We make a garden table with our own hands. A detailed story on how to make a table for a summer cottage with your own hands with a choice of wood, step-by-step instructions and tips Schemes of tables made of wood construction

A table is a piece of furniture that you cannot do without in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo, or just in a shady place. Behind him you can dine, have a feast or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensively you can buy only a small plastic table, it is cheaper to make a large wooden table for a summer residence with your own hands. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.

Table dimensions and construction features

The optimal size of the table top for a summer cottage is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and will be difficult to clean for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold ceremonial feasts with the number of participants from 8 to 10 people.

It is easiest to make a table for a summer residence from boards. Moreover, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table made of wood is that the boards can be cut to the desired size at any building base, and brought to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table size of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a 120 cm long tabletop board. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.

There are many varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the tabletop rests. Therefore, the legs at the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.

Table top

The table top at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a 40 mm board.

An important point is the cutting of the boards. With a tabletop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that the boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the tabletop.

Choosing a board with a width of 100 mm does not have to adjust or change the dimensions of the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on the table arrangement. In addition, there will be 2 more boards with a length of 120 mm, which can be used for other parts.

If you can't get the board you need, you can make the tabletop not solid, but at intervals. Such a tabletop will look no less interesting. In this case, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid table top will drain through the gaps between the boards.

Straight Legged Table

A table with straight legs is the simplest design of a table for a summer residence. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.



Fig. 1.

Table legs consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal post is attached to the table top, the lower one is the support.



Fig. 2.

The design of the legs can be different. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make the support on vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made for additional strength.

Pay attention in this design, the connection of the boards is performed without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.



Fig. 3.

  • Collect the legs. To do this, you need to saw the boards according to the drawing. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmation.
  • On a flat surface, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fasten the boards of the table top through the upper bar of the legs.
  • Install a horizontal brace between the legs.
  • Wait 2 - 3 hours for the glue to dry and remove any burrs and sharp edges from the table.
  • Then the table can be varnished. Or just treat it with an antiseptic.

Table with X-shaped legs

A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to make without creating additional grooves on the legs. This complicates the work somewhat.



Fig. 4.

Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two criss-cross legs and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the table top.



Fig. 5.

To connect the legs in the inclined supports, you need to make a slot in the floor of the board.



Fig. 6.

The table assembly order is as follows:

  • The boards are cut to the required length.
  • A groove is made in the legs to the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a router.
  • Collect the legs. The connections are glued. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
  • The boards of the table top are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
  • Install the bottom screed board.
  • They process the table from burrs and varnish.

Table with benches

A table with benches is often installed on verandas or outdoors. Unlike the structures described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, benches are included in the design of the table.



Fig. 7.

The disadvantage of this version of the table for the dacha is that the design is rather cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.



Fig. 8.

The peculiarity of the table design is that the benches are fixed directly on the table legs. The crossbeams on which the benches are attached are at the same time the tie for the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal tie.



Fig. 9.

The order of assembling a table with benches is as follows:

  • Cut the boards to the desired length.
  • Assemble the legs and support for the bench flooring. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
  • Mark the boards for the table top and mount them to the legs.
  • Secure the benches.
  • Treat with impregnation or antiseptic.

Examples of tables for a summer residence



Fig. 10.



Fig. 11.



Fig. 12.



Fig. 13.



Fig. 14.



Fig. 15.



Fig. 16.



Fig. 17.

A do-it-yourself table may well be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in the carpentry craft. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is simple enough and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is too small in size. Buying custom-made furniture made of solid wood is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and design your own "work" yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show their creativity in a summer residence, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully equip a veranda or a gazebo in a suburban area. If you have the right materials and tools at hand, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which of the types of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for the job

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.


You can use the usual, traditional hand tools that carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

  1. A plane with which the wood is leveled and the parts are driven to the desired size.
  2. Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
  3. Saws of various sizes and modifications with which to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
  4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
  5. Screwdriwer set.
  6. Clamps for temporary fixing of glued parts.
  7. Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

  • The electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above have previously been used for.


Jigsaw rating
  • The sander will help to make the surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sanding.

  • Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help to round off sharp corners, drill curly grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
  • will significantly speed up the work, since you will not have to spend several minutes tightening each self-tapping screw. In addition, during certain operations, it is possible to install one of the cutters or conventional drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
  • The building level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being "skewed", the assembly is controlled by the level

An easy-to-manufacture table for a summer cottage


Making such a country table is within the power of everyone

Necessary materials

For such a country house, having a tabletop size of 1680 × 850 mm, not too many wooden blanks will be required. You need to prepare the following:

  1. Beam, section - 750 × 100 × 50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
  2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
  3. Joiner's glue.
  4. Board, size:
  • 1680 × 100 × 25 mm - 4 pcs. (longitudinal elements of the frame);
  • 850 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (transverse parts of the frame);
  • 1580 × 100 × 25 mm - 2 pcs. (facing boards for side frame elements);
  • 950 × 100 × 25 mm - 17 pcs. (boards for countertops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If it is planned to "darken" the wood, then it is covered with a stain, and for the appearance of a textured pattern, they are carefully passed from above with a grinder. Fine-grain sandpaper will remove the soaked raised parts of the wood pattern, and they will become lighter than the indentations.

Mounting a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to the assembly.


Frame or "box" of the table
  • The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680 × 100 × 25 mm and two end boards 850 × 100 × 25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. On the end boards, markings are made for the location of the inner and outer boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will take place by the tapping method.

The connection of elements can be done in different ways:


Connection with a choice of "quarter" and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the easiest and most reliable way;

- the cut-in method is a more complicated method, since it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;


Several types of tongue-and-groove connection

- "groove-thorn" shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen who have no experience;

- the connection with dowels is shown in f) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be joined.

  • All connections are usually made with glue. The only exception is the butt joint of the parts with a metal corner.
  • The frame must have perfectly adjusted right angles, therefore, after connecting all the elements, it is necessary to carry out control using a building angle and measuring and comparing the length of the diagonals.
  • If the parts are fixed with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

  • When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are fixed to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. Facing boards are also glued and fixed with self-tapping screws, the caps of which should be sunk in the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

  • The next stage is the transverse sheathing of the table top with 950 × 100 × 25 mm boards. The place of their fastening must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The overhang of the worktop above the frame must be 25 mm on all four sides.
  • Further, each of the boards are fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the "box" of the table, and the outer boards are also fixed to the end sides. So that the caps of the screws are recessed, for them grooves with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the boards to a depth of 2 ÷ 3 mm, then, in the center of these grooves, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards during installation work, through holes must be drilled.

  • After that, legs from a bar with a section of 750 × 100 × 50 mm are fixed to the edges of the longitudinal boards, they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is to install the legs
  • The legs can be fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the junction. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from the inside of the frame using a wrench.
  • The final stage of manufacturing is the sealing of the caps of the self-tapping screws with a mixture made of carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. This homemade putty is used to fill the grooves above the caps and level them well. After the glue dries, the entire worktop, and especially the places covered with glue "plugs", must be well sanded.

  • After that, the table can be covered with varnish or water-based paint. After waiting for the decorating or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in a summer cottage, on a veranda or terrace in a recreation area.

If desired, it will be easy to make a bench or a set for a table.

Small folding table for the kitchen


Such a small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

  1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
  2. The presence of a double-sided roomy bedside table will allow you to store various little things and small toys in it.
  3. The table is equipped with a table top that is large enough for a child, sitting at it, to do their homework.
  4. In addition, there is space on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
  5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you put a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how and also check out several models with detailed instructions in a special article on our portal.

Required materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make up it. The list of required blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:


