Spring protection of garden plants from pests and diseases. How to care for home chrysanthemum in a pot Is it possible to grow outdoor chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum is a beautiful flower that strikes with an abundance of color and a variety of colors. Florists from year to year are trying to bring out more and more new varieties of this representative of chamomile. Indoor chrysanthemums are very unpretentious in their care and are increasingly becoming the main decoration of houses.

Did you know?After buying a chrysanthemum, it is better to send it to "quarantine" and protect it from the rest indoor plants for 2-3 weeks.

Most often, it is difficult for beginner flower growers to grow a chrysanthemum on their own, while maintaining its decorative appearance.

In this article, we will talk about the features of caring for room chrysanthemum and how to properly grow a plant and transplant it so that the chrysanthemum will delight you with its beautiful decorative look.

Features of care for indoor chrysanthemums

Indoor chrysanthemum - the plant is quite unpretentious and there should be no problems caring for it. At proper care for room chrysanthemum at home, flowering will begin in 2.5-3 months (provided that you bought a non-flowering plant).

Proper care of the chrysanthemum also includes regular feeding of the plant, which will ensure its active and abundant growth.

Important!In order to get a beautiful lush bush correct form, blooming profusely and with a dense green mass, you can use preparations that "inhibit" the growth of the stem, and the growth of flowers and green mass is activated.

In order for the chrysanthemum to please you with its appearance, it is necessary to maintain the temperature, as well as follow the rules of lighting and watering. In order for your flower not to lose its aesthetics, it is necessary to carry out preventive measures correctly.

How to choose the location of the flower

Indoor flowers (and chrysanthemums are no exception) require care. Caring for them starts with choosing the right place to grow them. Western or eastern windows are best suited.

The south side will not work - direct sunlight can burn the leaves of the flower, and if the plant lives on the north window, the buds can freeze slightly and will not open in the spring.

Lighting Requirements

Chrysanthemum loves lighting, but direct sunlight can harm her. It is best to put the chrysanthemum on a well-lit balcony and, if it is too hot outside, the flower should be shaded.

Temperature and humidity for a flower

In questions about how to care for indoor chrysanthemums, the question of the temperature at which you need to keep the flower comes to the fore. In order for the temperature for chrysanthemum to be favorable, it must be observed depending on the season.

In summer, a temperature of 20-23 degrees is quite suitable for a flower, but closer to winter, the temperature must be lowered - 15-18 degrees in autumn and 3-8 ° C in winter.

Did you know?In order for the chrysanthemum to endure the heat more easily and feel good in dry air, it can be placed in a ventilated place or for a while in a draft.

If the chrysanthemum stands near a heater or convector, the air is naturally dry and additional moisture will be needed - you can put a container of water next to the pot.

How to plant in a pot, soil requirements and planting scheme

Before you start planting chrysanthemums, you need to figure out what kind of land is needed for room chrysanthemum. The best substrate for growing is a substrate consisting of garden or sod land, peat and humus or any other organic fertilizer.

Important!Before planting a chrysanthemum in the substrate, it is necessary to disinfect the soil by treating it with boiling water. After such treatment, it is necessary to dry the soil to a loose consistency, or you can steam the earth in the oven - this will help get rid of pests living in damp soil.

It is also necessary to prepare planting material, most often it is cut from mother plant with a sharp knife. Plant the prepared cuttings in a large container so that their root system develops well and the flower grows stronger.

At the bottom of such a container, it is better to make a couple of holes for drainage and put the pot in a pan. Cuttings need to be dug into the ground a little. Water moderately, but infrequently, observing the degree of drying of the soil.

The first roots will appear in 20-25 days and that's when they can be planted in flower pot with the same substrate. To do this, the material is carefully transplanted together with a clod of earth into a pot in which the plant will be constantly.

Care rules

In order for the chrysanthemum to feel good in the room, it must be properly watered and provide good humidity in the room.

One of the most important components in growing chrysanthemums at home is their top dressing, because the soil cannot always be saturated with a sufficient amount of vitamins and minerals.

As for pruning, this is a necessary measure not only for the formation of a bush, but also for the prevention of diseases.

How to water and spray

Chrysanthemum loves good moisture, but the substrate should not be wet. It is better to water the flower with warm, settled water as soon as you notice the drying of the topsoil.

During the most active growth (vegetation period), the chrysanthemum must be watered more actively, but water should not be allowed to stagnate in the root system.

Spraying procedure is not the most important element, however, it should not be forgotten. It is better to spray the plant early in the morning or in the evening, at dusk. You can spray warm water containing no chlorine.

Did you know?Spraying will save your plant not only from drought, but will also be a good prevention of possible diseases.

Spraying is also necessary if the chrysanthemum is next to the heater.

If you notice the first signs of pests or diseases, you can add drugs (fungicides or insecticides) to the spray water, you can also spray it with soapy water.

Features of feeding room chrysanthemum

The root system of chrysanthemum grows very quickly, and over time those nutrients contained in the soil becomes insufficient. At such moments, the chrysanthemum needs to be recharged.

Important!You can feed chrysanthemum only before the formation of buds.

In order for the plant to please you with abundant and timely flowering, it is fed with mineral fertilizers. For this, a solution of potassium monophosphate (diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10) or a fertilizer containing 1 part of nitrogen, 3 parts of phosphorus and 2 parts of potassium is suitable.

Top dressing is carried out every 10 days during the period of the most active growth, but if you notice that the soil is weakened, you can feed it with liquid organic matter and repeat this procedure after 4 days. Mullein is suitable for this, but it is better to use chicken manure.

pruning

Chrysanthemum is pruned after flowering to form a bush and remove diseased shoots. It is best to do this with a sharp, disinfected secateurs and in no case break off the branches.

Surely there is no person in the world who would not know about the existence of such a beautiful flower as chrysanthemum. Most often it can be found in various beautiful bouquets. However, you can also have a chrysanthemum in a pot.

In this case, the plant can be safely grown both at home and in the garden. Many people believe that this flower is very capricious, but in fact it is not. If you know how to care for a chrysanthemum in a pot, you can enjoy beautiful flowers for a long time. However, first you should learn a little more about this beauty.

General classification

Small-flowered chrysanthemums are called flowers, in which the inflorescences do not exceed 80 mm. If we are talking about large-flowered plants, then these parameters will be much larger.

Plants are also distinguished by the shape of their inflorescences. The flower can be pompon, two-row, double, semi-double. Sometimes chrysanthemums are called simply spherical. In this case, we are talking about several varieties at once.

Also, a chrysanthemum in a pot may differ in the period when it begins to bloom. Some plants enter this phase early, others ripen a little later, and others delight with beautiful inflorescences later than everyone else. It is recommended to pay attention to this classification for those who plan in a pot by collecting and germinating seeds. In this case, you should not buy a late-flowering variety. This is due to the fact that the seed material simply does not have time to ripen, respectively, such seeds simply will not germinate.

If we talk about the height of plants, then they are border and medium. In the first case, flowers grow up to 30 cm, the second category can reach up to 50 cm.

These are the main distinctive features types of home chrysanthemum in a pot. How to care for an unusual plant? Let's consider this question in detail.

soil and pot

First of all, you need to think about the preparation of the soil. If the flower was brought from a specialized nursery, then for some time the beauty can be left in the "factory" substrate. You can replace the soil after the chrysanthemum blooms for the first time.

In this case, you will need to choose a larger pot. It is best to give preference to ceramic products. In order for the chrysanthemum in a pot to feel good at home, it is necessary to pour a little expanded clay or pebbles on the bottom of the selected container. This drainage layer will help prevent root rot of the plant.

If the soil is bought in a store, then it is better to give preference to compositions prepared specifically for flowering plants. However, it is best to prepare the substrate yourself. To do this, you need to mix two parts of the turf, 1 share of leafy soil and one part of humus and coarse sand.

You can also add a little chicken manure to the soil, as the chrysanthemum loves this top dressing very much. However, you should not oxidize the soil too much.

Also, during the care, a chrysanthemum in a pot needs periodic loosening of the earth. However, digging it too deep is not worth it.

Transfer

When leaving a chrysanthemum in a pot at home, it periodically needs this procedure, which is carried out annually when it comes to young plant. When the flower reaches maturity, transplantation can be done every two years.

The main condition of this procedure is that it is necessary to replace all the soil, but its composition should not change. It is better to choose a new container for a plant 2-3 larger in diameter. The volume of the pot increases by about one and a half liters.

If we talk about the transplant procedure itself, then everyone can handle it. First you need to remove the plant from the old pot along with a clod of earth on the rhizome. In this case, you should try not to damage the delicate roots of the flower.

After that, the chrysanthemum can be placed in a new container and gently compact the soil. After that, the chrysanthemum in a pot is well watered and set in its rightful place. At first, she may look a little tired, but this is due to the fact that she is getting used to her new environment.

Terms

If we talk about chrysanthemums, then they do not differ in great thermophilicity. It is best to maintain the temperature regime within +12 ... +18 degrees. If the room is more than 23 degrees, the plant will feel bad and stop blooming. Therefore, in winter, a chrysanthemum in a pot does not need special warming. Also, do not keep the flower too close to the radiator.

If the rest of the time the room is too hot, it is better to move the plant to the balcony. Only under normal temperature conditions will the plant feel comfortable and will soon bloom.

The first signs of the wrong temperature is that the foliage of the flower quickly dries up and falls off.

It is also necessary to monitor the level of humidity. It is best to carry out periodic spraying with water. It is also recommended to install a bowl of water next to the plant. But pouring liquid into the pan of the pot is not worth it. In this case, the rhizome of the plant will constantly be in a humid environment, which will lead to the death of an unusual flower.

If we talk about lighting, then in this case it is worth making sure that the plant receives the necessary amount of lighting. However, direct sunlight should be avoided. They can burn sensitive petals and chrysanthemum inflorescences.

It is also important to observe the correct length of daylight hours. As a rule, if we are talking about potted chrysanthemums, care should be taken with care when it comes to daylight hours. In this case, sunlight should feed the beauty for 6-8 hours. In this case, it is better to give preference to diffused light, however, you should not place the vessel with the flower too far from the light, this can lead to negative consequences for a sensitive plant.

Proper feeding and watering

It should be borne in mind that homemade chrysanthemums in pots are demanding on water. However, too zealous waterlogging can lead to fungal diseases and adversely affect the condition of the root system. To avoid these negative consequences, it is necessary to ensure that high-quality drainage is installed in the pot. In this case, you need to monitor the pallet. As soon as moisture accumulates in it, it must be removed immediately. Otherwise, the roots will start to rot.

For the full growth of chrysanthemum, it is necessary to add water at least 1-2 times in 7 days. In this case, the soil should not be allowed to dry out. It is best to defend the water before watering. If we are talking about plumbing, then in this case it is necessary to think about cleaning the liquid. The water temperature should be at room temperature. If it is too cold or hot, it can cause plant diseases.

You also need to consider that chrysanthemum foliage has a predisposition to dehydration. To avoid such consequences, it is recommended to spray periodically. It is also important to keep the leaves clean. To do this, they can be periodically wiped from dust. In addition, the owners of the terry beauty must remove all dried leaves in a timely manner.

If speak about proper feeding homemade chrysanthemums in a pot, then in this case you can use top dressing, which are sold in ready-made. As a rule, they are concentrated solutions that must be diluted with water. Therefore, before use, you need to carefully study the instructions. Such fertilizers are usually applied 1-2 times in 10 days.

Bush formation

Looking at a photo of a chrysanthemum in pots, many wonder why the plant standing in the kitchen does not look as neat.

This is usually explained by the fact that experienced growers periodically pinch the young shoots of the plant. As a rule, this is done at a distance of 10-15 cm, but it all depends on the specific flower variety. If you do not take time to form a flower, then this can lead to the formation of a single tall stem, on which sparse flowers will be located.

Also, many are interested in the process of reproduction of this unusual plant. There are three options for this procedure.

budding

As a rule, after the chrysanthemum is at rest, it begins to actively generate new shoots. They need to be carefully separated from the main bush and planted in separate pots. Thanks to this method, about 5-6 new seedlings can be obtained from one plant. The transplantation process uses the same methods that were described earlier. With proper care, after 6 months you can expect the first flowers.

cuttings

Chrysanthemums reproduce excellently in this way as well. However, it should be borne in mind that the success of the procedure in this case is much lower.

