Climbing roses: description of varieties, pruning and garter. Step-by-step instructions for making supports for climbing roses and garter plants to them

Supports for climbing roses are decorative ornaments garden. They not only decorate any land plot, but also save space, giving the garden a special atmosphere. The materials and shapes of the supports are very diverse.

Why is it necessary?

Climbing roses grow very quickly, closing large areas land, the facade of the house or the place where they were planted.

With the help of supports, you can not only create a beautiful frame for a window, garden entrance or bench, but also save the plant from damage.

Design requirements

Reliability and stability. The support must be well dug into the ground and secured with metal stakes. The plastic support may not withstand the weight of the flowers. Therefore, it is better if it is also made of metal.
decorative. The support must harmoniously fit into the landscape of the site.
Color matching. A large stand will look strange in combination with small flowers. And vice versa.
frugality. In addition to store options, there are ways to make a support with your own hands.
Environmental friendliness. This also applies to the safety of the flowers themselves.
Simplicity in operation.

Next, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with step-by-step instructions for making do-it-yourself supports - tapestries, wooden poles, arches and pergolas, towers, wigwams, a simple lattice and other types, as well as see their photos.

Step-by-step instructions: how to make a trellis with your own hands?

Buy a chain-link with large cells.
As an option: you can stretch the net between any two supports at a distance of about a meter from each other with a rope.
Determine a location for the structure. Roses are photophilous, and therefore the support should be sanctified by the sun, while not interfering with free movement in the garden, not blocking other flowers or windows of the house.
After digging a hole, dig in two-meter pillars, 15-20 cm in diameter, creating a square. They can be either metal or wood.
Color the structure.
Pull the mesh over the posts, securing it with staples and 100-150 mm nails.
Instead of a mesh, you can use thin wooden stakes with a diameter of 5 cm or more, stuffed with nails on a frame of bars 25 cm in diameter.

Do not put such a stand close to the wall so as not to disturb the air circulation around the plant.

We offer you to watch a video instruction for making trellis:

Wooden pole structure

Supports made of wooden poles, especially if they are carved, will be an exquisite and unique attribute. garden plot.

The finished two-meter pole must be securely dug into the ground. It does not need to be concreted.
When working, you will need a shovel, saw, emery, a hammer and 100 mm nails.
impregnate the pillars special composition from moisture with a brush.
Apply waterproof paint.
Stuff transverse crossbars with a diameter of 5 cm onto the pillars. Cells from the crossbars should turn out to be about 50 cm.

You can make a support in the form of a cone, the legs of which are spaced at a distance of half a meter from each other, and the top tapers into a cone. Such a stand will appeal not only to roses, but also to other climbing plants.

Making arches and pergolas

Pergola - lattice on pillars in the form of a roof. Can serve as a gazebo.

Dig in metal or wooden poles, digging a hole, a depth of half a meter. Length, height and width are selected according to the type of plants.
For large roses, two-meter poles 15-20 cm in diameter are suitable. For small species, half-meter columns are sufficient.
Above the pillars, build a metal lattice of thin rods with a diameter of 1-2 cm to make large squares of 30 cm. This will allow the plant to grow unhindered. The rods are welded together and mounted on top of the poles and securely fastened with 150 mm nails or 75 mm self-tapping screws.

Arches are different curved shapes . They are intended for large varieties of climbing roses, which, as they grow, can reach the top. Arches are fine jewelry inputs and garden paths. They are wrought iron and wood. They are also dug into the ground and plants are planted at a distance of half a meter from the structure.

We offer you to watch a video instruction for making an arch:

Step by step instructions: how to build a tower?

Using a shovel, dig metal bars 50 cm high into the ground to a depth of half a meter so that the upper ends are connected together, and the lower ends are widely spaced in different sides at a distance of 60 cm from each other. It looks like " eiffel tower". Such towers look especially beautiful, having an openwork structure.
Plant roses without restricting them in space at a distance of 40 cm from the dug-in crossbars.
As you grow, tie the stems in the right direction and gradually direct them to the tower until they catch on.

