Diy plywood glider drawings. White-winged gliders, airplane from ceiling tiles
In our age of computers, the Internet, home robots and mobile gadgets, traditional modeling is not as popular as it was 20-30 years ago. But hardly anything can compare with the feeling when the model, assembled by your hands from the materials at hand, successfully floats / rides / flies. In this article, we'll look at making a simple paper glider.
Such a glider is made only of scrap materials and requires no more than an hour to manufacture (see the picture below). The hardest part is adjustment. But if everything is done according to our recommendations, the model will fly well. An increase in wing span and chord size will not affect strength at all. Therefore, the size of the model can be safely increased by one and a half, even two times. She has one more feature that characterizes her aerodynamic qualities. Pay attention to the wing profile. Its unusually large concavity increases lift. That is why, given the dimensions and weight of about 60 g, its performance is twice as good as that of a sports model in the same class. Launched with a 30-40 m long rope, the glider will stay in flight for more than a hundred seconds.
The glider model is collapsible. It consists of three parts: wing, stabilizer and fuselage. So it is more convenient to store and transport it in a paper or plastic bag.
Now get to know the manufacturing technology. Place the sheets of whatman paper on the table. Draw on it in full size the outlines of the stabilizer 1 and wing 5 according to the dimensions shown in the figure. Do not forget to give allowances for item 1 folds. Then cut out the blanks with sharp scissors. Be careful not to wrinkle them accidentally. To give the wing the necessary curvature, the workpieces should be pulled with effort over the edge of the table. This is how it is done. Place the workpiece on the table with the leading edge parallel to the edge of the table. With your left hand, lightly press it against the table top, and with your right hand, pull it down, making the paper bend over the edge. Repeat this operation several times, gradually increasing the bending angle. Then outside With the tip of the scissors, lightly press the fold lines onto the stabilizer and wing blanks. The wing and stabilizer are now complete.
Next, cut out two blanks for rib 6 and one for rib 7. Shape them as shown in the picture. Lubricate them stationery glue or PVA glue and glue to the wing. The glue connection of the parts will turn out to be more durable if the gluing points along the entire perimeter are also pinned with pins. We do not recommend permanently gluing ribs 6 if the central part of the wing is skewed. When gluing rib 7, pay attention to the lower plane of the wing - it should be perfectly flat. To prevent the workpieces from warping, stick the pins only from the top after gluing. After gluing the ribs, immediately place the underside of the wing on a table. The wing tips should be made without bending the paper. Otherwise, they will not turn out to be durable, and then you will need to additionally strengthen them with paper pads. Stabilizer 1 is assembled from two blanks, after bending the edge of one of them, as shown in the figure. Glue the leading edge of the folded edge and press down with a small weight.
The fuselage is made from one wooden slats section 8X8 mm square or round section. The ends should be removed with a sharp knife on a cone. The finished fuselage must be cleaned with sandpaper. The stabilizer and wing fitted on the fuselage should not rotate. To prevent this from happening, paper tubes should be twisted and glued on a square blank. Best material for tubes - thin notebook paper. Pre-paper blanks 2 and 8 are formed by rolling them tightly at the ends of the rail. Then twist the tube with your fingers, turn it 2-3 turns and, greasing with glue, screw it back on again. Wrap the workpiece with threads or rubber tape until the glue is completely dry. Then with sandpaper it is necessary to clean the edges, which are hard from the glue. The finished tubes are glued into the wing and stabilizer. The holes for these tubes are pre-pierced with a sharp pencil in the places shown in the figure.
To ensure the flight of the model, immediately after assembly, the following conditions must be met. The plane of the stabilizer should be glued in relation to the lower plane of the wing at an angle of 3-5 °. This is why gluing the tubes to the wing and stabilizer must be done as carefully as possible. If you still get some discrepancies, correct them by bending the fuselage rail. Of course, to fully fine-tune the model, a more careful adjustment of the position of the fuselage curved relative to the wing and stabilizer will be required.
