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Before considering the issue on the merits, you should understand the terminology. The fact is that many articles give fundamentally incorrect definitions of a wet facade, which causes confusion among inexperienced developers. Amateurs call such insulation a wet facade, for the installation of which water-based glue is used. Since this material is "wet", then the facade, respectively, is also "wet". For persuasiveness, they talk about the dew point (in this case, they say, it is taken out of the wall) and the information takes on a "scientific" look. What is it really?

According to the current building regulations, all buildings must meet the requirements for heat conservation. It is impossible to achieve this without the use of heaters. For example, even wooden walls in middle lane our country must have a thickness of at least 60 cm, only such parameters guarantee the required thermal conductivity.

If the walls are made of bricks, then their thickness increases to 120 cm or more. Of course, no one installs such houses, but they use effective insulation, often mineral wool or foam.

Insulation can be done on both internal and external surfaces of the facade walls. Let's dwell on the outer surfaces, they are insulated in two ways.

As for the dew point, in all cases, without exception, it is taken out of the premises. The only exception is that the walls of the house are so thin that the rooms are cooled down to the dew point. Such cases occur in old panel Khrushchevs.

We deliberately took your time to clarify the terminology, only knowing this can you correctly understand the process of facade insulation using various technologies.

Technically, such facades should be called a heat-insulating composite system for insulating facade walls with external plaster layers. Plates of foam or pressed mineral wool are used as heaters, the thickness is selected taking into account the climatic zone and the initial characteristics of the thermal conductivity of the facade walls. But in most cases, you need at least ten centimeters. Pressed mineral wool is used very rarely and only of special types. The reason is insufficient indicators of physical strength, partial shrinkage during operation. What layers does a wet facade consist of?

1. The base is a front wall. It can be brick, wood, foam blocks, monolithic concrete or OSB sheets. Requirement - the surface must be flat. Otherwise, air will circulate between the surface of the wall and the foam plates, due to this phenomenon, the effectiveness of insulation decreases significantly.
2. Heat insulating layer. Expanded polystyrene of front brands (non-combustible). Fixed with glue and disc dowels.
3. Fiberglass mesh. It is advisable to purchase alkali-resistant nets.
4. Ordinary paintable or decorative plaster. It is allowed to finish finishing with light facing facade slabs.

Before proceeding with the description of the technology for installing a wet facade, we want to dwell in more detail on the requirements for facade plaster. The quality in this case is directly proportional to the number of years during which they will remain in their original form:

• the integrity of the facade;
• its novelty.

So, it is best to opt for flexible facade plasters. Silicone compounds are ideal, for example, new generation plaster "Bark beetle". Let's consider the main advantages of this facade coating.

Elasticity. Due to the presence of silicone in the composition, "Bark beetle" is flexible and elastic. Such properties of the coating prevent the formation of microscopic cracks on dried plaster. This is an important quality, because any building after completion construction works exposed to:

• vibrations affecting the structure during shrinkage;
• the expansion and contraction of the materials of which the building is made, as temperatures change.

All of the above circumstances lead to the formation of small and frequent cracks on ordinary plaster. An elastic silicone compound can protect your facade from this nuisance.

Texture of silicone plaster "Bark beetle", grain 2 mm

Moisture resistance. Another unique feature of the "Bark beetle" plaster from the "Farbe" plant is one hundred percent resistance to moisture and full vapor permeability. For this, again, you can thank the unusual composition of the mixture. The finished plaster adheres tightly to every unevenness of the wall to be covered, and creates a protection through which water is guaranteed not to be able to seep.

Long-term color retention. The composition of the plaster from "Farbe" contains silicone resins, which give the following effects:

• the surface does not fade - protection from ultraviolet rays is provided;
• prevents the effect of any other phenomena affecting the loss of brightness of the facade.

If, as a result of mechanical action, the plaster has been scratched or rubbed somewhere, you will not even notice it. The entire mass of plaster is tinted in color and no scratches or abrasions are visible on it.

Self-cleaning. Thanks to the "clean facade" technology, the "Bark beetle" facing plaster is self-cleaning. This happens due to the following factors:

• during distribution and solidification, the elastic composition forms a smooth, solid film;
• in the presence of even light rain, dust settled on the facade is easily washed off from it without assistance.

In other words, if you are too lazy to independently monitor the appearance of your home, and would like it to be "itself", the "Bark beetle" plaster from the "Farbe" plant is your option.

Record service life. The service life of "Bark beetle" is, on average, five times higher than those for similar products on the market today. If using ordinary plaster, you renew the facade coating once every 5 years, with the "Bark beetle" this should be done once every quarter of a century.

Tinting. According to the manufacturer, the silicone plaster "Bark beetle" you are interested in is tinted in about 2,500 different shades. This variety is due to the use of computer tinting and pigments from the world's leading manufacturers.

Variants of shades of silicone plaster "Korooed" Farbe

Small expense. Dry plasters imply a consumption of material for cladding, equal to about 5 kilograms per 1 m². However, the product of the "Farbe" plant, due to the quality and high density of the composition, suggests using no more than 3 kilograms for the same unit of area, which is enough cavity to form an ideal coating.

The production of the considered silicone plaster for facades is certified according to the international standard. By purchasing silicone plaster, you provide the walls of your own home with reliable protection.

Styrofoam prices

Styrofoam

Video - How to apply silicone plaster "Bark beetle"

Prices for various types of decorative plaster bark beetle

Decorative plaster bark beetle

Wet facade installation technology

Count the number building materials with a margin of about 10%, prepare the tools. We recommend using foam plates as insulation, this is the cheapest and most effective option. The disadvantage of foam is the complete impermeability of moisture, but you have to put up with this. Moreover, brick or concrete surfaces and so they hardly breathe.

For finishing the facades, you will need scaffolding, it is better to use metal ones. If not, do it yourself from lumber. Pay great attention to safety, install them on stable surfaces. Check the position on the level, if the building has more than two floors, then you need to tie the vertical posts to the facade walls with special metal hooks.

Important. When installing the scaffolds, set aside the gap between them and the wall, the size of the gap should ensure comfortable hand operation during plastering or painting of the insulation layer. Otherwise, the scaffolding will have to be dismantled and re-installed, and this unnecessary loss time and money.

Step 1. Check the surfaces of the facade walls, irregularities of more than 1 cm need to be cut down, all the rest can be trimmed with glue. Do not be afraid that the cost of the work will increase. If we calculate the time for additional plastering of the walls, the cost of materials, then the use of glue as a leveling solution will be much more profitable.

Step 2. Beat off the lower horizontal line with a special rope with blue, do it in a strictly horizontal position. If you are afraid that the first row of foam plates will slide down, then you need to fix a flat wooden or metal rail along the line. Fasten it with dowels or nails, it all depends on the material of manufacture facade wall.

Practical advice. Disc dowels must match the base, they differ for wood, foam block and brick walls, keep this in mind when purchasing materials. Dowels can be screwed into wood or driven into a prepared hole. The length of the dowel should be equal to the thickness of the foam and glue sheet plus approximately 60 mm for fixing in the wall.

Step 3. Porous surfaces should be primed, use a deep penetration primer. Apply liberally to maximize saturation of porous substrates. Spray cement laitance on smooth cement or brick façade walls. Such operations will increase the coefficient of adhesion of the adhesive to surfaces.

Step 4. Measure the deviation from the horizontal of the corners of the house and check the plane of the walls. This can be done with a plumb line and a rope.