Wigwam do it yourself

This design is ideal for a garden plot, which is decorated in an Indian style.

Weave a cone from willow or birch bark. As a rule, these are thin, but strong branches. They are connected together, forming a cavity inside and secured with a rope or glue.
The ideal cone height is 80-100 cm.
The top of the cone should be with a sharp crown. The stems of roses will reach up to it, decorating the garden and braiding the cone in a circle.

How to make a simple lattice?

The easiest thing to do as a support for climbing roses is a trellis. It can be either metal or wood.

Make horizontal and vertical crossbars with a diameter of 5-6 cm using a saw, emery and nails or self-tapping screws.
Connect them together in the form of a lattice with 25 cm holes.
Wooden crossbars are cut out and stacked on top of each other in the form of a lattice, fixed with 70 mm self-tapping screws or nails. Metal are connected by welding.
Place the grate on two-meter poles dug at a distance of half a meter from each other or any other structures that are convenient to use. Fasten with screws.

Other types

Supports for roses are different:

Can be built wooden structure from any bars 40-60 cm high, connecting them together with 70 mm self-tapping screws, shaped like a tower, inside of which there will be a small stand for a container, from which a rose will grow.
You can make a metal column from rods with a diameter of 5 cm from galvanized steel, which will last for many years. Such rods are welded together, forming a single whole.
You can put a steel obelisk 80 cm high from durable thin (up to 3 cm) pipes, which also have welding joints.
You can make thin metal flip arcs on both sides of the tracks, digging them into the ground 70 cm, creating a corridor of beautiful flowers. They should be long enough so that a person can easily pass under them. The length also depends on the width of the track over which they will be installed. As a rule, up to 5 meters.

How can you decorate?

Supports for climbing roses, as a rule, do not need additional decorations, because they will be wrapped around already beautiful stems with bright lights of flowers of various colors. But while the stems have not yet completely wrapped around the entire structure, I want it to also have aesthetic appearance. Carved wood patterns, forged curls painted with bright waterproof paint, or garden figures along the edges of the structure, sold in specialized stores.

How to tie a flower?

We offer you to watch a video on how to tie a rose correctly:

Care

Supports for climbing roses need care. Must be processed protective compounds protecting the structure from water. So that the supports do not become sources of infections for the plant, they need to be painted periodically. Steel poles can last up to several decades, while wooden poles will have to be completely changed in five years. At the same time, larch poles will last twice as long as birch poles.

We offer you to watch a video about various supports for climbing roses:

Climbing roses are not creepers, they do not have hooks and tendrils, like other climbing plants. Pink stems cannot independently wrap themselves around poles, trees or climb walls, they are given the desired direction by fixing on supports. The garter procedure solves the following tasks:

the formation of an attractive shape of the bush;
full flowering over the entire height of the shoots;
preventing thickening and creating a favorable microclimate inside the crown;
keeping foliage and stems healthy.

Ways to garter climbing roses

So that in the future a running rose bush does not cause unnecessary trouble, shoots begin to form from the moment of planting. The support is installed simultaneously with the planting of the seedling, so as not to damage the overgrown root system later. The stems are directed, trying to achieve the maximum decorative effect:

horizontally - on a lattice or trellis;
in a spiral - around a pillar, obelisk, other high support;
vertically - along the columns of arches, pergolas, tree trunks;
in the form of a fan - against a wall or fence.

Expert recommendation : “In the spring, climbing roses must be given time to lay flower buds on horizontally located shoots. Therefore, I am in no hurry to raise them to the supports and wait until the buds protrude on second-order shoots up to 3-5 cm. There was a case when I could not wait for these roses to grow young shoots from each bud, and tied them to the supports. As a result, they almost did not bloom, which once again confirmed the need for such a procedure. It should be noted that all roses prefer to lay flower buds on shoots located at an angle of 30 °, so their location on supports should be appropriate.

