How to insert a socket into a plastic panel. Installing a box under an outlet or switch

Sockets are usually wall-mounted. Although there are cases of installing outlet groups both in the floor (when, according to the design decision, the TV is located in the middle of the room or room) and on the ceiling (if you need to connect a projector or TV hanging from the ceiling on a vertical bracket).

In such cases, the sockets are fixed according to the same principle, only the cable routing to the outlet should be taken into account. The socket itself is mounted in a special box, or an external socket is installed.

Installation of socket boxes in an apartment is carried out during the wiring period. When all the wires in the apartment have already been divorced, and the walls are plastered, all that remains is to install the sockets.

To do this, it is necessary to fix all the socket boxes. The openings for them should already be ready. The openings are drilled with a special metal round nozzle with victorious tips. Then the remnants of concrete are removed with a perforator with a nozzle in the form of a spatula.

The boxes can be fixed with dowels, or you can mix alabaster and grease the openings with it. Before installing the boxes, the wires must be brought inside.

After doing such actions, it remains to connect the sockets. To do this, we strip the wires and insert them into the socket terminals. Modern wiring basically has three wires (phase, zero, ground). We connect the phase and zero to the terminal blocks and clamp, and the ground to the bus.

We install the socket into the socket of the box and, using a screwdriver, open them. When the base of the socket is in place, it remains to screw the covers.

Plasterboard walls are a modern and lightweight material for installing partitions in an apartment or in a house. Accordingly, there are technologies for pulling wires in these walls and installing electrical outlets.

Fastening boxes for drywall sockets are specific. It doesn't look like boxes made for concrete walls. The fastener consists of two screw-shaped rods, at the end of which there are small plates.

The principle of operation of the fastener provides for the fixation of the box as a result of the movement of the plate along the rod upward. The plate movement is activated by turning the rods using a screwdriver.

Before installing the box on a plasterboard wall, wires are inserted into it. When the box is securely clamped in the partition, a socket or socket group consisting of multiple outlets is installed.

The phase and zero wires are clamped into the terminals, and the ground wire is attached to the bus inside the socket. The ground wire is usually yellow or yellow-green in color.

The base of the socket is clamped in the box using spacers with a screwdriver. Then it remains to install the cover on the socket by tightening the screw in the center of the socket.

Plastic panels are used as interior finishing material. They are used for installation on walls in kitchens, bathrooms, corridors. Plastic panels can be of various colors and sizes.

To install an outlet on plastic panels, you must:

• - the place of installation of the socket on the plastic panel must be outlined with a marker, measuring its exact location using a tape measure;
• - then you need to de-energize the room where the panels with the socket are installed;
• - we install the box under the outlet. Do not forget to put the wires inside the box. We fix the box itself in the wall so that it becomes on the same level with the panels;
• - to install the socket on a plastic panel, cut out the marked place with a sharp knife or hacksaw. If the house has a round plastic crown, you can use it;
• - the plastic panel must be installed on the frame;
• - after installing the plastic panel, install the socket;
• - remove the top cover from the socket by unscrewing the fastening screw;
• - we put wires in the lower base of the socket, install them in the terminal blocks and clamp them;
• - we install the socket into the box, unclamping the expanding fasteners;
• - it remains to fix the upper part of the socket to the installation site.

How to install a socket in a PVC panel? The installation process is simple and does not require any special qualifications. The advantage of plastic panels is:

• ease of installation;
• easily hides wall irregularities and external electrical wiring;
• do not require additional care; moisture resistant.

Installation process in PVC panels

To complete the installation you will need:

• socket (preferably made of metal);
• socket (preferably external).

Installation of sockets in PVC panels is carried out as follows:

1. It is recommended to use a crown for the socket hole.

2. Then a crown is used, a recess is made. Lamellas, more often, are attached to the crate, 3 cm of centimeters need to be pulled out of the socket box.

3. Then the wires are connected.

Installation of external sockets is easier: the wire is removed, the markings are made in the right place, drilled through the lamellae, dowels are driven in, the thickness of the crate and plastic lamellas is taken into account, the screws are screwed in, then the wires are connected, at the end the cover is attached.

In the same way, you can install the outlet on the balcony in the PVC panel.

