How to make a small wooden table. How to make a dining table: ideas, materials, step-by-step instructions, photos and videos
The dacha is, of course, the place where you want to take a break from the bustle of the city, to breathe Fresh air and just drink fragrant herbal tea on the veranda at the table made for giving with your own hands. Such a table will not only add special charm to such a simple ceremony, but will also become a source of pride for you and your loved ones.
Option 1. Table with legs
When choosing materials for the table, first of all, you should pay attention to the quality of the wood - not all wood is suitable for use. Conifers such as spruce and pine are malleable and easy to work with, but without proper treatment, such material is more flammable, and the resin emitted can ruin the tablecloth.
Hardwoods (aspen, oak, ash) are more advantageous, products made from them are strong, durable and have an attractive appearance.
| Wood species | Brinell hardness) | Density (kg / m3) | Stability | Color change trends |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Birch | 3,0 | 600 | average | the color gets deeper |
| Larch | 2,6 | 500 | good | takes on shades of gray |
| European oak | 3,7 | 700 | good | the color gets deeper |
| 4,0 | 700 | average | light to straw, yellowish brown | |
| Pear | 3,3 | 680 | average | blushes |
| Cherry | 3,0 | 580 | good | from light pink to deep reddish shade |
Materials and tools
For the interior arrangement of summer cottages and country houses, long narrow ones are more acceptable, allowing you to freely move around the room. This should be taken into account when preparing everything you need for work and designing the table itself.
For the table, it is preferable to use a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm. This thickness will ensure the strength of the table and the ability to withstand heavy loads. The optimal length ranges from 150-200 cm. You can purchase two ready-made wooden boards measuring 30-2000 mm.
Balusters or wooden legs for the legs. Curly balusters will give a homemade table a production chic and luxurious look. And for the manufacture of legs from a bar, you need to choose boards with a minimum section of 50x50 mm. A comfortable table height is ensured with a leg height of approximately 73-75 cm.
Other materials and tools.
- Boards 20 mm thick and 8-10 cm wide for the tabletop frame.
- Wood putty.
- Screwdriver and self-tapping screws for 30 and 50 mm.
- Various grit sandpaper and holder.
- Clamps for fixing legs and table top.
- Electric drill.
- Sander.
- Building level.
- Square.
- Roulette or centimeter.
- Marker.
- Glue.
Prices for various types of construction timber
Construction beam
Manufacturing steps
When preparing materials, all boards and beams are processed with a plane, grinder or coarse-grained sandpaper to remove irregularities, the remnants of cut knots, clean up cracks. Boards must be flat and smooth, so they are sanded from all sides, including ends, edges and corners.
If it is supposed to be made with a one-piece shield without gaps, then it is better to purchase tongue-and-groove materials - this will create a stronger adhesion of a single sheet and save time for adjusting the elements. Chamfers are cut from the edges of the legs for the legs.
Assembling the frame for the countertop
The frame helps to strengthen the strength and stability of the table, its dimensions completely depend on the parameters of the table top, but there are several general rules: both in length and in width, the frame should be 30-25 cm less than the table top.
Video - DIY garden table
The frame itself is assembled from 4 boards that form the outer frame, and 6 inner transverse slats. The boards are installed on the edge at a right angle using a square and tightened with self-tapping screws 50 mm. The joints are pre-coated with glue (PVA or woodwork). To prevent the boards from splitting, pilot holes can be drilled into them and only then the screws can be screwed in.
Along the length of the frame, markings are made for the transverse strips, and guides are drilled. It is very important that the cross members are strictly perpendicular to both sides of the frame frame. The ends of the transverse strips are coated with glue, and the entire structure is fixed with self-tapping screws. Make sure that the heads of the screws do not protrude, but are completely "sunk" in the wood.
Table frame (manufacturing option) The boards of the table top are connected, leveled with a tape measure and laid on the floor face down, the frame is placed on top so that the cross bars lie tightly on the table top. Guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the strips, and all elements are tightened with screws by 30 mm. There are 5-6 self-tapping screws for each transverse board.
