Curly roses, planting and care. climbing rose

perfect flower for vertical gardening - a climbing rose, planting and caring for which require certain rules to be followed. With their help, it is possible to create columns, arches, garlands and pyramids, they are used to decorate arbors, walls of houses, fences. Compositions that include several varieties at the same time are especially impressive.

Plants require good lighting and little breeze. With a lack of sunlight, the ripening of the stems, which will bloom next year, is delayed. However, in order to lengthen the flowering period, you should choose places in which there was a shadow for at least 2-3 hours a day.

It is not recommended to plant a climbing rose in a sun-drenched place: the petals can burn out and the stems get burned. You should not choose the corners of buildings: roses cannot stand drafts. The most suitable place will be where the sun will heat the bushes right in the morning, as a result, the dew will quickly evaporate, and powdery mildew can be avoided.

Climbing roses are planted in spring and autumn. In plants planted in spring, shoots and leaves develop faster, but do not have time to form a strong root system She doesn't have time for that. When planted in autumn, rooting occurs quickly, in spring the plants are fully prepared for flowering.

In more severe climatic conditions, autumn plantings are undesirable: roses that have not had time to get stronger by winter may not endure frost and die.

It is preferable to plant them in the spring, so that before the onset of cold weather they have time to develop and prepare for them.

The soil is dug up a few months before the proposed planting, humus, peat, lime are added to it. On the eve of planting, manure should be applied (if the soil is acidic - dolomite flour) and water generously.

The bush also requires special training. Shoots and roots are pruned, leaving 20-30 cm, so that in the future the bush will bloom profusely. The places where the roots are pruned are powdered with ash, the sections of the shoots are treated with garden pitch to protect against infections.

The size of the pit for climbing roses should be 50x50 cm. When planting, the root neck of the bush is positioned so that it is covered by a layer of earth by about 10 cm. When planting several rose bushes near the planting site, there should be a distance to the support of at least 45 cm. It is recommended to mulch the soil under the bush with grass or sawdust.

The plant is resistant to drought, watering is required once a week. Worse when wet appearance roses, some diseases may develop. Cultivation of climbing roses in regions with severe frosts needs shelter.

Implementation of care

In preparation for winter, pruning is performed: unripened shoots are removed. As soon as the air temperature drops to -5 ° C, it is necessary to remove the shoots from the supports and lay them down (after pouring dry grass, spruce branches on the ground). From above, the shoots are covered with straw or dry leaves, then with a film. In the spring, the shelter is removed and the roses are placed on supports.

It is important to clean the shelter in time: with high humidity and lack of fresh air they can get sick. Returning to the supports after removing the shelter, they are laid in a spiral or horizontally so that the roses begin to form flowers with renewed vigor, and not new shoots.

Proper care of roses means timely pruning, which maintains a healthy appearance and promotes abundant flowering. In the spring, weak and frozen branches are cut off, after flowering - faded shoots. This helps to rejuvenate the bush and replace the shoots with new ones.

We should not forget about plant nutrition: during the growing season, complex fertilizers intended for roses or mullein infusion are applied. It is recommended to alternate organic fertilizers with mineral fertilizers or use them simultaneously. Before flowering, 5 top dressings are necessary; from the beginning of flowering, manure should not be applied.

In the process of growing, reproduction is of no small importance. Reproduction by layering is recommended in the spring: the shoot is bent to the ground, part is sprinkled with soil with the addition of humus and watered regularly. By the spring of next year, the shoot takes root, it is separated from mother plant, further grown as an independent plant.

When propagated by cuttings, they are cut from the middle of the shoot (there must be at least 4 buds) at the end of flowering. After planting the cuttings in the ground, it is necessary to water them and loosen them.

Climbing rose: reproduction and care (video)

Major diseases and pests

More often affected by powdery mildew and bark cancer. Powdery mildew occurs in hot weather with high humidity, white spots are noticeable on the leaves, gradually increasing in size. Growth and flowering stop, the plant may die. Must be treated with Bordeaux liquid.

It is not uncommon to find bark cancer after removing the shelter. There are small bright brown spots on the bark. Gradually, they grow, capture the escape completely. It is necessary to remove the affected areas and burn. As a preventive measure, you should cover the plant and remove the shelter in a timely manner, and also do not use it for top dressing in the fall. nitrogen fertilizers.

Climbing roses can attack aphids and spider mites, to combat them, infusion treatment is used horsetail(if there are few pests) or insecticides.

Despite the fact that climbing roses are not exactly easy to grow and require care, their beauty allows you to transform how garden plot and exquisite garden.

How to plant and care for a climbing rose (video)

Gallery: climbing roses (15 photos)

climbing roses- These are types of rose hips and some varieties of garden roses with long branching shoots. All of them are representatives of the Rosehip genus and occupy one of the leading places in the vertical gardening of arbors, walls and buildings, perfectly combined with architectural forms large and small sizes. Climbing roses are indispensable for creating such decorative garden structures as pyramids, columns, garlands, arbors and arches. They look great in compositions with other flowers and plants, so they are as popular as any spray or indoor rose.

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Planting and caring for climbing roses (in brief)

• Landing: from the last ten days of September to mid-October or from mid-April to the end of May.
• Bloom: from late spring to late autumn.
• Lighting: bright light in the first half of the day, diffused light or partial shade in the second.
• The soil: optimal - moisture-permeable fertile loam with deep groundwater.
• Watering: once every 7-10 days, spending 1-2 buckets of water on each bush.
• Top dressing: bushes of the first year are fed only in August with potash fertilizer, bushes of the second year - with full mineral and organic fertilizers alternately, making 5 top dressings per season, and from the third year of life, roses are fed in the same mode, but exclusively with organic matter. During flowering, roses do not fertilize.
• Garter: as a support, you can use a fence, a wall of a house, dry wood or special designs - lattices, arches and arcs made of metal rods. The shoots are tied to the support with twine.
• Pruning: spring and autumn.
• Reproduction: seeds, layering, cuttings and grafting.
• Pests: aphids, spider mites, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms, cicadas.
• Diseases: powdery mildew, bacterial cancer, coniothyrium, gray rot, black spotting.

Read more about growing climbing roses below.

Climbing roses - description

Give general description climbing roses, the task is too complicated due to their huge variety, so we suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the classification of climbing roses adopted in international flower growing practice.

The first group of climbing roses, the so-called climbing roses, or rambler roses (Rambler) are plants with long creeping or arcuate flexible bright green spiked stems up to five meters long or more. The leaves of the Rambler climbing rose are leathery, shiny and small. Flowers - weakly scented, simple, semi-double or double, up to 2.5 cm in diameter - are collected in inflorescences and are located along the entire length of the shoot. Abundant flowering of climbing roses of this group lasts a little more than a month in the first half of summer. Most varieties are hardy and winter well under light cover. The plants of the Rambler group originated from such species as the Vihura rose and the multiflora rose (multiflora).

As a result of crossing a group of rambler roses with tea, hybrid-tea, remontant roses and a floribunda rose, a group of climbing roses with shoots up to four meters long was formed, which they called climbing roses - Climber, or climbing large-flowered roses - climbers. Roses of this group bloom profusely big flowers- from 4 cm in diameter or more - collected in small loose inflorescences, many varieties bloom twice per season. Flowers are shaped like hybrid tea roses. Plants of this group are relatively winter-hardy and are almost not affected by powdery mildew.

The third group, Climbing, was formed by mutating large-flowered spray roses - hybrid tea, grandiflora and floribunda. Claimings differ from producing species only in stronger growth, later fruiting and even larger flowers - from four to eleven centimeters in diameter, which grow singly or in small inflorescences. Many varieties of climings bloom repeatedly. Roses of this group are grown only in the southern regions of the temperate zone with mild warm winters.

Planting climbing roses

When and where to plant climbing roses

All types of roses are quite capricious - it is not for nothing that the rose is called the queen of flowers. Climbing roses are no exception - planting and caring for climbing roses must be thought out to the smallest detail, and growing climbing roses should begin with choosing a site. These plants need bright light in the first half of the day so that the sun can dry the dew on the leaves and leave no chance for fungal diseases to settle on roses, however, the midday sun can already cause burns on the leaves and delicate petals of the plant, so in the afternoon, a plot with climbing roses must be protected from direct rays. In addition, the place where climbing roses grow must be protected from the cold north and northeast winds, and the location of the climbing rose on the corner of the building is undesirable due to drafts that depress tender plant. It is best to place climbing roses on the south side of the building, especially since they do not require much space - for planting roses, a strip of land fifty centimeters wide is enough, provided that the nearest wall, plant and any other object are no closer than half a meter.

The soil for climbing roses must be permeable, but where groundwater is too close to the surface, roses are planted on specially arranged elevations - the root system of climbing roses sometimes goes two meters deep. To avoid stagnant water in the roots, roses are planted on a site located under a slope, at least minimal. Of all types of soils, loams are most suitable for climbing roses. Too light sandy or heavy clay soils will have to be adapted: sand is added to the clay for digging to the depth of the shovel bayonet, and clay is added to the sandy soil, and in order for the soils to become fertile, humus or humus must be added to them along with bone meal as phosphorus fertilizer . It is necessary to prepare a site for a rose in advance - preferably six months or at least a month or two before planting.

As for the timing of landing, in the conditions temperate climate it is best to plant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. You can plant roses in the spring - from mid-April to the end of May.

Planting a climbing rose in autumn

Before proceeding to the description of the landing process, it makes sense to talk about what planting material prefer. Both saplings of own-rooted roses and saplings of roses grafted onto wild roses go on sale. What is the difference between them? Grafted roses differ from own-rooted ones in that their root represents one plant, and the shoots represent another, that is, a scion of a varietal climbing rose is grafted onto a wild rose root. Therefore, both planting and caring for a grafted rose, although slightly, differ from planting and caring for a rooted rose. For example, the planting depth of a grafted rose should be such that the grafting site is 10 cm below the surface. A grafted rose planted in this way begins to form roots from the cultural part of the bush, and the roots of the wild rose, losing their purpose, gradually die off. If the grafting site is left above the surface, the plant will be depleted and eventually die, since the cultural part of the seedling is evergreen, and the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and this discrepancy between scion and rootstock will lead to a sad end if planted incorrectly.

