Growing garden roses: care technology. Rose - the queen of flowers: planting and care in the open field Transplanting and caring for roses in the garden

Flowers are a living art and the rose is the queen of flowers. Its aroma and variety of forms of inflorescences awaken in us all the most tender and beautiful. Many would like to have a rose bush in their area, they look with envy as these queens shine with their neighbors, but they are afraid of “difficulties” and leave their hopes of having such a beauty in their dreams. In fact, in growing roses, the most important secrets are desire and courage. What should be considered when planting a rose bush? Let's find out.

Rose Grace by David Austin. © David Austin Content:

Choosing a place and preparing the soil for planting roses

For roses, open, well-lit areas protected from the wind are preferred. Before planting, it is necessary to prepare the soil well. The soil is considered well prepared if it contains enough nutrients, humus and is free of pests. Before planting roses, the site is planned, divided into quarters, the planting material is sorted by variety, and a planting tool is prepared.

When to plant roses?

You can have excellent planting material, prepare the soil well and even take good care of roses, but if they are planted incorrectly, the viability and yield of the bushes, the quality of the flowers will be much lower than with proper planting. The main task of planting is to ensure full survival. The timing of planting roses is determined by the climatic conditions of the area. You can plant roses in spring and autumn. Autumn planting pays off when protecting plants from cold and moisture. Roses planted at this time develop much better than those planted in spring.

Soak the roots of roses in a nutrient solution. © David Austin

The best time planting - before the onset of permanent frost - guarantees the survival of the roots. Under favorable conditions, 10-12 days after planting roses in autumn, small young white roots form on the roots, which, before the onset of frost, have time to harden and turn brown, that is, they take the form of active growth root hairs. In this form, the bushes winter well, and in the spring both the root and above-ground parts of the plants immediately begin to develop.

Sometimes in the south, the buds of newly planted roses begin to sprout in autumn. This should not be feared. In this case, the growing green shoot is pinched after the formation of the third leaf. If the third leaf has not yet formed, but frosts are expected, then the growing green shoot is pinched so that a stalk 5-10 mm long remains from its base.

Usually in autumn there are more opportunities to purchase good planting material for roses. Having received it at the end of September, it is quite possible to plant it - with appropriate shelter for the winter, roses will not disappear. Having received roses late in the fall, it is better to dig them on winter storage, for example, in a layer of slightly moistened sand (40-50 cm) in a basement with a temperature of 0 to minus 2 °C. The room should not be dry, otherwise it is periodically sprayed with water to a relative humidity of 70-80%.

You can store planting material outdoors in a trench or hole under a canopy. The trench is arranged so that there is a gap of 5-10 cm between the soil and the shelter, through which air must pass. From above, the trench is covered with boards. V very coldy leaves, needles or soil are piled on the boards. It is even better to use an air-dry storage method for wintering roses.

We dig up the ground in the place of planting roses. © David Austin We loosen the soil. © David Austin Digging a hole for planting a rose bush. © David Austin

In the spring, planting roses should not be late. From the strong heating of the soil by the sun, water from the tissues of the plant quickly evaporates and the roots take root poorly. If the rose seedlings are somewhat dried up, that is, the green bark on the shoots is wrinkled, the material is immersed in water for one day, after which it is added dropwise to moist soil in the shade before planting.

If the rose seedlings are frozen during shipment, they are placed in a package in a cool room for thawing.

Processing roses before planting

Before planting, the stems and roots are cut so that the number of remaining shoots matches the number of remaining roots. This is due to the fact that during digging and transportation, a huge part of the roots is lost. In the initial period of growth, small roots cannot provide nutrition to the entire vegetative mass of newly planted rose bushes. After removing the extra shoots, the remaining one or three are shortened to 10-12 cm, leaving two or three dormant buds on each. This pruning will good survival seedlings. Often this is not done, as a result there is a large attack of seedlings.

We plant a rose observing the level. © David Austin

Planting roses

When planting on pre-cultivated soil, plowed or dug up by 50-60 cm, the distance between the rows is left in accordance with the dimensions of the processing agricultural implements - 80-100 cm, the distance in the row, depending on the variety, the thickness of the bush - 30-60 cm. Dimensions landing pits or trenches are chosen so that the roots can be freely placed on the earthen roller.

When planting in non-planted areas, pits 40-50 cm in size are arranged. When digging such pits, the upper nutrient soil layer 25 cm thick is laid separately from the lower one. Then add to the top layer: organic fertilizers (preferably rotted cow dung) - 8 kg per landing pit, superphosphate - 25 g each, potash fertilizers- 10 g each. The missing amount of soil is taken from the lower layer. All this is well mixed.

The bottom of the pit is covered with 10 cm of rotted manure and dug up on a spade bayonet, after which it is covered with soil in such a way that a roller is formed from the soil on which the roots are laid out.

Then the rest of the soil is covered, shaking the roots slightly to evenly place them in the soil. In order not to form air voids around the roots, the soil is slightly compacted after planting, making a small hole around the bush so that the water does not spread during irrigation. Watered at the rate of 10 liters per bush. The next day after planting, the place of budding should be 3-4 cm below the soil horizon. If it turned out to be lower, then the bush should be lifted with a shovel and soil should be poured under it. If the bush is above the mark, it is lowered.

We trample the earth around the rose bush and water it. © David Austin

After two or three days, the soil is loosened to a depth of 3 cm and the bush is spudded with soil to the level of the cut of the shoots, that is, 10 cm. As soon as the buds begin to develop, the soil is removed from the shoots. Newly planted roses, until they develop normal leaves, it is useful to spray early in the morning or in the evening before sunset (so that the leaves have time to dry).

Let's find out in more detail what a climbing rose is. Planting and care in the open field for this marvelous flower will be discussed in stages in this article. Correct fit- a pledge of abundant and long flowering. How to care for climbing roses? Summer residents and gardeners appreciate the weaving variety of roses. They know that with the help of climbing roses you can turn even the most modest area into a beautiful romantic corner.

Climbing roses, description

Shoots of climbing roses can reach several meters. Any support located in close proximity to the bush is quickly entwined with its long and flexible branches. You have probably admired the flower arches of amazing beauty more than once. Flower columns, pyramids, tapestries, well-camouflaged old buildings, part of a wall or roof - any garden structure a luxurious climbing rose can decorate with its presence. This type of plant is ideal for vertical gardening, however, in order for everything to look harmonious and attractive, you should know the rules for planting, pruning, caring for and protecting bushes from pests.