The socket box is a metal, and more often - a plastic glass, into which a socket or switch is installed during electrical work. The installation of this product is not difficult, but for each of the wall materials (brick, concrete, gypsum or wood), the installation will have its own nuances. Next, we will tell you how to install a socket in a concrete, brick, wood and plasterboard wall, providing illustrative photo examples, video instructions and a brief description of each technology.

What to look for before installation

Before you decide to install the product in the wall, you need to choose the right type of socket. To date, the following types of so-called cups for sockets and switches are on sale:

Having chosen the appropriate version of the product, you can proceed to the preparatory work, which we will now talk about!

Preparing for the sidebar

So, in order to install the socket box with your own hands, you must first of all prepare the following set of materials and tools:

1. Perforator or electric drill;
2. Crown for plaster, brick or concrete (depending on which wall will be channeled) or a victorious drill;
3. Building level;
4. Marker;
5. Spatula and plaster putty (if drywall or wood, then it is not necessary);
6. Chisel and hammer.

Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to installing the socket into the wall. Now we will briefly look at how to insert and fix a glass under a socket in each of the existing wall options.

Installation technologies

In concrete and brick

If you need to install a socket in a concrete or brick wall, then you need to proceed as follows:

1. Make markings on the surface using a building level and a marker in accordance with the wiring diagram in the house. can be chosen at its discretion, the norms of SNiP and GOST are not specified at this moment. All you need is to put a cross in a suitable place (the center of the future hole), lean the socket box in the center and circle it with a marker.
   
2. Using a hammer drill and a suitable bit, drill the groove 4-5 mm deeper than the height of the glass you are going to install. If there is no special cutter at hand, just drill a group of holes in a circle with a drill with a victorious drill and knock out the core with a chisel and hammer. Another way is to carefully make a square hole with a grinder with a diamond disc.
   
   
   
   
3. When you manage to make a round strobe, clean it from the inside, then try on the socket box so that it fits well into the seat and there are no further difficulties with installation. Immediately cut a hole in it for the wire entry and bring the wires inside.
   
   
   
4. Dilute the solution in order to smudge the box into a concrete or brick wall. A good mortar can be made from gypsum plaster, alabaster and water.
   
5. Moisten the hole and spatula with a spatula inside the solution, as shown in the photo. After that, carefully fix the glass flush with the wall, while ensuring that the screws on the sides are located strictly parallel to the floor (otherwise the socket cannot be installed evenly).
   
6. Smear the edges and remove excess solution to keep the glass clean and ready for further electrical work after the putty has set.
   
   

In such a simple way, you can independently install a socket in a wall made of brick, concrete, foam block or even aerated concrete. Be sure to watch the video instructions provided below to see clearly the whole essence of installation.

Video tutorial on fixing a block of glasses in a monolith

In drywall

It is much easier to fix the socket in the plasterboard partition. Here you no longer need to dilute the solution and knock out the core of the groove with a chisel. As we said earlier, there is a special glass with presser feet that easily fix the socket in the drywall.

In order to install the glass yourself in a plaster wall, you need to do the following:

1. Apply markings on the surfaces by analogy with the previous technology. We examined in detail the layout of the plasterboard wall when we talked about.
2. Cut a hole in the bottom for wires and insert the product inside the groove.
3. Tighten the screws on the sides until the box is firmly fixed inside.

How to mount a socket in drywall

That's all you need to do to install the socket into a drywall wall with your own hands. As you can see, everything is very simple and even a beginner in electrics can install the product. We draw your attention to the fact that if the gypsum partition is additionally tiled with tiles, you need to act a little differently. The video below provides a technology for attaching a glass under a ceramic tile.

How to install on tiles

The second way to make a block of outlets in a tile

An integral part of any major renovation is the installation of outlets. According to all the rules, at this stage, a socket box is required, which is one of the main installation elements and is a guarantee of safety.

It is mounted directly into the wall, followed by wiring and connecting the socket to the mains. If necessary, this simple element of the electrical field allows you to repair or replace the socket.

Socket boxes and their purpose

Not many people know what a socket is and what it is for. This question may arise only when it is necessary to repair with a change of wiring. But the solution to the problem usually depends on experienced builders. Small repairs with the change of installation boxes for sockets can be done independently.