To get even more unusual flowers, you need to separate a few lateral stems that look the most powerful. After that, the original cuttings are cut to a length of 10-12 cm and lowered into moist soil until the first shoots appear.

To speed up this process, you need to cover the pot with a new seedling with cellophane to create a greenhouse effect. At the next stage, the container with the young seedling is removed to a warm place. At the same time, it must be regularly aired and watered. When new shoots appear, you can move the plant to a sunny place.

Growing from seeds

The the way is fine for those who are willing to wait a little longer than in the previous methods. In this case, the seeds of a mature plant are collected after it has bloomed. At the next stage, it is necessary to lay the seed material in the soil and cover it with 1 cm river sand. After that, the container should be covered with a film and placed in a fairly cool place. After a few weeks, the first shoots should appear on the surface. After that, the container can be transferred to a lighted place.

How to care after flowering

As a rule, an amazing plant blooms for about several months. When this period comes to an end and there are practically no new buds left on the chrysanthemum, and the stems diverge slightly to the sides, this is a sign that the time has come to rest.

In this case, it is necessary to cut the branches to the very base. After that, the earth must be thoroughly shed and the chrysanthemum moved to a cooler zone. At the same time, do not cover the pot so as not to provoke the appearance of fungal formations.

If the plant is at rest, then you should not water it excessively. As a rule, this state lasts until spring. With the onset of the first warm days, you can move the plant to its usual place and continue standard care.

Diseases and pests

Also, the chrysanthemum can suffer from powdery mildew. This fungus usually appears as a grayish bloom on the foliage. To get rid of this problem, treatment with a fungicide is necessary. It is also better to move the plant away from other crops.

Possible problems

Most often, the owners of these plants are faced with the fact that they wither. In this case, there can be a huge number of reasons. First of all, it is worth checking the bush for the presence of pests and diseases. In some situations, improper care leads to such problems.

If the chrysanthemum does not bloom, then first of all it should be borne in mind that this usually happens in the autumn. It all depends on the characteristics of the variety.

Finally

Chrysanthemum is an amazing plant. With proper care, it will always delight with long flowering. However, it must be borne in mind that, like any indoor beauty, she needs attention.

In late summer or early autumn in flower shops and outlets colorful pots with chrysanthemums appear. Many people mistakenly think that these are annuals that can be thrown into the trash in winter. However, these bushes, with proper care, will delight in flowering for more than one year.

Indoor chrysanthemums - types

Among this riot of colors, at first you can’t make out that all the pots differ from each other: the size and shape of the buds, the leaves and the type of crown. There are four types, among which indoor chrysanthemum flowers are divided into:

Chinese indoor chrysanthemum related to hybrids with simple large double flowers, the plant is tall and grows up to 130 cm;
came to us from the Canary Islands shrub species, it grows up to a meter in height, in warm regions it can be grown in open ground;
record holder for the number in our markets - indian look, since he feels better than others on window sills and balconies;
bright balls - representatives Korean look they are in high demand.

How to care for room chrysanthemum?

Proper care is the key to flowering bush. It starts from the first days after purchase and continues even after flowering. Sometimes there is an opinion that caring for a room chrysanthemum is difficult and there is no guarantee of flowering for the next season. However, in many ways, flower growers themselves are to blame, because they are trying to care for chrysanthemums in the same way as for ordinary green plants on the windowsill.

Primer for room chrysanthemum

Land for room chrysanthemum is not something difficult or rare on sale. Perfect soil for flowering indoor plants, it is universal for all types of chrysanthemums. It is important to feed the plant for good growth and flowering. Indoor chrysanthemum loves chicken manure as a top dressing, you need to add it in doses, otherwise the soil will be too acidic. For plant safety, the ground is always pierced in the oven. If the task is to get the maximum result, you can mix the ingredients yourself:

two parts of sod land;
part of deciduous;
part of the humus;
part of the sand, but with a large grain.

Pot for room chrysanthemum

You can look after a new flowerpot for your green pet only for the next season:

How to care for room chrysanthemum after purchase?