Scheme of a table with numbers of assembly parts (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)
Part No. in the drawingthe name of detailQuantity, pcs.Part size, mmManufacturing material, thickness, mm
1 Folding part of the table top.1 600 × 600
2 Fixed table top.1 600 × 475Multi-layer plywood 25 mm thick
3 2 530 × 30
4 2 120 × 30Plywood 18 mm thick
5 The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.1 122 × 30Plywood 18 mm thick
6 Slot element for leg movement on folding table top.2 530 × 20Plywood 18 mm thick
7 Slot element for the movement of the leg on the table top of the cabinet.2 120 × 20Plywood 18 mm thick
8 The bottom end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.1 122 × 20Plywood 18 mm thick
9 Side walls of the table unit.2 720 × 520MDF 19 mm
10 The horizontal details of the curbstone forming the shelves.3 520 × 312MDF 19 mm
11 The lower vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.1 418 × 312MDF 19 mm
12 The upper vertical part of the cabinet's inner partition.1 312 × 184MDF 19 mm
13 The middle horizontal part of the curbstone.1 310 × 250MDF 19 mm
14 Cabinet door.1 477 × 346MDF 19 mm
15 Cabinet shelf.1 310 × 250MDF 19 mm
16 The front panel of the drawer of the curbstone.1 346 × 209MDF 19 mm
17 Drawer front panel (located behind the front panel).1 418 × 312MDF 19 mm
18 Drawer side panels.2 341 × 250MDF 19 mm
19 Drawer back panel.1 272 × 120MDF 19 mm
20 Drawer bottom panel.1 341 × 272MDF 19 mm
Drawer handles and cabinet doors.2 Ø 30 mmWood
Upper leg element.1 80 × 80 × 18Plywood 18 mm thick
Mobile table leg.1 Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702Wood
Furniture hinges for joining two parts of a worktop.2 Ø 50 mmMetal
Furniture hinges for the door.2 The size depends on the shape.Metal
Bottom end panels covering the gap under the curbstone.2 20 × 300 × 5Plywood 5 mm

The figures show a drawing of the table, on which you can rely in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.


The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)
Separate nodes of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for the movement of the leg (clickable illustration - click to enlarge)

For the manufacture of all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electrical tools that can bring the workpieces to professional perfection.

Find out how to do with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-pedestal

It is worth starting the manufacture of a table with the most important and largest part of it - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and "mobile", that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table may well serve as an ordinary compact cabinet.

IllustrationBrief description of the performed operation

The first step from plywood with a thickness of 25 mm, using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut out blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600 × 600 and 600 × 475 mm.

Further, on the larger panel, marking is carried out - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded.
In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make it yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.

Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded.
This can be done with a jigsaw or circular saw by attaching the appropriate compass attachment to it.

Further, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, if desired, even or rounded.

The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will be docked with the second part of the tabletop even.
Then its edges are processed in the same way.

In the next step, the two processed parts of the tabletop are placed on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other.
Marking is made for the installation of furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the table top.
Furniture hinges can be of different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil.
Then, using a router, special curly grooves are arranged in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges.
The hinges are fixed into the finished holes with self-tapping screws.

After hingeing the two parts of the table top, in the middle of the panels, on their lower side, a marking is made to fix the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg.
The guides must be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the joint between the two parts of the table top.
For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out from it and processed by a router: 530 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 530 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 120 × 30 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 30 mm -1 pcs., 120 × 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122 × 20 mm -1 pcs.
It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on both sides, and short elements on both sides, so that when joining, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed over the lower rails of the guides, are cut from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their corners do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel.
Then, to the lined section of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the table top, the parts are glued with carpentry glue. First, they are fixed on glue, and then the longest strips with a size of 530 × 20 mm are screwed on with self-tapping screws, then a piece of 122 × 20 mm overlaps the channel.
On top of the long and short fixed rails, the second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width - they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the tabletop and the top rail, along which the leg will move.
It is very important to calculate the location of the screwing points of the self-tapping screws so that the upper ones do not stumble upon those that fix the lower rails.
In the same way, four parts are fixed on the rectangular part of the tabletop.
All elements must be processed to smoothness and ideally evenly fixed to each other, otherwise the leg will run into obstacles and jam when moving.

The leg is usually made on a lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from the master or purchase it ready-made.
As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the desired height to smoothness.
Then, on the upper end part of the leg, using a dowel and glue, a square guide plate made of plywood with dimensions of 80 × 80 × 18 mm is fixed exactly in the center.

Further, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming.
If necessary, you can carry out minor adjustments and improvements.

The finished countertop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of plywood.
After that, the finished countertop is laid aside and proceeds to the manufacture of the curbstone.

The elements of the curbstone do not have complex configurations, therefore, in order to make them, it is enough on the MDF panel or thick plywood to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table, and carefully cut them with a jigsaw or saw.
After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed to smoothness with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.

If you plan to paste over the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge band, then this process is carried out using a conventional iron.
The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.

