Is it possible to grow garden balsam at home. Balsam propagation by cuttings

Among plant breeders both in our country and abroad, some types of potted plants are extremely popular, which differ in both a very decorative appearance and unpretentiousness. These include balsam, the flowers of which adorn the windowsills of almost every second apartment.

History of names

He has been known for a very long time. What is so different about these indoor flowers, the names of which are so unique? In Russia, the plant is known under the name "Vanka wet", and in England - "Zealous Lisa". This flower is very decorative, caring for it does not cause absolutely any trouble, but it blooms all year round... Actually, that's why the British named him after a diligent girl. In our country, it was nicknamed "wet" due to the fact that during watering, tiny droplets of a sweet secret appear on the edges of its leaves.

However, there are more than four hundred types of balsam. In some countries, it may be called "light", as the plant is traditionally distinguished by bright and lush flowers. The name "touchy", which is also quite common among domestic gardeners, comes from the fact that when you touch a box with ripe seeds, the latter gently slaps and opens.

About the medicinal properties of balsam

As a rule, this plant is associated exclusively with the decorative role that it plays in people's homes. But! This flower can also be used for medicinal purposes. It is only important to remember that he has so far found recognition only in the field. traditional medicine, in which balsam is often used in the treatment of severe colds.

Official pharmacology says that you need to be more careful with Vanka wet: yes, during the flowering period it contains a lot of ascorbic acid, but there are also quite strong alkaloids. Their excessive use can lead to very big trouble. So what can it be used for?

Practical use

Important! We remind you that the exact composition of balsam has not yet been properly studied, and therefore it is not strongly recommended to use it for self-medication!

Balsam infusions and its decoctions have long been used by healers for stones in the kidneys and bladder. Ulcers, severe wounds and hemorrhoids can also be treated with fresh leaves of a flower crushed into gruel.

We will not give complex recipes here, but we will talk about the creation of one remedy that perfectly helps with not too strong attacks of rheumatism. This infusion is prepared according to the following scheme: a teaspoon of well-dried leaves and flowers of "touchy" is taken, poured into a glass of boiling water and left for 20 minutes. You can take one tablespoon per day. Important! In no case do not increase the dose, as otherwise you will have long and painful bouts of vomiting.

However, let's move away from medical topics. Suppose you have a balsam flower. How to care for him correctly? Now you will find out about it!

Basic information about varieties

Note that these plants are both annual and perennial. Most often you can find Waller's (Waller's) balsam, but the Sultan variety is no less common. All of them reproduce well by seeds and cuttings, and even novice florists do not have any difficulties. Typically, the stems of these varieties grow to a height of about 50 centimeters. As for the leaves, in their case there is no such unity, since they can differ radically depending on the variety.

It is important to know that Waller's balsam is not one plant. Due to easy crossing and targeted selection, there are more than a dozen of its varieties in the world. We list only the most basic ones:

. Accent F1. Small plants, the height of which rarely exceeds 20-23 centimeters. They are distinguished by large flowers with a wide variety of colors.
.Tempo F1. As in the past, the size of the flowers does not exceed 25 centimeters. There are two varieties in the series: Peach Butterfly with the most beautiful apricot color of the petals, and Peach Butterfly, which has delicate pink petals.
. Stardust Mixed. The height is also average (from 15 to 25 cm). It differs in that the center of the petals seems to be powdered, and along the edge there is a edging of dark red, yellow or brown color.
.Bruno F1. This time the plant can grow up to 0.3 m. The flowers are lush, their diameter can exceed six centimeters. As a rule, they have a purple color, but there are exceptions when the inflorescences are painted in almost all the colors of the rainbow.
... Fiesta F1. It differs in very small double flowers, which in their appearance are very similar to miniature roses. The height of the bush does not exceed 25 centimeters.
. Firefly F1. This series includes ten varieties at once, distinctive feature which is amazingly bright and lush bloom. The flowers are very bright, the colors can be completely different.
.Stardust and Frosty. These series are extremely easy to distinguish from competitors, since inside the flower these plants have an expressive white "blot".
... Symphony. Differs in a quick onset of flowering, the plants are especially suitable for decorating various public places. The flowers are large and expressive, with a variety of colors.
... Fanciful Tropical. The main feature is the lush flowers, which stand out for their terry (terry balsam is just included in this series). Somewhat similar to separate species tropical orchids, therefore the name is Tropical.

Watering basics

As we already said, caring for balsam is not difficult, but still some points need to be remembered. This is especially true for watering: balsam, whose flowers are so good, belongs to the category of "water loaves", and therefore it should be watered often and in sufficient quantities.

The flower reacts painfully to the lack of water in the soil: the stems begin to fade, and the flowers fall en masse. Important! When watering, you need to ensure that moisture does not get on the root collar. To prevent this from happening, you should use a watering can with a thin neck, with which you can distribute the liquid along the edge of the pot in a thin stream. Despite the love for water, the balsam flower (we are now discussing how to care for it) does not like waterlogging very much, and therefore, after watering, be sure to drain the pan.

What kind of water should you take?

Unlike other plants common in our area, balsam is quite picky about the composition of water. More precisely, to its constant rigidity. The water must be soft and well settled. If you noticed that your balsam, whose flowers until that time delighted the eyes of all households, suddenly began to wither, and the soil in the pot was covered with a whitish bloom, then the watering liquid was clearly too hard. In this case, you urgently need to replace the top layer of soil in the pot, and then water the plant only in the pan.

By the way, it is very useful to change the topsoil from time to time to a fresh one and loosen it regularly. This is due to the fact that, due to frequent watering, the natural structure of the soil can be disrupted, which often leads to poor gas exchange in it. If you do not carry out regular loosening, the roots can begin to rot. In general, the cultivation of balsam can be difficult only for two reasons: the need correct watering and more or less regular loosening of the soil. In all other respects, this plant is a reference sample of an ascetic, which some "household" little things do not harm at all.

Let us remind you once again that balsam, although it loves moisture, does not tolerate stagnation of water in the sump, so it should be drained as regularly as possible! Please be aware that in winter time the frequency of watering must be reduced. From time to time, you can also spray the leaves, but it is important to carefully monitor so that the water does not get on the flowers, which the latter do not like very much.

Desired substrate characteristics

Speaking about watering, we completely forgot to talk about what kind of soil should be for growing this most interesting and beautiful flower. And she, as anyone can understand experienced florist, should be light enough and loose enough, since otherwise such an amount of water will simply not be absorbed normally. However, almost all indoor flowers differ in this. Balsam in this case is no exception.

It is not worth overusing nutrients, and there are two reasons for this. Firstly, in a highly moistened nutrient soil, the risk of mold and mildew development is unrealistically high, which will not have a very beneficial effect on the health of your balsams. Secondly, in such a "fat" soil, the flowers will not be too decorative, but the leaves will begin to grow with incredible intensity. Of course, this is not why we plant a balsam flower, the photos of which are incredibly beautiful.