Elena Demyanchuk - florist-collector, author of the book "Roses without a flaw."

The direction of the branches horizontally or spirally increases the intensity of bud formation. The duration of flowering also increases.

With a vertical arrangement of a climbing rose, it is necessary to artificially stimulate branching, otherwise flowers will form only at the tops of the stems. In order for the bush to bloom from top to bottom, the top of the shoot is bent, pointing down. It is convenient to use an ordinary clothespin as a weight. The plant reacts to this technique by ejecting lateral peduncles, which are tied up as needed.

The rose bush, formed in the form of a fan, serves as a kind of screen, partition or elegant decoration of walls and fences.

Types of supports for climbing roses

Support for climbing roses must meet the following requirements:

Reliability. The frame must be strong and stable to withstand the weight of the lashes and any bad weather.

Decorative. The design must be aesthetic and in harmony with the design of the site.
compactness. The size of arches, tripods, trellises, obelisks should correspond to the length of the shoots so as not to look bulky and unnatural.
Profitability. A great way to save money is to use improvised materials and ready-made supports (exposition of facades, gazebos, awnings, etc.).

Tip #1 : Old trees do not need to be completely uprooted. You can saw off the top of the trunk, leaving part of the skeletal branches, and decorate everything with shoots of a blooming climbing rose. Having shown imagination, you can create interesting compositions with snags and stumps.

Varietal group of climbing roses	Peculiarities	Recommended type of support
Rambler	Long, plastic shoots, easily bending and even curling into a ring, reaching a length of 3-4 m; bloom on last year's shoots	Arches, pergolas, pillars, columns, obelisks, arbors, horizontal ceilings
climber	Spreading bushes with thick hard stems up to 2.5 m high; bloom on the shoots of both the current year and last year	Low flat surfaces: walls of houses, fences, trellises, walls of arbors

Tip #2 : Prolonged use of a support, especially a wooden one, can become a source of infection. In the spring, before tying up the whips, the supporting frame must be disinfected and painted. With each preventive spraying of the bush, the entire structure should also be treated.

Florist mistakes when tying roses

In an effort to create an extraordinary landscape composition using a climbing rose, experienced gardeners sometimes it is overlooked that the fixed shoots will inevitably have to be removed from the support for laying under the winter shelter. The more bizarre the supporting structure, the more complex the thorny shoots are intertwined, and the more difficult it is to unwind them. On a vertical support, pink lashes need to be curled in a spiral to make it easier to untie later. To unravel the shoots located crosswise, it will take a lot of time and effort.

A fine-mesh lattice or chain-link mesh, pierced through with flowering twigs, looks quite impressive as a double-sided trellis. But this option is acceptable only for non-covering roses, since it is almost impossible to detach the shoots from such a support. As an option, make the lattice removable so that it can be laid for the winter along with the rose, without unraveling the thickets of branches each time. Even better, use collapsible structures for gartering roses, which are attached to the base with locking screws. In autumn, they easily detach from the foundation and hide under cover with a rose, and in spring they return to their place.

It is not recommended to mount climbing rose shoots directly on the canvas of a metal fence or on a wall covered with a similar facing material(corrugated board, corrugated board, galvanized steel, etc.). In the heat, when the metal is very hot, the plant feels like in a hot frying pan. And at night, the iron cools quickly, creating a sharp temperature drop, which is also uncomfortable for a rose. If there is a need to place a rose bush in close proximity to metal fence, it is advisable to install a wooden support frame (trellis) at a distance of at least 30 cm from the canvas to maintain a favorable microclimate.

Answers to current questions of gardeners

Question number 1: What is the best garter material to use to fix a climbing rose to a support?

It is not recommended to tie roses with metal wire that injures delicate stems. Fabric flaps, hemp or linen twine are also not suitable for this purpose. natural materials, easily absorbing moisture, can cause a fungal disease. And from an aesthetic point of view, this is not the best way. Modern solution- reinforced plastic wire, Agrotex garter tape or special plastic holders for climbing plants.