The color scheme of this type of rose is as diverse as that of their park or ground cover relatives. Bud sizes can be from 2.5 to 12 cm in diameter, varieties of climbing roses bloom in June and continue to bloom as long as the warm season lasts (approximately 30-170 days, depending on the variety). There are many varieties of climbing roses, but all of them can be divided into groups:

• Semi-climbing, whose height reaches 1.5-3 meters.
• Climbing - 3-5 meters.
• Curly - 5-15 meters.

The shoots of these roses are formed continuously, the phases of budding and flowering differ, again, depending on the variety. Among these representatives there are both once flowering species and re-flowering.

Climbing rose, photo:

The buds of certain varieties can exude a pronounced aroma that is heard at a distance, some are fragrant slightly audibly, subtly and gently.

How to plant a climbing rose, choosing a place

This culture will thrive in sunny places with good ventilation. Wetlands are strictly contraindicated for her, as well as sandstones and heavy clay soil. In general, loose loams or fertile soils with good soil permeability are most suitable for this type of rose. If your site is dominated by unsuitable soil for climbing roses, then be sure to dilute it with suitable soil. Thus, sand is added to clay soil, and clay is added to sandy soil (to a depth of about 30 cm), in addition, humus or humus, as well as phosphorus additives, should be added.

All procedures for adapting the land should be carried out six months before planting roses, or at least 2 months before. Experienced gardeners recommend planting climbing roses where their brethren have not grown before. If it doesn’t work out otherwise, then before planting, you need to replace the top layer of the earth (by 50-70 cm). Ideally, climbing roses should be planted on a slight hill. The root system of these plants goes deep into the soil (up to 2 meters), so you should make sure in advance that the groundwater at the chosen place does not pass close to the top layer of soil.

If you decide to “drape” a part of the wall of the house with a climbing rose, then the distance between the bush and the wall should be at least 60 cm (and at least half a meter from other plants). Most often, climbing roses are planted in recent weeks September or in the first half of October. Thus, before the onset of serious cooling, the roots will have time to take root in a new place. With the advent of spring, all parts of the plant will enter a phase of active development and growth, and by the beginning of summer, the rose will bloom in lush color. If a climbing rose is planted in the ground in spring, then by this moment it should warm up to at least +10 ° C, catch the moment when the buds have not yet blossomed - this is important. The second half of April / the first weeks of May are the most optimal dates for spring planting.

Planting a climbing rose when spring or fall is best

I will make a reservation right away that the rules for planting seedlings in spring are not much different from autumn ones. You should be prepared for the fact that roses planted in the spring will be a little behind in development, will require you to pay more attention to your person. Compared to their autumn counterparts, they can delay flowering by about 10 days.

All the stages described, as well as subsequent care, are applied both in spring and autumn.

• So, before planting, the seedling needs to shorten the branches, up to about 20 cm in length, the roots, too, up to 30 cm.
• Dig a large hole for the roots to grow. The depth of the pit should be 60-70 cm.
• If you plant several bushes, then the distance between them should be at least 100 cm. When immersing the seedling in the soil, make sure that the root neck is also deepened by 12-15 cm - this will protect it from frost in the cold season.
• The roots are gently straightened, covered with soil, lightly compacted with your hands. Make sure that all the roots are pointing down and not bent up!
• Planting a climbing rose in the spring involves introducing nutritious soil into the hole. Approximately 3-5 kg, for example, peat compost, will please your rose.
• After planting, the soil is slightly trampled down and watered abundantly.
• It will be very good if you add a preparation with beneficial bacteria that stimulate growth, for example, Phosphobacterin, to the water for this first watering. Phytohormone "Heteroauxin" is also great.

In some cases, summer residents cover newly planted bushes with plastic wrap - this technique contributes to better adaptation of plants in a new place. It is up to you to do this or not to do it, if the weather conditions of your region push you to create greenhouse conditions for climbing roses, then do not forget to lift the film daily and gradually increase the airing time every day. After stable warm weather is established, remove the film and mulch the ground around the bushes with leaf humus, peat, chopped tree bark or straw.

How to plant a climbing rose in the spring, bought in a store?

Today at flower shops you can purchase climbing rose seedlings with an open or closed root system.

Representatives with open roots should be immediately planted in the ground. When choosing, pay attention to the presence of lignified shoots - there should be at least two of them. Such an escape must be mature (bend with a crunch), otherwise the rose may not survive the winter. The bush as a whole should look healthy, have well-developed roots, strong, without dried fragments. The length of the shoots should be at least 60-70 cm.

Varieties of climbing roses with a closed root system are sold in pots, so you will not be able to immediately assess the condition of the roots. Carefully inspect the shoots, they should look healthy, not very elongated, if they have a light green color, then it is better to refrain from buying.

The elongation of the shoots and their light shade indicate improper storage of seedlings - either in excessive heat, or when insufficient lighting. Such a rose will be weak, painful, unlikely to survive the winter.

Close attention should also be paid to the grafting sites; a properly grafted cutting should have callus tissue at the “junction” site, which promotes fusion. If the vaccination site is peeling and looks unhealthy, then you will only have problems with such a rose.

Planting a climbing rose from the store in spring, steps:

1. A rose with a closed root system is carefully removed from the pot along with an earthen clod, and then planted in the chosen place. For representatives with an open root system, remove the film from the roots, put them in water. If there are buds or shoots below the grafting site, we remove them. If there is wild growth, we also remove it, too long shoots can be pinched. Do not forget to powder the cut points with powdered charcoal or activated charcoal.
2. The roots should be in the water for 3-4 hours, so the plant will be saturated with moisture, the transport soil will become soft, it can be easily removed and the root system carefully examined. You can first add the Kornevin stimulator to the water (according to the instructions).
3. We take the roses out of the water, gently straighten the roots if possible and place the seedling in the dug hole. About what the pit should be and how to mix the soil (if the situation requires it) has already been described a little higher. Water the rose well.
4. After the water is absorbed, you can add more earth (spud). When refilling the soil, the grafting site can be covered with a layer of soil, but not more than 3 cm.
5. If the spring sun shines too brightly, do not be too lazy to cover the young bush with a paper bag or light-colored cloth - this way it is guaranteed not to burn. Such protective covering can be left for 5-7 days.

