How to feed young fruit trees in summer. Plant ash for autumn feeding

" Trees

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that plants need feeding at the initial stage of the growing season and are limited to fertilizing in the spring. However, the end of the season is always accompanied by work to prepare the culture for wintering. And one of the important measures is the introduction of a nutrient mixture to strengthen the root system and immunity in general. fruit trees in the autumn in the garden we will talk further.

Enrichment of the soil with nutrients in autumn allows plants to receive the necessary microelements even before the onset of cold weather, which strengthen protective functions... A strong tree hibernates without much loss and actively enters the growing season, intensively throwing out new shoots and buds. Lack of stress contributes to abundant flowering and a long fruiting period. Good immunity provides resistance to attacks by insects and pathogens.

• For, or more, liquid feed is suitable, consisting of 2 st. l. potassium sulfate, 3 tbsp. l. superphosphate and buckets of water. One plant consumes 4 buckets of solution.
• It is better to fertilize quince dry method, distributing 30 grams over the stem circle. superphosphate and 20 gr. potassium salt (per 1 m2).
• To fertilize the land on which peaches grow, you need 110-150 grams. superphosphate and 45-65 gr. potassium salt. Mineral substances are embedded in the soil along the stem circle.

Terms for autumn feeding

It is possible to carry out work on preparing plantings for winter throughout September and part of October, up to the first frost. But it is also not worth delaying the procedure in terms of time, the plant will take time to assimilate nutrients received during processing. If you enrich the land before the establishment of stable cold weather, the tree will not have time to gain strength, which means that feeding will be ineffective.

Before applying the nutrient mixture, it is recommended to clean the soil surface from fallen leaves, cut off dried and damaged branches, and repair traces of mechanical damage on the trunk, if any. Also, preparation involves digging in the barrel in a circle with a slightly lower immersion than a shovel bayonet. As a result, it turns out trunk circle.

How to fertilize plantings before winter

There are several types of fertilizers, each of which deserves attention. Before using it, it will not be superfluous to familiarize yourself with the advantages of one or another option in order to choose the most effective feeding.

Mineral autumn dressings in September and October

This type of plant nutrition has a simple chemical composition from safe for plants and environment microelements. Existing mineral fertilizers are conventionally divided into simple and complex. These definitions are conditional, since even simple options contain a sufficient amount of nutrients for the normal development of the culture. Complex formulations contain 2-3 main components and several additional ones, presented in a small dosage.

The granules can be distributed over the soil surface around the trunk of the tree, followed by watering and embedding, or dissolved in water for watering the plant at the root.

Mineral dressing can be used both dry and diluted

Phosphorus compounds for fruit trees

Ammophos is also considered to be the most popular fertilizers in gardening from the phosphoric group. It is believed that it is better to choose double superphosphate, there is less gypsum in it, and the dosage of the main component is increased.

Phosphorus slows down the process of dissolution of compounds used in fertilizing. This increases the effectiveness of the procedure for enriching the soil with nutrients. The advantages of phosphorus compounds are the ability to strengthen the root system, give the plant strength and energy. Also, phosphorus contributes to the accumulation of sugar and protein in the sap of the tree.

Good potash fertilizers

Autumn top dressing with a potash composition allows even fragile plants to survive severe frosts. Fertilizers of two types are produced: chloride and sulfate. Before use, you should familiarize yourself with the susceptibility of each fruit tree to chlorine and sulfur. For example, pears and apple trees react well to chlorine, which cannot be said about fruit bushes.

When applying potash fertilizers, it is important to take into account the environment in the soil so as not to acidify it, for example, with potassium sulfate.

Potassium supplements help plants survive the cold

Combined fertilizers to increase yields

The use of mixed dressings is also important for the autumn preparation for winter. Alternatively, fill in the holes at the roots with a mixture of the following components:

• humus (5 kg);
• superphosphate (50 gr.);
• chloride or potassium sulfate (30 g.).

The composition must first be mixed well so that all substances are distributed evenly. After throwing soil, the holes should be watered.

For young crops, whose age does not exceed 5 years, organic matter is taken in a lower dosage. And for trees over 8 years old, the amount of fertilizer increases by 20-30%.

