To understand the process of making an asynchronous electric motor with your own hands, you should know its structure and principle of operation. When following the step-by-step instructions, independently make a structure with minimal cost on materials, since improvised means are used during assembly.

Preparation of materials

Before starting the assembly, you must make sure that you have the necessary materials:

• insulating tape;
• thermal and superglue;
• battery;
• a few bolts;
• bicycle spoke;
• copper wire;
• metal plate;
• nut and washer;
• plywood.

Several tools must be prepared, including pliers, tweezers, knife, scissors.

Manufacturing

First, a uniform winding of the wire is carried out. It is carefully wound onto a reel. To facilitate the process, you can use a base, taking, for example, a rechargeable battery. The density of the winding should not be large, but light is also not needed.

The resulting coil must be removed from the base. Do this carefully so that the winding is not damaged. This is necessary for making a speed controller for the engine with your own hands. The next step is to remove the insulation at the ends of the wire.

At the next stage, they make a frequency converter for an electric motor with their own hands. The design is simple. A hole is drilled in 5 plates with an electric drill, then they should be put on a bicycle spoke, which is taken as an axis. The plates are pressed, while their fixation is carried out using electrical tape, the excess is cut off using a clerical knife.

When the coil passes electricity, the frequency operator creates a magnetic field near him, which disappears after the electric current is turned off. Taking advantage of this property, the attraction and release of metal parts should be carried out, while the electric current is turned on and off.

Making a current interrupter device

Taking a small plate, it is fastened on the axis, for reliability, pressing the structure with pliers. Next, they carry out the manufacture of an electric motor armature winding with their own hands. To do this, you need to take unvarnished copper wire.

Connect one end of it to a metal plate, installing an axis on its surface. Electricity will flow through the entire structure, consisting of a plate, a metal breaker and an axis. Upon contact with the breaker, the circuit is closed and opened, which makes it possible to connect the electromagnet and then disconnect it.

We make a frame

The frame is necessary, since the electric motor allows you not to hold this device with your hands. The frame is made of plywood.

Making an inductor

2 holes are made in the plywood structure, subsequently the electric motor coil is fixed here with bolts. Such supports perform the following functions:

• anchor support;
• performing the function of an electric wire.

After connecting the plates, the structure should be pressed with bolts. In order for the anchor to be fixed in an upright position, a frame is made of a metal bracket. In its design, 3 holes are drilled: one of them is equal in size to the axis, and two are equal to the diameter of the screws.

Cheek making process

Put paper on the nut, punch a hole on top with a bolt. After putting the paper on the bolt, a washer is placed at the top of it. There are four such details to be done. Screwing the nuts is carried out on the upper cheek, put a washer on the bottom and fix the structure with hot glue. The frame structure is ready.

Next, you need to rewind the wire for electric motors with your own hands. The end of the wire is wound on the frame, while twisting the ends of the wire so that the coil is beautiful and presentable. Next, unscrew the nuts to remove the bolt. The beginning and end of the wire are cleaned of varnish, and then the structure is installed on the bolt.

Having made the second coil in this way, it is necessary to connect the structure and check how the electric motor works. The bolt head is connected to the plus. A smooth start of the self-assembled electric motor should be carried out.

You should pay attention to contacts. Before starting, check their connection thoroughness. The structure must be glued with superglue. With an increase in current, an increase in electric motor power occurs.

If the coils are connected in parallel, then the total resistance decreases and the electric current increases. If the structure is connected in series. then the total resistance increases, and the electric current decreases greatly.

Passing through the coil structure, an increase in electric current is observed, which leads to an increase in size magnetic field... In this case, the electric magnet strongly attracts the electric motor armature.

If the structure is assembled correctly, then the operation of the electric motor is fast and efficient. To assemble a model of an electric motor, you do not need any special skills and knowledge.

You can find on the Internet step by step instructions with a photo at each stage. Taking advantage of this, anyone can quickly assemble an electric motor from scrap materials.

Diy photo of electric motors

Consider separate aspects designing. We will not promise to make a perpetual motion machine, similar to the creation attributed to Tesla, but the story is expected to be interesting. We will not bother readers with paper clips and batteries, we suggest talking about how to adapt an already finished motor for your own purposes. It is known that there are a lot of constructions, all are used, but modern literature leaves the basic foundations behind. The authors studied the textbook of the last century, studying how to make an electric motor with their own hands. Now we propose to plunge into the knowledge that constitutes the basis of a specialist.

