How to make a kitchen set with your own hands: useful information. How to make a kitchen with your own hands from start to finish? Do-it-yourself kitchen set

Home masters, having a broad outlook and a desire to do everything with my own hands, they can make furniture for the kitchen themselves. This not only saves cash but also gain experience and skills. Now there is no difficulty in acquiring all necessary components: panels for furniture, fittings, fasteners. Experience shows what to collect furniture is not a problem, it will be more difficult to create drawings of kitchen furniture with your own hands, you need to take into account all the possible nuances when creating diagrams.

The main requirements for furniture are comfort and operation, ease of maintenance and beauty, all factors depend on the drawing of the future kitchen.

Drawing kitchen furniture

How to take accurate measurements of kitchen furniture and create a sketch based on them

Let's give the simplest example based on a straight-line arrangement of a kitchen set.

The basics of creating kitchens show that in a small kitchen, for rational and convenient use of space, a linear type of furniture arrangement has a certain sequence. The main thing is to arrange all the parts of the kitchen in their order:

1. Refrigerator;
2. Washing;
3. Tabletop (has a width of at least 50 cm);
4. Plate.

Many people wonder what is the logic of such an arrangement of furniture? But the fact is that the basis of kitchen design involves placing all parts of the kitchen in such a way that you spend less time, that is, make less movements when cooking. Thus, the kitchen becomes more convenient for you.

It is worth thinking very carefully, as an open window or door in the work area can interfere with your normal cooking. You will constantly beat on the door, and an open window can blow out the flame on the stove. In the event of such difficulties, it makes sense to make a rearrangement.

Kitchen making - drawings, plans

The first point in the manufacture of drawings of kitchen furniture will be accurate measurements of the room. Knowing the length of the walls, we can easily calculate the dimensions of the cabinets. The height of the walls will finally limit the dimensions of our furniture. After that, we can choose the sizes that are suitable for us. You can use standard parameters and take them as a basis. 850 mm - height of kitchen floor cabinets with top, the width can be taken according to your needs, from 300mm to 800mm. The depth of the box can be in the run-up 400-500 mm. If you put out shelves, it is better to use minimum dimensions so we can save space. But the maximum values ​​​​can be taken if we design hinged doors. According to the standard, we take a sink cabinet with a size of 800 mm. But if the dimensions of the kitchen are small, you can cut it down to 600 mm. Wall cabinets in width it is easier to choose the same as the floor ones. But it is now in fashion to cut cabinets to a depth of 300 mm. Height is usually 715 mm. The standard distance between floor and hanging drawers is 650 mm. But given that the hostess will most often use the cabinets, then you can choose the distance based on her height.

All standard sizes are not a hard requirement. Since the kitchen is made to fit your needs and with your own hands, you can deviate from the standards if you feel more comfortable. However, even here there are subtleties, for example, pay attention to custom sizes kitchen facades. It is from them that the price of the entire furniture set will depend. You also need to remember that in addition to furniture, household appliances will be installed. Its dimensions also need to be transferred to the drawing. After measuring all the components of the kitchen, you can start transferring everything onto paper or into a computer program.

Corner kitchen top cabinet 600 x 600 x 720 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Wall mounted kitchen cabinet 260 x 320 x 720 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Hanging kitchen cabinet 300 x 320 x 720 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Kitchen upper module 340 x 320 x 720 - drawings, sketches (non-standard)

Upper module 600 x 390 x 288 - drawings, sketches (non-standard)

Kitchen upper module 800 x 320 x 720 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Radius kitchen upper module 580 x 320 x 720 - drawings, sketches (non-standard)

Kitchen lower module for the oven 600 x 600 x 860 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Kitchen lower module 260 x 600 x 820 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Kitchen bottom module with shelf 350 x 600 x 860 - drawings, sketches (standard)

Calculation of furniture dimensions

This is the most milestone from the whole project, here you need to strain all your attention and concentrate on the details. You need to break each drawer and cabinet, calculate them separately. On the advice of experts, special attention should be paid to the cabinet for cooking and for the oven, according to them, this is the element where beginners make the most mistakes when designing a kitchen that they do on their own. The drawing of this part must be approached with due attention and concentration.

The main thing in furniture drawings is the ability to break down all the elements of furniture into parts, and then be able to correctly divide them into components. This example includes:

1. Side walls.
2. Back panel.
3. Doors.
4. Shelves.

If a drawer is being designed, then it must also be detailed, with special attention indicating the location furniture fittings. The main thing in this process is to indicate all the drawings accurately, since an error in this matter is unacceptable.

List of required parts

It is always necessary to draw up specifications for the drawings (a list of parts for each of the cabinets) indicating the quantity of all the details of the future kitchen. The main thing Don't forget to include accessories. Parts list example:

• Back wall (DVP).
• Side walls (LDSP).
• Facade (it is usually chosen before the list is made).

The only thing left to do is place an order. The question "Where?" you can't even lift it. In every small town there are enough furniture workshops that, for little money, will cut you from materials into furniture elements. Usually they have enough of an assembly drawing, as well as sketches of each element, broken down into parts.

Making a kitchen with your own hands, starting with the design of a kitchen set and ending with the installation and connection of built-in appliances, is not the most easy task for home master. On the other hand, a modern kitchen is nothing more than a set of cabinet furniture, many elements of which are standardized, and the assembly technology does not differ from the manufacture of more "simple" home furnishings.

If you have not yet had to make furniture from chipboard, I recommend reading this one, and as the first products, you can advise to assemble, for example, a wardrobe. Personally, I acted according to the described scheme and at some point "grew" to making a kitchen with my own hands.

What cuisine are we planning to make?

Our kitchen has an area of ​​about 8.5 meters, a large three-leaf window and a fairly convenient door location. As a window sill, when installing new windows, I mounted a chipboard tabletop 38 mm thick. Its height above the floor (920 mm.) sets the parameters of the lower section, as it is planned to combine everything into a single working area.

In fact, we need to design corner set, overall length 4 r.m., which will be located on two walls and close the space under the windowsill with facades, resulting in a U-shaped kitchen.

Like any sane person, not burdened with extra money, he wanted "budget", but he understood that it makes sense to save only on things that do not affect the functionality of the system. Therefore, the facades in the kitchen will be made of MDF, covered with a film, and not with natural veneer, but the fittings will have a margin for durability and reliability.

The design of the kitchen provides for... What does it provide for?! I need to place a bunch of things that are used on the farm in this space and make it convenient and work - this is the main message. Color solution and the choice of beautiful shape pens - things are subjective and should be taken on family council, so I'll just show what we got. I do not dare to recommend that this is beautiful, but this is not.

I did not make the whole kitchen project in PRO 100, I only calculated individual complex elements. Of course, it is necessary to sketch out a sketch and the general arrangement of the structures of the lower and upper tiers, but only create a 3D model with an accurate transfer of texture and shadows if you don’t feel sorry for your time.

The traditional photograph of the brought cut (this is only a part) reminds that even small kitchen consists of a large number of parts.

We start assembly and subsequent installation from the corner bottom pedestal. As a rule, this is the location of the sink and, accordingly, the water supply and drain pipes pass through this element.

We collect cabinets

All pedestals have a depth of 500 mm, and with a tabletop depth of 600 mm. we get an overhang in front of 50 mm. and, accordingly, the free space between the wall and the cabinet is also 50 mm. Is this a lot or is it normal? 18 mm facades will be added in front, but there will also be handles - in my case 30 mm., So, an overhang of 50 mm. quite justified.

The pipes, the hose for the hob and, in addition, the gas meter pass through with a gap of 50 mm to the wall. (if we take into account the thickness of the tile on the backsplash and the pressing of the countertop not to zero, then all 60). But the desire to win a couple of centimeters of depth that occurs at the design stage is not justified. For a section with drawers, this does not play a role, but with the rest of the cabinets it will only make confusion. We just order 12 sidewalls for six pedestals, all of the same size, convenient and understandable.

AT corner cabinet there are 3 connections, two of them in the area rear wall and arranged vertically. The third, with a vertical arrangement, will reduce access to the inside, and with a horizontal arrangement, it will have to be sawn along with the countertop to install the sink. I went the second way and had to shorten the confirmations, but when the door is opened, there is no bar covering the opening.

All cabinets are assembled according to the principle of false bottom, that is, the sidewalls are on the base. Each pedestal is installed on 4 adjustable supports (6 pieces for the sink), which are subsequently closed with a plinth. In order not to rest with your feet when approaching the working area of ​​​​the kitchen, the plinth is recessed deep into.

The distance from the front edge of the pedestal to the base of the support is 55 mm, which in practice gives a normal appearance and ease of use.

Having collected all the cabinets on one side of the corner, they can be leveled and pulled together with ties.

Chipboard tabletop

AT corner kitchen countertops are connected in at least one place. For this, connecting strips are provided that repeat the shape of the mating surfaces. Quite convenient, except that you need to make a selection from below to install the tightening stud.

I was especially interested in whether the connection would be reliable if the installation of the tightening element was abandoned. I was attaching a countertop to a window sill made of the same material, and my question was addressed to a professional furniture maker precisely at the expense of this section.

In fact, the window sill stands firmly and does not allow the connection to diverge. The pedestal, on which the joint will rest, is located in such a way that it allows screwing screws through the body of its cover into both the window sill and the tabletop to be attached. I assumed that this would be enough, but the specialist's answer was categorical: "definitely not!" This is worth considering and not taking risks, especially since the solution is not so complicated.

We saw off the countertop along the length and give, if necessary, the required shape. A feather drill, a hacksaw and a chisel will help you make the right selection.

Now you can put the tabletop back in place. I would very much like to perform this procedure only once, but it just so happens that the lack of proper experience makes you pay with unnecessary manipulations. I had to remove and put back in place twice, which in conditions small room Kitchens are not only inconvenient, but also increase the risk of damage.

Putting the tabletop in its place and grabbing it with self-tapping screws through the connections, we get a kind of workbench on which you can cut out. But there is one problem: when we saw wood, we get sawdust, and when we saw sawdust, we get fine dust, in the case of chipboard countertops - green. You will have to remove it because of the installed pedestals, which is very inconvenient. I had to take it off again and saw it in an open place.

We install and connect the hob. Nothing complicated, everything is quite clearly described in the attached instructions. At the Gorenie brewing company, there are two ways to fix the device to the countertop: mini brackets with self-tapping fixation and wedges. I got wedges, which, in my opinion, should be called "no room for error", since during installation the surface is pressed in until it stops. You can’t take it back out - the wedges work on the principle of a fishing hook.

The junction of the countertop with the window sill began to look like this:

Electrical connection

Moving sockets and switches when installing a new kitchen set is a common occurrence. Of course, it’s good when, during the repair, you have a project for the future kitchen in your hands and all the wiring is done for it. I didn’t have a project and this is what it led to.

There is a washing machine in the kitchen and a separate machine is placed under the group of sockets in the niche. I did not imagine that we would choose as oven electric and place it on the countertop. I had to move sockets. The only thing that pleases, in the case of the kitchen, you can make external wiring, anyway, nothing will be visible behind the cabinets.

I also miscalculated with the hob during the repair. For electric ignition, in any case, a connection is required and this must be remembered. It’s good that there are sockets nearby and you can stretch the wire through drywall in a few minutes.

There are two more consumers of electricity present in any modern kitchen. This is a hood located above the stove and lighting working area. Here are mine approximate calculations almost coincided with what was actually needed when installing kitchen furniture. The error is only a few centimeters, the benefit is to the side that will be closed.

The conclusion suggests itself - the location of sockets, lamps and the layout of wires is optimally carried out with finished project. In this case, you will save time, money and your own strength, and installation kitchen appliances will be much easier.

Cabinet for washing machine

How do you make a cabinet in a kitchen set designed for installation washing machine? The correct answer is none. In the case when the machine is located between two full-fledged cabinets, they simply leave space for it and cover everything with a single table top. We have a different layout and had to come up with our own design.

It is assumed that the machine will be closed by a facade, so an additional sidewall has been added to the last pedestal. As a material savings, it is quite possible to limit yourself to a bar that allows you to fully install the hinges.

The second sidewall of this conditional pedestal also consists of two layers of chipboard different sizes in height. Adjustable supports on the M6 ​​thread are installed in the lower end. Details are connected by furniture couplers.

Scraps from two countertops were enough to cover the car with only additional docking. It added an extra connection bar and took away from the aesthetics, but it still works.

A ledge 16 mm deep is made at the end of the tabletop, at a distance of 550 mm. Therefore, there is a pressing to the part made of light laminated chipboard and leaning on the dark one. Additionally, three confirmations are screwed into the end of the tabletop through the body of the light part.

Before replacing the washing machine, I laid a piece of sheet rubber on the floor, sold in the "household" under the name "rubber mat". This additional measure, which excludes the shift of the machine during operation, however, this rug resists installation in the cabinet with the same force.

The next module to be assembled is a place for installing an oven. Of the design features, only the presence of a gap for air circulation can be noted. In my case, this is the right wall and the lid - they are 30 mm. don't reach the wall.

The lid is planted on dowels, in contrast to the bottom fastening, which is made on confirmations and will be closed with a plinth.

Drawers

It's no secret that various retractable systems are the basis modern kitchen. But many experience an unpleasant feeling when they get acquainted with the prices of various ready-made solutions from European manufacturers. The number of boxes that you want to have in your kitchen, multiplied by the number of dollars at which the seller evaluates them, is by no means equal to the number of rubles that are supposed to be spent on this purchase.

How can you save money and not lose in functionality and reliability? We need drawers that are built to our exact dimensions, fully extendable, and have a smooth closing action.

The meaning of all ready systems extensions, this is the sale of a set of guides and parts of parts for creating boxes of various sizes. By purchasing a kit, you do not receive a fully assembled set for assembling a drawer, but you are forced to order a cut of parts of the parts - usually the bottom of the drawer and the back wall.

If you go to make the boxes completely out of chipboard, you can significantly reduce costs. In this case, flush-mounted guides are used, which are produced by the same manufacturers. The design process must begin with the choice of guides, since the design of the box is tied to technical features extension mechanism.

I used guides from Blum, with a dynamic load of up to 40 and 60 kg. The photo shows that the sides of the box protrude below the bottom plane (13 mm.). All recommendations on filler sizes and installation features are in the manufacturer's catalog.

At the expense of Blum, I would like to say a few words. Recommending the purchase of accessories from this manufacturer is like advising the purchase of Mercedes cars. There are a lot of manufacturers and Blum is one of the most famous. Its products are reliable, functional, durable and, as a result, not cheap.

But is it always justified to purchase all the kitchen accessories of this particular brand? A similar question was raised on the profile forum and this is what the collective mind decided: there is one type of common device where alternatives to Blum in various parameters simply do not exist. This is the Aventos HF folding lift.

Regarding the loops, guides and other things, the opinion of the members of the forum was not so categorical. Actually, I was going to buy lifts from Blum, and I had already chosen guides and hinges and was going to buy from Grass, but a trip to the Perm representative office of Blum changed my plans.

In addition to the fact that they offered me a lower price for the lift than indicated on the website, the issue was also resolved in favor of Blum on the guides. With a difference of 150 rubles per set, I think the choice is obvious.

In total, the kitchen will have two modules with drawers, four in each. The bottom one is made for storing large dishes and has a useful depth of 240 mm. The other three are equal in height and can accommodate objects up to 110 mm.

This is a cabinet over which a hob is installed. Pay attention to the installation of connections, they are located under the top drawer and do not block the air circulation necessary for operation. gas burners. Slots in 6 mm. between the front of the top drawer and the worktop is enough for air exchange.

Pay attention to the filler dimensions when assembling the boxes, since for two outwardly similar guides of the same company, but with different articles, an important parameter for assembly may change. I did not ask for dimensions in the company's catalog, but simply scored in the search for "installing Blum guides" and performed drilling according to the scheme from the article. The result is an error in the location of the blind hole in the back wall of the box.

It is good that such a mistake can be corrected with the help of dowels and a drop of PVA. We drive the beech dowel into the hole, having previously applied glue.

We saw off flush with the plane and mark the center of the new drilling with an awl.

After these steps, the box is confidently fixed on the guide and works properly. Since the corrected hole is located on the outer part of the back wall, no one will see the error and its correction.

Kitchen hanging cabinets

Here are some questions I had during the design process:

• What sizes for kitchen cabinets are applicable, that is, their range and what size is optimal (used in industrial series and therefore tested comprehensively)?
• What canopies are optimal for attaching lockers?
• How to calculate the facade for a corner cabinet?

The fact that the width of the wall cabinets can be anything and depends solely on the ease of use and overall design, becomes clear when viewing kitchen catalogs. Looking at the parameters of Ikea products, you can determine that, in their understanding, a cabinet height of 100 cm is a common practice. We have installed in our kitchen forced ventilation, closed by a box and the maximum that you can count on does not exceed 75 cm.

In the Western standard, the most common depth of a cabinet without a front is 37 cm, which can also be considered a kind of guideline. Although, in the matter of depth, it is much more important to proceed from the minimum. It can be determined by the characteristics of fittings and equipment used in the cabinet for drying dishes. In my case, the allowable minimum was 310 mm. In practice, it turns out that we choose a drying rack for dishes and a lift - their dimensions and installation requirements will set the parameters of the wall cabinets in depth.

Adjustable canopies are plastic (only some of the parts are made of steel) and all-metal. The difference in price is about 2-3 times. Plastic manufacturers claim that the allowable load is calculated with a margin, etc., but there were precedents for a fall. Of course, this can be attributed to an insignificant percentage of marriage, but somehow I don’t want to check it myself. So I chose completely metal.

The calculation of the size of the facade for a corner cabinet is devoted to a sufficient amount of materials on the profile forum. But the disputes do not subside, and when ordering, I did not leave the feeling that there was an error somewhere. For straight cabinets and cabinets, the calculation algorithm is clear - the width of the case is minus 3 mm. or 4 mm., if you want to see a gap between facades of a larger size. For a corner cabinet, the calculated width of the facade depends, among other things, on its thickness.

I ordered facades from MDF 16 mm thick. and used the formula: facade width = opening size + 1 mm. In my case, the size of the opening is 400 mm, respectively, the facade is 401 mm. Everything works and opens, but be it 1 mm. wider, opening problems cannot be avoided.

With the installation of a corner cabinet, the installation of a number of mounted modules begins. But first you need to fix the mounting plate. In my case, the walls are made of drywall, and one wall is a partition sheathed double layer GKL. Therefore, it is extremely important to get screws into the racks.

Unobtrusive domestic service - not all the details of the cut arrived the first time ...

Connecting the hood is complicated by the fact that you have to connect to an already installed forced hood. But when buying, I was only interested in one parameter - the noise level during operation. Of course the manufacturers lie. They indicate in the tables the noise level for the first position of the power regulator. Turn on 3 and you will feel all the decibels that you forgot to mention.

On the sides of the hood there are two cabinets, when assembling which, it is better to use dowels, in any case, to fix the bottom. I got a little carried away when drilling and first assembled like this:

Glue, clamps and beech dowels will allow you to change the look without losing strength.

While you are waiting for the facades, life in the kitchen goes on and, accordingly, the photographs are somewhat different from the production samples flaunting in the catalogs...

A niche under the window sill made it possible to organize a small storage compartment.

I did not assemble the cabinets on legs, but assembled the plinth and bottom into one structure, which will be attached "tightly" to the wall.

The heating battery must not be closed. In addition, I wanted to have easy access to it, but hide it out of sight. We decided to close the facade in the form of a frame and pull it with inside rattan. It turned out that the paint fits perfectly on the rattan, and the process of attaching to the frame is not too complicated.

facades

By this time, all the facades were ready and safely delivered to the apartment. Make a kitchen with MDF facades film-coated, it is not only economical profitable solution, but also the possibility of the widest choice of color schemes. This option of kitchen fronts is well suited for use by those who do not have serious experience in making furniture. Film pattern "under the tree" will never replace the tactile sensations from touching the facades of wood. But if there is an extra 100 thousand for noble material, then, as a rule, the question of "do it yourself" is not so relevant.

The process of installing facades is a pleasant occupation and brings a lot positive emotions, because you can finally see the end product of your multi-day efforts. It is assumed that all strikers for the hinges were installed during the assembly of cabinets and cabinets.

Pay attention to the extremely convenient template for marking the installation of the striker. I bought together with Blum hinges and I can say that the thing is very convenient and saves a lot of time.

I install the hinges to the facades using a bar, which is pressed against two hinges at the same time. sets them to their correct position.

We hang facades and adjust the size of the gaps.

This completes the process of making a kitchen with your own hands. Behind the scenes, there was a backlight located at the bottom of the hanging boxes. This is 4 invoices spotlights on LEDs, flat - about 30 mm. in height.

Kitchen furniture is an extremely necessary and rather expensive element of the interior. You can significantly reduce costs by making a kitchen set with your own hands. Fortunately, there are no problems with the acquisition of accessories and materials for its production, but various projects and design options are just huge.

Do-it-yourself kitchen design

The production of a kitchen set begins with a project. The project requires the overall dimensions of the place where it will be installed. After that, you can begin to select the constituent elements.

Fig.1.

Kitchen set consists of drawers, which can have different contents, from shelves to drawers. For compartments of both the upper and lower rows, standard widths are set from 15 cm to 100 cm, in increments of 5 cm, i.e. 15, 20, 25, 30, 35 cm, etc. You need to know them for design.

When preparing a project, one should be guided by standard sizes, because All fittings are made with them in mind.

When determining the layout, it should be taken into account that standard height the drawers of the bottom row are 72 cm, the top ones can be 60, 72 or 90 cm. The depth of the bottom row is 55 cm, the top one is 30 cm.

Of course, when making a kitchen set with your own hands, you can install arbitrary sizes, but then you have to give up finished components kitchens (for example, facade), and all elements are made individually.

In the event that standard drawers do not fill the entire space allotted for the kitchen, then in the remaining space they make either shelves according to individual sizes.

A distinctive feature has a corner kitchen set. The corner kitchen cabinet can be of several options: straight (Fig. 2) and with an angle of 135 degrees (Fig. 3). The same feature applies to the top row (Fig. 4).

Fig.2.

Fig.3.

Fig.4.

A corner cabinet for a sink (see the drawing above) is often used if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room allows, for small kitchens a straight cabinet. Thus, a rectangular or round sink is installed in a straight line, and a corner or round sink is installed in a corner one.

When preparing a furniture project for the kitchen, the following recommendations should be observed:

• The place for installing the plate should be equal to the width of it itself, usually 50, 60 cm.
• For a built-in stove, the cabinet must be 60 cm wide and at least 55 cm deep. The same applies to the oven.
• The space for the hood should be 60 cm for built-in and 90 for other types.
• The distance between the hood and the stove must be at least 70 cm. The height of the built-in hood cabinet must be 30 cm less than the others.
• The space under the refrigerator must be at least 60 cm.
• Roll-out baskets are installed in kitchen cabinets of standard size only.

How to make a kitchen from chipboard yourself

Making a kitchen with your own hands from chipboard is the easiest way, since this material can be called traditional for such furniture. Laminated chipboard, abbreviated chipboard, is used with a thickness of 16 mm. All elements are made of chipboard except for the countertop and apron.

The facades of kitchen sets are made of laminated chipboard, chipboard glued with plastic (postforming technology), and MDF.

The back wall of the cabinets is made of fiberboard or laminated fiberboard, 4.6 mm thick.

The countertop of the kitchen set is made using postforming technology. It can be 28.32 and 38 (40) mm thick.

How to build a kitchen with your own hands? Three approaches can be distinguished. The first is to make all the details yourself from chipboard boards, the second is to make them to order, the third is to buy ready-made elements and assemble kitchen furniture from them. Finished cabinets can be purchased at stores such as IKEA, Leroy Merlin, etc.

The most economical and medium complexity option is when the detailing of kitchen cabinets is done independently and all elements are made to order, after which the assembly is done by hand. The advantage of this method is that you can make parts according to individual sizes and at the same time save a lot of money.

To order parts, it is necessary to draw a kitchen and determine all dimensions, as well as the need for edging material and the presence of mounting holes.

The cutting of the kitchen is carried out on the basis of the following considerations. The dimensions of the side walls of the cabinets are the height and depth of the cabinet. Dimensions of the bottom and lid: the width is equal to the width of the cabinet minus 32 mm, the height is equal to its depth.

The edge is made of plastic with a thickness of 0.4 and 2 mm. It is necessary to protect the ends chipboard boards from moisture and mechanical damage. It is desirable to glue it on all ends of the parts. In order to save, edge tape can be omitted on invisible ends.

Ready holes for fasteners (additive) greatly facilitate, but introduce additional costs for the manufacture of parts. If savings are not in the first place, then before you cut the kitchen, you need to prepare drawings of kitchen cabinets with detailing.

The table top and front, as well as the drawers, can be made to order or purchased ready-made.

Assembling kitchen furniture with your own hands

Assembly begins with lockers. Their parts are connected with the help of a confirmation (Fig. 8). Holes for it are drilled, stepping back from the end of 8 mm, with a plate thickness of 16 mm. Assembly is easy to do using special device as in fig. 5. It is easy to make it from scraps with your own hands. To simplify the drilling of holes for confirmation, it is convenient to use a special drill (Fig. 6). You can make an additive in each part separately; for this, it is convenient to use a jig (Fig. 7).

Fig.5.

Fig.6.

Fig.7.

Fig.8.

On assembled cabinets back wall is installed. Next, the legs are mounted. They can be decorative or adjustable plastic, then the kitchen base is attached to the legs. Them standard length 100, 120 and 150 mm.

Fig.9.

The lockers are put into place one by one and pulled together. For tightening, a special intersectional screed is used. Alternatively, self-tapping screws 30 mm long can be used. They won't work any better. Self-tapping screw caps can be hidden with a self-adhesive plug, and the confirmation caps are also masked.

Fig.10.

The upper cabinets are pulled together after installation in place. An adjustable suspension is used to install wall cabinets. It allows you to set all the elements horizontally and vertically.

Fig.11.

The final step in assembling the frame is the installation of the countertop. The tabletop is attached to the cabinets with self-tapping screws 30 mm long.

Fig.12.

Installation of the facade, sink, plinth

On the finished frame, you can install a facade, plinth, sink, etc.

The facade is attached with hinges. On the doors, recesses (milling) are made under the hinge cup. Depending on its size, the diameter of the recess is different. It is advisable to order milling for loops when cutting. It is not expensive, but it will avoid additional work, possible errors and the need to purchase a special Forstner drill.

Fig.13.

When installing doors in corner cabinets it is necessary to use hinges with a non-standard opening angle.

Fig.14.

After the doors are installed, you can install the handles.

For a kitchen base, a chipboard part or a special plastic strip can be used. The use of the latter is preferable, as it is protected from moisture and will last much longer.

The base plate is attached to the legs of the kitchen set. It is advisable to drown the plinth into the body of the kitchen set by 7-10 cm, so it will be more convenient to use the kitchen.

Fig.15.

Most sinks are built into the countertop. Using the template that comes with the sink, the cut line is marked. After preparing the hole, the sink is installed using special fasteners.

Fig.16.

Apron for kitchen set

An apron is an integral element of any kitchen that decorates and protects the wall between the countertop and the top row of cabinets. It can be made of MDF or ceramic tiles.

MDF apron can be purchased ready-made or made to order. It is attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, which are later hidden by corner plates.

Fig.17.

How to make an apron for the kitchen with your own hands? It is very simple - to make it from ceramic tiles. However, this approach is longer, because installation work may take several days. At the same time, a tile backsplash is more durable and fundamental, which cannot but affect the design.

Fig.18.

The final element is the wall plinth. He has and functional purpose- closes the junction of the apron and the kitchen set, thereby preventing dirt and moisture from entering unprotected areas.

Illumination of kitchen furniture

The lighting on the kitchen set is not only an element of decor, but also lighting of the work area, which directly affects fatigue, so it is important to make good and functional lighting.

Fig.19.

As can be seen from the infographics (Fig. 19), the most functional is the backlight under kitchen cabinets. You can make the lighting of the working area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe kitchen from led strip. To do this, it is glued to the bottom wall of the top row of cabinets. Kitchen countertop lighting can be made using special boxes with a diffuser for ice tape.

Fig.20.

Drawings of kitchen sets

Fig.21.

Hello dear friends.

It is this moment, by and large, most interesting to beginner furniture makers.

In this article, I will try to talk about it, and briefly describe the whole process from design to installation.

So, from the very beginning, you need to study the room where it is planned to manufacture a kitchen set, and decide (in general terms) which set (in this particular room) makes sense. For example, if the room is not large, then, most likely, you need to make a direct kitchen in it, which occupies the least amount of free space.

If the room is large, then the kitchen can be made corner, U-shaped, island, but whatever. Plus, on big kitchen there is an opportunity to "turn around design ideas"!

But design is a separate topic, we will not touch it, but we will go further.

When the configuration of the future product is determined (taking into account all the nuances of the room), you can proceed to measuring the room.

I won’t write much about measurement, you can read on this topic, but about how to draw it graphically correctly -.

Here, at the measurement, it is already possible to “sketch” a sketch of the future kitchen, and decide on overall dimensions(roughly) that this particular kitchen (which is on the sketch) is suitable for this room.

On this, organizational issues are running out. It's time for design.

The measurement of the premises and the creation of the project are the most crucial moments in the entire process, therefore, they must be taken very seriously, without haste, with double-checking.

How is the project done?

First, gaps are given for the lower and upper kitchen bases, after which, the overall dimensions are divided into parts (for modules), the alignment of the modules is calculated (for example, the lower module for the hob and the upper module for the hood), the position of all built-in appliances is distributed, in a word , the overall dimensions are divided into dimensions of individual modules.

After that, each module is calculated in detail.

This work is already better done in the program (, for example).

If the set to be installed is angular or U-shaped, then the lower base is installed completely, with all corner elements, after which the countertops are installed.

But, in this version, the two corner elements of the bottom were installed after the main base was installed, and the tabletop was fixed on it. But, it is better for beginners not to do this, but to do as it is said in the first case.

After installing the bottom, the top is hung.

An axis is marked on the wall, on which it is hung mounting plate, on which, in turn, the upper modules are hung.

It is difficult to argue with the statement that the favorable atmosphere in the house largely depends on the quality of the kitchen and the convenience of its use, and experienced housewives will add that good kitchen- it's also saved nerves. Therefore, the question of how to independently make a kitchen always remains relevant.

Choosing a factory, ready-made kitchen is not so easy. You may not like the design, colors, functionality, or the kitchen simply does not fit into the complex configuration of the room (corner, etc.). Therefore, many people prefer to roll up their sleeves and start making their own kitchen.

The user experience of our portal with the nickname is interesting himch, who made a frame for the kitchen with his own hands, from a galvanized metal profile.

himch Member of FORUMHOUSE

The development of the kitchen, I began with the study of the subject. The kitchen consists of several main parts. These are the frame, drawer mechanisms, facades, countertops, built-in appliances and equipment.

Those. the frame, in fact, is the base of any kitchen, on which the remaining elements are then hung / attached. Therefore, the overall service life of the kitchen largely depends on the choice of frame material - the "foundation" of the entire structure.

The frame of a standard kitchen is usually made of chipboard or chipboard (chipboard or laminated particleboard).

Do-it-yourself kitchen frame from chipboard.

Not everyone likes (in terms of durability and reliability) "pressed chips", especially if a heavy stone countertop is to be installed.

In this case, there is another version of the "kitchen for centuries" - this is gaining popularity in last years. But this technology, due to the presence of "wet" processes, labor intensity and the heavy weight of the final kitchen, it is not suitable for everyone.

Looking ahead, let's say that the user wanted to put a granite countertop weighing about 300 kg. That's why himch, considering all the pros and cons various options, opted for a durable kitchen frame made of galvanized steel profile 42x42 mm (it is also called a mounting traverse).

