Making a round table from wood. Original and functional: how to make a wooden table with your own hands

It is nice to gather in the evening at a large table with the whole family. Even nicer - when the table is made by hand. What shape the table should be - it's up to you: square, rectangular or round. The circle is the perfect shape. It is no coincidence that in nature there are a lot of analogues of this form - the sun, the moon, the rings on the saw cuts of a tree.

It is proved that the circle gives harmony, has a beneficial effect on the psychological comfort of a person. Round tables are often used to create a relaxed and informal atmosphere in business meetings. If you doubt how it will fit into the interior, you can consider a photo of a handmade round table.

The round table of the house will fit well into any interior. The most budget option is to make a round table with your own hands. Despite the fact that at first glance it seems quite complicated, assembling such a table will be quite simple.

What are the options for round tables

A round table is not only a tabletop with legs. Furniture manufacturers decided to diversify the variations of the products offered and made several options (which can then be easily repeated at home):

The central leg or curbstone - one.
Three legs.
Four pillars.
Several supports in the middle.
Tables can have several shelves, drawers that slide out, cabinets and more. Can be sliding, folding and transformers.

The material for the manufacture of a round table can be varied. For its production, MDF, plywood, stone (natural or artificial), plastic, metal, glass can be used.

DIY wooden table at home

Before making a round table, determine its dimensions - it should be small, a coffee table, a large or medium dining table. Do not forget to take into account the size of the room in which the table will stand. Before production, it is necessary to determine in advance the drawings and dimensions of round tables.

What materials are needed to make a round table? In order to make a table out of wood with your own hands, you will need timber, wood glue (carpentry), metal corners (each table leg will require 3 pieces), self-tapping screws, varnish or waterproof impregnation in order to process wood.

Additional tools that you may need - a saw or a jigsaw, a pencil, a tape measure, a drill, brushes, sandpaper, a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

Preparatory stage

Before all work, you must read the instructions on how to properly make a round table. All parts require careful preparation before assembly. For the countertop, you will need material in the form of a disk or a circle.

Plywood should be sanded and covered with several layers of varnish. The procedure for grinding and varnishing must be repeated with the legs for the table. They are attached to the tabletop with a plywood ring.

Assembly

On the plywood ring, you must first make markings for future holes - legs will be placed there. On the markup, you need to drill holes of the required diameter with a drill. The legs are a bar sawn into 4 parts. Before fixing them on the countertop, they must be processed.

Use a screwdriver to attach to the ring. Be sure to fix the legs well - this will give reliability and stability to the table. Between the legs under the tabletop, you can install two plywood planks crosswise. This will add even more stability to the structure.

After completing the assembly of the round table, as soon as the glue dries, you can begin to decorate the structure. For this, varnish, stain or paint is used. In order for the table to serve for a long time and look beautiful, you can use varnish and stain together. First, saturate the entire surface with a stain, and then comes the stage of varnishing.

Using products that contain a coloring pigment, you can even give ordinary plywood a noble look of expensive materials - mahogany, oak or beech. To do this, it is necessary to use a transparent furniture varnish during the finishing. Applied with a foam paint roller. This will allow you to apply the varnish evenly and without bubbles.

If you plan to use furniture in your backyard, use water-based acrylic paints for decoration. To do this, it will be necessary to add a special pigment to the white enamel.

Note!

Making and assembling a round table with your own hands is a very simple and exciting process. You can embody any ideas on how to make a round table with your own hands, there are no restrictions on imagination and materials.

DIY round tables photo

Note!

There are no such owners who would not like to furnish their home with stylish, beautiful, practical furniture. One of the elements of the interior, which cannot be dispensed with in any home, is a table. Despite the wide selection of these products, many home craftsmen try to make a round table with their own hands, because this way you can be sure that the product will fit perfectly into the interior. This solution has its pros and cons associated with some process difficulties.

A round table is an excellent option for creating a comfortable environment in the kitchen, living room, children's room, veranda, gazebo. The absence of corners eliminates the possibility of bruises, contributes to an atmosphere of comfort and intimacy. However, it should be remembered that such a piece of furniture will not fit into every interior.

If you have the skills to handle household tools, patience and attentiveness, making a round table is not difficult at all.

The decision to make a round table out of wood yourself has the following advantages:

Saving the family budget. Factory products are much more expensive. The added value is several times higher than the price of raw materials. The cost of making a round table with your own hands includes only the purchase of wood and fasteners.
Choice of model. It is not always possible to find the right product in stores. Self-design, assembly allow you to compile elements of different models, creating your own unique version.
Choice of size, configuration. Furniture is made for a room with a certain shape and a limited area. Sometimes the rooms are so small that not a single factory thing fits in them. The way out is a portable round table to the kitchen with your own hands.
Getting the necessary experience. Having assembled a very complex structure, the home master will be able to develop further, bringing new projects to life.

The downside is that it is quite difficult for beginners to make a round tabletop on their own. In addition, there is a need to purchase special tools, without which it is impossible to obtain perfectly even edges.