The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make curly grooves into which the furniture hinges will be installed and fixed.
The holes are made in the same way as in the worktop using a router, but in this case the router can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material.
The hinges should be positioned at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is imperative to carry out a thorough marking.
A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet, on which the door will be fixed.
Then the wall of the door is joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for self-tapping screws.

In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door.
For this, stepping back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and finding a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to fix the handle.

All manufactured parts of the curbstone are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and a brush.
The paint will not only make the product aesthetically pleasing, but also protect the material from the negative effects of a specific kitchen humid environment.

Next, you can proceed to the assembly of the bedside table.
Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, assembly can be carried out on a flat table, and for ease of installation, the pedestal is additionally installed on flat bars.
Mutual fastening of parts can be carried out using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, after assembly, the caps of the self-tapping screws will have to be masked with various compounds.
The build process is as follows:
- Place the bottom panel on the supports.
- One of the side panels is set on it according to the level and with the help of the building angle, and its location is marked with a pencil.
-At the same time, the location of the fastening parts is outlined on the horizontal and vertical panels.
- Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing center wall.
- Then, holes are drilled at the marked points of the bottom and end faces of the side panels for installing the dowels.
- After that, before gluing the parts, the places for installing the shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, in the marked places, brackets-shelf supports are mounted, for which holes are also drilled.
- Further, dowels greased with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, side walls are put on their upper, protruding part.
- In the same way, non-removable lintel shelves are mounted, simultaneously with the side walls.

Before continuing to work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure is well dried.
To make the cabinet stiffer, it is laid on its side and squeezed with clamps for the duration of drying.

While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer.
Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels.
The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed.
Then, the sidewalls are removed, and in the marked places, holes are drilled in their end to install the fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel.
Further, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sidewalls to the bottom.

The sidewalls are twisted between themselves using self-tapping screws, the caps of which are recommended to be drowned in the wood, and the holes should be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust.
Another option for fastening can be furniture corners, which are screwed to the sides with self-tapping screws from the inside. You will need two corners on each side.

When assembling a box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners with a building corner and a change in diagonals, otherwise a skew may form.

If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the box, then for a start, the place of their attachment is determined on the sidewalls of the boxes and on the inner walls of the cabinet.
To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, a line is drawn along which the guides will be fixed.

Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed on from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes.
It is recommended to use glue in addition to self-tapping screws for fixing the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are pulled together with four or five self-tapping screws.
After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel, through which the handle is screwed.

Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - the combination of the cabinet and the tabletop.
It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then fix it with self-tapping screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets.
But, first, the countertop must be correctly positioned. The part of the channel located on the stationary installed panel of the table top should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table.
The table top should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the side of the drawer by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and from the side of the leg - by 120 mm.

Having secured the tabletop, proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table doors onto the self-tapping screws.
Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.

When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing.
If desired, for its decoration, you can choose other colors that will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.

In the open state, the table also does not take up much space and will fit perfectly into one of the corners of the room.
Thanks to its "light" design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the table top makes it safe for children. Therefore, this version of the table can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If there is a need to save money, or there is simply a great desire to prove yourself in carpentry, then you should not postpone making it yourself. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work will be successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting version of the round table is offered, which may well serve both at home and on the territory of the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, can be realized independently by a skilled owner:

Video: lightweight kitchen table of collapsible design

The arrangement of a summer residence is a constant process. You build something, then you improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly required and tables are most in demand in the country. And put in the garden, and near the house, and also in. We will tell you how to make a table for a summer residence with your own hands in this article using the example of ready-made projects.

Homemade table made of pallet boards

Disassembled pallets served as the material for this table. Naturally, new boards can be used. There is only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (this is more expensive) or buy ordinary ones, put them somewhere in ventilated piles and keep it that way for at least 4 months, or better - six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made of dry wood.

We assemble the table for the street - put it in the gazebo, so we will not glue the boards of the tabletop, but we will fasten them from below with the help of planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.

Having disassembled the pallets, we get boards with an individual color and pattern. Having conjured a little, shifting them several dozen times in different ways, we achieve the desired result. It turns out quite a nice tabletop.

We take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. We grind them first with coarse sandpaper, then we bring them fine to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).

We take the strips that remained unused, with their help we fasten the tabletop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are. For fastening each board with a joint, we use two self-tapping screws, for a solid one - one.

From the processed sidewalls and two boards (also sanded) we assemble the table frame. We fasten its parts with self-tapping screws to the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also "put" on self-tapping screws. Only their length is large. For each, we pre-drill holes with a drill, the diameter of which is slightly less than the diameter of the screws.

Turn the assembled tabletop over and grind it. The procedure is the same - first with coarse sandpaper, then with fine one.

Next is the installation of the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, and adjust if necessary. Then - sanding again. This is easier than sanding the already screwed legs. We screw the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each one there are two self-tapping screws fixed in a diagonal (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. From the floor to the lintels, you can leave about 10 cm. We connect everything with self-tapping screws so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill the holes.

After removing the dust, we again varnish. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but it depends on the wood, so another sanding / painting cycle may be needed. As a result, we get such a homemade country table.

If you don't like motley planks and old nail marks, you can make them the same design. This table can be rectangular or square. All sizes are arbitrary - see available space.

Country table from the remains of boards

This table for giving with your own hands is assembled from the remains of boards of different breeds and sizes. Pine boards with a thickness of 25 mm and a width of 50 mm were used for the frame of the tabletop, the remains of 15 * 50 mm were used for the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, and it has a small width. So we will make it not wide - 60 cm, and the length 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).

Immediately cut off two long boards of 140 cm each.To make the width of the tabletop 60 cm, we subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm.Fold the frame, keeping an eye on the right angles, and twist it with self-tapping screws. We check if the bars were folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they must be the same.

We cut off four boards of 80 cm each, fasten them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can have 4 self-tapping screws for each leg.

We attach the crossbars approximately in the middle of the height of the legs. This is the frame for the shelf. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fix it strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.

We put the frame on the floor, check if it staggers or not. If everything is done correctly, it should be rigid. Next, we take sandpaper or a sander and grind.

Let's start assembling the countertop. Planks of various types of wood were left from the finishing work, some of them were painted with wood stain. We alternate boards of different colors.

We fasten the boards of the tabletop with finishing nails, carefully finishing them off with a finish. It can be fixed on the shelf with ordinary nails or self-tapping screws. Then we level with a grinder. The last stage is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. We bought it too dark, didn't like the look. We'll have to sand it again and paint it in a different color.

Wooden table with glued top

This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case, 20 mm. In order for them to hold well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. Pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter of 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the screws. Then, with a larger diameter drill, we drill recesses for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the marks will be difficult to find.

When assembling the legs, make sure that the angle is exactly 90 °. You can choose a bar as a pattern. First, we coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with wood glue, then we install the screws in the following sequence: first the two extreme ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue has dried, the legs are sanded, varnished and dried.

It's time to make the countertop. We collect it from boards of the same thickness. We dial in the size you need. Fragments of different widths can be used. It is only important that everything looks organic, and the sidewalls of the boards are even and docked without gaps.

We coat the sides of the boards selected for the tabletop with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, they cost one, but preferably at least three. We tighten it so that there are no cracks in the resulting shield. We leave for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be ripped off - to align the edges, and then sanded. You can trim with a jigsaw or a conventional hand saw. Using a grinder is difficult to get a straight line, but you can try. After sanding, we get a beautiful tabletop.

Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. It will only be necessary to draw the appropriate line and end the glued boards along it.

To make the table look more attractive, let's make a frame. We take a thin strip, process it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the tabletop. You can also use finishing nails. Only the planks are also pre-coated with wood glue, and then with nails.

After the glue dries, we process the joint again with sandpaper.

Now you can attach the table legs. We collect the table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to the back of the tabletop with glue, then install furniture confirmations through the tabletop. A preliminary hole is drilled under the confirmations with an expansion under the head. The holes for the fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.

We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We put them inside the frame. You can attach it with ordinary self-tapping screws. That's it, we made a table for a summer residence with our own hands.

How to make a garden table from wood with benches

For this table, boards of 38 * 89 mm were used (dismantled themselves), but you can take standard sizes. The difference in millimeters will not greatly affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should turn out.

To connect the parts, studs 16 cm long with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.

The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A hairpin is installed in it, washers are put on on both sides and nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. Why is this option convenient? For the winter, it can be disassembled and taken to a shed or garage.