Another type of combined nutrition is phosphorus-potassium compounds. The balanced product facilitates application and enriches the soil with all the necessary valuable minerals.

Combined dressings are good for beginners who do not yet understand how to care for plantings.

Plant ash for garden autumn feeding

Plant ash is considered a versatile product that can be used dry or dissolved in water. This top dressing is suitable for almost all crops. Thanks to ash, the soil is deoxidized, enriched with trace elements necessary for normal vegetation:

• magnesium;
• calcium;
• potassium;
• zinc;
• copper;
• sulfur and other substances.

When using this fertilizer, it is worth considering that the proportions of the constituent microelements vary depending on the feedstock (grass, straw, peat).

Wood ash is a potash type of fertilizer due to the high content of such a component as potassium. Hardwoods have an indicator of 14-16%, conifers - 4-6%.

Ash feeding has the following advantages:

• stems and trunks of plants are strengthened;
• strengthens the immune system, which increases the chances of survival in the winter;
• the culture resistance to various infections and viruses increases;
• the presence of potassium keeps from rapid growth and premature ripening of fruits;
• the main component is involved in photosynthesis, converting nutrients into starch.

When using plant ash for fertilizing plantings, it is recommended to adhere to the consumption rate: 250 grams per 1 m2.

How to feed shrubs with organic matter in the garden

To ensure the nutrition of fruit plantations, it is appropriate to use almost all types of organic fertilizers:,. Often organics are combined with mineral fertilizers, which creates optimal conditions to saturate the soil with valuable trace elements and maintain vitality plants in the cold season.

More often it is embedded in the soil around the trunk to a depth of 10-15 cm. But it is also allowed to enrich the soil with a solution prepared on the basis of manure or bird droppings. When making liquid food, it is worth strictly adhering to the consumption rates and dosages so as not to burn the plant.

Autumn fertilization is distinguished by the formulations and proportions used for young seedlings and mature trees. A large dosage of nutrients will negatively affect the development of the plant, and in some cases will provoke its death.

It is necessary to feed it dry. The nutrients are embedded in the soil around the tree trunk or cover the surface of the soil as mulch. If you use the same minerals or organic matter in combination with water, you get no less valuable liquid feed, which is watered at the root of the plants. The effectiveness of such processing lies in the fact that all the components used are distributed evenly in the soil.

The main advantage of liquid fertilizers is the form of nutrients available to plants. This type of feed is especially suitable for those crops that have a long growing period.

The most popular are fertilizers based on or... To prepare the solution, first a small part of the organic matter is infused in water for a week, obtaining a concentrated liquid. For further use, you will need to dilute the workpiece with water and water the plants at the root 2-3 times per season, including autumn.

Correctly carried out shrub autumn feeding will strengthen the immunity of fruit trees, which will allow them to survive the painlessly harsh winter and increase the yield. And what kind of fertilizer to choose and apply for fruit trees and berry bushes is up to you!

It is important to realize that feeding fruit trees and shrubs spring is an important event on the way to obtaining a bountiful harvest. At the beginning of the growing season, any crop in or in the garden requires a supply of nutrients, without which full development and good fruiting are impossible.

What shrubs and trees need in spring

Most in spring fruit trees and bushes need nitrogen. It plays a key role in their growth, in the development of a powerful root system, in the formation of new leaves, flowers and fruits. Nitrogen-containing top dressing can increase yields, as well as significantly improve the quality of fruits.

In addition to nitrogen in the spring, garden plants need such chemical elements like potassium, magnesium, phosphorus, iron, sulfur, boron, cobalt, copper, manganese. There are two ways to feed shrubs and fruit trees:

Spring complex mineral fertilizers- are a product of the chemical industry and are developed taking into account the needs of specific types of crops in a certain period.
Organic feed- are the result of natural processes of nature (bird droppings or cow dung, compost).

Organic feeding is part of nature

The first spring feeding of horticultural crops

Experts advise feeding fruit trees and shrubs for the first time at the very beginning of spring. You should not wait until all the snow has melted, but the ground should thaw a little. For feeding during this period, use nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, urea). Spread them around each trunk in the snow, which, during thawing, will deliver nitrogen and other important chemical elements to the root system of fruit trees with shrubs.