Why collector motors are often used in everyday life

If we take a 220V phase, the principle of operation of an electric motor on a collector allows us to manufacture devices 2-3 times less massive than when using an asynchronous design. This is important in the manufacture of appliances: hand blenders, mixers, meat grinders. Among other things, it is difficult to accelerate an asynchronous motor above 3000 rpm; for collector motors, this limitation is absent. This makes the devices the only one suitable for the implementation of designs of centrifugal juicers, not to mention vacuum cleaners, where the speed is often not lower.

The question of how to make an electric motor speed controller disappears. The problem was solved long ago by cutting off a part of the supply voltage sinusoid cycle. This is possible, because the commutator motor does not make a difference whether it is powered by a variable or direct current... In the first case, the characteristics fall, but the phenomenon is reconciled due to the obvious benefits. The electric motor is of the collector type and in washing machine, and in the dishwasher. Although the speeds are very different.

Easy to do and reverse. To do this, the polarity of the voltage on one winding changes (if you touch both, the direction of rotation will remain the same). Another problem is how to make an engine with a similar amount component parts... It is unlikely that it will be possible to make the collector on your own, but it is quite possible to rewind and select the stator. Note that the rotation speed depends on the number of rotor sections (similar to the amplitude of the supply voltage). And there is only a pair of poles on the stator.

Finally, using the above design, it is possible to create a universal device. The motor runs without difficulty from both AC and DC. It's just that a tap is made on the winding, when turned on from the rectified voltage, the turns are fully involved, and with a sinusoidal only part. This allows the nominal parameters to be maintained. Making a primitive electric motor of the collector type does not look like an easy task, but it will be possible to completely adapt the parameters to your own needs.

Features of the operation of collector motors

In a collector motor, there are not too many poles on the stator. More precisely, there are only two - north and south. Magnetic field versus asynchronous motors does not rotate here. Instead, the position of the poles on the rotor changes. This state of affairs is ensured by the fact that the brushes gradually move along the sections of the copper drum. The special winding of the coils ensures proper distribution. The poles seem to slide around the rotor, pushing it in the right direction.

To ensure the reverse mode, it is enough to change the polarity of the power supply of any winding. The rotor in this case is called the armature, and the stator is called the exciter. It is permissible to connect these circuits in parallel to each other or in series. And then the characteristics of the device will begin to change significantly. This is described by mechanical characteristics, take a look at the accompanying drawing to represent the approved. Graphs for two cases are conventionally shown here:

1. When the exciter (stator) and the armature (rotor) of the collector motor are supplied in parallel with direct current, its mechanical characteristic is almost horizontal. This means that when the load on the shaft changes, the nominal shaft speed is maintained. This applies to machining machines where the change in speed is not the best way affects the quality. As a result, the part rotates when the cutter touches it briskly, as at the start. If the obstructing torque increases too much, a stall occurs. The engine stops. Summary: if you want to use the motor from the vacuum cleaner to create a metalworking (lathe) machine, it is proposed to connect the windings in parallel, because in household appliances another type of inclusion dominates. Moreover, the situation is understandable. If the windings are supplied in parallel with alternating current, too much inductive resistance is generated. This technique should be used with caution.
2. With the sequential power supply of the rotor and stator, the collector motor has a lovely property - a large torque at the start. This quality is actively used for starting trams, trolleybuses and, probably, electric trains. The main thing is that when the load increases, the speed does not break down. If you start the collector motor in this mode on Idling, the speed of rotation of the shaft will grow immensely. If the power is low - tens of watts - there is no need to worry: the frictional force of bearings and brushes, an increase in induction currents and the phenomenon of magnetization reversal of the core, together, will slow down the growth at a specific value. In the case of industrial units or the aforementioned vacuum cleaner, when its motor is removed from the housing, the speed increase goes like an avalanche. The centrifugal force is so great that the loads are capable of breaking the anchor. Be careful when starting brushed motors with series excitation.

Collector motors with parallel connection of the stator and rotor windings are perfectly adjustable. By introducing a rheostat into the exciter circuit, it is possible to significantly increase the speed. And if such an anchor is attached to the branch, the rotation, on the contrary, will slow down. It is massively used in technology to achieve the desired characteristics.

The design of the collector motor and its relationship with losses

When designing brushed motors, loss information is taken into account. There are three types:

Usually, when supplying a collector motor with alternating current, a series connection of the windings is used. Otherwise, too much inductive reactance comes out.