Assembling the table legs
The table top is laid on a workbench or several stools for subsequent installation of the legs. The table leg is fixed in the corner of the frame with clamps, and guides for self-tapping screws are drilled in the frame.
Before attaching the legs, glue is applied to the end of the bar - this will protect the table from loosening and will contribute to greater strength. It is recommended to fix the leg on each side with four screws, but if you wish, you can additionally use metal corners. Round balusters are fixed with long self-tapping screws from the front side of the table, and square ones - with corner fasteners.
Prices for popular models of screwdrivers
Screwdrivers
Finishing
After mounting the legs, the table is turned over and placed on the floor. Depending on the design of the table, the corners are sawn off along the radius with a jigsaw or the butt is completely rounded off. Chamfers can be cut from the edges of the tabletop and everything can be carefully sanded.
If necessary, scratches and cracks resulting from work are repaired with wood. It is better not to touch the screw heads in order to be able to tighten the structure.
After the final grinding, all dust and shavings are removed from the table, and the product itself is covered with stain or several layers of varnish.
Tables with elements of decoupage decor or single painting look beautiful and unusual. But hiding the beauty of natural wood under a layer of paint is not worth it, modern varnishes and impregnations will do the whole necessary work to protect the product from moisture.
Video - Table on legs for a summer residence
Option 2. Stump table
An unusual and non-standard way to equip a backyard space is to create interior items from natural materials. When ennobling the territory, old trees or trees that threaten buildings are often cut down. If at your dacha there is or was just such a tree, then definitely there will be no problems with finding a suitable stump. If the idea came spontaneously, then you can look for the desired stump in clearings, in the nearest forest, or ask the owners of neighboring plots.
Materials and tools
To make such a fantasy table from a stump, you need very little:
- wood for the countertop, the recommended thickness of the countertop is from 20 mm, when choosing boards you need to adhere to the rule "the larger the countertop, the larger the cut of the board";
- stump. For work, you will need a dried stump of any type of wood, the main thing is that the wood is whole, not damp or rotten. If the tree has been cut recently, then the stump must be properly dried. And it's best to do this by placing the stump in a warm, dry place or outdoors in sunny weather. It must be remembered that a few weeks is not enough time for high-quality drying. Typically, the entire process takes at least two months. You can determine the state of the wood by the ease of separation of the bark - if the bark leaves without effort, then you can start working;
- water-based varnish for wood, natural shade or transparent. It is this composition that will best emphasize the texture and dignity of natural wood;
- sandpaper of various grit and holder;
- planer or sander;
- chisel;
- building level;
- roulette;
- hammer and nails;
- screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
- abrasive fiber.
Manufacturing steps
Stage 1.
The dried workpiece of the future table must be cleaned of the bark. A chisel or chisel is useful for this step. It is necessary to remove the bark very carefully and carefully so as not to damage the wood and prevent the appearance of cracks and splits. Any soft and rotten areas should be removed as well.
Stage 2.
After the bark has been removed, the stump needs to be aligned with the horizontal plane. For this, a level surface is prepared using a level, and the base of the future table is installed on it.
If curvature is observed, then the flaws are eliminated using a planer. At the same stage of work, unnecessarily large rhizomes of the stump and all unnecessary parts are sawn off with a hacksaw, the sections from which are then sanded.
Stage 3.
The leveled stump is sanded with a disc grinder, especially its horizontal parts. The sides of the stump are also sanded, and hard-to-reach places processed with coarse sandpaper. This is a rather laborious process that requires a significant investment in time.
Stage 4.
Cracks and grooves in the barrel must be cleaned of dirt and debris with a chisel, after which sandpaper folded in half (working layer outward) with sandpaper should be carefully processed from the inside. The remains of wood dust are cleaned with a brush or a construction vacuum cleaner.
Stage 5.
To prevent the stump from rotting and to ensure air circulation between the table and the floor, furniture legs can be attached to the base from below. The presence of the legs will make it more convenient to move the table.