During such feeding, it is important not to overdo it, as excess nitrogen will harm the culture. Having received an extra portion of this element, the tree will begin to develop its crown and root system so actively that it is necessary to tie and good development fruits will leave very little strength. How to calculate the amount of feeding? Very simple - use about 40 g for one young tree, and about 100 g for an adult tree.

Don't overdo it with nitrogen supplements

If you are a follower organic dressings, wait until the ground is completely thawed. Prepare a nutrient solution by adding 300 g of urea, 1.5 L of droppings, or 4 L of manure to a bucket of water. For reference: spend 3-4 liters of fertilizing per tree.

Second feeding of fruit trees and shrubs

During flowering and leaf formation, bushes and fruit trees especially need potassium and phosphorus. Potassium is necessary for the formation of new shoots, an increase in the sugar level in fruits, as well as for the resistance of crops to diseases and adverse external factors... Phosphorus helps to strengthen the root system of bushes and trees.

Experienced gardeners say that it is better not to purchase mineral fertilizers containing both substances at once, but rather to add them to the soil separately. First, phosphoric, called "superphosphate" - 60 g per mature tree... A little later, potassium (potassium salt, potassium magnesium, potassium sulfate, ash) - 20 g per tree.

Third and fourth spring fertilization of garden plants

It is very important to feed berry bushes and fruit trees in the spring after flowering for full fruit development. During this period, organics are best suited. From organic fertilizers, compost is especially fond of gardeners. They watered the root zone of flowering garden plants, having previously diluted with water.

During the period of development of the set fruits, it is advisable to once again feed the garden crops with organic matter (mullein, compost, vermicompost). If this is not possible, then purchase a special mineral mixture, with a slight predominance of nitrogen in the composition. Either embed the fertilizer in the ground, or mix with mulch.

During the period of flowering and the formation of the ovary, fruit trees and shrubs need potassium and phosphorus.

Useful tips for feeding berry bushes and fruit trees

In the spring feeding of garden plants, there are some features that every gardener must know:
Carrier chemical substances water comes out of the top dressing to the roots of a tree or bush, therefore, after applying dry fertilizer, thorough watering is needed.
Liquid top dressing should not be applied to dry soil so that burns do not remain on the roots.
Horticultural crops do not need to be fertilized for the first year after planting.
Fertilizer is best done in the evening.

Each experienced gardener realizes how important it is to feed fruit trees and shrubs in the spring. Without it, the chances of getting a bountiful harvest are negligible. If you give the plant everything it needs, it will certainly thank you with an abundance of delicious fruits.

How to care for apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, how to plant fruit seedlings how and how to fertilize the orchard correctly, how to care for the seedlings, how to care for the orchard, when and what fertilizers to apply under the apple trees, how to water the apple trees.

You will find the answer to all these questions in the article below. This article describes in detail how to care for an orchard.