Climbing roses, care and cultivation

In heat and drought, rose bushes should be watered once every five days. After 20 days after planting, you need to carefully rake the soil from the bush. By the way, roses planted in autumn also open after winter in the first weeks of April. For this procedure, it is advisable to choose a non-solar day, so that subsequently the plant does not experience stress during the night temperature drop. Make sure that the grafting site remains buried in the soil by about 10 cm.

During the growing season, the climbing rose requires generous watering. After the appearance of the buds, as well as after the formation of the bush, the plant should be watered every 10 days. At the same time, water should penetrate to the very roots and deeper, 10-12 liters per bush will be enough. A couple of days after rain or watering, you need to loosen the soil around the rose. It can also be mulched. Both waterlogging and lack of moisture are equally harmful for roses, so follow the golden mean in this matter.

Climbing rose, photo:

How to fertilize climbing roses

Fertilizer - milestone in caring for a climbing rose, because this species quite picky about top dressing. Throughout the summer, nitrogen supplements should alternate with complex fertilizers, they are recommended to be applied every 2-3 weeks. With the onset of spring, the plant is fed with a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Agricola-Rosa (according to the instructions). After two or three weeks, you can add organics - fertilizer "Ideal" or "Flower". You can also use the old proven method - 10 liters of mullein and 3 kg wood ash diluted in 50 liters of water. It is recommended to dilute one liter of this mixture in 10 liters of water, and then pour the plant under the root with the resulting composition. From about the second week of July, you can start slowly making phosphorus and potassium supplements in order to prepare the bushes in advance for the upcoming winter. Carefully read the dosage of drugs in the instructions, remember that by overfeeding the rose with chemistry, you can simply ruin it.

Climbing rose care in the first year of planting

How does it differ from the standard requirements? From competent care in the first year of a plant's life depends on its further development and flowering splendor. When new shoots appear, the soil from the bushes is removed (the one that was used for hilling). If there are sunny days, then at first light shading with coniferous spruce branches will not hurt. After 10-12 days after the removal of the hilling soil, you can proceed to the first pruning of the central shoot. It should be shortened above the second or third sheet. A little later, with the lateral branches of the second order, you need to do a similar procedure, while the eyes “looking” inside the bush must be removed, and those eyes that are located on outside, leave for further proper formation of the shrub.

Caring for a climbing rose in the first year also involves removing the buds, no matter how strange it may sound. From the beginning of flowering until the first weeks of August, it is recommended to leave only two flowers on each branch. With the advent of autumn, these flowers will turn into boxes with seeds (fruits), and after the manipulations, your rose will bloom especially magnificently next year.

Pruning climbing roses or how to prune a climbing rose

Is a climbing rose pruned in autumn for the winter? If other types of roses can simply be spud, then the climbing one must be covered completely - this factor does not depend on your region of residence. You can choose one of the thermal insulation methods, in the first case, the ground part of the bush is removed from the support, the foliage is removed, and all weak and old shoots are cut off.

Here you will have to choose 10-12 of the strongest and healthiest branches (remaining after pruning), combine them into one bunch, rewind with twine and gently tilt to the ground. With the help of metal staples (we cut the wire into fragments and bend), the branches are fixed on the ground, and then covered with appropriate protective material. If there are several shrubs, they are located in close proximity to each other, then they can be covered with one common covering sheet. In the second case, everything happens in a similar way, only in this case the plant is not removed from the support, but is securely wrapped with protective material right on it. The base of the bush is spudded in the manner described above.

How to prune a climbing rose? This important agrotechnical care measure should be given special attention. Pruning helps to properly form the crown of the plant, contributes to a generous and long flowering positive effect on health and vitality climbing rose. Immediately after planting, all shoots are shortened by 20-30 cm; in the summer, faded buds and branches growing inside the crown (thickening it) are cut off.

Starting from the second year of the plant's life, pruning is done at the end of the flowering phase.

How to prune climbing roses after flowering? They bloom around the end of August - September (depending on the climate in the region), at which time all diseased and dead branches should be removed. The oldest shoots (we choose 1 or 2) are cut off completely, subsequently they will be successfully replaced by young basal processes. If these processes are not present, then about 40 cm from the base should be measured from the old branches, and the rest should be removed - this procedure is aimed at activating the growth of the replacement basal branches.

The remaining (not very old) shoots are cut off in the place where a new powerful growth began to form, subsequently it will act as a conductor. Short flower stalks are cut to 2 or 3 buds (about 15-17 cm from the base of the branch), weak stems are cut to 3 buds (also measured from the base). The skeleton (base) of the crown should be formed from the strongest, correctly growing shoots (evenly directed), on which young branches will then form.

How to cut a climbing rose in spring? You should pick up a pruner when buds begin to swell on the branches from below (the last weeks of April / early May), not earlier. If you start pruning too early, then during night frosts the branches may simply freeze, as a result of which the rose will bloom much later than the due date. If you miss the pruning time, then the plant will throw all its forces into the formation of new branches and foliage, and flowering will be poor.

Pruning climbing roses in the spring has one important point - removal, namely, cutting off (not cutting) wild shoots that have grown below the grafting site. Usually this situation becomes apparent after the spring opening of the bushes. Also at this time, all diseased, frozen branches are removed, all affected fragments are clearly visible in the spring, when buds swell on the “living” branches.

Transplanting a climbing rose to another place

Sometimes, due to inexperience, the gardener chooses an unfortunate place where the plant feels uncomfortable and sick. In such cases, the situation can be corrected by transplantation. The best time for this operation is autumn, September or the first weeks of October. It is not recommended to transplant later, as the rose needs time to adapt to a new place of residence before the onset of cold weather.

However, if circumstances so require, a rose transplant climbing spring to another place is also possible. As soon as the earth thaws after winter frosts, and the buds on the branches of roses have not yet had time to wake up, you can get down to business. To do this, the ground part of the plant is removed from the support, the bush itself is carefully dug (moving in a circular fashion), about 50-60 cm recede from the base of the plant. Do everything very carefully so as not to damage the root system of the rose, let better pit will be deeper than necessary, but the roots will remain safe and sound.

When transplanting, the same rules are followed as with standard planting - the roots straighten out and go down, the free space in the pit is filled with the appropriate soil mixture, the soil is lightly tamped and generously watered.

