Homemade wooden table. Making a large dining table Drawings of wooden kitchen tables

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: at the sites and in the settlements of primitive people, large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, distribution and dining tables; the remains of food and food have been preserved on them. In this article, we will see how to make a do-it-yourself kitchen table completely at home. This will not only save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but also provide an opportunity to acquire the initial skills of carpentry, which in the future may turn out to be much more significant. The most common types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather gross flaws in work. There are also great looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and turn a screw.

The table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: skills are needed here a lot less than fantasies, and failure will not spoil the whole interior. Samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite available for making with your own hands, but first you need to feel the design and material at a basic level, in which we will try to help the reader.

There are at least 15 different ways to make a kitchen table., including art forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will restrict ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows you to get the desired result with the least labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular tabletops or with rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable area than a rectangular one for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to it and must be served over the shoulder of the seated person. This already belongs to the category of parodies of the rules of good form. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards yourself or away from yourself? Answer: depending on what you want to shower, yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, a round table in a small kitchen is stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity wedging into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the countertop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the size of the kitchen table in terms of the situation is more complicated.

The bottom line is the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is much stronger than a certain deviation from these proportions, spoils the wedging of the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove, and rested seductive forms on the cheek of the faithful just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, if only it is convenient for the eaters.

The minimum allowable size of a family kitchen table in terms of it is considered to be 600x900 mm... For singles, let's say a table of 450x750 mm, as in railway cars. In this case, it is also permissible to make it in the "microkitchen" or in the kitchen area of ​​a small-sized odnushka wall-mounted folding, see below. But the optimal dimensions of the kitchen table top are considered to be (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the size of the users.

What to do

The traditional kitchen table is on the underframe pos. 1 in fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on the edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the table top can be freely applied to them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. Such a kitchen-sized table is structurally simpler and more durable, but it is more difficult to bring in / out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option - the tsars are tightly fastened to the table top, and the legs are detachable. In this case, a tabletop is needed durable and not of any suitable for pre. case, material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with skidding / removal. Both of these options for the classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail later.

The table on the underframe can also be decorated, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not at all as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - the chiseled shaped legs - are excellently obtained from the commercially available handrail balusters (see below). The figured wash down of the tsar for a novice craftsman who knows how to handle a jigsaw is not a problem. Remains a hammer - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For her, you can rent a hand-held milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like, with it the very work of mouldering takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of pruning.

No less common in kitchens are beam-structure tables, pos. 3. They are even in the simplest version (2 options, see below) more attractive than tables with a base. However, to perform them in a high-end design (pos. 4), well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills are required. Beam tables require more material consumption, but their indisputable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing worktop without a base (pos. 5) are also very common in kitchens. In the factory version, this is perhaps the cheapest kind of good quality kitchen tables. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and the assembly will take half an evening at most. But with a completely independent production of such a table, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially made a splash due to its compact folded form and the ability to use it in half, but then there was a period of some disappointment. First, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs are uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the pivot support lock was the simplest, of a pair of 50x20 bars attached with a gap equal to the support thickness to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when the table was unfolded. However, if you accidentally pry on the tabletop with your knee, the latch is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge with cutlets and mashed potatoes on trousers and on the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical latch turned out to be very complicated and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising, design, to which a special section will be devoted further in this publication.

Wall folding tables (pos. 7) are found occasionally in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their superiors. have all the disadvantages of book tables with little or no room for improvement. Serving tables (pos. 8) are used on the farm much more often, but this is a separate class of pieces of furniture with its own specific qualities and features of manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to only mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made of wood species or materials that are little or not at all subject to shrinkage when drying out: oak, hornbeam, wenge, chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in the kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air in 5-7 years begins to warp and crack, even when impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. Hence, some features of its manufacture follow, ultimately allowing to simplify the work.

Table top

This is the main detail of any table. For a homemade table in the kitchen, the best option is to buy a ready-made post-formed countertop, they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled chipboard plate with rounded edges, finished with wood or other material. The advantages of postforming applied to the kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically, for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made of boards, the so-called. solid wood or furniture boards. Joining the boards into an array is a rather delicate and painstaking work, for this special devices are used - clamps. If you have a desire to try yourself in the manufacture of solid wood furniture, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture board with your own hands:

How to make a kitchen countertop:

How to make a table top from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but the look can be achieved - the tough oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally, wooden furniture is assembled on dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; just in case, recall what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out together with the connected parts; practically non-drying chipboard is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are of little use, because often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, like marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and you cannot redo an incorrectly marked dowel joint, both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to collect their first products on furniture euro screws - confirmations. It is more expensive, but does not require any special skills. the hole for the confirmation in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one run, see fig.

Details made of laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood, connected by confirmations, last for many years. All structures described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture for wood, and not plumbing confirmations for plastic. They differ at first glance: for furniture slots for a hexagon, and for plumbing ones for a Phillips screwdriver.
• The diameter of the confirmation body without a thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1 / 5-1 / 3 (extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck must correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The deepening of the threaded part of the confirmation into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmation.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmation is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use the main drill only with a twist drill for wood.
• It is imperative to thread the main drill into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmat on the thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect "teapot" to fulfill these conditions:

1. By the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the confirmation body without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on the Internet about confirmations, according to which, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the depth of drilling, you can determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open the pictures at the request "furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions";
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations, shows exactly them;
4. We say: "I need so much of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them." They can offer a solid drill just for such a confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to put a detachable (freely superimposed) countertop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a head and various types of corrugation on a long recessed and short protruding part are produced, see fig. on right. The first to be fixed are thick countertops, approx. from 20 mm; the second - which are thinner.