Family budget savings

Choice of model

Choice of size, configuration

Getting the necessary experience

Popular Designs

To make a round table with your own hands, various ideas are used that can be gleaned from magazines, thematic pages on the net, by visiting furniture stores. The most popular designs today are:

Coffee table. As a rule, such items are made in multi-tiered design with open shelves. Their walls simultaneously serve as legs.
Kitchen table. Well suited for small spaces where there is a free corner. Sloping edges allow you to freely move a piece of furniture around the room. If necessary, a sliding shelf for appliances is installed.
Dining. A large wooden round table will fit perfectly into the interior of the living room, which has a square shape. The product will look especially good against the background of cabinet furniture made of solid wood.
Folding. A do-it-yourself oval table with folding tops is an indispensable solution for small apartments. When assembled, it takes up little space, in working condition it can accommodate a large number of guests.

When developing a scheme for how to make a round table with your own hands, you should consider not only its dimensions, but also the configuration of the space under the table top. Presentability, stability, ease of use of the product depend on its design.

Magazine

Kitchen

Dining

Folding

The underframe of a round table can be like this:

4 legs. A classic that has stood the test of time. The advantage is that such furniture is stable and easy to use. People do not need to think about where to attach their legs, as there is enough space for this.
With jumper. This design of the table is practical, durable, easy to manufacture. The disadvantage is that the knees of those sitting will constantly rest against the crossbar.
Crosshairs. This model is more suitable for rooms decorated in country style. Sitting at such a table will be moderately comfortable.
One pole with cross or disc. The furniture looks spectacular and takes up little space due to its compactness. Stability is achieved by mounting a heavy wide base. Otherwise, a homemade round table on one leg will constantly tip over.
Modern developments. Curvilinear supports, diverging from below and from above, come into fashion. Comfortable and practical models, in which the legs are connected by a threshold, which makes the sitting process more comfortable.

Priority is given to projects that best match the interior of the room where the furniture will be located.

4 legs

with jumper

One pole with cross

Crosshairs

Modern developments

Material selection

When choosing a material for the manufacture of a round table, it is necessary to take into account the following criteria:

strength;
durability;
ease of processing;
moisture resistance;
beauty and attractiveness;
compatibility with the interior;
own abilities and skills.

For different parts of the table, you can use the same or different material. It all depends on the taste preferences of the owner and the initial project.

for countertop

There are such options for making a round table:

Wood. The massif of a pine, an oak, a beech, an ash-tree is used. The raw material is easily amenable to all types of processing, has a presentable appearance. Finished products organically fit into any interior, both indoors and outdoors. The downside is that wood is susceptible to moisture, insects and mechanical damage.
Chipboard. For manufacturing, it is better to take laminated boards, which are durable, affordable cost. The disadvantage of finished tables is the loose structure of the material, in which self-tapping screws do not hold well.
Monolithic polycarbonate. The material is beautiful, very strong, but easily scratched and melted from contact with hot objects.
Plywood. A round plywood table is made of a waterproof material with a thickness of at least 16 mm. The plates are durable, with a beautiful surface, but sensitive to moisture.
Metal. Strong and resistant to all types of impact base. The downside is that working with stainless steel requires special tools and professional skills.

For a round table top, it is advisable to choose materials that fit well into the environment. So, glass, chipboard and solid wood are suitable for the kitchen. When making a table for a gazebo, it is better to stay on plastic or metal. Such products without consequences will endure changes in humidity and temperature. We should not forget about the aesthetic side of the issue. Putting practicality and durability first, it is easy to lose in design. However, here you can find a golden mean using various surface decor options.

Wood

Chipboard

Monolithic polycarbonate

Plywood

Metal

For foundation

The best choice for a round table would be metal, which is almost impossible to damage. Depending on the place where the round table will be installed, the choice is made among the following materials:

profile pipe. Products from black, galvanized, stainless steel or aluminum are used.
Corrugated fittings. Inexpensive and durable raw materials that must be regularly cleaned and treated against corrosion.
Water pipes. The advantage is that ready-made shaped parts can be used to connect them.

The next in strength will be solid wood with a cross section of 20 mm or more and chipboard with a thickness of at least 12 mm. It is better to connect panels with bolts, nuts with wide washers. Self-tapping screws do not provide a sufficient margin of safety. Plywood should be discarded, as it bends even under small loads. The exception is light coffee tables that do not experience a lot of stress.

As for the base for the round table, here strength should come first, and convenience and presentability should come second.

profile pipe

corrugated reinforcement

Water pipes

solid wood

Plywood

Tools and fasteners

To make a round table from wood, you will need the following tools:

roulette;
level;
hacksaw;
drill;
screwdrivers;
compass;
miter box;
Grinder;
pencil;
clamps.

If you plan to work with metal, then you need to purchase a grinder, welding machine, electrodes. In addition, a steel disk and iron rods are useful for assembly.

To make a wooden round table with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

steel corners;
self-tapping screws;
boards 20 mm with selected edges;
timber 50 x 50 mm;
wood glue;
furniture varnish;
stain;
edge tape;
acrylic paint;
antiseptic.

