Rules for plastering slopes of door and window openings. How to plaster window slopes? Plastering of slopes of windows and doors

Not all companies specializing in the installation of plastic windows include the installation of slopes in their list of services. Very often, for these purposes, people additionally seek help from masters, who sometimes require this work a fairly high fee.

However, with the right tools and some skills construction works with the installation of slopes it is quite possible to cope with your own hands. One of effective methods making slopes attractive appearance is their plastering. Therefore, further it will be considered how to plaster window slopes with your own hands.

Tools and materials for work

If you decide to replace old windows with more modern designs, their installation should be completed with a beautiful frame of the slopes. To do this, you can use not only plastering technology, the sections of walls adjacent to the window can also be finished with drywall, siding or special panels that come with the window.

However, plaster allows you to decorate the room to your liking, without reference to the color and texture of plastic or wooden panels. Plastering technology allows you to use different geometries, with which you can visually enlarge the boundaries of the room, make it lighter and more comfortable.

Before starting work, you need to take care of the availability of some tools and materials. To make it yourself, you need to cook:

Figure 1. The principle of working with bevel: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel during plastering; 5 - box; 6 - small.

• drill with a special nozzle for mixing the solution;
• trowel for applying the solution;
• a set of spatulas;
• a square with a movable rail for measuring the angle of the bevel;
• level and plumb;
• rule;
• Malka;
• hammer;
• grater;
• container for mixing the solution;
• plaster;
• gypsum mixture;
• mounting tape;
• mounting foam;
• edged boards;
• nails.

Before applying the solution, it is necessary to make special device- small. It is a wooden lath about 35 mm wide and 20-25 mm thick. At the same time, the length this device must be equal to the width of the slope along the hypotenuse of the triangle, which is formed by the window opening and the box.

A rectangular cut is made on one side of the bevel. With one end with a cutout, the bevel is installed on the box, and with the other - on a rail or a rule attached to the outer edge of the slope. Figure 1 shows the principle of working with a bevel, where: 1 - wall; 2 - solution; 3 - rail; 4 - the position of the bevel during plastering; 5 - box; 6 - small.

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Preparatory work

The most important preparatory procedure before making slopes is quality installation windows. If the window structure is set even with a slight deviation from a strictly vertical position, then no slope will be able to correct such a defect. In this case, the installation of the window will have to be carried out again, that is, it will be necessary to remove the double-glazed window and dismantle the window frame.

After installing the window, you need to install the window sill. In this case, it is necessary to adhere to its strict horizontality. To check the horizontalness of the window sill, you can pour a little plain water and see if it spreads in any direction.

Before making slopes, you need to inspect the gaps between window frame and wall, as well as check the tightness of all seams. To seal the cracks, you can use mounting foam. After it hardens, you need to cut off all the excess. All work should be carried out very carefully, because it is much easier to get a flat surface with small indentations as a result than to build up a slope with plaster to the level of bumps formed with a poor cut of the mounting foam.

Preparatory work also includes protection window frame. On the installed PVC windows usually remain protective films with markings. If the entire surface of the frame is covered with it, then nothing more needs to be done to protect it. Otherwise, you will need to process the missing sections of the frame with mounting tape. Additionally, it is recommended to secure the window sill. To do this, you can use a dense polyethylene film or plain paper that can be attached to the windowsill with tape.

After that, it is necessary to remove the old layer of plaster. To facilitate this task, you can use a perforator or a regular chisel with a wide edge. In some cases, the slope finish is carried out on top of the old layer of plaster. In this case, you only need to remove the whitewash. At the final stage preparatory work the slopes and adjacent surfaces are cleaned from dirt and dust, since the final result will depend on the cleanliness.

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Technology of plastering window slopes

For plastering internal slopes, you can use dry gypsum plaster. This mixture is fast drying. It is better to mix it with construction mixer. Such a solution can be applied in a thicker layer than cement-sand plaster, which is the determining factor if it is necessary to putty deep potholes in old slopes.

Sand is added to the cement mixture in a ratio of 1: 2 if a plaster layer of more than 30 mm is to be applied. outdoor window slopes handle cement mixture or facade starting putty with the addition of water-repellent agents.

At the first stage of plastering work in inner corner slope (near the window itself), a beacon is installed according to the level: a metal profile of the required length is mounted on the solution.

For restriction outer corner installed wooden lath or a rule that nestles against the edge of a wall adjacent to a slope. From the side of the wall, it can be fixed with clamps, dowels or self-tapping screws. The verticality of this design must be checked using the building level. In the same way, the upper slope is prepared, from which plastering begins.

Plaster for slopes is applied in 3 layers: thin spray, basic primer and finishing layer, the thickness of which should not exceed 2 mm. After the main plaster is sketched, it is pulled together from the bottom up with a rule or a trowel. After a certain time, when the plaster dries a little, the rule is removed, and the remaining areas are sealed with mortar. After that, the processing of the corners is carried out.

The plastering of the corners is carried out after the slopes and walls have completely dried. Corners are processed with the same plaster solution using a trowel or trowel. At the same time, in the corners, the mixture is leveled with smooth movements from the bottom up and to the sides.

The plaster layer near the corner should form a flat surface with the wall.

The slope is one of the main elements of the window or doorway. Without side surfaces, the entire structure can hardly be called complete. Firstly, incompleteness always looks unattractive, and secondly, slopes are additional protection against heat loss, which is very important for complex facade insulation.

You can save on energy consumption, and if you choose budget material the benefit will be significant. - most cheap way finishes. All work can be done independently, for this you will need plastering material, tools and basic skills.

It is unfair to consider the method of plastering slopes hopelessly outdated. Modern technologies greatly facilitate Finishing work and allow home craftsmen to do everything on their own. Difficulties in working with plaster mixtures occur extremely rarely.

This is a classic, one of the familiar materials that is easy to work with. If you follow the technology, you can not worry about the result. Plastered surfaces are durable, moisture resistant and environmentally friendly.

External slopes are made in different ways. In addition to plaster for external decoration and insulation, they use:

• metal;
• drywall;
• tree;
• lime;
• PVC panels;
• a rock.

These are the most popular materials, each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. Stucco slopes are chosen by those who value durability and visual appeal. This material has stood the test of time and is associated with reliability. Plus, in affordability, the cost of arrangement will be minimal.

With proper implementation installation work seams will remain invisible. The plaster mortar fills all cracks and crevices, which ensures the integrity of the structure, high-quality sound absorption and waterproofing. This material is resistant to mechanical stress, easy to repair and update. It can be painted, varnished, decorated with decorated elements.

How to choose a plaster and prepare the right solution?

A mixture for plastering slopes can be bought. Best suited for outdoor work facade plaster. Following the instructions, dry mixtures are diluted and applied to surfaces. Despite the inconvenience and efficiency of preparation ready solutions, many prefer to make their own mixtures. Their quality depends on the observance of proportions and the choice of the desired material.

For exterior finish slopes are frost-resistant and moisture-resistant, best option- cement-sand mortar. It is cement that is the most durable among the binding materials for external slopes. The component composition provides excellent adhesion to the base. The integrity of the coating is maintained much longer than with other mixtures. Building plaster and clay are inferior in many respects. They are sensitive to moisture, which can lead to the destruction of the coating.

Cement is diluted with water. The most commonly used filler is sand. The standard proportion is 1:3, the consistency of "liquid sour cream" is considered ideal. Too thick a mixture can cause cracking of the surface, and a weak aqueous solution will spread.

seizes cement-sand mixture after 15 minutes, hardens in 11-12 hours. If you do the plastering of slopes with your own hands and there is no experience in this matter, it is better to prepare the solution in small portions. The application process requires promptness, you can simply not cope, as a result, the material will harden and be unusable.

Ideally, on a well-finished slope, defects do not appear. The plaster should not flake off, crumble, crack, etc. If these phenomena are observed, additional costs for restoration and sealing will be required. In order to prevent marriage in work, we first advise you to study the instructions for using the material or consult with professionals.

External slope plastering technology

The arrangement of slopes is a laborious process. It will take patience, accuracy and care. When you get to work on your own, consider three key points for proper plastering: high-quality mortar, competent application technology and professional grouting. Algorithm for finishing window and doorways in many ways similar, all plastering work can be done in 3 stages:

Leveling and cleaning surfaces

The bases must be clean. To do this, remove all dirt and external defects: protruding mounting foam, remnants of old plaster and paint, greasy spots. Cracks are carefully cleaned. If this is not done, the new layer will simply fall off.

The original surface should not have lagging parts and irregularities. In order to avoid deviations, it is checked for a vertical. With minor irregularities and the presence of voids, a leveling plaster layer is applied. For large deviations, a wire mesh can be used.

Application of the mixture

The plaster layer should not exceed 7 mm. Each next one is applied only when the previous one dries up. This is one of the main rules for plastering slopes. There are other nuances. The desired thickness is marked with a pencil and. They serve as a guide and allow you to achieve maximum evenness.

To improve adhesion, before starting work, the solution is made more liquid and distributed over the surface. Do this by throwing on a plane with a spatula. The solution should stick immediately and not spread. You can correct the surface small.

Finishing

After the solution dries, the corners are corrected, the slopes themselves are overwritten and treated with a primer. The final design depends on preferences. This can be painting, tiling, varnishing, etc. The main thing at this stage is to wait for the solution to dry completely.

In this chain of actions, it is important to follow the sequence. This is the only way to achieve a good result and enjoy the work done. Plastering slopes will not take much time, and with a competent approach, it will transform the facade and protect it from bad weather. Moreover, all this with minimal costs and labor costs.

Plastering slopes after the final installation of plastic windows gives aesthetic appearance. The final work can be done independently or with the help of specialists.

It's no secret that there are other ways finishing. For example, the use of panels made of drywall, wood, plastic. Plastering window slopes has several advantages:

• Long time use.
• Low material cost.
• Ease of execution, you just need to choose the right way to plaster the slopes.
• Stability, strength.
• Good thermal insulation.
• Hiding mounting parts if necessary.

Plastering of slopes of both plastic windows and wooden ones is possible.

Tools and materials

For convenient and accurate work, we will need:

How to make a mortar for plastering

Depending on the humidity of the room and the installation of the considered part of the window opening - internal or external, they choose how to plaster it. You also need to take into account that we live in a strip where the main season is winter, which means that the composition should be frost-resistant.

In an apartment with high humidity for external slopes, it is better to choose a composition with cement. Please note that it has water-repellent and heat-insulating effects.

Gypsum or lime-gypsum mixtures are suitable inside the house.

In both cases, you can use acrylic material but be warned, it's not cheap.

The mixture is bought or made by yourself.

If you decide to use the latter method, remember that incorrectly calculated proportions will lead to poor results: a composition with a high fat content (a high amount of binder material) may begin to crack after drying. do all the work again. Do not prepare a lot of solution at once. If you do not have time to use it within an hour, it will harden. When choosing a solution, you need to take into account that the gypsum mixture dries much faster than cement.

Properly mixed plaster will stick to the blade a little.

Surface preparation

First you need to close window block. This is best done with construction tape, and cover the window sill with a film. The surface of the side opening of PVC windows must be cleaned, then
align. Previous layers of plaster will also need to be removed. The old mixture will fall off if tapped on both sides. At the same time, it is convenient to help yourself with a construction knife.

Brick walls are treated with a solution of hydrochloric acid, and then washed with water. If there are oil stains, you need to apply oily clay on them, let it dry, rinse with water.

For better adhesion of the composition to the surface, it is better to use a deep penetration primer. Then install beacons so that the job is done smoothly. Visual perception will not help here. Finishing slopes with plaster is carried out strictly along the guides. The primer should dry well.

Slope insulation and soundproofing

Following right technology do-it-yourself plasters for plastic windows, you can significantly improve the thermal insulation in the apartment. To do it well, you need to remember:

from inside the room it will be correct to use more airtight, dense materials, and closer to the outside - heat-insulating, porous.

This creates ventilation of the insulation, which avoids condensation.

The quality of sound insulation depends not only on the design of the double-glazed window - the type of window seals and sealant is also important. Sound absorption will be higher with more elastic materials.

Now on the market there is a large selection of heaters, ranging from polyurethane foam to polyethylene foam.

How to plaster slopes on windows?

It is necessary to start plastering the slopes on the windows indoors, and first of all they do the right and left sides, and then the bottom and top of the surface.

Do-it-yourself plastering of the outer slopes of windows takes place using a similar technology. After working with plastic window a groove is made between the frame and the leveled surface with a spatula. Then fill it with sealant so that there are no cracks.

By following these simple rules, you can get the job done quickly and efficiently.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

After installing modern metal-plastic or wooden windows with double-glazed windows, it's time to take care of their framing - window slopes. Finishing the window opening is necessary not only to give the window a complete and neat appearance, but also to improve its thermal insulation qualities. The oldest, but to this day not lost its popularity way of finishing window and door slopes is plastering. We will try to figure out how to plaster the slopes on the windows with our own hands, and find out all the subtleties of this process.

Methods for finishing window slopes

When installing new windows in old buildings, unforeseen situations arise. Very often slopes window openings themselves "strive" to collapse. Under them are voids or a very large layer of insulation. This is usually due to unsustainable norms during construction work.

You can make new window or door slopes with your own hands from different finishing materials: MDF, drywall, plastic. However, the traditional plastering of slopes mortars has a number of advantages, including:

• high impact strength;
• long service life;
• affordable price.

There are also disadvantages to finishing window slopes with plaster. First of all, this insufficient thermal insulation and the possibility of cracking.

Plastering slopes in the openings of windows and doors is a rather painstaking work, but with some knowledge and a minimum ability to handle a spatula, it can be done by hand.

Tools and materials for plastering slopes

When doing the work with your own hands, for starters, you should decide on the selection of materials and tools with which you can plaster the slopes in window opening. Their list includes:

• plaster mixture;
• putty;
• primer;
• brush;
• mounting foam;
• spatulas of two types - wide and narrow;
• Master OK;
• grater and half grater;
• short level up to 1 meter long, plumb;
• roulette;
• goniometer;
• containers for solution and water.

To remove an excess layer of old plaster from the window slopes, you will need a perforator, in the absence of which you can use a hammer and a chisel.

As a composition for plastering slopes, both a cement-sand mortar and a dry gypsum mixture are suitable. Plaster mortar based on gypsum will cost you a little more, but it has some important advantages:

• high plasticity, providing convenience during work with slopes;
• the possibility of applying a thicker layer.

Preparatory work

Preparation includes several stages: protection of windows or doors, elimination of gaps and surface treatment of slopes.

Structural protection

Before finishing the slopes, it is necessary to take care of the safety of the window sill, as well as the windows or doors themselves. They need to be protected not only from mechanical damage, but also from the ingress of a solution, which is especially dangerous for wooden structures due to the possibility of swelling, deformation, damage to the veneer or varnish.

1. The surface of the window sill is covered with thick paper.
2. Joints, frames of windows or doors are pasted over with construction tape.
3. The door leaf can be removed or covered with oilcloth or film.

Do not forget also about the safety of fittings and heating batteries. It is easier to wrap them in rags or paper than to wash them for a long time.

Sealing gaps

Wide gaps between the window and the opening are sealed by the installation team, but small gaps may remain. In this case, you can fill them with mounting foam with your own hands. After it hardens, the excess is carefully cut off with a knife so that a small recess is obtained up to 2-3 cm deep, which will subsequently be filled with a solution.

Slope surface preparation

This stage consists of the following steps:

1. Remains of old plaster, paint or oil stains are removed from the surface of the window opening.
2. If there are smooth places, notches are made on them.
3. After cleaning, the slopes are primed, which is necessary to increase adhesion - adhesion of two dissimilar materials. Processing is done with a wide brush.
4. After the composition has dried, you can proceed to the next part of the work.

Installation of beacons

Professional builders perform plastering work by beacons made of wood or metal. If a small layer is required, then the slopes can be plastered according to the marks from the gypsum mixture.

If you are going to plaster slopes with your own hands, having absolutely no experience in leveling surfaces building mixtures, then it is better to purchase ready-made beacons for plastering in the store. In extreme cases, you can use strips of plywood.

• By outer wall along the entire plane, the beacons are fastened with nails or screws. The vertical is set with a plumb line, and the horizon level with a level.
• The second beacons must be installed so that they are adjacent to the window frame or door block. They are fastened with a mixture with the addition of gypsum, into which the profile is pressed. To do this, you can also use a clean, quickly solidifying alabaster.

alignment

After all the preparatory work, a sketch begins, and then the alignment of the prepared mixture or mortar onto the plane of the opening. When the entire space between the beacons is filled, the entire surface is smoothed from the bottom up with a trowel. Thus, work is done on all three sides of the window: right, left and top.

Making door slopes is a mandatory part overhaul or finishing a newly built house. Classic design today we can consider their plastering. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with such a finish, there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, but, subject to technology, do-it-yourself plastering of slopes can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

How to plaster slopes

What plaster is better to plaster slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. Which is better for you is up to you.

Technology

Plastering slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work ahead is dirty, therefore it is desirable door leaf, gender and door frame cover with a film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Training

The first stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, other building material. If the doors have changed old plaster it can stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it is beaten.

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Cleaned off also old paint: plaster does not adhere well to it. After that, dust and dirt are removed.

If the cracks didn't foam when you installed the door, you'll need to do it now. Mounting foam applied to the wetted surface volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with ordinary stationery for paper.

If they plaster cement-sand mortar moisten the surface. This can be done from the same spray gun or with a brush, roller.

We expose the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, in order to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Well fixed, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, because for some reason this edge always lifts up during work and causes a lot of inconvenience.

You can fix the corner in several ways:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that has come out through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take a flat bar (you can use building level or rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by running a finger along the junction.

There is another way to fasten the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used for plastering: the hats interfere.

The second guide doorjamb. When installing the door, they were set exactly, so this is a good guideline. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is even, and it glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess solution should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during a fine finish.

Do-it-yourself rough plastering of slopes

The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is thrown onto a dust-free and wetted surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - whoever is used to it. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.

Leading the rule or template along the guides, shaking from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you can not achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing.

Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressed, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there is usually no problem. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, the solution, especially cement-sand, “sticks” badly. In this case, it is necessary to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

Treatment may also be required if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker brick, For example). Only in this case, the primer should still reduce the absorption of moisture. The second option is to use special formulations Knauf - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive remarkably "clings" to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as a wonderful base.

If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortars and spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can do. The view is almost the same, but done faster. After you can.

Finishing layer

After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled, applying a second finishing layer. It is impossible to start leveling too early - the solution “floats”, loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not “float”.

For fine alignment, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Grout

This step creates a perfectly flat surface. You can overwrite the plaster only after the mortar has set. This should take at least 16-24 hours (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take a little grout from the wall in your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles - you can work, if it is smeared - we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monophonic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be puttied. But this is how your do-it-yourself plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But again, this is not necessary.

This video shows how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If further the slope is painted, the putty is perfectly leveled. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be stacked in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all the flaws that are difficult to remove are eliminated. cement mortar. After finishing putty dry, all irregularities and protrusions are polished with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If the old slopes were slightly damaged during the installation of the door and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. It will only be necessary to throw a cavity with a solution and level it with a long trowel (trowel).

Stucco doorway

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case, the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and their installation methods are different.

The plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the principle of selection is the same).

Guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second - on the left, they are fixed. The easiest way to fix them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.