Profiled beams are made from coniferous wood. This building material is environmentally friendly. During the production process, the timber is processed on a four-sided planer-milling machine. As a result, its two sides get a thorn-groove profile, the other two sides become smooth. Using such building material allows for the construction of a bath from a profiled bar chamber drying without the cost of additional wall decoration. Drying the timber in a special chamber reduces its moisture content from natural 50-60% to a minimum value of 18-20%.

A list of some of the advantages of baths with walls made of chamber-drying timber

Saunas made of kiln-dried timber are characterized by a number of advantages when compared with buildings made of other materials obtained from wood:

• the use of environmentally friendly building materials eliminates the possibility of toxins appearing when the temperature rises;
• the shrinkage of a bathhouse made of a chamber-dried profiled bar after construction does not exceed, as a rule, 3%, which makes it possible to complete internal work within a month and a half after the installation of the log house, significantly reducing the time required for all work;
• a bath from a chamber-drying bar will last for more than a decade, since the bar is not subject to decay and bio-damage due to the low percentage of moisture;
• the weight of the log house is relatively small, which allows it to be installed on the most economical type of foundation - tape;
• the walls of the bath made of chamber-drying timber are water-resistant, have a low thermal conductivity, are reliable and durable.

How we build a bathhouse from a chamber-dried timber

We divide the whole process of building a bath into 4 stages:

1. design;
2. foundation device;
3. assembly and installation of a log house;
4. ceiling insulation and flooring.

To clarify the cost of building a bath from a chamber-drying bar, the customer can at any time call the phones indicated on the website, name the estimated dimensions of the bath and find out the approximate cost of construction. In addition, our consultant will also be able to answer other questions regarding pricing and the work process.

Bath ventilation is divided into general and preserving ventilation. We call preservative ventilation drying a bath after water procedures. If in the bathroom and shower the main difficulty is drying towels and floor mats, then in baths it is most difficult to dry wood, especially on floors and in crevices.
Drying of baths, bathrooms and showers is carried out by aerodynamic methods - dry ventilation air enters the area of ​​humidified materials, evaporating water. Water vapor is released into the air. Across exhaust ventilation humidified air is removed and fresh air is supplied. Thus, technological process drying includes several stages and is far from simple.

Let's make a reservation right away that if we consider the problem broadly, then we should talk not about drying, but about the normalization of wood. The fact is that in dry high-temperature saunas the wood sometimes does not get wet, but, on the contrary, gets overdried, and after the end of the bath procedure it is moistened again due to the equilibrium hygroscopicity. In steam rooms and wet baths wet wood must be dried, too, not to an absolutely dry state, but to a certain level of humidity. That is, conservation ventilation is not just wood drying, but drying, taking into account the specific bath process, the characteristics of wood, its possible morbidity and possible consequences overdrying (warping, cracking) and underdrying (decay).

Moistened - dry

For all its advantages, wood also has many disadvantages, which makes it a problematic material for baths. Fire hazard, low hygiene and the ability to quickly rot - these are the main features on

natural wood, which at one time put an end to the prospect of using wood in urban public baths hygienic purposes.

In individual baths, wood continues to be used in a periodic (episodic) mode with mandatory subsequent drying, despite the possible chemical treatment of wood.

Wet wood is susceptible to all three types of biological destruction - due to bacteria, fungi and insects, and dry only due to insects. If wood rot is slimy with unpleasant odor- this is most likely bacterial rot... If plaque, colors (stains of foreign color), mold with an earthy smell are formed on the wood, these are probably microscopic fungi (fungi, micromycetes). Bacteria and micromycetes are not so dangerous for individual country baths, which will stand for many years even with colors. But for representative and apartment baths, micromycetes are the number one scourge, because they spoil appearance finishes. But the most dangerous for baths are macromycetes - large, real mushrooms with characteristic fruit caps, living right on the wood (like mushrooms, tinder fungus, sponges). Many summer residents, with surprise noticing brown fan-shaped mushroom caps sticking out of the floor in their bathhouse, in best case they will only scrape them off and smear the place of growth with vitriol or chromopic, not realizing that these caps are only the fruit bodies of a house wood-destroying fungus. The mushroom itself is hidden in the floor, walls, foundation (both in a tree and in a brick) in the form of a system of branching threads (single GIF - cords up to 1 cm in diameter), forming a mycelium several meters in size, so that the development of the fungus can only be stopped antiseptic treatment large areas... The normal temperature for the development of house mushrooms is 8 - 37 ° С, the relative humidity of the wood is 25 - 70%. V optimal conditions the fungus destroys the bath in one season, forming brown fissured rot, which breaks up into large prismatic pieces that are easily ground into powder.

It is believed that the development of the house fungus is suspended when the relative humidity of the wood is about 18% and below. Considering the wood hygroscopicity curves from this point of view, several conclusions can be drawn. Firstly, to maintain the moisture content of wood at 18% and below at all temperatures of fungal development (5 -40 ° C), a relative humidity of no more than 80% is required. Otherwise, even completely dry (but not treated with water-repellent compounds) wood will moisten above this level by itself (without contact with room water) by absorbing moisture from the air. So in tropical countries there are more problems with timber than in the north. Secondly, considering the curves of wood hygroscopicity in other coordinates (Fig. 1), it can be noted that wood, arbitrarily moistened at a temperature of 30 ° C and an absolute air humidity above 0.03 kg / m3 (that is, at a calculated relative humidity air 100% and higher relative to the temperature of the wood), dries at a temperature of 40 ° C to a humidity of 11% (and only up to 11%!), and at a temperature of 80 ° C to a humidity of 2.5% (and only up to 2.5%! ). All this is extremely unusual: non-porous materials would dry out completely under these conditions. For marble, metal and plastic, only two states are possible: when there is water on them (and no matter how much) and when there is no water on them at all.

In this regard, let us recall how dry wood is moistened. If you splash water on wooden board, it is gradually absorbed into the depths of the wood: first into the intercellular spaces (vessels, pores between the fibers), then into dense (dried) cell cavities, then into the cell walls. All of these pores are capillaries with wettable walls. Due to the formation of concave menisci of water surfaces, the pressure saturated steam less above water inside wood than above water spilled over the surface. Therefore, not only water, moving along wetting surfaces, but also its vapors rush into the capillaries (intercellular and cellular), moisten (and then dry quickly). Water in them is called free, its content in wood can reach 200%. Small capillaries (in the cell walls) are moistened (and then dry out) slowly, the water in them is called bound (hygroscopic), its content in wood reaches up to 30% (it is shown in Fig. 1). Thus, a board that looks "dry" without water droplets can contain 100% or more moisture, and this moisture is extracted from the wood during drying in the form of water vapor and can humidify the air. This effect is used not only when drying a bath, it is also used to create a condensation climatic regime in a Russian steam bath, when due to the high relative humidity of the air near the ceiling (for example, when water is supplied to hot stones), the ceiling is first moistened (preferably a massive log). Then, in the periods between giving, a high absolute humidity is created at the ceiling - above 0.05 kg / m3. Metal ceiling under these conditions, it would not just "drip" without retaining moisture in itself, it could create only a quite definite relative humidity of the air at its surface, equal to 100%. A wooden ceiling (like any porous one), in principle, can create only a quite definite relative humidity of the air at its surface, and with a fixed humidity of wood (due to the massiveness of the walls, for example), the relative humidity of the air not only at the ceiling, but also in the room can be maintained also practically constant regardless of how the room temperature changes. The effect of stabilizing the relative air humidity in wooden residential buildings(in brick and plastered ones too) are associated in everyday life with the property of wood "to breathe", to take moisture from the air and release it into the air in the form of water vapor. So a plastic sauna and a wooden sauna even with the same steam generator give different climatic conditions. Indeed, let's imagine that the sauna is completely dry at a temperature of 20 ° C and at a normal relative humidity of 60% (that is, at an absolute air humidity of 0.01 kg / m3). In accordance with fig. 1, the relative humidity of wood under these conditions is 12%. Now, hypothetically, let us heat this sauna (without ventilation and without humidification) to a temperature of 70 ° C. The bold dashed horizontal arrow in Fig. 1 shows that the absolute humidity in the sauna jumps up to 0.14 kg / m3, just right to steam with a broom! Where did the water come from! The wood began to dry and humidified the air. By the way, it is the water vapor coming out of the wood that “pulls” the “smells of wood,” so appreciated in apartment saunas. This phenomenon serves as another additional reason for the need to ventilate even dry apartment saunas, so that they do not unexpectedly become steam rooms. And if the sauna is ventilated during heating fresh air the same absolute humidity of 0.01 kg / m3, then the air in the bath will be kept dry, and the moisture content of the wood in the bath will decrease and sooner or later will drop to 1% (see the vertical bold dashed arrow in Fig. 1), that is, as they say in everyday life, the boards "dry up". And then, after the end of the bath procedure, they will be moistened again due to the sorption of air moisture to a moisture content of 12%. In the language of meteorologists, "wood tries to keep the relative humidity of the air constant." Indeed, in the above wooden bath the wood "kept" the relative humidity in the bath at the level of 60%, which can be achieved in conditions of temperature rise only by humidifying the air with wood. There can be nothing like this in a plastic bath: when it is heated, the absolute humidity of the air remains constant, and the relative humidity drops. It is glass sheet metal and plastic are ideal materials for dry physiotherapy and room saunas. And if you use wood, then only thin, specially treated to prevent hygroscopic absorption of moisture from the air. The craze for decorative wood trim baths (not always justified) leads to the fact that even bath hygrometers are sometimes performed in wooden cases(!), "Keeping" the relative humidity inside themselves constant, regardless of the temperature and the true humidity in the bath. By the way, recall that the measuring thread of the hygrometer, located inside the case, stretches when moistened (like an ordinary woolen thread) and thereby shows how much it is moistened. And it is moistened hygroscopically (due to its porosity) according to the same laws as wood. That is, the thread is moistened and lengthened mainly only when the relative humidity of the air changes. This is the basis of the principle of operation of hygrometers with natural thread. By the way, wood fibers stretch and shrink only when the relative humidity of the air changes. In rural life, the simplest, but very accurate "hygrometers" in the form of a thin, peeled and dried bifurcated wooden branch are well known. A thick mustache (the main branch is about 1 cm thick) is cut 10 cm above and below the fork and vertically nailed to the wall (baths, houses, cellars). A thin mustache (shoot about 0.3 cm thick and 0.5 m long) is directed upwards parallel to the wall. In dry weather, a long, thin whisker of a branch slopes, moves away from a thick one ("bulges" with an increase acute angle forks), and if it rains, it approaches the thick one. If you have a certified industrial hygrometer, then this homemade hygrometer can be calibrated with marks on the wall opposite the location of the tip of the thin mustache at various relative humidity. The principle of operation of such a hygrometer is that during drying, the underlying wood fibers of the main branch are shortened and pull the shoot down (from the trunk of the main branch).

Thus, the processes of moistening and drying wood take place in the bathhouse not only on the floors due to compact water and are associated not only with bath procedures. If wood can be moistened with both compact water and water vapor, then it can be dried only by removing water vapor from it. The drying process takes place in several stages. First, water evaporates on the surface of the wood, then free water in the large capillaries of the intercellular and intracellular spaces, then water in the small capillaries of the cell walls. The latter, as we established above, determines the hygroscopic moisture content of wood, which exists and changes even in a dry, unheated bath. Therefore, the drying of the cell walls can actually be controlled in the greenhouse conditions of dry built-in saunas, although bound water, in principle, can support the processes of decay of wood, especially, as we noted, in warm and humid climatic conditions.

The step-by-step drying process is typical for other porous materials, including bricks, plaster and soils (earth). Drying them is also important for the bath, if they are part of it. In this regard, we recall the fundamental, although related only indirectly to the topic of the article, the question of the mechanical deformation of porous bodies during the primary removal of bound water from them. It is known that warping and cracking of freshly cut wood occurs during the drying process, mainly in the last final stage, when hygroscopic moisture is removed from the cell walls. If, during the initial drying, the board is nailed or clamped in a vice, then it will retain the shape given to it (for example, arcs), and the better, the better the wood is dried. Under the conditions of primary natural atmospheric drying at 20-30 ° C, wood is dried only to a moisture content of 10-15% (after 2-3 years of drying), and with high-temperature stone drying at 100-150 ° C (including in a bath ) can be dried to a moisture content of 1 - 2 96. With such a significant dehydration, especially under conditions high temperatures, irreversible changes take place in the cell walls, and the wood actually ceases to be wood and begins to show the properties of an inanimate material. Similarly, clay soaked in water, during drying and heat treatment, first loses its plasticity, then cracks, and then becomes a brick, which does not change its shape and properties in the future upon contact with water. also by immersion in a hot anhydrous heat carrier (paraffin, oil products).

The mechanism of primary drying of freshly cut wood differs in that the walls of its cells have not yet been destroyed, the vapor and water permeability of the membranes is low and the wood dries for a long time, deforming during the destruction of the integrity of the membranes of the cell walls (and they, in fact, are wood - a combination of cellulose, lignin and hemicellulose). In the course of subsequent dryings, the wood dries faster and already behaves like "lifeless", since the cell walls have already been torn. At the same time, dry wood as a porous material possesses specific features that distinguish it from other materials, in particular, the anisotropy of properties, secondary warpage, etc.

Drying dynamics

Water spilled on the surface of the wood evaporates in the same way as water poured into a bathtub or pool. Recall that there are two opposite modes of evaporation - kinetic and diffusion. In the kinetic mode, the fastest molecules, overcoming the energy barrier equal to the latent heat of evaporation (condensation) 539 cal / g, fly out from the surface of compact (liquid) water and are irrevocably removed. The kinetic regime is realized during evaporation in a vacuum. Due to the high speed of the primary act of vaporization (the escape of water molecules from the surface of compact water), which at bath temperatures amounts to thousands of kilograms of water per hour from 1 m2, the water is strongly cooled (since only slow molecules remain in it) until it turns into ice, which is used in freeze drying in industry. In the diffusion mode, the primary act of vaporization remains the same and is just as strongly dependent on temperature. But the escaping water molecules enter the air (a mixture of nitrogen and oxygen molecules) and, as a result of frequent collisions, only very slowly move away (diffuse) from the water surface, experiencing strong resistance from the air environment. As a result, the overwhelming number of emitted molecules again "flies" into the water (condenses). Thus, in the diffusion mode, tons of water turn into steam and immediately condense (which we do not feel in any way), and only a very small amount of water (kilograms) completely evaporates. It is this diffusion mode of evaporation that takes place in a bath: both when sweat evaporates from the human body, and when water evaporates from the shelf. It becomes clear that if the concentration of water vapor molecules everywhere in the bath is equal (including at the surface of the human body), then no evaporation processes are possible (homothermal regime). But at the same time, it becomes clear that if tons of water per hour evaporate and condense in the bath at the same time, then we can assume that this should manifest itself sometime. Indeed, if the air in the bath is dried, then the rate of evaporation of water will increase. If the surface of the water is blown with dried air, then the evaporation rate will increase even more, since the air stream removes those molecules of water vapor that previously condensed. For orientation, we point out that at a relative humidity of 5096, the rate of evaporation of water at a temperature of 30 ° C is approximately 0.1 kg / m2 / hour. When air moves at a speed of 1 m / s, the evaporation rate approximately doubles, however, it should be noted that the air speed in a room is always much higher than directly above the water surface, and all quantitative indicators are extremely indicative. Experimental pool formulas can be used for estimates. In any case, the characteristic rate of drying floors in baths is 0.1-1 mm / h (0.1-1 kg / m2 / h) increases with an increase in the floor temperature and with a decrease in air temperature (that is, with a decrease in the absolute humidity of the air). So, for example, in open pools at a constant water temperature, evaporation is maximal not at all during the day, but at night in cold air, as well as in winter. In the daytime, in hot weather, evaporation may stop, even condensation of water vapor from the air on the surface of the pool may be observed, just as water condenses on human skin in a condensation-type steam bath in a mode higher than homothermal. For any pool with a certain water temperature, any floor, wall and ceiling, each bath has its own "homo-thermal" curve that separates the modes of water evaporation and condensation of water vapor, summarizing the above processes of evaporation and condensation on the water surface. Let's call it conditionally condensation. In terms of condensation curves, drying looks like this. In fig. 2 shows the condensation curves for a floor with a temperature of 20 ° C (curve 1) and for a ceiling of a steam bath with a temperature of 40 ° C (curve 2). The modes below the curve correspond to the evaporation of water, the modes above the curve correspond to the condensation of water vapor on the surface of the given temperature. Thus, if the air in the bath has a temperature of 40 ° C and a relative humidity of 6096 (it does not matter whether the air in the bath is stationary, whether it circulates or enters outside in the form of ventilation), then in this mode (point 3) the ceiling is dried and the floor is moistened ... In other words, air with such parameters transfers water from the ceiling to the floor, but even if the ceiling were dry, the floor would still take moisture from the air, that is, dry it (in this case, to a relative humidity of 40%). The floor can be dried only if you reduce either the air temperature or its relative humidity, or better both, so that the air characteristics are below curve 1, for example, if the mode corresponding to point 4 is implemented. The fact of possible air movement (blowing the floor) does not change the quality picture, but only affects the rate of evaporation or condensation. By the way, it is this mechanism that works in case of catastrophic humidification of the subfields of a residential building, to which a bathhouse with leaking floors is attached. Warm wet air from drained to the ground hot water spreads over long distances and emits condensation on the cold sub-floors and foundations of the entire apartment building.

The main conclusion is that conservation ventilation is not just a change of air in a damp bath room. It is necessary to supply air with the lowest possible temperature and relative humidity, or rather the lowest possible absolute humidity. In addition, it is necessary to keep the surfaces to be dried as warm as possible, and the higher the absolute humidity of the air, the higher the temperature of the surface to be dried. This means that it is not the air that needs to be heated, but the floor of the bath, for example, with infrared radiation. And if, nevertheless, it is possible to warm only air, then it must be dried, as is done in washing and dishwashers... Note that the sometimes recommended methods of drying a bath with the release of hot humid air through the floor in the underground lead only to additional humidification of the cold (and therefore the most problematic) elements of the bath. Better to release hot, humid air through the upper vents, in which condensation is impossible. In fact, almost all baths use general ventilation for conservative drying of the interior.

With the complete evaporation of water from the surface of non-porous materials, drying can be considered complete. But when we are dealing with wood, it is also necessary to remove the internal water. If the wood is treated with water-repellent compounds, then the pore walls are not wetted with water, which means that the water vapor pressure in the pores is greater than on the wood surface. This leads to the "evaporation" of water from the pores on the surface of the wood in the form of droplets, which then evaporate again as described above.

Water filling pores with wetted walls, including untreated wood, evaporates in a diffusion mode, and the removal of steam is extremely difficult. Although wood contains 50 - 90% of voids, the tortuosity of the pores leads to the fact that the real path of removal of water molecules can be several times larger than the characteristic dimensions (thickness) of a wood product. In this case, possible air flows, even very small ones, can strongly influence the drying rate. "Permeability" of materials is characterized by a parameter called vapor permeability, equal, for example, for mineral wool 8 - 17, for pine along the grain -10, pine across the grain - 2, brick - 2, concrete - 1 in units of 10 "6 kg / m / sec / atm. Thus, with typical static pressure drops due to wind 104 atm. real values ​​of drying rates for porous materials 10 cm thick at 20 ° C are less than 1 g / m2 / day for vapor-insulating materials (hydraulic concrete, asbestos cement, extruded polystyrene foam), 1-20 g / m2 / day for vapor-permeable materials (wood , brick, plaster), more than 20 g / m2 / day for vapor-permeable materials (mineral wool), more than 1000 g / m2 per day for superdiffusion materials (perforated membranes). air in the same way as in the case of water evaporation from the surface.The required ventilation air flow is selected experimentally depending on the degree of humidification and the season, but the temperature of their bath elements. The analysis of wood drying issues could be continued and the most reasonable solutions for conservation ventilation could be considered. But there is no point in cheating: centuries of operating experience wooden baths shows that no matter how sushi the wooden floors are, there is still no guarantee of the quality of drying, they still rot. Indeed, if 1 m2 of a wooden floor conditionally absorbs 1 kg of water, then drying it at a rate of 20 g / m2 will last 50 days. Therefore, wherever possible (and not only in baths), wood is covered with roofs, awnings, but in this case it is also capable of moistening. condensation from the air (for example, under iron roofs) and rot (brown, darken, crumble), especially in poorly ventilated places. The presence of vents, that is, holes and slots larger than 3-5 mm, is an indispensable condition for the preservation of unheated zones wooden structures... On the contrary, airs with a size of less than 1-3 mm are stagnant, poorly ventilated zones, moisture evaporates from them slowly, which creates conditions for rapid decay, especially when in contact with vapor-proof materials, and even more so with constantly humidified ones. The question is not about how to dry wood qualitatively, but about how to remove it from the bath altogether or reduce its wetting and reduce the rate of decay. This is typical not only for wood, but also for all porous mineral materials (brick, foam concrete, gypsum) and rusting steel. After all, no one makes floors from foam concrete and then makes incredible efforts to dry it. So rusting steel is painted, and not trying to dry quickly after each rain. V modern baths all wood that may come into contact with water must be impregnated with water-repellent compounds (preferably under pressure, as is done in the case of railway sleepers and ship masts), and protected from above with waterproof paintwork, as well as shelters, not to mention antiseptic and fire protection treatment. The wood in the bath is a problematic material, and the widespread opinion that the bath is good only because it is wooden and there should not be any "chemistry" in it is absolutely groundless. Of course, in the conditions of a built-in amusing sauna, operated in the greenhouse environment of an apartment corridor, untreated wood is permissible even on the floors, but even there only in the form of a removable, dried grate.

STEAM INSULATION OF CEILINGS

Methodically more difficult is the question of ventilation of wood in the upper parts of the walls and ceiling. The task of conservation ventilation here is to supply dry air to humidified areas to dry them. Therefore, in each specific case, it is necessary to clarify what and how can be humidified, and only then decide where and how to supply the ventilation air.

The ceiling (or rather, the ceiling slab) can be moistened by precipitation in case of emergency roof leaks and steam condensation. Previously, humidification was predominant due to trivial leaks, since until the 19th century in cities and until the 20th century, there were no bath roofs in the villages, except for wooden (boards, shingles), straw and Kamyshevs. Log walls and ceilings in the event of a roof malfunction could absorb hundreds of liters of water in the rain. Therefore, there was no need to talk about any possibility of their periodic drying after constant leaks, although wooden roof worked precisely in this mode of constant moistening and drying (as a result of which the wooden roof was made thinner so that it got less wet). The task was simple: to prevent leaks, but if they happened by chance, then the walls and ceiling had to be dried sooner or later, but be sure to dry them out. This was achieved by constant ventilation of the attic space, by organizing air vents, gaps and cracks in log and plank structures wherever possible, that is, the same techniques were used as in the natural drying of firewood in woodpieces, but, of course, while maintaining the insulating ability of the walls and ceiling.

Currently, individual developers do not take leaks seriously, relying on the reliability of steel and slate roofs, although the question remains serious, and the consequences are the most dangerous. So what happened, as a result of which everyone around began to talk about the indispensable need to vapor barrier the walls and ceilings of the bath as the most important thing? Indeed, for centuries earlier, in black logs, and then in white steam baths, they did not know about any vapor barrier, and steam humidification is so insignificant in comparison with leaks that they cannot create a dangerous moisture level of wood above 18 percent for a long time (especially in dry built-in saunas ).

Immediately, we note that the question of the vapor protection of wood and heaters first arose in baths in connection with the appearance in everyday life of soft waterproofing roofing materials(used, moreover, often not according to direct appointment), and dangerous levels of wood moisture acquired an exclusively local long-term character. However, before moving on to this question, consider general features moistening wood with condensing steam.

Usually in the literature, the humidification process is described briefly and simplistically: moist air is filtered through porous wood from the inside to the outside, and where the temperature of the wood decreases to the dew point of humid bath air of 40 ° C, local condensation of steam occurs and the wood is moistened only at this point. In fact, the process is more complicated. Firstly, wood is a wettable porous material; therefore, the condensate released is absorbed by the wood and is distributed along the wetting pore walls over a large volume of wood (blotting effect). By the way, then l<е самое происходит и в других смачивающихся пористых материалах: кирпичных, гипсовых, пенобетонных. Во-вторых, древесина является непросто смачивающимся пористым материалом, она имеет и мелкопористую составляющую, обуславливающую гигроскопичность материала (способность впитывать пары воды из воздуха). Для таких материалов характерно отсутствие четкой точки конденсации. На рисунке 3 изображена еще раз перестроенная в иных координатах кривая равновесной гигроскопичности древесины в зависимости от температуры. Это фактически график влажности древесины по срезу стены бани, имеющей температуру внутренней поверхности стены - 100°С (справа) и температуру наружной поверхности стены - 0°С (слева), при условии движения влажного воздуха изнутри наружу (справа налево). Мы видим, что при влажности воздуха, например, 0,05 кг/м3 (точка росы 40°С) равновесная влажность древесины на внутренней стороне стены равна 2 процента, затем по мере углубления в стену влажность древесины плавно, но быстро повышается и по мере приближения к точке росы 40°С резко возрастает до бесконечности. Это означает начало конденсации в крупных порах, но вся вода из воздуха в этой точке росы отнюдь не выделяется. Несколько осушившись, воздух продолжает перемещаться влево, непрерывно и постепенно отдавая воду уже при новых пониженных точках росы (например при влажности 0,017 кг/м3. Таким образом, увлажняется довольно протяженная зона, причем находящаяся у внешней стороны стены, которая впоследствии высыхает с выделением водяных паров наружу, но которая отнюдь не прогревается горячим воздухом при сушке интерьера бани. Так что очень большое значение имеет не столько температура воздуха в бане при ее сушке, сколько сухость этого воздуха, а также направление движения воздуха, фильтрующегося через стенку.

If the wall material is not fine-pored (for example, like mineral wool, which practically does not have capillaries) or if the material is treated inside with a water-repellent agent and is not wetted, the wood moisture curve is converted into a vertical dotted line at a dew point of 40 ° C, that is, at temperatures above dew point such a non-hygroscopic material does not absorb moisture from the air at all, and at temperatures equal to the dew point and below, constant condensation of moisture from the air occurs in the same way as described above. However, in the case of non-wetting of the inner surfaces of the porous material, the released condensate cannot be distributed over large volumes of walls (that is, it cannot be absorbed) and inevitably accumulates in separate zones, including forming droplets. When using mineral wool, drops of condensate flow in streams onto the lower elements of building structures, for example, on wooden beams, logs, crowns, greatly moistening them. In any case, in vapor-permeable (air-permeable) walls, it is advisable to make ventilation ducts (air vents) in areas near the dew point, as well as near load-bearing wooden elements. In particular, a good solution is to upholster the log house with planks (boards, clapboard, siding) inside and outside so that the gap between the boards and logs plays the role of steam exhaust ducts (ventilating facade).

Needless to say, there has always been a desire to keep water out of the walls at all.

So, in particular, in the stone (brick) city baths, the walls remained moist for years, despite the ventilation. Therefore, the inner surfaces of the walls, wherever possible, were protected with ceramic tiles, paintwork, natural stone. Of great importance was the introduction into everyday life of cheap soft roll waterproofing vapor-proof materials, including roofing materials (first, roofing felt based on wood or coal tar, then roofing felt and glassine based on bitumen-rubber mastics, synthetic polymer films and metal sheet foil). They began to be widely used in individual rural baths, first for their intended purpose - as roofing, and then to protect the outer sides of ceilings and walls from rain and wind, especially frame ones, insulated with non-waterproof materials (moss, paper, shavings, fiber boards, arbolite, cross-section straw moistened with glass wool). It is quite natural to want to cover, for example, a layer of shavings lying on top of the ceiling with something impervious or to upholster the plank walls of the bathhouse outside with roofing material to protect it from wind and rain. As a result of this, the shavings, which were previously moistened only with rare leaks, and when moistened under the action of steam penetrating from the bath, immediately dried out, under a layer of roofing material, they lost the ability to dry out after any moistening. More precisely, the shavings under the roofing felt can dry only when the moisture is removed back to the bath, which is very difficult. Therefore, between the shavings and the roofing material, it is necessary to make a ventilated gap (air) or make punctures in the roofing material for ventilation. Instead of roofing material, special roll materials, called windproof, were developed for these purposes. They do not allow compact water (raindrops) to pass through due to non-wetting and at the same time slightly allow air with water vapor due to porosity or perforation, but protect against wind gusts. It should be noted that gusts of wind create pressure drops of up to 10 "atm., Exceeding the pressure drops due to air heating in the bath 10 5 atm., Therefore, the wind pressure certainly plays the main role for drying the walls. It is these pressures that are saved by windproof materials, although air The fact is that the gas-dynamic resistance of the windproof material is much less than the gas-dynamic resistance of the protected wall of logs. Therefore, the logs practically do not "feel" the windproof material. At the same time, if the wall is not made of logs, but from an easily blown insulation , then here wind protection plays a decisive role, limiting the speed of the air flow through the wall. The simplest windproof is the traditional upholstery of the walls with clapboard (boards), so that the upholstery can play not only a purely decorative and hygienic role.

At the same time, windproof materials cannot completely solve the problem of humidification. Indeed, having covered the shavings on the ceiling with a windproof material, we will only be sure that an accidental roof leak will not moisten the shavings, and if it nevertheless gets wet (in any way), it will dry up sooner or later. But if the temperature of the wind protection layer is below the dew point, then moisture will condense on this layer, which in a liquid state cannot pass through the wind protection. Since moisture enters the windproof material in the form of vapor in the air flow from the inside to the outside, it is advisable to protect the ceiling from the inside with a vapor-insulating layer (airtight film). Such a sandwich-type structure with three layers (wind protection - insulation - vapor barrier) is the basis of modern enclosing structures. A general technical requirement is to install vapor barriers in areas with temperatures above the dew point. If the vapor barrier is made in the form of a wall cladding (plastic, steel, ceramic), then questions about its installation usually do not arise. But what if the vapor-proof film is placed inside the walls? For example, is it necessary to make a gap between aluminum foil and decorative clapboard? The answer is simple: if there can be compact water there, then a ventilated gap is necessary. For example, it is very difficult to make a gap on the ceiling. And if you open the ceiling of a steam bath after several years of operation, you will see that where there was no water (in the center of the ceiling), the back (top) side of the lining is absolutely fresh. And closer to the walls, where there could be water, there are dark spots of damaged wood.

The vapor barrier prevents steam from entering the wall, but at the same time stops the through-blowing of the walls and, thereby, makes it difficult to dry them when the roof leaks. Therefore, having prevented the penetration of steam, it is still desirable to restore the possibility of blowing through the wall by organizing air vents along the outer, and better, on the inner side of the vapor barrier, although the general ventilation of the room can assume the role of preserving ventilation on the inner side. In this case, the supply and exhaust openings of the air vents should go out into the street or rooms adjacent to the bathhouse (dressing room, vestibule). To assess the required dimensions of the airflow, consider a log bath with a volume of 10 m3 and an area of ​​enclosing structures of 25 m2. Let us take the degree of emergency humidification equal to 20 kg of water. Based on the characteristic vapor permeability of log walls at the level of 20 g / m2-day, the duration of natural drying in diffusion mode at wall temperatures of 10 - 20 ° C will not exceed 40 days (the value is quite large). In the presence of a vapor barrier of logs, such a duration of wall drying can be achieved at a wall ventilation rate of 1 m3 / hour, which is significantly lower than the ventilation rates of the bath rooms - 10 m3 / hour or more. This speed can be provided by the supply and exhaust openings of the air vents between the logs and the vapor barrier, the total cross-sectional area of ​​10-50 cm2, that is, in fact, slots (along the entire perimeter of the bath), less than 1 mm wide, which is ensured by inaccuracies in the mechanical processing of wood and assembly of structures ...

In log walls, wood plays the role of both windproof, heat-insulating, and load-bearing material. The modern construction design, including multi-storey buildings, implies the development of insulating materials for narrowly specialized functions and only sometimes combined functions. So, for example, waterproofing, windproof, vapor barrier, thermal insulation materials are, as a rule, completely different materials. At the same time, specialized film (roll) and tubular (cord) moisture-removing materials that can be laid inside the walls and which, playing the role of air vents, could remove moisture from the most difficult-to-reach places in any form (in the form of compact water or in the form of steam). It is these drainage materials that, apparently, will become in the future the basis of progressive solutions for the preservative ventilation of walls. Indeed, how to dry (or keep dry) massive brick walls that have been damp for years, the walls of city public baths, laundries, swimming pools? Neither elevated bath temperatures nor maintaining a relative humidity of 40-60 percent in laundries and swimming pools can completely ensure the dryness of walls, even those protected by ceramic tiles. Recently, hollow building materials (slotted bricks and concrete blocks with cavities, foam materials) have begun to be widely used, but these voids in the walls must somehow be connected to each other and closed to centralized supply and exhaust devices that regulate the speed of conservation ventilation within the required limits. This role will be assumed by new ventilation materials, primarily in ventilated facades and roofs.

One way or another, using ultra-modern or traditional materials and structures, it is necessary to provide air vents (ventilation ducts) in all places of walls and ceilings where compact water can appear. The transverse size of the vents (slots - 1 mm or holes with a diameter of 3-10 mm) is not so important, the main thing is that the vents cover all problematic parts of the walls (especially supporting structures) and are ventilated exclusively with outside air under the influence of wind back pressure. With a large size of air vents, it is advisable to close the ventilation ducts to local supply and exhaust openings, the flow sections of which can be adjusted if necessary. It is not advisable to combine the supply and exhaust ventilation of the bath room with the wall ventilation system due to the possible increased humidification of the walls with humid bath air.

Owners of country houses sooner or later think about building a bath. After all, the bathhouse is an excellent place for recreation. There you can easily cleanse your body and soul, have fun with friends and family, get a charge of positive emotions and a healing effect.

The efficiency, aesthetics and durability of a building directly depend on the building materials. The bathhouse is built from wood, brick, blocks, etc. Consider the demanded options for building materials separately.

Wooden bath

The traditional and most rational construction option. Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly material that will enhance the healing effect of bath procedures. The pleasant forest scent and attractive appearance will create a cozy and welcoming atmosphere.

Characteristics of wooden building materials:

• Environmentally friendly materials do not emit harmful toxic substances;
• The tree is easy to install. Installation of a wooden frame will take 1-2 weeks;
• Keeps warm for a long time;
• With proper care, the bath will last 70-80 years;
• Aesthetically attractive appearance;
• Light weight does not require expensive deep foundations, which reduces construction costs;
• It does not require external and serious interior decoration, which saves a large part of the budget. After all, finishing makes up 50-70% of the cost of building a building;
• Ease of processing - wood can be easily varnished and painted in any color;
• Low material cost due to the availability of raw materials.

For a wooden bath, choose a log or a bar. Both of these materials have the above characteristics, but there are differences between them. First of all, they relate to appearance and form.

Lovers of Russian style and space will appreciate the rounded log. The material of the correct cylindrical shape will harmoniously fit into the surroundings and create an exquisite appearance of the building.

Glued or profiled timber is characterized by a square shape, which will create a European practical style.

The choice of a bar or log is a matter of taste. However, keep in mind that building a log bath will be cheaper. After all, the timber requires additional costs for interior decoration in order to avoid the appearance of cracks and cracks.

The brick is distinguished by high thermal conductivity. Therefore, reinforced wall insulation is required. After all, long-term preservation of heat in the room is the main thing for a bath. In addition, laying brick walls is physically demanding and time-consuming.

Characteristics of brick building materials:

• Durability and strength of the material;
• Requires a deep and expensive foundation, which increases the cost of construction;
• Heavy and labor intensive installation;
• Requires serious interior decoration and reinforced thermal insulation gaskets due to high thermal conductivity;
• The material heats up longer;
• Easily absorbs and permeates moisture;
• Resistant to fire.

Thus, brick construction is not the best option. It will take a long time and take a lot of effort. In addition, such a bath requires a serious foundation and careful finishing.

Bath made of foam concrete blocks

Foam concrete is made in the form of blocks. The material is superior to brick in terms of thermal insulation quality and saves foundation costs. However, the microclimate in such a bath will be completely different than in a wooden one.

Characteristics of foam concrete:

• A standard wall foam block replaces 13 sand-lime bricks;
• Ease of installation - it is easy to install the foam block by yourself without professional training;
• Resistance to dampness;
• Difficulty installing ventilation and vapor barrier.

Foam blocks are more suitable for building a bath than bricks. However, the health-improving effect in such a room is significantly reduced than in a natural bath. At the same time, foam concrete makes it difficult to carry out vapor barrier and ventilation.

Frame structure - walls in the form of a lattice from a bar of various sections. The cells of the frame are filled with heat-insulating materials and sheathed outside and inside with boards, clapboard or imitation of a bar.

Frame technology characteristics:

• Ease and speed of construction;
• Good thermal insulation;
• The light weight of the structure does not require a deep expensive foundation;
• Cheapness of materials and construction;
• Structural weakness.

A frame bath will not require large expenses. However, a fragile structure will last much less than a bath made of wood, brick or block.

What material is better for building a bath

Regardless of the choice of material, wood will have to be used in any case. For cladding walls and ceilings, you will need a wooden lining, for laying a shelf - boards. Internal partitions, doors and window frames, sunbeds and shelves, cooperage products - all this is made of wood. Should you spoil the atmosphere with artificial materials?

A solid wooden bath will last a long time and create a unique atmosphere. The tree perfectly retains heat and has a beneficial effect on the human condition. In such a room it will be easy to breathe and it will be pleasant to be.

The MariSrub company offers dozens of turnkey log bath projects. In the catalog you will find projects with an attic, a terrace, a recreation room. For you - baths of various sizes and layouts. We will carry out an individual project, taking into account the characteristics of the land plot and the wishes of the client.

From the point of view of a civil engineer, an object with a special thermal and humidity regime... Therefore, in comparison with conventional "dry" buildings, the requirements for materials are increased here. Materials for construction are selected according to their performance characteristics. It:

• thermal conductivity- it is largely responsible for the heating rate;
• strength- not the main criterion for a one-story building, but it must also withstand a solid layer of March snow, and this is several tons;
• durability- largely depends on the first two qualities, however, such an object should be enough for several decades.
• density and porosity b. In many ways, these are close concepts. Since it experiences a powerful steam and heat "attack" at least once a week, its walls should be vapor permeable.

can build from wood, brick, various types of cellular blocks (foam concrete and gas silicate). And with the advent of modern high-quality heat, steam and waterproofing materials, baths began to be erected on a mixed, so-called frame technology.

In addition, the choice of the applied technology is influenced by the traditions of the "bathing business" of a particular region, and simply the availability of certain building materials. So, in Karelia it would never occur to anyone to "cut down" from anything other than wood, and in the steppe regions of the Russian Federation they will prefer high-quality bricks. Let's start the review with him.

Brick version of the bath

First of all, let's clarify that for construction you can use only red fired ceramic bricks... White silicate easily absorbs moisture and is not recommended for "pair procedures". And although no one doubts its strength and durability, it will take a long time to warm up such a structure.

The main disadvantage of a brick bath- large heat losses due to high thermal conductivity. To reduce it and at the same time create a relaxing heat and humidity atmosphere, the walls should be lined from the inside. reflective vapor barrier(for example, one-sided foil foamed foam), and additionally upholstery on top of it.

The most important and indisputable plus bricks - high fire safety. Agree that for a building that is heated, this is an important factor.

Block variant

You can often find cinder block baths(not to be confused with cellular blocks!), which have good thermal performance. However, slags themselves are concentrators of heavy metals, causing direct harm to human health. In general, cinder blocks should be considered only as a forced stage in the development of the building materials industry, which in the 50s became a response to a sharp shortage of quality. Now the time is different, and it is unacceptable to use such blocks for the construction of living quarters and baths.

Replaced by vibropressed blocks made from concrete mix. An excellent building material in terms of strength and ease of installation, but it has one drawback - weak thermal protection, which requires additional. Therefore, the next step in the "block" direction was the use of honeycomb blocks, which have increased thermal resistance.

Cellular blocks there are foam concrete and aerated concrete. Moreover, the latter are much better than the former. Their Benefits - durability and non-flammability... But the walls of them should also be revetted from the inside with the same materials as brick ones. Of course, such blocks do not burn and do not support the fire.

Bath frame

Frame technology, which has occupied a significant segment in cottage construction, is trying to penetrate the bath "market". The essence of the frame is a well-thought-out and conscientiously laid in a wall structure "pie" from layers of vapor barrier and waterproofing (if listed in the direction from the inside of the house to the outside). Outside and inside, such a wall should be lined with decorative panels.

The heat engineering highlight of the technology is that the material must be kept dry... Otherwise, it completely loses its insulating properties. And if in an ordinary living room a vapor barrier successfully copes with such a task, then in conditions of regular heat and humidity "attacks" it will not be easy for him to resist them for a long time. Somewhere yes there is a crack, hot wet steam will penetrate into the body of mineral wool (100-150 mm thick) and disable the thermal insulation. Therefore, the modern technology of the "frame" has not yet found wide application in the bathing business.

Wood is different

In Russia, it is customary to build from wood - the most environmentally friendly material. Due to the ability of wood to pass air well, rooms from it independently regulate humidity. Wood has little thermal conductivity and retains heat for a long time, which is especially important in.

However, there are stains in the sun, and wood has imperfections. Wood as a natural natural product, rotting... Therefore, wooden ones are less durable compared to the same brick ones, for example. The main "eaters" of wood are constant rains, aggressive insects and, unfortunately,. However, applied science has already invented its own "antidotes" against all these troubles. Some special chemical compounds will protect against spider bugs, and others will protect against fire.

Important: do not follow the lead of aggressive advertising and hope that one universal composition will protect you from everything in the world. According to experts in the field of household chemicals, you should not use formulations with a catchy name like "all in one". For fire protection, purchase one special solution, and against bugs, another.

What types of wood should I prefer?

Aerobatics in the bathing business is considered dry swamp spruce... But is there a lot of it and where to find it?

Traditionally used dry and... Different regions of our vast homeland have their own preferences based on the prevailing type of local wood. So, for example, in the Primorsky Territory, baths are made from or from... Yes, they put the log so that its northern side, which is more dense by definition, is outside. The trick is not great, but you also need to take it into account.

One more detail - presence of resin in rocks... On the one hand, it favors the bath process. But not everyone will be pleased to feel it literally on oneself. In order to eliminate resin from the bath space once and for all, experts advise heat thoroughly for at least a day... This will completely evaporate the resin from all sinuses.

Also used for cladding indoors board: it contains no resin initially.

Choice of design

Having decided on the types of wood, we turn to the structures. Here can be used either traditional or planed.

If we talk about preferences, then the image still lives in the minds of our people

Talking about the health benefits of a bath is a stupid business. And so each of our compatriots knows perfectly well that regular trips to the bathhouse allow you to remove toxins and salts from the body, stimulate metabolism, increase immunity and simply improve well-being.

Interesting interior of the bath

But if you want the bath to really give you maximum pleasure, it must be built according to all the rules. The most important of these is the correct choice of building material. So what is the best way to build a bathhouse? It is worth giving the most detailed and detailed answer to this question.

The modern market for construction products is quite rich: wood, reinforced concrete, frame construction, and so on. However, not all of this assortment is suitable if you want to build a bathhouse. Moreover, most of the materials listed above are completely unsuitable for construction.

The only material that can be called a really good choice is wood. In this case, you can use wood of different species: some are better for building a bath, while others are slightly worse.

An example of a bath made of wood

But in any case, it is worth changing the tree to some other material only as a last resort. For example, if a log or timber is too expensive or difficult to obtain material in your area. Then you can build a bath from expanded clay concrete blocks, bricks or foam blocks, but the steam room itself will definitely need to be sheathed with wooden boards. And it is worth taking such a step only if there is no alternative to such construction, and you really want to get a bath.

Fortunately, in most regions of our country, wood is not only affordable, but also a very cheap building material, therefore it is best.

Large volumes of harvesting together with a huge stock of knowledge on the correct preparation of wood make the construction of baths as easy as possible.

You can buy a ready-made kit for building a bath, order the construction of a turnkey bath, and if you have certain skills, build a bath with your own hands by purchasing the required amount of prepared timber or timber.

But still, before starting construction, it is worth finding out which tree is best to build a bath from. In general, when building, you can use a variety of types of wood, but still some are much better suited than others. And it's worth knowing about it in order to make the right choice.

We build from softwood

Today it is coniferous wood that is most often used in the construction of baths. There are many reasons for this. Firstly, thanks to natural resin impregnation, these types of wood are less susceptible to decay, which is very important for a bath: high humidity and temperature can have the most negative effect on the material.

Secondly, in the steam room, decorated with coniferous wood, there is always a special aroma that will appeal to any connoisseur of the bath. Finally, some coniferous logs are the cheapest, and therefore the most affordable, which remains one of the most important factors when choosing a building material.

So, what kind of conifers can serve as a source of wood for the construction of a bath? There are several of them:

1. Spruce. One of the most common and popular building materials. The low weight combined with the softness of the wood makes the processing as easy as possible. This has a positive effect on the cost of building material: almost everyone, if they wish, can save up the required amount to build their own spruce bath. It is also important that for many years of operation the spruce retains its original golden-white color. Alas, this option has one drawback - a high resin content. Of course, this gives a definite advantage: the wood practically does not rot even after prolonged and intensive use. However, at high temperatures, resin is released from the pores of the wood, which can cause serious problems when visiting a bath. Therefore, during the construction of a spruce bath, experts recommend to carry out internal cladding using wood of other species.

   Spruce wood example

   Even when working in difficult conditions (high humidity), the wood is practically not susceptible to the appearance of mold or mildew. This is due to the fact that it contains a natural antiseptic. Thanks to him, the bathhouse, during the construction of which larch was used, has a tonic and curative effect. A regular visit to the bath can prevent the onset and development of diseases of the cardiovascular system. The high hardness and high weight make the processing of larch an extremely difficult process, which affects the final cost of the building material. A larch bath will cost you about 2 times more than a bath made of spruce, pine and other cheap wood species. Well, on the other hand, you can be sure that this bath will serve you, and your children, and your grandchildren.

How to build a sauna professionally and competently.