Climbing rose seedlings with an open root system should be soaked in water for a day before planting. Then you need to remove the leaves from the shoots, cut off the immature and broken shoots with secateurs, powdering the cuts with crushed charcoal, shorten both the roots and the ground part to 30 cm, remove the buds located below the grafting site from the grafted seedlings so that rose hips do not develop from them. After that, the seedlings are disinfected by immersing in a three percent solution of copper sulphate.

Planting pits for climbing roses are dug 50x50 in size, keeping a distance of at least a meter between them. The top, fertile layer of soil removed from each pit is mixed with half a bucket of manure and part of this mixture is poured into the pits, then the holes are well spilled with water. This should be done a day or two before planting. On the day of planting, prepare a mixture for pre-planting treatment of rose roots. To do this, dissolve three tablets of phosphorobacterin and one tablet of heteroauxin in half a liter of water and pour this solution into nine and a half liters of clay mash. Dip the roots of the seedling into the mash before lowering them into the hole. Pour a mound of a mixture of earth and manure into the bottom of the pit, place a seedling on it, the roots of which are treated with a talker, carefully straighten the roots, cover them with the same mixture of soil and manure and carefully tamp the surface. And remember: the place of grafting a rose grafted onto a wild rose should be at a depth of about ten centimeters underground, and the root collar of a rooted rose should be at least five centimeters. After planting, the rose is watered abundantly, and when the water is absorbed, trunk circle add earth and spud the seedling to a height of at least 20 cm.

Planting a climbing rose in spring

Climbing roses planted in spring are two weeks behind in development compared to roses planted in autumn and require more attention. Before planting, the shoots of seedlings are shortened to 15-20 cm, and the roots - up to 30 cm. After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, highly spudded and covered with a film to create greenhouse conditions that contribute to faster survival of seedlings. The film must be lifted daily for several minutes to ventilate the seedlings. It is advisable to gradually increase the ventilation time, since at the same time the seedlings are hardened. When the threat of return frosts has passed, the film is removed, and the site is mulched. If you planted roses after frost in dry, warm weather, mulch the tree trunks with peat or any other suitable material after planting.

Caring for climbing roses in the garden

How to care for a climbing rose

Caring for climbing roses consists in regular watering of the plant, fertilizing, pruning, and fighting possible diseases or pests and in preparation for winter. Due to the nature of the structure, climbing roses need support. Climbing roses are quite drought-resistant, and they do not need a lot of water - they are moistened once a week or a decade according to the principle “less is better, but more often”, that is, 1-2 buckets of water are spent on each bush. To prevent water from spreading, make a low earthen rampart around the trunk circle. Two or three days after watering, in order to retain moisture in the soil and provide air access to the roots, loosen the soil around the bush to a depth of 5-6 cm. soil you will need much less often.

Young bushes do not feed until August, as contained in the soil nutrients not yet used up, closer to autumn, a solution of potassium salts is added to the soil to prepare the roses for wintering. It is best to use infusion for these purposes. wood ash. When feeding bushes of the second year of life, organic fertilizers alternate with mineral ones, and from the third year they switch exclusively to organic top dressing, which can be used as a solution of one liter of manure and a glass of wood ash in a bucket of water. Manure can be replaced with any other organic fertilizer. During the growing season, it is necessary to make at least five dressings. Do not apply fertilizer during flowering.

Support for climbing roses

The variety of supports for climbing roses is amazing: you can use an old dry tree, a lattice or an arch made of metal, wood or polymers, as well as metal rods curved in an arc as a support. However, no other plant will decorate a featureless wall or an unattractive building like climbing roses planted no closer than half a meter from the wall. Place a lattice or vertical guides on the wall, to which you will tie growing and flowering shoots, and an unremarkable structure will be transformed. However, you should be aware that on horizontally arranged lashes, flowers appear along their entire length, and on vertically fixed ones, only in their upper part.

Plastic twine is used as a fastening material, and in no case do they resort to using wire, coming up with all sorts of tricks, for example, wrapping the wire with paper or cloth. The stems are firmly attached to the support, nevertheless trying to ensure that the twine does not injure the stem. Inspect the supports regularly, because under the weight of the branches or from the wind they sometimes break, and this can lead to severe damage to the plant. It is necessary to dig in the supporting structure no closer than 30-50 cm from the bush.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult plant is usually transplanted only for the sake of saving it, if time has shown that the place for the rose has been chosen unsuccessfully. Climbing roses are transplanted in autumn - in September or early October, no later than so that the plant has time to take root in a new place before winter. Sometimes transplantation is carried out in the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys. Before transplanting, the roses are removed from the support, all young shoots are kept from the ramblers, but their tops are pinched at the end of August to speed up the lignification of the shoots, and shoots older than two years are removed. In climbers and climbings, all long shoots are shortened by half. Then the bushes are carefully dug in a circle, stepping back from the center at a distance equal to two bayonets of a shovel. You need to dig deep, trying to keep the entire root system intact. After digging up the plant, shake off the ground from its roots, cut off the ragged and shaggy ends of the roots with a secateurs and transplant the plant into a pre-prepared hole, straightening the roots when planting so that they do not bend. After filling the hole with potting soil, tamp the surface down and water generously. After a few days, when the soil settles, add more earth mix to level the surface of the area, and do not forget to plant the plant high.