You planted fruit seedlings last spring. Of course, in the first summer there was nothing to expect from them normal growth, it is good that they have taken root. And this spring, buds have swollen on thin twigs and strong young leaves have hatched. So, the first winter was successfully survived by the seedlings. But for a long time the new settlers in your garden will need increased attention to themselves.
In the early years, they only use a small area - both above and below the ground. Their roots spread out to the sides a little further than the branches. The rest of the area between the rows is occupied by gardeners with a vegetable garden or strawberries.
The trunks themselves are another matter: here both soil care and fertilizers are intended directly for the young tree. In other words, a young garden should have two systems of fertilization and soil care: one for inter-row crops, the other for near-stem circles.
The area of ​​the trunk circle is determined as follows: in the first year it is about one and a half times larger than the circle that can be outlined at the ends of the branches, and then every year it expands in all directions by half a meter. Typically in middle lane radius of the circle (distance from the stem to the edge).
Most often, the soil of the near-trunk circles is kept in a loose and weed-free state. Twice a year - in spring and autumn - it is carefully dug (if possible with a pitchfork) to a depth of 10-12 cm at the trunk and 20 cm along the edge of the circle. In summer, after rains and watering, they shallowly loosen again. And only at the end of summer, and even then, if not too dry, do they stop loosening and weeding.
New settlers in your garden need water, and by the way, much more than adult trees. In the first two years after planting, they need to be watered 4-5 times per season, regardless of the rains, unless they are very abundant or lingering. Pour under each apple tree. In the following years, water less often, but twice as much.
And remember: never pour under the barrel; it is best to make a shallow furrow around it. But the most important, and at the same time, the most difficult thing from the first days of a young tree's life is to establish its correct nutrition. Suppose, during planting, you brought into the planting hole completely everything that is recommended: 3-4 buckets of humus (or 2-3 buckets of stale manure, or 5-7 buckets of peat); or potassium chloride (the norms are given for apple trees on soils of the Non-Black Earth Region).
Such doses seem to be sufficient for a tree for several years. But it’s not that simple.
There is indeed enough phosphorus and potassium, but all of it is within the pit. As soon as the roots grow beyond its borders, they will find themselves in unfertilized and, moreover, unloosened, uncultivated soil, and this will immediately affect the growth of the tree. Your task is to improve the soil of not only today's, but also the future tree-trunk circle. And not on the surface, but to the depth of two bayonets of a shovel - then it will be cultivated. And this must be done now, in the first years after planting.
Outside the planting pit, beyond the ends of the branches, a wide ring should be sprinkled with phosphorus and potash fertilizers in increased doses: for each square meter... It is also good to add manure or compost here in normal doses, and dig everything up. The next year, or at least a year later, all this must be repeated, and then the ring must be dug twice as deep as usual, that is, into two bayonets of a shovel. The lower layers of the soil, which are now on top, also need to be fertilized in the future.
Deep digging is best done in the spring, not in the fall.
You can do it differently. Instead of a ring, also outside the crown, about 120 cm from the trunk, they dig 4 trenches 40 cm deep each. They are placed on four sides, but so that they do not close: there should be 50-75 cm between their ends. The soil taken out of the trenches is fertilized in the same way as for planting holes (per unit volume). For example, the length of the trench on one side of the tree is 120 cm, the width is 50, the depth is 40, therefore, the volume is 0.24 cubic meters. And the volume of all four trenches is about a cubic meter, that is, twice as much as the planting hole, and, therefore, twice as much fertilizer will be needed (we have already mentioned the doses for the planting hole).
Fertilizers are mixed with the removed soil, then the trenches are filled up (preferably simultaneously with watering) and compacted. If the soil is sandy, it is good to make a layer of clay with manure at the bottom of the trench so that fertilizers are less washed out.
In four years, new trenches will be needed. They must be placed 50-70 cm further and - in relation to the old trenches - diagonally, that is, opposite the gaps. In subsequent years, another row of trenches can be made. In other words, in the path of the growing roots, you substitute nutritious foci. And even if some "advanced" roots fall under the shovel, do not be afraid: the tree as a whole will get immeasurably more from improving the soil.
In addition, the usual doses of phosphorus and potassium should be introduced into the surface layer of the soil of the entire trunk circle at least once every 4 years, as well.
It is such a deep cultivation of the soil that will gradually lead to the fact that "the whole garden becomes a continuous planting hole," as IV Michurin advised.
Well, if such a thing is not within your power - after all, indeed, it is a great work - then how to be? You will have to apply fertilizers superficially more than once every 3-4 years, but every year - in the hope that phosphorus and potassium, albeit slowly, not immediately, will reach the roots. And the doses should be approximately the same for poor, non-chernozem soils: per 1 sq. meter of the trunk circle - 60 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. And every 2-3 years: (these are the usual doses for surface application).
For cherries and plums, all the figures given here should be reduced by about a quarter: both the amount of fertilizer, and the depth of digging or trenches, and the time for cultivation, since the volume of roots in the soil, and the life of these trees, is shorter than that of an apple and a pear.
Nitrogen must be given to trees constantly, as needed, but not in the very first year after planting, because it has been noticed that it has a bad effect on root engraftment. And starting from the second year it is brought in constantly - either in early spring, or so: two-thirds in the spring, a third in the summer (with top dressing), at the rate of 6-12 g per 1 sq. meter. During the season, it is necessary to add 20-40 g of ammonium nitrate or 12-25 g of urea, or 30-60 g of ammonium sulfate for each square meter of the trunk circle. Moreover, trees will receive part of the nitrogen from the introduction (although not annually) of manure, peat or compost. A young tree itself will tell you whether everything is in order with these nutrients: weak growth, pale small leaves "speak" of the need to add nitrogen. If there are no such signs, do not.
And, finally, let's say once again: all of the above applies only to the near-trunk circles. Row spacings in a young garden receive care and fertilization, if only because other crops grow nearby. However, over time, the trunk circles will expand so much that everything will be forced out of the row spacing. By this time, the soil has already been enriched so that fertilizers will need to be applied only in maintenance doses, and this is already much easier. Having entered the time of full fruiting, the garden will thank you in full for those chores that now, perhaps, seem burdensome. "
V. SHCHERBAKOVA, agronomist.

Do not deny the courtesy if you liked the advice,
do not forget about rek-mu. Best regards, Yuri Moskvin.
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Before planting seedlings of fruit trees, pre-planting soil filling with organic and mineral fertilizers is always carried out. Therefore, it is not necessary to fertilize seedlings in the first year of development. Subsequently, fertilizers should be applied as needed in the near-stem circles, which should be dug up annually in a young garden (up to 5-6 years old) (see fig.).

Fertilization should be applied regularly as the trees begin to bear fruit. Fruit trees have been growing in the garden for decades and constantly absorb nutrients from the soil, the content of nutrients in it decreases, as a result, without feeding, the yield of fruit trees decreases over time.

To restore soil fertility, it is necessary to regularly replenish the supply of nutrients, apply organic and mineral fertilizers. The type and amount of fertilizer applied is determined by the type of soil and the age of the trees. The need for fertilization of trees can be determined by the growth of annual shoots. Fertilizer must be applied if the growth length in a young tree is less than 40 cm, and in a fruiting tree - less than 20 cm.

The total amount of fertilizer should be calculated taking into account the area to be fertilized:

With a diameter of the trunk circle of 2 m, the fertilized area is 3 m 2;

With a circle diameter of 3 m - 7 m 2;

With a circle diameter of 4 m - 12 m 2;

With a diameter of 5 m and more - about 19 m 2.

❧ Manure from greenhouses should not be applied under the grapes - there are usually many beetle larvae in it, which gnaw through the underground trunks of grape bushes.

Trees in the first years of their life in the garden have roots of small diameter, so there is no point in scattering fertilizer over the entire area of ​​the garden. It is best to do this within the crown projection, where up to 90% of the active roots are located.

In nutrition fruit plants during the growing season, there are two periods:

From the beginning of the spring growing season to the end of shoot growth;

From the end of the growth of shoots until late autumn.

Usually fruit crops most of all need nutrients in the first half of summer, therefore, the main volume of fertilizers should be applied when digging late autumn and in spring and summer it is better to give less fertilizer. Perennial fruiting trees especially need nitrogen for vegetative growth and fruit formation. Therefore, the main amount of nitrogen fertilizers should be given in spring and in the first half of summer.

Fertilizers for young trees

Fertilization of young fruit trees with organic and mineral fertilizers enhances their growth, accelerates fruiting.

In early spring, 2 - 3 years after planting, nitrogen fertilizers should be applied at the rate of 40 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of synthetic urea (carbamide) per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle.

Manure - the most valuable organic fertilizer for fruit trees - is applied every 2 years, starting from the 3rd year after planting, at 5 - 6 kg per 1 m2 of the trunk circle. Slurry should be applied when feeding fruit trees in the spring before flowering, diluting with water 3-4 times. Dry chicken droppings you can apply 300 g per 1 m 2 of fertilized area after flowering, with spring feeding it must be diluted with water (1 kg in 10 liters of water).

From the second year of life, trees can be given annually phosphate-potassium fertilizers in the fall for digging, the calculation is made for each m2 of the trunk circle. On gray forest and soddy-podzolic soils, it is necessary to make: manure or compost - 3 - 5 kg, superphosphate - 50-60 g, potassium chloride - 15-20 g or 150 g of wood ash.

On soils with good fertility, this volume should be reduced by 1.5-2 times or fertilized every 2-3 years. Fertilizers should be planted at a distance of 20-25 cm from the tree trunk, since the introduction of a large amount of fresh manure and mineral fertilizers near the trunk can lead to the death of the tree.

Based on the fertility of the soil, approximately the following amount of fertilizers is required:

For an apple tree 2-3 years old - superphosphate 100-200 g and potassium chloride 35-70 g;

For an apple tree 4-5 years old - superphosphate 150-300 g and potassium chloride 50-100 g. Pears, cherries and plums require fertilizers in the same doses.

Starting from the 4th year after planting, fruit trees should be fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers according to the following calculation:

Potash fertilizers (potassium salt 40%) apply approximately 12-15 g;

Apply phosphorus fertilizers (superphosphate) approximately 8-10 g of active ingredient per 1 m2 of trunk circle area.

From the 5th year after planting, fruit trees need to be fertilized with full mineral fertilizer, which should contain 15-18 g of nitrogen, 8 g of phosphorus and 12 g of potassium. The calculation of the nutrient is done per 1 m2 of the fertilized area.

Fertilizers for fruiting trees

Fruiting trees on soils of insufficient fertility are supposed to be fertilized annually, on fertile soils you can do this every 2-3 years.

Phosphorus-potassium and organic fertilizers they are introduced entirely, over the entire surface of the row spacings, covering them in the fall by digging the soil. Nitrogen | Fertilizers are best applied to the furrows in the spring in the form of top dressing. However, ammonium sulfate can be applied in the fall.

For young fruit-bearing trees, it is better to apply two dressings. One top dressing should be done in early spring on all soils, since there are no nitrates in the soil at the beginning of the growing season.

The second top dressing should be done in late spring or early summer on poor or light soils, regardless of their fertility. When two dressings are carried out, 55-65% of the annual dose of nitrogen should be applied in early spring, and 35-45% - in early summer.

For these purposes, you can use ammonium nitrate and urea, which must be scattered on the surface. But urea is supposed to be slightly embedded in the soil - in the open air it simply evaporates when moisture enters. Ammonium nitrate is gradually absorbed into the soil.

If the second dressing is done before rain or watering, then fertilizer can also be applied superficially. In dry weather, they should be diluted in water at the rate of 25-30 g per 10 liters. With the surface application of dry phosphorus and potash fertilizers, the fruit tree cannot always use them. Fertilizing dry soil can also cause oppression of plants due to a sharp increase in the concentration of the soil solution.

On light soils, the fertilizing solution can be applied superficially; on loamy and clayey soils, it is better to apply it into grooves 10-15 cm deep, no closer than 1 m from tree trunks. For top dressing, apply solutions of slurry, mullein, bird droppings by introducing them into the furrows. After absorbing the solution, the furrows must be covered with earth.

With a plentiful harvest in a fruiting garden, a third top dressing is needed, during the June shedding of the ovaries (at the end of June). This top dressing should be done in the same way as the second one. In young gardens, the third top dressing cannot be done so as not to provoke protracted growth. For the third top dressing, you can apply nitrophos or nitroammophos, it is better to introduce them into the furrows. If in the fall a sufficient amount of ammonium sulfate was introduced, which is well preserved in the soil, then the first top dressing in early spring can be carried out in a reduced dose or even do without it.

Outside root dressing fruit trees should be carried out in order to introduce nitrogen and trace elements directly into the plant, bypassing the soil, through the leaves, by spraying them with an appropriate solution.

For foliar nitrogen feeding urea will do. In the spring, you should dilute 30 g of the substance per 10 liters of water, in the summer you need to take 40-50 g for the same amount of water. It is recommended to prepare the solution on the day of use, spray it early in the morning or in the evening, in the afternoon it is possible only in cloudy weather, but without rain. Foliar dressing is especially useful for trees that have weakened after freezing, in case of signs of plant starvation or in years of abundant harvest as an additional fertilizer to the main soil dose. For foliar application microelements, it is recommended to use appropriate solutions of salts of very low concentration.