As for the looseness, then in this case it is advisable to adhere to the "golden mean". We recommend that you use a substrate with a moderately acidic pH reaction, for the preparation of which you need to take an equal part of humus, as well as perlite, turf and good leaf compost. In principle, a pair of weight fractions of leafy soil is taken with equal success, to which one equal part of peat and sand (coarse, river) is added.

In this case, indoor flowers, the photos of which are in the article, will delight you for a long time with their magnificent appearance.

Temperature and light conditions

As for light, the plant loves it, but still does not tolerate constant exposure to direct sunlight. But this is true only for the spring-summer period: if you want to see abundant flowering of balsam in winter, you just need to provide it with rather long insolation. Only in bright natural light does the "touch-me-not" form the most beautiful indoor flowers. Balsam, thus differing from other cultivated plants, blooms beautifully even in January-February, continuing to tirelessly delight your eyes.

As for the temperature regime, then throughout the winter you need to maintain the temperature within +16 degrees Celsius, and in the summer it should be raised to + 18-20 degrees. Of course, it is much hotter in a city apartment. In this case, the plant must be regularly sprayed, since a lot of moisture leaves through the pores of the delicate leaves.

About feeding balsam

It should come as no surprise that balsam, whose flowers can be seen from early spring to late autumn, needs frequent and abundant feeding, which must be done every two weeks. What fertilizers should you use? The flower has no special requirements: in the spring, nitrogen fertilization is needed, and in the summer it needs phosphorus. From time to time, you can "pamper" balsam with complex fertilizers, to which it reacts perfectly.

Finally, for better health, balsam should be repotted regularly. This must be done every year, but a break of a couple of years is also allowed. In fairness, it should be noted that a flower that grows in a frankly cramped pot blooms much more beautifully and abundantly, but at the same time it must be watered and fed as regularly as possible. This rule applies to all indoor flowers, photos of which are in the article.

Reproduction of balsam

Alas, this wonderful plant also has its drawbacks. The most critical of them is the tendency to lose decorativeness already at the age of three (concerns perennial varieties, of course). Therefore, it is necessary to take care of the replacement and seed material in advance. As we said above, balsam can be propagated not only by seeds, but also by the most ordinary cuttings.

Important! Balsam, the seeds of which you intend to use for reproduction, must be provided with high-quality and regular feeding, among which phosphorus and potassium fertilizers should prevail.

Cuttings

If you decide to use cuttings, then you need to cut off the young and healthy shoots, after which they should be placed in water or highly moist soil. As for soil mixtures, for cuttings they should be made from one part of sand and peat. If the room is light and warm enough, then the shoots very quickly begin to take root.

If you root the cuttings in the spring, then by the fall you will have a blooming balsam. The flowers of young plants are especially lush and beautiful, so we recommend planting them at this time. In principle, during autumn rooting, they also appear quickly, but in this case, the shoots must be provided additional heat and light, since otherwise their rotting is not excluded.

Important! If you treat the cuttings with any humic fertilizer immediately after cutting, the likelihood of early rooting increases dramatically, you will see flowers faster. Balsam, which is so easy to care for, can also be propagated by seeds!

Propagation of balsam by seeds

As a rule, planting of seeds begins in March. However, if you want to see the May bloom, then you need to do this back in February. Before planting, the seeds must be placed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, keeping them in it for at least ten minutes. They are planted to a depth similar to their diameter. The box (or other container) must be covered plastic wrap, and then place in a warm and bright place. Here's how to get balsam from seeds.

If you did everything correctly, the seedlings will appear very quickly. Soon after that, the tallest and healthiest sprouts can already be dived into separate pots or peat cups. Late spring flowers can be planted even in open ground (if the capabilities of the variety allow it). As a rule, indoor balsam blooms within seven months after planting.

By the way! The peculiarity of balsam is that its varieties are simply superbly crossed with each other, and therefore do not miss the chance to create your own. By experimenting with different varieties, you can get a really chic balsam, a plant that no one else will have!

How to trim balsam properly?

As soon as the young shoots grow to a size that suits you, they need to be pinched. As a result of this procedure, many young side shoots appear, and the plant takes on the appearance of a beautiful squat bush. However, if the balsam has grown too much, then it can be cut almost always, regardless of the season and its age.

In the spring, you can remove unnecessary and ugly shoots. It is highly advisable to regularly prune diseased, weak and drying out shoots, as they have an unpleasant tendency to pull on the nutrients necessary for healthy parts of the plant.

Basic information on diseases of balsam

Like all other indoor flowers, balsam has some specific disease and pest problems.

So, we have already mentioned that in winter it cannot be heavily watered. This is due to the fact that the life processes of a flower at this time are significantly slowed down, and therefore it is more susceptible to damage by rot, fungus or moths. If you notice at least some signs indicating the presence of these problems, urgently start saving your flower! The rescue operation consists in transshipment of the plant, cleaning the roots from the old soil mixture and planting balsam in new pot with a lot of drainage.

If rot has started on the surface of the soil, the affected layer of soil should be removed and replaced with a new one. Alas, in the event of a neglected situation of this kind, you will no longer be able to save the flower. The spider mite also loves to settle on balsam. It is especially characteristic of this particular plant, since it loves high humidity in the air and soil, which the mite also likes. You need to get rid of it using chemicals from gardening shops.

This should be done quickly: if you start the process, gluttonous pests will completely eat up your balsam. The diseases of this plant are such that you should react as soon as possible!

In the case when it was cold in the room for a long time, and after that black spots appeared on the leaves, we can talk about the defeat of the plant by bacteriosis. We recommend using the "Alirin" remedy for its treatment, which almost always helps.

What causes leaves to fall off and flowers not to bloom?

However, leaves may fall off with the same success due to improper watering, a sharp change in temperature or lack of nutrients... If they wither, but there are no traces of pests, this circumstance clearly indicates poor watering. Balsam can't stand his absence at home!

Weak flowering also indicates poor feeding. But! It must be remembered that the excessive enthusiasm for nitrogen fertilizers in summer period can lead to exactly the same result. In the case when the plant does not have enough light, its shoots begin to stretch out strongly, becoming noticeably pale in appearance. If you plant balsam in an unnecessarily large pot, it will also stretch out intensively and bloom poorly. As we have already said, the fall of flowers indicates insufficient feeding.

As you can see, balsam is a plant that will decorate almost any house or apartment!

According to experts, balsam is well suited for growing at home and for growing in the open field. The flower is prized for its abundant and long flowering, a variety of shades. If the care for indoor balsam at home is carried out correctly (regular watering, feeding, proper lighting and transplantation), then the plant pleases its owner with the dark green color of the leaves, their elasticity and annually lays a large number of buds. So, balsam flowers at home and in the garden, planting and care, the choice of varieties, optimal conditions cultivation, photo.

Waller's popular balsam care

At home, most often you can find Waller's balsam. It is unpretentious in care, and therefore even a novice florist can get a healthy plant.

What kind of care should receive indoor flowers Waller's balsam - practical advice:

Lighting... Balsam is a light-loving tropical plant, but it is contraindicated to be in direct scorching sunlight. In this case, burns threaten its succulent leaves and stems. If there is no other place in the apartment for a flower pot, then on hot summer days it must be shaded. The best place for balsam is the east or west side, where there is diffused lighting. Balsam can grow in the shade, but due to a lack of light, it will not bloom.

Watering... Waller's balsam is also called Vanka wet, and therefore it is not difficult to guess that the plant loves wet soil. The soil in the pot should be moderately moist, but not wet. In spring and summer, when the plant is developing intensively, it needs more water... On a lack of moisture, balsam sheds leaves and buds, withers. It is necessary to ensure that the water does not stagnate in the pot, which can cause decay of the roots, as well as the appearance small midges... Therefore, it is imperative to drain the soil mixture.
In winter, watering is reduced. At this time, watered only when the earthen lump dries up slightly. The cooler it is in the room, the less water you need to water.

Temperature... The room where there are pots of Waller's balsam must sometimes be ventilated. This has a beneficial effect on the development of plants. However, measures should be taken to protect them from drafts. Balsam reacts painfully to cold air currents. To grow a beautiful flower, the temperature regime should be within +16 ... + 24 degrees.

Humidity... It is mistakenly assumed that Waller's balsam at home must be sprayed. This is an incorrect statement, since balsam in this case drops flowers and even buds. Experts do not recommend spraying the flower.

The soil... The plant prefers a light soil composition: 1 part each of humus, sod and leafy soil, peat and sand. It is important that the soil for the balsam is slightly acidic. Let's admit a pH from 6.0 to 7.5, an optimal soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.5.

Transfer... It is recommended to use not too large pots for growing plants. The more spacious the container is, the more forces the plant will spend on the formation of root growth and green mass. In this case, there will be no flowers for a very long time. Balsam is usually transplanted in the spring. Availability good drainage- necessarily.

Top dressing... Flowers are fed twice a month with complex fertilizers. You should not get carried away using nitrogen-containing fertilizing, since with an excess of nitrogen, the plant will begin to fatten, and flowering will be very poor. Homemade balsam responds well to fertilizers with a high potassium content. This stimulates its flowering. Such dressings are made during the budding period.

Common questions about caring for a home balsam flower

A little about the intricacies of growing and caring for Waller's balsam at home. Frequently asked Questions:

1. How to water balsam? Watering should be abundant when the plant is in bloom. Otherwise, it will shed the buds. A flower needs a lot of moisture when it is hot in the house or apartment. You can see that balsam drinks a lot of water by how quickly the soil in its pot dries out between waterings. Do not allow the soil to dry out in a pot of balsam. Otherwise, it will wither.

In winter, on the contrary, you need to water the balsam less often, since the plant retires. Optimal mode watering in winter - abundant watering (water should completely moisten the earthen lump and go into the pan of the pot) after the soil has dried out significantly. Excess moisture from the pallet must be removed.

2. Waller's balsam - annual or perennial? If balsam is grown as a herb for open ground, then it will be an annual plant, since balsam does not survive the winter even if it is covered with leaves or humus. The flower is often transferred for the winter to a house, apartment or heated loggia, where the temperature should be within +15 ... + 18 degrees. In such conditions, balsam, having received proper care at home, will not die. In the spring, he will give new shoots. That is, Waller's balsam, which is grown in the open field, if transferred to the house for the winter, survives and can be considered a perennial plant.

The only remark: the balsam, which survived the winter, does not bloom as abundantly as a young plant does, and therefore it is rejuvenated, that is, cut off. In this case, it turns out beautiful planting material, because balsam is perfectly propagated by apical cuttings. After pruning, the mother plant gives new shoots and begins to bloom profusely.

3. How does indoor balsam multiply? Waller's balsam, like other species, is perfectly propagated by cuttings and seeds. In the first case, the apical cuttings are cut from mother plant... The stalk is planted in a pot with wet soil or in open ground, when the danger of frost has passed, it is covered with an ordinary jar or any other greenhouse is organized. Rooting is very fast. As early as 3-4 days, the stalk acquires its own root system. With moderate light and regular feeding, the cutting will lay buds 2 weeks after planting.

Propagation of balsam by seeds is carried out both in the open field and at home. At home, Waller's balsam seeds sprout already 2-3 days after planting (but germination depends on freshness seed). If you take New Guinea balsam, then its seeds sprout up to 1 month. The seedlings develop very quickly. At home, they lay buds within 3 weeks after germination. Seed picking is required.

For more information about the propagation of balsam by seeds, you can read in or find out on the forum about balsam.

Balsam, as a herb for open ground, can be grown from seeds at home, followed by picking seedlings in open ground. You can plant seeds in open ground, but only after the danger of freezing has passed. The plant does not experience subzero temperatures. Even in the open field, the plant needs a pick.

4. Why doesn't balsam bloom?

In most cases, balsam is not in color if its seedlings or rooted cuttings have been planted in a pot that is too large for them. The plant begins to "fatten", that is, to intensively build up the root system and green mass. The balsam pot should be small. The lack of nutrients and soil is compensated by regular feeding. However, you need to be careful with feeding. If the fertilizer contains too much nitrogen, then the balsam will also begin to "fatten" and will not bloom. Potassium in the dressing contributes to the laying of buds.

5. When to plant balsam in open ground?

Balsam can be planted in open ground when the probability of frost has passed and the average temperature at night does not drop below +10 ... + 12 degrees. Otherwise delicate plant will die, since it does not tolerate the effects of low temperatures. Waller's balsam and New Guinea as herbaceous plants for open ground must be hardened before planting, that is, gradually accustomed to temperature extremes day and night. To do this, pots with flowers or seedlings are taken outside the room with the arrival of spring and significant warming. They return the plant back to the room in the evening, when the temperature begins to drop below +10 ... + 12 degrees.

Diseases of balsam and their treatment. Photo

At home, balsam is prone to the following diseases: spider mite, mealybug. Less often, aphids attack the plant, but this is observed in garden culture.

Why do balsam leaves turn yellow? This indicates insufficient watering or the plant is in direct sunlight.

Balsam leaves curl if the root system is disturbed or the plant is systematically exposed to direct sunlight. Balsam leaves curl if a spider mite has settled on it. For the same reason, balsam sheds its leaves.

The foliage, as a rule, is deep green in color, there is also a color with a reddish or bronze tint.

Balsam flowers are located in the axils. There are different colors depending on the variety: they are soft pink or milky, but they are variegated, speckled or striped. Bred varieties with double flowers.

The balsam flower is small in size and usually has a bright color, which gave rise to the name "light". It is also not for nothing that they call balsam "eternal blossom" - balsams bloom very abundantly almost all year round. Thanks to its beautiful small bushes, balsam, or, as the people often call it "Vanka wet", is often grown as an ampelous plant.

It can be grown in two qualities: both annuals and perennials.

How to water properly?

Balsam prefers water in large quantities. First, let's analyze how often it is required to water the soil substrate in spring-summer period... If the plant is in the room, then watering should be done every other day. It is advisable that the tray in which the pot stands is deep. For balsam, there is no extra water.

If the plant is in the open field, then watering is done daily and with the same frequency - spraying. Such procedures can significantly increase the percentage of air humidity, as well as prevent the appearance of pests, for example, spider mites.

Winter watering takes place once every three days or twice a week. The plant grows in winter too, so it is necessary to control the amount of water remaining in the sump after watering. The earth lump must be saturated with moisture, drying out weakens the plant itself. If the soil is highly moistened, then there will be stagnation of water in the soil, and this is a favorable environment for breeding small midges - sciarids.

NOTE! A significant drying out of the soil can lead to the death of balsam.

Fertilizers for growing at home

A properly designed program for feeding your plant will allow you to achieve the desired effects, for example, bright and lush flowering, or vice versa, a set of leaf mass, so that the balsam takes on an even more majestic appearance.

How and how to fertilize?

In the spring, when the balsam is actively growing, additional fertilizing is desirable for it. into the ground, to which he gratefully responds with an abundance of green juicy greenery, shoots and leaves.

Once every 10 days, you need to feed the balsam full mineral fertilizer... Top dressing is done in cloudy weather or in the morning or evening to avoid root burns. Before feeding, the soil is watered with plain water, and then with fertilizer.

From March to September, balsam is fed with fertilizer for indoor decorative flowering plants every two weeks. Fertika-lux, uniflor-bud, agriculture for flowering, Merry Flower Girl for geraniums and balcony flowers, or Merry Flower Girl for violets and begonias (flowering) are well suited.


However, if you nevertheless made a mistake when choosing a ready-made fertilizer or did not comply with the proportions indicated in the instructions, do not despair. But before we move on to the analysis of further procedures, we will make one remark.

Balsam does not tolerate organic fertilizers such as manure. You will see how the fragrance of the flower is replaced by drooping leaves and shedding of buds.

And this is exactly what it becomes in view of our inexperience and inattention, we must immediately stop feeding by any means. Let the plant "recover" for a month and then continue feeding as usual, only with a more careful choice of nutrition.

Conclusion

The correct choice of fertilizer and its frequency will not go unnoticed by balsam. In conclusion, we suggest recalling a few basic rules:

  1. The soil in the balsam pot must be kept constantly moist.
  2. In the spring, before the flowering period, mineral fertilizers are applied.
  3. During the flowering period, to prolong and increase the intensity, balsam is fed with phosphorus-potassium supplements.
  4. You can also fertilize balsam through irrigation of the leaves.
  5. It is not necessary to use organic matter, balsam does not tolerate it.

We hope that our simple tips will help you achieve abundant flowering balsam. And your "touchy" will continue to delight you with its beauty and health.

Balsam has long been rooted in the position of a common indoor plant among gardeners, the care of which we will tell you about in this article. This plant is famous for its excellent flowering, and numerous types of various colors.

The flower has many names associated with its special properties. So, for example, due to the formation of drops of sugary dew after watering, it is called "Vanka Wet". And its very name Impatiens translates as "touchy", which is explained by the fact that after pollination balsam flowers are extremely fragile, and crumble at the slightest touch.

note the fact that balsam is picky about location, temperature, lighting and humidity, so take it seriously when choosing a place for this plant. With an unsuccessful location, the balsam may not bloom, and even die.

Growing balsam - features

Different subspecies of balsam differ from each other in the shape of flowers, leaves and even the structure of the plant. In nature, there are about 600 different types balsams, but they all have common characteristics.

  1. Firstly, the need for moisture. It is better to overmoisten balsams than to forget to water. For this they received the funny nickname "Wet Roly". However, stagnation of water in the roots is undesirable even for balsam.
  2. Secondly, these plants flower best in small pots. If you plant a balsam in a large flowerpot, it will spend all its energy on growth and tillering, and you will have to wait a long time for flowering, and it was for the sake of flowers that you purchased the balsam.
  3. Thirdly, balsams are easily propagated both by cuttings and seeds. Although indoor views is generally easier and faster to grow from cuttings.
  4. Well fourthly, balsams are very susceptible to various diseases and require special attention to the leaves, otherwise, due to one damaged shoot, which you did not see in time, the whole plant will die very quickly. And even if you manage to save the balsam, it can lose its decorative effect forever.

Caring for indoor balsam

Indoor balsams are very undemanding and not capricious. They can grow in shaded places, although light ones love, of course, more. New Guinea balsams do not need shading from direct sunlight, the rest need to be protected from the bright sun.

Seat selection

All representatives of the balsamic family are light-loving herbaceous plants. If the house has a south-facing window, that is their place. But when placing the pot on the windowsill, it is worth considering that direct sunlight shining through the glass can scorch the juicy and bright leaves.

To ensure proper care for indoor balsam during the period summer heat, it is necessary to put protection or choose an area on the windowsill where the sun's rays are delayed for a short time. With the onset of cold weather, the protection must be removed and the pot placed in the most lighted place.

Balsamic also:

  • love fresh air;
  • do not tolerate strong drafts;
  • they do not like frost and cold - in winter it is better to move the plant pot away from the glass, closer to the edge of the window sill, where the heat from the battery is felt;
  • when airing the room in winter, it is better to set the plant aside from the window.

If the pot is placed incorrectly, the color loses its crown shape - it stretches upward, the stem is exposed, lower leaves fall off, flowering is rare. The plant throws out buds at the very top of the stem.

As a rule, this plant is not particularly picky about lighting and can successfully grow and bloom on a windowsill with any window orientation. True, this does not mean at all that it can be placed under the scorching rays of the sun or pushed into the darkest corner. As practice shows, the best place for him is light partial shade. For example, you can put it not on a window sill, but in a wall between two windows, for me it grew beautifully on a stand a meter from the southeast window.

At the same time, it was also noticed that the flowers of such a plant have a brighter color than those of plants standing in brightly lit places. For the summer, balsam can be taken out into the fresh air (for example, a balcony), but keep in mind that this plant is very light and even a slight breeze can ruffle it. But, despite this, it is quite often used in pot compositions together with petunia, lobelia, begonia, geranium, etc. to decorate the same balconies, terraces, etc.

Location

Balsam is a lover of bright light, but at the same time on his condition very bad effect direct solar lighting, therefore, at home, it is recommended to shade the plant from bright sunlight.

In winter, indoor balsam need to ensure a sufficient amount of light, because it is thanks to this that the flowering of balsam is possible all year round.

So that the balsam bush has a uniform beautiful crown, the flowerpot with the plant must be periodically turned, exposing the flower to the sun with different sides... Lack of light can cause the plant to stop budding altogether and will lose its attractiveness... The flower loves fresh air, but suffers from drafts.

Temperature

In the warm season, balsam is suitable for any temperature for growth and flowering. Sudden changes can damage the plant considerably. Winter period must pass at a temperature not lower than + 12-16 degrees.

  • The plant will be comfortable where it is warm. The subtropical plant has already adapted to our conditions, but it can still bear the cold with great difficulty. Therefore, in winter, the room should be at least 13-16 0 С, and in summer - 20-24 0 С.
  • Balsamic people love humidity, so if the arrow of the thermometer rises above 22 ° C, it is worth increasing the humidity in the room. Otherwise the flowers will dry out. It is recommended to place a container of water next to the pot.
  • In the warm season, the plant does not make special demands on the ambient temperature, except that sudden changes can affect it. In winter, however, the temperature prefers slightly lowered within + 12-16 degrees.

In spring and summer, balsam perfectly tolerates temperatures of +25 degrees and above, but on condition fresh air and wet substrate. In winter, the temperature should not fall below +10 +15 degrees.
Room balsam prefers moderate humidity, but only until the thermometer readings exceed the +22 degree mark.
Temperature rise above this value can lead to rapid evaporation of moisture, resulting in balsam fades... Spraying will help to save the situation, which is carried out carefully, trying not to get on the flowers and buds.

Watering and humidity

Balsams are moisture-loving. If the balsam is overdried, its leaves "hang like rags," but quickly come to their senses, having received the desired moisture. In summer, these plants are watered abundantly, in winter less, especially if the room is cool. During this period, the most comfortable temperature for balsams is about 15 degrees. However, balsams also winter well in a city apartment.

  • After watering, especially with warm water, droplets of water are formed on the leaves, at the ends, as if tears, for which the people called the balsam "Vanka wet". These "tears" are sweet, and on hot days they dry out and become "sugared".
  • Balsam prefers water in large quantities. If the plant is in the room, then we water it every other day. It is advisable that the tray in which the pot stands is deep. For balsam, there is no extra water.
  • If the plant is on open space, then watering is done every day, as well as everyday spraying. With the help of such procedures, the percentage of air humidity will increase, as well as suspend the appearance of spider mites.

Winter watering takes place once every three days or twice a week. The plant also grows in winter, so it is necessary to control the amount of water remaining in the sump after watering. The earth lump must be saturated with moisture, drying out weakens the plant itself. If the soil is highly moistened, then there will be stagnation of water in the soil, and this is a favorable environment for breeding small midges - sciarids.

Do not spare water!

Watering is the most important of the agrotechnical requirements for caring for balsams. At first I watered my first flower, like other plants - as the substrate dries up. But my balsam somehow quickly wilted, the leaves wither, and the flowers and buds crumbled. Fortunately, I quickly realized what was the reason, and began to water it more intensively. In the summer I water the indoor balsam every other day, in the winter once every 3 days or 2 times a week. In addition, I began to water it so abundantly that some of the water was poured into the pan. I didn’t pour the water out of the tray, and the next day it wasn’t there! The eternally thirsty balsam drank during the night and what he could not drink during the day.

In my experience, the balsam flower is best planted in a pot that has a deep enough base. Water it abundantly so that some of the water ends up in the pan. And unlike other plants, I do not completely drain this water. On the second day, balsam already absorbs it from below.
If you have allowed the flower to wilt, try watering it abundantly. It happens that after a few hours the flower comes to life, and nevertheless such tests greatly weaken the plant. The substrate should not be allowed to dry; the earthy ball should be moist. But the stagnation of excess water is dangerous because sciarids - tiny flying midges - will start in the ground.

In summer, he needs normal regular watering, in winter - rare. Clean the leaves with a dry cloth. When spraying with water, avoid getting it on the flowers - shield them with paper.

Moderate but abundant

A perennial and annual plant will only produce bright flowers if the soil or soil in which they live is kept moist. In summer, the flower is given more moisture, and in winter the amount of water is reduced by 1/3. In this case, you need to water with soft water without impurities. It is recommended to settle the tap water for at least 2-3 days.

Frequent and moderately abundant watering is needed. Do not flood the plant. In this case, the roots will start to rot and the flowers will disappear. To avoid this, it is best to make good drainage.

If the balsam is properly looked after at home, then after each watering, small droplets of moisture will appear on the leaves of the plant. After a few hours, they will be sugar-coated. This feature of the flower manifests itself in the summer.

The plant is very hygrophilous. Therefore, in warm seasons, watering should be done regularly; when kept outdoors in summer, it is almost daily. Also, spray it daily, this will not only increase the humidity of the air, but also protect it from spider mites, for which balsam is a favorite delicacy. As for winter watering, then again, keep in mind - in winter the balsam continues to grow, and, despite the lower temperature of the content, it needs watering, of course, more rare, but regular (depending on the temperature).

Water procedures

Watered balsam in the summer months, abundantly, as soon as the topsoil dries. During watering, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the root collar, for which watering is carried out along the edge of the pot. After the procedure, excess water from the pan must be drained.

  • It is better to water the plant with settled soft water. Using hard water can eventually be found on the soil surface white bloom , indicating the alkalization of the soil. In this case, it is recommended to replace the top layer of soil in the pot.
  • Insufficient watering can provoke a lag in growth of balsam, while its flowers dry and fall off.
    Indoor from time to time balsam needs in loosening the topsoil (no deeper than 1 cm), which provides air access to the roots.
  • Also, the flower needs feeding, which is applied in the spring-summer period once every two weeks. It is best to use complex fertilizers, in a half dosage. After transplant feeding is done no earlier than three weeks later.

Since the dormant period of balsam not so pronounced, and even in winter, the flower releases buds, it is advisable after their appearance to feed the plant with a weak mineral solution. Fertilizers are applied to moist soil after watering the plant.

Bloom

Another popular name for the plant is touch-me-not. After pollination of the flowers, balsam seed pods are formed, which burst at the slightest touch.

The name "balsam" (Impatiencs Balsamina) translates as "touchy", "cannot bear touch." This is due to the fact that balsam seed boxes burst even from a slight push.

And the balsam plant is also called "fire" for its bright flowers. They come in red, pink, purple and white.

Flowering, as a rule, occurs at the beginning of summer and lasts until noon in autumn, but with appropriate light and temperature conditions flowers can appear all winter.

Fertilizer and feeding

For better growth and flowering balsam, it is advisable to fertilize during the flowering period every two weeks. Balsam grows quickly, so it is transplanted annually into fresh soil for flowering plants. Overgrown plants are rejuvenated by vigorous pruning. The cut shoots are used as rooting cuttings.

  • For abundant flowering and good growth, the plant needs feeding at any time of the year. Beginning with spring period and until autumn, when the growth of the plant stops, fertilizing is applied once every ten days with fertilizer for flowers. Top dressing with alternating nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers proved to be good.
  • The amount of winter dressing is decreasing, but not completely excluded. With a one-time feeding per month, the plant will look great. Phosphorus and potassium are included in the composition of fertilizing introduced into the ground in winter.
  • To heighten growth and flowering, it must be fed. But, as in everything, a reasonable measure should be observed, an overfed plant will bloom just as poorly as a plant that is not fed at all!