Pests and diseases of climbing roses

From insects, climbing roses are bothered by aphids and spider mites. If the aphid infestation of the rose is not total, try to deal with pests with folk remedies without resorting to chemical preparations. You can remove the aphids mechanically: hold the bud, leaf or stem with your gloved hands and remove the aphids. This method is good if the aphid has just appeared, but if it has already settled down on your rose and has begun to breed, grate the soap, fill it with water, let the solution brew and, when the soap has dissolved, strain the solution and spray roses with it. If this measure fails, buy an aphid insecticide labeled "for roses and vines" at the store and treat the rose with it, choosing a quiet, calm evening for this. As for spider mites, they appear on plants only during the dry, hot period, if you chronically forget to water them. Ticks settle on the underside of the leaves, feed on their juice, entangling the leaves with cobwebs. The leaves of the affected plant acquire a silver tint. In the fight against spider mites, such folk remedies as infusions of yarrow, wormwood, tobacco or shag have proven themselves well, after treatment with which 80 to 100% of insects die on the third day. An infusion of wormwood is made like this: half a kilogram of fresh wormwood is placed in a wooden bowl, poured with ten liters cold water and leave for two weeks for fermentation, then filter the sourdough, dilute with water in a ratio of 1:10 and treat the rose and the soil around it with the composition. If the situation requires urgent measures, treatment of the plant with Fitoverm will help, which, if necessary, can be repeated after two weeks. The method of application and dosage are indicated in the instructions for use of the drug.

Roses also have other pests - rose sawfly, cicada, leafworm, thrips, but if you follow the conditions of the plant's agricultural technology, they will not become a problem for you. As a preventive measure, you can plant marigolds around the rose - this neighborhood will save the rose from many troubles. In addition, develop the habit of spring and autumn preventive spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid.

Of the diseases for roses, the most dangerous are coniothyrium, bacterial cancer, powdery mildew, gray rot and black spot.

bacterial cancer it manifests itself as tuberculous soft growths of various sizes, hardening and darkening with decomposition over time. The rose dries up and dies. There is no cure for bacterial cancer. Carefully inspect the planting material before buying, and before planting, disinfect the roots of the seedlings for two to three minutes in a three percent solution of copper sulphate. If you find signs of a disease on an adult bush, immediately remove the suspicious parts of the plant and treat the wounds with a solution of copper sulphate of the same consistency.

Coniothyrium – fungal disease, the so-called cancer or bark burn. It is found in the spring, when the shelter is removed from the roses: red-brown spots appear on the bark, gradually turning black and turning into rings around the shoot. Such shoots should be cut off immediately, capturing part of the healthy tissue, and burned to avoid infecting other plants. To avoid the disease, nitrogen should be stopped before wintering, replacing it with potash fertilizers, which strengthen plant tissues. In addition, during thaws, you need to air the roses under cover.

powdery mildew looks like a whitish coating on the ground parts of the plant, eventually acquiring a brown tint. Contributes to the appearance of the disease high humidity and sudden temperature fluctuations, excess nitrogen in the soil and improper watering. All affected parts of the plant are cut out and burned, after which the rose is treated with a three percent solution of iron or a two percent solution of copper sulphate.

black spot manifested by the appearance on the leaves of dark red-brown spots in a yellow rim, which merge with the development of the disease, causing premature leaf fall. Can prevent disease autumn dressing roses potassium and phosphorus fertilizers under the root, as well as a three-stage treatment of the bush and the land around it with a three percent solution of Bordeaux mixture or iron sulfate at weekly intervals.

Gray rot destroys stems, shoots, buds and leaves of climbing roses, sharply reduces their decorative effect, reducing the intensity of flowering. If the disease has taken effect, the plant will have to be dug up and destroyed, but if you find it at the very beginning, you can destroy the fungal infection by treating the bush with a solution of 100 g of Bordeaux liquid in a bucket of water. If it is not possible to defeat the disease at once, the treatment can be repeated three more times at weekly intervals.

Sometimes, with absolute and obvious health, a climbing rose does not bloom, and you study rose diseases and their symptoms with bewilderment, but you cannot understand what is the reason. Sometimes the fact is that you bought an unsuccessful variety - weakly flowering, and besides, the location or composition of the soil was not what the rose required. Or maybe the fact is that last year's shoots did not survive the winter well. Analyze all the information about climbing roses, and you will definitely find the reason.

Pruning climbing roses

When to prune climbing roses

Pruning climbing roses is necessary to form a crown, stimulate abundant flowering throughout the height of the bush and to maintain the decorativeness of a plant that adorns a particular object. Proper pruning can provide practically continuous flowering roses throughout the growing season. Special attention should be given to vegetative shoots, since the flowering of the bush mainly occurs on the last year's shoots. Pruning is carried out in spring and autumn. At the beginning of the growing season, dead shoots and frostbite are removed from climbing roses of any group, and the ends of the shoots are cut off to a strong outer bud. Subsequent pruning depends on how many times your rose blooms during the growing season - once or more.