Any living creature after a change of place needs time to adapt and get used to it. On the other hand, such plants in stores are special treatment, and the soil in the pot will be transport. You can save the flower, for this there are quite simple recommendations, caring for room chrysanthemum after purchase is as follows:

Indoor chrysanthemum - flowering

We buy flowering bushes so that the bright colors of the buds decorate the windowsill. However, making the bush bloom is not so easy. Often this is the result of improper care. It also happens that a room chrysanthemum bush needs to be helped to bloom, care at home needs to be corrected:

the plant will bloom only at temperatures above 18 ° C, the bush does not feel well in extreme heat;
the flowering period will prolong the correct watering, when it is possible to maintain a balance and prevent the soil from drying out, in the morning and in the evening do not forget about spraying with water;
you can’t fertilize the ground before or after flowering, we feed the indoor chrysanthemum only after the buds open - poor soil and little top dressing common cause lack of flowering;
potash and phosphate fertilizers have a beneficial effect on the appearance of buds;
if you don’t pinch the shoots in time, the bush will stand green and lush, but without buds (you won’t be able to correct the situation, so you can’t forget about the formation of shoots);
when the daylight hours are less than seven hours, the plant will not have enough strength to bloom, it is important to provide enough light and heat.

Indoor chrysanthemum - care after flowering

A dormant period is a prerequisite for the further life of any plant. But it is not enough to cut faded buds from the shoots; competent wintering will help prolong the life of the flower. When your indoor chrysanthemum has faded, there are four possible solutions for what to do next:

How to propagate indoor chrysanthemum?

When your chrysanthemum has grown stronger and has given young shoots, it can be propagated. There are several ways how indoor chrysanthemum reproduces:

Transplanting room chrysanthemum

Young plants require a new flowerpot every season. Adult plants feel quite comfortable in the same flowerpot for two years in a row. Before transplanting indoor chrysanthemum, it should be prepared. We replace the soil completely, but we keep the recipe for its composition. Each subsequent flowerpot should be one and a half liters more, and a couple of centimeters wider. The algorithm of actions is no different from planting young plants: do not forget about the drainage layer, slightly compact the soil at the roots.

How to cut indoor chrysanthemum?

In addition to pruning after flowering, pruning is used to form a bush. In the question of how to care for indoor chrysanthemums in a pot, this moment is not the last:

the beginning of pruning for formation falls on the fifteenth day after planting the plant in a pot;
a piece with several leaves is cut off from a stem about 12 cm long;
then start;
after another two weeks, new shoots can be found in the sinuses.

How to water indoor chrysanthemum?

One of the difficulties for the gardener is watering indoor chrysanthemums. Here you will have to constantly maintain a balance between wet and wet soil. The classic solution with a saucer or a tray of water will not work either, this will lead to rotting of the roots. Varieties that can be grown in a pot were originally garden ones - we do not neglect spraying, we carry out the procedure only in the morning.

Diseases of room chrysanthemum

Among fungal diseases, verticillium wilt can be called frequent. This is one of the reasons why room chrysanthemum leaves dry. Of these fungal diseases, you should be afraid and, and septoria does not deliver less problems. Among viral ailments, aspermia, dwarfism, ring spot and mosaic threaten the chrysanthemum.

Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in the open ground by the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended for keeping indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and the entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If outdoor chrysanthemum is kept indoors, its leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum Indian

In nature, this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms 20-25 cm high. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that feel good in the room, are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is particularly attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

"Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with big amount large yellow inflorescences.
"Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
"Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buying a plant flower shop or receive as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or plastic windowsill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to reduce air temperature.
Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the flower stalks will ensure the flow of nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as before on the window sill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and the formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
Fill transparent Plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually when seed propagation chrysanthemum varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust, powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.

Flowers chrysanthemums (lat. Chrysanthemum) belong to the genus of herbaceous annuals and perennials of the Asteraceae family, or Asteraceae. The genus includes about 30 species, whose representatives grow in areas with cool and temperate climate and mostly in Asia. In garden culture, chrysanthemum has been known for over a thousand years, and the plant came to Europe in the 17th century. Many chrysanthemums can be grown outdoors, but there are species that grow well in greenhouses and at home.