From the beginning of active growth in the spring and until it stops in the fall, feed it once every 10 days with ordinary fertilizer for flowering plants, this, in principle, is enough. A good result can also be achieved with separate feeding, alternating nitrogen fertilizers and phosphoric. In winter, reduce feeding, but do not completely exclude it. To keep in shape, it is enough to feed him once, maximum twice a month. Fertilizers for winter dressing should contain a high content of potassium and phosphorus.

Reproduction

Balsam readily propagates by cuttings, which quickly root in water. Also, balsams are propagated by seeds. The seeds can be planted all year round. After planting, the plants bloom in 3-4 months. Thus, you can constantly have blooming balsams of all kinds of colors at home.

Balsam can be propagated by seeds and cuttings. Reproduction by seeds is more laborious. They are poured into moist soil, creating a greenhouse effect, but it is not a fact that the expected appearance of a flower will be obtained. It is best to propagate balsam using cuttings. The top of the plant is cut off with a length of 6-7 centimeters with two internodes. The lower leaves are removed on it. The stalk is deeply immersed in water, otherwise it will dry out.

In two weeks, the stalk will sprout. Can be planted in the ground. Cuttings also take root in the sand, in the soil mixture. You can make its composition yourself. To do this, take one part of peat, one part of the mulching substrate (vermiculite) and two parts of perlite. You can land in plastic dishes. The balsam will begin to grow, gain strength. Over time, it can be transplanted to the intended place.

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Use cuttings from the top of the stem from spring pruning. You can first put them in water until they take root, or you can plant them directly in the soil after being treated with rooting hormones.

Cuttings

If you love homemade balsams, you will probably want to multiply them. I propagate balsams by cuttings. I cut the healthiest and most beautiful shoots and put them in water, and the cutting must be deeply immersed in liquid, otherwise it will dry out.

  • I usually cut several cuttings - just in case, so that at least one will take root, but, as a rule, they all take root well, and then I distribute the seedlings to my friends.
  • Once upon a time I was enriched with several copies of balsam, carefully cutting cuttings from plants at a local agrobiostation and rooting them.
  • Balsam can also be propagated by seeds, which must be sown in moist soil and covered with a transparent film to create a greenhouse effect and retain the moisture needed by these flowers.

Garden balsams are usually grown from seeds, or rather, they themselves miraculously multiply by self-sowing.

My regular readers know that I rarely recommend seed propagation. Balsam room is no exception.

No, of course you can collect seeds and try this method, but firstly it is more laborious, and secondly, in this case, you can get a plant that is not exactly what you expected, the maternal traits are practically not preserved during seed reproduction, and expecting to get a plant with double flower, You will most likely get the usual "simpleton".

Therefore, it is best to propagate indoor balsam by cuttings. Moreover, it's pretty simple. To do this, cut off the top mother plant, about 6-7 centimeters long (there should be at least 2 internodes on the handle), remove the lower leaves, and put the handle in a glass of water. Everything!

After a couple of weeks, the roots will appear and then the cutting can be planted in the soil mixture. You can also root the cutting in sand, perlite, or you can directly in the soil mixture. But for a novice florist, I still recommend it in some water - more clearly. Make a light mixture for seedlings: peat, vermiculite and perlite (1: 1: 2), ideal for planting plastic cups... When the plant gets stronger and matures, it can be planted in a permanent mixture.

bezlji.com

Transfer

Balsam is a perennial flowering plant. Some flower lovers transplant it every two years, as the shoots stretch out, leaves fall, plants are affected by diseases and pests, which affects appearance... This primarily applies to plants that make up a composition with other flowers. The transplanted plant blooms brighter and more abundantly, and has a more attractive appearance. When transplanting, you need to remember a few rules that will help you grow a beautiful plant. The root system must fit into the pot. It should be medium in size with a little soil.

  • The balsam will bloom when the root system grows to such a size that it completely fills the entire space of the pot, penetrating the entire earthen ball. Violets need to be transplanted in the same way.
  • If you plant a balsam in a large flowerpot, then it will spend its strength, filling the entire volume with roots, but there will not be enough strength for flowering. You can grow a bouquet of balsams of different colors in one pot.
  • For this, cuttings of different colors are taken and planted in a much larger pot. They will get along well in one pot, complementing each other.
  • Balsams are recommended to be transplanted once a year - in the spring. After transplanting, the plant rejuvenates, gives new shoots, blooms better.
  • But I transplant balsam 2 times a year: in spring and autumn. At the end of summer, balsams often have shoots stretching out, losing leaves. And even after hot days, they are easily affected by diseases.

It is also obligatory to transplant balsam after purchase into a permanent pot.

Change the flowerpot in the spring; choose small vessels, this is conducive to flowering.

Change of location

Indoor balsam, a perennial plant, which basically distinguishes it from a garden relative, and as a result, needs transplants. In fairness, I want to note that many growers do not contain one plant for more than two years, but prefer to grow a young one (especially since this is elementary, but more on that below ...), since over time it grows and becomes unattractive.

This is especially true for plants that are planted in compositions with others, for these purposes it is better to always have a young plant. But be that as it may, a transplant is still necessary. First of all, when transplanting (or planting) balsam, remember that the pot must correspond to the size of the plant, or rather, the size of the root system. The fact is that flowering occurs only when the roots fill the entire space of the pot and cover the entire earthy clod (like violets).

Therefore, you need to start with a small pot, gradually increasing its size. You can plant several plants in one pot, they coexist perfectly, and in this case you can take a larger pot. As for the soil ... A very nutritious mixture is not recommended, which stimulates an intensive set of green mass and inhibits flowering. Most often, the following composition of the soil mixture is recommended:

  • Leafy ground - two parts
  • Sod land - two parts
  • Humus - two parts
  • Peat - one piece
  • Sand - two parts

At the same time, I want to note that even an ordinary mixture of leafy earth and sand (2: 1) may also be fine. Just do not take land from under an oak tree (such land is of little use for most plants), it is better from under the maple, linden, garden trees ...

Regular procedure

Transplant indoor balsam in spring and, as necessary, in summer, while young plants need an annual transplant. An adult balsam flower is either transplanted, or renewed after 2-3 years by rooting the apical cuttings, since over time the balsam grows out, becoming unattractive.

By choosing balsam pot, it should be remembered that its size should correspond to the size of the plant's root system. It is noticed that more lush flowering is achieved if the plant is a little cramped in the flowerpot. To give the plant a lush appearance, you can plant 2-3 copies in one pot.

Transplant soil should not be overly nutritious, as this will stimulate an intensive build-up of green mass, which will inhibit flowering. To ensure the lightness and air permeability of the substrate, it is necessary to add sand and peat to the leafy ground, or prepare a mixture of humus, compost, turf and perlite in equal parts. One of the important conditions for transplanting is to provide balsam with high-quality drainage.