How to prune climbing roses

Roses that bloom once a season form flowers on the last year's shoots. Instead of faded (basal) shoots, from three to ten recovery shoots are formed, which will bloom next year, so the basal shoots after flowering must be cut at the root, and it is better to do this in the fall, when preparing the plant for winter. In re-blooming roses, flowering branches of different orders are formed on the main shoots for three years - from two to five. The flowering of these shoots weakens by the fifth year, so the main shoots in early spring should be cut to the base after the fourth year of life. Repeat-flowering bushes should have one to three annual recovery shoots and three to seven main flowering shoots. However, most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, from which only tops with underdeveloped buds are removed in spring.

Particular attention should be paid to young grafted roses planted in the current or last year: until the cultivated graft acquires its own root system, the roots of the wild rose rootstock will produce abundant shoots that must be removed immediately. In a year or two, when the wild rose root dies, the shoots will already give the roots of the scion.

Reproduction of climbing roses

How to propagate climbing roses

Climbing roses are propagated by seeds, as well as layering, cuttings and grafting. The easiest way to propagate a rose is by layering, and propagation by cuttings gives good results. Concerning seed propagation, then it is better to buy seed for this purpose in a store, since the seeds collected from roses growing in the garden do not retain the varietal characteristics of the parent plant, so it is not known what kind of rose will grow from them. However, for the sake of the experiment, it is worth trying: after all, what are you risking?

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Buy from a store or collect the seeds of roses growing in your garden, put them in a sieve and dip them in a bowl of hydrogen peroxide for half an hour - this measure helps to disinfect the seeds and prevents mold during subsequent stratification seed. Then spread the seeds on moistened with hydrogen peroxide cotton pads and cover with the same peroxide-soaked discs on top, place these “sandwiches” in individual plastic bags, write the date and name of the variety on them, put them in a container and put them in the vegetable section of the refrigerator. From time to time check the condition of the seeds, and if you notice mold, soak them again in peroxide, change the disks to new ones soaked in the same composition, and put them in the refrigerator again. After one and a half to two months, transfer the germinated seeds to individual peat tablets or pots, mulching the surface with a thin layer of perlite to avoid black leg infection. Seedlings will need ten hours of daylight and watering as the soil dries. With the normal development of seedlings, the first buds will appear within two months after planting the seeds in pots, and after another month and a half, the first flowers will open. Continue caring for seedlings, feed them with a weak solution of complex fertilizer, and plant them in spring in open ground and take care of it like an adult plant.

Long branching shoots of climbing roses are great for decorating arbors, pergolas, fences and arches in the garden. For the rose to please with rapid growth, abundant and long flowering you need to choose and plant it correctly.

How to choose a climbing rose

When choosing climbing roses for your garden, it is important not only to decide on the place of future planting, but also to find suitable variety. Roses differ in many ways:

• Bush size;
• The shape, size and color of flowers;
• duration of flowering;
• winter hardiness;
• Disease resistance.

Many gardeners consider winter hardiness and disease resistance to be the main criteria for choosing rose varieties. Large bushes of climbing roses with 3-4 meter spiky shoots are very difficult to securely cover for the winter. Where winters are harsh and little snow, the choice is limited to only those varieties that are guaranteed to survive the frost. Global cropping will not save in this case - beauty and abundant flowering climbing rose directly depends on how its long shoots overwintered.

Disease resistance is also important criterion rose selection. Chemical treatment of a large plant is not an easy task. And regular spraying with fungicides and insecticides of a plant braiding a gazebo or veranda can adversely affect the health of people resting in such a place.

As for the shape and color of the flower, the choice here is so large that it is not difficult to find climbing rose seedlings for the most fastidious taste.

The flowering periods of most modern varieties are very long, many of them bloom from early summer until frost. For some, the flower lasts a long time, flowering comes in waves. In others, the petals fall off quickly, but new buds open all the time. Vintage varieties of roses bloom only once, in May or June, they are selected and combined taking into account specific flowering periods.

What support is needed for a climbing rose?

As a support for climbing roses, an arch, an arbor or a building wall is traditionally used. You can install a special lattice or column. What should be considered when choosing a support?

First, you need to consider the length of the shoots. There are climbing roses that can cover the wall of a building up to the 3rd floor. True, such beauty can only be seen in countries with a warm and mild climate. Most of the varieties known to us have maximum length shoots about 2-3.5 meters.

Secondly, the support must support the weight of the plant itself and be resistant to strong wind gusts.

Thirdly, the type of support depends on the thickness and flexibility of the shoots. There are varieties of climbing roses with long, but thin and flexible shoots that are easy to shape. They can be easily bent and directed as required, braiding a gazebo, lattice or fence. In many popular varieties of climbing roses, the main shoots are thick and powerful, about 1.5 cm in diameter. At first, they grow vertically, and then bend in an arc under the weight of leaves and flowers. It is almost impossible to lay such shoots on the ground for wintering, it is most convenient to form a bush in the form of an arch or along a vertical wall, and for a lattice or gazebo, you need to gradually bend the branches as they grow.

The technology of planting a climbing rose is almost no different from planting any rose. There are only two things to consider:

• The future rather big size of the bush and the installation of the support.
• A large, fast-growing rose needs a sufficient amount of nutritious soil.

Location selection

One of the main factors successful cultivation climbing rose is right choice landing sites. The bush should receive enough light and air, taking into account its maximum size. You may also need a place to build a shelter for the winter.