Different tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe, together with the legs (item 1 in the figure), are traditionally connected (assembled) on tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite difficult and time-consuming. A modern tool - a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver - in combination with legs, the head section of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters, the head is usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with dimensions up to approx. 750x1500 mm to do with the connection of self-tapping screws on wood obliquely, pos. 3. In any case, the outer layers of the tsars should be 1.5 cm apart from the outer surfaces of the tops of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. The minimum permissible height of the side of the kitchen table is 120 mm; thickness - 30 mm.

It is highly desirable to reinforce the connection with self-tapping screws obliquely with diagonal ties in the corners (pos. 4, above) from the same board as the tsars. If the tabletop is not supposed to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the laborious setting of it on the dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the tsars and the tabletop is attached to them from the underside with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The top of a classic table with detachable legs should be 24 mm thick (laminated chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made of other materials, for example. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe at the same time with the legs are not applicable here. Due to the large difference between the modules of thermal expansion of them and the wood, the table will soon become loose.

Further, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations through the end, on the left in the figure, with gluing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly with the help of ordinary wood screws. they are without a neck that keeps the joint from displacement.

The next point - jibs in the corners (in the same place in the figure) are required, wooden mortise or ready-made steel overhead. The legs at the corners are attached in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the desk drawer are taken the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, cabinet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, and the smoothness of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension are not of great importance, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which the keyboard boards of computer tables go.

The structure of the furniture drawer is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble his tray in the old fashioned way on a box spike (on the right in the figure), you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can lean on the front side of the table or enter it flush, it doesn't matter.

To install the box in the table in the longitudinal front sidewall, an opening is cut out according to the dimensions of the cross-section of the box tray, plus allowances on the sides of the guides (indicated in the specification for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to fix the rails. They are attached to the longitudinal side bars from the inside using backing bars. It is not necessary to fasten it from the tabletop, it will loosen. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the support boards, respectively. parts of the guides, pushing the box into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A perfectly simple but good looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of planks, see fig. on right. Its length, if the cross-section of the side bars is not less than 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Any tabletop weighing up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second one is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already beamed.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables of a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The table top is constructively any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with the solid wood table top. A variant of its fastening from the underside without dowels on the cranial bars is shown in the inset in the center on the right.

In this product, a beginner stumbling block may seem like a lower dressing (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for a wedge. In fact, everything is very simple: the lower bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or board. How this type of beamed kitchen table is made, you can watch the following video:

Video: do-it-yourself table by component

The table, the drawings of which are below in the figure, has 2 features. First, all the material is a board with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second - only a tray is provided under the countertop, and it itself can be glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the countertop board and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but it is also easy to remove the countertop for cleaning. So it is rustic or modern, it is a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without a tabletop

Factory kitchen tables without cupboards are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own under a wooden tabletop will encounter the following tricks.

First, a table holder is still needed, made of a wooden beam from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stresses in the boards always flow to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 attachment points of the leg holder must be approximately the same, otherwise the attachment will loosen by itself. A strapping made of a bar expands the stress fan in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace a continuous strapping with corner overlays, there will be no sense from them.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting the leg clips (pos. 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense fine-grained wood. If the countertop is made of pine, etc. laminated enough soft wood, the nests can, breaking the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%.

And the third - the clips of the legs themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without understands from "alternative" manufacturers, they are most often silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like these tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than recruiting a self-assembly kit at retail.

Books and cheburashka

The disadvantages of the book table of the original design (see the figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In fig. below is a drawing of the design of a book-table (only one swivel support without tabletop wings is conventionally shown), eliminating them in an amateurish way, but effectively. Quite simply, the width of the pivot support is reduced by more than half compared to the tabletop wing span (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, it became comfortable to sit as you want. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than the oblique one, and in order to raise the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest lock (see above), the knees must be lifted up so that it will be very inconvenient for you. General stability is provided by the legs of the pedestal section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. If this is not the case, the pivot bearings must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was applied in the wall folding table (pos. 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging angle of the support works for operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous. case: there are no contraindications for the implementation of that support in the form of a trapezoid converging from top to bottom.

The branded solution to the problems of the book table is the detachable legs stored in the cabinet. Putting them down is not much more troublesome than catching the clamp on the tabletop with a pivot support. Such a table-book turns out, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no lock, because he just isn't needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a wider cabinet and 1 leg for each wing of the tabletop. There are half the legs, so the whole table is cheaper. Its stability due to the expansion of the cabinet has only increased, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always not enough in the kitchen).

Such kitchen tables were so popular with consumers that they have already been given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably remembering from the cartoon: "Here, we built, we built, and finally we built it." A fold-out kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with the living room or you plan to combine them, then you don't need to think about the kitchen table, it is better to replace it with a column. At the bar, you can not only drink, you can eat on it too. The meaning of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area generally goes outside the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It is more convenient to work and dine in a 5-dimensional kitchenette in a bar counter - a separator of apartment zones than in an 8-9 meter kitchen of a brezhnevka. Can't believe it? Let's count.

The kitchen table doesn't stand on its own. To plant eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour to it, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a table 900x600 mm requires approx. 2.5 sq. m "living space", and the table 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 square meters. m. It is very, very difficult to shove such a thick slice into a normal-sized kitchen without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two sit at the counter from the side of the kitchen, the functional triangle is not broken, and the hostess is close at hand.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: "The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract." Here he, of course, bent and bent. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and microwave is not found in our belly, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, sometime there comes a moment that requires fundamental changes.

You should start working, of course, after you have chosen a certain model of the subject. If, as such, there are no skills in carpentry, then aiming at an entire work of art is not worth it. But even the easiest option in terms of manufacturing can look quite dignified and even more beautiful from the fact that it will be made on its own.