Making seats

According to the drawing, we cut the boards of the required size. Everything is needed in double quantity - for two seats. We grind the boards, pay special attention to the ends.

The short sections, which we use to fasten the three seat boards along the edges, are cut off at an angle of 45 °. First, we assemble the structure that is attached to the bottom of the seat. We take a board with a length of about 160 cm, at the end to it we attach two short boards sawn at an angle. You need to attach it so that this board is in the middle.

Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add the boards cut at an angle and pull everything together with studs and bolts.

We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is a table for the street, you do not need to knock them close. Leave a gap of at least 5 mm between two adjacent ones. We nail it to the supports (which have been cut down), two for each board.

We fix the finished seats with four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with studs (if you walk, you can put two studs by placing them in a diagonal or one above the other).

Putting together a table

The table is assembled in a different way. Please note that for the countertop, the transverse boards are sawn at the edges at 52 °. We attach them at such a distance that the legs enter. Each board has 2 nails. You can finish, with small caps, or you can hammer in deep, and then mask the holes with putty.

Now we need to assemble the cross-legs. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We outline the place of intersection with a pencil. At this point, you will need to take out the wood half the thickness of the board.

We make the same notch on the second board. If you add them, they turn out to be in the same plane. We connect with four nails.

We make the second leg for the table in the same way. We are not assembling the table yet.

Installing the table

Now you need to fix the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We put them at an equal distance from the benches, fasten them with hairpins.

Now we install the tabletop. We also fasten it with pins. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.

Variations on a theme

According to this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for a summer residence, a garden. The design is reliable and easy to perform.

Diy table for giving: drawings

We will send the material to you by e-mail

Not everyone likes to buy finished products for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine, the site invites those who wish to learn how to make a table out of wood with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are pitfalls in such work.

Beautiful wooden product for the kitchen or living room, made with love

Our step-by-step recommendations are unlikely to be useful to professional carpenters, but advice to novice amateurs will come in handy. To begin with, consider what products you can make with your own hands from wood.



Of course, the more skills a person has, the more difficult the model he can make. But in order to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.

How to choose material for self-production of a wooden table for home and summer cottages

What to make a dining table with your own hands? Best of all - wood. The most pliable for the newly-minted master will be a pine tree. Poplar products will look more solemn. For the street, you can take mahogany.

If you want an option for home and easier, then you should consider laminated chipboard with an optimal thickness of 25-35 mm. On the countertop, you can take wooden boards, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. The legs can be made of metal or timber (about 50 mm thick).

In order not to be mistaken with the amount of material, they make a preliminary drawing of the future structure with exactly the specified dimensions.

Advice! Suitable product heights vary between 750-800 mm.

Related article:

DIY furniture made of wood: for a garden, a nursery, a kitchen, a bath, a garden, a gazebo; how to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and advice from experts - read our publication.

What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands

It doesn't matter what shape the future table will be: working with wood requires a certain set of tools. You can't do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with an electric model. To fix all structural elements, either a drill with a multistage drill for holes or confirmations is used. To grind the product to perfection, you need either a special drill bit.

For greater strength of attachment, wood glue is included in the tools.

How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step by step instructions

We have selected four types of structures that you can make on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We invite you to learn about the stages of making a round and rectangular table, a coffee table and a model for a garden gazebo.

Making a wooden round table

The easiest way to make a round table top and tie ring is from or in sizes 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two laminated chipboard strips (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden blocks with dimensions of 120 × 50 × 750 mm.

How to make a countertop

How to draw a circle perfectly straight? On a sheet of plywood in the center, place your own thumb with a string and a pencil attached to it. The length of the rope from the base to the top should match the radius of the future countertop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle around the full length of the rope with a pencil. It remains to cut it out with a jigsaw.

The circle underframe is cut out in the same way.

Making legs

A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if you do everything consistently. You won't have to bother with the legs if there is no excessive originality in the plans. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired size of the table height minus the thickness of the table top. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are already aligned along it.

All processing with a grinder is carried out immediately.

Advice! You cannot rush to sanding, since the first varnish will reveal all the flaws.

Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product

The assembly is carried out in stages. First, the strips are aligned groove into groove. Then the crosspiece of the slats is connected with the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:

If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the table top, their upper base is coated with glue.

Advice! Nails are not used in such work: a self-tapping screw or confirmat can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.

Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table

The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.

How to make a countertop

The table top made of wood for the table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.

Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to make the frame.

Making wooden legs for the table and frame

At the heart of the quadrangular models is the wireframe. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. Turn the tabletop over, measure 3-4 cm deep on each side and transfer the measurements to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of shorter length and two more.

The frame is made of four elements: according to an approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are connected to each other with an overlap alternately, building a rectangle. In order not to violate the angle of 90 °, any board is used while working with a screwdriver: they press the structure with it while tightening the screws.

As soon as the frame box is ready, the legs begin to be made. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports, or cut them out of bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.

Both the frame and the legs must be carefully polished!

Product installation and final finishing

The frame is screwed to the tabletop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs are attached.

Important! Better to make the screw holes well in advance. This eliminates the possibility of splitting the tree.

Why not use nails and a hammer? Not everyone knows the skills of working with a hammer - here it is dangerous not only to knock on the finger. Excessive zeal can easily damage wood by splitting it. Confirmates and self-tapping screws hold the tree much stronger.

As soon as the leg is fixed, the angle is immediately checked: there should be no deviation from 90 °. The operation is repeated with other legs. It is possible to attach the legs directly through the countertop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.

Related article:

: photos of the best ideas. What can be made of pallets for an apartment, office and summer cottage; rules for the selection and handling of pallets; master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and rack - read our publication.

DIY wood coffee table

Not only a beautiful element of the interior, but also a useful one. No need to look for where to put a book, gadget, glasses, TV remote control in a prominent place. Such necessary structures are made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, laminated chipboard, wood. But let's leave the other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.

The choice of a wooden table top for the table depends on the expectations of the owner of the product. Someone wants something massive, while others prefer light options. Let's dwell on a simple solution.

We buy five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. We immediately saw off the desired length on the countertop: you should get 6 identical canvases. We take four bars on the legs, 6 sheets of shorter length on the lower tabletop, 4 narrow slats for the frame.

IllustrationDescription of action
For brushing wood, use a grinder with a brass brush head. The procedure will expose the structure of the wood, giving the product a special flavor.
We go back and forth along each board from the side that will be the front.
We process the tree with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will permanently destroy unnecessary soft wood fibers. We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt.

We begin the process of assembling a small table with our own hands from wood.

  1. The lower and upper countertops are laid on the work surface with the wrong side facing you. Boards are stacked tightly to each other, gluing them together. As soon as the boards grab, the slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and fastening element. They can be glued or screwed on with self-tapping screws. A self-tapping screw is screwed in the center of the rail into each of the boards.
  2. The legs are screwed to both the table top and the slats. You can use the furniture corners.

Video: the process of making a coffee table made of wood

DIY wood table with benches in the gazebo

It's time to set aside time and build a wooden garden table.

It is best to take boards of standard sizes. Studs (suitable with a length of 16 cm), washers (24 pieces) are purchased at a hardware store. Long nails (8 cm) will do for a garden gazebo.


Painting a product or simply varnishing it is already a matter of taste.

After a hard week of work or on vacation, there is nothing better to spend time in the country. Sit comfortably by the fire, drink tea brewed with herbs, gather at the table for the dacha, which is assembled with your own hands.

The modern market offers a large assortment of affordable plastic furniture. But, unfortunately, plastic tables for a summer residence are not reliable. Therefore, many owners of a garden plot dream of making it on their own from natural materials.

The process is quite simple, as it might seem at first glance, you just need to properly prepare for work.

Country furniture set: which material to choose?

The outdoor table and benches, being constantly under the open sky, are exposed to the effects of natural precipitation, therefore, they should be made only from durable materials: natural wood, stone, metal raw materials.

Natural wood

Please note that not every type of tree is suitable for the job. Coniferous tree species have a loose, light structure, moreover, they are prone to inflammation, constantly emitted drops of resin can ruin the tablecloth and dishes. Therefore, it is recommended to impregnate them with special moisture-resistant compounds.

For a wooden table at the dacha, it is better to take hardwoods, and each board should be at least 50 millimeters. The design of the legs can be performed both in a straight and in an X-shaped version.