Advantages of synthetic garters:

protection of stems from fracture;
long service life (up to 5 seasons);
neat look;
resistance to decay processes;
ease of use;
high strength.

Question number 2: What is preferable to build an arch so that the roses are comfortable?

Arches for attaching a climbing rose are constructed from a variety of materials:

Material	Advantages	Flaws
Tree	Cost-effectiveness, availability, ease of manufacture	Fragility, possible instability, need for additional processing and surface painting
Metal fittings	Strength and durability	The need for welding equipment, the need for anti-corrosion coating
A rock	Durability, solidity, solid appearance	Inappropriate in gardens with limited space
Plastic pipes and arcs	Mobility due to the presence of locking elements (the ability to easily assemble, disassemble and move around the site), use without additional painting	Instability to low temperatures, the need for storage in the shed

Materials can be combined if desired. For example, support pillars should be made of metal, brick or stone, and wooden slats should be used for transverse ceilings.

Climbing roses are different from other climbing plants. They are not able to wrap their stems around a support or attach themselves to it with antennae, like grapes, so their shoots must be tied to a support. Climbing roses must be formed from the very beginning, so that they immediately begin to grow in the required direction. Try to direct the shoots horizontally or horizontally and slightly down - with this arrangement of the main shoots, lateral stems will appear on them, growing upwards.

An excellent option that allows you to correctly form the growth of a plant such as a rose are trellises. If you do not tie up the shoots of the climbing rose, they will begin to creep along the ground. Some of the designers decide to use roses as a flowering ground cover planting steep slopes with them.

Thanks to correct pruning plants, such roses can grow beautifully throughout the summer. At the base, it is necessary to cut out all diseased and weak shoots. Shorten the weak side shoots roses. You also need to remove the top of the shoot with wilted flowers, cutting it off above the third or second leaf facing outward.

Proper pruning

Climbing roses come into maturity at about the age of two to three years, it is at this time that abundant flowering plants. In the first year after planting, it is necessary to cut off damaged shoots; if the shoot is long, it is not worth cutting it. In the second year, it is necessary to shorten the side shoots by two to four eyes. You need to cut off all dead and crossing shoots. In the third year, anti-aging pruning can be carried out.

Tying and direction of shoots

To do this, you will need: soft garter material, climbing rose, gloves and support (trellis). Dig a hole for planting at a distance of 50 cm from the installed trellis. The roots should be directed away from the trellis. All new shoots should be tied soft material to the trellis so that the plant can grow freely further.

When the shoots are quite long, take it carefully to the side and bend it down a little, after which you can tie it up. Flowers in the first year should be cut off as soon as they have faded, but try to cut as few shoots and leaves as possible.

In gardening stores you can find necessary materials for a garter. True, its cost is usually quite high. Instead, you can also use soft lace or other materials suitable for this purpose. In no case should shoots be tied with wire or other hard materials.

Some types of wild roses, like climbing roses, can be grown on trellises, however, such plants bloom only once a year. Like climbing roses, you can lift them up the trellis, and in order for them to grow better, it is recommended to prune them every year. Yes, without applying special efforts, you can get a beautiful design on your suburban area.

Long branches, strewn with luxurious roses, have always been admired by gardeners. For landscape design with vertical gardening, a climbing rose garden is a real find. They can be combined with a variety of architectural forms. The dream of any gardener about original transformations on the site can come true if he breeds climbing roses.

These flowers are the leader vertical gardening. With their help, many interesting ideas, including arrange all kinds of pyramids, arches, garlands, columns. Make a “living” wall along the gazebos, verandas, fences, balconies. And compositions from several varieties of such roses look quite unusual.

Climbing roses are mainly grown in regions where the climate is mild and warm. In places with a more severe climate, plants will have to be insulated for the winter.

All climbing roses are divided into three groups.