In flight, the model of the "duck" scheme (this paper glider is made according to this scheme) are prone to nose-up, that is, to lift the nose, which leads to an increase in resistance and a drop in speed.
In such cases, either change the angle of the stabilizer relative to the wing, or reduce the area of the stabilizer by cutting it with scissors, or slightly bend the tips up.
The glider's center of gravity should be in front of the leading edge of the wing. Therefore, if necessary, attach an additional weight to the nose of the fuselage - a piece of plasticine. Carry out the necessary centering of the model by launching it from your hands. If the glider dives steeply, then you need to increase the stabilizer angle or reduce the weight of the load. If the model plans well, you can start to launch it on the rail. To do this, using threads and glue, install the hook 4 on the fuselage. And in order for the model to fly in circles, adjust the angle of inclination of the wing.
Based on materials from the book by V.A. Zvorotov "From Idea to Model".
FIG. 66 and 67 are given general form and a drawing of such a model. The glider consists of a fuselage and parts that are attached to it: a wing, a tail unit and a launch hook. The fuselage is made of pine planks, the hook is made of steel wire 1 mm thick, the tail unit is made of millimeter plywood, and the wing (Fig. 68) is made of 1.5 mm thick plywood.
Attaching parts of the model to the fuselage is very simple. At the end of the fuselage we make two mutually perpendicular cuts. Insert the stabilizer into the horizontal cut, and the keel into the vertical cut. At the bottom of the fuselage we make a cut into which we insert (with glue) the wing and fix it with the end of the hook.
The model is launched using the simplest catapult, which consists of a handle and a rubber loop (Fig. 66, A). You can successfully use an ordinary slingshot instead of such a catapult (Fig. 69).
Second wooden glider model
This glider model (Fig. 70) is made entirely of plywood.A drawing of the airframe is shown in FIG. 71, and in FIG. 72 shows the manufacturing process of the model. First, we cut out the keel with the rear part of the fuselage with a jigsaw from 1 mm thick plywood, and two parts from 1.5 mm thick plywood, which we glue to the keel on both sides (Fig. 72, A). We also cut out three parts for the front part of the fuselage from plywood, but with a thickness of 3 mm. We do in them according to Fig. 72, B cuts and glue these parts together. After that, we connect the front and rear parts of the fuselage. To do this, smooth the rear part of the fuselage with a rasp and glass paper and glue it into the cutout (Fig. 72, B). For greater reliability of connections, all glued parts of the fuselage are fastened with small nails.
The wing and the stabilizer are made of 1 mm plywood. We glue these parts of the model into the fuselage cuts. We make the cuts with a jigsaw, in which we clamp two saws at once so that the cut is wide. In the forward part of the fuselage, we reinforce the hook necessary to launch the model using a catapult. We make the hook from a wire with a diameter of 1 mm.
The launch of the glider model is shown in FIG. 73.
Adjusting wooden glider models is not much different from adjusting paper models: the model must be accurately centered, the rudders must be correctly positioned, etc.
When launching wooden models from a catapult, you must be very careful, as you can break glass in windows or injure your comrades, because these models are heavy and fly at high speed. It is best to run them outdoors, in a field, in a large deserted stadium, etc.
We advise wooden models gliders to make large sizes, with a wingspan of up to 1200 mm. Such gliders, released from the mountain without a catapult from their hands, glide and sometimes float in the air for several minutes. It's easy to make them. It doesn't take long to build them. You can launch the model without fear for their integrity - they are strong enough to withstand the impact of landing. They are damaged only if they run into an obstacle at high speed.
Recently, small models of gliders from EPP began to appear in toy stores, in other words, from ceiling tiles... Of course, such a toy flies beautifully, withstands many flights and can be launched everywhere, but prices bite - $ 9 apiece. But you can also make a homemade model by spending no more than 30 rubles on an airplane! So, let's start sculpting our toy.