Planting and caring for chrysanthemum (in brief)

Bloom: usually in autumn or winter.
Lighting: bright diffused light - western or eastern window sills.
Temperature: in summer - 20-23 ˚C in autumn and spring - 15-18 ˚C, in winter - 3-8 ˚C.
Watering: during the period of active growth - at least 2 times a week: the substrate in the pot should be slightly damp all the time.
Air humidity: recommended morning and evening spraying from a spray bottle.
Top dressing: during the period of active growth, adult chrysanthemum is fed with mineral fertilizers every 10 days. When fertilizing with organic solutions in a weak concentration, intervals of 4 days are observed. With the beginning of the formation of buds, feeding is stopped.
rest period: after flowering is complete, cut off the shoots and place the pot in a dark, cool place with a temperature of 2-3 ˚C until spring, when the plant begins to produce new shoots.
Transfer: young plants - annually at the beginning of active growth. Adult plants are transplanted once every 2-3 years.
Reproduction: cuttings, dividing the bush, rarely - seeds.
Pests: aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits.
Diseases: affected by powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Read more about growing chrysanthemums below.

Home flower chrysanthemum - features

Home chrysanthemum is not large in size, because it is grown by artificially stopping growth with specially designed preparations. Although there have been cases that a garden-sized plant was obtained from an acquired cutting of a home chrysanthemum.

Usually indoor chrysanthemum is a low-growing variety of mulberry chrysanthemum, or Chinese, which are abundantly flowering bushes from 15 to 70 cm high. Their flowers can be small, up to 2.5 cm in diameter, or large - up to 5 cm in diameter, moreover the same varieties of home chrysanthemums differ in the shape of the flowers. In addition to Chinese chrysanthemum, varieties of Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in home culture.

Chrysanthemum blooms at home usually in autumn and winter, but in order for its flowering to last as long as possible, it should be created for the plant optimal conditions and follow certain rules of care.

Chrysanthemum care at home

How to care for chrysanthemums

What conditions of detention does a home chrysanthemum require? How to care for chrysanthemum in the apartment? Firstly, it is necessary to establish a temperature regime that is comfortable for her, secondly, to observe the required level of illumination, and thirdly, to maintain the optimal water balance for the flower.

It is difficult to call a chrysanthemum a heat-loving plant, so in summer it feels best at a temperature of 20-23 ºC, in the autumn-spring period - at 15-18 ºC, and in winter at 3-8 ºC. It is in compliance with this temperature regime many buds are tied, and the flowering of chrysanthemum is long and plentiful.

As for lighting, growing chrysanthemums in a pot is carried out on the windowsills of windows oriented to the east or west, since flowers on the southern windows can wither from excess sun, and on the northern ones they bloom poorly. But chrysanthemums in pots feel best on cool, but well-lit verandas, balconies and loggias, and with the onset of real heat, it is advisable to take the chrysanthemum out into the yard.

During the period of active growth, you will need to pinch and trim the chrysanthemum to form a dense and lush bush. In addition, it is necessary to regularly remove wilted inflorescences and yellowed leaves.

Watering chrysanthemums

Successful cultivation of chrysanthemums requires first of all proper watering. Chrysanthemum is moisture-loving, so the soil in its pot should be slightly damp all the time. Caring for a chrysanthemum at home involves moistening the soil during the period of active growth at least twice a week. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out, but you should also not allow excess moisture in the pot and pan.

In the hot season, it is advisable to spray the chrysanthemum in the morning or in the evening from a spray bottle. This is not to say that the flower needs spraying so badly, but this procedure refreshes the plant and adds to its attractiveness.

Chrysanthemum transplant

Caring for homemade chrysanthemum in pots involves the annual transplantation of young plants into a large container. Adult chrysanthemums, if necessary, can be transplanted once every two to three years. As a substrate, you can use a mixture of ordinary garden soil, turf, humus and white sand in a ratio of 4:4:1:1, and in order for the chrysanthemum to bloom abundantly, a little bird droppings should be added to the soil mixture. Do not plant chrysanthemum in acidic soil, she does not like it. Before filling new pot soil mixture, a layer of drainage should be put in it, and the substrate should be shed with boiling water and dried.