The soil

Light soil is suitable for balsam, usually a light substrate for year-round flowering plants. If the soil is oversaturated with minerals, ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate, then this will lead to the rapid growth of bright greenery and few flowers. As a result, flowers may not appear at all. You can prepare your own mixture for planting balsam:

  • earth mixed with leaves - two parts
  • earthen mixture (sod land) - two parts
  • compost (humus) - two parts
  • peat - one part
  • sand - two parts

A mixture of deciduous humus and sand (2: 1) is suitable for transplanting. It is taken from under the maple, linden, trees in the garden.

Use loose soil, made up of equal parts humus and peat, with a little sand. Apply liquid fertilizer every two weeks during the growing season.

Priming

A normal, lightweight medium for flowering plants will do. Heavy soil, rich in minerals and nitrogenous compounds, will lead to the fact that there are many leaves, but few flowers, the plant may not bloom at all.

As for the filling of the flowerpot, there should not be a lot of soil, otherwise the plant will be late with flowering, "mastering the territory". Too large a pot of soil will cause the young homemade balsam to grow into a bush, and he will not have time for flowers. For full bloom, balsam needs a small pot and a moderate amount of soil. Its roots should fill the flowerpot. If I want to get a beautiful bouquet on the windowsill, then I plant 2 balsam cuttings with flowers of different colors in one wide flowerpot. They get along well.

Topping

Pinching is done, for intense flowering (does not fall under this action dwarf varieties balsam). After this process, a neat, branched balsam bush with a lot of flowers is obtained. It is necessary to maintain an aesthetic appearance constantly. Wilted flowers and leaves are removed, which allows the plant to throw out a new color, as well as prevent the attack of pests and various diseases.

If the plant sheds foliage, turns yellow or begins to wilt, then this is the first sign that it has received stress. There was a sharp fluctuation in temperature, the lighting changed, a strong draft or the flower became cramped in the pot. Errors must be corrected immediately.

The procedure is mandatory if you want to achieve abundant flowering (the only exception can be dwarf varieties). At the same time, you get not only more flowers, but also a more compact, branched bush. Also, do not forget to remove faded flowers and dying leaves in time, this not only stimulates flowering, but also protects against various misfortunes in the form of diseases and pests.

In spring, pinch the tops of young stems to stimulate flowering.

Pruning

Usually in the spring, during transplantation, they produce pruning plants. If the balsam has grown too much during the winter, its stems are shortened by half. If the shoots have reached the desired length, their tops are pinched, thus stimulating the emergence and growth of new lateral shoots and dense flowering.

Cropping helps to rejuvenate the plant, and the cut off apical shoots are used for reproduction. Also, to improve the decorative properties of balsam, remove old bare twigs, dying leaves and flowers.

Earth

An important component of caring for indoor balsam is to transplant the plant into properly selected soil and top dressing. Planting the cuttings in a pot (balsamic ones reproduce at home by cuttings) or plant transplantation is performed in early spring before flowering or in autumn after flowering. We take the soil:

  • 1 part of earth and humus,
  • ½ part peat and 1 part sand.

Balsam is planted in a small pot. He does not like volumetric containers, since his roots must completely braid a lump of soil. The faster he does this, the faster he will begin to grow and give flowers. Growth slows down in a large pot.

If there is no small container, then 2-3 cuttings can be planted in one pot at a distance of about 5-6 cm. Plants coexist perfectly with each other.

Balsam is fed as soon as the plant comes out of "hibernation". A potassium-phosphorus mixture is perfect as a fertilizer. It is added to the pot 1 time every 2 weeks of flowering. In winter, you can give nitrogen fertilizers. They will increase the amount of greenery on the stem, only it is worth applying fertilizers in small portions and not often.

Balsam can be propagated and seeds. They are sown at the end of February in a box. The plant will independently provide the owner with the required amount of seeds. Only when collecting them you need to be careful. "Impatient" at the slightest touch (breeze) to a ripe box throws them out.

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Diseases and pests

Balsams rarely suffer from pests, but can be affected by spider mites and aphids.

myflo.ru

  • Balsam is susceptible to the same diseases as most houseplants. But he is especially afraid of the spider mite, which appears due to too dry air. Conclusion: humidify the air and carry out a comprehensive treatment of the plant.
  • Due to excessive moisture in the soil, sciarids can start. In this case, it is better to transplant the plant and observe the watering regime more pedantic.
  • Often, balsams at home begin to dry, curl and fall off the leaves. This can be due to a lack of light or heat, or if the flower becomes cramped in an old pot. Then you need to eliminate the shortcomings of caring for homemade balsam or transplant it into a larger pot.

floristics.info

  • No flowering, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off: not enough light, place the plant in a well-lit place.
  • Leaves fall in winter: low temperatures, move the plant to a warmer place.
  • The root collar is covered with black spots: rotting due to stagnant water, dry the soil and reduce watering.
  • The plant produces many leaves and few flowers: the pot is too large, wait until the pot is full of roots, and avoid high nitrogen fertilizers.
  • White spider web on stems and underside of leaves indicates the presence of a spider mite. Clean the plant from insects with soapy water and increase the humidity.

The plant can also be affected by aphids. If balsam is heavily contaminated, remove insects and spray with soapy water.

webplants.ru

Frequent problems

Like any home plant, balsam is not immune from various diseases and problems.

  • Too high temperature with low humidity does not the best way affects the state of the plant - leaves droop, flowering slows down... The plant needs to recreate optimal conditions for growth, and the flower will restore its original appearance.
  • Excessive watering is very harmful to balsam, as it causes occurrence fungus and mold development... When the first signs appear fungal disease urgent measures must be taken - the flower is taken out of the pot and, having thoroughly shaken off the rhizome from the sour soil, is transplanted into a flowerpot with new, looser soil and a good drainage system.
  • Finding rot on the surface of the soil, it is necessary to replace its top layer. If the disease is started, the chances of saving the plant are minimal.
  • If balsam has flowers fall, it is worth revising the conditions of its containment. The reason for subsidence can be dry air combined with insufficient watering, insufficiently high temperature in the room, poor illumination and an excess of feeding.
  • Lack of lighting can affect the color of the leaves variegated varieties, which, when a deficit of light occurs, becomes pale and expressionless. At the same time, the shoots are significantly extended, which negatively affects the decorative properties of balsam.
  • Weak bloom or its complete absence occurs when the plant lacks nutrients or there is a bias towards nitrogenous fertilizers that stimulate foliage growth. This may also be due to an unreasonably large pot or irregular watering.
  • Often, a plant is affected by a spider mite, which is facilitated by low air humidity. You can get rid of the misfortune with the help of insecticidal solutions.
  • Aphids and whiteflies are other pests, the presence of which destroys the plant. You also need to fight insects with the help of special preparations.

As you can see, balsam - unpretentious plant , but it is worth considering that representatives of balsamic flowers with a dark and bright color of flowers are more hardy than their counterparts with light flowers.

Balsam growers are often called "light", or even "Vanka wet". But in reality, its name is translated differently: "touchy". This name was given to him due to the fact that at the time of seed ripening, the boxes with them burst from the wind.

More than 500 types of balsam are known, among them there are annual and perennial varieties.

Annuals decorate flower beds with white, pink, red and orange flowers... Garden balsam flower is very popular.

Perennials are grown at home, and they can bloom throughout the year. The colors are very different - perhaps there are only blue, yellow and black balsams.

Most often, the following varieties are bred at home:

Balsam Waller- enough tall plant, stems can reach 60 cm. Small leaves are brightly colored, flowers are collected in inflorescences.


Balsam Peters- differs in leaves with a bronze tint. The flowers are bright red.

Iron balsam- there are tight joints near the base of the sheet. An annual variety, can be grown both in the garden and at home. Reaches 1.5-2 m in height. The flowers are pink and scarlet.

New Guinea Balsam- tall strong plant. The flowers of the hybrid are white, red, purple.

The principles of caring for all varieties are general.

Growing features

Balsam can rightfully be called a sissy. If you have purchased this houseplant and want it to delight you regularly beautiful flowers, you will have to comply with a number of conditions.

Balsam loves the sun. Therefore, it is advisable to place the pot near a window facing south. But in summer, when the sun's rays can scorch the delicate leaves, balsam is protected from bright light.

The flower hates cold. In winter, you need to make sure that the leaves do not touch the cold glass, and when airing, remove the balsam away.

The flower pot requires a small one. Otherwise, the balsam will grow, but it will not bloom.

Watering is needed abundant. It is no coincidence that the plant was nicknamed "Vanka wet". The soil should always be moist.

You should look carefully - is the flower sick? Even if only a few leaves are damaged, in the absence of the necessary measures, the disease will immediately spread to the remaining leaves and stems, and the plant will die.

When something is wrong, the flower immediately signals it. The stem is pulled out, the leaves fall off, the flowering stops. Think - what is the balsam lacking and correct the situation.

Home care

To admire as long as possible beautiful flower, a number of conditions must be met.

Ground requirements

It is advisable to plant balsam in a light nutritious soil. You can buy it in a specialized store. Any one designed for flowering plants will do.

If you filled the pot, for example, with earth taken from your site, and it turned out to be heavy and clayey, then there will be few flowers, unlike the leaves.

Requirements are imposed on the amount of soil. Often, beginner growers buy the largest pots so that the plant is "spacious". But the balsam won't be grateful for that. He will begin to build up the root system in order to "master" the entire space, and will cease to bloom. Therefore, choose a compact pot.

Another option is to plant several balsam cuttings of different colors in a large pot. Then, at the time of flowering, a beautiful bouquet will stand on your windowsill.

The plant is fed twice a month.

Optimal conditions of detention

A subtropical plant loves warmth, therefore, it is advisable to maintain a temperature of + 20-25 C in the room. Even in winter, it should not drop below +16 C.

Balsam also needs moist air. This applies to both summer time, when the room is hot, and winter, when the batteries are running. central heating... It is good if there is a vessel with water next to the pot. The moisture will evaporate and maintain the desired microclimate.

As for the choice of location, any window, except for the northern one, is suitable for balsam. The flower is very light-requiring.

Watering a flower

Balsam is very fond of water, and the biggest test for a flower is drought. From this conclusion - there should always be a bottle with settled water at the ready. room temperature.

It is advisable to put drainage at the very bottom of the pot. They do this so that moisture does not stagnate and the roots do not rot. A deep pallet is also required. When watering, make sure that the earthen lump is completely saturated, and the excess moisture is in the pan. You do not need to drain it. Balsam will "drink" this water as needed.

In summer, the plant is watered more often - every other day, in winter, watering is reduced by a third.

Normally, after each watering, small droplets of water appear on the leaves, which then dry out, and "sugar" remains.

If the balsam leaves wither, you can try to water the plant abundantly. In some cases, this helps, and the appearance of the flower improves.

Top dressing and fertilization

In winter, balsam is almost never fed. It is transferred to "enhanced nutrition" in the spring. It is recommended to use fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus. They are applied once every 2 weeks, especially during the period of active flowering.

In the cold season, you can make a little nitrogen dressing. They will not stimulate the bud formation process, but the balsam will give thick foliage and look beautiful.

Trimming

Balsam is pruned throughout its life. If the flower is grown from seed, then, as soon as the seven-lobed leaves appear, pinch the top of the central shoot. Then they begin to develop side shoots, and the balsam will form in such a way that it looks beautiful in a hanging pot.

If you want to form a "tree", you should wait until the stem young plant will not stiffen. Then you can carefully cut off all the lower leaves, and pinch the main shoot. It is advisable to sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal. Over time, lateral shoots will form.

The plant that has undergone pruning is fed with fertilizers. You can use urea, vermicompost.

How to transplant correctly?

Balsam is transplanted in the spring. After that, it seems to come to life: new shoots are formed, flowering begins. If the plant is too stretched in summer, and there are few leaves left, you can transplant it a second time in the fall. This should be done when flowering has already ended.

If you compose the soil yourself, you need to mix in equal parts: garden soil, peat and river sand. Before planting, the soil is watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate to disinfect. If the ready-made soil was purchased in a specialized store, this does not need to be done.

A small pot is chosen, or several plants are planted in a voluminous container at once. It is important that for a short time the roots are completely entwined with an earthen lump - only then can we expect balsam to bloom.

Reproduction of balsam

It will not be difficult to propagate balsam indoors. Even beginner growers can cope with this.

The plant can be grown from seeds. General rules apply to balsam: seeds are planted in a box with any ready-made soil intended for indoor flowers, watered and covered with foil. After the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed, young plants are planted in separate pots.

But this method is more often used in relation to annual balsams, which are to grow in flower beds. Houseplants are usually propagated by cuttings.

The top is cut off from a healthy bush. The length of the cutting with several internodes should be about 10 cm. The cutting is placed in a jar of water (it is advisable that leaves do not get there in order to avoid decay). After about 2 weeks, or even earlier, roots will begin to appear.

After that, the cutting is transplanted into a small pot. Watered as needed with settled water at room temperature. If a plaque appears on the surface of the earth, it means that the water is too hard.

Another breeding option is layering. Choose a strong branch, break off the lowest leaves on it. Then they are grounded by 1/3 part. The soil should be light, loose - it should not be allowed for the surface to be pulled together by a crust.

The soil must be kept moist, periodically loosened. You can cover the layering with a film.

Propagate balsam better in spring, then in the summer it will delight you with flowering.

Disease and pest control

Balsam can get sick quite easily. The spider mite is especially terrible for him. This pest is a companion of drought, so the best preventive measure is to humidify the air in the room and water the flower well.

But excessive moisture is also harmful - sciarids appear in the soil. In this case, the plant is transplanted, watering is reduced.

If the appearance of the leaves is alarming - the color turns pale or the leaves dry, begin to fall off - you need to think about what the plant lacks. Maybe light? Or is the room too cold? Is the pot cramped? An attentive owner will come to the right conclusion and fix the problem.

Balsam is an unusually beautiful plant, and if observed simple rules care will regularly delight you with abundant flowering.