When drilling and grinding, it is advisable to use a gauze bandage, goggles. To ensure the safety of manufacturing a round wooden table, you must purchase powder and foam fire extinguishers in advance, which can be used to extinguish fires if they occur during operation.

Dimensioning and drawing preparation

The beginning of making a round table with your own hands is to determine its dimensions and configuration. The strength, stability, practicality of the product depends on the correctness of the calculations. The basis for the calculations are the following criteria:

the total area of the premises;
the presence of other furniture, the place of its installation;
purpose of the subject;
leg height;
configuration;
the optimal size to meet the assigned tasks.

It is necessary to think over so that even on the most beautiful round table you can easily arrange a set of dishes for the whole family. In this case, it is desirable to provide a reserve for 1-2 guests.

After that, design documentation is prepared, where dimensions, hole diameters, distance between parts are drawn. Detailed detailing will allow you to perform work with a high degree of accuracy. Drawings can be done both on paper and on a computer. The choice is determined by individual skills and experience in carrying out similar work.

Master class on creating a round table made of wood

Making, assembling a round table with your own hands should be carried out in a well-ventilated area on a flat and clean surface. A bucket, broom and dustpan should be prepared in advance to keep the work area clean throughout the assembly process. If you plan to use strong-smelling and toxic substances, then it is necessary to warn family members about this, isolate pets.

Fire safety measures should also be taken into account. To extinguish a fire, you need to prepare a container with water and a powder fire extinguisher to eliminate possible ignitions of electrical appliances and tools. We should not forget about our own health. During work, injury is not excluded. To provide first aid, you need to have a first aid kit with a set of necessary tools and medicines on hand. The emergency phone must be in a visible place.

Manufacturing and assembly

The manufacturing process of a round table consists of the following steps:

Impregnation of the material with an antiseptic. After that, the wood should dry completely.
Treatment of workpieces with a hydrophobic agent. Drying oil is well suited for this.
Sawing boards into fragments of the desired length. Lubrication of the grooves with glue, alternately attaching new segments. Fixing the shield made with clamps. To increase the strength, several rails can be screwed on the underside.
Table cutting. The contour of the circle or oval of the table is made using a compass or twine with a pencil. Then all the excess is cut off.
Attaching the legs to the center of the shield with metal corners.
Production of jumpers in the amount of 8 pieces. Sawing is carried out at an angle of 45 degrees.
Assembly of a cross with sides equal to the diameter of the tabletop.
Attaching the cross to the leg with steel corners.
Screwing jumpers to the bottom of the tabletop, cross.

At this stage, the assembly is completed. You can proceed to the final processing of the finished product. If desired, the table is decorated according to your own taste.

Cut boards to desired length

Lubricate the grooves with glue, alternately attach new segments

Fix the made shield with clamps

Cut out the countertop

Insert the tabletop into the frame

Trim the frame

Cut jumpers

Assemble crosses

Attach cross to leg

Screw jumpers

Finishing

Finishing includes the following steps:

Made parts are processed by a grinding machine. The final polishing is carried out with a zero sandpaper. The quality of work is checked visually and tactilely. The finished surface should be smooth, without protruding parts.
Putty. During or before processing, holes, chips and cracks may form on the table top. They need to be sealed with a special wood putty, silicone or putty.
The product is dust free. Depending on the chosen design, the wood is stained or fired with a blowtorch.
The table is finished with paint or varnish. To achieve an even, durable layer, apply 2-3 layers.
End tape is attached. For fixing, use an adhesive that is resistant to temperature and humidity changes.

In conclusion, additional elements are installed - shelves, sills, forged ornaments.

Clean the product, cover with stain

Paint the product

Lacquer

Finished table

creative ideas

To give housing more originality and attractiveness, non-standard approaches to the manufacture of furniture are used. You can use one of the following ideas:

Bottoms made of boards from giant decommissioned barrels. The existing inscriptions only emphasize the interesting history of the product. The lower edges of the tables can be equipped with thresholds made of iron staples or chopped wood.
Saw cut trunks of large diameter. Their edges may be rounded or remain with the bark. A wild tree looks very good in gazebos, on verandas and in the hallways of country houses.
Coils from the power cable. Products are comfortable, large, stable. They just need finishing touches. Service inscriptions add originality.
Solid wood carved. The holes made are filled with epoxy. It looks very unusual.

The round table helps to create an atmosphere of intimacy in the house. And if it is made by hand, it will surely become a favorite of all family members. Exclusive design will help to give the room individuality and unique style.

Video

A photo

A circle - perfect figure. It is no coincidence that it is he who has the most analogues in nature: solar circle and the disk of the moon in the sky, vegetables and fruits round in section, annual rings on the top of a tree...

It is noted that harmonious the shape of the circle also contributes to the psychological comfort person. Yes, to create laid-back informal atmosphere at a business meeting round table.

round table fine fits in in any interior, be it small kitchen or spacious living room. The lack of corners makes the table elegant, but more costly. The budget solution is make him on his own. For all the seeming complexity, cutting and assembling a round table is not a problem for a home masters.