Roses do not like to grow in swampy soil and dry sand. If the groundwater is high or there is often stagnant rainwater, then you need to fill a hill or form a slope.

You should not plant a rose where rose bushes have grown for many years before.

Landing time

Climbing rose seedlings are planted in autumn or spring. For spring planting, it is important that the ground is already completely thawed. In autumn, it is advisable to plant about a month before the soil freezes.

How to plant

The approximate depth of the landing pit is 60-70 centimeters. In fertile and fairly loose garden soil, a hole can be made approximately the size of the root system. On sandy infertile soils, they dig a hole more and fill it with humus, compost, and add mineral fertilizers.

In the process of sprinkling the rhizomes, make sure that the root neck is approximately at the level of the soil. In fact, it needs to be deepened about 10 centimeters below the surface, but after planting, the earth in the pit always settles, the bush will drop about 6-10 cm, depending on the composition and looseness of the soil. The landing site is mulched with deciduous humus or peat.

The support is installed immediately upon planting, until the roots have grown and there is no risk of damage.

Climbing rose in the interior of the garden

garden rose considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents argue that a climbing rose requires increased attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. Pro proper care behind a climbing rose, we will talk about the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.

Terms of planting roses in Russia

Climbing roses are planted in the Moscow region and central Russia in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds open. According to observations, in climbing roses planted in spring, there is a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.

Planting a climbing rose in summer is recommended for own-rooted (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) plants, in containers with a closed root system. It is they who are advised to acquire novice gardeners, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding for care, especially for shelter for the winter.

Climbing roses are planted in the south in autumn, until mid-October. After 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root processes. In winter, the young rhizome hardens, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Site selection and site preparation

The perfect place for planting a climbing rose - a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope for rain and melt water to drain or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and the lack of sun and ventilation - to the fungus.

For the same reason, the depth groundwater on the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial elevation. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from deepening and they begin to grow horizontally. Climbing rose, which is planted using this technology, requires additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted during planting, they are mulched with tree bark or sawdust.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses involves the presence of a room on the site for moving bushes to winter storage. For this purpose, a dry heated basement or garage, an insulated veranda or terrace are suitable.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

A place where roses have already grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. In the absence of an alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils, with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5, are most suitable for climbing roses.

V clay soil make coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leafy soil (6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, soddy soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg of wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk are also added to the earth mixture, depending on the pH of the soil.

climbing rose - perennial with powerful roots, which should be located freely. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

Upper layer the soil is set aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small gravel, a prepared earthen mixture is laid out on top of a height of 40 cm, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Seedlings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planted in spring, the shoot of a rose is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to a living white tissue by 25 cm and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.

The prepared plant is dipped into a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure for an hour. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Buton or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are preliminarily diluted in 0.5 of water.

The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can put down its own roots. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and when falling asleep with earth, air voids do not form. Caring for climbing roses in summer consists in carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, leaving no stumps, unnecessary cuts and damage.

After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. For watering own-rooted climbing roses, a mixture is used, dissolving one tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is spudded and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, a support is placed for further garter. Curly roses planted in spring are covered with foil for 2 weeks better recovery and adaptation of roots.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require top dressing. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed, and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Climbing rose landing and care video

Climbing rose care after flowering

To give the bush desired shape from the second year after planting in the ground, they start pruning. Climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of shoots, is always cut to general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

In place of the old, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Caring for remontant varieties of roses

roses remontant varieties thin out in early spring and after flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before winter. With a later procedure, they may die.

Photo and detailed description climbing varieties you will find roses in our material.

Shelter for the winter and care for roses in spring

Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: untied and bent to the ground or fixed on a support.

Unsupported shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle, it is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

The top is wrapped with fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not let water through. The soil under the plant is sprinkled with dry earth and mulched with fallen leaves.

Shelter on a support

The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofiber or burlap and secured with twine.

Removal of winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely - after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is examined for diseases and damage, if necessary, cutting off the affected area.

Areas with mold treated 15% blue vitriol, and the stems are tied horizontally to the support for less formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just at the top.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, require a mandatory garter:

• For tying, choose plastic, silicone twine, and not wire wrapped in paper. It eventually decays from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant;
• The strapping should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
• Supports should be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.

Watch out for supports and garter

It is important to remember that poor-quality support or bad twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.

Outcome

Growing an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your area is not so difficult, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to the rules of planting and appropriate care, a climbing plant will delight with its chic buds for many years.

If you like climbing roses, planting and caring for these truly beautiful flowers is no more difficult than for a bush rose, but decorative effect much higher. They are perfect for vertical gardening. They can braid as small garden structures, and columns, walls of buildings, fences, arbors. And surprisingly, climbing roses are combined with almost all the flowers and plants that grow in the garden.

Before you start growing any plant, you need to find out what it is, find out its features and how to properly care for it.

By the way. Climbing roses are so many-sided and diverse that they have not been combined into a common view. Climbing can be both varieties of roses and plants from the rosehip family.

This category includes all climbing roses that have flexible shoots from two to twelve meters or more in length. They grow in an arc along a vertical surface, or spread along a horizontal one.

All representatives of roses that have long trailing stems are assigned to different groups in the international standard. The classification is mobile and is in the stage of systematization, since new varieties and hybrids are constantly being developed through complex multi-stage crosses.

Advice. Although climbing roses are called climbing roses, to the group climbing plants according to botanical standards, they do not apply, since they do not have antennae and other attachment mechanisms. They all need to be tied to a support.

Table 1. Classification of climbing roses by groups.

Group	Detailed description
Rambler	The color of the stems is rich green up to 12 meters. Plants have many thorns. The leaves are small, glossy. The color shades are bright and varied, but the roses themselves are rarely larger than four centimeters in diameter. But they can be not only simple, but also semi-double and terry. The aroma of pink flowers is weak, they are valued for their high decorativeness and frost resistance - under light cover, the plants will survive even the most severe winter.
climber	Most often they are called climbers. The stems are not very long - they reach no more than four meters, but are much more powerful and less flexible than those of ramblers. Large flowers, which can be from four to eight centimeters in diameter, in small inflorescences. The frost resistance of the climbers is quite high, they successfully hibernate under cover. The group is also distinguished common feature– high resistance to powdery mildew.
climbing	The main feature is large ten-centimeter flowers, which can be combined into inflorescences or grow singly along five-meter shoots. Winter hardiness can be considered high, but only in newly bred varieties. Historically, these plants were grown in the southern regions, because they did not always tolerate frost well.
Banks	Banks rose group is evergreen. The stems can grow up to 12 meters, but the rose is most often grown by the bush. The leaves are small, glossy. The flowers are medium in size, lush, can have both mono color and a combination of several colors. The plant blooms once a season, lasting about a month, in the first month of summer.
Kordesa	Plants that belong to the cordesa group of roses are distinguished by a small length of lashes - only up to three meters. The color scheme is rich and varied. The flowers are large - an average of about six centimeters. Hybrid varieties of roses belonging to the Cordes group are winter hardy and resistant to many rose diseases.
Multiflora	Native to East Asia. Includes hybrids derived from wild Asian varieties. The flowers are abundant, up to four centimeters, of various colors. The difference from other climbing roses is a very powerful root system that allows roses to grow even on rocks. One of the few groups whose flowers have absolutely no smell.
Vishurana	It is afraid of low temperatures and is practically not grown in cold conditions. Plants of this group cannot be grown in a house or even a greenhouse, since their lashes can reach 15 meters. There are many flowers, but they are not large, but they are collected in lush voluminous inflorescences, and there are the most unthinkable colors.
Lambert	There are about a hundred Lambert roses, and they are quite popular in the world, as they are resistant to diseases and have good varietal immunity. They usually grow as a bush, the lashes of which are about 2.5-3 meters. Blooms gradually, intermittently, but profusely. The diameter of the flower is about five centimeters.

Three popular types

Of all the groups available, the most popular are ramblers, climbers and climbings.

The former are loved because the flowering of rambler roses is plentiful, a record number of flowers is responsible for this - there can be up to a hundred of them in an inflorescence.

Inflorescences are formed on last year's shoots, placed along the entire length of the winding stem, blooming gradually, so the total flowering period for ramblers is about one and a half months, usually in the first half of summer, once.

Climbers bloom profusely and almost always, with good conditions and care, twice a year. The first flowering occurs at the beginning of summer and lasts about three weeks. The second after summer pruning, comes in a month and a half.

In climbings, the formation of flowers occurs on all shoots, both last year's and new ones, therefore flowering is plentiful and in almost all varieties it is repeated twice per season.

Table 2. Varieties of climbing roses by groups.

Group	Varieties
Rambler	American Pillar, Red Parfum, Bobbie James, Brewood Belle, Goldfinch.
climber	Rosarium Uetersen, Dortmund, Ilse Krohn Superrior.
climbing	Breath of Life, Santana, Compassion, Sally Holmes, Gloriya Day.
Banks	Lutea, Lady Banks, Rosa Banksiae.
Kordesa	Laguna, Alchymist, Aloha, Flamentanz.
Multiflora	Ghislaine de Feligonde, Geschwindt.
Vishurana	Coronation, Glen Dale.
Lambert	Frau Karl Druschki, Schverin, Munhen.

How to plant a climbing rose

Once the desired variety is determined, it is time to buy and plant, but first you need to prepare the soil and select optimal time. You can read more about preparing land for seedlings.

Roses are not the most whimsical of flowers, but the character of these beauties is rather capricious, and that of climbing varieties is doubly capricious.

Important! Planting and caring for climbing roses must be carried out according to certain rules, only in this case can high viability be guaranteed, combined with fully developed decorative qualities.

Step 1 - choose a place

For a climbing rose, a place on the site is not as easy to find as for a bush rose. Like all members of the family, she loves the sun, but only in the morning. There must be a lot of sun so that the morning dew dries on the leaves, and the leaves are saturated with life-giving light. After that, at noon, the climbing rose bush should be shaded. The scorching daytime sun will burn the leaves and flowers, they will dry out, and the plant will lose its decorative effect.

Advice. The rose will also need protection from the wind, especially if it blows from the north and northeast. It is because of the winds and constant drafts that it is not recommended to plant climbing roses at the corners of buildings.

In size for a climbing rose, a square is allocated from half a meter to a meter, depending on which variety the plant belongs to.

Step 2 - Timing

For a temperate climate, two planting times are possible - spring, from the middle to the end. Autumn - from late September to mid-autumn.

It is better to give preference to autumn planting. Rooting should take place before frost, the young seedling takes cover for the winter, and in the spring, immediately after waking up, starts active growth.

Step 3 - soil preparation

Climbing roses will not grow in non-drained soil. Also does not like the plant high ground water, sandy and clay soils.

The best option is loam. If it is not there, the existing soil will have to be corrected by adding sand to the clay or vice versa until desired result. The correction area is two cubic meters, since the roots of a climbing rose can go deep and to the sides to just such a distance.

Important! Be sure to add humus or humus to the pit before planting, no later than four weeks before planting, at least 10 kg per plant. It is also good to add bone meal.

Step 4 - choosing a seedling

The fact that it is better to buy roses in a nursery, and not from hands, is known to everyone - this is the only way to guarantee varietal affiliation. But besides this, you still need to know how to choose a seedling in the nursery.

Varieties of climbing rose seedlings are of two types - own-rooted and grafted. It cannot be said that some of them are better and others are worse. It’s just that caring for a rooted specimen will be somewhat different from caring for a plant grafted onto a wild rose rootstock.

By the way. Already when planting, the technologies differ - the scion is planted deeper than the own-rooted seedling, so that the grafting site is ten centimeters deep into the soil.

Two more types of seedlings can be offered by nurseries - with open and with closed system roots. It is better to purchase a plant with protected roots, especially if the issue with the place or time of planting has not yet been resolved. A rose with open roots should be planted on the second day after acquiring a seedling, immersing it for a day with roots in a container of water, into which root can be added.

Disembarkation process

After everything is prepared, you can begin the disembarkation process.

1. Yellowed and dried leaves are removed from the seedling, and the aerial part is cut so that after deepening, no more than 45 centimeters of the trunk remain on the surface.
2. The root system is cut to 30 centimeters. Slices are sprinkled with charcoal, cinnamon, any antiseptic.
3. In grafted plants, all buds below the place of grafting are removed (plucked out) in order to exclude the appearance of wild growth of wild rose rootstock.
4. Half a bucket of water is poured into a prepared pit with a mound-shaped bottom.
5. The seedling is placed on a mound with all roots straightened, and the pit is covered with a mixture of soil and manure.
6. The surface is compacted, a near-trunk circle is formed. It should be well watered and mulched with peat.

By the way. spring planting differs in that after planting, the plant must be covered with a film, creating the conditions of a mini-greenhouse for more successful rooting.

How to care for a climbing rose

Having planted a climbing rose, you will have to go through all the stages of care, skipping at least one can cause the death of the plant.

1. Watering.
2. Top dressing.
3. Loosening.
4. Pruning.
5. Pest control.
6. Shelter for the winter.

But first of all, even before landing or immediately after it, care must be taken to create a support for a climbing rose.

Support - lattice

Support - fence and gate

Types of supports

As already noted, the plant has no antennae, cannot cling to anything, is neither climbing nor climbing.

There are many different supports for all groups of climbing roses. They can be metal, plastic, wooden structures various modifications. These are pergolas and arches, arcs and lattices, fences, arbors, as well as walls and entrance groups, which can be perfectly decorated with a climbing rose.

Advice. If you plant a rose against a wall, you must step back from it at least half a meter. Apply guides to the wall surface or attach a grate.

If the support is an autonomous structure not attached to the wall, it is dug in immediately after planting in the hole at a distance of 35-50 cm from the base of the bush.

On the supports, the stems are fixed with twine, garden non-metallic wire, and plastic fasteners.

Description of care steps

Watering

Roses don't need frequent watering, but it must be deep, since the roots lie two meters deep. A minimum of two buckets of water should be poured into each hole weekly. Better to give tap water stand for two days before watering. Climbing roses should be watered either in the morning or in the evening.

top dressing

If the seedlings are planted in the spring, and enough humus has been added to the pit, the plants are not fed until the end of the summer.

In early autumn, potassium-containing fertilizers are applied to successfully prepare for wintering.

roses autumn planting do not fertilize until spring. In the spring, minerals begin to be introduced, alternating with organic matter, every one and a half months throughout the growing season. Stop fertilizing in early October.

loosening

Loosening the soil around the stem of a climbing rose is carried out two to three days after each watering. It is necessary to loosen to a depth of 12 centimeters. If the hole is mulched with peat, from time to time the mulch layer is updated and sprinkled.

pruning

It is carried out in spring or autumn, as well as at the beginning of intensive growth. Cut off dried dead parts of the stem, branches, frostbitten areas in winter.

If the rose blooms once, it is worth remembering that the flowers on it are formed only on the shoots of the second year, therefore, immediately after flowering, the branches are removed at the root.

On plants that bloom twice, pruning is carried out in preparation for wintering.

Treatment

Roses have a lot of pests, the main of which can be considered aphids and spider mite. Most often they are noticed already when it is necessary to urgently use insecticides. You should strictly follow the instructions for their use.

Plant diseases are also numerous - cancer, spotting, rot - that's far from complete list something that can kill a climbing rose. The parts of the stem and leaves affected by the disease are removed, everything is treated with chemicals. If a large part of the plant is damaged, it will have to be dug up with the roots and burned.