Curly or real climbing rose, having arched and fairly flexible stems. The length of such plants depends on the variety. They can be from one and a half to five meters. Their flowers are quite small, of various colors, double or semi-double. The thorns are thin and crooked, the shoots are green and very bright. Collected in inflorescences, the flowers of this group bloom very profusely for up to thirty days. Mostly at the beginning of summer. They have very small shiny, leathery leaves. Varieties of these climbing roses are quite winter-hardy and even under light cover they can overwinter.
This group was obtained as a result of crossings with tea, remontant and hybrid tea roses. New varieties are very interesting and popular. Their shoots reach a height of up to four meters. These climbing roses are often referred to as climbing roses. Their flowers are large, collected in inflorescences. They often re-bloom in a season. They have high winter hardiness and disease resistance.
A group resulting from mutations of spray roses with large flowers. Another name for them is "klaybing". They have strong growth, bright and large flowers. but they come to fruition later than the rest. Their flowers are from four to eleven centimeters, solitary. Unfortunately, such roses can grow only in countries and areas with a mild and warm climate.

Even though the climbing rose has long shoots, they are called "bushes". However, planting and caring for these plants is different from other types of roses. In order for the long lashes of the plant to look aesthetically pleasing, you need to know how to properly care for them.

Landing Features

To get a beautiful chic bush of climbing roses, you should start with a competent landing.

Plants love moderate light. In a place flooded with sun all day, the rose petals will burn out, and the stems will get burned. The lack of sun will slow down the ripening of new shoots. which should bloom next year. It is best to choose a place where the sun's rays will be in the morning. They will warm the rose, the dew will evaporate from them and the plants will not be afraid of such a disease as "powdery mildew".

Roses do not tolerate drafts. Therefore, it is better not to plant them, for example, on the corners of buildings.

Large areas for plants are optional. They will have enough land, an area of fifty by fifty centimeters.

A well climbing rose develops on permeable soils. This means that water (irrigation or rainwater) should not linger in the root zone. Because of this root system will begin to rot and the plant will die from lack of nutrition. If the site is too close to the surface of the earth are ground water, then roses should be planted on hills. If this is not possible, then you can dig a hole that will not reach groundwater and concrete its bottom. After all, fill up the hole fertile soil and plant a plant.

Climbing roses grow best in loam. They are waterproof and breathable, therefore, provide the root system with a fairly good nutrition.

If the site has sandy soil, then clay can be added to it, and clay soil should be mixed with sand. Wherein the soil should also be fertilized with humus or humus, as well as phosphate fertilizers.

Plants should be planted so that they do not shade each other. This is usually done in a checkerboard pattern. Such hedge will be decorative all summer, even when the roses have faded.

Bushes for planting should be chosen healthy, without visible damage. Remove crushed, broken and rotten parts of the roots. For disinfection, powder the sections with crushed charcoal. Then the wounds on the roots will not rot.

The soil for planting climbing roses is best prepared a few weeks in advance. Add humus, lime and peat to the wells. The hole for a new bush should be such that the roots freely fit there and the neck deepens by ten centimeters. This will protect her from the winter cold (with a normal shelter at such a depth, the temperature does not fall below minus two degrees). Even such a deepening of the neck contributes to the formation of additional roots.

The roots in the hole straighten out fertile land and fall asleep to her. There shouldn't be any voids. After the bush is planted, the ground around it is rammed with feet.

For better survival you can water the sprouts of climbing roses with heteroauxin or fosvorobacterin.

Before the bush is planted, its roots and shoots can be cut to a length of twenty to thirty centimeters. Experienced gardeners do this so that the root system of the climbing rose becomes powerful. The shoots should definitely be lubricated with garden pitch so that no infection creeps up to them.

Caring for the first years

If seedlings of climbing roses are planted in the spring, then they can create a greenhouse effect so that the damaged roots of roses recover and take root well. For this bushes cover plastic wrap under which a humid microclimate will be maintained. Only such a greenhouse should be ventilated daily for at least a few minutes. The plant needs access to fresh air. Gradually, the airings are increased in time, and after two weeks the film is completely removed.

