Overlapping between the first and second floor. Rules for creating a reliable floor in the attic in a private house Installing the floor between the first floor and the attic

Equipped attic in the house increases the living space and rationalizes it. After completing the insulation and finishing of the attic, it is used as a full-fledged living room. Special attention during the construction of the attic, it is worth paying attention to the arrangement of the floor, since the fundamental elements are laid during the construction process and the reliability and strength of the floor depend on what quality they are.

Attic floor

Features of the arrangement of the floor in the attic

The process of arranging the floor of the attic has some features:

• Despite the fact that the attic floor does not come into contact with cold external environment, it needs high-quality heat and sound insulation.
• The material for floor insulation should be light in weight so as not to weigh down the structure.
• The attic can be of different configurations, allowing you to open up new opportunities for the implementation of design ideas. Practice shows that it is cheaper to make a room from an attic than to build a full-fledged second floor, despite the cost of warming the room.
• Due to the variety of shapes and configurations of the design, the attic gives original look home.
• A high-quality floor depends on the quality of the materials for its manufacture and the technology of the process of its construction.
• When arranging the floor of log houses, the size of the crossbeams and rafter beams should be the same and make up a solid frame for attaching a Mauerlat to it.

House with living attic

The technology of arranging the floor of the attic, the main stages

Any building process consists of several stages and the arrangement of the floor is no exception. To obtain a quality foundation, it is necessary to think over the process in advance and draw up a project containing a drawing and calculations for the purchase of building materials.

Laying floor beams

In most cases, the beams are laid in specially prepared wall grooves. This option is used at the stage of building a house. In this case, install in this order:

• The wood is treated with special antiseptic agents that reduce the risk of rotting of the frame, protect the wood from damage by bark beetles and mold.
• After complete drying, trim the crossbars at an angle of 60 degrees. The edges are painted with bituminous mastic and wrapped with two layers of roofing material for waterproofing.
• Installation must begin with laying the extreme two crossbars. The distance from the wall should be no more than 5 cm.

Important! The logs are inserted into the grooves by an average of 10 cm, leaving a gap of no more than 3 cm.

• To control the horizontalness of the crossbars, an even bar is laid on top of the beams, on which a level lies on top.
• To align beams bubble level, special blades are used, which are placed in the grooves under the beam. They must be treated with bituminous paint.
• To eliminate the creaking of the crossbars and eliminate the passage of air, the gap is filled with tow or insulating wool.
• Having leveled the horizontalness of the base with the help of a control bar and a level, the remaining beams are laid relative to it. The technology of laying in the grooves is the same as the last two.
• Every 5th rung must be attached to the wall with anchors.

Laying technology

If the house is already ready, the floor beams can be fixed in another way.

• First of all, the logs are treated with antiseptic substances.
• Markings are made on the walls for the location of the crossbars.
• At the marked places, supports are fixed in the role of which clamps or corners act.
• Fastening with self-tapping screws.
• Having laid the logs on the supports, fixing is carried out using the same self-tapping screws.
• Having finished the crossbars, you can proceed to the arrangement of the floor.

Installation of cranial bars

• Cranial bars are used for laying boards on them, which are a rough base for the ceiling and floor. You can do without them if the rolling boards are attached directly to the beams from the bottom side. They are fastened with self-tapping screws, since hammering nails in a vertical position is difficult and inconvenient.
• From the attic, on both sides of the bars, along the edges, 5 * 5 cm cranial bars are nailed, they should be fixed in such a way that Bottom part passed flush with the bottom surface of the beams.

Laying boards

• Rolling boards are laid from the side of the attic. Laying them on the cranial bars, fixation is performed.
• When using cranial bars, the roll boards at the ends must have a stepped cavity to match the size of the cranial bar.

Important! The disadvantage of cranial bars is that they eat up part of the useful space between the crossbars, which could be used for laying insulation.

Installation of boards

Having made a draft floor, you can proceed to the insulation.

Laying vapor barrier materials

• Before laying the thermal insulation material, it is necessary to first lay the vapor barrier membrane.
• The vapor barrier membrane is laid over the crossbeams. It is attached to the beams with a construction stapler.
• The tapes overlap each other, not less than 10 cm, the joints are glued with adhesive tape.

Laying heat and sound insulating material

The main feature of insulating materials is their dense laying in relation to the beams. To insulate the attic floor in a private house with your own hands, the following materials are used:

• glass wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• felt and others.

In most cases, thermal insulation is carried out with mineral wool, as it has high thermal protection and moisture resistance. In addition, the material is environmentally friendly and does not affect human health. The only drawback is that insulation must be carried out during use, since the fibers easily penetrate into all kinds of cracks, causing discomfort to a person.

• Insulation is recommended to be laid in two layers, and if the laying was carried out tiled material, then when laying the second layer, close the seams of the previous one.
• To reduce noise, layers of sound insulator with a thickness of at least 5.5 mm are laid on top of the insulation.
• In the intervals between the crossbars, it is necessary to provide channels for communications.

Surface waterproofing

• After laying the insulation, waterproofing of the base is performed. To do this, a waterproofing film is laid on top of the insulating material. It prevents the passage of moisture from the outside, to the surface of the insulation.
• The membrane is laid in strips overlapping by 10–15 cm. To prevent moisture from entering through the joints, they are glued with adhesive tape.

Stages of floor installation

Subfloor fixing

Laying plywood or chipboard sheets can be done in two ways:

• The first method involves laying logs pre-treated with an antiseptic agent on the beams of the floors. The resulting space will serve as ventilation for the interior of the floor. Logs are also used if the logs of the beams do not have a very flat surface and in order to lay plywood, alignment is made using logs.

Having found the highest point, leveling actions are performed by placing wedges under them.

The lags are fastened with self-tapping screws, driving them at an angle of 45 degrees.

Having received a ready-made even frame, you can proceed to laying plywood or chipboard sheets.

• The second method involves laying plywood directly on the floor beams, using the same self-tapping screws for this. The step between the screws is 20–30 cm.

The scheme of the attic floor on the logs

Finishing

Finishing is the cladding of the surface with floor materials such as laminate, linoleum or other coatings, the choice of which depends on the purpose of using the room, whether it will be heated and on the design of the room.

In case the attic is wooden house will not be used as a living room, the subfloor can be left without finishing. But still, it is recommended to paint or at least prime the base to prevent destruction from exposure to adverse climatic conditions.

Video how to make the floor in the attic:

Tips on how to make the floor in the attic if the floor beams are weak

If upon purchase finished house and the desire to make a living room in the attic, the problem of weak overlap arises, experts recommend strengthening it. For this, the following methods are used:

• The beams are sheathed on both sides with plywood, 15–20 mm thick. Or metal sheets. This action will significantly increase the bearing capacity of the crossbars.
• The next way is to connect the beams to each other with blocks that are attached to the bottom of the crossbars.
• If there is no access for nailing boards from below, you can lay the beams by surprise, fastening them with special devices.
• One more effective way- nail the wire 6-8 mm along the beams in the form English letter V. Fix with bent nails.
• If the problem is long distance between the beams, then from the side of the walls on which the emphasis is placed, it is necessary to make jumpers attached to the ends of the crossbars. Lay cross bars on these jumpers.
• All amplification methods bearing capacity are carried out, having previously supported the beams from below.

Summing up, we can say that it is convenient to use the attic as a living space, the main thing is to equip the surfaces of the attic and perform high-quality insulation. The floor in the attic can be made directly on the floor beams, the main condition for obtaining a reliable foundation is to comply with the requirements of the installation technology.

Floor insulation is an important component of the thermal insulation of a house in the presence of an unheated attic (attic) or cellar. Its other task is to reduce the level of impact and airborne noise. It can be carried out from the side of a residential or "cold" room. When deciding how to insulate the interfloor ceiling, it is also important to take into account the design features and the premises (temperature and humidity conditions), the maximum allowable increase in the floor level.

In private buildings, interfloor structures are made of reinforced concrete slabs or wooden beams. Moreover, due to the ease of installation and low cost, the second option is much more popular. However, in both cases, additional interfloor insulation is required to ensure a decent level of thermal insulation.

The main purpose of the work depends on the location of the floor slab:

• ground floor floor- separates the living space and the unheated cellar. When deciding which insulation to choose, it is important to remember that it must act as a sealant, prevent dampness and cold from penetrating from below;
• between residential floors – the main role is to reduce the noise level;
• between the attic (unheated attic) and the living room– must prevent the loss of radiant energy.

Experts recommend insulating floors from the side of the floor or ceiling. The first option is simpler and allows for the installation of almost any thermal insulation option. In the case of work in a residential area, the second is easier to produce at the stage of construction or repair. In addition, strengthening the insulation on the ceiling is not always convenient. In this case, only plates or sprayed compositions can be used.

Most often, slab, bulk or sprayed (liquid) material is used as a heater for overlapping. Leading manufacturers also offer modern solution- insulating self-leveling floor.

The most common types of slab insulation include:

• mineral (basalt) wool- not combustible, just fits, inexpensive. It is able to muffle almost all noise. But mineral wool is sensitive to moisture (when wet, it loses its thermal performance). Also, when cutting and laying, dust can be released, which causes itching and irritation of the mucous membranes, so you should work in a respirator and overalls;
• styrofoam or styrofoam- has good performance at a low price. It is resistant to moisture, microorganisms (fungi, mold), many chemicals. Styrofoam is simply cut with an improvised tool. Its disadvantage is fragility, low mechanical strength;
• XPS is an improved version of foam, characterized by greater density and strength. It also has a higher thermal insulation index with a similar thickness. The disadvantages include not the best soundproofing characteristics.

Self-leveling floor technology

A modern solution on how to insulate the interfloor ceiling can be the arrangement of a warm self-leveling floor. The advantages of this option include:

• versatility - it is possible to insulate the interfloor ceiling from wood, reinforced concrete;
• obtaining a smooth surface without seams, which is ready for laying a decorative coating;
• good heat and sound insulation performance;
• incombustibility;
• filling in a short time;
• fast hardening;
• resistance to deformation - compression, stretching, bending;
• geometry stability during operation.

Among the disadvantages of an insulating underfloor heating, it is worth noting the relatively high cost and the complexity of self-application. To obtain a high-quality result, it is better to involve specialists in the work. Also, its thermal insulation performance is somewhat lower than that of other materials.

To insulate the ceilings between floors using self-leveling floor technology, it will not be necessary to carry out complex preparatory work. It is enough to remove all unnecessary elements, debris and dirt from the reinforced concrete surface. In the presence of exfoliating areas, it is better to remove them. In order to avoid overspending of the composition, it is important to worry in advance about the elimination of cracks, seams, etc. existing on the base. There should be no loose, loose floorboards on the wooden floor.

Application of compositions is allowed only on a dry surface. For better adhesion(adhesion) of a warm floor with a reinforced concrete base, it is recommended to carry out preliminary priming.

on wooden beam ceiling In order to avoid moisture accumulation inside the structure, a special lining paper is used as a separating layer.

If the insulating characteristics of the bulk material are not enough, then it can be combined with tiled thermal insulation for floors (polystyrene foam). In this case, the seams between the insulation mats must be additionally isolated. When laying a warm floor on a base in contact with the ground, additional waterproofing may be required. An insulating edge tape is attached to the bottom of the walls. To obtain a flat surface, the installation of beacons is recommended. uniform distribution composition and removal of air bubbles is easy to achieve with a spiked roller.

bulk material

Most wanted bulk heaters are expanded clay, perlite, granular foam, ecowool. Among the general positive characteristics It should be noted:

• excellent thermal and sound insulation performance;
• light weight;
• resistance to decay and decay.

Insulation of floor slabs between the attic and the first floor is carried out from the side of the floor. The space is covered with waterproofing. It will be enough to have a layer of polyethylene film laid with overlapping sheets of 10 cm. Expanded clay or other material is poured on it with a layer of up to 20 cm and leveled. In the case of a concrete floor, it is possible to fill with expanded clay concrete mortar.

The next stage of insulation of the interfloor overlapping of the first floor is re-waterproofing.

In the case of moisture-sensitive materials (expanded clay, sawdust), some experts recommend doing it in two layers: film + roofing material.

This guarantees the protection of the insulation from getting wet. Next is filling concrete screed or the draft floor is spreading.

Insulation of wooden floors between floors by spraying

Among the sprayed heaters, polyurethane foam is the most popular. It differs:

• good adhesion to different building materials– it is possible to isolate wooden structures and reinforced concrete beams overlaps;
• energy efficiency - the coefficient of thermal conductivity does not exceed 0.035 W / m K;
• safety in a frozen form - does not emit harmful substances, belongs to the group of slow-burning materials;
• moisture resistance;
• good soundproof performance;
• strength;
• inertia towards chemicals, fungi and mold;
• long service life.

Spraying PU foam is a simple process, but it requires the use of special equipment and the use of protective clothing and a mask. Preparatory stage includes cleaning and surface cleaning. Insulation can be applied from the side of the ceiling or floor. After complete hardening, the polyurethane foam is covered with boards and a facing coating is created.

Output

Proper insulation of interfloor ceilings guarantees a reduction in energy consumption and good sound insulation. The choice of material should be based on the features of the insulated structure, financial possibilities and personal preferences. Compliance with the installation technology is equally important.

Attic insulation from the inside has its own characteristics, this is due to the specifics of the room. An attic space with a complex structure and microclimate requires a competent approach to organizing a heat-insulating layer in order to avoid cold bridges, condensation and wetting of the insulation, as a result, fungi, mold, and freezing.

In the article we present step by step instructions, how to properly insulate the attic from the inside with your own hands, we will analyze what materials are best to use, how to calculate the thickness of the thermal insulation.

Warming scheme attic floor

General rules - how to insulate the attic floor

Insulation of the attic floor is a whole range of measures to make the room comfortable for living: it does not heat up in the summer and does not get cold in winter period and the relative humidity did not exceed the norm. Each part of the attic floor: floor, ceiling, slopes, fronts, is insulated according to its own technology. Here it is important to observe a few basic rules:

• The thickness of the insulation for the attic is 100-200 mm, which directly depends on the type of thermal insulation, the climate in the region and the choice of materials for the supporting structures of the attic floor. It is better to put 2 layers of 100 mm. It is desirable to select environmentally friendly, lightweight, non-flammable.
• Waterproofing is laid on top of thermal insulation, protects against condensate and precipitation, does not allow moisture to get inside the insulation from the roof side. This is very milestone insulation of the attic floor, which ensures the reliability and long service life of thermal insulation, otherwise, the accumulation of moisture inside the materials will lead to their destruction and freezing of the room. For the attic floor, the following types of waterproofing films are used: superdiffusion breathable, diffusion, anti-condensate.
• Vapor barrier in the insulation of the attic floor provides good air exchange, ventilation of the cake, and prevents the penetration of water vapor from the room into the materials.

Advice: On the attic floor, in addition to insulation, it is recommended to organize a ventilation system in order to ensure the necessary flow fresh air and the outflow of waste, stagnant, which will help to avoid dampness and mustiness of the room.

We offer helpful tips how to insulate the attic with your own hands, the video instruction will help you avoid mistakes when insulating the floor under the roof.

Detailed insulation technology

Do-it-yourself insulation of the attic from the inside takes place in several stages: floor, ceiling, if any, slopes, fronts. Thermal insulation of each structural element the attic floor has its own technological features, then we will deal in detail with the nuances of insulation.

The photo shows an example of how to make competent insulation of the attic floor

Attic floor insulation

The floor on the attic floor is essentially an interfloor overlap that separates the lower rooms from the roof. Accordingly, here are the main requirements for thermal insulation materials: light, but with effective heat saving, vapor permeable, with good sound insulation.

Floor insulation depends on design features overlap. If it is a concrete slab, it is advisable to organize a warm floor and perform a screed. Do not forget to stick a damper tape around the perimeter so that there is an opportunity for the natural expansion of materials. If the screed is more than 20 mm, it must be reinforced.

But more often, lags are arranged here, therefore, floor insulation is performed according to the following algorithm:

• we process the draft floor with antiseptics, 2 times;
• we mount waterproofing, a thick plastic film is suitable, sometimes roofing material bituminous mastic, especially at the wall / floor junction, overlapping joints of 100-150 mm, it is recommended to glue with adhesive tape or weld with a soldering iron;
• we lay a vapor barrier membrane, glassine, isospan are relevant here, we attach to the logs with a stapler, overlap joints;
• we put a heater between the lag: sheet of your choice, mineral wool, sawdust, bulk expanded clay, spraying with polyurethane foam, etc.
• close the insulation with the upper vapor barrier layer;
• we lay the subfloor: screed or wood flooring which is better to do with air gap- a crate of bars is stuffed perpendicular to the logs, treatment with antiseptics and fire-fighting preparations is mandatory;
• floor finishing.

Important: The edges of the material for hydro- and vapor barrier should go on the wall by 100-150 mm.

Floor insulation on the logs on the attic floor

Ceiling insulation

The ceiling in the attic floor is extremely rare, but if you are faced with just such a design option, then it also needs to be insulated. To begin with, a vapor barrier film is stretched, at a height of 150-250 mm higher than you plan to make the ceiling. Further, it is necessary to assemble a crate from bars or a galvanized metal profile, the optimal distance between the longitudinal profile is 500-600 mm, while the transverse one is fastened every 400-500 mm. If there are transverse beams on the attic floor under the ceiling, then the material for insulation can be placed on them.

Insulation is laid inside the crate, soft plates are relevant here, which are insignificant in weight, for example, mineral wool. It must be pushed between the crate, leveled, fit tightly the joints between the plates. Stuffed over the frame vapor barrier membrane, which will protect the insulation from moisture from the room. After which the ceiling is hemmed sheet material: drywall, OSB, chipboard, plywood or clapboard, blockhouse, timber, the choice depends on the style of the room.

Lathing of the ceiling, slope and gable of the attic floor for subsequent insulation

How best to insulate the walls of the floor under the roof

The walls of the attic floor can be divided into side walls (a small flat area that turns into a roof slope) and gables - end bearing structures. The order of the layers of thermal insulation does not change here, but the insulation has its own installation features. At the first stage, waterproofing is stuffed, it is better to fix it with bars 25-50 mm thick in order to leave a technological gap between the walls (roof) and the insulation.

Good to know: If the roof of the attic floor is made of wavy material, then a ventilation gap of 25 mm is sufficient, if it is made of smooth, then it is recommended to leave a gap of 50 mm.

Insulation sheets are laid on top of the bars so that the attic is not cold, it is recommended to use 2 layers of thermal insulation, each 100 mm. It is advisable to do the insulation of the walls of the floor using a combined method. The first row of thermal insulation is laid tightly between the rafters or gable beams. We cut the sheets to size and push.

Between the layers of insulation we also leave ventilation gap, if the rafters are thinner, then the bars are additionally stuffed on them, and we already put the second layer on them. The sheets should fit tightly to each other, it is desirable to glue the gaps on top with adhesive tape. Then we cover everything with a vapor barrier, for the insulation of the walls of the attic floor, a foil membrane is optimal, with the metallized side inside the room. We nail it with a stapler, glue the joints and you can sheathe the attic floor with a finish.

Insulation of the gable of the attic floor

What insulation to choose for the attic

If you choose which insulation is best for the attic, then here you need to provide several criteria at once: resistance to physical, mechanical and chemical influences, environmental friendliness, fire safety, material weight, heat capacity, installation method and the financial side of the issue. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of several popular materials for insulating the attic floor.

Materials for floor insulation under a sloping roof

Important: For high-quality insulation of the attic floor, it is recommended to use heaters with a thermal conductivity coefficient below 0.05 W / m * K.

Do-it-yourself attic insulation, video, what are the advantages of thermal insulation with rockwool material.

Styrofoam

Attic foam insulation is budgetary, easy to install, so the material is very popular for thermal insulation. Among the shortcomings - low vapor permeability and flammability. Over time, with drying truss system the insulation of the attic with foam plastic is nullified, the reviews say that gaps appear between the sheets and beams, and as a result, drafts.

Watch the video on how the attic is insulated with foam plastic, the video demonstrates step by step process installation of thermal insulation.

Polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is a more advanced material compared to polystyrene, the plates are easy to use, they are not afraid of moisture and rodents, the joints between the sheets are very tight, which avoids cold bridges. But extruded polystyrene foam, like polystyrene, deforms when exposed to ultraviolet radiation, is flammable, so they are not recommended to insulate the attic floors of a wooden house.

The video tells in detail how to insulate the attic, the video will help to properly perform thermal insulation.

PPU

If you ask a question to specialists, the better it is to insulate the attic from the inside, then many of them will advise spraying PPU. Of course, one cannot do without special technology and equipment, but the thermal insulation is strong, durable, without joints. This is a kind of thermos that provides a comfortable indoor climate. Insulation of the attic with polyurethane foam, the reviews of the physical and mechanical properties of which are the best, also has significant drawbacks, such a pie is afraid of esters, high temperature acids.

Watch the work of specialists on how the attic is insulated, the video demonstrates in detail the method of spraying.

Mineral wool

Insulation of the attic floor with stone (basalt) mineral wool meets all the standards of competent thermal insulation. Mineral wool is moisture resistant, non-combustible, has high soundproofing characteristics, which is especially important if the roof is made of “noisy” material. The material is elastic, easy to install, expands, fills the voids between the beams and holds well even on sloped areas.

Ecowool

Ecowool is specially processed cellulose, environmentally friendly, has high heat and noise insulation, vapor permeable, resistant to moisture, fireproof, harmful microorganisms do not start in it - perfect option for underfloor insulation. The material is crushed, it looks like flakes, which are applied to the surface with the help of special equipment, which makes it difficult to install with your own hands. Attic insulation with ecowool is a seamless technology that allows you to make high-quality thermal insulation and maintain a comfortable temperature even on an unheated attic floor.

Of course, 100-200 mm of insulation is the recommended layer thickness. The real one may differ, the calculation is recommended to be done for each region and directly depends on the type bearing walls and from the thermal conductivity of the insulation. Proper insulation significantly reduces energy costs for heating and air conditioning a home.

I answer in order:

1. By fixing the heater. (sections 1-2 and 6-7) There you have horizontal surface, I understand correctly? Therefore, you just need to level the sawdust and just "just put a heater on top" :-), without fixing it in any way. The insulation will lie freely on top of the sawdust.

Will sawdust get wet when epps is insulated(and polystyrene, they are almost the same in terms of vapor permeability). Look, here's how it turns out: now, you have wet warm air from the room below. Indeed, if we lay epps or polystyrene on top (they are practically vapor-permeable), then we "close" the exit to moist air. Of course, the insulation layer is leaky, the material (both polystyrene and eps) will be laid in two layers, there are joints between the plates, air can escape through these joints. But leaky joints are additional heat losses. With all this in mind, it's best (if possible) to get the sawdust out, put vapor barrier film , then put sawdust, then put epps or polystyrene and glue the joints of the plates with tape. Them (epps and foam) you can't cover the top, they do not absorb moisture, that is, even if under the roof there will be wet air- it's not scary.

If we insulate with cotton wool. The process of passing warm moist air through the ceiling occurs in the same way as described above: the air passes through the sawdust, then it passes through the cotton wool (it is vapor-permeable) and exits into the under-roof space. It seems that everything is not bad, but in this case I am confused by this "free passage" of moist air. Let me elaborate: when brick wall they are insulated with cotton wool from the outside, plastered from above, for example, then moist air also freely (there is no vapor barrier in such a wall) passes through the wall. The wall, even within the framework of one day, manages to get a little wet many times - and completely dry - and this is completely normal. In your case, we do not have a wall, but a ceiling, where both sawdust and cotton wool are vapor-permeable. I'm afraid that "a little wet" they will not dry completely (like a wall), since there is no direct access to the sun and outside air. Therefore (sorry for being so long, I can’t explain otherwise :-)), in case of wool insulation, it is better to do this: remove sawdust, lay a vapor barrier film, put sawdust, put cotton wool, from above, on cotton wool - a vapor-permeable superdiffusion membrane(with a vapor permeability of 1000 g / m2 per day and above). The membrane can be placed directly on the cotton wool.

Note. I understand correctly that you do not currently have any under-roofing waterproofing? Just galvanizing and that's it, no film, no roofing material? It's just that if there was some kind of waterproofing, then it would not be necessary to cover the cotton wool with a membrane. And further. Galvanized roofing is reliable, I do not argue, but in the event of even a small leak, without roofing waterproofing, - water will start to penetrate the wall (where the roof meets the wall) and the wall will start to get wet.

2. Is it necessary to remove sawdust from the ceiling above the attic (section 3-5). With any insulation (both wool, and eps, and polystyrene foam), it is better to remove sawdust, put a vapor barrier film, then sawdust, then insulation. Only cotton wool - cover with a membrane (as in sections 1-2 and 6-7, I describe above), and foam or eps - you can not cover.

3. What is a special mineral wool for plaster. Positions mineral wool differ in density and scope. You, if you decide to insulate the pediment from a bar with cotton wool, and plaster on top, you need a position of mineral wool with a density of 135 kg / m3 and above. The material must be intended for external plastering works, this must be specified at the time of purchase.

It is possible, having warmed up, not to plaster over the insulation, but to sew up the insulation with lining. Then you need to use cotton wool (you can have a mineral density of 45-50 kg \ m3, you can use fiberglass, a density of 14 kg \ m3), mount a windproof superdiffusion membrane on top of the wool (with a vapor permeability of 1000 g \ m2 per day and above), then lining ( siding, lining, etc.).

4. Yes, you got it right. If you further insulate the first floor, then you can use the numbers for the second floor.

Insulation of the interfloor ceiling wooden beams- a critical part of the work: it is required to create a barrier to the cold and reliable sound insulation of the premises, while preventing the possible formation of drafts and mold on the ceilings.

Thermal insulation is required for a bridging between a cold basement and ground floor living quarters or between living quarters and an unheated attic. Floors between living spaces need soundproofing, and therefore the approach to solving problems will be different.

How to insulate the interfloor overlap to eliminate drafts, dampness and mold? From the point of view of building thermal physics, the insulation of an interfloor ceiling along wooden beams will be competent when the thermal insulation is located on the cold air side.

The correct arrangement of layers in the floor structure repeats the principle of facade insulation: a vapor barrier is placed on the side of cold air inlet, then a heater, another vapor barrier, then a slab or other supporting structure. The arrangement of the layers must ensure the release of water vapor to the outside.

But when it comes to specific wooden structures in a private house, there are difficulties of a constructive nature.

When insulating the attic floor, there are two of them: thermal insulation, sound insulation and waterproofing of the structure are required at the same time. In addition, it will be necessary to walk on the floor for periodic inspection and repairs of the roof. The "pie" of the interfloor overlap in this case will look like this:

1. A layer of material that can withstand occasional traffic.
2. Vapor permeable waterproofing.
3. Insulation.
4. Vapor barrier.
5. Basic structure.
6. Room ceiling.

Warming wooden floors above the cold basement requires the layers to be arranged in reverse order:

1. Clean floor.
2. Vapor barrier.
3. Insulation.
4. Vapor barrier.
5. Basic structure.

ATTENTION: In the absence of a basement and the presence of a ventilated underground under the house, which often happens during the installation pile foundations, the insulation from below must be protected with a moisture-windproof membrane.

In order to fulfill all these conditions, a competent choice of materials is necessary.

Material selection

Insulation of floors on wooden beams can be performed by any of the types of heat-insulating materials:

1. Bulk (slag, expanded clay gravel).
2. Monolithic laying (lightweight concrete - expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete, etc., foam).
3. Slab (plates and mats from various materials mineral and synthetic origin - from porous concrete "Velit", mineral wool, foam glass, expanded polystyrene).
4. Film.

In order to choose a heater, it is necessary to analyze their heat-insulating properties, volume weight And load-bearing structure the building itself.

As a rule, bulk and monolithic heaters with high thermal conductivity have an impressive weight and, in order to ensure the required resistance to heat transfer of external enclosing structures, a thickness of, for example, 0.5 m expanded clay concrete backfill will be required with a minimum volumetric weight of the material of 200 kg / m3, which is wooden beams may not endure. These heaters are more often chosen for interfloor ceilings according to concrete slabs in brick houses.

Materials that use most in demand for insulation - mineral wool slabs (from stone, basalt or glass wool) and expanded polystyrene. These materials have excellent characteristics:

• thermal conductivity indicators from 0.33 to 0.42 W / (m × K);
• low volumetric weight – from 10 kg/m3;
• low water absorption;
• high vapor permeability;
• compression density from 70 kPa.

These indicators indicate the following:

• insulation of interfloor ceilings along wooden beams will not require a thick layer of heat-insulating material;
• load-bearing structures will not be overloaded;
• the insulation, in the presence of proper vapor and waterproofing, will not accumulate moisture, which means it will last a long time and will
• save comfortable conditions in the House;
• during the repair will not collapse from the severity of the person.

No less important for the durability of the structure is the choice of vapor barrier materials. On the construction markets they offer a significant amount. Before buying, you need to find out how this material works, and in the case of multilayer membranes, which side it should be adjacent to the insulation.

IMPORTANT: Polyethylene films, due to their short service life, fragility and inelasticity, are unsuitable for use as vapor and waterproofing when insulating floors in a wooden house.

We warm the attic floor on wooden beams

Insulation of the attic floor on wooden beams can be done in several ways. The choice depends on the distance between the beams and financial capabilities.

First way

The floor plan using mineral wool boards is as follows:

Work algorithm:

1. Preparation of beams - impregnation with flame retardant and fungicide, if necessary, reinforcement.
2. Attach a layer of vapor barrier to the lower edge of the beams with a crate.
3. Lay a layer of soft insulation between the beams - mineral wool mats.
4. Lay the second layer of insulation on the upper edge of the floor beams - rigid mineral wool boards with a laminated surface that can withstand limited walking.
5. On the slabs, fuse a layer of waterproofing welded roofing material(Technoelast, Krovlyaelast, Bikrost or others) using a building hair dryer.
6. Fasten on the crate false ceiling(drywall, OSB, chipboard, lining, etc.).

Second way

Work algorithm:

1. Beam preparation.
2. Using the crate, we attach the vapor barrier to the beams.
3. We lay the first layer of thermal insulation.
4. We mount wooden logs along the beams.
5. Between the lags we lay the second layer of heat-insulating material.
6. We mount the flooring from moisture resistant chipboard boards, OSB or other material.

When laying the insulation plate, fix the foam on the mounting glue or glue. According to the second method, mineral wool boards can be replaced with polystyrene foam or foam plastic.

We insulate the ceiling of the first floor

Insulation of the floor in this case can also be done in several ways, the choice depends on the design features of the house. If there is a ventilated space under the ceiling, insulation can be performed according to the attic principle by changing the alternation of layers.

First way

Insulation of the floor of the first floor along the logs, with a cold underground, is as follows:

Work algorithm:

1. Beam preparation.
2. We fasten the cranial bar along the lower edge.
3. We fasten the black floor (boards, plywood, OSB, DSP, etc.) to the cranial bars with nails.
4. We lay a moisture-windproof membrane on top, attaching it to the beams through the counter rails.
5. We put a heater in the interbeam space.
6. Laying a clean floor.

Second way

The insulation of the floor above the cold basement differs from the previous method in small nuances, respectively, the algorithm for performing work does not change.

IMPORTANT: Before performing work, the tree must be protected from decay antiseptic impregnations and flame retardants for fire resistance.

Conclusion

Properly executed floor insulation between floors on wooden beams is guaranteed to ensure the comfort of housing, eliminate drafts and the formation of fungus and mold. All work will not be difficult to perform by any homeowner who knows how to use a drill and a building level.