Foliar feeding of fruit-bearing trees allows you to quickly adjust the nutrition of the plant organism and replenish the missing elements. In addition, it is the most effective p way to overcome the effects of micronutrient starvation.

Fertilizers for apple trees

Perennial plants even at the very good fertilization planting pits for apple, plum or cherry trees need additional nutrition throughout their lives. As the trees grow over time root system, the biological mass increases, then the older their age, the larger doses of fertilizers are required.

For the normal development of a two-year-old apple tree seedling, on average, it is required to make at least 1 bucket of manure, 20 g of urea, 30 g of potassium chloride and 100 g of superphosphate. The volume of the same fertilizers for a 3-4-year-old apple tree increases by one and a half times. For 5-6-year-old trees, it is necessary to apply twice as much, for 9-10-year-old trees, a fourfold increase in the amount of the same fertilizers is required.

Over time, the diameter of the trunk circle also grows, in the zone of which it is supposed to make deep root dressings. In practice, gardeners determine the diameter of the circle by the size of the crown of the plant. The trunk circle of a two-year-old apple tree does not exceed 2 m 2, while the circle of a 10-year-old tree is 4 m 2.

All the basic rules for fertilizing fruit trees apply to the apple tree, but there are some peculiarities. The apple tree needs to be fed annually. potash fertilizers... Lack of potassium leads to a deterioration in root development, uneven ripening of apples (they have an immature appearance), and delayed leaf fall. With a shortage of phosphorus in the apple tree, the growing season is prolonged and the winter hardiness of the tree decreases. It is better to apply all nitrogen-containing fertilizers under the apple tree in the spring, and phosphorus and potash fertilizers should be applied in the fall.

Harvested, warm summer days are coming to an end. It's time to start processing fruits and vegetables, storing them. This will take a maximum of a week, and then again to the garden to help the fruit trees and shrubs prepare for winter.

Top dressing of fruit trees in autumn - important stage garden work, because trees grow in one place for many years and annually take nutrients from the soil, the lack of which can affect productivity, immunity and appearance plants.

Autumn events are held after fruiting after 2 weeks, when the movement of juices is suspended and sanitary pruning, pest control measures, whitewashing or wrapping can be carried out at the same time orchard for the winter.

What fertilizers to use

Avid gardeners do not waste anything, therefore fertilizers for fruit trees and shrubs in the fall can be found here - on the site.

This is a useful organic matter that does not allow the earth to deplete. Unused fruits rot right under the trees, providing food for soil bacteria that create humus - the main substance, the amount of which affects the soil fertility.

Unfortunately, such autumn fertilizers are not enough for the garden and vegetable garden. To prevent the trees from getting sick, they must be provided with a full range of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Potassium-phosphorus autumn dressing in the garden is good, but you need to be careful with nitrogen.

Organic fertilizers

The possibility of increasing the thickness of the fertile layer gives the autumn feeding of fruit trees organic matter. How does this happen:

• The nutrients enter the soil, where soil bacteria and earthworms begin to eat them.

• Due to the rains, unrecycled residues sink into the lower layers. Accordingly, microorganisms move deeper into the soil for food, where they leave their waste products.

The more organic matter in the soil, the better it holds moisture and the more nutritious it is for plants. What to use and how to feed fruit trees in the fall:

• wood ash;

• manure, humus;

• chicken droppings;

• compost;

• siderates.

Wood ash is considered autumn fertilization for fruit trees and bushes. It contains no nitrogen, only potassium, phosphorus and calcium. This is all that fruit trees are fed with in August-September. In addition to the main nutrients, plant residues contain microdoses of substances that affect the plant's immunity: boron, zinc, copper, iron, magnesium, manganese and others.

To stock up on a sufficient amount of ash, it is necessary to collect it after burning leaves, branches, unnecessary bark and store it in a dry place, closed from moisture.

To properly apply ash fertilization and ensure assimilation by trees, you must first water the soil. But autumn watering isn't about 2 - 3 buckets. Depending on the age of the tree and the size of its crown, it may go away 200 - 250 liters of water each. So that the water is well absorbed and does not spill over the site, the soil is dug around the trunk.