You can choose any legs: metal, furniture wheels or special rubberized supports. It is best to fasten them with self-tapping screws to the base of the stump, the number is chosen arbitrarily, based on the size of the table.
Stage 6.
After installing the legs, proceed to the sheathing of the upper part of the stump. To do this, we stuff two parallel strips perpendicularly onto the sidewalls, and on top there are two more rows of holders - a total of 6 strips fastened together with nails. This will be the frame for the countertop.
Stage 7.
We fasten the prepared tabletop boards from below with transverse strips. The shape of the table top can be very diverse: round, rectangular, with rounded corners. The option of a table with a round or oval table top looks more advantageous.
To give such a shape, you can use a homemade device made of thread, pencil and nail: the end of the thread is tied around a pencil, and the tip of the nail is placed in the middle of the tabletop, outlining a circle with a selected radius, after which all unnecessary is sawn off, and the edges and surface of the tabletop are processed with a grinding machine.
Stage 8.
Holes and imperfections in the boards can be decorated with finely chopped shiny stones, filling them with varnish and processing them again after drying with a grinder to smooth the surface.
The finished worktop is fixed from below on the crate with nail holders or self-tapping screws.
The finished table is varnished in several layers. After applying the first layer, the product is thoroughly dried and processed with fine-grained sandpaper. This will prevent the varnish from peeling off, and subsequent layers will lay down more evenly.
After removing the dust, the second and subsequent layers of varnish are applied without grouting. Optionally, after drying last layer can be treated with abrasive fibers - this will remove excess shine and give the surface a matte finish.
Such a creative table will decorate any veranda, especially in a pleasant frame of green bushes or flower beds.
Prices for paints and varnishes
paints and varnishes
Video - Do-it-yourself table for a summer residence from a stump
Beech is quite often used by furniture manufacturers, as it is a hard breed that is quite plastic and durable. In terms of strength, beech is not inferior to oak. Compared to oak, beech is cheaper. The color of such wood can be from reddish-brown to pinkish-yellow.
- has high decorative qualities;
- dries quickly;
- easy to handle.
- afraid of moisture;
- poorly polished.
Oak is a hard species with high strength values. The natural color of oak stretches from yellowish white to yellowish brown with light shade gray or green. Oak has a number of other advantages - it is very easy to use, easily glued, practically does not rot and has a beautiful appearance.
- despite the high viscosity of wood, it is processed quite well;
- bends easily;
- resistant to decay;
- lends itself well to methods of artificial aging.
- price;
Ash wood is harder than oak. The color of the wood is light and soft golden. Most often it is used in the manufacture of bent and carved furniture or as veneer.
- bends well after steaming;
- little cracking during drying;
- when discolored, it acquires an unusual shade of gray hair.
- in humid conditions, wood is quickly damaged by a wormhole;
- poorly polished.
Aspen is a deciduous tree. It belongs to the Poplar family. This is very large tree, it grows up to 30 meters in height and may well reach a thickness of 1 meter. Since it grows very quickly, a lot of wood is obtained from it.
- very high moisture resistance;
- the ability to retain heat, but not give it away;
- bactericidal (you can put such furniture in the children's room without fear that it will harm).
- not very presentable appearance;
- the possibility of darkening, both partially and completely;
- it is worth fearing that the product may begin to rot from the inside.
Pine is a soft wood that is most often used in the manufacture of frames for upholstered or cabinet furniture. The main advantage of this type of wood is its high resistance to decay, humidity and temperature extremes. In addition, pine is one of the most common and affordable materials.
- ease of handling;
- easy to stick together;
- a pleasant medicinal smell that produces phytoncides.
- easily scratched and damaged.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining room, utility table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, on the territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But many people do not like purchased products for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Considering that the tree is relatively easy to cut, polish, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, it is not a problem for a good owner with your own hands. And it will come out much cheaper. Plus - the satisfaction of such work.
Premises
Ideally, this is an extension, a shed, an empty garage, although a small covered area will do. Working with wood in the open air means completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are suitable for the manufacture of furniture " square meters", Then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, you can work in an enclosed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including on the sample with which some action is performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention impregnation and topcoat paint and varnish) cannot be obtained.