Materials:
* ceiling tiles without embossed pattern
*PVA glue
* pine lath 4X4 mm
* buttons
* clothespins for linen
* pins or needles
* pens, markers, etc.
*stationery knife
* fine skin on a bar
*plasticine
First you need to print and cut out templates for the plane.
It is advisable to stick the printout to the cardboard. Then attach them to the tile, fix with buttons and draw a wing, stabilizer and keel.
Then we remove the templates and cut out with a clerical knife (or a medical scalpel) with an allowance of 1-2 mm of the workpiece.
Try not to touch the lines of the workpieces.
Now you need to process the blanks. Mark the bounding lines, take a block with skin and profile the wing and stabilizers with back and forth movements.
You need to process it confidently, smoothly, without jerking, otherwise you can ruin the part. Of course, you can add a profile with a heated iron, but this method does not always work.
If you attached to the details the desired shape, then you can start gluing. In no case grab the glue. Moment! Solvents will turn the plane into mush, so you need to use PVA glue. A lath 18-25 cm long is greased with glue on one side and on the other, and left for 5 minutes so that the glue is absorbed into the wood. At the stabilizer and the wing, mark the middle and coat the bottom with glue on midline... Next, we fix everything with clothespins, the keel is attached with pins to the wing also along the middle line.
The model we offer you to make (photo 1) will not be an exact copy of a real glider, but the model, if you execute it correctly, will fly well. A model made on the model of this glider made a record of 97 meters of flight on level ground (measured in a straight line from takeoff to landing).
The airframe model is very simple in design.
Photo1. Model of a glider made of paper.
It consists of three parts: the wing, the fuselage and "struts" - the struts that support the wing (photo 2).
We download the sweep of the airframe model, print it on a printer, stick it on thick paper (Whatman paper, drawing paper, drawing paper), carefully cut it out, assemble it and fly (photo 2).
Photo 2. A glider made of paper. Blanks.
In this model, the wing has no spar and is held in place by fuselage struts and struts. The wing is made of very thick paper. Due to the fastening on many struts, the wing will not bend.
The tail unit of the model - the keels and the stabilizer - should not be cut out separately, but together with the fuselage. Fold the weight for the nose of the model from two strips of paper. Only two studs are needed to hold the parts together.
Begin assembling the model by placing the weight strips in bow fuselage. Without fastening the load, substitute the struts from below to the fuselage.
Make sure that the strut struts fit in the middle of the fuselage struts. Only now, pierce the nose of the model through the struts, the fuselage and the load in two places through and through (photo 3).
Photo 3. A glider made of paper. Securing the load with studs.
Insert one hairpin into each puncture, tighten them very tightly, bend the ends down and cut short. You can fasten the nose with one wider puncture, into which, one after the other, insert two pins from the side of the puncture. The keels are placed at the very end of the fuselage. You do not need to bend them. There is a stabilizer in front of the keels. It must be bent with a small negative angle, that is, so that the fold line has a slight slope and the rear end of the stabilizer is slightly raised.
Rice. 3 Attaching the wing to the fuselage struts.
Adjustment and launch of the paper glider.
When adjusting, first of all check the centering of the model, it should be at the first third of the wing width (fig. 1). If the weight is light and the model is rear centered, add some weight strips. If centering is forward and the load is heavy, cut off some of the load.
Rice. 1 Checking the alignment of the paper glider.
Then check the installation of the wing and stabilizer (see Fig. 2) and see if the fuselage and keel planes are not bent. Fuselage distortions can be eliminated by forcibly sliding the riveted nose of the fuselage.
Rice. 2
When launching, hold the model under the wing by the fuselage. During the first launches, the model should not be directed upward. If the model is steeply dropping with the nose, then slightly bend the elevator up. If the model goes to the sides, then slightly, in the other direction, bend the entire keel, that is, both of its strips together. Level the inclination of the model in flight to one side with the ailerons.