Planted seedlings in the first year of life do not need to be fed, since they have enough of what was laid in the holes along with the ground.

To prepare the bushes for winter dormancy, they need to be fed with a solution of potassium salts in late summer or early autumn.

Care for adult bushes

The next year after planting, the climbing rose does not require much care. She needs rare, but plentiful watering and top dressing. Roses are watered once every eight or ten days. Fertilizers applied during planting are used for two years. But in the following years fertilizing roses will be necessary, especially organic fertilizers . It will be possible to feed roses and various special mineral fertilizers. During the growth period, about five fertilizing is required annually, alternating them.

Around the plant, the soil is mulched with straw, humus, grass, sawdust. Faded branches of roses pruned in order to stimulate their additional flowering. Do not forget to remove weeds around the roses. Weak branches are cut off.

After the snow melts, they must be removed and destroyed. plant remains. This is necessary so that there is no recurrence of the disease of the bush, if, perhaps, the rose was infected with some kind of disease in the past year.

Even before bud break, it is necessary to spray the plant from pests with pesticides. If no pests or diseases were observed last year, then for prevention, you can spray with modern special preparations.

After the soil has completely dried out, it is loosened or dug up with pitchforks to a depth of twenty-five centimeters.

If observed fungal diseases roses, then it is advisable to dig the soil with a turnover of the earth layer. This is how pests that wintered in the upper soil layer are destroyed.

After processing, the soil should be sprinkled around the bushes with compost, humus or humus. This will replenish the trace elements that are necessary for the growth and flowering of climbing roses.

Disease protection

Climbing roses are susceptible to diseases such as powdery mildew and bark cancer.

Powdery mildew is especially effective in humid, hot weather. Spots appear on the leaves of roses white color which may increase over time. The rose bush ceases to bloom first, then grow, and eventually dies. Treat powdery mildew Bordeaux liquid. Spray should be twice at intervals of several days.

When shelters are removed in the spring, bark cancer on rose bushes may show up. Many small bright brown spots appear on the shoots. Over time, they grow, blacken and the entire shoot is tightly taken into the ring. You can save the entire bush only by removing the diseased part, while capturing a little healthy one. The material that is cut out must be burned! Darkness and humidity is a favorable environment for this fungus. Therefore, it is necessary to cover the rose and remove the covering material from it in a timely manner. autumn top dressing nitrogen fertilizers It is best to replace with potassium supplements.

Pest protection

The most common pests for any roses are aphids and spider mite. If there are still a few pests, then you can save the bush with herbs. For example, within twenty minutes boil horsetail or nettle and spray the leaves of the bush with a cooled solution. With a break of several days, this should be done twice. If this method does not help, then the intervention of insecticides is required.

pruning

The purpose of pruning rose bushes: improving the crown, forming a bush, getting abundant and long flowering.

Pruning is carried out at the end of summer, that is, when the plant has already faded. First of all, cut out damaged and diseased branches. If replacement shoots appeared on the branch, then the old branches are also removed. New ones are not removed. Do not cut and two-year-old shoots. Next summer, it will be on them that the bulk of the flowers will be.

Whip garter

The sooner you start the garter, the less trouble the plant will cause, and it will grow in the direction necessary for the gardener. When forming a climbing rose, you do not need to strive to ensure that all of its main branches grow upwards. It may happen that all the leaves and flowers of the shrub will be the top of the plant, which is not very aesthetically pleasing. To avoid this, it is better to try to direct the main branches horizontally. Soon they will have shoots growing up. This principle of formation will ensure a long and luxurious flowering by covering a wall or disguising something.