The socket is usually represented by an original glass made of metal or plastic, fixed in a hole made in the wall. Required for the internal location of the socket mechanism. Switches are also installed in it. From above, the entire structure is closed with a decorative frame, which makes the socket boxes invisible to the eye, therefore, not everyone knows about them.

And not everyone understands why you can't just put the outlet directly into the wall without a box. First of all, this is necessary for the socket complex to be assembled efficiently and work perfectly.

Other purposes of socket boxes include:

1. Guaranteed firm fixation of socket mechanisms, switches and similar devices. The fastening function is usually performed by the socket screws or the spacer lugs of the installed devices.
2. Acts as an additional dielectric insulator between the outlet (switch) and the wall of the room.
3. Execution of the distribution function boxes when installing electrical wiring without it.
4. Implementation of additional protection against accidental fire.

In order for the installation box for sockets and switches to comply with the listed functions, you should choose responsibly. For the future, this will serve as a guarantee of the uninterrupted operation of devices and the electrical network.

Choosing boxes for sockets correctly

Boxes designed to accommodate sockets and similar devices are divided into several varieties. Such a classification is necessary for their competent installation with the subsequent implementation of the above purposes.

There are a number of classification parameters, among which several main ones should be distinguished.

By type of surface to be installed

Socket boxes are required for installation in different rooms, made of different materials. It can be brick, concrete, foam blocks or aerated concrete.

According to this parameter, their design may differ in some way. For example, a drywall box has additional feet for secure fixing.

By material of manufacture

The socket boxes are plastic or metal. To install the box, the first option is usually used, which has a large assortment of models and shapes:

1. Round - are widespread. It is easy to make a hole in the wall for them and select the necessary groups of devices for installation.
2. Oval - they are distinguished by the presence of a large amount of space, which allows you to make a supply of wire necessary for mounting devices and the disconnection process. If necessary, you can purchase boxes that can accommodate up to 5 mechanisms.
3. Square - have a large supply of space for wires and allow the installation of elements of dimmers, "smart home" and a number of other devices. They can accommodate up to 4 mechanisms.

Metal sockets are not widespread, since they are conductors of electric current. But this is an option for houses made of wood.

By the number of outlets

Single boxes designed for the installation of single sockets are in demand. But boxes for placing 2, 3 and 4 sockets are also gaining popularity. The distance (center-to-center) in such socket-outlets is 71 mm in accordance with the standards.

It is customary to subdivide boxes by size - inner diameter and depth (40 - 60 mm). Additionally, there is a mounting diameter (60, 64 and 68 mm). The best choice is the socket, which has a diameter of 68 mm and a depth of 42 mm. If routing is required without distribution boxes, a depth of 60 mm is appropriate.

List of required tools

When carrying out large-scale repair work, the necessary list of tools is usually at hand. But even minor repairs require a preliminary selection of tools.

To mount the socket, the liver of the necessary tools must be presented as follows:

1. Level with pencil and compasses. Necessary for marking on the walls and subsequent alignment of the block of boxes for sockets (if necessary, installation).
2. Drill. Required to make holes for boxes. You will need crowns for drilling with a drill - if they are not available, a drill for concrete will do. In the absence of a drill, a punch or grinder will do.
3. A hammer with a chisel. It will be needed at the stage of forming holes for knocking out extra pieces of the wall.
4. Spray. It will be needed during drilling for watering the crown, prevent cracking of tiles and prevent dust from flying.
5. Spatula (trowel). Necessary at the stage of fastening boxes.

Additionally, you will need a solution of alabaster, cement or gypsum to securely fix the boxes in the wall. Dowels are often needed for this purpose. Do not forget about the socket boxes, the availability of which must be ensured before starting to perform the listed actions.

Installation of socket outlets in rooms made of various materials

The process of installing the box should be treated responsibly, since the reliability of fixing the sockets with subsequent work directly depends on this.

Depending on the material of the walls, the mounting procedure has some characteristic differences.