One cannot but take into account the fact that many preparations used for processing wood contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Instruments
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to "refine" a simple structure of wood, what shape it should be given, and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the grace of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more "delicate" work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, you will need special devices.
El / jigsaw. It will not be possible to make an inclined vertical cut with an ordinary saw, keeping the angle exactly. The canvas will "play", and therefore the quality of work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in application, and it also gives high precision cutting wood or cutouts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if making furniture is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnating and other compositions
Rotting protection:
- Dealing with engine oil is an effective and free tool. But not for dining tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deeply into the structure of the tree and protects it from mold and mildew. The downside is the high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, in contrast to working off.
- Water-polymer emulsion. It is characterized by long-term action and health safety.
- Acrylic varnishes. They have practically supplanted their predecessors of the "NC" category, since they are harmless and in many respects better than compositions that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More information on joinery -.
For decorating a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect materials from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the wood, shade it.
- Stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (tinting).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and of any shade. It is enough only to correctly determine the proportion of the components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to the rejected board. This will help you find an acceptable tone. It is more than advisable, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All advice on assembling a wooden table with nails (argumentation - simple, fast and cheap) is better to ignore. The reasons are as follows:
- The nail pricks easily dry wood(and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- It is rather difficult to correctly direct its leg (strictly vertically). In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your mistake.
- The tree, even the most protected from rot, succumbs to it over time. The maintainability of a table knocked down by nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if glue alone is not enough, only self-tapping screws should be used.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. Strengthening the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg is impractical. The reason is the same - the likelihood of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, staples, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone is guided by the cost of lumber, another is important the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend for a novice furniture maker? Do not use for a table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in a utility room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of construction or repairs and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if you don't have enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table in life (chair, stool) is just a kind of training in making, gaining experience.
Table top. Here, strength and minimum moisture absorption are in the first place. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. Optimal choice- pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertops are small, then wood-based panel products (, OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid hits the table surface. For example, laminated chipboard.
Low-grade sawn timber is not used in the furniture industry. This is not economically feasible, as pre-treatment of the wood increases the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left over after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not only because it's free or relatively cheap. With a competent approach, many disadvantages of such wood can be turned into advantages. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the tabletop takes on a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, knots falling out and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humps. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged alternately (the top is down, the next one is up); radial cutting - the same (arcs in one direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is precisely the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During wood shrinkage, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly become warped, and you will have to repair it. And here you need to decide - to purchase high drying wood or to rid it of moisture on your own. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second is cheaper, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- First, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place of storage of blanks. Changes in its value will lead to uneven moisture evaporation, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, there must be good ventilation.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; even in this case it takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make furniture out of wood for the first time, you should focus on the simplest table for household needs made of cheap lumber, without claims to its sophistication and originality of the design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly- a creative process. In this case, stereotypes do not exist, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, specificity of manufacturing - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wood tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, for small utility rooms, it is worth choosing designs whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, camping, suspended, garden, level and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing, as magazine tables for installation in living rooms intended purpose, are made stationary, that is, unchanged dimensions. These assemblies are more "solid", since all mating parts are rigidly fixed; no swivel joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, it means that he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. It is not necessary to teach such a home craftsman the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be worth noting. These notes will only help in the process.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the fastening of the parts is done by landing on the adhesive (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders", which are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the joints. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available in any furniture showroom in several standard sizes. Grinding them, even having a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for dismountable connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level shelving, etc.).
It is not worth using nails to fix the table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - the "shuttle" will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On kings
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be disassembled either periodically, or without this it cannot be transferred through the doorway. Although not all drawers involve dismantling the structure. The most commonly used options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden furniture or furniture installed in outbuildings; for household tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
To make the self-tapping screw easy to screw in and "go" in the desired direction, a hole is made at the point of its installation with a drill slightly smaller in diameter than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to avoid skewing. In this case, you can do without a screwdriver to "land" the self-tapping screw.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a plane is used first, an abrasive with a coarse grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done many times. Much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi can "stand up". Nothing wrong with that. Wait until the workpiece dries and repeat abrading it. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of exterior decoration
- Small defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty compound.
- After sanding is complete, remove all wood dust. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate attachment will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely start applying stain or varnish - there will be no "pellets" on the wood.
- You can add originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the table top or legs, a combination of texture different breeds etc. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. The work on self-production of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage of mastering the skill of a "constructor-assembler". Having worked out technologies, methods on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made from even the simplest drawing (besides the pleasure of work and the saved money) are obvious - not wasted time.
The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article, we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry work, which in the future may turn out to be much more important. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.
The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.
You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15 different ways including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble... However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.
Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular tabletops or with rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and must be served over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.
Dimensions and ergonomics
The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.
The bottom line is the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m.However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than some deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it is convenient for the eaters.
The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of it is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is in the "microkitchen" or kitchen area It is also permissible to make a small-sized odnushki wall-mounted folding, see below. But optimal dimensions the countertops of the kitchen table are considered (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.
What to do
The traditional kitchen table is on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the tsars are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. In this case, a tabletop is needed durable and not of any suitable for pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.
The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from the commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.
No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to implement them in design high class(item 4) requires well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require more material consumption, but they undeniable advantage- they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).
Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But when completely self-production such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.
Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. First, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry on the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising, design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.
Wall folding tables (pos. 7) are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.
Technological subtleties and innovations
The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.
Table top
This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen the best option- buy ready-made postforming worktops, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:
Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:
How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:
How to make a kitchen countertop:
How to make a table top from wood end cuts:
In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the tough oligarchs will salivate.
Dowels, confirmations and dowels
Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.
It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and you cannot redo an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but does not require any special skills. the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.
Details made of laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:
- Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
- The diameter of the confirmation body without a thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
- The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
- The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
- The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
- Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
- It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
- Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.
In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:
- By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
- There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
- We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
- We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.
And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a hat and different types corrugations on a long recessed and short protruding part, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.
Different tables
Classic
Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the kitchen table drawers is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.
It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.
Table top classic table with detachable legs should be from 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or from 30 mm (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe at the same time with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon become loose.
Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly with the help of ordinary wood screws. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.
The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.
Desk drawer
A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load in this case is not expected, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.
The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often attached furniture stapler but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.
To install the box in the table, an opening is cut out in the longitudinal front sidewall to size cross section drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, pushing the box into place, that's all.
Quite simple
A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Any tabletop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.
Beam
Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.
In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower dressing (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beamed kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:
Video: do-it-yourself table by component
The table, the drawings of which are below in the fig., Has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second - only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it itself can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.
Without a tabletop
Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.
First, a table holder is still needed, from timber from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.
The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. layered enough soft wood, then the nests can, breaking the layers, come out back already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.
And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.
Books and cheburashka
The disadvantages of the book table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support is reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees must be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for you. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.
Fundamentally similar decision applied in the wall folding table(pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here it works for the operational reliability of the already beveled corner of the support. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezoid converging from top to bottom.
The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no lock, because he just isn't needed.
The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. There are half the legs, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability due to the expansion of the cabinet has only increased, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always not enough in the kitchen).
Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table as it should be.
Alternative
If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.
The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour to it, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a normal-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not broken, and the hostess is close at hand.
One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and the microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.
An integral part of any home is a table. Despite the fact that the variety of forms and materials of execution of this piece of furniture can amaze even the most demanding and sophisticated buyers, many amateur furniture makers try to make a table with their own hands. There is nothing difficult in this, because the design of the table is not much more complicated than an ordinary stool. Armed with a saw, drill, hammer and other tools, you will be able to assemble such a product in literally half a day, and it will look no worse than the purchased one. One of the main advantages of making this furniture with your own hands is the possibility of creative self-expression. In addition, a do-it-yourself table can become the centerpiece of any interior.
It's no secret that the main function of the table is to organize a place for dining and receiving guests. In addition, it often serves as a place for family pastime, during which you can enjoy various entertainments: playing cards, monopoly, bingo, dominoes, etc. In addition to significant savings and demonstration of carpentry skills to others, making a table with your own hands provides a person with an excellent opportunity to create a unique little thing that is ideal in all respects: shape, size, material and reliability. Following the instructions and recommendations of professionals, you will be convinced from your own experience that this furniture product is quite capable of making yourself at home.
Today, various building materials are used for the production of tables: metal, glass, plastic, stone, but often furniture is made from such high-quality materials as wood. To create a wooden table with your own hands, you can use soft (spruce, pine, cedar, fir), hard (birch, walnut, oak, maple, ash) or very hard (dogwood, yew) wood species with good resistance to decay and mechanical influences.
Walnut has the most valuable qualities for furniture - it combines high hardness and excellent toughness. If you are new to the carpentry craft, it is recommended to give preference to furniture made from pine, birch and oak. Deciding to make a pine original table do it yourself, you can use cheap knotty boards, but they should be free of knots, cracks, spots and traces of rot.
Before proceeding with the analysis of specific points and recommendations that will help you make a table with your own hands, it is important to decide on the design of the desired product. Due to the excellent combination of naturalness and environmental friendliness of wood with a summer cottage concept, a homemade wooden table will be an excellent option for garden furniture. A small do-it-yourself table made of wood, as if deliberately aged, will also fit well into the design of a city apartment, made in the Scandinavian or Provence style. It is noteworthy that in terms of the complexity of the work, this piece of furniture for most craftsmen is almost like a homemade wood product, since homemade table very easy to assemble. This fascinating process is reminiscent of assembling a constructor.
One of the essential attributes of human habitation is a table. It should be in the apartment, and in the cottage, and summer house in the country.
Making a wooden table with your own hands is not like that difficult task appears at first glance. A simple structure that is suitable for a summer residence can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if he first picked up a carpentry tool.
More complex models that will decorate the kitchen or living room will require creativity and certain skills, but this work is doable if you follow certain rules.
Possible options
Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:
- with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
- corner - help to save internal space;
- transformers - multifunctional structures;
- folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
- "Books" are a common modification of a folding table.
It is noteworthy, but all of the listed table options can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from scrap materials.
Regardless of design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, it must match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully decorated carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.
Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.
Preparatory stage
Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what is required home master during the production process.
Blueprints
This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visually represent the future table, to determine the size and amount of material. You can search for ready-made drawings on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Internet users, detailing each stage of production.
If we are talking about a unique table design, which is planned to be created according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:
- external dimensions (length, width, height);
- fastening the legs to the table top. Have round models usually one support post located in the center, rectangular structures require 1 support for each corner;
- mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).
It is necessary to carefully consider how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before or after assembly.
Material
It is no secret that wood of different species has different properties and not the whole array is suitable for handicraft processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be conditionally divided into 3 groups.
Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many deciduous (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is easy to process, but the manufactured table will require additional protective coating especially if it is intended to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. The exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.
Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but in the process of processing one cannot do without a power tool.
Extra strong. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the shops of industrial enterprises.
Tool
The simplest rough table made of boards can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools are required:
- electric jigsaw;
- grinder;
- screwdriwer set;
- drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
- roulette;
- simple pencil;
- square.
In addition, it is recommended to pre-treat the wood with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sides, then you will need special cutters. A great help to the master will be a lathe or milling machine on wood, but not everyone has such tools.
Homemade tables for a summer residence
The most simple and practical option for the arrangement of the dacha economy - a table made of wooden pallets. At first glance, unnecessary pallets are ready-made source material that requires little or no additional processing, but offers several use cases. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelf or for small friendly gatherings.
Such a structure is made elementary. One pallet is fixed to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The installation height is selected individually. The working part is attached to the fixed base - the table top. The elements are articulated with two chains, which will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 hinges are placed at the junction of the pallets; in addition, you can install a locking mechanism, for example, a hook, which will hold such a table in a closed position.
A more complex option is a pallet coffee table that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, and painted. After that, the boards are hammered into a rectangular tabletop, fixed along the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. Such a structure is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening teas and family vacations.
We use the remnants of building materials
Practically on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.
Here you need to be guided by the following instruction:
- assembling the frame. To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To preserve the geometry, we use a square. At the joints, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
- fasten the legs... For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is freely selectable: 80-100 cm. Support stands are installed with inside frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;
- stiffening rib . An additional wooden crossbar is nailed approximately in the middle of the legs. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more robust and stable. In addition, these crossbars can subsequently be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other small items necessary for the household;
- table top. This is where the remaining boards go, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, and is attached to the frame with finishing nails.
At the final stage, all surfaces are sanded, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in which case the tree will last much longer. And if you walk on the boards with a brush for brushing and apply stain on top, you get an antique table.
Table with benches
This option is great for a garden, a structure made of wood is installed permanently, depending on the size chosen, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. Manufactured garden table and benches from boards separately, then the elements are fastened together threaded connection: steel pins.
The manufacturing process begins with the shops. For this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble a bench, you will need:
- 3 long boards that will fit on the seat;
- 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
- 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
- 1 board is 25-30 cm shorter than the length of the seat - stiffening rib.
note that all the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.
The shops are assembled according to the following scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short cross members. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.
Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close to each other, it is better to leave small gaps.
The finished seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. Fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by boards on both sides.
After preparing the base, the table is assembled. The table top and areas for the installation of support posts are made according to the principle similar to the benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches to each other. The result is a comfortable DIY kitchen table that can be used for family gatherings.
Round tables
Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands out of wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if there is a felling of old trees in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to a personal plot, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. For this, a cut from a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round, 5-7 centimeters thick, is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.
If you are not lucky with the fallen trees, you can create a round tabletop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:
- length - 2000 mm;
- width - 250 mm;
- thickness - 40 mm.
The boards are tightly connected to each other (without fastening), a circle of the required diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with a jigsaw exactly along the marked line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from bars. The shape is chosen depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are supposed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed using corners; after assembly, the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in an apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.
By a similar principle, they collect oval table... The only difference is that on the boards connected to each other, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-oval at the ends. The boards are trimmed along the line with a jigsaw. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge is required, so it is better to order such elements from the furniture industry.
Transforming tables
A folding table made of wood, made by hand and capable of changing its original shape, is a real masterpiece. Folding structures look equally advantageous in the country and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The simplest option is to make a transformer for a personal plot, and you can easily cope with this task on your own.
To surprise guests and get a comfortable picnic table made of wood, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs... The seat is made of 3 planks connected by crossbars. There is one nuance here: the edge of the cross member, which is located on the side of the backrest, should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the edges of the seat.
Table legs are made in different lengths. A short support leg is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the back. Note that the recommended height of the backrest should vary between 60-90 cm swivel mechanism... Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack where the backrest retainer will be inserted.
After completing all the operations, they get 2 benches, on which you can sit quite comfortably, discussing latest news or watching the sunset. If you raise the backs of these benches and move them closer to each other, you get a table with two rows of seats. Taking into account the width of each backrest, the result is a table top measuring 120-180 cm.
Computer desk
If we are talking about a factory product, computer desk seems to be a rather complex construction. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, drawers for storing discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.
Here you can try to implement this option:
- steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of a professional pipe with 4 support legs. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made for the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
- the table top is made of cut-to-size boards or a sheet of fiberboard;
- the shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.
All elements are connected to each other by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, such a design is inferior to factory counterparts in external design, but it costs several times cheaper and does its job quite well.
Processing and exterior finishing
In order for a homemade wooden table to have a presentable appearance and retain its properties as long as possible, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion before assembling. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are carefully sanded, minor imperfections are masked with a putty. Then varnish is applied: choose better compositions on acrylic base that are safe to work with.
To extend the service life, it is recommended to protect wooden tables from strong moisture and direct sunlight. In the garden at the dacha, it is better to install them in a shaded place, and cover them with foil in the rain.