The branches of a climbing rose will only need to be wrapped in a spiral around a pillar or arch, if the bush is planted near them.

reproduction

Climbing roses are propagated in two ways.

cuttings. From the middle of the shoots take cuttings with at least four buds. The material should be cut only from a faded plant. Planting cuttings will need to be in the shade in well-drained soil. The normal development of the seedling will ensure regular watering and loosening of the soil.

layering. This method of propagation is used in the spring. They choose a shoot and press it to the ground, securely fastening and covering part of the trunk with soil. When watering flowers, the fixed shoot should also be watered. For next year in the spring it is necessary to cut off the grown baby from mother plant. You will get a rooted specimen that can be planted separately in the soil.

Frost protection

To protect a climbing rose from frost, the following requirements must be met:

It is very important to remove all shelters in time in spring so that rose bushes in a humid environment without fresh air did not get sick and did not suffocate. After the shelter is removed, branches on the support should be attached horizontally. In this case, climbing roses will direct their fresh forces to the formation of new eye-pleasing flowers.

Climbing rose in the interior of the garden

garden rose considered the queen of flowers. Summer residents argue that a climbing rose requires increased attention, and only then will it please the eye for a long time. Pro proper care behind a climbing rose, we will talk about the features of its planting and shelter for the winter in our article.

Terms of planting roses in Russia

Planting climbing roses in the Moscow region and middle lane Russia is held in late April - early May, at a soil temperature of 10-12 degrees Celsius, but before the buds open. According to observations, in climbing roses planted in spring, there is a slight lag in growth from autumn seedlings by an average of 14 days.

Planting a climbing rose in summer is recommended for own-rooted (grown from cuttings, layering or propagated by dividing the bush) plants, in containers with a closed root system. It is they who are advised to purchase by novice gardeners, however, it should be borne in mind that in the first year these plants are weaker than grafted specimens, which means they are more demanding for care, especially for shelter for the winter.

Climbing roses are planted in the south in autumn, until mid-October. After 2 weeks, the plant will be able to form new root processes. In winter, the young rhizome hardens, and with the onset of spring it will develop simultaneously with the ground part and form a strong bush.

Site selection and site preparation

The perfect place for planting a climbing rose - a well-lit, flat and dry area with a slight slope for rain and melt water to drain or equipped with drainage. It is not recommended to choose lowlands and wetlands for planting. Stagnant water will lead to rotting of the roots, and the lack of sun and ventilation - to the fungus.

For the same reason, the depth groundwater on the territory of the rose garden should be no higher than 2 meters. If the location of the site does not allow choosing such a place, then the roses are planted on an artificial elevation. A large stone is placed at the bottom of the planting hole, which prevents the roots from deepening and they begin to grow horizontally. climbing rose, which is planted using this technology, requires additional protection of the root system. The roots are well compacted when planting, they are mulched tree bark or sawdust.

If groundwater lies close to the surface, caring for climbing roses involves the presence of a room on the site for moving bushes to winter storage. For this purpose, a dry heated basement or garage, an insulated veranda or terrace are suitable.

Re-planting roses in one place is not desirable

A place where roses have already grown is not suitable - new flowers will develop poorly and lack minerals. In the absence of an alternative, the top soil layer to a depth of half a meter must be replaced.

The soil for planting in the spring is prepared in the fall, in other cases - a month before the planned procedure. Fertile, air- and moisture-permeable loamy soils, with a slightly acidic pH of 5.5-6.5, are most suitable for climbing roses.

V clay soil make coarse sand, humus, compost, turf and leafy soil (6:1:1:1:1); in sandy - clay, soddy soil, humus or compost (2: 2: 1: 1). Based on 1 sq.m. 1 kg is also added to the earth mixture wood ash, a pound of bone meal, 100 g of superphosphate and a kilogram of chalk, depending on the pH of the soil.

climbing rose - perennial with powerful roots, which should be located freely. Therefore, for one bush, they dig a hole up to 70 cm deep and 60 by 60 cm in size. The distance between the holes should be up to 3 m.

Upper layer the soil is set aside, the podzol is removed. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of pebbles or small gravel, a prepared earth mixture is laid out on top of a height of 40 cm, which is sprinkled with a deposited layer of soil.