To what has been said, we add that when the collector motor is supplied with alternating current, the inductive resistance of the windings comes into play. Therefore, with the same effective voltage, the speed will decrease. The stator poles and housing are protected from magnetic losses. It is easy to verify the need for this on simple experience: Power the low-power brushed motor from the battery. Its body will remain cold. But if you file now alternating current with the previous effective value (according to the testimony of the tester), the picture will change. The brushed motor housing will now begin to warm up.

Therefore, they even try to assemble the casing from sheets of electrical steel, riveting or gluing with the help of BF-2 and analogues. Finally, we will supplement what has been said with the statement: sheets are typed along a cross section. Often the stator is assembled according to the sketch shown in the figure. In this case, the coil is wound separately according to the template, then insulated and put back on, simplifying assembly. As for the techniques, it is easier to cut steel on a plasma machine and not think about the price of the event.

Easier to find (in a junkyard, in a garage) already finished form for assembly. Then wind coils of copper wire with varnish insulation under it. Obviously, the diameter is selected larger. First, the finished coil is pulled over the first protrusion of the core, then onto the second. Press the wire so that it remains small at the ends air gap... It is believed that this is not critical. To hold on, at the two extreme plates sharp corners cut off, the remaining ear bends outward, squeezing the ends of the coil. This will help you assemble the engine to factory specifications.

Often (especially in blenders) there is an open stator core. This does not distort the shape of the magnetic field. Since there is only one pole, there is no need to expect much power. The shape of the core resembles the letter P, a rotor turns between the legs of the letter in a magnetic field. Circular cuts are made under the device in the right places. Such a stator is easy to assemble yourself from an old transformer. It's easier than making an electric motor from scratch.

The core in the place of winding is insulated with a steel sleeve, on the sides - with dielectric flanges cut from any suitable plastic.

It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.

There is a secret that will make this set of objects become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:

1.5V battery or rechargeable battery.

Holder with contacts for the battery.

Magnet.

1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the electric motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently flat and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA size battery.

Leaving 5 cm of wires free from each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.

Do not try to wind the coil very tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the coil to better maintain its shape.

Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.

Then wrap the loose ends of the wire several times around the loops to maintain shape, making sure that the new bonding loops are exactly opposite each other.

The coil should look like this:


Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. This is a secret because it is a sophisticated and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of motors may be surprised at the ability of a motor to work until they discover this subtlety.

Keeping the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. Use a sharp knife to remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.

Do the same for the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.

What is the meaning of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that electrical current can flow from one holder through the coil to the other holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.

Now you need to make a support for the coil. They are simply loops of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since, in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.

Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you get the right part our engine.

The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base because with the battery installed it will be heavy enough to keep the motor from shaking.

Put the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil ...


If done correctly, the REEL WILL START SPINNING FAST! We hope that, as in our experiment, everything will work for you the first time.

If, nevertheless, the motor does not work, check everything carefully electrical connections... Does the coil spin freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not enough, install additional magnets or trim the wire holders)?

When the motor starts up, the only thing you need to pay attention to is not to overheat the battery, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our simplest electric motor... When an electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. An electromagnet acts like a normal magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.

Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the bare half of the protruding wire from the coil touches the bare holder. At this moment, a current begins to flow through the coil, a north pole appears at the coil, which is attracted to the south pole of the permanent magnet, and a south pole, which is repelled from the south pole of the permanent magnet.

We stripped the insulation off the top of the wire when the coil was vertical, so the poles of the electromagnet would point right and left. This means that the poles will move to align themselves with the up and down poles of the lying magnet. Therefore, the coil will turn towards the magnet. But at the same time, the insulated part of the coil wire will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will rotate by inertia further, again touches the non-insulated part of the holder and the process is repeated again and again until the current runs out in the batteries.

How can you make an electric motor turn faster?

One way is to add another magnet on top.

Bring the magnet while the coil is spinning, and one of two things happens: either the motor stops, or it starts spinning faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just do not forget to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump towards each other and destroy the fragile structure!

Another way is to place small glass beads on the spool axis, which will reduce the friction of the spool against the holders, and also better balance the electric motor.

There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.

How to make an electric motor in 15 minutes

• DIY or do it yourself

It is always interesting to observe changing phenomena, especially if you yourself participate in the creation of these phenomena. Now we will assemble the simplest (but really working) electric motor, consisting of a power source, a magnet and a small coil of wire, which we ourselves will make.

There is a secret that will make this set of objects become an electric motor; a secret that is both clever and amazingly simple. Here's what we need:

1.5V battery or rechargeable battery.

Holder with contacts for the battery.

Magnet.

1 meter of wire with enamel insulation (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

0.3 meters of bare wire (diameter 0.8-1 mm).

We'll start by winding the coil, the part of the electric motor that will rotate. To make the coil sufficiently flat and round, we wind it on a suitable cylindrical frame, for example, on an AA size battery.

Leaving 5 cm of wires free from each end, we wind 15-20 turns on a cylindrical frame.

Do not try to wind the coil very tightly and evenly, a small degree of freedom will help the coil to better maintain its shape.

Now carefully remove the coil from the frame, trying to maintain the resulting shape.

Then wrap the loose ends of the wire several times around the loops to maintain shape, making sure that the new bonding loops are exactly opposite each other.

The coil should look like this:


Now is the time for the secret, the feature that will make the motor work. This is a secret because it is a sophisticated and non-obvious technique and is very difficult to detect when the motor is running. Even people who know a lot about the operation of motors may be surprised at the ability of a motor to work until they discover this subtlety.

Keeping the spool upright, place one of the free ends of the spool on the edge of the table. Use a sharp knife to remove the top half of the insulation, leaving the bottom half in the enamel insulation.

Do the same for the other end of the coil, making sure that the bare ends of the wire are pointing up at the two free ends of the coil.

What is the meaning of this technique? The coil will rest on two holders made of bare wire. These holders will be attached to different ends of the battery so that electrical current can flow from one holder through the coil to the other holder. But this will only happen when the bare halves of the wire are lowered down, touching the holders.

Now you need to make a support for the coil. They are simply loops of wire that support the coil and allow it to spin. They are made of bare wire, since, in addition to supporting the coil, they must deliver electric current to it.

Just wrap each piece of bare wire around a small nail and you have the part of our motor you want.

The base of our first electric motor will be the battery holder. This will be a suitable base because with the battery installed it will be heavy enough to keep the motor from shaking.

Put the five pieces together as shown in the picture (without the magnet at first). Place a magnet on top of the battery and gently push the coil ...


If done correctly, the REEL WILL START SPINNING FAST! We hope that, as in our experiment, everything will work for you the first time.

If the motor still does not start, carefully check all electrical connections. Does the coil spin freely? Is the magnet close enough (if not enough, install additional magnets or trim the wire holders)?

When the motor starts up, the only thing you need to pay attention to is not to overheat the battery, since the current is large enough. Just remove the coil and the chain will be broken.
Let's find out exactly how our simplest electric motor works. When an electric current flows through the wire of any coil, the coil becomes an electromagnet. An electromagnet acts like a normal magnet. It has a north and south pole and can attract and repel other magnets.

Our coil becomes an electromagnet when the bare half of the protruding wire from the coil touches the bare holder. At this moment, a current begins to flow through the coil, a north pole appears at the coil, which is attracted to the south pole of the permanent magnet, and a south pole, which is repelled from the south pole of the permanent magnet.

We stripped the insulation off the top of the wire when the coil was vertical, so the poles of the electromagnet would point right and left. This means that the poles will move to align themselves with the up and down poles of the lying magnet. Therefore, the coil will turn towards the magnet. But at the same time, the insulated part of the coil wire will touch the holder, the current will be interrupted, and the coil will no longer be an electromagnet. It will rotate by inertia further, again touches the non-insulated part of the holder and the process is repeated again and again until the current runs out in the batteries.

How can you make an electric motor turn faster?

One way is to add another magnet on top.

Bring the magnet while the coil is spinning, and one of two things happens: either the motor stops, or it starts spinning faster. The choice of one of the two options will depend on which pole of the new magnet will be directed towards the coil. Just do not forget to hold the bottom magnet, otherwise the magnets will jump towards each other and destroy the fragile structure!

Another way is to place small glass beads on the spool axis, which will reduce the friction of the spool against the holders, and also better balance the electric motor.

There are many more ways to improve this simple design, but we have achieved the main goal - you have assembled and fully understood how the simplest electric motor works.

Today, electric vehicles are presented by marketers as the carrier of the most advanced technologies in the automotive industry. And many are convinced that an electric car can be either expensive, like the Nissan Leaf or Mitsubishi i-MiEV, or very expensive, like Tesla. However, members of the tight-knit community of DIY electric vehicles know that this is not the case! In the simplest man-made version, the "battery-powered machine" is much cheaper than its industrial counterparts and does not require innovative technologies and materials. Therefore, a lot of elementary electric vehicles drive alongside us on the roads under the guise of ordinary gasoline models - we just don't know about it!

"Electric car version 1.0" is a basic-level car, which can be made in six months in the garage by virtually any handy man who knows how to repair a car and has basic knowledge of electrical engineering. The purpose of this article, of course, is not to give the reader clear instructions for use, but to give, as it is fashionable to say today, a "roadmap" for understanding that an electric car is easy! Igor Korkhov, the administrator of the largest thematic forum electrotransport.ru, who successfully built completed designs of his own electric vehicles, told Koles about this. this moment driving a modernized Lada Ellada.

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Body

What is an entry-level electric car that is easy to build on a garage "slipway"? The body from the donor car with steering, suspension, transmission and brakes, a DC electric motor aggregated with a standard manual gearbox, a battery pack with a controller, an accelerator pedal from which the controller receives a signal and a number of auxiliary units that can even be added to the design immediately, and later - after the first test drives, for which the soul of a garage engineer is so impatiently awaiting ...

As a body donor, as a rule, they take a front-wheel drive car so as not to waste energy on friction in the universal joint crosspieces and hypoid transmission rear axle... They are trying to find a lighter car, ideally up to 600-700 kilograms, although this is not always possible - most cars are excessively heavy in terms of building an electric vehicle. At one time, Tavria was very popular among garage electric cars - the body is light and excellent "rolling" - on a flat road you could literally push your finger! But almost all of Tavria, alas, have already rotted ... Golfs of the first or second generation, Daihatsu Mira and similar small cars are popular. They try to increase "rolling" due to special tires - the so-called "green" ones: narrow and allowing a pressure of 2.7 or more atmospheres to eliminate losses due to rubber deformation.

Engine

I saw how, on a car with the engine removed, a powerful screwdriver was connected to the input shaft of the manual gearbox, the control of its power button was brought into the salon and in fact received an electric car in half an hour! Yes, curious, yes, driving no faster than five kilometers per hour, but, in fact, it demonstrates quite well the simplicity and efficiency of the "version 1.0" design! All this, of course, is from the field of "mechanics joking", but the principle, in general, remains.

Igor Korkhov

The most common engines for entry-level homemade products were and still are the DC-3.6 traction motors from the Bulgarian electric warehouse forklift trucks of the Balkankar EB-687 type. These are series excitation motors powered by direct current with a voltage of 80 volts and a power of 3.6 kilowatts. Such a motor looks like a cylindrical barrel, weighs 66 kilograms. This is far from the best motor in terms of mass and efficiency, but it is easily accessible and popular with novice electric vehicle designers. You can buy such an "engine" to the best of your luck - someone will get it for thanks, someone will find it for 5-10 thousand rubles. In principle, this cost is justified - the motor is not high-speed, but it has excellent torque, pulls up any hill even in third gear, is easy to install, unpretentious.

Transmission

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In "Variant 1.0" you will not find wheel motors and other progressive electromotive "nanotechnologies". It is done as simple as possible, and the easiest way is to fuse the electric motor with the transmission already existing on the donor car - a manual gearbox with a main gear and a differential, through the front-drive CV joints with hubs and front wheels.
- Actually, the basket and the clutch disc, its drive (hydraulic or cable), and the left pedal itself are removed - this is extra weight, and we no longer need them. - says Igor Yuryevich, - True, we will still switch speeds - but rarely and without disconnecting the shafts of the motor and the gearbox - just sticking the gears with the gearbox handle. The required gear is engaged without a clutch quite calmly both before starting the movement and on the move: you throw the gas, bring the gearshift knob, the synchronizers are triggered - and we go further.

We use the third gear for driving around the city, the fourth - along the suburban road, the second - along the gullies. The first is never used at all, the moment on the wheels is such that they just spin with a light touch of the accelerator!

To install an electric motor under the hood, you need two main "hand-made" parts: an adapter plate and an adapter sleeve, with the help of which the electric motor is connected to the "native" manual transmission of the car. The plate connects the electric motor and the gearbox, and the bushing connects the motor shaft and the input shaft of the gearbox.

The stove is easily made with your own hands from thick sheet steel or aluminum - it is enough to have middle-level locksmith skills, a grinder and a drill.

The adapter sleeve connecting the shafts of the electric motor and the gearbox is also easy to make with the help of Uncle Vasya the turner and welding - on the one hand, the sleeve must be aligned with the shaft of the electric motor, and on the other hand, a spline part cut from the clutch disc of the box with which we are we connect the electric motor.

Battery

The battery for an electric car - only lithium-iron-phosphate, there are no other options! Forget about starter lead-acid batteries, which seem attractive for a start, "just try it" right away and forever - they are categorically unusable, just money down the drain. Several charges and discharges - and the batteries will go to the collection point for non-ferrous metal! Traction lead-acid batteries also do not last long, because with their mass, the capacity will always be insufficient, which means an excessively large current consumption per battery. At such currents, traction lead does not hold either. So only "bras", although it is not cheap.

At one time, many passed through lead - including myself. Now there is no point in repeating such mistakes. My starter batteries began to die out after a couple of months, I barely managed to sell them for half the price until they lost their capacity. Then at one time I used sealed batteries from telecommunication systems (uninterruptible power supplies for cell towers) - enough for a season, internal resistance began to grow ... Therefore, as soon as the widely available lithium ferrum appeared, everyone switched to it. The best specific energy density, the ability to give and receive high currents, durability, frost resistance. But the prices are still high, and the battery is the most expensive part of an electric car - a DIYer needs to take this into account ...

Igor Korkhov

A simplified calculation of the parameters and cost of the battery looks like this: suppose we need to collect a 100-volt battery - quite a lot of motors are designed for this voltage. The voltage of one "lifter can" is 3.3 volts: this means that we need to connect 30 cans in series. But the second important parameter batteries - capacity. Since the "banks" are the same, the capacity of one = the capacity of the entire battery. "Jar" good quality costs about $ 1.5 per 1 amp-hour, and an entry-level 30 amp hour battery will provide a car weighing up to a ton of 25-30 kilometers of power reserve.

We consider:

30 amp hours x $ 1.5 = $ 45 per can
$ 45 x 30 cans = $ 1350 $ for the whole battery

In general, the battery is not budgetary, and this is only a capacity suitable for the first experiments - in an amicable way, it needs to be at least doubled ...

Electric vehicle batteries are often charged with semi-self-made chargers made on the basis of cheap decommissioned power supplies that saturated backup batteries at cellular base stations - where they work together with 48-volt lead batteries. You need two such blocks - they are connected in series, internal adjustment allows you to raise the voltage of each to 64 volts and charge the batteries for most common electric motors used by EV-DIYers.

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By the way, the standard 12-volt battery, as a rule, remains in its place - it is convenient to feed various regular consumers from it - a sound signal, windshield wipers, power windows, "music", lights, etc. Later, as one of the first upgrades, it can be replaced with a DC / DC converter of three hundred watts, making 12 volts out of 100.

Other nodes

Actually, in addition to the motor, transmission and battery in the simplest electric car, there are a number of units - both necessary and installed at will. A motor controller is, of course, absolutely essential. In the simplest version, it can be made independently on relatively inexpensive and widespread parts, and the throttle angle sensor from an injection VAZ will serve as a gas pedal sensor. You can buy a controller from domestic home-builders, order a factory-made controller from China, or order a used Curtis branded unit from eBay - the module will cost $ 250-300.

There are a lot of additional nodes that are not required for a test (or even in general!) Trip. For example, a stove from which a liquid radiator is thrown out and an electric heating element is installed instead. Or let's say Vacuum pump for the brake booster. Since there is no internal combustion engine on the machine, the intake manifold vacuum, which is necessary for the operation of the vacuum brake booster, also disappears. Therefore, many home-builders install electric auxiliary VUT pumps, borrowed from cars such as Volvo XC90, Ford Kuga, etc.

However, it all depends on the project - not everyone does even a brake upgrade on a light electric car, since the role of a “vacuum cleaner” is partly performed by regenerative braking by the engine, and many cars from the factory did not have a vacuum booster, in principle, braking quite well. Without it, for example, not only the notorious VAZ-"penny" was produced, but also Tavria, Oka in some years and so on.

Prices and money

A donor machine, an electric motor, a controller - all of this can be flexibly varied and here you can "cut" to the best of your cunning and desires. You can buy a donor car for 100-150 thousand in good condition for the body, you can buy it for 50 thousand - but with the need for tin, welding, paint brushes ... You can buy an electric motor from an elderly Bulgarian forklift, or you can buy a used or new American motor designed specifically for electric vehicles ... You can purchase an industrial motor traction controller, or you can solder it yourself, if you have the skills. The same goes for everything else except the battery. It will not be possible to “tailor” anything especially here: the prices for new lithium-ferrum banks are approximately the same everywhere, the question is in capacity. A good 80-100-volt battery for about a hundred kilometers will cost 4-5 thousand dollars in today's money. You can, of course, start with a low-capacity battery with the prospect of building up (after all, even a short first trip inspires and makes it clear that you are not working in vain!), But you need to understand that a small capacity needs to be increased as soon as possible, since its lack leads to an increase in the recoil current from each individual can up to dangerous shock values ​​that shorten their life ... As long as you mess with the purchase of the second half, the first will die ...

Articles / Practice

Preparing the car for a tourist trip: three important accessories

Three factors, without which a comfortable trip for a couple of days to nature, fishing / hunting, or to some festival or gathering is indispensable, are water supply, light and a stove. It seems to many that these questions are easy ...

24224 0 0 08.08.2016

So is it profitable to build an electric car? Even an experienced self-builder and in fact a guru of a garage EV-building Igor Korkhov believes that hobby comes first, and “cheating the system” can only be very conditional - it will border on self-deception ... The fact is that the final result cannot be judged purely by the cost of the traveled kilometer, as it seems to many, one has to take into account both comfort, and functionality, and the safety of the car, and just the feeling of what you own. Here, let's say, a new gasoline Lada Granta - it costs from 360 thousand rubles, which is approximately equal to $ 5,500. The most budgetary electric car based on some VW Golf of the early generations will cost the same for components - plus the time spent on thematic forums and the invested own labor. As a result, on one side of the scale - albeit a domestic one, but smelling of novelty and a problem-free car under warranty, and on the other side - an elderly and outwardly shabby "electric cam" in the stage of endless finishing work, without the possibility of refueling on the way, at first (or even forever) without air conditioning, brake booster and the like.

Or, say, the next level is Hyundai Solaris. New it costs from 600,000 rubles, which is about $ 9,200. The same amount will have to be spent if you build an electric car based on a more or less fresh body of a foreign car, which looks decent from the outside and has an unbroken interior, buying a good American electric motor for this body, a reliable proprietary Curtis controller and typing a capacious battery. However, at the exit - in general, almost the same as in the first case ... Solaris has maximum speed and dynamics in its trump cards, the ability to replenish the fuel supply everywhere, and not only in a personal garage, where there is an outlet, all the advantages of a new and a reliable car with a lot of functional amenities, guarantees and more. A home-made product, albeit more decent inside and out, remains a home-made product - a car with significant restrictions on the range and the possibility of refueling, an eternal designer, a simulator for hands and mind ...

conclusions

From the point of view of the application of hands and mind for a person who loves cars and technology, the construction of an electric car is certainly justified! This hobby, of course, is costly, but everything is learned in comparison - moreover, in comparison not with oligarchic extremes like collecting Faberge testicles, but with quite widespread and massive technical applied hobbies. Let's say a fishing lover has a mediocre inflatable boat with an outboard engine famous brand forces of some sort of ten will result in at least two-thirds of the simplest electric car ...

A good quadcopter with a camera costs no less. Against this background, the construction of an electric car does not stand out at all - such a normal man's fun ...

Equally attractive is the fact that the result is achievable for many, and not just for the elite - you do not need to be an "80th level engineer" to connect the electric motor with the gearbox, lay the power and control wiring and place it in the trunk batteries. In the simplest form of design, and with numerous tips from a responsive EV community on the Internet, work will be pleasant and almost certainly successful.

However, until effective batteries fell in price and inexpensive sets of traction motors and controllers became widespread, as happened with whales for electric bicycles, an electric garage-built car in terms of operating cost is unlikely to be a serious competitor to budget gasoline cars, and even more so to gasified cars ... to save money, invest in the installation of propane gas equipment- easier and more profitable ...

Photo courtesy of Bruce, an American home-builder, who carefully documented all the stages of building his electric car at home based on the 1985 Suzuki Mighty Boy pickup-hatchback.

Interested in the topic of building an electric car?