Such a kitchen frame is actually assembled according to the principle of a designer from prefabricated parts.

At the first stage, you only need to cut the profile to the desired size.

himch

I decided not to save money and used the "brand" profile of a well-known company. One of the advantages of this profile, in addition to the quality of steel, is that there are teeth on the inner surface of the profile, for which fasteners cling perfectly.

Also, a tooth pitch of 1 mm sets the accuracy with which the frame can be assembled. Another plus of this frame profile is that you only need to use a set of conventional tools for assembly - wrench and a cutting saw for metal.

During the assembly process, any element of the metal frame can be easily unscrewed, moved, shifted, which greatly simplifies installation.

Having chosen this option, we first calculate the parameters of the frame, which depend on the dimensions of the purchased facades. Embedded appliances are produced standard dimensions, which (as well as the dimensions of the facades) can be viewed on the manufacturer's website.

Do not forget that the built-in oven is mounted inside the frame, on supports, and the dishwasher is simply placed inside the frame like a cabinet.

Only having estimated where and how the household appliances will stand, as well as having calculated all the dimensions of the kitchen, the height, depth and other parameters of the frame, we proceed to cutting the profile.

For kitchen functionality himch advises in its lower part to always arrange drawers and only in one place - under the sink, install the door.

DIY kitchen frames.

himch

Vertical profiles divide the frame into sections, and also serve as a support for horizontal connections between frames, to which the drawer mechanisms are screwed. To ensure the spatial rigidity of the frame, I attached the rear frame to the wall.

The next step is to set all parts of the frame strictly according to the level, guiding vertical profiles with a step that is a multiple of 0.6 and 0.9 m (according to the developed project of this kitchen).

According to the user, thanks to high-quality fasteners, the frame turned out to be very rigid even without horizontal ties, only due to the fact that it was screwed to the wall.

Having assembled the frame, we proceed to the installation of household appliances. First himch put in the dishwasher.

A separate module was taken under the machine and fixed it to uprights using 2 metal corners.

The oven was placed on shelves made of two profiles, a tin screen, which came with the oven, was placed on them, and the equipment was fixed on the front side with four self-tapping screws.

After the equipment is installed, we proceed to the third stage - the installation of drawer mechanisms.

himch

Boxes, in order to save time, I decided to make from chipboard.

To do this, at the place of their purchase, right in the construction hypermarket, chipboard was cut to size for the bottom and back wall of the boxes.

Edge trimming was done by the user with an iron. After the boxes were assembled, with self-tapping screws with a drill for metal, retractable mechanisms attached to profiles.

How the assembly was carried out, the following photos clearly demonstrate.

We fasten, using the provided holes, brackets to the vertical racks.

We fasten on them horizontal connections with screwed sliding mechanisms.

Insert boxes.

At this stage, it is necessary to carefully align the profiles with sliding mechanisms, because. a slight deviation from the horizontal will cause the drawers to close tightly or skew them. To set everything to 0, the user used two bubble level and a laser level. The work took time, but due to the fact that all the elements can be unscrewed, the process was greatly simplified. We do it this way: loosen the nut, tap on the profile with a rubber mallet to move it and, setting the “horizon”, tighten the nut.

himch

I can tell you to work with metal frame very comfortably. Everything is easy to adjust, you won't break anything. After tightening the screws, the sliding mechanisms are tightly fixed.

Let's also say that at first, when opening and closing the drawers, the noise from the operation of the mechanisms was transmitted to the metal of the frame, but after the facades and the countertop were installed, this unpleasant effect disappeared.

For easy adjustment of profiles in depth himch went to such a trick - cut off the traverse 2 cm shorter than necessary.

This gave a lot of freedom of action.

After aligning all the boxes, we proceed to the installation of facades. To simplify the marking task for ourselves, we purchase special templates that we install on the boxes at the attachment points of the facades.

The feature of the template is sharp steel protrusions. We attach the facade to the box, lightly hit it with a fist, and on the inside there are marks / places for installing fasteners. Next, we fasten the fasteners to the facade, press, press and snap it.

We act similarly with the rest of the facades. At this stage of the work, the kitchen began to look more like a finished product.

We go to the finish line - the installation of granite countertops.

At the very beginning, we mentioned that the countertop weighs almost three centners. So that it does not crack during further operation due to possible skew (since the area of ​​\u200b\u200bsupport on the metal profile of a fragile material is small, and deviations of the supporting surface from the horizontal are possible), himch did the following. Before installing the countertop, to create a reliable base, I sewed up the frame with an aquapanel ( cement board reinforced with fiberglass).