1. Install plumb lines in the corners of the house along the entire height of the wall. Tie the rope above and below to specially installed metal rods, pull it well.
2. Attach a horizontal cord to the taut ropes; do not tighten the knots.
3. Gradually pull the horizontal cord up along the vertical ropes and measure the distance between it and the wall.

This data will make it possible to assess the condition of the wall. If the deviations exceed a centimeter, then they will have to be repaired.

Step 5. Prepare the adhesive mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. The amount depends on your productivity. While preparing the mixture, pour water into the container, and then add the dry ingredients.

Practical advice. If the walls of the facade are covered old paint, then do not rush to remove it, it is long and difficult. First, check the adhesion to the substrate. To do this, cut a grid of grooves in the paint about 1 × 1 cm in size, glue masking tape to the surface and tear it off. If the paint remains on the wall - great, the facade insulation can be done along it. If not, you will have to remove it from the surface of the walls.

Step 6. The adhesive must be applied to the foam surface. If the wall is flat (unevenness does not exceed 5 mm), use a comb. But this happens very rarely. In most cases, the solution will have to be applied with a trowel or spatula using the beacon method. One sheet needs up to eight lighthouses up to two centimeters high around the perimeter and in the center, with a diameter of about 10 cm. Due to this height, the foam plates are easy to align. At the edges of the board, the adhesive should be applied at an angle to prevent it from getting into the seams.

Important. After one or two rows, eliminate the possibility of natural convection of air between the insulation and front wall, otherwise natural draft will appear and insulation will be ineffective. Not just bad, but ineffective, keep that in mind. To eliminate traction, the mortar on these plates must be continuous along one line, the gap between the plates must be completely absent.

Step 7. Apply the board to the surface immediately after spreading. Press and level the foam with a long wooden trowel or rail, control the position with a level.

Important. Inexperienced builders can deviate vertically, it is difficult for them to control the position with a level. We recommend making a rope template for yourself. Stretch them at the desired distance from the wall and secure. The ropes will need to be installed at a distance of about 2–3 meters. Such simple fixtures will allow you to constantly monitor the position of all foam sheets along the height of the facade wall.

The difference in height between the planes of two adjacent slabs cannot exceed two millimeters. If deviations are found, then after the glue has cooled, the protrusions must be carefully cut off with a very sharp knife and make the transition invisible. If you get wide joints between the ends of the slabs - it's okay, they are then choked with polyurethane foam. It is recommended to start the second and subsequent rows from the inner corners and move to the outer corners, it is more difficult to adjust the inner ones.

Step 8. To increase the fire resistance of buildings, fire-prevention lintels must be made between each floor. This requirement of the new legislation is aimed at improving the safety and fire resistance of buildings. Fireproof cuts are made of pressed mineral wool of the same thickness as the foam boards. The width of the scattering is at least twenty centimeters. Lintels are installed along the entire perimeter of buildings and at window and door openings.

Step 9. Finishing of window and door openings. Take the dimensions of the slopes, cut the slabs along them. Do not rush, all joints should be as even as possible. It is better to use mineral wool as insulation, but the choice is yours. If finishing relatively massive, then take polystyrene. Insulation should cover the window and door frame, thereby reducing heat losses and improving the appearance of the facade wall.

Important. In the place where the window sill will be installed, the foam must be cut at an angle to ensure an unobstructed flow of water. One more thing. Slab seams should not be a continuation of the slopes. In these places, you need to use whole slabs and make appropriate cutouts in them for the size of the window. This method eliminates accidental water ingress into the gap between the facade wall and the foam. The minimum allowable distance from the seam to the slopes is 15 cm.

On the part of the slab adjacent to window block, no glue is applied. In the future, the gap is foamed with construction foam.

Seal all cracks with polyurethane foam; after it cools down, carefully cut off the remnants. Fill the voids to the full thickness of the boards with foam; it is recommended to moisten the surfaces before foaming.

Step 10. After the glue has completely hardened, increase the fixing strength with special dowels with large heads. They need to be installed in the places where the corners meet and in the center of each sheet. We have already mentioned that no technology recommends installing insulation boards without dowels, no most expensive glue gives such a secure fixation as dowels. There should be at least four pieces for each square meter of the slab.

This completes the warming process, you can proceed to further finishing.

Insulation plastering

A very important process, not only the appearance of the facade wall, but also the durability of the entire finish depends on the quality of its execution. To increase the adhesion strength and protect the foam sheets from mechanical damage you need to use a plastic mesh, mesh size is about 5 mm. Before starting work, check the surface of the wall with a long rule or a strip.

First you need to trim the corners. Perforated metal profiles are used to reinforce the corners. Cut strips of mesh about 30–40 cm wide. Apply glue to the corners of buildings of the same width, sink the reinforcing mesh into it, and flatten it. Install a metal profile in the corners and again drown it in the solution. Smooth the surface. Above, the corners will be closed with a new mesh already during the finishing of the facade walls.

Step 1. Apply a layer of mortar with a thickness of about 2–3 mm on the boards with a flat metal float or a wide spatula, level it immediately. There is no need to try very hard, the main thing is that it adheres well to the surface of the foam. The fiberglass mesh is easier to lay from top to bottom, the overlap must be at least ten centimeters.

Important. Never put the netting against a dry wall, and then cover it with glue, as only outright hack-workers do this. The fact is that this method of finishing significantly reduces the strength of adhesion of materials, in the future, cracks will appear on the plaster. Pay attention to ready-made houses, many of them have this drawback - the consequences of the work of unscrupulous craftsmen.

Step 2. Carefully level the surface of the mesh, the fibers should be completely covered with adhesive. Check the plane of the wall with a long strip and smooth out any irregularities. To do this, carefully place the flat rail against the wall and immediately remove it. The print of the trail will show the areas that need alignment.

The surface should be as flat as possible

Step 3. If the facade is to be painted, then a second layer of plaster should be applied, thickness within 2-3 mm. The main condition is the maximum alignment of the walls. The technology is the same, do not be discouraged if traces remain after the spatula, then they can be gently rubbed with an ordinary grater. If decorative plaster is chosen for the finishing, then it can be applied on the first layer. The same applies to the gluing of thin facade panels.

If the basement is insulated, then here you need to adhere to the recommended technologies to the maximum extent. The surface of the base must be plastered, before gluing the boards, soak it several times with a waterproofing solution. The fact is that concrete absorbs a lot of moisture, it will get on the glue. And the foam eliminates the possibility of evaporation, water accumulates under it, during freezing it expands and the plates will fall off, they will only hold on to the dowels. If the base is then lined with rather heavy finishing materials, then they deform the foam plates with their weight. V best case surfaces will become uneven, at worst you will have to remove materials and repeat the insulation of the house from the beginning.

In the absence of experience in performing such work, it is difficult to find out if the foam is stuck reliably. We recommend making a test gluing. Apply the solution around the perimeter and in the center, place the sheet against the facade wall and align its position. Remove the styrofoam immediately and look at the glue marks on the wall. They should be uniform over the entire area, and the total area should be at least 40% of the size of the sheet. Such a simple test will make it possible in the future to be guided by the amount and location of glue application. In addition, you will feel with what force the foam sheet should be pressed against the facade wall.

Always start the row installation from the corner and from the whole slab. If the whole slab does not fit at the opposite corner, then it must be cut to size and use the penultimate one, and the last must be whole. In extreme cases, the area of ​​adhesion of the foam should be twice the area of ​​the part protruding beyond the corner of the house. Do not forget that the slab should protrude beyond the corner of the building by its thickness; in this place, the insulation from the two walls should overlap. It is better to make a ledge with a margin, then the excess will be cut off. The solution must not get on the protruding part of the plate. The next rows of foam on the previous ones are installed in gearing. The tighter they fit, the more reliable fastening... In the outer corners, the load is greatest, and you cannot insure yourself with dowels, remember this and carefully perform all operations. Plates on the wall should be staggered; it is forbidden for vertical joints to coincide on the wall.

Check the position of the first row especially carefully, it is he who sets the level for the entire wall. It is recommended to lay the next rows only after the glue is completely cured on the first one and fixing it with dowels.

Do not allow glue to get into the joints between the boards. Why? Cement mixtures have high thermal conductivity and form cold bridges. They will become visible on the façade walls as wet streaks. There are cases when such flaws cannot be hidden even with decorative plaster. The stripes are unstable; depending on climatic conditions, they appear or disappear.

The main task of the reinforcing mesh is to protect the foam from mechanical damage. Experienced builders know that it is impossible to clean the foam from dried high-quality glue without damaging the surface. This means that the role of the mesh in retaining the plaster is minimal. If the mass falls off, then repairs still cannot be avoided, the plaster will sag on the mesh. Hence the conclusion - reinforcement must be done on those sections of the facade wall that can be damaged by mechanical forces, as a rule, not higher than 1.5 m from the base. Anything above is at your personal discretion.

You can cut foam boards with a fine-toothed hacksaw. But this is not the most good option... A much smoother cut is obtained after cutting with a heated nichrome wire. It can be bought in specialized stores, the length of the wire depends on the diameter. Stretch the wire at a convenient location and plug into a power outlet. Uneven cut edges after a hacksaw can be sanded with a special float.

Video - A device for cutting polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam has very low adhesion to adhesives. Before use, be sure to clean it on both sides with a float until shallow grooves appear.

Video - Preparing expanded polystyrene for gluing

Do not use this material as the main thermal insulation, it can only be used for finishing the base / plinth. And then only in those cases when the finishing of these surfaces is done with heavy materials.

Video - Wet facade installation technology

Advantages. Applicable materials

One of the most affordable and optimal from the point of view of thermal insulation methods of facade finishing is the so-called wet facade. This method gives a lot of room for decorating the house, since the materials for the topcoat have a rich color palette, new paint compositions appear that make it possible to create an interesting texture: mosaic, with imitation of stone or brickwork, "bark beetle" structure. A wet facade is a technology that is constantly being improved. Now it is possible to purchase heat-insulating boards made of extruded polystyrene, on which a finishing layer has been applied in advance. This article explains what a wet facade is and when it is applied.

The "wet facade" technology is indispensable for improving the appearance and insulation of old buildings. Many facades of old summer cottages near Moscow are finished using this technology. Installation of the wet facade system does not create excessive load on the supporting structures of the building; this technology saves money required to strengthen the foundation.

The wet facade provides for the installation of thermal insulation with outside houses, therefore, the useful area of ​​the dwelling does not decrease. And the comfort of housing increases - in the cold season, the walls are not blown through and do not freeze, the temperature inside the room is evenly distributed. In the hot months, the facade system avoids excessive heating of the building structures, the microclimate inside the house remains comfortable both in hot and rainy weather. An important characteristic of the system is that it improves the sound insulation of the house.

Thus, we can say that the use of such facade technology, like a wet facade, allows you to create an individual appearance of the house, significantly increase its service life and create comfortable conditions for the owners of the house.

Pie system

The "cake" of a wet facade consists of several layers that have a specific function. To create a heat-insulating layer, polystyrene foam of facade grades is used, the density of the material is 16-17 kg / m3, an alternative is a mineral wool plate with a density of 120-170 kg / m3. To determine the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, an accurate thermal calculation should be made.

For alignment load-bearing wall and secure fixation thermal insulation boards a reinforced layer is created. It serves as the basis for the outer layers and consists of an adhesive and an alkali-resistant glass fiber reinforcement mesh.

To protect the whole pie and create decorative effects serves finishing layer, plastering compounds are used to create it of various types- silicate, silicone, mineral. At the final stage of the installation of the "wet" facade, mineral plaster is painted with special paints. The use of mass-paintable seloxane plasters is often recommended. There is a version of the origin of the term "wet" facade, associated with the fact that the plaster mixture for the finishing layer in production is produced in the form of a powder, which is diluted with water before application.

Before starting construction work, you should make an accurate calculation, and also check whether the elements of the system are compatible in terms of such indicators as thermal expansion, frost resistance, water resistance, vapor permeability.

Mineral wool insulation has a high vapor permeability, and if the finishing plaster does not allow water vapor to pass through well, then the lingering moisture will soon destroy the decorative coating.

Sequence of assembly operations and possible errors

The first stage of installation work is a thorough surface preparation. The wall should be cleaned of dust and dirt, reinforcement protruding from the wall, excess mortar in brickwork, and any other protruding metal elements should be removed. May be required renovation work if there are cracks in the wall. The prepared wall is treated with a primer, this ensures reliable adhesion of the insulation to the wall surface. Carelessly carried out wall preparation can lead, at best, to the appearance of rust spots, and at worst - to the complete collapse of the thermal insulation system.

Then you need to mount the basement profile and crutches of window drains, the basement strips are installed strictly horizontally and serve as the basis for laying the first row of insulation. We need a competent installation of "kerchiefs" in the corners of the door and window openings, plugs are needed at the ends of the window sill ebb, a violation of the technology at this stage may entail water ingress into the system and the destruction of the facade system in the places where the window sill ebb adjoins.

How to glue insulation in a wet facade system

The next step is gluing the insulation boards to the wall. The glue is diluted in strict accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations and applied to the insulation board. The glue is applied along the entire perimeter and additionally in at least six places over the area of ​​the slab. It is best to distribute the adhesive evenly with a comb-type trowel. The resulting grooves play a role expansion joints... The area covered with glue should be at least 40% of the total area of ​​the insulation slab.

The first row of insulation should be installed with a mandatory level check. The subsequent rows are glued by knitting, like brickwork, you need to make sure that the gaps between the plates are not 2-3mm. If these conditions are not met, cracks and tears will inevitably appear on the facade. Using a comb trowel, the resulting grooves play the role of expansion joints. The area covered with glue should be at least 40% of the total area of ​​the insulation slab.

After gluing the insulation, a short time is needed for the glue to acquire the necessary strength. This period is indicated by the manufacturer and must be strictly observed. Then the insulation is fixed with front dowels. The quality of this type of hardware must be given the utmost attention, since they account for the entire wind load.

The type of dowels is chosen depending on the wall material and insulation, since there is a very wide range of hardware products on sale, it is necessary to consult a specialist in each specific case. The main types of dowels are driven with a spacer element in the form of a polypropylene nail, a nail made of glass-filled polyamide, a nail made of galvanized steel (fire-resistant version); screw, in which a screw plays the role of a spacer. To give the fastening reliability, a pressure cuff (randol) is used. There are dowels equipped with a thermal head, they are used to completely eliminate heat loss.

When calculating the number of dowels, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the system, the wind load, as well as in which zone of the facade the attached slab is located. On average, for a building with a small number of storeys, which is country house, enough 5 - 6 dowels per 1 sq. m.

One of the main mistakes at this stage is the excessive deepening of the driven dowels into the insulation plate. In this case, the dowel landing zone is deformed, the adhesion force with the base decreases relative to the calculated level. If the disc dowel protrudes above the plane of the slab, bumps appear on the facade, spoiling the appearance.

How to fix a reinforcing mesh

About a day after the end of the installation of polystyrene foam plates, a reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of them. It is not difficult to apply the plaster layer in which the mesh is embedded, but, without experience, mistakes can be made.

First of all, the fiberglass mesh must be cut in advance, so that at the joints the mesh can be laid with an overlap of at least 10 mm. The absence of overlap is fraught with the formation of cracks. In order to close possible defects that have arisen during the installation of the insulation, it is necessary to apply a "rough" layer of plaster, into which the fiberglass mesh is recessed. The threads of the mesh should not be visible above the surface of the plaster, and the formation of creases and wrinkles should not be allowed when laying the mesh. Then, after installing the mesh, a finishing layer of plaster is applied.

The mesh is made of fiberglass and impregnated with polymer compounds. The main requirement for the mesh is high resistance to alkalis, a poor-quality mesh can simply dissolve. High-quality fiberglass mesh is elastic, resistant to tensile and tearing effects, the weaving points are securely fixed. The use of high-quality mesh is especially important in the Russian climate, as it reduces internal stresses, thereby preventing the process of facade cracking during sudden temperature changes.

Starting to create a protective and decorative layer of a wet facade, you need to choose a decorative plaster, paying attention to its texture and vapor permeability indicators. The choice of decorative plasters and finishing paints on the modern market of finishing materials is very large and the methods of work for creating any decorative effects are also quite diverse. At this stage, the owner of the house can fully express his imagination, and use those materials and textures that will help give the house a unique look.

On our FORUMHOUSE website you will find sections that tell in more detail how to mount it correctly, what rules exist and where it should be located

The modern construction industry is successfully using new technological developments and building materials. The buildings that were built not so long ago look elegant, beautiful and neat.

In addition to the aesthetic parameters, it is worth noting the quality indicators. Houses can last for a very long time and perfectly resist negative environmental influences.

Especially beautiful design obtained when used for facade decoration.

It makes the building attractive, insulates it and protects it from wind, moisture, mechanical stress. Let's consider this issue in more detail, we will study which ones are suitable for finishing and how to organize work on applying plaster to the walls.

Wet plaster got its name not because of its strange appearance, but taking into account the fact that to perform necessary work special finishing materials are used. Compositions for creating such a design contain a large amount of water.

This technology came to Russia from Western Europe in the early 70s and gradually gained popularity among the population. Consider what advantages and disadvantages experts note in such formulations.

The following points can be distinguished as advantages:

• plastering can be done by hand, since this work does not require special skills and special skills;
• the facade can be painted in any color at the request of the performer;
• finance costs for the purchase of the train and additional materials insignificant;
• this technology can be used for finishing a building of any level of complexity;
• plaster can withstand any load, including the placement of stands and other signage.

Based on these advantages, it is possible to add the composition to the list of high-quality and practical materials, however, do not forget about some of the disadvantages that also occur.

First of all, it is important to remember that plaster can absorb a lot of moisture and therefore needs additional protection against negative effects. external environment... If you neglect this advice, the finished coating can warp and deform. The most the right action in this situation, the organization of waterproofing will be.

It should also be remembered that the plaster will be applied to the insulation in the form of or, therefore, it must be borne in mind that the thickness of the insulation should be no more than 150 kg per cubic meter, otherwise the plaster will crack after drying. Therefore, in order to ensure the safety of the structure and ensure a long service life, finishing materials should be used that will have the necessary technical characteristics.

Which is better, dry or wet plaster?

The first and most important difference between the compositions is the finishing procedure. For dry plaster, drywall serves as the basis, therefore this method is the least laborious and costly.

Wet plaster requires more time to apply the composition and significant physical costs.

Such a finishing method as wet plaster is suitable even for walls suffering from high levels of humidity. Plaster absorbs condensation and brings the dew point outside the house.

It remains dry and warm indoors. The microclimate is significantly improved. Dry plaster is more suitable for interior wall decoration, since it does not differ in high technical characteristics and does not tolerate low temperatures well.

Both plasters are used for finishing an already prepared facade, since the thickness of the coating should not exceed 5 mm. In addition, the walls must be covered with special mixtures and plaster. This will ensure an even surface and maximum adhesion to the putty. both mixtures can be finishing, since they are used for the final finishing of the outer surface of the walls of various structures and buildings.

Material specifications

The method, called wet plaster, has many advantages, especially from a situation where the walls are very wet and there is no way to use dry plaster. This material easily absorbs moisture, which provides a dry, warm indoor climate.

The main feature that arises when working with wet plaster is the organization of multi-layer finishing. Each layer has its own thickness. A standard finishing layer looks like: a layer of mineral wool, a base layer of plaster, fiberglass mesh and or.

If the performer wants to provide more high level thermal protection, wet plaster can have different thicknesses, as well as all other layers. If there is also a problem of wet soil near the house, then additional finishing is also required for the basement of the house.

Despite the fact that the application of wet plaster requires a lot of effort and is accompanied by the dilution of dirt, this technique has many positive characteristics:

• versatility - suitable for any surface;
• differs in affordable cost - you can pick up the composition within the approved budget;
• ease of use - you can do the work yourself;
• strength and solidity - the material practically does not lend itself to external influences and with its help you can create a solid coating that is perfect for subsequent finishing;
• moisture resistance - the composition protects the walls from the negative effects of moisture.

Each of these qualities makes wet plaster a versatile and practical material.... In addition to these characteristics, it should also be noted such indicators as elasticity and ease of application of the material.

When choosing a putty, it is necessary to take into account the type of binder, its cost and manufacturer. It is best to purchase finishes from trusted companies, as this guarantees the high quality of the finished product.

Preparing the wall for application

Before proceeding with the direct application of the composition to the facade of the building, it is necessary to prepare the walls for these works. Generally, preparatory work are fairly simple and can be performed even by a beginner.

The following activities will be required:

• at the initial stage, the condition of the facade should be assessed, and it should be determined in which places there are irregularities that need to be removed;
• after evaluation, it is necessary to clean the walls from existing dirt, from debris, old plaster, if any;
• in places that need additional restoration, it is necessary to place a plaster mortar;
• if the surface of the wall can easily absorb moisture, then additional finishing in the form of a primer should be made. This will eliminate the development of mold, mildew;
• in the area of ​​doors and slopes, old plaster must be removed.

NOTE!

All slabs used for facade insulation are fixed with glue... It is very important to make sure that the insulation is securely fastened and can withstand the next stage of finishing.

Important preparatory stage is on the facade. This event is held three days after the installation of thermal insulation. To do this, you first need to apply an adhesive composition, and lay a reinforcing mesh on it and cover it with a special layer of plaster. Once dry, the walls are ready for wet plastering.

Installation of the basement profile

When the surface is prepared for further finishing, you should install a profile strip that will protect the walls from moisture absorption in the first row of insulation, and also so that the heat insulator slabs lie as flat as possible.

The fastening of the profile strip is carried out in basement floor and for this purpose self-tapping screws and dowels are used. Fasteners are fastened in 20 cm increments. It is important to take into account that the height from the ground should be no more than 0.4 meters. The gap between the planks is 3 mm. In order to protect the corners of the structure, it is recommended to use a special corner profile.

Application technology

All previously applied layers will dry in a week, after which it is required to apply an outer layer of putty. The composition is applied to the prepared reinforcement and for this purpose, the finishing building mixture used for outdoor use. Additionally, a special adhesive composition can be used in the event that decorative finishing is planned in the future.

After 3-7 days, necessary for the drying of the applied layers, you can start applying the leveling layer. There are several subtleties of applying plaster that can play important role when decorating the facade. If the facade is exposed to excessive moisture, then it is worth using mineral wool instead of insulation, because it perfectly resists the development of mold and mildew.