After 3-4 days, you should add earth (it will settle slightly), spud your rose.

There is one interesting nuance associated with transplanting roses - their belonging to the groups of climbers and ramblers. I will allow myself a small digression: all varieties of climbing roses can be figuratively divided into these two groups:

• climbers;
• ramblers.

Varieties of climbing climber roses are called climbers, they form rough and thick branches that can reach 3-5 m in length. Climber shoots are not very flexible; when transplanting, they must be cut to half the entire length!

Ramblers are precisely climbing roses with flexible and soft whip shoots, the length of which can reach 10 meters. Rambler roses are characterized by active growth; when transplanted, they cut off all shoots that are more than two years old. All young branches are left intact, but at the end of the calendar summer they must pinch the tops - this technique speeds up the lignification of the branches.

How to propagate a climbing rose?

There are four ways to propagate this rose: seeds, cuttings, cuttings and grafting. The most common and convenient option is cuttings. seed propagation possible only with the purchase seed in the respective store. As you know, independently harvested seeds from climbing roses growing in your country house or garden do not carry varietal characteristics of the mother plant.

Growing climbing roses from seeds

Pre-soak the seeds in 3% hydrogen peroxide for 30 minutes. Such disinfection creates a shield against the appearance of mold in the subsequent stages of growing the plant. After we remove the seeds from the solution, lay them on a thin layer of cotton wool, again impregnated with hydrogen peroxide, cover with a similar cotton layer on top, which is also impregnated with peroxide.

The resulting "sandwich" is placed in a plastic bag and hidden in the refrigerator, in the compartment for greens and vegetables. We periodically inspect the seeds, change the cotton layers to new ones (also impregnated with hydrogen peroxide).

After 40-50 days, the already germinated seed can be carefully moved into peat tablets or small plastic cups with the appropriate soil mix. Seedling cassettes are also suitable.

Young shoots should be watered as the soil dries. In order for plants to develop properly, they need to provide daily lighting for 10 hours. If you do everything right, then a couple of months after planting the seeds in tablets or cassettes, the first buds may appear on young roses. With the advent of spring, new livestock are planted in open ground.

Propagation of climbing roses by cuttings

This is the most easy way reproduction, almost always giving a 100% positive result. For cutting cuttings, already faded or still flowering branches are suitable for you, which are taken from the rose in the very middle of summer, on the 10th of July.

The cut fragment should have at least two internodes, the location of the lower cut (45º angle) should be located close to the kidney. The upper cut (smooth) is carried out at a considerable distance from the kidney.

Next, all the lower leaves are cut off from the cutting, and the upper ones are cut in half. A cutting is placed in a previously prepared container with sand or with a mixture of sand and soil, deepened by about 1-2 cm, covered with a glass jar on top and cleaned in a well-lit place.

Now you will need to periodically water the stalk (without removing the banks) and make sure that it does not fall into direct sunlight.

Reproduction of climbing roses by layering

In the spring, from the shoots growing from below, we select the most attractive one and make cuts on it, right under the buds. Next, we make a small groove bed about 10 cm wide, put a thin layer of humus on the bottom of the groove, sprinkle it on top with the same layer of soil. Now we carefully bend the shoot, put it in the groove and fix it with metal brackets. After we fill the shoot with soil, but leave the top looking out. Then, as usual, we take care of the bush, but do not forget to water and fertilize the place of the buried shoot. After a year, when spring comes, the layers can be cut off from the bush and planted on separate place like a complete plant.

Propagation of roses by grafting (budding) on ​​wild rose

A climbing rose can be grafted onto a wild rose bush - this technique is quite often used by gardeners and summer residents. The best time for this operation is the last weeks of July or the first half of August. Before budding, the wild rose should be generously watered.

Right on the root neck of the shrub, an incision is made in the bark in the form of the letter “T”, after which the edges of the bark are slightly pulled back. In this kind of "pocket" is placed a peephole cut from a climbing rose. The peephole must be separated from the rose along with the bark and a small piece of wood.

Next, we tightly press the eye to the neck of the stock and also wrap this place tightly special film for budding (freely sold in flower shops). After all the manipulations, the rosehip bush is spudded, and so that the soil rises 5 cm above the grafting site (this is the minimum). After two or three weeks, the film can be slightly loosened, and with the advent of a new spring, it is removed for good.

Climbing rose does not bloom - why?

This can also happen, at least on flower forums, gardeners often ask each other a similar question. Empirically, 7 factors were found out that affect the absence of flowers in climbing roses.

Climbing rose - diseases and pests

Rose sawfly caterpillar on a rose
Rose affected by spider mites

At the initial stage, aphids can be removed from the branches by hand, after putting on garden gloves, but as soon as they feel like a full owner, you will need the help of chemicals. Insecticides "Sharpei", "Aktara", "Inta-Vir", as well as the good old "Karbofos" are guaranteed to help you deal with this problem.

If you want to try the so-called folk methods of struggle, then grate laundry soap (1 tablespoon) and dissolve it in 1 liter of water. Irrigate rose bushes with this solution for a week, after which remove all the affected fragments - it should help.

The spider mite loves heat and drought, a silvery coating on the foliage is a sign of the presence of an intruder. Old methods of struggle with the help of thick tobacco infusion or wormwood decoction give very good results. Contact ascaricide "Neoron" is one of the the best means protecting roses from spider mite. One ml of the drug is dissolved in a liter of water, after which the bushes are irrigated. Sometimes a double treatment of roses with this preparation is enough for the tick to give up its positions. Bio-insecticide "Fitoverm" also proved to be excellent in this matter.

According to the reviews of experienced gardeners, the drug "Aktara" works great against the rose sawfly. Preparations "Aktellik" and "Phosbecid" (15 ml per 10 liters of water) also show a good result, extending not only to the sawfly, but also to other "lovers" of climbing roses.

In addition to all of the above, I would like to remind you about the spring and autumn spraying of roses with Bordeaux liquid - this is important.

Among the diseases of climbing roses, the most dangerous are: bacterial cancer, gray rot, powdery mildew, koniotirium (bark burn).

powdery mildew
bacterial cancer

There is no cure for some diseases (bacterial cancer), but taking prevention seriously minimizes the risk of disease.