Having achieved a smooth, straight flight of the model, test it in strong launches to range and takeoff altitude. You can change how the model is captured at startup. The throw will be stronger if you hold the model by the tip of the model nose, in front of the rivet. The model flies well both on level ground and from slopes.
Headwind, clouds, natural scenery, grace and tranquility. No, this is not every hippie's dream (though ... who knows). This is familiar to anyone interested in a sport like gliding. Well, sports or not sports, you decide for yourself, but a great hobby. Gliding - what is it? Designing models of "airplanes" and practical implementation their. Launching, flying, adjusting, launching again, and so on. For the most part, gliding is a child's play for adults, uncles and aunt. The glider designs are not repeated, each airplane is individual. Hence the interest: to build something new, never seen before. In general, the main center around which all actions are tied is the glider. It is in it that the philosophy of gliding lies. And how to do it, this plane? A matter of effort and desire.
Model selection
A homemade glider should have some qualities that can be noted in its commercial counterpart. Firstly, the plane, as planned, must fly, and for a long time. Secondly, the model must be strong so that when hitting the ground, it does not break into its component parts.
And, thirdly, the grace of flight has not yet been canceled, the more “correct” the glider flies, the smoother its trajectory, the better. Easy at first glance. But no. These are the characteristics that glider pilots have been trying to achieve from their offspring over the years, improving and improving their models.
It would be nice to immediately understand the design. What will the glider be like? It is difficult to achieve correctness with your own hands, so you should at least somehow adhere to general rules... It can be difficult for beginners to make complex models, so you should come up with something light, but no less elegant than the commercial options. So, there are two glider designs that do not require much effort and expense. This makes them great. The first glider is very light. It is based on the constructor example. This copy will be assembled, corrected, and launched right at the "test site". The second plane will be modular, one-piece and more stable. But, as you know, making it is hard and painstaking work. Not every beginner glider pilot will build it with ease.
Glider Drawings - Quick Reference
For the first and second glider, the set of resources will be almost the same. Wooden blocks, twine, necessarily glue (in fact, it is not recommended to save on it both in quantitative terms and in quality), ceiling tiles, a piece of plywood. In general, you can start.
Dimensions of the first glider
As you know, the first plane will be very light. Its knots will be secured with rubber bands and glue.
Therefore, you should not adhere to accuracy here. There are just a few rules to keep in mind. The length of the glider should not exceed a meter, and the wingspan should not exceed one and a half meters. The rest is for personal performances.
Dimensions of the second glider
This is where you should think about the quality of workmanship. After all, the parts of a one-piece aircraft must be adjusted to the millimeter. The blueprints of the gliders must always correspond to the models being manufactured, otherwise they will not fly. So, a complex model should have the following dimensions.
In length, the plane will be able to "grow" by eight hundred millimeters. The wingspan will be one thousand six hundred millimeters. Attention, the new dimension is height. What does it include? Fuselage "growth" and stabilizer. All this will come out in a hundred millimeters. The main numbers are known, so it's worth getting to work.
DIY glider - simple version
The practice has not been canceled yet, therefore, in order to achieve anything, it is worth working hard. With the construction of gliders, everything is the same. But do not forget that there is also an easy way: to create an airplane that does not need painstaking work. A construction plane is the easiest way to make a lightweight glider with your own hands. Very simple. Firstly, it will not be large, which will significantly reduce the processing time.
Complex airplane
It is easy to make a children's glider with your own hands. "Adult" models require some effort and more time to design. But the result is worth it. Making a full-fledged glider begins with preparing the wings. They are carefully and precisely cut and polished. The shape of the wing can be very different. Flat to rounded. Complex gliders are distinguished by the presence of counterweights. They give stability to the model. The body of the glider can be wooden blocks streamlined shape. The rest: wings, stabilizers, keel - everything is the same as in the previous version. With only one small difference: these parts are fixed with glue. Therefore, any changes after launch are not possible. That is why it is so important to calculate everything in advance.