Top dressing of chrysanthemums

Caring for home chrysanthemum requires fertilizing the substrate. The plant responds well to complex mineral supplements because potassium and phosphorus stimulate flowering. In order for the plant to bloom as early as possible, it is fed with a solution of potassium monophosphate in a ratio of 1:10 or any other complex fertilizer in which the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium will be 1:3:2. Chrysanthemum also responds well to liquid organic matter. An adult flower requires mineral fertilizers to be applied to the soil every 10 days, and a mullein solution (1 part of fertilizer dissolved in 10 liters of water) should be applied at intervals of 4 days. Feed the chrysanthemum up to the beginning of the formation of buds.

Chrysanthemum care after flowering

As soon as the chrysanthemum fades, it must be put into a dormant state. Cut off its shoots and place the plant pot in the cellar, where the chrysanthemum will wait for spring at a temperature of +2 to -3 ºC. As soon as the chrysanthemum begins to produce new shoots, it will need to be transplanted into a large container and returned to its previous conditions.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in the apartment

Reproduction of chrysanthemum cuttings

The easiest way to propagate homemade chrysanthemum is with green non-lignified cuttings. Cut from branches as cuttings side shoots about 10 cm long, remove the leaves from their lower part and then put the cuttings in water so that they grow roots. As soon as the length of the roots reaches 4-5 cm, they are planted several times in pots with a drainage layer and a substrate of a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction, the soil is compacted around them and watered. In order to stimulate the growth of side shoots, pinch the tops of the cuttings.

You can plant cuttings directly into the ground, bypassing the stage of growing roots in water, but in this case you need to cover the pot with cuttings with a plastic cap to create a greenhouse effect. The cap is removed daily for a while for ventilation and condensate is removed from it. As soon as the leaves of the cuttings restore turgor, and this is a sure sign that rooting has occurred, the cap can be removed.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by dividing the bush

During the next chrysanthemum transplant, it can be propagated by dividing the bush. The bush is taken out of the pot, carefully released root system from the soil, wash and divide the plant with a sterile instrument so that each part has several shoots and well-developed roots. Sections on the roots are treated with crushed coal. Planting chrysanthemums after division is carried out in the way we have already described.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds

How to grow chrysanthemums from seeds? The best thing seed way Korean varieties and hybrids are propagated. Chrysanthemum seeds are sown in shallow containers with a drainage layer and a substrate roasted at a temperature of 110-130 º, consisting of peat and humus in equal parts. As a substrate, you can also use the flower soil bought in the store, which should also be disinfected before planting. close up seeds perennial varieties it is not necessary, they are only lightly pressed against the soil, sprayed with a spray bottle and covered with glass or film. Contain crops at a temperature of 23-25 ºC, airing, removing condensate from the coating and moistening the surface of the substrate as soon as necessary.

Shoots should appear in 1.5-2 weeks, and as soon as this happens, the boxes are transferred to the brightest place. The film is not removed from the crops immediately, but gradually increasing the duration of the ventilation sessions until the seedlings adapt to the conditions of the room.

At the stage of development of 2-4 true leaves, chrysanthemum seedlings are planted in separate containers with drainage and a substrate of the same composition, trying not to damage the roots. After transplantation, young plants are sprayed with a solution of Zircon or Epin-Extra so that they take root faster and begin to develop. In the future, the temperature of the seedlings is lowered to 16-18 ºC and they continue to take care of them, already as adult plants.

As you can see, planting and caring for chrysanthemums at home is not at all difficult, while the pleasure of seeing chrysanthemums blooming in your apartment can hardly be overestimated.

Pests and diseases of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum diseases

In improper conditions and with improper care, chrysanthemum can get sick with powdery mildew, septoria and gray rot.

Powdery mildew is manifested by a loose whitish bloom on the leaves, petioles and shoots of the plant. With the development of the disease, the plaque becomes denser, turns brown, and the chrysanthemum loses its decorative effect. Disease-causing fungi are destroyed by treating the plant with solutions of Fundazol, Topsin, Topaz, Skora or other fungicidal preparations.

