop froze well (it has a rubber-like consistency), then you purchased a quality product. If the drop does not save his form (leaves tracks in the hands), then the time of frozen will have to increase to a minimum of 12 hours.

Before assembling modules

Before assembling modules entering the risk area, it is necessary to thoroughly ignite with silicone all the non-crumpled ends on the details. And then, while the sealant has not frozen, proceed to the assembly. Thus, you can protect inaccessible for hands, but available for water items.

We draw attention to the design of the cabinet with disassembly. If it has aluminum planks, then everything is in order. If not, then in no case we do not produce these parts from LDSP, because they are unrecognizable. For these purposes, it is necessary to apply wooden planks.

In walking distance from you, placed on the calculation of cabinet furniture.

Protection countertops from moisture

Go to the protection of the main part - countertop. Moisture-resistant table tops look great, but here the manufacturer gives only a whole countertop. In the event that you saw it, which is necessarily necessary, then the guarantees for the fact that it will not swell from moisture, no.

Be sure to siliconym the end tables before fastening the connective plank. And do not regret silicone, the surplus is removed with a damp cloth. Postforming (facial rounded end) has a kipplesball, which prevents water from entering the lower stands. There is nothing to worry about.

The only thing I would recommend, during the installation of making a small roll of table tops on the level not to the wall, but to the hostess. For spontaneous water stack from the table. And in order to completely eliminate the penetration of water, I will tell you how I mount the closed plinth on the tabletop.

My way of protection against moisture

First of all, laying a silicone layer between the wall and the table. Then I attract the base of the plinth. The genesis laying the joints of the base with the wall and with the table top, i.e. in two places. And only then fix the facial part of the plinth. Through such protection, the water does not slip, checked!

Layer at the junction of the false and countertops

Layer at the junction of the base with a raised panel and a layer at the junction with a tabletime

And only then the facial part

Washing

Installation should be performed with special care and patience. When buying, be sure to pay attention to the locks and tongues on the sink to which they are attached. Castles should be chosen fixed, i.e. It should be possible to snap into the tongues, and not just cling.

Castles play the main role when installing the washing and the life of the entire headset depends on the fastener. And therefore, without a hustle, we carry out the sink thoroughly drank and put on the perimeter good layer. After fastening the washing, we remove the surplus with a damp cloth.

Similar way to mounted and cook surface. The likeness is expressed in sufficient sealant. I drank carefully, also a layer around the perimeter. After connecting to communications, lay the cooking. After 12 hours it will not be possible to tear off the tabletop.

Protection Base

If the cuisine is not plastic, but is made of laminate, then slow down (dying, fasten) to the bottom edge of the base, it will reliably protect the bottom part of the part from the moisture, after all, wet attacks on the headset occur on the floor.

After installation, do not connect water immediately. We are waiting at least 12 hours so that all the joints froze. It's not afraid if you made a big puddle on the tabletop - wiped and forgotten. It is important not to leave the water on the table top for the night. Elementary accuracy will extend the life of your furniture.

Conclusion

These are all recommendations for preventing trouble from bulk kitchen. If your headsets are already a booze, then it can be cured only by the "surgical" method. Be careful, do not leave modules and working surface wet overnight. And then your favorite cuisine will delight you for more than a dozen years.

If you need the detailing of cabinet and built-in furniture, please contact. We will definitely discuss the terms of cooperation and come to a common opinion. For a reasonable percentage for his work, I, on the designated time frame.

What would you like to add to this article?

Tell me about your experience in the comments.

I will be very interested to listen to your stories!

With good thoughts about you, always in sawdust 🙂

Reong Dmitry.

Adhesive tape prevents splitting the surface layer of the plate during sawing. Manual saw Need to post with a maximum tilt.

Protective edge - sad sight. Especially she rushes into the eyes on the plates painted in white.

The chips and the artificial resin create a strong compound when pressing, but with a certain processing, the chips can split. For example, on the edge of the cut, at the site of drilling, when planing and processing the rashpil. Fibers natural tree Long and tighter connected with each other. That is why you need to turn more carefully with a chipboard.

How to cut the chipboard

For these purposes, almost any saw will suit. Just lead it under very sharp angle To the surface of the plate, that is, attaching the saw almost flat to the surface. Disk and inuchic saw blade with a slight feed, only slightly pressed. It will also reduce the risk of forming a breaking line of the cut. It is desirable, of course, to use a saw with the most small teeth. Adhesive tape can also become additional protection, which is pulled along the cut slicer line. This is usually recommended for wood coated chipboard.

Another advice: saw, not in a hurry. Excessive hasty can lead to such a result that uneven, with chips, the edge of one part forms an ugly joint on the other. By the way, the coating can be protected from splitting, if you cut it off with a sharp knife - the deeper, the better.

Drilling, Rashpil Processing and Planing

Dumb or working with limited drill speed, as a rule, split the edges of the drilled hole. Only choosing a good drill, and correctly leading the tool, you can avoid damage.

With smooth pure cut additional treatment No need. And here circular Saw It can leave the irregularities that need to be removed by a rashpyl or a planer.

Raspil (or plans) lead along the edge carefully, as when working with a tree, and from outside To the inner, so that the chips did not break down, and the edge after the stripping did not seem even more inaccier.

For plates covered with film, the plates are suitable. The one who works with the plane seems too difficult, can take advantage of a file.

Surface treatment

There are two methods of decorative surface treatment of wood products and wood-chipboard - varnish or cladding coating. Varnish covered, as a rule, wooden surfaces, chipboard from aesthetic considerations - extremely rarely, only when it is necessary to "reflect" not very impressive appearance Plates or finished products.

Before coating, the surface should be placed.

Even with a polished factory, the surface of the chipboard must be placed and grind, before applying lacquer on it. Tiny, barely noticeable damage can clearly manifest itself under the lacquer film, and it will only worsen the appearance of the product.

The putty is applied evenly with a spatula, and after drying, the surface is treated with sandpaper. The result of this preparatory work There should be an absolutely smooth surface, and then there is enough single layer of varnish to form a flawless film.

If after application of the varnish, some errors were discovered, then before re-coating the surface should be slightly polished with sandpaper.

Glue coat.

Choosing coatings for chipboard is very large. Who has special requests relative to the color, it is better to use the film.

Films are produced in wide color gamma and with a variety of decor, besides, they are usually treated with adhesive composition, which simplifies works on the decoration of the plates. Since the film coating is very thin, then the carrier surface must be pre-polished before pulling the film.

Sheet layered plastic, thicker and more wear-resistant. It is glued with a special glue, which is applied to the carrier surface of the plate and on the coating.

The coating of layered plastic makes a chipboard attractive and simultaneously protects it from various influences.

Surface protection

If you bought or made furniture made of chipboard, the composition of which is unknown to you, it is better to take additional measures to protect your health.

Protection with varnish.

Formaldehyde evaporation can be stopped by applying a new coating on the furniture. This layer should be thick enough. So, varnished coatAt least two layers prevent further evaporation of formaldehyde.

Films and leaf layered plastic also protect the surface. Here you need to pay attention to the joints: they should be more dense.

The protective material can be a plywood, but not any. Some types of plywood are made using adhesive composition, in which all the same formaldehyde is present. Therefore, it is desirable and to handle - cover with varnish.

Matter and wallpaper.

Absolutely inappropriate material for protection against formaldehyde isolation are matter and wallpapers. They are porous and therefore cannot serve as reliable protection.

Carpet, as well as glue used during its laying, can also highlight formaldehyde. If the relevant services during the inspection found an increased concentration of evaporation dangerous to health, it is necessary to find out exactly which material is the source before accusing wood and stove and start new processing their surfaces.

Edbles

The edge is applied narrow strip of plastic. Iron contributes to gluing.

The slice of chipboard looks not very beautiful, and, more importantly, it exposes the loose, the most vulnerable inner layer. Also, when the edge of the cut may be damaged and severely pressure. Therefore, the edge must be protected.

The simplest, but in most cases there is quite reliable protection - gluing with a not highly heated iron plastic ribbon from adhesive coating or veneer plate.

Planks made of wood.

The edges of the slab subjected to the greatest loads need best defense. Ensure it will help thin planks made of wood. In color, they must be harmonized with coated plate. After gluing the plank, separately or together with the stove, you need to cover with varnish or some other protective composition.

Even a 5-mm plank is an effective edge protection. A wider bar will also prevent the bending of the stove.

Low cost chipboard, high performance features, the versatility of application made them very popular material. The most frequent scope of application - furniture manufacturing and construction. The main enemy of these plates is water - the chips increases in the amount, the stove swells, it brends and crushes.

At the very beginning of the production of sawdust and chips after drying, they are impregnated with formaldehyde resins. After pressing the surface of the slabs is laminated, sometimes even lacquer.

But the surface protection does not save from the penetration of moisture ends, through which it enters inside. Accumulating inside, water gradually begins to penetrate the wood fibers, which leads to the destruction of the plate. Consequently, from liquid penetration during operation, it is necessary to save the first ends.

If they are tightly sealed, the service life of the plates will increase.

In the photo - the consequences of water impact on the worktop from the chipboard

Why exactly the ends are the starting platform for destruction? Yes, because the production of the plates of the necessary standard sizesEqually, as well as the preparation of different magnesium pieces of material requires cutting. In this case, the integrity of the wood fibers is disturbed.

Thus, the protection of chipboard from moisture is carried out in three areas:

impregnation of wood fibers resins;
special surface treatment;
sealing ends.

The first step along the path of moisture resistance

Already at the beginning production of chipboard The process is carried out to protect them from the penetration of water - the so-called shavy routine. Thanks to this operation, two goals are achieved - the saturation of the fibers of resins and their gluing. For most of the plates manufactured, formaldehyde resins are used, already by definition that are a hydrophobic component of the product.

Green splashes in chipboard - special water repellent components

In cases where there is still a large moisture resistance from the plates, another binder is used, that is, the formaldehyde resin is replaced with urea and amelaminic. It glues the shavips much more stronger, thereby being a stronger obstacle on the path of moisture. With an additional introduction into a chip carpet of molten paraffin or its emulsion, the moisture resistance of the chipboard is still increasing.

Treatment of surface plates

Facial and reverse plates as the most large squares Contribution, without any protection can skip through itself and soak, respectively, the greatest amount of fluid. It will not be superfluous to cover these planes with something moisture proof. Some of the ways of such a coverage are possible only in factory conditions, some - and home.

One of the main protection methods is lamination. With it on the polished chipboard when high pressure And the melamine film is placed in a large temperature. The essence of this process is not in pressing, but in the fact that in these conditions the film polymerizes the surface of the plate, becoming one with it one.

There is another way performed in the factory conditions - this is a caring. It also uses pressure and heating, but more gentle. Already culled film pressed to the coated with a glue plate. If lamination is chemical process, Cashing is mechanical.

Components of laminated chipboard

At home, a non-aluminated chipboard is covered to protect multiple layers of paint. Before painting the surface is pre-treated:

from the surface, dust swears and erases;
for the first fold plate, the hot oil is launched;
next, this is done by the cold olphoi before the formation of the outer crust;
painting is made on top. For any ways to paint, it is necessary to remember that each subsequent paint layer is applied to the already dried previous one.

There are several more ways to protect against fling. For example, a surface that will not be subject to mechanical exposure, it can be protected like this: rub the stearin, then heat the hairdryer. Give cool, and repeat it a couple more times. Or: one part of the bitumen varnish is prevented with five parts of the oil. The coating is carried out twice.

Treatment of joints and edges

Water is always looking for the lowest place, deepening.

And what, if not deepening, are the joints on horizontal planes? Especially many such joints in the cabinet furniture, which is performed just from the chipboard. Kitchen furniture is generally like on advanced: and water with excess, and evaporation is enough.

How to treat Phaneur, chipboard and wood to protect against moisture?

Most exposed to moisture washing, wardrobe with drying, countertop, furniture near and over the kitchen stove.

Cranes all once begin to leak. So in the car wash the most promising dangerous place where the mixer is crashed in the worktop. This is the place of contact of the metal and wood. Perhaps not only the leakage of the crane, but also the condensation of water at the point of contact. Therefore, this place is cleaned, dried with a hairdryer. Next is applied by a layer of PVA glue, after drying Silicone. Can building sealant, it is also a silicone mass, it is even window Rama Sealish.

The edge not only protects the chipboard from the effects of moisture, but also reduces the emissions of harmful substances

In the kitchen cabinet, check the presence or absence of a pallet: if it is not, then the liquid, stacking to the bottom of the locker, will ruin it. For all kitchen furniturewhere it is possible to wet, you need to take yourself as a rule: degrease this place and then do not regret the sealant.

For seams of seams, it is better to use the sanitary silicone of a suitable shade: dark mold spots will not appear on the surface.

Narmuminized edges of the table top are closed by connecting or end planks. They are metal or plastic. The defense is not so, so pre-end the countertops should be treated with silicone. Another way of protection is to apply a cut-off lacquer or pva glue. Offered building market Self-adhesive films or tape are impossible to name.

Inserting the joints of the chipboard on the floor

The difficulty lies in the fact that the plates are constantly subjected to significant physical LoadsThey "play" relative to each other. For this reason, the shtatlevka does not want to keep. There are several people's methods Sealing such seams.

The seams are smeared with epoxy mixed with sawdust. Sawdles are pre-sifted. The composition is collapsed very quickly, so immediately big volume There is no such smelting to harvest. Such protection serves a long time and reliably. But the price of epoxy is high, and seams are expensive.

It is possible to replace the epoxy of hot joinery glue. It is necessary to mix in it sawdust and walk along the seams.

The effect is achieved even greater than with epoxy, since hot glue penetrates deep into. This method and moisture saves, and the joke stops "playing". True, several days for this floor, it is advisable not to walk, as the joinery is driving long.

It costs such a way much cheaper. And if the floor is still covered with linoleum, then about damage plate chipboard In general, you can forget.

Perhaps you will be interested to know

How can I protect the chipboard panels from moisture

Until now, the chipboard is widely used when repairs. After all, these plates are universal. They are suitable for alignment of walls, ceiling, styling dry screed, creating interior partitions etc. But if the chipboard is planned to be installed in the kitchen or in the bathroom, certain measures should be taken to protect it from moisture. What ways are available in this case? Main approaches will be discussed below.

1. Processing chipboard olifoy

From the most simple methods You should call the applying of the Olifa on the chipboard plate. Most often, this method is used when the chipboard is planned to be placed on the floor when creating a draft screed. On the main part of the plates of the Olifu are applied by two layers. On the ends of the slab chipboard, Olifu should be applied at least three times, because in these areas it will be especially intensively absorbed.

To increase the moisture resistance of the DSP panels in Olif, you can add a bit of bitumen varnish. It is enough 1 part of the varnish on 5 parts of the oil.

2. Painting the chipboard of chipboard glue

Increase waterproof chillery indicators will be able to cover it with PVA glue. This method is treated in almost any situation. That is, the slab treated in this way can be used to align surfaces and mounting partitions. But you can start working only after the glue is completely dry.

It is desirable that the panels are also processed at least twice. Moreover, glue composition It can play the role of primer, so in the future it will be easier to apply plaster, putty or paint.

Impregnation of chipboard - smell protection

Warming chipboard protective film

Another successful way to protect the chipboard from moisture becomes adhesive protective film. It does not just protect the material from contact with moisture, and further improves its appearance. That is, the self-adhesive film performs the decorative function. The owner remains to pick up a suitable sample and stick it correctly. To do this, the panel should be cleared of pollution and dust, eliminate protective layer From the film and perform her sticking. Special sets are installed on the ends decorative corners With water resistant qualities.

Each method has its advantages. And the owner who will be able to correctly perform work will receive the chipboard panels, reliably protected from moisture. Then ready Material It will be possible to use when working even in those rooms, which differ in not the most favorable operational conditions.

Treat the tabletop, or rather drank under the woiler panel, the sink is possible with the help of a metal scotch. The effect is simply class, it will probably be a tabletop faster.

What to protect the feet of wardrobes from LDSP from moisture?

But as always, but. Material is easily injured, and quite (tearingly carefully) time consuming can do not really like the assemblers on this, and maybe someone does not know. As they say the eyes are afraid, and their hands do.

P.S. Scotch base Aluminum foil.

—————————————————————————————
Oliflats are paint-forming materials based on recycled vegetable oils. In the composition of natural oil, the exclusively drying vegetable oils (linen, hemp, sometimes add sunflower oil) and sequivos. Syccats are manganese, cobalt, lead carboxylic salts that accelerate the drying process. Organic solvents are adding organic solvents - White spirit, ski *****, Solovent oil. Oxidized olifes are obtained by heating linen or heating oil to 150-160 degrees with stirring and transmitting sequivations through them. Such olifes have greater viscosity, increased resistance, glitter, more dark colorthan natural. Compacted olifes, in contrast to natural, are obtained with a longer thermal processing At a temperature of about 300 degrees.

A fungus appears on silicone coatings over time.

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How to protect chipboard from water?

Paly. July 21, 2004. 16:35:58	Good day! There was a problem, scattering a dskey frame of a kitchen from leakage. The bromes were illuminated, but it did not help. I think there was a violated technology, or a bad chipboard. Kitchen producers changed the frame, but in order to avoid the problem I want to pre-process the edges. I tried to smell liquid nails Sliced \u200b\u200bchipboard and put the processed end in a bowl with water, overnight scatter ...: (((Advise, what means is it better to use to seal edges? Good luck Pavel
Shadow. (Moscow) July 21, 2004. 18:06:44	2 paul: grate open areas with silicone sealant
Shadow. (Moscow) July 21, 2004. 18:10:32	2 Paul: Sorry - under open areas Understand unplanned portions of the frame. In addition, nothing prevents you from wagging to those sealant and the cable edges - the silicone film will definitely not miss the water.
Paly. July 21, 2004. 20:10:49	2Shandow: rubbed the silicone sealant of the particle chipboard (cutout under the sink) - to hold badly: ((I think it will be even worse on the laminated surface ... here you need something penetrating-try parquet lacquer. But I will inform the results. Good luck Pavel
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 22, 2004. 01:31:38	2Pal: Olifa soak several times. Best regards, Sergei
Paly. July 22, 2004. 08:31:15	The varnish did not help the sample left in the water for the night of swakes: (( 2 serg: Today I will try Olif ... Good luck Pavel
Shrek (Tomsk) July 22, 2004. 10:15:46	IMHO, if the chipboard in the water is to leave for the night, then at least he is so much will swell.
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 23, 2004. 00:18:13	2Pal: You can apply heated in a water bath - it will be better to absorb. Best regards, Sergei
TRIX (SPB) July 23, 2004. 11:33:23	Yeah. And under pressure. Then the class is generally. Only anyway will not help much. The chipboard is badly impregnated. The binder does not give impregnation to go deep into. And water is such a CCHchchch that climbs into all the cracks, pores and TP and smells materials. You can search for hydrophobic mixtures of type liquid silicone. Under it will not swell. But this is not suitable for furniture.
Shrek (Tomsk) July 23, 2004. 12:45:21	What else thought :) ... How can I cover chipboard for waterproof? If such a means it would be, then manufacturers of kitchens from chipboard would have been used :). IMHO, Bescalezno good tool Search. Only impregnation with oil and not to fill with water :).
Serg (Samara, Russia) July 24, 2004. 00:50:45	2TRIX: Application of olifa, heated in a water bath, is a standard reception. \u003e DSP is poorly impregnated. From the cut slicer, the slab is impregnated quite well. This tool is - immediately place all the technological holes and then stick the melamate - and on rear wall also. The front, the rolled end does not cause any questions - so with the rear you need to do the same. Best regards, Sergei Best regards, Sergei