Concrete

Concrete is one of the most common materials for the walls of premises, therefore, the installation of socket boxes in this case has been worked out to the smallest detail:

1. Implementation of markup. A serious stage, especially when mounting several socket boxes, where the same level of arrangement is especially important.
2. Making holes. The diameter of the holes for the sockets must exceed the diameter of the socket to be installed by 5 mm. This is most easily accomplished with a crown or a victorious tip. It is necessary to drill holes along the perimeter of the marked circle and knock out the inner part (in the absence of a punch and a drill, you can use a grinder), making rectangular holes in the wall, covering the corners with mortar.
3. Fitting the box. A competent installation must be flush, so do not forget to check how freely the cables pass through the holes prepared in advance.
4. Installation process. You need to put a layer of putty into the hole so that the glass will fit. After mounting, it is necessary to leave everything for a few minutes for the mortar to set, after which you need to remove the unnecessary part of it from the wall.

In case of insufficient fixation, it is necessary to additionally secure the socket box with dowels.

Brick

Mounting boxes for sockets in masonry is similar to installing in concrete, but there are a number of nuances.

The boxes should be installed flush on the outside of the wall. It should be noted that an additional layer of plaster will be laid on the wall, and sometimes tiles (kitchen, bathroom). It will be difficult to calculate in advance how many mm the socket should be pulled out of the wall or tile.

You can use the following scheme:

• perform a deepening (diamond, victorious);
• hide the wire in the hole and close it with a cover (for example, made of cardboard);
• putty the wall, remembering the location of the future outlet (if necessary, lay the tiles);
• proceed to the first stage of mounting the socket box (after the tile glue and plaster has dried), carefully drilling holes in the desired coordinates.

The subsequent stages of installation should be carried out by analogy with the installation of socket outlets in concrete.

Gas silicate

When mounting the socket outlets in gas silicate blocks, it is worth preparing for a large amount of dust. You need to use a vacuum cleaner.

Since plaster, putty for painting or wallpaper are used in the decoration of walls made of gas silicate, the stage-by-stage implementation of the installation of the socket boxes is similar to that when they are installed in the walls of bricks. The only caveat is that the holes should be made with a drill with an inventory drill. A hammer drill should not be used.

Depending on the material, the installation process will differ. The most important thing is to fulfill all safety requirements.

Installation of boxes in PVC and MDF panels and not only

The variety of materials used in modern construction is amazing.

It is worth knowing about some of the nuances of each material in order to competently carry out the process of mounting the socket boxes.

Drywall

When installing boxes in plasterboard walls, a punch and mortar are not required. The work will be carried out several times faster in comparison with the installation of socket outlets in the walls of a concrete component or brick.

It is necessary to purchase special boxes with additional legs to provide better attachment to the drywall sheet. After completing the marking, holes can be made with a drill with a crown or with an ordinary drill. Then you need to bring out the wire and thread it into the socket, then insert it into the hole. On it, tighten the bolts from the adjustment tabs.

If there is a risk of the box falling out of the hole, you can first glue a sheet of plywood or other dense and non-crumbling material to the drywall from the inside. All other steps (connecting the socket mechanism) are standard.

Wood

Concealed wiring in a house made mostly of wood is not cheap. According to the requirements of the PUE, the installation wire should never come into contact with the tree.

Standard plastic sockets are not suitable as there is a risk of fire. The only option is iron, capable of withstanding an arc of electricity in case of a short circuit.

During the installation process, the wires should be laid in iron pipes, and the joints with the socket outlet should be carefully sealed. Do not forget about grounding, for which you will need to additionally weld a fastening bolt to the ends of the pipes converging in the box. For additional protection, the bottom of the holes can be laid with asbestos.

PVC and MDF panels

Modern window sills or loggias are often made of polyvinyl chloride and act as a place for installing outlets.

To carry out this process quickly, you need to purchase boxes for sockets with spacer legs. For additional fasteners, you should buy self-tapping screws. During the assembly phase, the supply cable must be laid in advance.

The holes for the flush mounts in the panels are made in advance using a crown (diameter 68 mm). They should be strictly in size so that the socket fits rather tightly. Then you need to pull the cable through the prepared holes and connect the socket terminals. The panels can then be attached to the main location. It is necessary to try to ensure that the socket is close to the wall.

When installing a whole complex of devices, always adhere to a distance between the sockets of 71 mm. To maintain this distance to a millimeter, you can make an original template yourself. To do this, you need to take any hard material (pipe profile, aluminum frame) and mark in the center of the rib, where the socket boxes will be attached.

To this end, you need to find the center with a tape measure and mark the line with a pencil. Along the finished line, you need to drill holes with a drill for metal. Then you need to measure the distance between the holes of the box with a tape measure and drill the second point in accordance with it. Make holes in the same way for the rest of the boxes. In order not to make so many manipulations, you can simply purchase a stencil for the box.

Conclusion

A glass for an outlet greatly facilitated the process of installing various electrical outlets. Allows you to easily mount the sockets into the wall, so they will be almost invisible. This allows them to harmoniously fit into the interior of the premises and serves as a guarantee of safety.

If necessary, socket outlets allow you to repair electrical outlets or replace them. They have become widespread and have become an integral part of the direct process of mounting electrical outlets.

In the rooms of our apartments and houses, hidden electrical wiring is laid and everything sockets and switches are installed inside the wall... In order to hide the entire mechanism, and so that only the lid or keys remain on top, it is necessary to stick or install plastic mounting boxes under them (often called socket boxes), which serve to fix sockets and switches in them and isolate wires and contacts from the wall.

Please note that this work must be done simultaneously with the electrical wiring before starting the wall decoration.

The process of installing the socket boxes is quite simple. and you can easily do it yourself. Depending on the type of building material, it is necessary to choose one of two principles for installing junction boxes:

1. For walls made of wood, plasterboard, PVC, MDF panels, etc., it is necessary to cut a hole with a special crown and then insert a socket into it and press it against the wall using self-tapping screws with paws.
2. And in brick, concrete, silicate walls, boxes are fixed on a quick-drying solution of gypsum, alabaster, gypsum plaster, etc.

Installation of a socket box in concrete, brick, gas silicate.

It is necessary to make a hole for it using a punch or drill and a special crown (in the picture below).

I recommend buying crown with a diameter of 68 mm... Or 70 millimeters for SDS-plus concrete. It is suitable for all types of walls, in contrast to the brick crown, which is intended only for drilling in non-solid building materials.

Before drilling, you need to make a markup using a tape measure and a pencil - I just mark the center under the drill bit throughout the apartment at the same distance from the floor if it is even.

Remember that when drilling with a crown the hammer drill or hammer drill only needs to be switched to drilling mode, and not combined with chiselling.

If you need to smudge one or more boxes, then you can do without crowns and drill holes under them with a drill and knock out a niche of the required size along the outlined contour. In this case, the markup is made by outlining the contour of the socket box with a small margin. And on the sides of the knocked-out holes, in all rooms at the same distance from the floor, I draw the center of the sockets or switches along the level. I am guided by these marks during the subsequent lubrication of the mounting boxes.

If you need to install not a single outlet, but for example a block consisting of 2, 3 or 4 electrical outlets or in combination with telephone, TV or computer ones, then you need to buy a specially designed one-piece double, triple or quadruple block of boxes (examples in the picture below. )

I mostly use single junction boxes at work.(top left in the picture), which can be made into blocks by inserting one into the grooves of the other. But for those who are not a professional electrician, I do not recommend doing this, because without experience it is very difficult to smudge such blocks, because they bend. Take a solid block for several places, believe me, this greatly simplifies the process and allows you to quickly and evenly smudge!

After the hole is ready, we check that the mounting box fits freely in it, hides flush with the wall. We knock out a hole on the side or on the back wall and put a cable or wires into it.

We take and breed a plaster or alabaster mixture for several places or one block, because these mixtures dry quickly. In my practice, when you need to cover up a large number of boxes I spread tile adhesive or gypsum plaster ROTBAND in a bucket(Rotband), which do not dry up for up to an hour. And this allows you to smudge more than a dozen socket outlets on one batch.

Before filling the hole with mortar, moisten it with water. Then a box is pressed into the filled hole, which should rise to the level of the wall.

The main thing to consider here is that it's better to drown it a little deeper than if it was sticking out even a millimeter. It is important to observe this so that the socket would then fit snugly against the wall during installation. In addition, make sure that the holes for the screws or the places for the sliding legs, with which the socket or switch is attached, are on a vertical or horizontal level, otherwise they will become crooked during subsequent installation. A small skew is easily leveled, but a large one is not.