A list of required tools or how to make a wooden table with your own hands using what is in each pantry

Having examined and sorted out with your own hands many drawings of wooden tables, you can come to the conclusion that you will need the entire carpentry toolbox. Indeed, for a comfortable and fast work, you will need to acquire the following:

1. Electric jigsaw.
2. .
3. Grinder.
4. Screwdriver.
5. A set of drills of various diameters.
6. Brushes.
7. Sandpaper with zero grit.
8. Materials for processing (stains, varnishes or paints).
9. Materials for elimination of defects (wood putty and similar).
10. Joiner's vice and glue.

The list is rather big and you can think about whether it is easier to buy a ready-made piece of furniture than to puzzle over how to make a table out of wood with your own hands with a minimum of available tools. But there are no hopeless situations, so we will contrive and find new ways to achieve the goal.

• The jigsaw is replaced with a regular saw (however, there will be an order of magnitude more work to eliminate irregularities).
• There is no need for a router if the tabletop is made from a single sheet, and not separate segments.
• For the same reason, joiner's glue along with a vice can be removed from the list.
• You can also cross out the grinder, but it is worth clarifying that it is almost impossible to manually polish the surface to the required state. Therefore, we choose a more budgetary option - a grinding attachment for a screwdriver.
• It is unlikely that you can do without a screwdriver, but this tool is available in almost every home.

Other parts and materials, even if they are absent in the house, then their purchase is not so expensive.

Do-it-yourself assembly according to the drawings of a wooden table with a simple and waste-free design

To assemble a table with your own hands from wood according to this drawing, you do not need to be a trained specialist. The design is simple and straightforward, the main thing is to do everything carefully and slowly. This option is also attractive in that it can be made in two forms: both a coffee table and a dining table. The only condition is that in the manufacture of the latter, support stands will be needed (they can be easily purchased at a hardware store).

Wooden table drawing of a wooden table scheme No. 1

So, the instruction on how to make a table out of wood with your own hands is as follows (see diagram number 1):

1. The preparation of the canvas is carried out (sanding, cleaning, treatment with antiseptics, sealing of microcracks, etc.).

2. Transfer the dividing lines from the drawing to the canvas.

3. If you move from the left edge of the horizontally laid sheet to the right, then the markup will look like this:

40 mm - line (this cut will serve as a support bar).
250 mm - curved line (this cut will play the role of legs, in the case of a coffee table, and if the dining option is chosen - as a support stand for high legs).
900 mm - curved line (the largest segment, of course, will be used as a tabletop in the future).
250 mm - the last straight line (divides the remainder into a leg and a support bar).

4. The elements that will be supporting (legs and strips) must be shortened on the sides by 30 mm. This is done so that their edges are not visible from under the countertop.

5. Putting the leg with an arc downwards, we see that it rests on sharp edges. In this case, we will not get the stability of the product. Therefore, we measure 30 mm from the top of the corner and make a horizontal incision on both sides.

6. Attach a bar to the upper part of the legs with self-tapping screws. The step between them is 150 mm.

7. We retreat from the edge of the table top 250 mm and put the legs in this place. Self-tapping screws (4 pcs) will be screwed into the worktop through the bar, so make sure that they do not fall into the transverse fasteners.

Our article on how to do it yourself for a summer residence will be useful.

We paint or varnish the completely assembled product. To obtain a high-quality mirror-smooth surface, it is not enough to sand on clean wood. After covering with the same varnish, one way or another, but small villi "stand on end". Therefore, after each applied layer, it is necessary to sand the surface with fine sandpaper. And the applied layers should be at least three. The end result is a beautiful piece of furniture without any extra money.

Whatever the size of the kitchen, be it a small cage in a small family or a huge spacious kitchen in a country house, in any case, a table is an obligatory piece of furniture in it. Despite the abundance of modern materials and the choice of designer tables made of metal, glass, plastic and stone, wooden products continue to be popular. A wooden kitchen table creates an atmosphere of comfort and harmony in the house, somehow you don't even want to quarrel behind it, the mood becomes calm and balanced. You can buy such a table in any furniture store, the assortment of finished products is large and varied. But also a wooden table can be ordered in a carpentry workshop according to an individual sketch. Of course, both of these options "will cost a pretty penny", so many people prefer to make a wooden kitchen table with their own hands. Thus, you can save up to 70% of the cost of a finished similar product in the store. True, to perform carpentry work, you will need special tools and the skills of a carpenter, but this depends on the chosen material and the complexity of the table design.

Wooden dining table - optimal dimensions

The size of the table for the kitchen directly depends on the area of ​​the kitchen and the place where the table is planned to be installed. It is believed that a person feels comfortable if his personal area is at least 70 cm, i.e. there is no one around it in a radius of 35 cm. Based on this, a square table 90x90 or 100x100 cm will be quite enough for a family of 4 people, if the room allows you to move the table away from the wall so that everyone sits on their side. If the size of the kitchen does not allow moving the table, then you can install a rectangular table 120x75 or 120x80 cm. In this case, two people will sit at the long side of the table, and two people on the short sides.

In a large room - a spacious kitchen or in a dining room - you can safely put a large wooden dining table, the length of the tabletop of such a table is 160 cm. Usually, the dimensions of large tables are 160x90 cm or 180x90 cm. The space along the long side of the table is enough to freely accommodate two people, and two people at the ends will feel like just kings. And this is on ordinary days. If an event with many guests is planned, then 10 - 15 people can easily fit at such a table.