Make sure that all surfaces of the constituent products were carefully processed to avoid getting a splinter in future use. And do not forget to apply a special impregnation to the finished product.

To extend the durability and strength of a wooden table in the country, experienced experts recommend varnishing it in at least three layers.

Stone

Stone furniture will undoubtedly amaze everyone with its grandeur and beauty. Ready-made furniture can be purchased, but the price is too high. You can reduce costs by independently performing the basis for the table and benches. For which you can use the available materials: slabs, bricks, building blocks, ordinary natural stone.

Such a base will perfectly fit into the overall style of the garden plot and other buildings. For the countertops and backs of the bench, it is reasonable to take an artificial stone.

Metal

Tables and chairs for a summer cottage made of metal is not at all difficult to make on your own, but for the work process you will need a welding machine. Such furniture looks very attractive, and decoration with openwork inserts will give aesthetics. But metal furniture is also subject to gradual destruction, therefore, it also needs special treatment against corrosion.

If funds allow, you can order forged products from a specialist in a professional workshop. Forging is perfect as a base, which can be supplemented with glass, stone and wood.

Therefore, there is an option to buy only the basis for the furniture and in the future to complete it yourself.

Options for making country furniture

To create real unique masterpieces of furniture, you can use improvised unnecessary things, rummaging in a barn or garage, where it is undoubtedly possible to find suitable consumables:

  • metal barrels;
  • used plastic parts;
  • glass surfaces;
  • other.

The old lid from the barrel can be cleaned of rust and processed, then covered with paint - you get an interesting tabletop. Or, for the base (leg) of the table, you can use the iron part of the flower stand. It must be primed, covered with acrylic paints. Next, you need to glue a window seal to the support, and glass to it - a tabletop, to improve fixing.

The non-wasteful owner, of course, stores pallets from sets of bricks, which can also be used as countertops. At such a table, it is not at all a shame to invite friends to a tea party or a dinner party.

Pallet table constructions

Self-construction from old pallets does not require any special costs. It can be done in several simple ways, for which a simple set of tools will come in handy:

  • construction screwdriver;
  • sandpaper;
  • brush;
  • colored stain;
  • wheels;
  • screws and screws.

First you need to properly grind the pallet, this is first done with coarse sandpaper. At the completion stage, finer sandpaper is already taken. Work will go much faster if you have a grinding wheel in everyday life for processing parts.

Next, turn the finished processed pallet over and screw the small swivel wheels from below using a screwdriver. In order to better and more reliably fix the product to the tree, it is recommended to use washers for lining under the wheels.

The finished base must be carefully treated with an antiseptic. The transparent composition will preserve the interesting unique structure of the wood, and the stain will give the object a colorful look.

A small neat table for a summer residence, as shown in the photo, can be placed on the terrace, veranda, or directly in the room.

The summer recreation area will look the most comfortable and cozy if a large set of furniture is made from pallets. Such a furniture set can be made in a portable version, that is, with its possible transfer to different parts of the area.

The scope of imagination: table option

A heavy cable reel is a relatively heavy construction that can be lightened and transformed into a street table in the country. You will have to make a little effort to decorate, and so - the structure itself is almost ready.

The easiest way is to wrap the barrel of the product with a twine twine, and carefully grind the top and cover it with transparent varnish. And you can take only the center itself from the coil, adding a tabletop to it, or vice versa - a base made of metal, and the surface of the upper disc.

An excellent designer garden set will come out of old tires: a table and ottomans with a back. They can be painted in your favorite color, fastened together with silicone sealant, or a similar adhesive. It is reasonable to make a tabletop made of durable plastic or solid wood. On the seat of the pouf, you can cut foam rubber for convenience, covering it with a cloth.

A powerful brutal set will turn out from ordinary thick logs, which must first be carefully processed and soaked with high-quality stain. Then, for stability, the lower part of the log should be leveled.

Similarly, a slightly smaller pouf is made. But an interesting table will come out of a long log, lined on top for a table top.

The creation of a furniture set for a personal plot is quite an exciting activity, and it is absolutely not an expensive business. Any old things prepared for disposal will be useful for work. Do your best and the results will surely surprise you and your guests!

Photo of tables for a summer residence