Round table options

It would seem that everything is clear here - round countertop on legs. However, manufacturers offer such diversity round tables that run your eyes!

The first thing you notice is the amount supports. Options several:

one big central leg or cabinet;
3 legs;
4 legs;
several legs in the middle.

However, the number of legs design differences round tables are not limited. The table can have shelves, cabinet, sliding boxes and various add-ons. Like other tables, there are round folding and sliding, as well as transformers.

Barbecue table, also known as a barbecue table or a fire table.

Round folding table,

Round (roulette + card table).

Finally, material from which the round table is made. Classic version - tree array. The wooden table looks nice and solidly Looks great in both classic and modern interiors.

Also for the manufacture of round tables are used such materials, how:

chipboard, chipboard;
MDF;
plywood;
natural or fake diamond;
glass;
plastic;
metal.

Round table made of wood

For starters, you need to decide on dimensions table. It can be small, medium or large, depending on whether it is or, for example,

It also takes into account such an important factor as dimensions the room for which the future table is intended.

We will manufacture small and very simple wood table with three legs.

Materials and tools

To do wooden round table with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

beam, boards;
carpentry glue for wood;
metal corners(3 pieces for each table leg);
self-tapping screws;
waterproof impregnation for varnish.

Required tools:

pencil, ruler, meter, roulette;
saw, jigsaw;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
drill and drills;
clamps;
brushes;
Sander and sandpaper;
building compass.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. We coat the sidewalls with wood glue boards and put them together. We fasten the structure clamps. For additional strength of the table, you can fasten the boards slats from the wrong side.

Step 2 We draw a circle countertops. To do this, we use the construction compass. If it is not there, it is enough to fasten two bars with a self-tapping screw at the angle we need. Glue an awl to one bar with tape, to the other - pencil. Draw a line. After measuring with a ruler or meter, the resulting circle. If required, repeat the procedure or draw irregularities by hand.

Step 3 Electric jigsaw neatly we cut out the resulting circle. If the countertop is additionally reinforced with slats, then this procedure will take a little longer.

Step 4 We grind everything surfaces countertops. Grinding is very thoroughly, you can't skip anything. The edges of the table are rubbed with emery medium grain paper. on the table and ends there should not be a single chip.

Step 5 Table top edges round off up and down.

Step 6 The legs will be made of timber 40 x 40 mm. Cut to desired length - 70 cm sanding with machine and sandpaper. rounding all corners.

Step 7 On three sides, we fasten on each leg metal corner. It is important to fix all the corners in the same plane. To do this, put a leg on any even surface for attachment to the tabletop. We attach the corners and mark their location with a pencil. Then, in a position convenient for us, fasten corners to the leg with self-tapping screws. This should be done with each leg. This will make the mount more durable because all the corners will have the same position.

Step 8 We mark the location of all legs on the tabletop. For complete compliance, you can turn the table top and put it on the legs. Fasten the legs with screws countertop.

Step 9 From bars of the same or smaller size, as the legs, we make jumpers. We fasten them to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Step 10 We process all parts of the table water repellent by impregnation at least 2 times. Drying of each impregnation layer should be complete (8-10 hours). After that we cover the table varnish. It is enough to apply two layers of transparent varnish, 3-4 layers of colored varnish to get more rich shade.

Note: the surface of the table can be left natural, only emphasizing the natural beauty of wood, or decorated in various ways.

Round glass table

Excellent option for manufacturing - hardened shockproof glass with a thickness of at least 5 mm. This glass is used to make many things, including - showers cabins.

This glass will withstand colossal load and will not break. It can only break pinpoint hard hit in the rib.

At the same time, tempered glass will not fly apart into pieces and fall many rectangular pieces that not dangerous for a person.

However, for cutting and processing hardened glass need special equipment.
At home, you can use to make a table triplex, matte or toned, as well as ordinary glass. If a cutting glass is not your strong point, it would be better to entrust this work specialist. He is professional cut out countertop of the required diameter.

Attention: Self-cutting tempered glass can damage the material.

Manufacturing steps

Step 1. Draw on a sheet of glass a circle. This can be done using compass, stuck in the middle sucker and sticking the needle into its center. Another option could be sample, cut from a sheet of whatman paper or other material. Apply it to glass circle marker.

Step 2 Flip the glass over facial side and clean it from dirt. We wipe soft cotton or microfiber cloth. The glass surface must be clean and dry.

Step 3 Lay a sheet of glass on a flat surface hard surface. In this case, we move the edge close to the edge of the surface. Begin cut from the farthest point of the marked circle. Cutting is done by one continuous movement. If used roller glass cutter, then first you need to dip it in oil(for example, machine). Then around the perimeter we carry out lines from the edge of the circle to the ends of the sheet. Should work Sun.

Step 4 Lay a soft cloth or towel under the circle and gradually break off all "beams".

Step 5 Clean under running water edge the resulting circle. The water will soften the mechanical processing of the glass. Large burrs are removed with file, the rest is polished with coarse, medium and fine grit sandpaper. The file can be wetted with kerosene(turpentine).