Ash is brought in at the same time - 200 g per square meter. This is followed by abundant watering and mulching, which reduces evaporation and warms the roots of the trees. Especially useful for the autumn feeding of young, newly transplanted plants.

Top dressing of fruit trees in autumn is carried out with rotted manure. Fresh is not used either in the autumn or in the spring. It contains a lot of active ammonia, which in a matter of days will damage tree roots and destroy seedlings. In the garden, manure is used one or two years ago.

It is not recommended to keep it any longer, as the substance loses its beneficial features... The manure is evenly distributed along the near-trunk circle and dug to a depth of 30 cm, then watered large quantity water, as already described. About 6 kg of manure is needed per square meter.

WITH chicken droppings that has been in bed for at least a year, do the same. You can make a solution: Pour a third of a bucket of droppings with water and leave for a week. Dig up the trunk circle, pour out the solution and pour water on top. Bird droppings are more nutritious therefore enough 3 - 4 kg per square meter.

Recently, manure has been replaced with green manure. In terms of nutritional value, they are in no way inferior to animal organics, but they are much easier and cheaper to use. Plant residues contain a full range of nutrients: nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus.

Video: How to feed fruit trees in autumn

Nitrogen in green manure until complete dissolution and decay is not available to plants, therefore it is safe in autumn time. With siderates, proceed as follows:

• They are cut off from the garden and transferred under fruit trees.

• Dug up with the soil and watered. On top to accelerate decay, you can lay mulch from leaves or straw.

You can sow several types of green manure plants directly under the trees and do not cut them for the winter. In the cold season, the plants will die and by the spring they will be partially decomposed by soil microorganisms. The layer of green manure must be at least 15 cm.

If the farm has a compost heap and the gardener practices compost cultivation, this is the safest and most reliable way than to feed fruit trees and shrubs in the fall. The maturation of compost takes a long time - a year or a half. Consists of a mixture of animals and plant residues, kitchen waste, garden soil... When ripe, the mixture has a black saturated color with the smell of the earth.

Next two years you can either not feed the plants at all, or use mineral mixtures which will be discussed in the next section.

Mineral mixtures for feeding the garden in autumn

How to feed trees and shrubs in the fall, so as not to harm: you must follow the same principle by which organic matter is used. Mineral nitrogen must not be used. It dissolves quickly and is absorbed by plants, unlike organic.

The most popular are:

• superphosphate to support and strengthen the root system - 50 g per square meter;

• potassium sulfate or potassium sulfate - 40 g per square;

• potassium chloride;

• phosphate rock.

Typically, gardeners simply sprinkle the pellets on the ground and water. Phosphorus is inactive in the soil, so it does not move to the lower layers in winter. Superphosphates are applied with potash fertilizers, since these elements interact well and are more effective in steam than separately.

You can choose a mixture of how to fertilize trees in the fall at a garden store. There are special "autumn" mixtures, where nitrogen is either completely absent, or is present in minimal concentrations. The proportions of the substances are given in the instructions.

In autumn, you can use potassium chloride, which not all plants like. But during winter period active chlorine is eroded and neutralized. In the spring, such fertilizers are not used, since chlorine inhibits vegetative organs, as a result of which there is a delay in growth and flowering.

Once every 3-4 years you can use phosphate rock, which is considered a long-lasting autumn fertilizer for the garden. Minerals need time and soil acids to dissolve, so autumn dressing is preferable.

In the next 3 years it will be necessary to use only potash dressings and nitrogen spring, not counting organics. Before adding phosphate rock, the soil must not be limy, because phosphorus does not dissolve in an alkaline environment, and the plants will develop poorly and bear fruit worse.

Foliar feeding of trees in autumn

Copper sulfate, which is used to process and at the same time feed trees in the fall, is a generally recognized remedy for pest control and maintenance of plant immunity. The main trace element is copper. In the fall, use more concentrated solutions for spraying plants in the garden. In the spring, you need to have time to process the garden before budding, that is, until the juices begin to move.

For spraying and feeding fruit trees and shrubs in the fall, iron sulfate is used. It effectively destroys fungal spores, as well as moss and lichens on the bark. This drug does not protect against bacterial infection. When working with poisonous substances, wear protective equipment and goggles.