Curly roses planting and care

Seedlings with an open root system are placed in water 24 hours before planting. When planted in spring, the shoot of a rose is shortened by 2 buds, an average of 30 cm in length. In autumn, the stems are not pruned; after planting, they are shortened in the spring, after the leaves bloom. The roots are cut to a living white tissue by 25 cm and sprinkled with crushed charcoal for disinfection.

The prepared plant is dipped into a creamy clay mash and 1/10 of fresh manure for an hour. For better adaptation, growth regulators are added: Kornevin, Heteroauxin, Etamon, Buton or Phosphobacterin, 3 tablets of which are preliminarily diluted in 0.5 of water.

The grafting site for climbing roses is deepened into the soil by 15 cm so that the plant can put down its own roots. When planting, make sure that the root system is straightened and when falling asleep with earth, air voids do not form. Caring for climbing roses in summer consists in carefully removing wild rose hips with a sharp knife, leaving no stumps, unnecessary cuts or damage.

After planting, the soil is compacted and watered. For watering own-rooted climbing roses, a mixture is used, dissolving one tablet of Heteroauxin and Phosphobacterin per 10 liters of water. Chemicals enhance the protective properties of the plant and activate metabolic processes. To protect the plant from drying out, the bush is spudded and mulched. At a distance of 20 cm, a support is placed for further garter. Curly roses planted in spring are covered with foil for 2 weeks better recovery and adaptation of roots.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year after planting is not difficult. During this period, the plants do not require top dressing. It is important to water the seedlings three times a month, loosen and mulch the soil, and tie the bush to a support. When stems grow up to 3 m long, the support is removed, and the stems are treated with a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Climbing rose landing and care video

Climbing rose care after flowering

To give the bush desired shape from the second year after planting in the ground, they start pruning. Climbing rose, the care of which necessarily includes decorative trimming and shortening of the shoots, is always cut to general rule, regardless of the variety - the number of cut and remaining stems should be the same.

In place of the old, young shoots grow, among which only 3-5 of the strongest are left. As a result, the bush consists of 3-5 flowering and 4-5 young shoots.

Caring for remontant varieties of roses

roses remontant varieties thin out in early spring and after flowering. Strong formative pruning is carried out until the end of June, so that the young shoots have time to ripen before winter. With a later procedure, they may die.

Photo and detailed description climbing varieties you will find roses in our material.

Shelter for the winter and care for roses in spring

Shelter for wintering is carried out in two ways: untied and bent to the ground or fixed on a support.

Unsupported shelter for the winter

The bush is untied from the support. At a slight angle, it is bent to the ground and covered with spruce branches.

The top is wrapped with fiberglass, which allows the plant to breathe and does not let water through. The soil under the plant is sprinkled with dry earth and mulched with fallen leaves.

Shelter on a support

The bush is covered with spruce branches directly on the support, wrapped with agrofiber or burlap and secured with twine.

Removal of winter shelter and spring care

In April, the shelter is removed for several hours a day, completely - after the snow melts. The soil under the bushes is loosened and fresh compost is added. The plant is examined for diseases and damage, if necessary, cutting off the affected area.

Areas with mold treated 15% blue vitriol, and the stems are tied horizontally to the support for less formation of replacement shoots. On horizontal stems, buds form along the entire length of the main stems, not just at the top.

Curly roses, planting and caring for which are carried out in accordance with all the rules, require a mandatory garter:

For tying, choose plastic, silicone twine, and not wire wrapped in paper. It eventually decays from moisture, and the metal can damage the plant;
The strapping should fit the stem tightly, but not injure it;
Supports should be checked regularly and, if necessary, repaired or completely replaced.

Watch out for supports and garter

It is important to remember that poor-quality support or bad twine can break the stems of the bush and seriously damage it.

Outcome

Growing an incredibly beautiful climbing rose in your area is not so difficult, and its fragrance and bright flowers will be noticed by neighbors and guests. Subject to the rules of planting and appropriate care climbing plant will delight with its chic buds for many years.