Septoria is also a fungal disease that can be diagnosed by gray-brown or rusty spots with a yellow border that occur on the leaves of the plant. These spots grow over the entire surface of the leaf, and black dots appear in their center - pycnidia of the fungus. Affected leaves and shoots dry out, the stems turn brown, wrinkle and bend. The diseased plant should be isolated, all affected leaves and shoots removed from it, and then treated with a solution of Kuproksat, Oxychoma or blue vitriol. Chrysanthemum should remain in quarantine until you are sure that it is healthy.

Gray rot, or botrytis, also has a fungal nature, but getting rid of this disease is more difficult than powdery mildew or septoria. The disease covers the ground organs with a gray fluffy coating, under which the tissues of the plant die. Botrytis is destroyed with Bordeaux liquid, and it is better to treat the plant with this drug before flowering begins.

Chrysanthemum pests

Of the pests, aphids, chrysanthemum nematodes, thrips and slobbering pennits are dangerous for chrysanthemums.

Aphids, thrips and pennits are sucking pests that feed on plant cell sap. They are destroyed by treating chrysanthemums with insecticidal preparations such as Aktellik, Derris, Confidor, Biotlin or Aktara.

As for the nematode, it is a tiny thread-like worm, and it is impossible to detect its presence on the chrysanthemum. The appearance of white mosaic spots between the veins of the lower leaves, which gradually turn brown, may indicate the defeat of the plant by nematodes. In the future, the leaves curl up, dry and fall off, and mosaic spots begin to appear on the upper leaves. Infection with nematodes of domestic chrysanthemum can occur through soil that has not been disinfected. Unfortunately, you will not be able to save the plant from death, so it must be destroyed along with the soil in which it grew.

Types and varieties of home chrysanthemums

As we have already mentioned, undersized and dwarf varieties and hybrids of Chinese, Korean and Indian chrysanthemums are grown in room culture. Moreover, the founders of all modern varieties are Indian chrysanthemum, or small-flowered, and mulberry-leaved chrysanthemum, or large-flowered, or Chinese. The Korean chrysanthemum has a hybrid origin, although no one has seen the mulberry chrysanthemum growing in nature either. It should be said that the past garden chrysanthemum dark and confusing, and therefore it is better not to delve into it. We offer you a description of the most popular of the currently existing varieties of home chrysanthemum:

Malchish-Kibalchish- the height of the bush is not more than 30 cm, and the diameter can reach 60 cm. This is a profusely blooming chrysanthemum with non-double inflorescences like chamomile with a diameter of up to 7 cm of pink-lilac color;
Evening lights- the height of a compact bush is about 35 cm. The inflorescences are simple, up to 5.5 cm in diameter, red with a yellow ring around the middle;
First snow– diameter is plentiful flowering bush about half a meter, height no more than 35 cm. Inflorescences are white, semi-double, up to 5 cm in diameter;
Mascot- a bush in height does not exceed 25 cm. This variety has small dark crimson inflorescences up to 2 cm in diameter;
Cheburashka- compact hemispherical bushes up to 40 cm high with lilac terry inflorescences up to 4 cm in diameter;
barbarian- a bush up to 40 cm high, blooming so profusely that sometimes leaves are not visible due to pinkish-lilac terry inflorescences with a yellow middle;
Flamingo- a bush up to half a meter high with pale pink flowers up to 7.5 cm in diameter. Towards the center of the flower, the shade becomes more intense;
Pink cream- bushes up to 50 cm high with densely double inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter of a lilac-pink hue, which eventually becomes creamy pink;
leaf fall- a chameleon plant up to 45 cm high with inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter of red-pink color, changing color to flesh-yellow;
raspberry pom pom – dwarf variety up to 30 cm high with pink-raspberry hemispherical inflorescences up to 6 cm in diameter;
Okishore- a low but powerful bush, reaching a height of 50 cm, with lilac-pink inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
Syaivo- a variety of Ukrainian selection up to 60 cm high with large egg-yellow inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter;
apple blossom- bushes no more than 50 cm high with thick strong shoots and pinkish-white terry inflorescences up to 8 cm in diameter.