Step 6 Required for grinding drill or grinder with a special nozzle. On the nozzle is glued first sandpaper with coarse grain. Then you need to go around in a circle with medium-grit sandpaper and finish with fine-grit sandpaper. Necessarily round off edge edges (top and bottom).

Note: the edge is processed at low speeds to prevent overheating of the glass.

Step 7 We polish the countertop with a circle of felt and polishing paste. If the glass is frosted, then polishing is carried out without paste.

Step 8 As supports for our table we take chromed legs with nickels, which are glued to the tabletop with a special glue, fixed with a UV lamp. In this way, you can fix the legs from any material.

Another way fastening the tabletop to the legs: drill holes in the countertop for nickels using a special drilling crowns with abrasive coating (sold at any hardware store). In this case, it is necessary to mark the location of the legs. To drill did not move from the intended place, you need to stick around the glass with plasticine and pour water there or cut a bar slightly smaller than the crown and put it inside. When drilling constantly add on a glass of water or wet the crown.

Another option - make from chipboard a circle the same diameter as the countertop, and insert screws into it around the entire perimeter with suckers. Such a joint holds much better if it is glued not with ordinary glass glue, but with UV lamp glue.

Attention: wear protective gloves or mittens when cleaning and processing glass.

Product finishing

Decorate The finished product can be produced in a variety of ways. Each of them will make the most ordinary table unique, an author's thing and emphasize the individuality of its owner.

Finishing the table will help more harmoniously put it in the general interior rooms.

In addition, with the help right selected decor can be adjust blunders in the processing of a wooden surface, hide or somehow beat darkening glass tabletop.

Wood the table can be decorated in the following ways:

painting;
mosaic;
marquetry(veneer inlay, wooden mosaic);

craquelure(artificial aging of the surface).

Design techniques glass table:

photo printing;
stained glass painting;
sandblasting treatment;
fusing;
decoration with various fillers.

How to make a wooden round table with your own hands, see video:

A poorly designed dining table is best remembered. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, on which there is not enough space. In order to help you design a table that will only be remembered for its attractive appearance, we will list the basic standards here.

TABLE HEIGHT. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the lid. Usually it is 68–76 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE LEGS. The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawstring is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.

KNEE SPACE. The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is pulled up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimal one is 36–46 cm.

SPACE ABOVE THE HIPS. The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawstring is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on this chair, pushed up to the table. Minimum - 15 cm.

ELBOW SPACE. Side space on the table for each seated. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.

HAND DEPTH. Front space on the table for each seated. Less than 30 cm will be small, and more than 45 cm - too much.

CHAIR SPACE. The distance from the edge of the tabletop to the wall is sufficient to push the chair back when getting up from the table. The architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.

Table with king belt

When you hear the word "table", don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Don't you think of just such a table, as drawn here? Yes, this design is the most original of the original. In the simplest version, a table - a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (tabletop). The legs and the tsarg belt form a strong, but nevertheless open support structure. Structurally, many tables are drawbar tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, desk. Scrolling through the book further, you will come across the original designs of various tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table, as a rule, can be found in the kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of strength. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. In addition, the individual dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong carpentry joints. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with the tsarg belt, many of its variations are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered or carved. Even the kings can influence the look of the table.

Design Options

For example, a round table with the same chiselled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square tsarg belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant cabriole legs of the table in the style of Queen Anne, the massive sides make it a work table. The cut-out drawers at the third table make a significant visual and practical difference, making the table appear lighter and taller and providing more room for the seater's hips.

Country style table

This table is called in different ways - a country-style table, a retro-style table, a bar table - and they represent it differently. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with turned legs and prongs. Prolegs, especially as strong as in the figure, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, prongs can increase the life of the table by years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the XVII-XVIII centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in rural areas and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do have massive legs - although they are badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with one middle prong instead of two longitudinal ones, so that it is more convenient to sit at the table. However, many early tables had pro-legs around the perimeter. The design is uncomplicated. The drawers and prolegs are spiked into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, dowels, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.

Design Options

The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the form of turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you will need a flat, rectangular surface for the side-leg joints. At a country-style table, you can also change the legs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.

Table with drawer belt and drawer

The name "table with a king belt" refers rather than to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, desks, etc. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two adds to the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used when using it can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small box is enough, in others, the largest possible one is required. There are only a couple of ways to include such a box in the design. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the drawer. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the drawer with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90° so that their width matches the thickness of the leg. Studded joints provide rigidity. A design with two - supra-jaw and under-jaw - bars is preferable, since the top bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.

Design Options

Installing a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsar's belt has a square or rectangular shape, then one must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the drawer belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued construction) so that its shape matches the shape of the drawer side.

An alternative to a table with a leg at each corner is a table on one central leg. Its tabletop is attached to a central post mounted on low, flared legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, a table without legs and a drawer side gives unlimited legroom. However, although it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the feet of the seated person. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the area of support by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk tipping the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the center post and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval top and - in accordance with the major and minor axis of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to the racks tapering downwards, and the racks with the tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes into the eyes. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued onto a square-core lath and form a central support that expands upwards.

The table on a support appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-legged tables or placed an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to multi-rack. The structural advantage of multi-column supports is increased resistance to warping. Although the area of support may be noticeably smaller than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of support can be quite stable due to the mass of the support.

Put a wide board on the goats - and you get a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its form has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-make collapsible table. Its elementary form remains a panel or sheet of plywood on a free-standing trestle. And when the trestle stops being free standing, that's when the assembly becomes a table, because they have to be connected to each other, to the top, or both. In the table shown here, each half of the goat consists of a fairly wide stand, cut into the leg at the bottom, and at the top into the table top bracket. The wider the trestles, the better the table resists rocking from side to side. A long massive proleg is cut into the racks. The tabletop is fastened with screws to the goats, and the structure becomes one. Although there is enough legroom under the tabletop, do not forget about the leg so that, while sitting at the table, you do not get bumps on your shins. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35-45 cm beyond the goats to provide enough space for those sitting there. Many trestle tables are designed to be collapsible. Common ways of attaching folding table parts are shown on the next page.

Design Options

Thinking about the shape of the legs and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats looked like saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Pennsylvania Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this form to America, and it is still commonly found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarians-shakers), who made many tables on the goats, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"

The familiar dining table can be extended with an additional cover board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a drawstring belt, cut into two parts and reconnected using special skids. The skids can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top must be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one seated person.

Design Options

The design of the extendable table can vary, as usual, by changing the legs and side. The shape of the drawer side and the tabletop has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then they work with the sliding version as usual. As the extension limits increase, it may be necessary to add an additional leg to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, fastening the drawer side to the tabletop

Extendable table on one leg

A table on one support is the basic form of a table that has some advantages over a table with a drawstring belt. If you need a folding table, don't forget to consider this shape as well. It is quite possible to make such a table both sliding and folding, and a folding cover that will expand it. The most common option is a sliding lid with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is divided in two and its halves are connected by special sliding skids. Thus, these two cover sheets can be moved apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is the key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a respective lid web. When the lid is pulled apart, the support also separates.

Design Options

The basic form has a support that separates when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30-40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then an extendable table can also be made on a non-dividing support. Another option is to make a table on two supports. A table with a support for each sliding half can expand by 90–120 cm.

When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with sliding sections. It is simple to manufacture and use. There is nothing out of the ordinary about the basic structure of the table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of drawers and legs is the presence of slots in the end drawers. The difference lies on top of the drawstrings and legs. Instead of attaching the table top to the drawstring belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, are stacked on top of the drawer legs assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the sides. The existing central board separating the side sections is fixed with screws on the sides. The table top is laid on top of the central board and side sections, but is not fixed tightly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the lid. The skids have stops to prevent the section from being extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt a little at first, but when fully unfolded, it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the design, you won't have to search for them in the closets and storerooms when you need to lay out the table before the guests arrive. You simply slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.

Design Options

The drawer system can be combined with any type of table support provided that the drawer side is available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-leg table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have retractable sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-rectilinear shapes. When folded, the side section retracts under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather odd when folded. For example, a semi-circular side section under a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and the sides.

Two-leg table with sliding
sections

A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite the low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover using hinges and, when folded, lies on the main section (lid). To unfold the table, the “double” tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section leans back onto the underframe. The upper edges of the tsarg should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each skid has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during periods of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the base, which creates enough space under the table for those seated. The U-shape of the legs will provide enough legroom for those sitting at the ends of the table.

Design Options

When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the tabletop over the underframe (ensuring stability), the size of the base part should approach the size of the folded tabletop. Therefore, a folding tabletop should be used on a type of table that does not look odd if the tabletop has a small overhang. Good uses for this include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here) and other special purpose tables and tables. These tables, when folded, can be placed close to the wall. Folding covers are usually used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. Nevertheless, the sliding mechanism is suitable here as well.

A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically the “generic” name for all tables in which sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common sight and has been present throughout American history. In any furniture style, from the style of the times of William and Mary to the modern one, you will find a table with a folding board. In this table, folding boards are part of the design. When not in use, they can be lowered to a vertical position, saving room space. There are many ways to keep the flaps in the raised position. The example shown here uses pull-out holders - you lift the board and pull out the support brackets from under it (much like a drawer). For some other support systems, see a table with swivel frame supports, with swivel legs on a book table, and several card tables. The main thing to consider for this type of table is the width of the folding boards, which can be optimally supported by extendable or swivel/articulated arms. Make relatively narrow folding boards - say, no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections - see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long folding board, like the example shown here, will require more than one bracket. By the way, this example received an interesting name in the 20th century, which is applied to a relatively long utility table with hinged covers. This name, which can be translated as "suffering", creates in consciousness a picture of a large table laid out, crammed with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, people who sat at such a table in the year 1840 or 1880 probably called it a folding table or folding table.

Design Options

While a basic dining table is quite long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular top with sharp corners, a drop-down table can come in almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (tabletop) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. On a shortened or square base, you can install a round, square or oval tabletop. You can round the corners of the folding sections or make their outer edges curved.

Table-book - the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hinged to the assembly of the tsarga-leg-leg. The support post is connected to the turntable by the upper and lower crossbars. The whole support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The swivel bearing became the forerunner of the swivel leg. It has many structural elements reflecting the state of carpentry in the 16th century when it appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is structurally rigid and makes an excellent support for a folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), there were often tables with one folding board and one swivel support, and it happened the other way around - there were several leviathans with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and save a lot of space. A large table with two swivel legs per flip board can be made to swivel both towards and away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then with the folding boards lowered, the support legs of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When rotated away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern.

Design Options

A significant advantage of the book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A solid support under the flap makes the table very stable even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide folding boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge tabletop

This table can rightly be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, consisting of the drawer side, legs and proleg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lighter appearance. Rather, the size, rather than the knot of the swivel leg, is characteristic of this table. The tabletop diameter of only 107 cm will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used both for breakfast and for games and tea parties. Larger tables will likely need additional swivel legs for better support for flip boards. The swivel - actually a wooden hinge - makes the swivel leg workable. A sleeker version than shown here makes the connection look like a metal loop.

Design Options

The design of a swivel leg for a table with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose a Queen Anne style table as our "basic" table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The profile of the stem will typically be the style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel-leg tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in chippendale tables. During the federal
Hepplewhite tables were made with legs tapering downwards, as shown here, and Sheraton style tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.

Folded out folding boards transform
rectangular table to square

The advantage of a table with a frame swivel base over a table with a swivel leg is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, they are supported by additional legs. A table with extendable legs also has this advantage over a table with swivel legs, but it also has one advantage over a table with frame swivel legs. Like a table with swivel legs, this table has an additional leg for each folding board. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a holder of two guides installed between the longitudinal drawers, and are extended through cutouts in the drawers. The leg is attached to the crossbars. Raise the folding board, extend the leg and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the flip board and still have four legs under the fixed table top. This structure can hold very wide folding boards.

Design Options

Here are two very different tables with retractable legs, each of which has excellent stability due to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is not conspicuous. By unfolding the game table and extending the extra leg, you will get a support under each corner of the tabletop. Perfect. Extendable legs also make a great addition to a long table with folding boards. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too hard on it.

The table-chair owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and drafty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could perform more than one function - well, so much the better. The table-chair is clearly universal. With the lid down, it's a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests attached to the sides of the seat with spike-in-socket joints. The pronounced end of the shoe-shaped legs make the chair more stable, and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The tabletop is fastened with a dovetail tie-in.

If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table that can accommodate a company of your friends and relatives. And you can do it yourself, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.

This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.

So that you have a choice, we offer you four options for country table projects at once - two ordinary picnic tables, a table with benches, which are a single structural unit, and, finally, a round table. You must think through all the details in advance and choose the type and size of the table that suits your needs and matches the style of decoration of your backyard.

Folding picnic tables - mobility is paramount

Folding tables are very convenient, and most importantly, practical and simple. They don't take up much space. At any moment, such a table can neatly fit folded into the garage, and if necessary, move again to the street. Furniture mobility is especially appreciated in small areas.

How to make a garden wooden table with your own hands

A dacha is the place where a master wakes up in a person, a carpenter, a carpenter, a gardener, in general, a master. Buying furniture for a suburban area is a simple matter, but not everyone can make a wooden table for a summer residence with their own hands. You should immediately be ready to make a garden table with your own hands for several days. But the tips below will help you make a solid table yourself.

Today we will design a fairly simple country table with our own hands in the Provencal style. Such tables not only look great, but also have a fairly reliable design. It is worth paying attention to the boards. They must be even, since the appearance of our country table will directly depend on this.

When designing a table for a summer residence, it is necessary to prepare lumber in three dimensions:

Bearing frame - section 38 X 90 mm.
Tabletop - section 38 X 140 mm.
Supporting bars - section 19 X 64 mm.

Drawing

Before starting work, the most important thing is to find it on the Internet, or to independently make drawings of a table for a summer residence with your own hands. An accurate schematic designation will allow you to select lumber that will be most suitable in cross section to the dimensions indicated on the diagram. It doesn’t matter if the dimensions don’t exactly match each other, because you can always make an adjustment with an electric planer.

Material preparation

When deciding how to make a garden wooden table, approach the issue responsibly, as the life of the furniture will depend on this:

purchase of blanks. Professionals advise to purchase lumber from coniferous trees, which was previously well dried. Its main advantages are:
- price;
- simplicity and ease of processing by hand;
- beautiful structure;
glue for furniture;
4 X 65 mm screws;
3 mm drill;
drill;
tape measure, pencil, sandpaper for grinding.

Further actions

We will need:

two upper transverse beams, dimensions 38 X 90 X 978 mm;
four legs for a country table with your own hands, size 38 X 90 X 695 mm;
two bowstrings - 38 X 90 X 921 mm;
one longitudinal lower and one upper beam - 38 X 90 X 1575 mm and 38 X 90 X 1473 mm, respectively;
two pieces of braces of 38 X 90 X 772 mm;
blanks for countertops - seven pieces, size 38 X 90 X 2337 mm;
six support bars - 19 x 64 x 432 mm.

Tip: Start work on a level surface. It is imperative to observe the angles of joining parts. The blanks, which will later become the legs of our country table, should be cut on both sides at an angle of 10 °. The slices must be parallel. But the blanks of the bowstring, which are similarly cut at the same angle, should be cut one towards the other.

Stage 2. The legs of our country table should be attached to the cross beams and fasten this entire structure with screws. Each connection has two screws.

We fasten the bowstring diagonally to the leg from the inside, fastening the structure with two screws in the same way.

The lower beam must be connected to each other by both bowstrings. As mentioned above, with the help of screws.

Further, in the upper longitudinal and transverse beams, holes are first made for a fastener, called a dowel, after which we again diagonally connect the blanks of our country wooden table with the available screws.

Tip: when connecting all the elements, use glue for extra strength. Remove excess immediately.

We plant the braces on the screws.

Tip: workpieces intended for braces should first be cut at an angle of 45 degrees

Do-it-yourself blanks for the table top are fastened with screws to the transverse beams.

How to make a rectangular table for a summer residence

After developing a work plan and approving the drawings of a table for a summer residence, purchase all the materials needed for this project. Choose outdoor woods such as pine, cedar, mahogany, or pressed wood. When buying, check each board: they must be perfectly even and without any visible defects. Do not save on the quality of lumber, because your structure will have to withstand all the weather.

There are several important points that you must take into account if you want the result to be of a high professional standard. Do not forget about the accuracy of measurement and the use of professional tools when cutting boards and bars and drilling holes. To increase the reliability of the design, you can additionally use waterproof glue to fasten the parts. Round open edges with a router or sandpaper.

Attention! Sizes are converted from inches and may not match metric measurements. Choose lumber that is as close as possible in size. Or just customize yourself.

Tools needed to implement the project:

hacksaw, jigsaw;
milling cutter;
drill and drills;
chalk cord, tape measure, spirit level, pencil;
safety goggles and gloves.

Time:

From one day to a week, depending on the chosen project. If you have power tools at your disposal, you can finish the job even faster - in just a few hours.

Tips:

A milling cutter will help smooth the edges of wooden bars and boards.
Before screwing in screws and self-tapping screws, drill guide holes in the wooden structural elements.
The heads of the screwed self-tapping screws should not protrude above the wooden surface, and for this the inlet parts of the holes must be countersinked.
Do not use cracked or warped lumber.
Do not apply excessive force when tightening the screws, otherwise the wood may crack.

DIY picnic table. Step-by-step instruction

Materials:

A - Legs: bars 5×10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.);
C - Table top: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
D - Table top base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth out the edges of the bars and saw-off lines with sandpaper.

Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps left.

Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars, as shown in the figure.

Lay the boards intended for the manufacture of countertops on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the table top and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure that the legs and the tabletop are perpendicular using a spirit level.

Place the sawn pieces of 5x15 cm board on the underside of the table top and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.

Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing supports for the structure, at an angle of 45º. Install the supports in their place and secure with 90mm self-tapping screws at an angle.

And finally, last but not least: check if the heads of the screws protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.

Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of exterior paint or stain.

Table with benches. Instruction with drawings

Materials:

A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pieces);
B - Crossbeams: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm (2 pcs.);
C - Tabletop fastening: bars 5×10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
E - Worktop: boards 5×10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).

It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.

Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sidewalls of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.

When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making a wooden table top. We recommend that you put it together on the ground (floor), and then fasten it to the legs with self-tapping screws.

Tip: Don't forget to check the verticality of the side walls of the table with a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.

Rigidly fix the entire structure with inclined supports. Their ends must first be cut at an angle of 26º.

Now it remains only to build benches. Saw the boards to the desired size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several pilot holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.

Tip: To keep the seat boards evenly spaced, place studs or pieces of plywood between them before fixing them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.

At the end of the work, pay attention to small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wooden surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.

Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from water and sunlight.

Round table. We do it on our own in the country

Materials:

A - Base: bar 5x10 cm long 102.5 cm (1 pc.) and 47 cm long (2 pcs.), bars 2.5x10 cm 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, 60 cm long (4 pcs.);
C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm long 195 cm (9 pcs.).

The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articulate its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the joined beams are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting from rainwater, place it on small stands made from 2.5x10 cm board scraps.

Now you need to attach four posts made of square bars to the base. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical with a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from those proposed by us, in this case, you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.

The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of countertops. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Fasten one end of a 60 cm rail at this point. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outlines of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.

After sawing the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together with waterproof glue and additionally fix them with a few clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).

Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws (30mm self-tapping screws for 2.5x10cm bars and 50mm screws for 5x10cm bars) to fasten the bars to the countertop.

After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop with 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and the tabletop.

To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.

Tip: Apply several coats of outdoor paint or wood stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base supports are also untouched by water, place the table on a concrete surface and insulate them hermetically.

Now you know how to make your own picnic table. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.