Disinfection of the root system in a solution of three percent blue vitriol(before planting), removal of suspicious fragments and rapid irrigation of wound sites with the same blue vitriol are the most commonly recommended preventive measures.

Conyothyrium infestation can be detected in the spring, as soon as the protective cover is removed from the roses. In this case, you need to immediately cut off the diseased branches (with the capture of healthy fragments) and burn them. Until the moment the kidneys awaken, the plant can be treated with 3% iron sulphate, the ground around the bush must also be irrigated. The same Bordeaux liquid or the drug "Abiga-Peak" can also participate in the case, while the buds have not yet blossomed.

In principle, to combat other diseases of roses, the usual scheme works - removing the affected areas and their subsequent burning, abundant irrigation of the plant with a solution of ferrous sulfate (3%), copper sulfate (2%) or Bordeaux liquid (3%). Such sprays are often carried out in three stages (with a weekly interval), but sometimes, especially at an early stage, one treatment may be enough.

Climbing roses - photos and names of winter-hardy varieties

The dream of any gardener is to make your favorite flowers delight your eyes with lush buds for as long as possible and endure wintering. It is simply unrealistic to mention all winter-hardy and long-blooming varieties of climbing roses, but I would like to highlight some of them, briefly describe their main qualities.

Climbing rose "Iceberg"

It fully justifies its name, its snow-white buds will bloom for a very long time (until autumn) and abundantly. Rebloom - distinguishing feature of this rose, it grows quite quickly and in the shortest possible time can braid the arch or wall of the building. The plant is unpretentious, cold-resistant, the aroma is weakly expressed.

Variety "Iceberg", photo:

Climbing rose "Lavinia"

It boasts cup-shaped flowers of a rich pink hue, undemanding to care, re-blooming, aroma with light notes of nutmeg. It grows up to 3 m in height, has good immunity to most diseases of roses, blooms continuously until the first frost.

Variety "Lavinia", photo:

Variety "Polka"

It is characterized by undulating flowering, about five waves per summer. The buds are terry, apricot hue, gradually turning into a cream color. Very fond of sunlit places, has good disease resistance, can grow up to 3 m in height. This variety has powerful and spreading shoots with large thorns, the aroma is weak.

Photo of a climbing rose variety "Polka":

Climbing rose "Don Juan"

Luxurious terry rose with large (12 cm in diameter) deep red flowers. It is an excellent option for decorating the walls of buildings and any vertical supports. It grows up to 3.5 m in height, loves the sun, but also blooms in partial shade without problems. These roses can be cut to make bouquets, they are very fragrant and keep fresh for a long time.

Variety "Don Juan", photo:

Variety "Flamentants"

This rose is considered one of the most attractive climbing representatives of red. Her buds are large (8 cm in diameter), terry, multi-petal. It has increased frost resistance, powerful bushes can reach 2-3 m in height. With proper care, this variety can grow and bloom in one place for about 20 years. The aroma of the rose is very gentle, but not very pronounced.

Photo of Flamentanz roses:

Climbing rose "Handel"

The buds of this variety have a very interesting color - white-pink, with bright crimson edges and a slightly yellowish center. The buds are large, about 10 cm in diameter, the bush grows up to 2.5-3 m in height. The rose is re-blooming, disease resistance is average, black spot and ashtray should be avoided.

Variety "Handel", photo:

Variety "Bobby James"

Small-flowered representative, but the most attractive in its category. It can reach 8 m in height, disease resistant, semi-double white flowers with a yellow center (about 4.5 cm in diameter), outwardly reminiscent of cherry flowers. It has a pronounced musky aroma, during flowering the branches are simply covered with buds, so that foliage is almost invisible behind them. The buds themselves have the peculiarity of slowly opening for about 10-12 days. Spectacular and incredibly luxurious variety

Photo rose variety "Bobby James":

Climbing rose "Golden Perfume"

A re-blooming variety that blooms slowly, to the delight of gardeners. Large buds (up to 10 cm in diameter) of this rose exude a very strong aroma that can be heard even from afar. Flowers of a rich bright yellow hue will decorate the bush until the arrival of the first frost. Shoots grow up to 2-3 m in height, the foliage also looks very attractive - rich green, dense, creating a beautiful contrast with yellow flowers.

Variety "Golden Perfume", photo:

Variety "Parade"

One of the most winter-hardy re-blooming climbing roses, with large (10 cm in diameter) multi-petal buds of a juicy cherry hue or rich dark pink. Luxurious inflorescences are so large and heavy that the shoots literally bend from their weight. Blooms throughout the summer, blooms slowly, reaches 2-3.5 m in height, resistant to precipitation.

Roses of the Parade variety, photo:

Climbing rose "Schwanensee"

Another variety with increased cold resistance. The multi-petal buds of this rose have classic shape, medium size (7-9 cm in diameter) and very delicate color - white, with a creamy pink core. Schwanensee blooms until frost, slowly blooming and spreading a delicate, refined aroma. The variety is hardy, re-blooming, resistant to precipitation. The bush can reach 3 m in height.

Variety "Schwanensee", photo:

Sort "Casino"

This rose is suitable for cutting into a bouquet, has a bright fruity aroma, lemon-colored buds are most beautiful when open. Multi-petal variety, diameter double flower reaches 9-11 cm, its color is darker inside, the outer petals are paler. The bush grows up to 3-4 m in height, blooms profusely, luxuriantly, repeatedly throughout the summer.

Climbing rose variety "Casino", photo:

Of course, a climbing rose will require you to spend time and effort, but, you see, its luxurious beauty fully justifies such “sacrifices”. Follow all the above recommendations, carefully consider the choice of residence for the rose.

Do not plant it near bushes and trees with powerful roots, do not forget to feed it with appropriate fertilizers in time.

Provide her reliable support, the types of which I will tell you in the next article.

Let a climbing rose be sure to settle in your area. Planting and care in the open field, the nuances of reproduction and replanting, a rough idea of ​​​​individual varieties - you now know all this and can put my advice into practice.

The following videos will successfully complement the article:

Roses are noble ornamental plants that have been prized for centuries. They are planted in palace gardens, parks and household plots, and love for the aroma, appearance, graceful beauty, especially appreciated by women. Thanks to its many virtues, many people want to plant a garden rose. Unfortunately, the advantages they offer us come at a price.

Roses are quite demanding plants that are generously grateful for the effort and money invested in caring for them. These are exquisite plants, the richness of which tempts each of us to find our favorite variety. In the article below, we will present proven varieties, what a rose looks like, care and cultivation in the garden so that it grows healthy, beautiful.

Growing garden roses

There are many varieties of roses in the world. Their classification covers 5 groups, which differ in terms of decorative parameters:

• large-flowered;
• multicolor;
• park;
• ground cover;
• climbing.

You can also select a group of historical roses and wild ones.

Photo. Beautiful climbing roses

Photo. large-flowered roses

Choosing a place to land

First of all, you need to find out where it is better to plant roses on the site in order to provide them with the best soil and climatic conditions. More accurately optimal conditions described in the cultivation instructions for a particular variety. However, there are also general recommendations.

1. Rose loves sunny places. At the same time, it is not necessary that it be lit all day and be constantly under the scorching rays of the sun, but flowers will not bloom in the shade.
2. The soil should be well permeable, fertile, preferably sandy.
3. Plants require some space to ventilate their planting site, this will protect them from fungal diseases.
4. Because of their seasonal decorativeness, they are best paired with evergreens that will provide a presentable green backdrop.

Photo. In a sunny place, roses will bloom profusely

When is the best time to plant roses?

As you know, many plants are best planted during the dormant period. When to plant roses in autumn or spring? This plant is best planted at the turn of October and November, but before the first frost. Another optimal landing time is the end of March - the beginning of April.

You can purchase ordinary seedlings with a normal root system and with a lump of substrate, which will allow you not to damage the roots when planting. Plants bought in pots are not as demanding in terms of planting time as traditional seedlings, they can be planted even in summer.

How to plant roses?

1. We moisten the root block. At the bare root system, we cut the roots, significantly reducing them - up to 20 cm in length.
2. We are preparing a hole - you can add fertile soil.
3. We plant the plant, evenly distribute the roots, check its vertical position.
4. Gradually sprinkle the plant with earth, water it, check its location and water it again. Repeat the steps several times until the hole is filled.
5. We pour a mound that helps to keep water within reach of the roots.

How to prune roses?

Roses are best pruned in the spring, then we can assess how much damage is caused by winter frosts, if any. In addition, plants uncut before winter are better tolerated. low temperatures.

Large-flowered and multi-colored varieties should be cut at a height of 20 cm above the ground, and the remaining varieties are cut as needed - removing frozen and diseased shoots.

How to prune a rose after flowering? You can also prune after flowering, removing dried flowers to encourage new blooms.

Photo. Trimming off faded flowers enhances flowering

Care, pest and disease control

Roses require a fertile substrate - so they must be fertilized, preferably twice a year - in early spring, and again when in bloom to ensure abundant flowering. There are many fertilizers for roses on the market, which affect not only abundant flowering, but also active growth, beautiful green leaves. Healthy plants are less susceptible to disease.

Roses are most often affected by leaf rust and other fungal diseases. They are also often affected by aphids. Therefore, at the beginning of the growing season, it is advisable to spray special chemicals on them prophylactically, carefully observe and respond to any changes in the condition of the plants.

If it is a grafted variety, the rootstock, a wild rose that often appears at ground level, should be cut regularly as it can drown out the grafted part.

Growing roses in the garden, video

Preparing roses for winter

This plant is sensitive to frost, so we must take care of it in winter. Before frost, the base of the bush should be especially well protected by covering this area with bark or other material for insulation. Grafted forms on stems, or climbing roses or large bushes, can be protected with agrofibre and straw "sheaves". They are not only effective in winter, but also quite attractive.

Rose varieties

There is a huge variety of these plants. Consider the most popular varieties.

large-flowered roses

They have the highest decorative qualities. It's solitary gorgeous flowers, blooming on a straight stem. Often varieties of large-flowered roses have a wonderful aroma.

The following large-flowered varieties are also known:

• white and cream - "Pascal", "Mounte Shasta", "Papt John XXIII";
• red - "Mr. Lincoln", "Dame de Coeur" (Lady of the Heart), "Papa Mayland";
• two-color - "Kronenburg", "Neue Revue", "Die Welt";
• purple - "Blue Moon", "Charles de Gaulle";
• orange - "Flora Danica", "Ave Maria", "Lady";
• yellow - "Mir", "Casanova", "Landora".

multicolor roses

Often used in home gardens and increasingly in urban greens. Flowers less large-flowered species in size, but they are more numerous, forming massive clusters on shoots. The flowers are often fragrant, bloom very profusely and repeat bloom.

Popular varieties:

The following multi-flowered varieties are also known:

• white and creamy - "Swany", "Schneewittchen";
• red - "Pushta", "Lily Marlene", "Nina Weibull";
• orange - "Samba", "Rumba";
• pink - "Queen Elizabeth", "Kalinka", Bonica 80;
• yellow - Frisia, All Gold, Marselisborg.

ground cover roses

As the name suggests, they quickly cover the soil with shoots. This is a low, very stable group, does not freeze, does not get sick, does not require care. Roses are decorative, with abundant, slightly more subtle flowers that look very natural and charming.

Popular varieties are:

The following ground cover varieties are also known:

• white - "Snow Ballet";
• red - "Mercury 2000";
• pink - Sommerwind, Veneda;
• yellow - "Sommermond".

Ground cover roses are easier to care for, grow easily and require less attention than varieties of other groups. The plants are resistant to frost, so, unlike other garden roses, they do not need to be protected from it.

Bushes do not require heavy pruning - only diseased and damaged shoots should be removed every year in the spring - or wilted flowers should be removed (numerous coral fruits adorn the bush in autumn). In addition, they are usually more disease resistant than other varieties.

Landing. Seedlings are planted in spring or autumn in dug up soil, to which manure or compost (4-8 kg / m²) is added. You can also add fertilizer for roses (recommended by the manufacturer). Most varieties in the garden are planted at 4 pieces/m², but there are also stronger varieties that need 2 pieces/m² (for example, Max Graf, Weisse Immensee) and weaker varieties that should be planted at 5 -6 pieces / m² (for example, "Beautiful Fairy", "Fairy").

climbing roses

This group is growing faster and stronger. Climbing varieties require reliable support in the form of supports to which shoots are attached. These varieties often repeat flowering and are very fragrant.

Varieties worth noting:

The following popular climbing varieties are also known:

• white - "Snow White", "Elf";
• red - "Flammentanz", "Baikal", "Amadeus", "Dortmund";
• pink - "New Dawn", "American Pillar";
• yellow - "Golden rain", "Goldstern".

These varieties belong to the group that requires more time and patience. To get the effect of a flowering wall, sometimes you have to wait 3-4 years or even longer. Plants can climb a pergola or tree by clinging to the thorns, however, sometimes they need help in the form of a garter to a support.

Flowers at climbing varieties, as a rule, is less than in large-flowered ones, but new varieties are also characterized by rather large flowers. Assortment in Lately has expanded significantly, so it’s easy to find an option in almost any color.

Climbing varieties are less demanding on soil and relatively resistant to frost, but more vulnerable to pest damage on leaves and shoots. Climbing varieties are best planted with an existing support such as a trellis or pergola. They can also be planted in a wooden pot with a trellis, in which they will be presented in a very elegant way.

It is very important to carry out the correct and timely pruning. For varieties that bloom once a season, pruning should be done only after the shoots have faded.

Hard-shooting Ramblers, characterized by smaller flowers, are pruned every year, removing the whitened shoots and the whole mass of thin, long branches growing at the base of the bush. To speed up the growth of the bush, we can cut only half of the two-year-old shoots that will fill in the gaps. Strong pruning in lower parts bush is especially necessary for some varieties (for example, "Dorothy Perkins"), because the plants are easily attacked powdery mildew- a disease of roses that develops when the leaves remain wet for a long time.

Varieties of climbing roses that repeat bloom do not require as much pruning. It is enough to remove the oldest or too thin shoots that thicken the crown every 2 or 3 years. Frozen stems or damaged by diseases should be removed every spring.

park roses

This is the last group, which is also called cultural rose hips. These varieties are bush-shaped, characterized by high resistance and low maintenance requirements. The flowers are very attractive, in groups or solitary, usually in warm colours. Very often used on open lawns or in urban areas.

The following varieties are distinguished in this group:

The following park varieties are also known:

• white - "White Grootendorst";
• red - "Grand Hotel", "Kordes Brillant";
• pink - "Pink Grotendorst", "Rosary Yutersen";
• yellow - "Lichtkönigin Lucia", "Westerland", "Persian yellow".

Roses are one of the most noble plants. Great demands on care and planting pay off with its beautiful appearance and pleasant aroma. For centuries, they have been used in gardens, where they have become a real decoration of the landscape.

In the first year, early flowering of young plants should not be allowed. Until the beginning of August, the buds are removed from the bushes. Leave 1-2 flowers on each shoot and do not cut them off so that fruits set in the fall. Such plants ripen better and bloom more abundantly next year.

Throughout the summer, preventive treatment against pests is carried out, using the available preparations according to the instructions.

Shelter of young bushes for the winter is carried out when sub-zero temperatures begin. It is recommended to cover the bushes completely, using coniferous paws. In spring, young bushes open first, and then older ones.

Caring for roses from previous plantings

Plantings from previous years usually bloom several times over the entire growing season. After each flowering, part of the shoots is cut off, ensuring the next flowering.

The soil to a depth of 10 cm is loosened twice a month, providing access to oxygen to the roots. Twice a season, they also dig up the site itself, to a depth of up to 25 cm. The first time this is done after the opening of roses, the second - at the end of August.

Watering roses is necessary regular and plentiful, in hot weather - weekly. It is especially important during the period of growth and during the period of bud formation. The earth circle near the bushes is watered, and the next day loosening is carried out.

Top dressing is carried out regularly, making organic and mineral fertilizers. The same composition is used as for young plantings, however, humus is used instead of mullein and 10 mg of potash and phosphorus fertilizers are added.

rose pruning

Pruning is a very important procedure in the life of roses. It stimulates the growth of young shoots, renews the plant, prevents the absorption of nutrients by old weak shoots, and allows you to form a beautiful and healthy bush. Properly and timely pruned, roses can bloom for up to 25 years or more.

On the different stages development of bushes, pruning is carried out weak, medium and strong. Weak accelerates flowering, with it only the top of the shoot is removed. With an average, 5-7 kidneys are left, with a strong one - 2-3. To carry out pruning, you need a good secateurs, which make a cut at an acute angle 1 cm above the eye.

Primary pruning is carried out in early spring, as soon as the snow melts. Remove and burn all dead shoots. The next, more thorough, is done after opening the bushes and awakening the kidneys.

In polyanthus roses, pruning is done immediately strong, this stimulates the continuous flowering of these varieties. In remontant roses, annually a third of the shoots are pruned strongly, and two-thirds are weakly pruned. In climbing - remove damaged shoots and part of last year's faded ones. Young, not flowering, can not be cut, they will bloom next year.

After flowering on roses, all wilted and beginning to fade flowers are removed, cutting them off with part of the shoot to the second eye. Summer pruning eliminates the formation of fruits, and new buds quickly grow and give the next wave of flowering.

The last pruning is carried out in the second half of August, leaving several buds on each bush. This helps the plant better prepare for winter.

Simultaneously with pruning, it is necessary to regularly remove wild growth, which weakens the plant and can later cause the death of the cultivated part of the bush. Wild shoots are removed at the very base.

Rose breeding

There is a vegetative method of reproduction, and seed. Almost all garden varieties are propagated vegetatively, and wild species and hybrids are propagated by seeds.

After budding, there is a more powerful growth of bushes, high frost resistance, and drought resistance. However, the process is time-consuming, lengthy and less suitable for beginner flower growers. Standard seedlings can be obtained only in the third year.

Cuttings require less labor, flowering is obtained already in the second year, there is no need to grow a stock. However, when propagated by cuttings, roses are more sensitive to adverse conditions.

Budding can be done from late April to mid-September. The area where the stock grows (most often rose hips) is watered abundantly a week before the work, so that the bark begins to peel off easily at the rootstock. Then the rootstock cuttings are cut out from the middle part of the faded shoots of roses, the leaves are removed from them, leaving the petioles.

BY THE WAY!

Cuttings can be prepared 1-2 days before budding and kept in a damp and cool place. Eyes from such cuttings take root better. For spring budding, cuttings are most often harvested in autumn and stored in wet sand at a temperature of +1...2°C.

The eye for budding is cut off with a bark shield up to 1.5 cm long. The petiole is preserved, since it is more convenient to insert the eye under the bark with it.

Before the start of budding, the root collar is opened near the base of the bush, the bark is rubbed, a T-shaped incision is made on the root collar and a cultural eye is inserted into it. Then the place of budding is tightly tied. The rootstock is spudded with earth and 2 weeks are waiting for the fusion of the eye and the rootstock.

In the spring of next year, the aerial part of the rootstock 1 cm above the place of budding is cut off in order to direct nutrients to the developing eye. Further care- as for annual plants.

Cuttings are usually carried out after the first flowering, within a month, starting from the second decade of July. Only faded and lignified shoots are taken for cuttings. The cuttings are cut from the middle part of the annual shoot, keeping at least 2 eyes per cutting. The lower cut is made 1 cm below the kidney, and the upper one is above the kidney. Cuttings are immediately planted in the ground under cover.

The soil in the lower part consists of horse manure, then comes a layer of soddy soil, and in the upper part - river sand. The cuttings are planted at an angle of 60 °, deepening by a third. The distance in the rows is 5-6 cm. Between the rows is 7-8 cm. The temperature for rooting is required at least + 24 ° C, humidity - up to 90%. A day later, the cuttings are opened and sprayed with water. Rooting usually occurs after 3 weeks. Before frost, cuttings with young leaves are covered with dry foliage with a layer of up to 30 cm, and a layer of spruce branches. In the spring they are planted in a permanent place.

standard roses

These are very showy plants in the form of small trees strewn with beautiful flowers. Rosehip varieties such as canina and rugosa are used as rootstock for standard roses. The fruits, which ripen at the end of August, are harvested in the state of the beginning of reddening of the shell. Such fruits germinate faster. Before sowing, rosehip seeds are mixed with pitch and kept wet for 2 weeks. In September, they are sown in the ground, watered and mulched with peat.

In dry autumn, watering is carried out 2-3 times with breaks of 5-6 days. Shoots will appear in May next year .. In the second decade of June, they dive according to the scheme 40 × 80 cm. organic fertilizer, 2-3 times during the growing season. In autumn, all shoots are cut at the base, leaving 1-2 of the strongest. The next vegetative season, the trunk itself is already grown, regularly removing root shoots and all awakened buds on the bottom of the left shoots.

well developed root system allows boles to grow up to 1.5 m by July. During this period, budding begins, using 2-3 eyes for grafting. They are grafted on both sides of the shoot, at a distance of 3-4 cm from each other. Above the grafted eyes, 1-2 shortened lateral shoots are left, the rest are removed. If there are eyes and shoots below the budding site, they must also be removed, wrap the budding site with plastic wrap. The bandage is removed after 2 weeks, when the eyes take root. Shoots or buds above the place of budding are removed. For grafting, varieties of cultivated roses with large fragrant flowers are used.

Winter shelter of roses

In the second half of August, watering, loosening and pruning are stopped. Roses begin to cover when the temperature drops to + 3 ° C. A traditional and reliable shelter is considered to be spruce branches, a layer of soil and wooden shields.

Combined shelter - needles and earth, is considered the most reliable. The earth does not stick to the shoots, an air space is formed between the plant and the earth layer, which makes it possible to better preserve the bush.

BY THE WAY!

Young plants, both remontants and climbers, are completely covered in order to preserve ground shoots as much as possible.

Curly roses are removed from the supports, twisted into rings, laid on coniferous branches and covered with spruce branches. Later they are sprinkled with a layer of earth and snow. On standard roses, leaves are removed before shelter, all unripened and damaged shoots are cut off, then carefully bent at an angle of up to 50 ° and fixed for 4-5 days. Then they pour a hill of earth, lay a crown on it and cover it with spruce branches.

With the onset of spring winter shelter removed, doing it in stages. First - in order to increase the access of air, and then the earth with which the bushes are piled up is completely removed. Coniferous spruce branches are recommended to be left for 8-10 days, and if the spring is early and hot, then before the onset of cloudy weather. It is better to open roses in the evening.

1. I prepare the soil fertile, light, consisting of compost, rotted manure, black peat and garden soil - in equal proportions. I mix everything in the landing pit. I fall asleep the seedling with the same mixture.
2. I immediately shade the planted roses (if the weather is sunny), in the spring too.
3. I mulch the soil after planting so that it is always moist at the roots. This is especially true for summer residents who rarely come to their site.
4. After a couple of weeks, roses can be sprayed with a bio-cocktail (a mix of biological products), Zircon solutions, HB-101 (according to instructions) But you need to use one thing, and not all at once. Repeat the procedure after two weeks.
5. If it was not possible to prepare the soil well, next season the plant will need to be fed regularly. To do this, you can use "Fertika" with a humate content, "Zircon", "Planto-fol" (NPK = 20:20:20, but it is desirable to reduce the dose). No need to feed roses from the second half of July with nitrogen fertilizers.
6. The buds formed by the first years in June, I remove all or partly. For example, if a bush is up to 25 cm high, it is better to cut them off at the pea stage - pinch them over the first leaf. If the rosette is higher than 25 cm, you can leave two or three ovaries and let it flourish. If the rosette grows buds in July, I cut them off to the first leaf.

ON A NOTE

Sometimes, when I arrive at the dacha, I find that the baby has already formed 10 buds. I cut off half (those that have not burst yet). The rest can be cut off later, during flowering - above the first or second leaf. Or remove the entire blooming brush (if the rose is a spray bloom type) above the first leaf. After pruning, the rose will sprout shoots from the vaccine, which will form beautiful bush for the first year and beyond.

1. After pruning, it is necessary to feed the bush with Plantofol fertilizer, reducing the recommended dose by half, or Fertika (according to the instructions), so that the rose can grow both roots and stems, and also lay buds by August (in the middle lane). New flowering is necessary for a good maturation of the stems before wintering.
2. In August, I don’t cut the rose, as I do at the end of June-July, I just remove the faded “heads” (sometimes I leave them too if the plant does not grow seeds, like a dog rose). Even if the rose has faded early, I do not advise cutting off the faded brushes. In this case, the stems ripen better.
3. In the second half of summer, I feed the rose with potassium sulfate, also with a half dose, since the shoots are thin and the root system is still weak. Better to do it again in September.

Before sheltering for the winter on young roses, I cut only the leaves, tie the stems with twine and bend down.