But how to accommodate guests for tenants of apartments with small kitchens? In such cases, a sliding dining table and a transforming table come to the rescue. Sliding tables are equipped with additional inserts for the table top, the width of which is usually 40 - 50 cm. There can be from one to three such inserts, all of them are located in the middle of the table or hide under the table top cover in a special niche if the table is assembled. When unfolded, the length of the extendable table can be up to 230 - 280 cm. This is enough to invite guests to a wedding. When folded, the length of such a table is from 120 to 180 cm.

The height of the dining table is usually 70 cm, but a lot depends on the height and complexion of the residents, sometimes kitchen tables are made with a height of 60 - 65 or 75 - 80 cm.

When choosing dimensions for a dining table, focus on the space allotted for it. After all family members sit down behind him, there should be enough free space around for the hostess to move, so that she does not create inconvenience to those sitting and vice versa.

Wood for the kitchen table

The choice of material for the kitchen table is a responsible task, not only the durability of the tabletop and its resistance to mechanical deformations, but also the final cost of the table as a whole, depends on the correct choice. Wooden kitchen tables made of solid wood are considered the most durable, environmentally friendly, aesthetic and are the most expensive. To independently make a table from an array, you will need the skills of a joiner and a carpenter, as well as a tool for processing wood and a workshop for work.

The density of wood for the kitchen table is of great importance. Traces and scratches can remain on the surface of soft wood, although it all depends on the accuracy of the owners. Hard rocks can be difficult for a beginner to handle. Craftsmen distinguish three categories of wood by density: soft, hard and the hardest.

Softwoods include pine, cedar, fir, spruce, poplar, aspen, linden, alder, juniper, willow, and chestnut.

Hardwoods include oak, beech, elm, ash, larch, birch, apple and mountain ash.

To the hardest: white acacia, yew, iron birch, dogwood.

Any wood is suitable for a dining kitchen table, even pine, which is considered the softest, but its surface must be varnished in several layers. The walnut table will be strong and heavy, and its surface is extremely durable, as even in the process of making openwork carving on the walnut there are no chips.

Oak wood for the kitchen table is ideal. In addition to being strong, solid and durable, it is also easy to process and varnished, does not deform, does not crack or warp, and is also resistant to decay, which is extremely important for a wet kitchen.

Larch wood is considered medicinal, but given that the surface of the table must be covered with protective agents, it will not be able to release medicinal phytoncides into the atmosphere. Linden wood is suitable for the manufacture of turned elements, plastic and durable, but it is affected by insect pests, therefore, it also requires staining.

The most common woods used for kitchen dining tables are pine, oak, walnut and wenge. Remember that you need to buy only well-dried material, with a moisture content of no more than 10%, otherwise the tree may warp, and this is fatal for the table.

In addition to solid wood, kitchen tables are made of laminated chipboard (laminated chipboard) with a thickness of 18 to 22 mm, as well as plywood and MDF. The ends of these materials are closed with a special PVC or melamine tape. These materials can hardly be called environmentally friendly and, of course, they are inferior in strength and durability to solid wood, but the ease of processing and low price tempts many. The laminated surface of the chipboard does not need to be additionally covered with anything, it already has a finished look. And plywood is used only for strapping or embedded parts, so it is not visible.

Making a table from solid wood or preferring an easy-to-process chipboard depends on the preferences of the owner and his carpentry and financial capabilities. After all, a kitchen table made of chipboard will cost much less.

Types and configuration of wooden kitchen tables

After you have decided on the size of the table and the material of manufacture, you can start choosing the shape and configuration. A variety of design solutions for tables can satisfy any request and choose a table model that best fits into the interior of the house and complements its sophistication.

Legs for kitchen wood table

The number of legs for a dining kitchen table, their shape and size directly depend on the shape and size of the table, as well as on the material of manufacture. For example, making a table entirely of chipboard on 4 legs, which are attached in the corners of the tabletop, will not work, since the chipboard material has insufficient thickness and strength. But if in a similar model the table top is made of chipboard, and the legs are made of wooden beams, then you will get a completely strong and durable product.

Legs for a kitchen dining table can be made independently according to a sketch, or you can purchase ready-made furniture accessories in a store. Making your own legs is a laborious task, the complexity of which depends on the configuration of the legs. That is why many people prefer to purchase finished products. In a furniture hardware store, you can buy metal legs for a kitchen table, which are hollow pipes with a diameter of 70 - 90 mm, but you can also pick up wooden carved legs that resemble externally balusters for a wooden staircase.

The dining kitchen table can rest on one or more legs. It depends on the weight of the table top, the shape and configuration of the table. How different dining tables look like with different numbers, shapes and sizes of legs can be seen in the photos below, showing wooden dining tables.

To set the dining table on one massive leg, it is necessary to perform a high-quality cruciform strapping.

Also the table can be about two massive legs separated by a certain distance. Typically, these tables are rectangular or oval in shape. Tables on two legs are convenient because people sitting behind them do not bang their feet on the table legs. At the bottom, these two legs expand to increase the footprint and are also joined at the bottom by a lintel board or reinforcement board.

Dining tables with four legs- the most common category and the easiest to execute, since complex strength and stability calculations are not needed. All you need to do is select the correct size legs and set them at the correct distance from the edges of the table. The shape of the table top of such tables can be round, oval, square and rectangular.

The shapes of the legs for the kitchen table can be very diverse. Remember that the aesthetic appeal of the legs is even more important than the beauty of the table top, as it will be hidden by the tablecloth, while the legs of the table will be visible to all guests.

Kitchen countertops

The tabletop of the kitchen table can be made of solid wood (furniture board, which is boards glued together), as well as laminated chipboard or glass. Naturally, massive tables look more sophisticated and resemble a work of art, while laminated chipboard tables are just an ordinary, unremarkable dining table. The chipboard end must be edged, so the cut must be perfect. Cutting chipboard at home, and even so that the cut is even, is quite difficult. Moreover, if the cut is semicircular. Therefore, it is better to order sawing laminated chipboard on a machine. It is best to trim off chipboard with PVC tape 2 mm thick or more or melamine tape. The first option is preferable, since the edges are smooth, even and rounded. If you glue the end of the chipboard with melamine tape, then the edges will be sharp, they can cause puffs on clothes, cuts on the skin, as well as the melamine tape is short-lived and does not withstand frequent water procedures.

Important! The thickness of the worktop should be more than 25 mm, preferably 28 - 35 mm. If chipboard with a thickness of only 18 mm is used, then the bottom must be reinforced in the form of a false plywood tabletop.

The shapes of wooden table tops are not as varied as the shapes of the legs.

Round tables for the kitchen are an option for an amateur. The main problem is that, oddly enough, such a table requires more space. You can't put it in a corner, and even if you move it to the wall, it doesn't matter if people sit around it, you need free space. A round wooden dining table will look great in a dining room or a large kitchen, living room, where it will stand in the middle of the room. In a small kitchen, a round table is not appropriate. Unless, if only one or two people live in the house, and the table is small - no more than 90 cm in diameter. Round tables allow you to experiment with support. For example, use only one leg or three legs, but for greater stability, four legs are still used, installed at a distance of 10-15 cm from the edge of the tabletop. You cannot use two support legs in tables with a round table top - this design is unstable.

Oval kitchen tables come in a variety of sizes, from small tables for oversized kitchens to huge tables that take up the center of the dining room.

A small oval wooden kitchen table is designed for compact kitchens; it can be installed in a corner soft set, as shown in the photo. But the most common are still large tables and medium-sized tables, since they fit in average domestic apartments and at the same time, many guests can be accommodated behind them. If there is nowhere to put a large table - the living room and kitchen area does not allow, then an oval sliding wooden dining table comes to the rescue.

Such a table usually has a tabletop divided in half, the halves of which can be moved, and additional inserts can be installed in the middle of such a table. By the way, the shape of such a table in the folded state can be round, and the table acquires an oval shape only in the unfolded position.

Sliding wooden kitchen tables

It is worth highlighting in a separate category sliding tables for a large number of guests. They can be of various shapes: round, oval and rectangular. The most common are still rectangular and oval models. A rectangular sliding wooden dining table is easier to make on your own than an oval one, since there is no need to round the corners with a carpentry tool.

Sliding mechanisms for such tables can also be different. Old Soviet tables were not equipped with roller guides or full roll-out guides, and the table had to be pushed apart, applying force, as the wood rubbed against the wood. Especially if the table was folded for a long time, sometimes it was extremely difficult to move the wooden surfaces that had stuck to each other. Modern sliding tables have a special roll-out mechanism, which greatly facilitates the work, as well as prevents damage to wooden parts and surfaces. Metal rails for the sliding table are available at the hardware store.

Wooden kitchen sliding tables: photo examples.

Additional wooden inserts-sections, which are installed in the middle of the table, can be stored under the table top when the table is folded. The easiest way is to make special fasteners for them, into which they will be inserted.

In modern sliding dining tables, the insert consists of two halves connected by hinges, folds in half and hides under the tabletop using a special mechanism. For this, an additional false tabletop with a hole in the middle must be required under the main worktop.

Tables with wooden legs, but with a glass top, are suitable for rooms in a style close to high-tech or minimalism. Sometimes the glass top is installed on top of a wood frame or wood top with holes. In any case, the product turns out to be futuristic. The tabletop is usually made of tempered glass, it is not only shock-resistant, but also much stronger than wood, and the surface is quite difficult to scratch. The legs are attached to the glass tabletop with special fasteners. Such a table can be easily made by yourself if you order glass cutting from a specialized organization.

Transforming tables are a separate category of tables that, when folded, represent a small compact bedside table. If you put it near the wall, then it will take no more than 50 - 60 cm. In the unfolded state, such a table can accommodate from 10 to 15 people. Swing-out table tops are fixed with hinges. The most common form of transforming tables is rectangular, but round tables are also found.

Do-it-yourself wooden dining table

To make a wooden table with your own hands, you need to have a workshop, since there will be a lot of dust, and it makes no sense to litter in an apartment or house. First you need to draw a sketch of the future table indicating the exact dimensions. Then the sawing of wooden elements can be ordered at the sawmill, if it is not possible to do it yourself. Consider making the simplest wooden dining table.

We need the following materials and tools:

• Hacksaw;
• Jigsaw;
• Drill;
• Milling machine;
• Plane;
• Paint brush;
• Bolts;
• Emery cloth and sander;
• Wooden boards 22 mm thick;
• Furniture board.

The first step is to cut out all the elements according to the sketch. The legs in our case will have a simple straight shape with cutouts that can be easily made with a jigsaw, and then cleaned with a grinder and chamfered.

The legs of the kitchen table, according to the drawing, consist of two horizontal elements (supports), with which the table rests on the floor surface, and two vertical elements (rack legs). They are connected to each other by a simple bolt connection (bolts 8 mm). The bolts are fastened through and on the reverse side they are locked with a nut. The assembly starts from the bottom, first one vertical leg-stand is attached to the supports, then the same is done with the second leg. Then a longitudinal connection is inserted into a special groove between the vertical legs-racks - a board-jumper. It is fixed by the second vertical elements of the support legs.

The next stage is the installation of the countertop. We put the finished furniture board and in the place where it is planned to fix the vertical elements of the legs, we install horizontal transverse stiffeners. These elements have a length equal to the width of the table top. Then a flange made of wooden blocks is installed on top. The technology for attaching the flanges to the tabletop and horizontal transverse stiffeners is easier to understand by watching the video at the end of the article. The strapping / flanging beam is attached through the ribs of the stiffeners with two self-tapping screws.

First, the beams are attached to the long sides of the tabletop, then perpendicular beams are attached to them with self-tapping screws, located along the narrow side of the table. As a result, there is a free space between the tabletop and the flange beams, which does not look very aesthetically pleasing. A decorative wooden plank is used to cover it. To fix it to the uneven bars, dowels are used. Holes for dowels are made in the bars and planks. Then wooden cylinders, which are called dowels, pins or pins, are inserted into the holes of the strapping bars, having previously greased the hole with glue. Then a decorative strip is put on the protruding dowels. The table top is ready.

It remains only to screw the table legs to the table top. For this, the same bolts are used as for attaching the vertical legs to the horizontal supports. It is better to make holes for them in advance.

The design of this table turned out to be collapsible, after a feast it can be disassembled into screws and hidden in a closet or behind a closet. You can see more clearly the sequence and technology of making a wooden table with your own hands in the video instructions below.

Best remembered for a poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, where there is not enough space. To help you design a table that will only be remembered for its good looks, we provide some basic standards here.

HEIGHT OF THE TABLE. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE FEET... The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer side is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

Knee space... The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is moved up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimum is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THIGH... The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer side is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on a given chair pulled up to the table. Minimum 15 cm.

SPACE FOR ELOCKS... Side space on the table for everyone. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

DEPTH FOR HANDS... Front desk space for everyone seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm is too much.

CHAIR SPACE... The distance from the edge of the table top to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away from the table. The architects say that you need a minimum of 90 cm, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Side table

When you hear the word table, don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Aren't you thinking about a table like the one drawn here? Yes, this design is the most primordial of the original. In the simplest version, a table - of a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and side girdle form a solid yet open supporting structure. Structurally, many tables are side-belt tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, writing table. As you leaf through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table is usually found in a kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of being robust. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. Plus, the generous dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong joinery connections. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with a side belt, many variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered, or carved. Even tsars can influence the look of the table.

Design options

For example, a round table with the same chiseled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square side-belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant Queen Anne-style cabriole legs of the table, the massive drawers make it a work table. The cutaway drawers at the third table create significant visual and practical differences by making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room.

Country style table

This table is called by various names - country-style table, retro-style table, bar table - and by many different names. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with chiseled legs and prongs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawer belt and prongs. Legs, especially as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the strips can extend the life of the table for years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in the countryside and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do indeed have massive punctures - albeit badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one mid-leg instead of two longitudinal ones to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had perimeter pro-legs. The design is straightforward. The trestles and projections cut with spikes into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, pins, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you need a flat, rectangular surface for the drawer-to-leg connections. At the country-style table, you can also change the prongs - both in appearance,
and by their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Side table with drawer and drawer

The name "table with a side-belt" refers rather not to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen desks, library desks, writing desks, and the like. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two enhances the functionality of the desk as the tools that are used to use it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases a small drawer is sufficient, in others the largest possible drawer is required. There are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a drawer. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the tsar. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a risk of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the tsar with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90 ° to match the width of the leg. Spike joints provide rigidity. The design with two - supra-drawer and under-drawer - bars is preferable, since the upper block will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design options

Installation of a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsarovy belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the tsarovy belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the tsarga.

An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central support. Its tabletop is attached to a center post, set on low, diverging legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the seated feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk toppling the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the B-pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval table top and - in accordance with the major and minor axes of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the table top brackets are connected with double spikes in the lugs. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square core rail to form an upwardly flared center support.

The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-support tables or put an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to the multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased tilt resistance. Although the footprint may be noticeably less than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of foot can be reasonably stable due to the weight of the foot.

Put a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its shape has been greatly improved, but it remains an easy-to-manufacture collapsible table. Its elementary form is a panel or plywood sheet on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles cease to be free-standing, then such an assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half-wine goat consists of a fairly wide rack, cut into a leg at the bottom and a table top bracket at the top. The wider the trestle, the better the table will resist swinging from side to side. A long massive prod is cut into the racks. The table top is fixed to the trestle with screws, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is plenty of legroom under the tabletop, you shouldn't forget about the slip so that you don't bump your shins while sitting at the table. Also, the ends of the table top should protrude 35–45 cm beyond the trestle to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many gantry tables are collapsible. Common ways of attaching collapsible table parts are shown on the next page.

Design options

Thinking about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats were similar to saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Penilvan Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this uniform to America, and it can still often be found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian shakers), who made many trestle tables, usually used graceful "high rise" legs

The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional lid board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a side belt, cut into two parts and re-connected using special runners. Runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth on the table top should be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one person sitting.

Design options

The design of the sliding table can be varied, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and countertops has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with a sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, an additional leg may be required to support the middle section. And don't forget the importance of small details - for example, attaching the drawers to the table top.

Sliding table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table, which has some advantages over a table with a side belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this shape as well. With such a table it is quite possible to make a sliding, folding, and hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding cover with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is split in two and the halves are connected by special sliding rails. Thus, these two cover sheets can be pushed apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the cover and the area of ​​the support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a corresponding cover sheet. When the cover is pushed apart, the support is also separated.

Design options

The basic form has a support that divides when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then a sliding table can be made on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two legs. The table with support for each sliding half can be extended by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with pull-out sections. It is easy to manufacture and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of a table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of tsars and legs is the presence of slots in the end tsars. The difference lies on top of the side bars and legs. Instead of attaching the countertop to the side girdle, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, fit onto the side leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the side bars. The existing center board, dividing the side sections, is fixed with screws on the side bars. The table top fits on top of the center board and side sections, but is not secured firmly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the cover. The skids are equipped with stops that do not allow the section to be extended too far. When extended, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the structure, you do not have to go looking for them in closets and closets when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You just slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design options

The system with pull-out sections can be combined with all types of table supports, provided the drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-support table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-linear shapes. When folded, the side section is retracted under the lid and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the lid, then the table will probably look rather strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section underneath a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and drawers.

Two-base table with pull-out
sections

A table with a sliding folding top (table top) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover by means of hinges and when folded lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the "double" tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back on the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the underframe, which creates sufficient space under the table for sitting. The Y-shape of the legs will provide ample legroom for those seated at the ends of the table.

Design options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the countertop above the baseboard (to ensure stability), the size of the base unit should be close to the size of the folded countertop. Therefore, a foldable table top should be used on a type of table that would not look odd if the top overhang is too small. Good options for this use include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here), and other special purpose tables and tables. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding lids are commonly found in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However, the sliding mechanism will work here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a "generic" name for all tables in which the sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common species and has been found throughout American history. In any furniture style, from William and Mary to modern style, you will find a drop-board table, and this table has drop-boards as part of the structure. When not in use, they can be lowered to an upright position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. In the example shown here, slide-out holders are used — you lift the board and slide the support arms out from under it (much like a drawer). Some other support systems see table with swivel frame legs, with swivel legs for a book table and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the drop boards, which can be optimally supported by the extendable or swivel / articulated arms. Make drop boards relatively narrow — say no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections — see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long flip board like the example shown here would require more than one bracket, but this prototype got an interesting twentieth century name that applies to a relatively long utility table with flip top. This name, which can be translated as "Passion," creates in consciousness a picture of a large table spread out ", filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a drop-down table or a folding table.

Design options

While the base dining table is fairly long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular table top with sharp corners, the drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (table top) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. A short or square base can be fitted with a round, square or oval countertop. You can round the corners of the flap sections or make their outer edges curved.

A book-table is the Russian name for a table with pivoting frame supports, which are hingedly attached to the tsar-leg-prong assembly. The support post is connected to the pivot post by the upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The pivot bearing was the predecessor to the pivot foot. It has many structural elements that reflect the state of the art of carpentry in the 16th century when it first appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and provides an excellent support for the folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), tables with one folding board and one swivel support were often found, and it happened, and vice versa, there were several leviaths with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were generally very narrow and saved a lot of space. A large table with two pivot legs on each dropboard could be made so that the legs pivot towards each other or away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the support posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will be positioned side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.

Design options

A significant advantage of a book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A secure support under the drop board makes the table very stable, even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide drop-boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge table top

This table can rightfully be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, which consists of a side bar, legs and a prodrug, then the swivel leg is attached only to the side bar. The result is a lightweight appearance. Size rather than pivot foot assembly is characteristic of this table. The diameter of the tabletop is only 107 cm and will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used for both actual breakfast and games and teas. Larger tables are likely to need additional pivot feet for improved support for the folding boards. The pivot joint - actually a wooden hinge - makes the pivot foot realizable. A sleeker option than shown here makes the connection look like a metal hinge.

Design options

The design of a swivel table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne-style table as the “base” table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The foot profile will usually be a style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Heppleight tables were made with tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Unfolded folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a frame pivot table over a pivot leg table is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, additional legs support them. An extendable leg table also has this advantage over a pivot table, but has one advantage over a frame pivot table: Like a pivot table, this table has an additional leg for each flap. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbeams are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal side bars, and are extended through the cutouts in the side bars. The leg is attached to the rungs. Raise the flip board, extend the leg, and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the drop-board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can hold very wide drop-boards.

Design options

Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each with excellent stability thanks to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is unobtrusive. By expanding the game table and pulling out the additional leg, you will receive a support at each corner of the tabletop. Ideally. The extendable legs are also a great addition to a long drop-down table. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too much on it.

The armchair table owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and draughty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could serve more than one function, well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly versatile. With the lid down, this is a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and graceful in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with dowel-to-socket connections. The pronounced shoe-shaped end of the leg makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is secured with a dovetail inset.

If you dream of having a pleasant time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table at which a company of your friends and loved ones can accommodate. And you can do it with your own hands, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four options for projects of a country table at once - two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural whole, and, finally, a round table. You should think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of the table that would suit your needs and match the style of your garden plot.

Pull-out picnic tables - mobility comes first

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can neatly fit in the folded form in the garage, and, on occasion, move to the street again. Furniture mobility is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a wooden garden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a master, carpenter, carpenter, gardener, in general, the owner wakes up in a person. Buying furniture for a suburban area is a simple matter, but not everyone can make a wooden table for a summer residence with their own hands. You should immediately be ready for the fact that you will be making a garden table with your own hands for several days. But the following tips will help you make a solid table yourself.

Today we will design a rather simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. These tables not only look great, but also have a fairly robust design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer residence, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

• Bearing frame - section 38 X 90 mm.
• Table top - section 38 X 140 mm.
• Supporting strips - section 19 X 64 mm.

1. Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find on the Internet, or to make drawings of a table for a summer residence yourself. The exact schematic designation will allow you to select the lumber that will be most suitable in cross-section to the dimensions indicated in the diagram. It doesn't matter if the dimensions do not quite match each other, because you can always make a fit using an electric planer.

1. Material preparation

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the question responsibly, since the life of the furniture will depend on this:

• purchase of blanks. Professionals advise purchasing coniferous sawn timber that has been well dried beforehand. Its main advantages are:
  • price;
  • simplicity and ease of manual processing;
  • beautiful structure;
• furniture glue;
• 4 X 65mm screws;
• 3mm drills;
• drill;
• tape measure, pencil, sandpaper for grinding.

1. Further actions

We will need:

• two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
• four legs for a country table with your own hands, 38 X 90 X 695 mm in size;
• two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
• one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
• two pieces of braces 38 X 90 X 772 mm each;
• worktop blanks - seven pieces, 38 X 90 X 2337 mm in size;
• six support bars - 19 X 64 X 432 mm.

Tip: you should start working on a flat surface. It is imperative to observe the joint angles of the parts. The workpieces, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10 °. The slices must be parallel. But the blanks of the bowstring, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the transverse beams and fasten this entire structure with screws. Each connection has two screws.

We screw the bowstring diagonally to the leg from the inside, in the same way fastening the structure with two screws.

The lower beam must connect both bowstrings to each other. As mentioned above, using screws.

Further, in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams, holes are first made for a fastener called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the existing screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for extra strength. Remove excess immediately.

We put the braces on the screws.

Tip: workpieces intended for bracing should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

We fasten the blanks for the tabletop with our own hands with screws to the cross beams.

How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

After developing a work plan and approving the blueprints for the dacha table, acquire all the materials needed for this project. Choose wood for outdoor use - pine, cedar, mahogany, or extruded wood. When buying, check each board: they must be perfectly level and free of any visible defects. Do not skimp on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all weather adversities.

There are several important points that you must take into account if you want the result obtained to be of a high professional level. Do not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of a professional tool when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the structure, you can additionally use waterproof glue to hold the parts together. Round off open edges with a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Dimensions are converted from inch units and may not match metric units. Choose the lumber that is as close as possible to the size. Or just customize it yourself.

Tools required for project implementation:

• hacksaw, jigsaw;
• milling cutter;
• drill and drill;
• chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
• protective goggles and gloves.

Time:

• From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. With power tools at your disposal, you can finish your job even faster - in just a few hours.

Advice:

• A router will help smooth the edges of wooden blocks and planks.
• Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill pilot holes in the wooden structural elements.
• The heads of the screwed-in self-tapping screws should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this the entrance parts of the holes must be countersinked.
• Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
• Do not use excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

Diy picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

• A - Legs: bars 5 × 10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) And 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
• B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Table top: boards 5 × 15 cm, 180 cm long (6 pcs.);
• D - The base of the table top: boards 5 × 15 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.), Bars 5 × 10 cm, 62 cm long (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the blocks of the required size. You can use a circular saw to speed up the process. Smooth the edges of the sticks and sawed lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no gaps or gaps.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar, using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut the ends of the bars as shown in the figure.

Lay the boards for the countertop on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form even gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the tabletop and fix them by screwing the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Use a spirit level to make sure the legs and table top are square before fixing.

Place the sawn pieces of 5 × 15 cm boards on the underside of the tabletop and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing struts, at an angle of 45º. Place the supports in their place and secure with 90 mm self-tapping screws screwed in at an angle.

And finally, last but not least, check if the caps of the screws are protruding above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of outdoor paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instruction with drawings

Materials:

• A - Legs: bars 5 × 10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pcs.);
• B - Bars: bars 5 × 10 cm, length 160 cm (2 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop fixing: bars 5 × 10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
• D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm, length 84 cm (2 pcs.);
• E - Table top: boards 5 × 10 cm, 180 cm long (14 pcs.).

It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut off at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is level enough. The mounted sides of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making the wooden tabletop. We recommend that you hammer it on the ground (floor), and then fix it to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Remember to use a spirit level to make sure the sides of the table are vertical, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy.

Secure the entire structure firmly with inclined struts. Their ends should first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now all that remains is to build the benches. Saw off the boards of the required size, place them on both sides of the table and, after having drilled several guide holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To distribute the seat boards evenly, place studs or pieces of plywood between them before attaching. With this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to the small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the filler has dried, sand the wood surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect the wood surfaces from water and sunlight.

Round table. We do in the country on our own

Materials:

• A - Base: a 5 × 10 cm bar, 102.5 cm long (1 pc.) And 47 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5 × 10 cm bars, 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
• B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, length 60 cm (4 pcs.);
• C - Tabletop base: bars 5 × 10 cm, 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) And 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5 × 10 cm bars, 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) And 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
• D - Table top: boards 2.5 × 15 cm, 195 cm long (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To join its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners of the bars to be joined are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting when exposed to rainwater, place it on small stands made of 2.5 x 10 cm board scraps.

Now you need to attach four posts made of square bars to the base. Make sure they are vertical with a spirit level before fixing. The height of the legs may differ from that offered by us, in this case you should, first of all, be guided by your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of the countertop. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Attach one end of the 60 cm rail at this point. Rotate the other end of the staff to mark the outline of the circle. The sharp-blade jigsaw allows you to make a circular cut in a professional manner.

After cutting the boards of the future countertop, we recommend that you fasten them together with waterproof glue and additionally fix them with several clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the countertop, as shown in the figure (yellow elements should be made from 5 × 10 cm bars, green ones from 2.5 × 10 cm bars).

Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws to attach the bars to the countertop (30 mm self-tapping screws for attaching 2.5 × 10 cm bars and 50 mm for fastening 5 × 10 cm bars).

After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop using 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling the pilot holes. Use a spirit level to control the perpendicularity of the legs and table top.

For the result of your work to correspond to a high professional level, make sure that the caps of the screws are sunk deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of exterior paint or stain to protect the table from moisture deterioration. To keep the base pads untouched by the water, place the table on a concrete surface and seal them hermetically.

Now you know how to make a picnic table yourself. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations from friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.