Sometimes, wet plaster is applied in a thick layer and is heavy. This is necessary to reduce heat loss. It is the thickness that plays a big role in this case. The first layer of plaster is applied at least 20-30 cm thick. It is important that the insulation layer must also be thick.

Of course, the finishing mass in this case turns out to be very large, therefore, additional fixing dowels, hooks and a plinth strip are used.

The protruding reinforcing mesh should be rubbed with a special adhesive 5 mm thick... Then the mesh should be reapplied and the last layer of 20-30 mm should be applied.

The finishing must be done in two layers.

If the soil is very wet, then it is required to additionally finish the basement of the walls, using a special non-absorbent and moisture-resistant material. Before proceeding with the application of the leveling layer, it is recommended to impregnate the surface of the walls with an antiseptic primer.

Useful video

DIY plastering workshop:

Conclusion

Wet plaster in last years became popular and used for decoration of buildings. The facade of the building, decorated in this way, has beautiful view and is particularly durable.

It is important that wet plaster perfectly absorbs moisture and acts as an additional protective agent from the negative impact of the external environment - from rain, moisture, wind. Using such material for decoration, you can extend the life of the building for several years and achieve a beautiful effect. Wet plaster lasts a very long time, does not burst and does not deform.

In contact with

You can insulate the walls of your house both from the inside and outside. But a zealous owner will always give preference to systems with an external insulation. Code of Rules SP 23-101-2004 "Design of thermal protection" reads: "It is not recommended to use thermal insulation from the inside." In addition, at least three more arguments can be named in favor of such a decision:

The wet facade method involves the following stages of work:

1. Preparatory process.
2. Wall insulation with mineral wool or expanded polystyrene from the outside of the building.
3. Applying a layer of adhesive mixture to the surface of the insulation, followed by laying on it a reinforcing, alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh.
4. Plastering the surface.
5. The finishing layer of finishing material.

Outwardly, the "wet facade" in the photo looks like this:

Thermal insulation of the facade using the "wet facade" technology

You will learn about the technology of laying this method of insulation a little later, and in this section I would like to note its advantages and disadvantages.

The effective method of "wet facade" has established itself as one of the cheapest, included in the "TOP-3 Inexpensive facades", you can read about this in the article, therefore it is used everywhere. But in order for the listed advantages to only please you, it is necessary to carry out the technology, choose quality material and comply with the necessary conditions when performing work.

Types of facades and their scope

"Wet façade" is a plaster finish that is used to insulate administrative buildings, residential buildings, office, commercial and industrial buildings. This type of facade is suitable for both low-rise and high-rise construction.

The outer walls of the building can be insulated in two ways. One of them is called "Dry facade", and the other is "Wet facade". When installing the first type of facing, there is no need to use various solutions and compositions that have a liquid consistency. This type of facade finishing includes all types of ventilated facades, which you can learn about in the article "". Due to the available space, the insulation is ventilated, the material is not moistened.

As for the second method, the "wet facade", or wet facade plaster, has nothing to do with humidification. The name implies that the heat insulator will be mounted on the wall, and then the surface will be plastered with special solutions.

In the process of work, plaster and adhesives are used, which are diluted with water, therefore the method is called "wet facade".

Classification of facade systems with external thin plaster layers according to GOST R 53786-2010 “Composite thermal insulation facade systems with external plaster layers. Terms and Definitions", presented in the table:

Wet Facade Technology

All technological phases are performed at a temperature not less than + 5 ° С and not higher than + 25 ° С according to SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings". The quality of the work performed and the service life depend on the accuracy of the conditions fulfilled.

By violating the temperature regime and using materials that are not intended for the "wet facade" system, you risk getting a cracked coating or crumbling plaster.

Do not forget about your safety, because the work will be carried out at a height. You will most likely use forests, according to SNiP 12-03-2001 "Safety in construction" Part 1 their installation is carried out in tiers, and the height of each tier must be at least 2 m. The step, depending on the height, can be a multiple of 0.5; 1 and 2 m. The scaffolding walls are exposed at a distance of 300–400 mm from the outer plane.

Preparatory work

It is necessary to start work by inspecting the surface and visual definition its strength and bearing capacity. If there are influxes from the solution on the wall, remove the excess with a hammer or other improvised tool, and seal the cracks with mortar.

According to the standards SNiPa 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings" the substrate must be firm, rough, clean and open-pored. Differences of more than 10 mm must be eliminated.

Suppose there is a small section of 200 x 200 mm on the wall, concave by a couple of centimeters, and if you close it with insulation, then a void will form in this place. An accidental blow to the finished facade in this place will break the insulation. Laying the slab on protruding places is also fraught with an internal material defect.

If, running your palm over the surface, you see a "chalk trail" on your hand or something like fine sand is falling from the wall - clean the wall more thoroughly. Sometimes you have to completely plaster the base.

We will clean the treated surface of dirt and prime it with a special compound called "Primer", this intermediate layer will improve the physical and technical characteristics of the base. We do this with a roller or a wide paint brush.

The foam primer should only be used on foam plastic and not on mineral wool boards.

If the surface strongly absorbs the composition, then apply the primer 2 times. This operation will increase the adhesion of the substrate and reduce the pulling off of water from the adhesive mixture.

Insulation installation

Using the "wet plaster" method, it is necessary to understand that most of the load will fall on the insulation layer. We offer a drawing that clearly shows the design of this technology using decorative plaster as a finishing layer.

"Wet facade"

Therefore, the choice and installation of insulating material to the wall surface is a crucial moment when installing a "wet facade".

The choice of the material used in the work depends on the following indicators:

The technology of production of works on the device of the "wet facade" allows the use of a synthetic polymer group of heaters, mineral thermal insulation materials and their combination. Materials must comply GOST: 10140-2003. “Thermal insulation boards made of mineral wool on a bitumen binder. Specifications ", 16136-2003" Perlite-bitumen heat-insulating plates. Specifications ", 22950-95" Mineral wool slabs of increased rigidity on a synthetic binder. Technical conditions ".

The thickness of the heat insulator is chosen depending on the existing standards of heat engineering of buildings and structures, which are prescribed in SNiPe 23-02-2003 "Thermal protection of buildings". It says here that to insulate facades for residential premises, you should use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 10–250 mm or a mineral wool plate of 25–180 mm.

Taking into work extruded polystyrene foam, which has a smooth surface, you should make it rough. To do this, you can buy a factory planer for aerated concrete, as in the photo, or make a homemade plane from a metal profile pierced with nails.

For work, purchase the tools necessary to complete the construction process:

• building level;
• hammer;
• perforator with dowel attachments (most often D8);
• electric drill;
• profile cutter;
• spatula: 80–100 mm and 350 mm;
• container for diluting the adhesive composition;
• construction mixer;
• notched trowel, tooth size 8–10 mm, made of stainless steel;
• smooth edge trowel;
• grater with sandpaper or mesh;
• long wooden scraper;
• wide brush, surface primer roller;
• construction knife for cutting mesh;
• polyurethane float 300–400 mm for structure formation.

The approximate consumption of materials is shown in the table:

The fastening of the insulation begins from the basement of the building to its roof, within one vertical grip, and is performed in the following chronology:

1. Fastening the basement profile The bottom of the insulating layer is protected from mechanical damage by means of a basement profile, which is installed above the basement by 400–600 mm using a level. It also holds the lower (first) row of the insulator, and the profiled drip wicks away raindrops. Plinth profiles with their dimensions are suitable for various thicknesses of thermal insulation material, they correspond to GOST 22233-2001 “Extruded profiles from aluminum alloys for translucent enclosing structures. Technical conditions " and the slab must fit into them exactly - without gaps. In the wall we drill holes for dowels, at least 3 pcs per 1 m of the profile. We lean the profile against the wall, insert plastic dowels into the holes and use a hammer to drive it into the wall. Sometimes polyethylene backing washers are used for lining between the profile and the wall.
   

   The location of the plinth profile in the installed form should be in one line, at the joints there are no overlaps or deformation of the part.

   When the profile continues along the adjacent base, then it is cut off at an angle of 45 °. In houses with basements and technical underground, polystyrene foam plates must overlap the end of the plate not less than 200 mm from the lower mark of the overlap of the first floor and basement.

   

2. Coating the insulation surface with an adhesive solution You can find out which expanded polystyrene is best for you in the article "", and for its installation we use a cement-based adhesive solution, but only for outdoor work. The adhesive solution is prepared by hand using a construction electric mixer. How to do this is written on the packaging. Fill the container with water in the amount of 5–5.5 liters per 25 kg of the mixture and slowly pour the dry solution out of the bag, stir the contents thoroughly at low speed. You should get a homogeneous mass, leave it for 10 minutes, and then stir again. The adhesive composition must be mixed until a homogeneous mass without lumps and remember that it retains its properties only for 4 hours.

   Apply the adhesive mass to the boards in strips of 30–40 mm in width at a distance of about 30 mm from the edge, so that during installation it will not squeeze out beyond the edges of the material. In the central part of the slab, we apply about 6–8 slides, 30–40 mm thick. We select the amount of solution in such a way that more than half of the surface of the insulation has contact with the base through it. The strip of glue along the contour should have breaks; we make them with a spatula, thus eliminating the formation of air jams.

   

3. Gluing the insulation to the base After applying the glue, immediately apply the slab to the wall, the long side of which lies horizontally, fixing it with blows of a fist through a long wooden scraper, or with a mallet. At the same time, we control the vertical and horizontal position of the slab with a level. We immediately remove the glue squeezed out of the insulation contour.
   

   Do not press the heat insulator repeatedly or move it even after a few minutes. If it is not glued correctly, gently tear it off, remove the mortar, only then reapply the mass to the plate and press it to the surface.

   We lay the slabs in a horizontal pattern, from bottom to top, keeping the staggered arrangement of the order of the seams, and “overlap” at the corners. At the corners we apply a "gear" gearing.

   First, a slab is laid with a corresponding protrusion on one wall, and then another is applied to it. The strip that remains is cut off.

   Vertical and horizontal seams should not be more than 2 mm. If it turns out that they are much larger, you cannot completely fill them with solution. A narrow strip of insulation must be inserted into the gap and pressed into the seam, no longer using an adhesive composition. When the gap is small and it is impossible to insert heat-insulating material into it, experts recommend expanding it and inserting insulation with effort, but not using an adhesive solution, but using polyurethane foam.

   It is better to use a toothed float for laying the glue on the insulation, this method guarantees a clean joint and ensures uniform adhesion of the insulation to the glued surface with the ability to level the sheet along the plane.

   Insulating the slopes from the outside, we use insulation with a thickness of at least 30 mm. We cut the expanded polystyrene plate 5 mm less than the width of the slope, or before gluing it from the insulation we cut out a wedge (8-10 mm) and fill the gap between the insulator and the frame with silicone mastic.

   When insulating slopes, the slabs should protrude 10 mm beyond the slope, thus it is very convenient to join the main facade insulation.

   At the corners, the slabs are mounted with bandaging the seams. You should also pay attention to the adjoining of the heat insulator to the under-roof lining, because this place especially requires protection from mechanical stress and moisture getting under the slabs. For this edge thermal insulation material reinforced with another layer of reinforcing mesh, as for window and door openings, the insulating layer on top is protected by a cornice strip.

   

4. Leveling the surface of the insulation All irregularities of the glued insulation must be smoothed off with a float with sandpaper. This is done only after the glue has hardened, 2 days after gluing the plates. Use a grater to make circular motions with slight pressure.

   

5. Fastening the insulation to the wall with dowels After 2 days, when the glue has already grabbed, we proceed to fasten the insulation to the base mechanically - with special dowels with wide caps. We select a site and use a puncher to drill holes in it with a Ø 10 mm drill, 15–20 mm in depth, longer than the length of the dowel. Otherwise, the debris falling into the hole will not allow the tip to be driven in. We calculate the length of the fungus according to the following scheme: thickness of the insulating material + 10 mm (thickness of other layers) + 40-50 mm into the wall. Suppose if the insulation is 50 mm thick, then the dowel length will be 110 mm, i.e. 50 + 10 + 50. The length of the hole will be 130 mm: 110 + 20, which means the length of the drill is a little more than 130 mm. Place the holes on the sheets: at the joints and in the center. In total, 5 fungi will go on the sheet. You can do more, if necessary. Regardless of the location of the dowels on the slabs within the same plane of the site, the sheets are nailed 50-100 mm from their edge. Now we drive spacer tips into the dowels, if it is difficult to hammer them to the end, pull out the dowel, deepen the hole and re-hammer the tip.

   It is worth remembering that for work, you should buy a dowel with a thermal head. Otherwise, over time, the facade may appear rust stains... The dowel rod itself is metal, its spacer zone is located in brickwork or concrete, therefore, the metal rod is a cold bridge and can rust over time, and the thermal head will protect the facade from such a problem.

   

A properly reinforced dowel is considered when its head is in the same plane with the heat-insulating material.

If it is necessary to lay two layers of a heat insulator, then we perform the first layers in the same way as described above, and the second one is glued to the first, but in such a way that the joints overlap. After grouting the surface, you can drive in the dowels, just choose the right length of the product so that it is enough for the thickness of the insulation and the base.

In the case when the thickness of the insulation is two layers greater than the existing length of the fastener, it is recommended to use assembly adhesive for expanded polystyrene for fastening. If you use ordinary polyurethane foam, you may not achieve a flat surface, because expansion of foam is much more expansion of polystyrene foam assembly adhesive.

Insulation plastering

Before plastering expanded polystyrene or other insulation, it is necessary to perform a number of operations, which can be conditionally divided into 3 stages:

• Surface reinforcement
• Plastering works
• Finishing

Surface reinforcement

The technology of "wet facade" after the installation of the insulation obliges the next stage to reinforce the surface. This function is performed by a fiberglass mesh, finished with a polymer composition to protect the material from alkaline corrosion. According to GOST R 537862010 "Composite thermal insulation facade systems with external plaster layers" reinforcement occurs by "sinking" it into the base composition during its application.

Fiberglass mesh is an industrial grade material in which strands are held together in perpendicular directions to form cells. All products must comply GOST R 55225-2012 “Fiberglass mesh for front reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions ".

A fiberglass mesh with a density of 160 to 220 g / m 2 is suitable for work. The specified minimum is spelled out in the technical regulations of well-known manufacturers of facade insulation systems: Knauf in the "System of external thermal insulation KNAUF-TEPLAYA WALL", thermal insulation systems Ceresit WM. By purchasing a material with a low density, the developer reduces the reliability and strength of his facade in relation to the tensile forces in the plaster layer.

The mesh will also serve as a reliable base for the next layer of plaster. If you glue a material that does not meet these requirements, then the alkaline solution will dissolve the mesh within several years.

Such material will reliably protect the facade from cracks caused by temperature differences.

The grid should be marked “for external, facade works". According to GOST R 55225-2012 “Fiberglass mesh for front reinforcing alkali-resistant. Technical conditions ", product labeling must be on each roll. By type, depending on the purpose, facade fiberglass meshes are:

• privates - P;
• reinforced - U;
• architectural - A.

The marking of the mesh for the facade (FS) includes: abbreviated designation of the product, its type, nominal mass and width, breaking strength in tension along the warp and weft, designation of the normative standard.

An example is this marking: FSR-160 (110) -2000/2000 GOST R, where

• FS - facade mesh;
• R - private;
• 160 - weight in grams;
• 110 - length in cm

• 2000/2000 - breaking forces on the warp and weft, equal to 2000 N;
• GOST R is the standard.

To fix the mesh, a layer of glue and plaster mixture is required, into which a fiberglass mesh is embedded, which serves as the basis for high-quality plaster. It must match GOST R 54359-2011 "Adhesive compositions, basic plaster, leveling, putty on a cement binder for facade thermal insulation composite systems with external plaster layers"... It is better to start this stage after 72 hours from the moment the heat insulator is glued to the wall. Remember that this must be done not in rainy weather and the air temperature is not lower than + 5 ° С and not higher than + 25 ° С. Do not leave the insulation material uncovered for more than 2 weeks. If, nevertheless, it happened, then before performing the reinforcement, check the quality of the material: clean yellowed plates with a dusty surface with a float or plane. We start working with difficult areas - these are corners and slopes.

Reinforcement of corners

For work, we need a plastic corner, since it is chemically inert, and the cement mortar that we use has alkaline environment... In addition, polymers practically do not corrode and are easy to cut.

Profile marking: UP S-10 x 15 x 2500 stands for the following:

• UP - corner profile;
• C - mesh;
• 10 - width, in mm;
• 15 - length, in mm;
• 2500 - length, in mm.

We start working from the corner of the building. So, before that, it is necessary to put them, both internal and external, in order - to install ready-made perforated plastic corners with a mesh, such are commercially available, we talked about them above. The figure clearly shows the diagram of their location.

Do not forget that the corners should be set professionally, and the insulation should be laid according to the level using the "rule" and thread. We press the corners to the insulation and, using a level, set them horizontally and vertically. The glue protruding through the perforation, which was applied to the surface in advance, is smoothed out, with its help the corner is leveled and fixed.

The process itself is as follows: we apply a mortar with a spatula (200 mm) at an angle (50–70 mm on each side of the corner, with a layer thickness of 2–3 mm). We apply a plastic corner to the corner of the structure, press it to the surface and smooth it with a spatula along the mesh from corner to side, slightly down. It turns out an angle, on each side of which a mesh is glued by 50–70 mm, and another 50–70 mm of mesh on a clean insulation.

If a situation arises that it is necessary to connect two corners together, then we connect them vertically, just do not forget that the joint must be covered from above with a reinforcing mesh, at least 100 millimeters.

Reinforcement of door and window openings

Using the level, we check the slopes again and, if necessary, trim them with a grater. We set the profiles of the abutment with the mesh. In the diagram, you can see the finished construction of the window opening.

We apply a layer of mortar on the slopes, the profile mesh is stretched, embedded in it and smoothed. We do this around the entire perimeter of the opening. Next, we mount the corners and a window sill profile with a glass mesh on the corners of the opening. A little more solution is applied to the corners, so that no air cavities are created under the profiles, and the excess solution will come out through the perforations. Do not forget to control the level of the correct profile setting.

It turns out that one mesh goes over another, they are sunk into the solution and on all 4 corners of the opening at an angle of 45 0 we apply a "kerchief" - a piece of mesh. Outwardly, it will look like this:

Location of the "kerchief"

Stress is created at the corners of the openings and gussets prevent cracks from appearing in these places. This section of work is performed in the same way as the previous ones: a solution is applied to the surface, a mesh is applied, it is embedded with a spatula. Only the "kerchief" must be pressed with force, remove all excess adhesive mixture so that there are no thickenings on the surface.

When the slopes are processed, it is necessary to glue glass mesh strips onto their inner corners, which in width will be equal to the width of the slope, and in length will be 300–400 mm.

Fastening the reinforcing mesh to the insulation

We start moving from the top from the left corner of the site, then downward in diagonal movements in the direction from the center to the sides. From below, we cut off the excess length of the mesh at the level of the basement profile.

It is necessary to apply the glue with a spatula, at least 350 mm. With a smaller tool, apply the mixture to a large one, stretching it along the entire length of the tool, and apply the solution to the insulation. "Ceresit" has proven itself well. The layer should be 2-3 mm. Work should be done small plots: 90 cm in width and about one meter in height. If there is a 1 m mesh in a roll, then we capture 90 cm and 10 cm remains clean without a mixture, for a joint.

We process only a meter in height: in sunny weather, the solution dries quickly, but you need to have time to apply it, lay the mesh, add the solution and iron the surface with a spatula.

We apply the mesh so that it lies 100 mm in width on a clean section of the insulation. With a spatula, smooth out the area from the center to the edges, down, so that the mesh "sticks" evenly into the mixture. Ideally, when it is completely in the mixture, but its outlines are barely visible.

The mesh is sold in a roll, you need to make a strip of mesh from top to bottom, without cutting, and only join the seams vertically. Starting from the top to make a height of 1.5-2 meters, go down and finish the work.

The principle for joining seams is the same both in the vertical direction and in the horizontal direction. We leave 100 mm of mesh without mortar, it just lies on the heat-insulating material. We coat the next section with the mixture (with the capture of a clean strip), apply a mesh with an overlap of 100 mm and level the area with a spatula. Thus, we get smoother and smoother seams on top.

The mesh must be stretched well, positioned in the middle of the layer adhesive solution, it should come out to the surface and its pattern should not be visible.

If the mesh is not stretched and there are bubbles or folds, it will have to be cut and with an overlap of 100 mm, along the edges of the cutout, stick a new mesh.

Remember that you cannot glue the mesh by laying it on an insulation that has not been treated with an adhesive. With a thin reinforcing layer, cracks will appear on the plaster at the joints of the heat-insulating material. Also, surface deformation may be due to the fact that the reinforcing mesh was laid without overlap or unevenly sunk in the mortar.

After the adhesive has dried, the surface must be primed with a plaster layer (2-3 mm). It will chemically separate the plaster layer from the reinforced layer, reduce absorption, and increase the adhesion of the finishing material. Be sure to make sure that the dowel heads are hidden, and the reinforced layer grabs with its head.

Finishing

"Wet facade" in relation to exterior decoration home gives you a wide choice. Traditionally it is: textured plaster, "Bark beetle", under the "fur coat" and coloring.

But after the surface of the reinforced layer of the facade has dried, it must be sanded. A plastic float with an emery nozzle is suitable for this. Movements should be circular, counterclockwise, with little effort. Grab a small area, at arm's length, so that it is convenient to work with it. Then, on the surface, we carry out the dedusting and priming operation.

Materials for the finishing layer "wet facade"

The decorative coating should not reduce the vapor permeability and hydrophobicity of the protective layer, which means that we choose materials that meet such indicators as:

• high vapor permeability;
• resistance to water and adverse natural factors;
• strength.

It will not be possible to independently prepare a plaster mixture for the facade, since the use of a publicly available solution based on sand and cement is not enough. This requires special components and additives. Available for sale facade plaster on polystyrene, its analogues, mineral wool. More details about the materials can be found in the article "Finding out what types of facades and for what houses are used: stone, wood, plastered, translucent, composite".

It is worth remembering that it is better not to combine mixtures from different manufacturers. Famous manufacturers offer their own sets of materials, which necessarily include: glue and plaster solutions, primer, paint for the facade, fasteners. Each composition is selected in such a way that the best combination of strength and durability properties is ensured.

For work, only special formulations for outdoor work. You can learn more about them in the article "Facades", here we will talk about plaster mixes for certain types of insulation.

You can plaster the foam outside:

• mineral mixtures;
• acrylic compounds;
• silicone solutions;
• silicate plasters.

The solution for finishing polystyrene, expanded polystyrene or polystyrene foam must be specialized, designed specifically for working with synthetic insulation. And remember that prices are different manufacturers differ significantly, but choose a high-quality material, since the strength and durability of the coating depends on it.

Heat insulators of the Penoplex company are considered the most effective of all existing ones. So, at the end of 2011 (company data), the share of their products in this segment on the domestic market was 52%. And last May, 2015, the first domestic and the fourth in the world production line with a capacity of 550,000 m 3 of thermal insulation per year was launched in Novomoskovsk.

However, the material is exposed to external factors: sun, frost, wind, shock loads. Under their influence, the heat insulator loses its properties and is subject to destruction. A win-win option for protection is the facade plastering with foam or other insulation materials:

1. Mineral plaster, which consists of cement and polymers. It is endowed with a low coefficient of water absorption, is resistant to fungi and mold, is easy to apply, and is effective when insulating facades.
2. Acrylic composition which is elastic, has good water-repellent characteristics, is not afraid of the influence of UV radiation. If you live in a place with a high level of humidity and do not know how to plaster the penoplex outside, feel free to use this composition.
3. Silicate mixture quite effective, elastic, antistatic, vapor-permeable, resistant to climatic precipitation.
4. Silicate plaster, which has high rates of vapor permeability, elasticity, resistant to aggressive chemical compounds, microorganisms, ultraviolet light. But its cost is much of the above-described compositions, it is applied more difficult and pastel colors prevail in the color palette.

The plastered surface can be made smooth and embossed. When choosing a plaster mix, be sure to look for what texture it is intended for.

In terms of resistance to mechanical stress, experts consider acrylic plaster to be effective, followed by silicate and mineral plaster. The surface texture affects the service life: smooth is more sensitive to external influences.

It is also worth noting that mineral wool is used to insulate the facade. This material has such qualities as:

• good resistance to fire;
• high vapor permeability, water-repellent parameters;
• ecological well-being;
• long service life.

Such insulation will last a long time and will reliably protect the walls of your home. Modern products are treated in the manufacturing process with water-repellent compounds. Previously, the release of formaldehyde resins from it during its production was considered a disadvantage of mineral wool, but modern technologies have helped to get rid of this disadvantage.
In 2009, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC), based on the confirmation of the organization NTP (National Toxicology Program) in the United States, assigned mineral wool the 3rd group according to the IARC classification (IARC / CIRC). This includes materials that do not belong to the category of carcinogens for humans, like tea, coffee. And in 2010, the World Health Organization recognized mineral wool as completely harmless.

The heat insulator is attached to the wall with an adhesive and then, for reliability, dowels with wide heads are hammered in. Further, the process of reinforcement takes place, plastering on mineral wool - as well as on expanded polystyrene, and painting the facade.

Facade plastering technology

The selection of the desired composition is important point when insulating the outer walls of the house. But the quality of the coating depends not only on the material, but also on how to plaster the insulation. This must be done correctly, following a certain sequence.

When plastering, remember that one wall must be worked off at a time, otherwise traces of the connection will remain on the surface.

Insulation plaster is applied to the surface not earlier than 3–7 days after the backing plaster has been applied. Requirements are met SNiP 3.04.01-87 "Insulation and finishing coatings": temperature not lower than + 5 ° С, not higher than + 25 ° С. Not allowed strong wind, precipitation.

To apply the plaster layer you will need:

• a mixer for construction work or a perforator with a nozzle for mixing a solution;
• capacity;
• large and small spatulas;
• half-grater or grater.

If you know how to plaster mineral wool, but you do not know how to plaster penoplex, then understand that there is no difference in the processing of insulation at this stage. First of all, using a mixer, mix the solution in a container, the packaging says detailed instructions... Apply the plaster mortar with a small spatula to a large one and distribute the composition evenly vertically along the wall, pulling it out.

We collect the surplus with a grater, which we hold at a slight slope and easily press it against the wall. Mix the excess plaster with the bulk in the container.

We start grouting the next section of plaster from the junction with the previous one. The solution should not be dry at the junction.

When the layer of plaster grasps a little, with a smooth float dipped in water, we rub the surface in order to level the defects, and then we give the wall the desired texture using graters made of artificial material.

Facade painting

Once the walls are dry, they can be painted. About what paint to choose for work and how to calculate required amount, you can learn from the article "Paint for facades". For work, you will need a ditch, a paint sprayer or a roller on a telescopic handle, brushes, a round brush made of natural bristles, masking tape, plastic wrap.

Any paint will make the color of the facade uniform, it will protect it from moisture and dirt. Everything plaster mix, except for acrylic, we recommend painting.

Be sure to protect the plinth and its top edge. If you paint with a roller or brush, then masking tape is enough, and if you use a spray gun for work, then it is better to cover it with thick paper. Cover windows, sills, metal parts of the building with plastic wrap.

Lime paint is considered extremely beneficial for plastered surfaces as it can be diluted with water, but it is not durable.

When using it for work, follow the requirements GOST 12.3.035-84 SSBT “Construction. Painting works. Safety requirements», do not forget about your safety - use rubberized gloves and goggles. Splashes of paint on the skin are easily washed off with water, only this must be done in a timely manner.

The final paint coat is applied to separate wall in one pass without interruptions so that the joints are not visible on the surface.

Working with a paint sprayer is much faster and more convenient. You need to start from any angle, up and down movements. But be sure to use personal protective equipment: glasses, gloves and clothing.
Paint brushes are needed for painting surfaces in hard-to-reach places.
Working with the roller will not cause any particular difficulties. The area of ​​the site that needs to be processed at a time should not exceed 1 m 2. Roll out a roller in a ditch, it will be saturated with paint, and apply 3-4 stripes on the walls. After that, we roll them with a roller until the paint is evenly distributed over the surface.

Among the most common mistakes are the following:

• Carrying out work under unfavorable climatic conditions, in this case the wet facade forms cracks or swelling of the surface.
• Poor surface preparation.
• Poor and loose joining of heat-insulating material.
• Wrong position of the reinforcement mesh, small overlap.
• Laying the mesh directly on the thermal insulation layer.
• Wrong choice of material and its inadequacy.
• Failure to comply with the rules for fixing insulation in a checkerboard pattern.

Insulating even cottage, you still have to use scaffolding or scaffolding. If you work alone, then in order not to drag them from place to place, it is better to carry out the work in sections: in height for the height of the paver, and in width - to be guided by the dimensions of the scaffold.

Having decided to insulate your house with various materials, you can combine them.

In the picture, the protruding part is faced with a "wet facade". In this case, you should not use mineral wool, as it will sag during installation.

Difficulties in work will be delivered by soldering polystyrene, but the result with this material will be excellent.

The installation of a "wet facade" should be carried out in the spring-summer period, then it will not be necessary to build a heating circuit, which will not entail additional financial investments. If the installation technology is violated, the appearance of a greenhouse effect is likely, and this will have a destructive effect on the plaster layer.