How to plaster the window slopes outside. Fast and correct plastering of window slopes

How to plaster the slopes on the windows? It really is important question for people who have never encountered it. This kind finishing works does not require much knowledge and experience. But the process must be treated with special responsibility and accuracy, which will allow even a beginner to qualitatively plaster window slopes. In this article I will tell you how to properly plaster the slopes with your own hands.

Required tools and materials

Plastering like another kind construction works, requires preliminary execution preparatory work as well as cooking the necessary tool and material.

Material and tool:

plaster (it can be ready-made, or you can prepare it yourself in the form cement mortar);
goniometer (desirable);
aluminum rule;
construction level;
tape measure and pencil;
window corner;
spatulas (it is better when there are several of them and necessarily 5 cm), one of them must be rubber or plastic;
container for liquid and solution;
construction trowel;
hammer pickaxe;
pencil;
paint brush.

To execute necessary work do it yourself as correctly and efficiently as possible, it is not enough just to have this list of tools. The point is that you need to know every nuance of the process. For example, a very long level will only get in the way. For work, it is better to use a tool no longer than one meter.

Sometimes, before starting to plaster the slopes with your own hands, it will be useful to stock up on a knife and a gun for applying sealant. You may also have to stock up on polyurethane foam. In the event that preliminary work has not been carried out and there are gaps between the frame, they need to be blown out with foam.

As for the material, in the case when you will use as finishing material ready solution made of cement, you will definitely need a grater and a half-grater. And if other types are involved, then prepare a medium spatula (up to about 45 centimeters), a spongy grater and trowels different sizes(desirable).

Also prepare a ladder (stepladder). Better yet is the building goat. By the way, making it with your own hands is not at all difficult.

Step-by-step instruction

Finishing window slopes do it yourself means performing preliminary work, without which further work does not make sense.

First, remove any gaps that may be between frame structure and a slope. For this, you can use polyurethane foam. Do not spare the material, it is important to get rid of them. Thus, you will not only save on the solution, but also keep the heat in the house.

Prepare surfaces. There should be no marks on them and greasy stains, especially oil paint... The surface should not have a smooth base, as the plaster will not adhere firmly to it. Remove all protrusions with a pick or hammer. If the window is new, then it is advisable to protect it from the ingress of solution.

Plastering of slopes should be carried out at a temperature of at least five degrees.

Prepare the finishing mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. You don't need to cook it a lot, otherwise you won't have time to use it all. It will freeze and have to be thrown away.

How to plaster the slopes on the windows? Follow the step-by-step instructions:

Choice of a skylight. You can arrange it at a right angle, but it will give less light, but you can make the so-called "dawn angle". To do this, you will need to prepare a special template (malka), made with your own hands from a piece of plywood or old plastic window sill... Its width should be slightly larger than the width of the slope. Cut it off at an angle so that you get a straight and sharp edge.
Layout and preparation. Slopes should be plastered from the markings, this is necessary so that all sides are symmetrical. For ease of marking, you can use a protractor. It is necessary to mark a line on the bottom of the opening so that one centimeter of deviation falls on every ten centimeters of depth. These points are indicated at the bottom and top of our opening. Preparation consists in removing the old layer of plaster and other cement-sand materials from the surface. And also the application of a deep impregnation primer to increase the adhesion of the new layer to the surface.
Vapor barrier. Typically after installation plastic windows for insulation, polyurethane foam is used. After drying, its excess must be cut off with a knife. Next, all the joints need to be glued vapor barrier film or treat with a sealant. Such a vapor barrier will prevent the appearance of fogging of insulating glass units during strong temperature changes. This is especially important if your installed plastic windows are not of the best quality.
Installation of metal corners. On gypsum mortar you need to install a painting corner, which will reinforce the plaster and protect the corners of the structure from mechanical damage.
Installation of beacons. Lighthouses are a kind of straight and wide slats. They have nothing to do with lighthouses, which are used for floor concreting and brick laying. They are installed on inner side walls by screwing or nailing exactly according to the marks that were marked with the goniometer. Rather, they act as limiters, since their edges create a boundary for the new layer of plaster. To get an accurate slope, you need to set the slats exactly according to the marks.
Plaster. The mortar is applied in small portions along the established beacons with pressing movements. All irregularities on the surface are sealed with the first layer. Let the first layer dry. After that, filling the gap between the rails begins. The procedure and the amount of mortar depend on the depth of this opening. Filling must be performed in several approaches. For cement-sand mortar optimal thickness the first approach is 6 centimeters thick. After the opening is filled with a solution (preferably with a slide), it must be leveled with a rule. Basically, the alignment takes place in one motion.

After all the openings are filled and leveled, you need to allow time for the solution to harden. When it dries, the guide rails are removed and their places are sealed with mortar.

If the solution remains in the bucket, then it can be diluted with water and applied in a thin layer - this will do new finish stronger and protects the slope from cracking after complete drying.

How to plaster the slopes with your own hands? Now this is not a mystery to you. I wish you success in your endeavors.

Video "Plastering window slopes"

On the record, the master shows how to properly plaster the window slope. After watching this post, you can easily complete this process with your own hands.

Making door slopes is a mandatory part overhaul or finishing of a newly built house. Classic design today one can consider their plastering. Although this method takes a lot of time, it is the most reliable: with such a finish, no voids remain. Although this is not an easy task, if the technology is observed, plastering the slopes with your own hands can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

We plaster the slopes with our own hands: if the technology is followed, everything will work out

How to plaster the slopes

Plastering slopes for the door can be made using different compositions:

What kind of plaster is better to plaster the slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.

Technology

Slope plastering begins after the surface of the main walls has been leveled. The work is going to be dirty, therefore it is desirable door leaf, cover the floor and door frame with foil, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Preparation

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, remove poorly adhered plaster, pieces of brick, other building material... If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if she holds up well, she is knocked down.

If the old plaster sticks out strongly, it is chipped

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Peels off also old paint: the plaster does not adhere well. After - dust and dirt are cleaned off.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do it now. Polyurethane foam applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), cut off the excess with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with an ordinary stationery for paper.

Do-it-yourself installation of door slopes begins with sealing the gaps between the door frame and the wall

If plastering will be cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or with a brush or roller.

Setting up the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, to obtain an even and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Once well secured, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, since during work this edge for some reason always bulges up and causes a lot of inconvenience.

There are several ways to fix the corner:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take a flat bar (you can use building level or rule), apply it to the corner, checking how even the corner is exposed. Check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by sliding your finger along the junction.

There is another way of attaching the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but when plastering it is not used: the hats get in the way.

When plastering door slopes, it is convenient to use a template

Second guide - doorjamb... When installing the doors, they were exposed exactly, so this is a good reference point. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: both the edge is smooth, and it slides well, and quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wood plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove the excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

Slope plastering can be carried out along the guides

In this video lesson on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given on the technique of applying putty for finishing.

DIY rough plaster of slopes

The process of applying plaster to the slope is no different: a solution is poured onto a dust-free and moistened surface. Do it with a wide spatula or a painting bucket - as you are used to. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.

Leading with a rule or pattern along the guides, swinging from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, it is possible not to achieve a particularly flat surface, but it is imperative to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is final

Some problems can arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressing, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there are usually no problems. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, mortar, especially cement-sandy, "sticks" badly. In this case, you need to pre-soak it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

Processing may be required even if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker brick, for example). Only in this case, the primer should further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special formulations Knauf - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile glue to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive adheres remarkably to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.

If all this seems very difficult to you, read the article on how to make slopes from MDF. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortar or spatula needed and the result is great. Or you can make plasterboard slopes. The view is almost the same, but to do faster. After installing plastic windows, you can make plastic slopes.

Finishing layer

After a while, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled by applying a second finishing layer. Too early to start leveling it is impossible - the solution "floats", loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not float.

For a fine leveling, the mortar is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is flat. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Secrets of smooth plaster: pull the rule not evenly, but in zigzags

Grout

This stage creates a perfectly flat surface. It is possible to rub the plaster only after the solution has set. For this, at least 16-24 hours must pass (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if grouting can start, take some mortar from the wall with your fingers and rub. If it crumbles, you can work, if it is smeared, we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or a template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this float, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monochromatic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be putty. But this way your do-it-yourself plaster of slopes takes on a finished look. But once again, this is not necessary.

This video describes how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If the slope is painted further, the putty is aligned perfectly. For this, two layers are applied: starting and finishing. Starter putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After finishing putty dries, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for gluing wallpaper. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If, when installing the door, the old slopes were slightly damaged and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. You only need to throw a solution into the cavity and level it with a long trowel (spatula).

Doorway plaster

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and methods of their installation are different.

Plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).

The guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second on the left, they are fixed. It is most convenient to secure them with clamps. If there are no clamps, powerfully use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

To plaster a doorway, two guides are needed, which are installed on both sides

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the base on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.

The design of door slopes is an obligatory part of a major overhaul or decoration of a newly built house. Plastering can be considered a classic design today. Although this method takes a lot of time, it is the most reliable: with such a finish, no voids remain. Although this is not an easy task, if the technology is observed, plastering the slopes with your own hands can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

How to plaster the slopes

What kind of plaster is better to plaster the slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. What is preferable for you is up to you.

Technology

Slope plastering begins after the surface of the main walls has been leveled. The work to be done is dirty, therefore it is advisable to close the door leaf, floor and door frame with a film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Preparation

The first stage of work is surface preparation. First, remove poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material. If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if she holds up well, she is knocked down.

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also peeled off: the plaster does not adhere well to it. After - dust and dirt are cleaned off.

If the cracks were not foamed when installing the door, you will need to do it now. Polyurethane foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), cut off the excess with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with an ordinary stationery for paper.

If the plastering will be a cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray bottle or with a brush or roller.

Setting up the guides

There are several ways to fix the corner:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution protruding through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how even the corner is exposed. Check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by sliding your finger along the junction.

There is another way of attaching the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but when plastering it is not used: the hats get in the way.

The second guide is the doorframe. When installing the doors, they were exposed exactly, so this is a good reference point. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: both the edge is smooth, and it slides well, and quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wood plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess mortar should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove the excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

In this video lesson on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, and explanations are given on the technique of applying putty for finishing.

DIY rough plaster of slopes

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is final

Processing may also be required if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case, the primer should further reduce moisture absorption. The second way out is to use special Knauf compounds - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile glue to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive adheres remarkably to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as an excellent base.

If all this seems very difficult to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortar or spatula needed and the result is great. Or you can do it. The view is almost the same, but to do faster. Then you can.

Finishing layer

Grout

This video describes how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If the slope is painted further, the putty is aligned perfectly. For this, two layers are applied: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After the finishing putty dries, all irregularities and protrusions are sanded with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for gluing wallpaper. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

Doorway plaster

Plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the selection principle is the same).

Where it was about machine plastering, there is not a word about how to plaster the slopes. This was done on purpose, because this issue deserves a separate description, and I will try to highlight it today, in detail and intelligibly.

In our case, when plastering an apartment in Kiev, machine plaster was used - a gypsum mixture MP-75. She also went to the slopes. If you use cement-sand mixture, then the tool and fixtures are the same, and I will try to describe the differences in technology in the course of the article.

As usual, the foundation needs to be prepared. If necessary, knock down the exfoliated areas old plaster, in the new masonry - chop off pieces of mortar that are strongly protruding from the seams.

Before applying the plaster mixture, the slopes should be primed. A description of the primers, for which surfaces they are used and even instructions for use can be seen in.

If you plaster with a cement-sand mortar (DSP), then you do not need to primer, the surface is simply moistened with water. How to do it? Yes, what is at hand - with a roller, a brush, you can simply spray water with your hand, but we sprayed it with a household sprayer. Just close the window with something so that you don't have to wash it.

The next step is to install corner plaster profiles. The profile is made of galvanized metal and looks like this.

It is installed by analogy with lighthouses, on gypsum mortar (Rotband, MP-75), but it requires more time, since it is leveled in two planes simultaneously - both in the plane of the wall and in the plane of the slope.

First, the vertical position of the profile is achieved in one plane, then, trying not to move it relative to this position, they are level in another plane.

Along with this, it is necessary to achieve such a position of the profile in which the plaster square (90 degrees), attached to the plane of the window (door) frame and aligned with its corner with the edge of the box, will touch its second side corner profile... In, as bent ... the photo will make it clearer:

If there are several window or doorways, then the corner profiles are placed first on the rightmost and leftmost slopes, time is kept for them to freeze, and then intermediate profiles are installed and aligned in the plane using the rule according to already established profiles.

When the corner profiles are installed, they are plaster beacons, both for the wall and for the slopes, protecting the corners from mechanical damage.

And this is the back side:

There is adhesive tape on both sides of the strip, which is protected by paper strips. During installation, the strips are removed, and back side the strip is glued to the window frame. And a stretch film is glued to the sticky surface of the front side to protect the window from splashing mortar.

The front side of the window strip has two shelves. When gluing the strip, the extreme shelf is aligned with the edge of the window frame, it will be plastered and will hold the strip inside the slope.

And the second shelf - like a beacon - is a support for the rule when leveling the plaster mixture.

The distance between the shelves is about a centimeter, due to this distance, a slope sweep angle is formed, which will be the same everywhere.

After installing the window strips, remove the protective strips from them.

And we cover the windows with stretch film.

Can be plastered. Only with what tool? You can't find a rule - the window frame interferes. How to plaster the slopes in this case? You can cut off the edge of the rule under acute angle as they did. And we used the material at hand and made a template from a piece of plastic windowsill.

Any hard bar will do, if only working surface was even and, if possible, sharp.

The cutout of the template extends behind window frame and can rest on the shelf of the window strip.

Our next working tools are spatulas and trowel.

We apply the solution.

The DSP can be thrown in with a bucket - the window is sealed. Pressing the template against the corner profile and the window strip, remove the excess mortar.

Add plaster, where there is not enough, and level again.

After that, the surface of the slope looks like this.

After waiting for a while, remove the excess with a trowel.

A little later, we iron it vertically with a suitable size rule.

When working with DSP, you need to look at the state of the plaster layer - if it starts to set, does not float, you can gradually fill the remaining irregularities with a solution and, depending on the type further finishing, rub it with a float or leave it that way. If you have to, you can not fill in small irregularities.

Dip in water and gently brush the surface in a circular motion.

After a while, the surface is finally smoothed out with a wide spatula, it becomes smooth, and with a sufficient level of skill, it does not require further puttying for painting.

After the final hardening of the solution, the remaining edge of the window-sill strip easily breaks off when bent.

It turns out a beautiful, even corner, but I didn't have time to photograph it - I had to leave.

That's all the wisdom. I understand that it is not always possible to buy a window strip, but I want to make the openings of windows and doors beautiful. If I manage to get to the right place with the camera at the right time, I will tell you how to plaster the slopes with only improvised tools.

Good luck to all! Bye!

To receive new blog articles to your e-mail, subscribe.

I would be grateful if you share the article on social networks:

In case of replacing windows in an apartment, you will certainly have to face the problem of subsequent finishing of window slopes. Usually, when dismantling old window blocks, the layer of old plaster is completely removed, exposing all chips and cracks formed during many years of operation. That is why when installing new windows in order to give them a "civilized" look, their slopes must be plastered. But before plastering the slopes on the windows, you should carefully study all the subtleties of finishing procedures. window openings, the development of which will allow, moreover, to significantly save on operating costs.

In addition to achieving purely decorative purposes, plastering slopes can also improve thermal insulation properties the entire window block (experts call this the transfer of the "dew point" outside the room).

We immediately note that effective solution thermal insulation problems are possible only if integrated approach for the installation of the entire window structure, which includes the following elements:

windowsill;
window block;
ebb tides;
the slopes themselves.

Preparatory work

First of all, you will need to decide on the solution used to finish the window slopes. The fact is that, depending on the humidity characteristics of the room, as well as on the installation site of the slopes themselves (outside or inside the building), certain types of solution can be used to prepare them. So, in rooms with high level humidity, it is necessary to use an ordinary mortar prepared on a cement basis or a special cement mix (facade plaster). In production internal works you should use mortars prepared on a cement, gypsum or lime-gypsum base.

Before starting the finishing, it is necessary to ensure that the window is exposed using a level and is located exactly in the center of the window opening.

Your further actions should be performed in the following sequence:

Plastering of slopes

Before plastering the slopes on the windows, you should prepare a tool, which should include the following names:

spatulas in two sizes;
device for smoothing the solution (the so-called "trowel");
set of grout;
rule and set of sponges.

Finishing begins with the application of a solution prepared in the desired consistency with a spatula directly onto the slope. Upon completion of this operation, you can proceed to its alignment, made in such a way that the template is located at the level of the cut of the previously installed corner profile and the guide of the window shelf. If necessary, you can always add the missing solution to the right place and level the surface again.

After a short exposure, you should remove the excess cement mortar, and then, as a rule, align the slope vertically.

To edit small irregularities you can use a special grout (a grater with a sponge glued on it). During grouting, the liquid cement composition is smoothed over the surface of the slope with smooth circular movements made with light pressure on the tool. After a short exposure, it will be necessary to smoothen the surface to be prepared again with a wide spatula.

After the slope is completely dry, you can break off the protruding part of the window strip and remove the protective film from the glass.

Video

This is how you can make plaster slopes: