How to put flexible shingles on the roof correctly. How to lay shingles

The shingle-tiled houses look fabulous. It is difficult to imagine a roof more beautiful than a covered with tiles from soft tiles... For clarity, we note that it is also called bituminous and soft roofing.

Shingles in the form of shingles or tiles are roofing material that looks like honeycombs or rectangles.

There are honeycomb, square and rectangular shapes with and without shadows. The shadows on them can be slim and messy. There are options for creating a 3D effect on the roof.

They are distinguished by color: brick-red, green, blue, light blue, coal gray tiles.

In addition to the beautiful material in the form of tiles or shingles, there are materials in the form of rolls, called roll bitumen tiles.

The structure of tiled soft tiles

A separate element consists of 5 layers, each of which has important functions:

At the base of the shingles there is a fiberglass or reinforcing base, it increases the mechanical tensile strength of the material.
Next comes protective layer from exposure to moisture and water. It is made from SBS (modified) or rubber bitumen. This layer makes the material elastic. Thanks to this layer, the shingles got their name. It is resistant to temperature changes.
Mineral dressing on bitumen rubber makes the shingles resistant to UV rays. It gives a shade to the coating, thanks to which it blends into the surrounding landscape, it does not slip, which is important for builders working at height.
The self-adhesive layer under the layer of modified bitumen serves to fix a separate part to the batten and to another one. The layer consists of a bituminous mass, which itself serves as a waterproofing layer.
There is a silicone film under it, which is removed just before pasting.

Some types of shingles provide for two types of fastening: glue and bitumen.

The main technical characteristics of flexible (bituminous) shingles

If you decide to cover your roof with flexible tiles, then to decorate the valley, you can purchase not ordinary, but ridge-cornice tiles or tiles for the valley and lining. The last two are sold in bulk rolls, they allow you to make the roof not subject to wetting, completely protected from atmospheric agents.

Otherwise, the technical characteristics, regardless of the species, are approximately the same for each species. Its softening point is + 113 ° C, for underlayment 100 ° C. Flexibility on a bar - -15 ° C at R = 15 mm. The basis of the valley carpet is polyester, the rest of the carpet is fiberglass.

In comparison with metal shingles, flexible shingles have the same indicators of reliability and strength, and are easy to install. However, the flexible version is much superior to the metal one in terms of noise and sound insulation qualities, it does not corrode and has poor electrical conductivity.

Among the disadvantages are the flammability of shingles and their high cost.

The principle of choosing a roofing material is that the larger the angle of the roof relative to the landscape, the more flexible the coating.

What should be the roof of a private house to install shingles?

In order for the tiles to lay down correctly, it is necessary to achieve a dry, smooth and clean base, which must be made of moisture-resistant material: plywood, edged, tongue-and-groove boards, OSB, reinforced concrete slabs, etc. The gap between them is 3-4 mm, the difference in height should not exceed 2 mm. The size of plywood or other material should be determined by design calculations at a point load - 1.0 kN, snow - 1.8 kN / sq. m.

The structure of the roof of a private house as a basis for soft tiles:

The roof supports are the rafters, on which the inner lathing is located, which serves as a support for steam and thermal insulation.
The vapor barrier material protects the insulation from moisture coming from inside the room.
To reduce heat loss and protect and remove moisture, a superdiffusion membrane is used, on which a counter-lattice is mounted with ventilation gaps and crate for OSB.
OSB is a popular material used as a roofing base on which flexible roofing and underlayment are laid.
Next, a lining carpet is laid, a valley, providing additional waterproofing.

As a basis for soft tiles, a hard flooring covered with roofing material can be used. It is assembled from wood tiles or grooved boards.

It should be borne in mind that the arrangement of the lining material for a flat and a roof with steep slopes will be different.

Lining for soft tiles

In the device of a sloping roof, the presence of special hydro- and heat-insulating materials is mandatory. They prevent the formation of condensation, aid evaporation and keep precipitation out.

Layers of lining material are laid over the entire surface area from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm.Along the frontal line of the eaves, the material is fixed with nails, retreating from each other by 20 cm.

A roof with steep slopes, the angle of which is more than 20 degrees, does not need to be installed with underlayment. It is enough to lay an insulating covering on the ridge, fix the canvases to the eaves and the end part.

In any case, the lining material is laid:

stove pipes;
attic windows;
areas of joining of a horizontal plane with vertical walls.

The thermal insulation layer should be at least 14-15 cm, the vapor barrier - a film of 0.5 g / m2 / 24. Copper wire stretched between the rafters mineral wool keep from slipping.

Possible ways of installing a roof with soft tiles

There are three ways to install soft tiles:

Bituminous tiles in the form of a roll are mounted by fusing. For this, a special gas burner warm up the canvas from the back side. On contact with the surface, the material is sintered with the backing layer.
The polymer element is glued, preheated with a hot stream of air. Reliability of fixation is provided by ballast or telescopic fastening. A layer of mastic is applied after or sprayed on.
Piece bitumen shingles are fixed with wide-headed nails or self-tapping screws. Strength must be provided by the adhesive backing in addition to the sintering of the elements heated under the sun.

Let's consider each of these methods in more detail.

Installation of roll tiles

Used to cover buildings with concrete floors: multi-storey buildings, garages, brick and concrete buildings.

Before laying, the surface is cleaned from the old layer. Check for blisters and blisters at the base. If necessary, remove irregularities with cement milk. The holes are filled with mortars.

To apply rolled bitumen shingles you will need:

gas (propane) burner with a hose and a cylinder;
poker;
reducer.

Works are carried out at a temperature of at least 5 ° C. The roll is laid so that the back side is adjacent to the surface. With a propane burner, the fabric and the base are heated to a state of reflow upper layers... The poker is pushing the roll towards themselves. As a result, the base of the roof and the roll are soldered.

The joints of the roof with other surfaces must be covered with two layers of shingles.

When applied, the rolled fabric overlaps one another by about 10 cm. At the end of the roll, the edges overlap each other by 15 cm. At the joints, leaked molten bitumen should remain in a more or less uniform strip.

The edges along the edge of the roof are fixed with nails in a step of 20.0 cm.

For this type of roofing, roofs with a slope of no more than 11.3 ° C are suitable.

Installation of flexible tiles made of polymer

Polymer shingles are similar to plastic and are used on complex roofs. These polymer products are sold in sets of shingles of various configurations. In the finished form, the roof looks like a slate, made in the form of waves different forms and flowers.

The shingles are very easy to install. On the reverse side, it is covered with a film that easily peels off. There is an adhesive and bituminous layer under it. The glue holds the parts together with a flat roof surface, the bitumen strips melt when heated and also provide reliable adhesion.

Polymeric material is not inferior to metal tiles in terms of technical characteristics. If the surface is dirty, it is easy to restore its former appearance with the help of water.

Installation of flexible (soft) tiles

To install a flexible part, you do not need to have any special skills, as required by working with metal. It is enough to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. Basically, all work boils down to the following.

Before laying the shingles, a drainage system is installed. The edges of the roof are trimmed with a cornice strip. The gaps are protected with special strips from atmospheric agents, insects, dust penetration, etc.

After insulating and protecting the roof from moisture, it is covered with a lining carpet. The surface becomes perfectly flat, tiles of flexible tiles are attached to it with glue, and on top they are additionally strengthened with ruff nails.

Getting started requires special attention. The tiles are laid from the left corner of the bottom of the roof. To do this, take the starting strip for the cornice. In the first row, the tiles are installed without cutting. In the second, 14.3 cm is cut from the left, in the third - 28.6 cm. These manipulations with the material are necessary for the correct pattern of the masonry. The fourth row is laid without cutting, then according to the pattern. Each part is additionally reinforced with fasteners.

For the design of the ridge, an adjustable angle with perforation is acquired, which is necessary for air circulation under the roof.

Places of abutments of soft tiles

Special attention should be paid to the places of contact of the tiles with obstacles: pipes, ventilation, places on the valley.

Overlaps of one material on another during installation are coated with bituminous mastic.

There are special rubber seals for small aisles. The joints with the roof surface of the chimneys are insulated. To do this, a rail is nailed along the perimeter, a carpet is applied on top for insulation. The roofing material is brought out to an angled surface and glued.

The pipe is closed by 30.0 cm, the slope - by 20.0 cm. The edges are covered with a tin abutment strip, the seams are tightly sealed.

The bar is fastened with conventional fasteners, for example, self-tapping screws.

The seams are sealed with a silicone-based sealant that is not exposed to weathering.

They also decorate the abutments to the walls of buildings. The wall is finished with plaster and treated with a bituminous primer.

The place of the valley is covered with a special lining carpet or metal valley, the center of which should coincide with the roof fold line (the center of the valley). 7.5 cm is measured from it in each direction and a line is drawn with chalk or a construction pencil. Each shingle or row of soft shingles must be fitted to this line. The edges of the tiles are additionally reinforced with bitumen mastic according to the markings so that the edges are glued to the surface.

The tiles are cut 50 mm at a 45 degree angle and overlapped on the 30.0 cm valley.

Covering with soft tiles of a cone-shaped roof

Flexible or soft shingles are suitable for covering difficult to build surfaces such as a tapered roof. This is made possible by the easy handling of the flexible roofing material: it is easy to cut with a regular painting knife.

The tiles are laid as usual - from the bottom up. The base is covered with a continuous lining on which the tiles are laid. The height of each successive row should be reduced so that by the middle of the roof it is ½ of the tile. The top half of the cone should first be covered with vertical strips of backing material. Whole tiles are laid on it. Each detail, except for landing on glue, is fixed with self-tapping screws. After the end of the sticker, a metal tip is put on top of the tapered roof.

For domestic developers in recent decades, bituminous tiles have become the most attractive roofing material. It competes with varying success only with metal, piece roofing, including slate, is far behind.

The more knowledge about the material, the easier it is to understand certain requirements for laying technology. This will allow you to avoid many annoying mistakes during the installation of the roof and significantly improve the quality and durability of the coating.

What are shingles made of?

Layer name	Technical and operational parameters
Base	All top layers are applied to the base, it is made of durable fiberglass. It is not afraid of moisture, it can stretch a little without losing its original mechanical strength... The plasticity of the fiberglass allows you to compensate for minor changes in the linear dimensions of the roof. There is no need to be afraid of deflections of the rafter system or lathing, vibrations between slopes and chimneys. But this does not mean that the rafter system can be unstable, it means only cases of critical loads during various natural disasters.
Bitumen	Natural natural bitumen is not used in modern coatings due to its very low performance. Over time, it hardens, loses its elasticity, through cracks appear in it. Another problem with simple bitumen is that it reacts very negatively to ultraviolet radiation. To improve physical performance, scientists have developed special additives, the material has become much more resistant to various natural and climatic factors. Not afraid of UV rays, does not harden when negative temperatures etc. But bitumen shingles still cannot be installed at negative temperatures.
Powder	Shale or basalt is used as a powder; to increase the surface area of individual particles, basalt rocks are crushed to granulate and become rounded. Such forms adhere very tightly to bitumen and crumble more slowly. The granulate has two functions. The first is purely technical - protection of modified bitumen from sunlight and mechanical damage... The second is to improve the external design type.

Prices for various types and manufacturers of flexible tiles

In the building materials market, there are a large number of domestic and foreign companies engaged in the production of flexible shingles. There are many varieties of coatings that differ not only in design, but also in the device: technical characteristics bases, the characteristics of modified bitumen, the shape of the shingles, external protective and decorative coatings... Accordingly, the installation technology is slightly different, but for all types of bituminous tiles there are several general and binding rules.

Base

Soft roofs are installed only on solid sheathing.

It can be made from OSB boards, plywood or thin edged boards. The last option is the most expensive and the most problematic from the point of view of technology; it is not recommended to use it. As for plywood and OSB, they fully meet all the requirements, and the thickness is regulated by the sheathing step.

Due to this approach, you can influence the cost of the structure. For example, lay cheap thin slabs on cheap unedged boards, and not expensive thick on expensive slats. One more nuance must be borne in mind. Many builders require buying only waterproof types of plywood or OSB for a continuous sheathing for soft tiles., although such materials are much more expensive than conventional ones. Why not listen to their advice? Firstly, the lathing should only withstand the load on the roof, and not protect it from leaks. Secondly, leaks must be eliminated immediately, no plates will eliminate them. The earlier the roof is repaired, the longer the building will be in operation. The durability and tightness of the roof does not in any way depend on the moisture resistance of the solid sheathing.

Climatic conditions for installation

Most manufacturers claim that their soft tiles can be installed at an air temperature of + 5 ° C. You need to know that this is the minimum temperature at which the adhesion indicators of bituminous mastics are at the minimum permissible level, and it does not guarantee the reliability of fixation. In addition, the daytime temperature + 5 ° С with a high probability indicates that it dropped below zero at night. In such conditions, frost appears on the surface of plywood or OSB, and on a cool day the moisture does not have time to dry completely. Big problems will arise during the sealing of the junctions to the roof of chimneys, ventilation pipes and other utilities located on the roof. Do not risk the quality of the coating, work only in dry and warm weather.

Additional materials

The quality of the shingles of soft tiles influences appearance and the reliability of coverage on flat slopes. But leaks most often occur not on flat slopes, but in junctions, valleys, etc. These places are sealed with special additional elements and materials, only high-quality products should be used. It is very important that all elements and main coatings are from the same source. In difficult places, it is better to play it safe than rely on luck and try to simplify the technology recommended by the manufacturer.

Tools

The main rule for all professionals is that the tools must be in good condition and complete. To install soft tiles, you will need a drill, a putty knife, a paint brush, metal scissors, measuring tools and a chopping rope. It is advisable to have a special belt, it is much more convenient to work with it, everything necessary tools always at hand. Experienced builders know how much labor time can be saved if everything needed for installation is within reach and in place. If the styling technology provides for hot gluing, then you need to have a hair dryer for heating.

Prices for a range of pneumatic staplers

Pneumatic staplers

Coating storage rules

Already before starting the installation, it is opened, the shingles from different packs are mixed. The fact is that the production technology does not allow making external coatings completely identical in shades, if they are not evenly mixed, then large multi-colored spots will be noticeable on the roof, which significantly worsens the appearance of the building.

Litter carpets are stored upright.

Preparing the lathing

In our case, a solid OSB board lathing with a thickness of only 9 mm, to increase bearing capacity I had to reduce the pitch of the crate. If in the future it is planned to insulate the roof from the inside, then it is imperative to install a windscreen and provide air vents for natural ventilation. Prepare materials and tools, mix shingles from different packs.

Important. Never work on a roof without insurance. Especially if the crate is solid, there are no slats on it that can delay the fall. In the absence of special professional equipment, ordinary ropes and belts can be used. It must be remembered that all safety rules are written in someone's blood.

Plates need to arrive randomly, this increases the stability of the rafter system. For fixing, you can use ordinary nails (fast, durable and cheap) or self-tapping screws (long, expensive, but fashionable).

It is not necessary to fix the plates with stainless steel hardware, they are not affected by precipitation. The length of the nails should be at least 2/3 longer than the thickness of the materials to be fastened.

But this statement is very controversial. First, the slab firmly nailed large quantity nails, and so will not be able to expand freely, for this she must pull out the hardware. Secondly, it is protected by a lining and shingles, which almost completely eliminates direct contact with water. Thirdly, if any leak appears, then it has a local character and cannot wet the entire stove. Conclusion - there is no need to specifically maintain any gaps. They are - great, no - not a problem. If, for technological reasons, in some areas the slabs need to be pressed tightly, press down. If you need to move it a little to the sides, let the cracks remain.

Inexperienced builders do not know how, in practice, to relate the dependence of the thickness of the slab and the pitch of the lathing. This is easy to do. Place two slats on the rafter legs at a distance of about 50 cm, on top of the OSB board. Press it with your hand with maximum effort, if the surface bends, then reduce the step of the crate, if not, then you can increase it. There is no need to make long and complex calculations, the parameters are determined in just a few minutes.

OSB (Oriented Strand Board) prices

OSB (oriented strand board)

Laying valleys and carpet underlay

Laying of soft tiles begins with these operations. There is no big difference in the technology of installation of coatings from different manufacturers and price categories. If you fully understand one type of roof, then you can work with others without any problems. All work should begin with checking the skates. You need to find out their length and width, measure the diagonals. The best case is that the roof has an ideal rectangular shape. If there are problems, then they need to be corrected partly at the stage of manufacturing the lathing, and partly during the direct coating. The ratio should be chosen so that, after corrections, the roof has a symmetrical appearance.

Object before laying flexible tiles and installing OSB-3 boards

Step 1. Work begins with the ends (joints of two slopes). Lay in them underlay carpet, it is implemented in a set with a roof. The color of the front surface matches the color of the tiles.

The width of the carpet is not less than one meter, there should be about 50 cm of protection on both sides. Straighten the fabric carefully, avoid creases. Cut off excess pieces. After the fitting is finished, you should coat the edges with bitumen mastic and finally glue the carpet. The mastic should be of high quality, the width of the smeared strip should be at least ten centimeters. The thickness of the mastic layer is about 1 mm, cover the entire surface with the material without gaps, use a stainless steel spatula of the appropriate width.

The valley carpet is glued in parts after fitting and checking the position. Make sure that it does not move during pressing. You can press it with your hands or with a hard rubber roller. To guarantee, nail it with wide-headed studs. But it is not necessary to do this, the valley carpet is closed on top with a bedding, and then shingles of soft tiles. Drive in the carnations in 20-25 cm increments at a distance of three centimeters from the edge.

Step 2. Spread the underlayment along the main slope from bottom to top. Pay attention to the white stripes, they should be at the top. Subsequently, the protective paper is removed from these strips and the next strip of coating is glued. The tape should be as flat as possible, start fixing only after checking the position along the entire length.

Practical advice. If the roof slope is very large, then it is possible to make an intermediate fixation of the covering every 2.5–3.0 m, but the nails do not need to be driven in to the end. They can be completely hammered only after the roll has been rolled to the edge of the slope, and all the folds have been removed.

Carefully cut off the excess along the edge of the ramp. Fasten the underlayment with nails, drive them in as usual along the white stripe, then this place will close.

Step 3. When the first strip is fixed, you can start laying the second. Be careful that both white paper protective tapes are against each other, constantly check the position of the material. Everything is OK - peel off the protective paper from both strips and stick the cover. If the length of the roll is not enough, then the joining point must be made with an overlap of about 10 cm and be sure to coat it with bituminous mastic.

Continue covering the entire ramp batten using the same method. On the ridge, you need to put a gap for ventilation of the space above the insulation. Be sure to glue the underlay carpet to the valley, we have already mentioned that these places are the most dangerous, leaks often appear here.

Prices for lining carpets

Lining carpet

Fastening eaves and end metal strips

These are not only decorative elements, they fulfill an important technical task - they protect the crate from moisture and prevent litter from undermining by sharp gusts of side wind.

Step 1. Reinstall the first eaves plank, making sure that it is in line with the bottom edge of the ramp batten. Fix it with studs in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of about 20-25 cm. In these places, it is advisable to use galvanized hardware, although the usual ones will last more than a dozen years. Slip the next bar under the previous one so that it falls into place, cut the corner with scissors for metal.

Step 2. Nail in the end (wind) metal strips, the fixing method is the same as described above. The docking point is fixed with a separate nail. Pay attention that there is no gap in the corner of the junction of the cornice and wind bar. Make a small issue, and sharp corner cut carefully with scissors.

Such work should be done around the entire perimeter of the roof. When all the planks are in place, you can start installing the shingles.

Practical advice. To facilitate the work, it is recommended to do the simplest rope ladder... A leg is inserted into the loops, and hands are held by the knots. Such an elementary device not only increases the safety of the work, but also makes it easier for the roofer to climb a steep slope.

Laying soft tiles

You need to start work by accurately marking the position of the first row; for this purpose, a line is beaten off on the lining. How exactly? Measure from the edge the width of the soft tile and add 10 mm to this value, this is how much the first row should recede from the curvature of the eaves. Such marks should be on both sides of the ramp. Then, with the help of a chopping construction cord, you need to beat off the line. The markings made will speed up the work, there will be no need to take measurements every time. In addition, with its help, it will be possible to make the first row perfectly even, and it is he who first of all catches the eye.

Step 1. Look closely at the back of the shingles, there are two films. On one it is written that it cannot be removed before editing, and on the second, vice versa. Remove the wide tape, it will expose the adhesive bitumen layer.

Step 2. Lay the first shingle in such a way that its top edge is exactly in line with the broken line. Align the edges, they should be 10 mm from the windshield and eaves. Press the adhesive firmly against the metal. Then continue working according to the same algorithm, the shingles of the eaves tile should be even at the joints, no overlaps are made.

Step 3. Begin gluing with regular shingles. The protective plastic film must also be removed before installation.

Important. Ordinary shingles are 10 mm narrower than eaves. For correct styling you need to align the upper ends of the materials along one line, at the bottom there will be a difference in length of one centimeter.

Make sure the ends are perfectly parallel to the metal strips. Press the shingles firmly with your hands. We have already mentioned that the warmer it is outside, the better the coating adheres, the more reliable the fixation.

Drive in wide-headed studs 1 cm under each sticky strip. There is one feature - at the top of the shingle, only one nail is driven in at the corners. In this way, secure the entire first row of shingles.

Step 4. After finishing the installation of the first row of ordinary shingles, you can proceed to the second. The technology requires that the second row is glued with a shift, due to this, the joints of the shingles of the first are covered and sealed, at the same time the heads of the hammered nails are closed. Manufacturers have provided for such an offset, you do not need to measure anything. Step back the width of the adhesive strips and position the next shingle over them, taking into account the dimensions of the cutouts. Further, the installation technology is no different.

Due to the fact that the second row fits with an offset, the extreme shingle will have to be cut. Place it in place, mark the cutting points. It is better to cut soft tiles on small wooden supports, they are guaranteed to protect the litter from accidental damage. But experienced roofers do this on already installed tiles, turn the shingle with the back side and carefully cut it off with a sharp knife. It is not recommended for beginners to do this, the risks of damaging the coating are too great.

Step 5. On each fixed row, in turn, bend the sheets of soft tiles and hammer in a nail under them. Then smear the back of the petal with mastic and glue to the bottom shingle. The petals have bitumen under the protective film, but to guarantee adhesion strength, experienced builders recommend additionally lubricating the surfaces with mastic. This does not take much time and completely excludes the blowing of elements by gusts of wind.

How to make a valley and a skate

Find the exact location of the valley, step back 2-3 cm and push a thin wooden lath... It is needed so that the coating is not damaged during cutting off the sections of the flexible roof protruding beyond the bend. Cut them off with a sharp knife under a metal ruler (you can use building level), it will take a lot of effort, achieve the most even and accurate cut. Move the wood strip up the valley as needed and continue to cut off excess soft shingles. After that, it is necessary to lay the tiles to the end on the second adjoining ramp and again make a cut at the bend. You will get an even and beautiful junction of two slopes.

A special additional element is mounted on the ridge. It must close the gap from rain and snow and at the same time provide effective ventilation of the roof space. We have already mentioned that this is necessary for warm roofs, if they are cold, then ventilation is not done. The panel is folded at the desired angle and laid on the ridge, fixed with nails with anti-corrosion coating or made of stainless alloys. To protect against ultraviolet radiation and improve the design appearance, the surface of the plastic ridge element is covered with flexible tiles, which are nailed. Do not forget to insert special foam rubber bands into place, they do not allow insects to enter the ventilated space.

Video - Installation of bituminous tiles

Soft roofing is an excellent replacement for traditional roofing materials. Its advantages include low weight, flexibility, low cost, and ease of installation.

It takes several people to install traditional roofing materials such as asbestos-cement slate, roof tiles and galvanized steel. Roofing with these materials took a long time.

A soft roof is devoid of these disadvantages. In the construction market, it is presented not only as a piece material, but also as a roll material. The rest of the article will tell you how to complete the installation soft roof do it yourself.

Soft roofs are also sometimes called bituminous shingles because they are based on bitumen. However, there is no need to dismiss this material. It has practically nothing to do with roofing material. Soft roofing is a durable roofing material with a long service life. It is much stronger than traditional roll roofing materials.

Bituminous roofing is manufactured using the latest technology. Therefore, it has many advantages. Such material is resistant not only to high temperatures, but also to low ones.

Shinglas soft tiles are manufactured by Technonikol. The service life of such tiles is 10 - 55 years. The roof, made of modern soft tiles, does not tear, and also does not lose its properties when the temperature changes. During manufacture, various modifiers are added to the material, which increase its bending strength.

Also, soft tiles have the following features:

In the process of making shingles, bitumen is melted with oxygen. Thanks to this, the melting point reached one hundred and ten degrees Celsius.
Flexible shingles are reinforced with fiberglass. Due to this, the material becomes more durable.
The top layer of the material includes stone dressing. It has a decorative and protective function.

Obviously, shingles are a strong and durable material. It is not at all difficult to install and operate such shingles. However, in order to properly carry out the installation of a soft roof, it is necessary to carefully disassemble the main stages of work.

Sizes of shingles

Soft tiles are a piece of roofing material. It is 100 centimeters long and 33 centimeters wide. The canvas has small size therefore one person can install this material.

Externally, flexible shingles look like a classic. Each web of material is divided into four sections. Each part is shaped like a geometric figure.

You need to lay this material on a pre-prepared base. For this, a solid crate is made. As a rule, plywood sheets are used as the material for the lathing.

Also, a "carpet" is placed under the bituminous shingles, which minimizes the negative impact on the roofing material and provides additional waterproofing.

Preparation of tools and materials

As mentioned above, the installation of a soft roof can be done alone. Before laying, it is necessary to prepare the following materials and tools:

Assembly knife;
Mastic;
Hammer;
Sealant;
End and cornice strips;
Master OK;
Roofing mop;

If the roofing is to be installed in cold weather, a gas burner is also required.

Insulation of a soft roof

The heat-insulating layer is attached from the street side. It should be noted that the first sheets must be placed between the rafters. However, before this, it is necessary to make a rough skin with inside roofs.

Optimum thickness thermal insulation material is 20 centimeters. Next, the installation of the counterbeam and another layer of heat insulator is carried out.

The waterproofing layer is overlapped parallel to the roof cornice. The overlap should be fifteen centimeters. Also, approximately 15 centimeters of waterproofing should extend beyond the thermal insulation contour. To fix the membrane, use construction stapler... Waterproofing joints are glued with self-adhesive tape.

Preparation of the base

The base for the roofing material must be extremely strong. It should not bend. The base can be made from the following materials:

OSB boards;
Plywood;
Grooved boards, the width of which is 10 centimeters.

If the base is made in winter, then gaps of 3 millimeters must be left between the seams of the material. If the base is made of boards, then the gap should be 5 millimeters.

Ventilation gap arrangement

Ventilation is very important for the roof of a building. Due to it, it is possible to avoid high humidity and reduce the amount of ice accumulating on the roof during the winter months. Ventilation also lowers the temperature inside the roofing pie during the summer months.

Part high-quality ventilation includes the following elements:

valves providing fresh air flow;
Ventilation outlet;
Air gap. It must be located between the waterproofing and the base of the roof. The gap should be 50 millimeters wide.

The ventilation area directly depends on the roof slope angle. With a roof slope of more than 25 degrees, the hole area should be 8 square centimeters. If the slope of the roofing does not exceed 25 degrees, then the area of the hole should be 16 square centimeters.

The importance of the liner

The lining is a special bituminous material... It is mounted around the perimeter of the entire roof.

Laying should be done from bottom to top. You need to start from the roof eaves. During the installation of the material, an overlap of 10 centimeters is performed. Regular nails are used as fasteners. They should be driven in every 20 centimeters.

If the slope angle of the roof does not exceed 18 degrees, then the lining material should be fixed only on the eaves of the eaves, ridge, at the junction with the wall and near the chimney.

If the slope of the roof does not exceed 12 degrees, then it is not advisable to lay a soft roof.

Securing the planks

Eaves strips (droppers) are attached to the roof overhangs. They protect the material from precipitation. They can be installed directly on the cushioning material. The planks are attached with an overlap of two centimeters. Roofing nails should be used as fasteners. They are driven in a zigzag pattern along the entire eaves.

Gable strips are mounted at the ends of the roof. They should also be fastened with an overlap of 2 centimeters. The nails are driven in at intervals of 10 centimeters.

After installing all the planks, the valley carpet is laid. This element significantly improves water resistance. It is important to note that the color of the valley carpet must match the color of the roof covering. The carpet should be fixed around the edges with nails in ten centimeters increments. Then you can lay a soft roof. Consider in stages the technology of installing bituminous tiles.

Laying eaves soft tiles

The eaves should be placed on the strips previously installed on the eaves. The fixing of the roofing material is carried out by means of galvanized nails. They should be hammered into the bottom and top edges of the material. In this case, the indent from the edges should be 25 millimeters.

To save money, you can install an ordinary one instead of a curtain tile. However, in this case, you will have to cut out the tiles. To do this, you will need to cut the shingle petals. The laying of material in such a situation is carried out end-to-end at a distance of 20 millimeters from the overhang.

Installation of ordinary flexible shingles

First of all, it should be noted that the tiles may differ in color, even if they are from the same batch. Therefore, it is advisable to mix several packages of roofing material before installation.

Installation of shingles starts from the center of the roof overhang. The canvases are stacked in both directions.

Remove the protective film from the shingles immediately before installation. The roofing material is fixed with nails (4 pieces for each shingle). If the roof slope is more than 45 degrees, then it is recommended to use 6 fasteners.

The edges of the first row of material should retreat 10-15 millimeters from the edges of the eaves. The joints between the tiles are overlapped with petals.

The second row of bituminous shingles are laid in the same way. However, here the petals overlap the cutouts of the previous one.

The exact same procedure is carried out in the valleys. First, the bituminous shingles are cut in such a way that a strip 15 centimeters wide is obtained, and then the edges are coated with glue by 7-8 centimeters.

It is best to trim the roofing material on a piece of plywood. Otherwise, damage may be caused to the layer below.

Installation of ridge tiles

The first step is to prepare the scaffold. They make it easier to do installation works with roof ridge.

Installation of bituminous tiles is carried out with an overlap. To fix each shingle, you need to use 4 nails. The overlap of the roofing material should be approximately 5 centimeters. It is important to note that the installation of ridge tiles is carried out only after the laying of an ordinary one.

To obtain a ridge tile, it is necessary to cut the eaves at the perforations. Then you need to bend each element and lay it in a short part along the roof ridge.

Arrangement of passages and junctions in the roof

There are several ways to make passages through the roof. Rubber seals can be used if the hole diameter is small. This method is used for antennas and other communications. Passages for chimney pipes are carried out differently. Heating and expansion should be considered here.

First of all, a triangular rail is nailed along the perimeter of the joint between the roofing and the pipe. As a rule, a rail with a cross section of 5x5 cm is used for this, then you need to grease the overlaps of the cushioning material with glue and lay it down.

It should be noted that the abutment of the roof to the vertical walls is carried out in the same way. There is only one difference - the triangular rail is attached along the wall.

Video about the installation of shingles:

Installation technology of a soft roof made of euroruberoid

Euroruberoid is a weldable roll material... He, like bituminous shingles, refers to a soft roof. Euroruberoid differs from bituminous shingles in that it can be used as a roofing material for a flat roof.

Base for roofing material

Euroruberoid should be laid on a hard and dry base. It must be free of dirt and dust before installing the roof covering. The basis can be concrete slabs or monolithic floors... But for this they must have a drain and a cement-sand screed.

Roofing material can also be welded onto OSB boards. The base prepared for laying the roof is treated with bitumen-polymer mastic. It is sold ready-to-use or as a concentrate. If the euroruberoid is to be laid on the old roofing, then no mastic is required.

You can find out the time of complete drying of the mastic on its packaging. Do not install roofing material ahead of time. Otherwise, the quality of the roof will suffer greatly.

The installation of the roofing material should be started from the gutter line (bottom). This line is parallel to the slope line. For this reason, the flowing sediments will not fall on the joints of the strips of the roofing material.

Laying euroruberoid

The roll of roofing material must be unwound so that there are no folds on it. Then you need to tighten it properly. To fix one edge of the euroruberoid, you need to heat it up with a burner until the indicator film melts. Then the edge of the roofing material must be glued to the base. When the edge hardens, the unwound Euro-roofing material will again roll up to the fixed place.

At the next stage of installation of a soft roof, the welding itself is performed. To do everything right, you must observe the following rules for arranging a soft roof made of euroruberoid:

It is strictly forbidden to overheat the roofing material. Otherwise, you will need to purchase a new one. When overheated, the roofing material stops sticking.
Have finished surface the roof should not be empty, black spots and places without special protective dressing. A high quality roof covering is always uniform.
Do not forget about the overlap when laying euroruberoid. It should be at least 10 centimeters long. As a guide, you can use a special strip applied along the entire length of the roofing material.

Particular attention should be paid to problematic areas of the roof: parapets, ventilation ducts and other elements located on the roof of the building. Roofing mastic must be applied to these areas, which, after drying, has the same protective properties as roofing material.

You should also treat junctions that can get snow in the winter months. For roofs with a steep slope, snow guards should be installed. To prevent ice build up in winter period it is necessary to correctly install the drip and drainage systems.

The technology of installing a soft roof made of euroruberoid differs from the technology of laying bituminous tiles. However, in both cases, it is necessary, upon completion of the installation work, to clean the roof of debris and foreign objects. Otherwise, the roofing material may deteriorate at the points of contact with these objects.

Video on how to install a soft roll roof with your own hands:

Let's summarize

Laying shingles roofing can be done by hand. There is no need to purchase expensive equipment to perform installation work. All you need is the usual builder tools. Even the installation of roof aerators is not difficult. The main thing in this business is to comply with safety rules.

It is best to start laying shingles in hot sunny weather. Then the shingles will fuse and create a single surface. A soft roof covering will last much longer if you lay the lining material, as well as a hydro and vapor barrier layer.

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. A variety of styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a complex roof structure - what more could you ask for? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of shingles itself will be within your power, believe me, even if this is the first time you come across this type of work!

Therefore, if you carefully read our tips, then with the help of one more person you will cover an even larger roof. The fact is that even in the factory, shingles are prepared for gluing, applying a special solution to the bottom layer, and even making four holes so that you know exactly where to drive in the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with a soft roof.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a continuous carpet on the inside of the roof, no gaps, and secure it to the rafters with wooden planks. You will attach to the same slats later inner lining attic.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it by itself, with the help of natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional bar is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with special tape (the usual one does not fit!).

Further, with outside lay the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably in a ragged way. Cover the top with a windproof membrane and secure with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation ducts.

As a result, you should have such a "puff cake" as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class how and in what order everything should happen:

As you can see from the above photos, it was not difficult to lay flexible sheets on the expelled lucarnes!

Step 2. Installation of solid flooring

For the installation of shingles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards on the prepared crate, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and fix it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for the base for shingles is a flat area and the ability to fix the shingles with nails. For this, sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue-and-groove boards, laid back to back, are suitable. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But it is a big mistake to use only the crate itself for a soft roof, albeit more frequent, because in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such mistakes.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the eaves with metal strips. These are laid with an edge on the edge of the base and fixed with roofing nails, with a step of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Select and install the underlay

Now is the time to take care of the waterproofing. It is needed in difficult places such as abutments, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from the bottom up with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal direction and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay, not roofing felt or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they and the final roofing have different service lives, and even the conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to the swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will give a guarantee for a roof that has been pieced together with third-party materials.

By the way, until recently in Russia lining carpets were practically not used, and even today many people try to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the whole house is not enough, and you have to make concessions. But, if you want to install shingle roofing and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will penetrate into the under-roof space, especially in such difficult places as bypassing chimneys or contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when strong wind lifts shingles during a downpour.

Moreover, it is not difficult to choose a roofing carpet, because the same requirements are imposed on it as to the tile: to be resistant to temperature extremes, to provide reliable waterproofing and to serve for a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today operate on European equipment and are not inferior to foreign counterparts in terms of product quality.

In general, lining carpets are of two types: self-adhesive and with mechanical fixation. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out on the remaining roof area and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the installation process for a conventional roofing carpet, which will need to be fixed with bituminous mastic:

Here's an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing carpet:

So, for a valley, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal. And, if the slopes have an inclination of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of probable leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all outlets of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Prior to that, on the eaves, we recommend placing a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, "Barrier", and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along its entire length:

Also pre-insulate ventilation passages, areas around roof windows and chimneys. Before installing the shingles, coat all the pass-throughs with your own hands with bitumen mastic - it's not difficult.

Before you start laying the shingles, you will also need to reinforce eaves... They need to be fixed with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm.Here is an informative video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To secure the shingles, you will need special nails with wide heads. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the head is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not "cut" into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for the installation of soft tiles are divided into the following types:

Roofing nails... They have such a sharpened point that when they are buried in the bituminous layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begins to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or building temporary huts.
Rusty nails... On the working rod, they have special teeth that are directed towards the cap. Such ones are not easily hammered into wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, in the process of dismantling, the cap is simply cut off from the brushed nails - and that's it. They fix the roofing so tightly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
Cliff nails have longitudinal grooves and lintels on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofs.

We recommend that you take galvanized flanged ones with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible shingles. They also produce special nails for bituminous shingles, and they differ from standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then, on one side, the workpiece is sharpened, and on the other, it is riveted into the shape of a hat. If you find these on sale, you can purchase.

But it is important in this case that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the head is at least 8 mm. The thing is that in working with specifically bituminous shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when nails, with the next blow, simply sink into the bituminous layer and violate the integrity of the coating. But the extended cap will not be able to “sink” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will be to hold the shingle, which is why high-quality shingle nails resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for one-layer and two-layer shingles, nails with parameters 30x3.5 mm will be needed, and for three-layer - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some would-be builders do not understand why it is impossible to just warm up the sheets of soft tiles and stick them on the flooring, why exactly nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to elementary considerations. fire safety... So forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic device.

Step 5. Placing the starting strip

And now we turn directly to the installation of shingles. It starts from the starting strip. As such, you can take:

a pattern from ordinary tiles, for example, shingles with cut petals, if you work with the collections “ Tango" or " Trio»;
universal ridge-eaves tile, especially if you work with " Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with eaves, lay them on top of the metal strip, slightly stepping back from the fold. Next, nail it down, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater the indentation from the bend should be:

This is how laying the starting strip looks like in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now we unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bitumen shingles at temperatures below + 5 ° С, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to do without cracks.

If you still have to fix the shingles in such conditions, then prophylaxis will be needed: the sheets are heated construction hairdryer and folded on metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it’s better not to do that.

Count up required amount shingles are not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of the slope and divide the second into the first. Here valuable advice on how to calculate and prepare shingles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, then you can do with detailed calculations, but the marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are installing a soft roof for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off a few sheets and reattaching them to fix the joint is not the most fun thing. And absolutely without marking, if some element is cut into the roof or the general geometry of the slope is broken. In this matter, you will be helped by tools such as a skip, a plumb line and a level.

As we have already said, usually for convenience, ready-made shingles are marked with small holes in the factory, so that you know exactly where to drive nails. If there are none (for example, in the cheapest collections), then just step back from the edge 2-3 cm and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place of driving the nail will directly depend on the cut shape of the tiles themselves. It is only important that each nail simultaneously stitches the lower and upper edges of all sheets, and if you are laying shingles on slopes with an angle of 45 °, then the upper corners of the shingles also need to be additionally fixed.

The whole procedure for laying shingles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

Mix a few sticks of shingles prior to installation to minimize shade variation. The fact is that even in one mail the color may differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
If the slope is long enough, start from the center of the roof and level it horizontally. And the second row - already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half the sheet. Move the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, too, half a petal, to the left or to the right, depending on which direction you chose initially.
You need to start laying the tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, while you should make an approach to a steeper slope of at least 30 cm.On a steeper slope, it is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to get lost. Now cut the shingles on a larger slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat with bitumen mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back.
Lay the shingles from the bottom up, stepping back from the edge of the drips. Here you will need to lay a special ridge-eaves tile. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut off the petals.

Now fix the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it will be powered by an electrical network. The main thing is, when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: trigger should be comfortable, protected from accidental shooting and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually the hammer is more intended for small works on household, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip of nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are interconnected thin wire... This tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one by one. It is much more convenient to work at height: you do not need to look for clusters, you do not need to expose your fingers to the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to observe the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was not securely fixed, then over time it will loosen its mount and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted from the wind, will tear the leaf, loosening the neighboring one. And all this will lead to a leak and necessary repairs... Of course, it will not be possible to completely do without problem areas, which is why a periodic inspection of such a roof is needed.

Now we will consider the features of mounting shingles of different types. So, from a single-layer shingle, before installation, you need to remove the protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roof covering is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such a cut as “ Dragon tooth", There is no film, it is only important to select beautiful drawing or randomly stacked by mixing the shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways to install shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay out each separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: here it is important to do correct markup stingray and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Securing the shingles in the valleys

And now - about the most problematic parts of the roof. Hollows, namely the internal bends of the roof, you can organize in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing then is to make a triangular rail at the joints of the roof with the wall and start shingles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bituminous primer. The upper part of the abutment must then be closed with a metal apron, which must be fixed and brought into the grooves, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and backbone tiles

Next, let's figure out the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary. By the way, backbone shingles are obtained when the ridge-eaves are divided into three parts, or cut out from the usual ordinary perforation method.

In order to properly lay the backbone shingles, use a cord to beat off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two strips along it, and lay the backbone shingles from the bottom up. Then fix the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

Ridge tiles are laid on the side that is opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Further - everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat there with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here, ordinary tiles should be cut so that a distance of 3 to 5 mm remains between adjacent slopes:

Here's another great workshop where you can look at the details of the process:

And finally, finishing work. The installation of flexible tiles is always completed with the installation of a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut out along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with a special ridge tile.

Also, for a soft roof, special additional elements- these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called "skirts". And so that snow does not accumulate behind the ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross-section exceeds 50x50 cm, it is necessary to organize a groove. In short, you need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and all that remains is to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, using a soft brush, sweep all the small debris from the roof off the leaves and branches. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean your gutters and funnels from time to time.

Fortunately, a shingle roof is highly maintainable: just warm up the damaged area, remove it, and install new tiles. Business of one day!

A reliable, but at the same time inexpensive roof is the dream of, perhaps, every home owner. Bituminous shingles have these characteristics. So that in the end you get a high-quality coating, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the technology of its installation. Having completed the installation of flexible shingles with your own hands, you will significantly save costs. High-quality styling is the key to the durability of the coating.

Installation actions consist of several stages. These include the installation of the base under the roof, then the lining layer is laid, the cornices, valleys and end parts are installed, and the junction is installed. At the final stage, flexible shingles are installed on the ridge. All these points will be described in more detail in this article.

Bituminous shingles are relatively lightweight and affordable. Due to the lightness of the shingles, you will have the opportunity to make a lightweight version of the foundation. You will get a not very massive house, and this, in turn, will allow you to save on building materials and payment for work.

Among the main advantages of this roofing material, the following are also worth noting:

High indicators of heat resistance, frost resistance and resistance to strong winds.
High tolerance to sudden temperature changes.
Resistant to atmospheric precipitation.
The color does not change over time.

Before laying the tiles, prepare the base for it. It is placed on top of the frame, which can be solid or lattice. As a rule, the base for shingles is made of wood. The lattice frame is best made of 20–25 mm planed coniferous planks. To make a solid basis, moisture-resistant chipboard or plywood, sheet piling and edged boards will fit. They are attached to the rafters with screws / nails.

Between separate elements a few millimeters should be left in the lathing process. This is due to the fact that when the wood is dried, it will be necessary to compensate for its expansion. This moment can only be missed if the material has been previously subjected to technical drying.

To increase the service life of all wood elements, they must be impregnated with an antiseptic before installation. To carry out the installation of the roof as accurately as possible, you must first calculate the installation distance of the rafters and the thickness of the board used for the frame. For example, if the installation interval is 60 cm, then you need to take a board that has a thickness of 20 mm. Accordingly, if 90 cm, then the thickness increases by 3 mm, etc.

Ventilation of a soft-tiled roof is usually equipped with a ridge. It fits on a ribbed profile. If bandwidth the ridge is not enough, then installation of ventilation elements on the roof surface should be carried out. This is a kind of profile with ribs that are located at a distance of 2 cm from each other. The ventilation elements are fixed with nails to the base of the roof after the shingles are fixed.

Waterproofing is designed to protect the house from leaking shingles. If the slope is 18º and more, the insulating material should be located parallel to the eaves and roof ends. Why? The fact is that in these places there is a high risk of leakage. In view of this, it is important to lay the waterproofing at least 40 cm from the edge. In addition, the ridge should be waterproofed. Installation of insulation material should be carried out 25 cm on each side of the ridge.

If the slope of the roof is 12–18º, then another underlay must be laid over its entire surface. In this case, work must begin from the bottom up. Tile layers are overlapped. The waterproofing is fastened with nails, which should have a cap size larger than the usual one with a galvanized surface. The frequency of nailing is every 20 cm.

Installation of cornice, end pieces and valley

Use metal strips to reinforce the edges of the roof. They are stuffed on top of the backing layer on the eaves and ends. In this case, roofing nails should be used (nail spacing 12 cm). Then the self-adhesive tiles are laid. Protective film before gluing it must be removed. Then, end-to-end to each other, it is glued along the eaves, and then fixed with nails.

A carpet specially designed for this is laid in the valley. It needs to be secured on both sides. Then you need to smear it along the edge with bituminous mastic.

To carry out the installation of the upper layer of bituminous tiles, a bitumen-polymer material should be used. With its help, a continuous coating with high elasticity is created. It can withstand mechanical and thermal deformations of the roof base. In accordance with the regulations, hot and cold mastics should be used for laying soft roofs.

Cold mastics are used to treat the inner layers of the roof. Their hot counterparts are used as an outer coating. Among the cold mastics are bitumen and roofing felt, and hot - only and tar. The mastic should contain a dusty mixture. It can be ash, gypsum or lime.

You can make this material yourself or purchase a ready-made analogue. To make mastic, you need bitumen and filler. The percentage of bitumen should be about 80%, and accordingly filler - 20%. To obtain cold buteprol, you need to take 1 part of diesel fuel for 2 parts of bitumen. At the same time, the bitumen heats up to 180º, while the filler and diesel fuel settle in a different place. After evaporation of water in bitumen, both compositions are combined with each other. This instruction will help you make your own cold mastic.

To prepare hot mastic, you need an electric stove. Bitumen should be brought to a temperature of 200º by slowly adding filler to it. It is important that the composition does not cool down by more than 160º.

To check the quality of the mastic, it should be laid at an angle of 45º. To do this, it must be preheated to 60º. So, if the coating runs off, then it is of poor quality. If it does not drain, then you still need to let it dry. If cracks do not appear, then you managed to make high-quality mastic.

To prevent the roof from having a different shade, you need to use several packages of tiles at once. The color, of course, will not be the same, but at least it will be uniform. Work starts from the middle of the ramp. Tile tiles should be laid in vertical rows. Move from the center to the fronts. It is important to keep an eye on the gap, which should be 2–3 cm between the edge of the shingles and the eaves. It is important to verify this moment when laying the first row. To form an attractive pattern, the edge of the second row of tiles must be trimmed. This is usually done in the center. If necessary, shingles can be cut along the edge of the eaves. It is also important that these trimmed edges are subsequently treated with bitumen glue. Glue a strip about 100 mm wide with glue.

Alternative fasteners should be provided for bituminous shingles. It must be attached to the crate with nails. This is done when laying adjacent rows. About five nails are nailed to one shingle. This is due to the fact that bituminous tiles will stick to each other and to the crate over time due to solar heat.

The roof usually has abutments, for example, to a pipe stove heating... There will be a gap in this place, as a result of which moisture will penetrate into the roof. To avoid this disadvantage, shingles must be properly attached. First, drive a rail into the junction of the pipe and roof. Then slide the shingles onto the rail and partly onto the pipe. Further on it, starting with the pipe, you need to lay the valley carpet so that it overlaps the pipe 300 mm higher from the roof surface. At the end, cover the lower part of the pipe with carpet and tiles with painted tin on all sides.

To prevent snow from accumulating behind the pipe during operation, you need to install a groove. So, melting snow / rainwater, when a gutter hits the slopes, will flow around the pipe, flowing down the roof.

When installing tiles on a ridge, ridge tiles are required. It is made with perforations dividing each element into 3 conventional parts. It must be laid with an overlap of 5–6 cm. This process must be carried out so that the tiles are parallel to the slope line. The short side of the tiles is parallel to the slope lines. It needs to be fastened with nails.

A roof made of flexible shingles can only be installed at a positive temperature, when the thermometer shows at least + 5 ° C. This is due to the peculiarities of the shingle (a sheet consisting of three to four tiles). It is attached to the lathing with nails or on a special self-adhesive layer. The fact is that the tightness soft roof provided by solar heat. Under its influence, the sheets are glued to the base and to each other. In cold weather, this will hardly be achieved, which means that the insulation will leave the best. On the ridge, you need to overlap, and in cold weather, the shingle becomes especially fragile.

It also happens that the roof of flexible shingles is forced to be installed in the winter. In such cases, the roofing material must be kept indoors with room temperature... If you still have questions on the topic, then you can get additional advice from our specialist.

Video

In the provided lesson, you will receive information on how to make a soft roof: