Spraying the garden in the spring is one of the main agricultural activities. But, unfortunately, not everyone knows about this. Many homeowners are approaching this process in the spring, formally, not really thinking about the main essence of the agronomic procedure. In this case, spraying the garden in the spring can turn into a merciless and pointless exercise. Everyone probably understands a great desire to protect their garden from various diseases and pests. In conditions middle lane The fruit and berry harvest in Russia is constantly threatened by no less than 60-70 species of various insect pests, and about 20 types of infectious diseases. People have in their hands effective methods fight against them. But in this case, food and the environment can become dangerous for the person himself. Finding a balance is the main task of conducting spring works... In this article, we decided to tell you about how to spray the garden in early spring from diseases and pests. All the means that we will give here will be effective and, moreover, safe for the person himself.

Some extremes at the time of spraying

Refusal to process.

It should be admitted that the complete absence of large preventive irrigation is far from the worst option. Naturally, this will turn out to be more reasonable than excessiveness.

• You can relax a little if your personal plot is still young and has not yet been able to accumulate many different harmful substances and organisms.
• In your garden, you can plant resistant and unpretentious varieties. There are apple trees without scab, without problem roses, gooseberries without spheroteka, black currants without red-headed aphids and mites, strawberries without gray rot.
• It is necessary to constantly carry out various agrotechnical works (pruning, thinning, deacidification, digging, mulching, applying fertilizers to the soil, setting traps, etc.)
• It is very useful from the onset of spring to the beginning of autumn to spray trees with various simulators and biological preparations: Zircon, Gumi, Epin, Strobi biopesticides and Fitoferon, microbiological preparations such as Fitosparin.
• Many supporters of organic farming may simply give up if large amounts of crops are constantly dying in their garden. In this case, there is only one way out: the search for a compromise, namely, causing the minimum harm while obtaining the maximum benefit. It is necessary to reduce the number of diseases and pests, not forgetting about the environment.

Everything at once

How to spray the garden in the spring before blooming from everything? This question can be heard in every garden store in the spring. Even the simplest question from any sensible seller: Do you need a remedy for pests or diseases? May cause a stupor in the buyer. Of course, some seller can sell the coveted product, much to the delight of the buyer. As we can see, there will be two results. And they are both, unfortunately, disappointing:

• There is practically no effect from processing.
• The garden will accumulate poisons.

Despite any, at first glance, very convincing advertising and our employment, it is necessary to stop for a couple of minutes and try to face the truth: there is no one super-ideal drug and the timing of spraying the garden in the spring from pests and diseases.

Spring is a loose concept

In many gardening recommendations, it is necessary to divide the seasons into natural and calendar ones. For carrying out agrotechnical works, two main natural indicators are important (by different regions our country, the dates will differ by a month or more) - stages of development and air temperature in the garden in spring:

• Until the kidneys swell.
• Budding.
• Bloom.
• Green cone - the beginning of the appearance of leaves.
• Young ovaries.

Such a thing as - spring spraying, is very conditional, since there is no clear boundary between summer and in the spring... But still, you can define two important milestones: carrying out the processing of plants before the buds swell on them and the period after this event (when buds appear and leaves protrude).

When, how and what to spray the garden from diseases and pests

The earliest term is the dormant kidney phase. The very first spraying should be done in early spring when low temperatures in the garden (+3, +6 degrees, or slightly higher). But this must be done before the buds swell, while still on dormant plants. Almost everywhere there is a different rate of snow melting and the height of its cover. Yes, besides, cultures wake up after winter at different times. Based on this, sometimes it is not possible to meet one specific day. Quite early, honeysuckle and black currant begin to wake up from winter sleep. but as for strawberries, covered grapes and roses, these crops can long time be under the snow.

Plant exclusions.

Which ones exactly garden plants you do not need to spray during this period of time.

• Honeysuckle very rarely gets sick and practically does not suffer from pests.
• The same goes for blackberries.
• In the event that modern blackcurrant varieties are planted on your garden plot, which are not susceptible to kidney mites and powdery mildew, then there is no point in spraying in early spring.
• It is not necessary to spray with fungicides also those varieties of gooseberries that endure the spheroteka.
• On many household plots sea ​​buckthorn is also not susceptible to diseases.
• If your pears do not appear in the garden every year serious problems, then they also do not need to be processed.
• If your garden has had good and prosperous years before, then you will not need protection from diseases for those apple varieties that have resistance to moniliosis and immunity to scab.

Many perennial flowers and ornamental shrubs an individual approach is required.

One of the most important points is the definition of a number of problem-free plants that do not require additional care: for a person - saving his personal time, money and effort. And most importantly, the benefit environment... The chemical treatment of the garden must be carried out at a real risk.

Spray coverage area

In this article, you can also find out about when to spray the garden from pests in the spring. Until the buds swell, fruit trees and berry plants(gooseberry, plum, strawberry, raspberry, cherry, cherry plum, sweet cherry, apricot, peach and grapes), flower beds and a rose garden. In a given period of time, this impact will mainly be directed to protection against various diseases, and partly to pests that are still sleeping at this time.

What to Treat: Best Spraying Techniques

Hot water.

After bringing a bucket of water to a boil, you must immediately pour it into a watering can and water the bushes of blackberries and currants of any color. This procedure can partially eliminate some types of wintering diseases and pests. Water, with a temperature of +65 degrees, must be poured from a watering can on strawberry bushes.

"Blue Spray": Bordeaux liquid.

This event is very old. It was invented almost two centuries ago. But to this day, it is the most effective and useful. It is directed against almost all bacterial and fungal infections on the soil surface and on all crops. This procedure is carried out using a strong Bordeaux liquid (at a concentration of about 3% (but not one percent, as in green foliage). In the instructions for this drug, you can find a discrepancy in the ratio of copper sulfate and lime in solution. This is due to the fact that the original recipe used quicklime... And currently they use slaked (or calcium hydroxide). And the latter requires much more. After you have purchased Bordeaux mixture, it is better to follow the enclosed instructions clearly. In the event that this instruction says about the preparation of a one percent solution. As for the three percent, in this case it is necessary to reduce the amount of water by three times. If you purchase the necessary ingredients yourself, you should take 100 grams for 3 liters of water. quicklime and copper sulfate. An alternative to this drug is burgundy liquid. The solution must be prepared in the same way as the Bordeaux liquid, only soda (baking soda or soda ash) must be used for the place of lime. V rare cases, you should add a spoonful of sugar or soap. In addition, there is an option where the soda is replaced ammonia or mustard powder. Next, you need to give the resulting mixture a little browning. After this, processing should be carried out immediately.

The drug is 30+.

The official manufacturer is NPF Sober. This drug is a liquid paraffin, which was previously used to combat the scabbard in early spring in the Krasnodar Territory. As a result, it turned out that this agent does not pose any danger to humans, but disrupts the respiration of insects that hibernate on the branches of trees and shrubs. After spraying in the spring, scale insects and other insects and their larvae that winter in the crowns die. One liter of this drug must be diluted in 2 buckets of water and then sprinkle the garden with the resulting solution, spending about one liter per bush and up to 5 liters per one a big tree... This product is very dangerous for bees.

More options for spring spraying

Not sure at what temperature you can spray your garden in spring? Then it's worth saying that they do it early autumn... In the spring, a strong solution of urea is also used (600 grams per bucket). Sometimes copper sulfate (50g) is added. Iron sulfate is also used for spraying. It is often used to combat moss and lichen, and also against diseases on roses, grapes, and fruit trees... One kg of ferrous sulfate must be dissolved in 20 liters of water.

The two products described above are very scorching. And many gardeners advise using them not in early spring, but late autumn... In addition, treatment with these drugs in the spring can delay budding in the garden for a week or two.

On a note! Many agronomists do not recommend using folk remedies such as diesel fuel, salt or kerosene. Particular attention must be paid to Nitrofen. This agent has long been recognized as a dangerous carcinogen. It was banned for use in most countries of the world, including our country.

Spraying at the stage of budding and bud extension

In order to find out how to spray the garden in the spring before bud break, you must carefully read this article. Here you can see a lot of interesting things for yourself. Now it is worth reporting on the spraying rules that apply at the stage of budding and bud formation. During this period of time, many people gradually wake up from hibernation. harmful organisms both small and large. If the spring is rainy and cool, then this will contribute to the development of various diseases. And if the weather is sunny and warm, then insects begin to appear.

Spraying against diseases (fungicides)

Copper preparations.

For a complete treatment it is not too late to use Bordeaux mixture - only at a concentration of 1%. Grapes, flowers, apple and pear trees, plums, cherries in early spring must be processed with HOM or Abiga-Peak.

Biologicals.

In the spring, many gardeners are engaged in carrying out the first two treatments, using drugs such as Alirin (fruit trees, strawberries), phytosporin (they process everything in a row), Fitolavin (apple trees). This group also includes such a tool as Strobi. The drug is a natural fungicide. applied on pear and apple at the beginning of its growing season.

Drug Prognosis (and other drugs with propiconazole).

Products of the same composition: Agrolekar, Forecast, Propy Plus, Chistoflor. These drugs are modern fungicides that are not very toxic. They process berries in the budding phase: raspberries, strawberries (from gray rot), gooseberries, currants.

Pure flower (and other drugs with difenoconazole).

Similar contents are presented by drugs such as Raek, Purest flower, Guardian, Skor, Discor, Planthenol. They are used on stone fruits and pome crops ah, and also on roses, and other flowers.

Topaz (penconazole).

In spring, Topaz is a prophylaxis against powdery mildew on flowers, gooseberries and currants.

Tiovit Jet.

This preparation protects currants, roses and apple trees from powdery mildew.

Horus.

It is used for processing grapes and all stone and pome crops. Not very dangerous for birds, bees and people.

Spraying against pests (insecticides)

In this phase, biological insecticides are practically useless: since during this period of time there are no caterpillars, no aphids, or spider mites... It makes sense to use the poison only if a large number of pests were observed in the past year (raspberry beetle, weevil, sea buckthorn fly, leaf rollers, moths, etc.). it is impossible to spray at the time of flowering.

Pyrethroid poisons.

These are Spark Double Effect, Inta-Vir, Decis, Kinmiks.

Organophosphorus poison (malathion).

This is Iskra M, Fufanon, Karbofos.

Double poisons.

This is Inta-TsM, Alatar,

Copper preparations are advised to be used separately. And the rest of the fungicides can be mixed with pesticides.

Finally

Today, thanks to this article, you were able to find out how to spray trees in the garden in spring. We hope that these activities will be able to protect your garden from all sorts of pests and diseases. As a result of these activities, your garden will be able to bring you a rich harvest of delicious fruits.

It is necessary to spray trees for the first time in March, when the snow has practically melted, and outside temperature reached + 5 ° С.

Do not forget that along with the release of insects from hibernation, buds begin to swell on the trees. This suggests that it is impossible to use highly concentrated solutions for spraying, since leaves that do not have time to bloom can be damaged.

After finishing preparatory work move on to the choice of means for the extermination of rodents, and also decide what concentration it will be.

For early processing use more concentrated sprayers to kill the larvae deep under the bark. However, it is better not to use a strong concentration, even if the leaves have not yet blossomed on the trees. The tree may die, or burns will appear on the trunks.

The second time to process trees is necessary in mid or late April. This is the period of flowering of pears and apple trees. There is no need to remove the bark this time. The main thing is to protect the inflorescences that bloom during this period. It is not necessary to dilute the product in the same proportion as before. Blooms may die. Instead, use a concentration that is several times lower.

The last time you need to spray the trees is in mid-May. For spraying, the same drug is used, in the same concentration as a fortnight ago. The growth results are compared. To do this, take leaves from different trees and see how much longer they get. If there is no result, then the second spraying did not work. You can also compare the length of the branches. The absence of changes means that your beloved apple tree continues to be destroyed by pests.

To avoid problems, you need to spray tree trunks in the morning or evening, when there is no wind outside. Check the weather forecast in advance, otherwise the rain can wash off all the sprayed preparations, even before they penetrate the bark of the tree in the right amount.

Pests that have wintered in fallen leaves become very active with the onset of the first warm days. At this time, the buds also open. They are just a delicacy for them. Insects can destroy not only buds, but also flowers with buds. At the most favorable time for the activity of insects, you can lose the entire crop.

Spraying preparations are bought in specialized stores, or they are made independently. If there are few pests, then the following are ideal for dealing with them:

• Hemp;
• Hot pepper, chilli;
• Nightshade.

They will help eliminate beetles from the bark and leaves of the tree.

If hawthorns or apple suckers dominate among insects, then it is necessary to spray the trees with tansy, dandelion, onions, celandine and even tobacco. Plants can be used crushed. They can pollinate plants after watering or past rain, or you can prepare decoctions from them and spray them with them.

How to prepare a pest repellent?

Tansy

Cooking method:

Take 700 grams of tansy powder and cover with ten liters of water. Let the resulting solution brew for two days. Then boil the resulting mixture for 25 minutes, strain through a strainer, and add ten liters of water again. With this solution, trees can be treated three to four times.

Capsicum for killing butterfly caterpillars

Take one kilogram of pods, pour ten liters of water, leave for two days, then boil the infusion for sixty minutes, and again leave for two days. Pour the concentrate into bottles and seal them tightly. It can be used all season, while adding 80 grams to every ten liters of water. laundry soap.

If there are too many insects, then drugs such as chlorophos, nitrafen, karbofos are used to spray trees. Their use is especially effective for protecting buds.

Spraying is also used to fight disease. One of the most dangerous diseases trees - fungal. The causative agent of the disease hibernates on fallen leaves, after which spores form on it. When there are many spores, they can stick to trees with water droplets and germinate. As a result, a mycelium is formed. Fruits affected by a fungal disease may crack, and spots of gray-black color appear on them.

Until the buds begin to bloom, the soil and trees are sprayed with a sufficient amount of nitrafen.

To get rid of the scab, use a 5% urea solution. You can carry out an operation to destroy pests, both in the spring and in the fall.

If the tree has suffered from black cancer, as a result of which it may die, or not yield a crop, fungicides are used, while cutting out the damaged areas. The most dangerous form of this type of disease is a lesion of the bark, which is expressed in the form of depressed spots of a brown-violet color.

In order for the bark, branches and soil to be moistened and saturated with the solution as much as possible, it is necessary to use fine sprayers. Large drops easily roll off the tree. As a result, the spray effect is reduced.

The following solution can give qualitative results:

300 grams of lime and copper sulfate must be diluted with ten liters of water. Insist and boil in the ways described above. Spraying with the resulting solution is done in early spring, during the period of the first tree care, when the buds have not yet blossomed on them.

During repeated processing - when the leaves begin to fall off, it is necessary to prepare the following solution: dilute one hundred grams of copper sulfate and the same amount of lime with ten liters of water. Repeat the previous manipulations.

In addition, you can use nitrafen, two hundred grams of which are diluted with ten liters of water. It is impossible to abuse the solution.

Use of the drug 30B

The first spring spraying is carried out before bud break, when the temperature reaches + 4C.

The dose of the drug, depending on the type of shrub:

• 300 milliliters per ten liters of water when spraying currants, gooseberries and raspberries;
• 350 milliliters of the drug per ten liters of water, for spraying plums, apples, pears and cherries;
• 350 milliliters per ten liters of citrus care water;
• 400 milliliters per ten liters of water for pest control of shrubs and ornamental trees;
• 170/300 milliliters per ten liters of water for spraying the vines.

The drug is compatible with many chemicals, which makes its use especially relevant and practically irreplaceable.

To achieve maximum effect from the use of toxic drugs is possible, having at hand a clearly developed plan of protective measures for each group of fruit, berry and vegetable plants... This allows the number of treatments to be reduced to a minimum.

Processing and spraying apple and pear:

1. . Removal and burning of nests of goldtail and hawthorn, dry mummified fruits. Pruning of dried, damaged and diseased shoots and branches, as well as twigs with egg-laying ringed silkworm.

2. At the beginning of bud break (green cone)... Against the scab, "blue spraying" is carried out with a 3% Bordeaux liquid. At temperatures no higher than +10, weevils are shaken off the branches onto the litter, followed by their destruction. This operation is performed 2-3 times. Against the flower beetle, treatment is carried out with one of the insecticides permitted in the region: fastak (1.5 ml), fufanon (10 ml), ZOV preparation (300-400 ml), calypso (2 ml), Aktara (1.2-1, 6 d), etc.

3. The beginning of budding(extension of inflorescences). Treat against diseases, if the "blue spraying" has not been carried out. They use copper-containing preparations medex (100 g), medex-M (100 g), as well as speed, strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g), abiga-peak (40-50 g). Insecticides novaktion (13 ml), sumithion (16 ml), fastak (1.5-2 ml), fufanon (10 ml) and decoctions or infusions of plants are treated against aphids, suckers, ticks.

The indicated doses of drugs are dissolved in 10 liters of water and sprayed (2-5 liters of solution per tree).

On a note

Fruit trees (pome and stone fruit), as well as gooseberries and currants can be treated with chemicals before and after flowering. But no later than 20-30 days before harvesting, as well as after harvesting fruits and berries. Raspberries, strawberries and strawberries - only before flowering and after harvest. Cabbage - no later than 20 days before cutting heads, radishes - only at seedlings. Chemical processing of green and spicy crops, in which the ground part is consumed, is not allowed at all.

4. Immediately after flowering.

Treatment is carried out against spots, powdery mildew, scab with fungicides topsin-M (10 g), flint (1.5 g), extra median (20 ml), strobe, strike (1.5-2 ml), chorus (3 g) , abiga-peak (40-50 g), etc. Remove the nests with caterpillars of apple moth and ringed silkworm, shake off fruit ovaries damaged by the apple fruit sawfly onto the litter. If necessary, trees are treated with vertimek insecticide (3-5 ml per 10 l of water) or with drugs no vaktion, sumition, fastak, fufanon, aktara against suckers, sawflies, aphids, ticks, moths. A pear infected with gall mites is treated with colloidal sulfur. Trapping belts are applied to the trunks and skeletal branches. In the southern regions, where the codling moth gives two generations, the hunting belts are examined every 7-10 days, and in the northern ones - at the end of the season.

5. 10 days after flowering... Spraying the garden against scab in rainy years with phytosporin-M (20 g of powder or 15 ml of a liquid preparation per 10 liters of water for treating 100 square meters of garden area) or fungicides from item 4.

6. 2-2.5 weeks after the end of flowering on late varieties of apple and pear... If necessary, treatment is carried out against caterpillars of the apple and pear moths of the first generation, leaf beetles and against scab with the above insecticides and fungicides

7.14-18 days after the previous treatment on late varieties... If necessary, trees are sprayed again against moths, leaf rollers, ticks, aphids and scab.

8.Two treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying winter varieties against the same pests, scab and fruit rot with one of the above fungicides and insecticides. Every evening, a wormy carrion is collected, as well as fruits affected by fruit rot. They are buried to a depth of at least 50 cm.

9. Autumn period before frost... Before the beginning of leaf fall, trees are treated with a 5-7% urea solution. Fallen leaves are raked and removed from the garden (into compost; if they are affected by scab, then it is better to burn them). Digging trunk circles... They clean and destroy old dead bark from trunks and skeletal branches.

Whitewash is carried out with a special garden whitewash or paint. These activities are against the moth, sunburn and rodents.

Processing and spraying of plums, cherry-plums

1 .Early spring before bud break... Pruning and destruction of dried and damaged by pests and diseases of branches, cleaning of old, dead bark on boles and skeletal branches of trees, removal and burning of winter nests of pests and mummified fruits (if this work was not carried out in the autumn-winter period).

2. Swelling of the buds before they begin to bloom at a temperature not lower than +4 "C... Treatment with a 3% solution of Bordeaux liquid ("blue spraying") against diseases and insecticides (ZOV preparation (300-400 ml / 10 l of water) against wintering stages of ticks, aphids and other pests.

3. Before flowering (beginning of bud extension)... Spraying with one of the preparations - a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, abiga-peak (40-50 g), medex, medex-M, azophos, chorus, topsin-M, tersel - against clasterosporium disease, moniliosis and leaf spot. Against leaf-gnawing caterpillars, sawflies, aphids and ticks - with insecticides fufanon, novaktion, insegar, aktara, etc. (doses are indicated above).

4. 5-6 days after flowering... Shaking off on the litter and destruction of ovaries damaged by the larvae of fruit sawflies. Treating trees with insecticides and fungicides against a complex of pests and diseases (see point 4 in apple tree protection).

5. At the beginning of bone formation... Spraying with insecticides against the first generation plum moth at the beginning of caterpillar hatching, as well as aphids, ticks and other pests (insegar - 5 g, sumiti-on - 10-24 ml, aktar - 1.2-1.4 g, etc.).

6. Two same treatments with an interval of 14-18 days after the previous spraying late varieties carried out against the plum moth of the second generation, aphids and ticks in the regions of the Central Black Earth, Volga, North Caucasian and Far Eastern zones. Collection and destruction of fallen fruits when moths are found.

7. After harvest... Before leaf fall - spraying trees with 5% urea solution. Digging near-trunk circles, pruning branches, cleaning old dead bark on trunks and skeletal branches, raking and removing fallen leaves. Whitewashing trees.

Treatment and spraying of the garden from diseases and pests - sharing our experience

Anti-cancer engine oil

Gardeners often complain of fruit tree cancer. I do this: under the trunk I spread plastic wrap(so that the waste can then be collected and burned). I clean the cancerous wound with a sharp knife to healthy wood and treat it with iodine, and then lubricate the affected area with used car oil. I have been using this method for many years, including for the treatment of cracks, and I am very pleased with the result.

To increase winter hardiness and resistance of trees to cancer in August and early September, I introduce phosphate-potassium fertilizers... In early spring, when I do the pruning, I cover the places of the cuts. oil paint or garden pitch.

Vitriol will help

The second year pears are ill.

A neighbor planted a Cossack juniper, and he is a carrier of fungal diseases. Therefore, you have to pay Special attention anti-rust pear. I process trees in October copper sulfate(100 g per 10 liters of water) and urea (5-7%). Be sure to remove all the debris, fallen leaves.

Sometimes the bark of trees is covered with moss. In this case, after falling leaves, I first clean the trunk, and then treat the damaged area with a solution of copper sulfate.

Rust on the pear

Another important autumn procedure is the whitewashing of trees, with the exception of young plants. At the same time, I whiten not only the trunk, but, if possible, the branches - the higher the better. You can prepare the mixture in the old fashioned way: mix 2 kg of lime, 1 kg of clay and mullein, 250 g of copper sulfate in a bucket of water. But so that she is not "aggressive", I insist on her for 2 weeks.

Fruit misfortunes - expert opinion

Unfortunately, not a single orchard can avoid acquaintance with scab, monilial burn or coccomycosis. The consequences of these invasions are reflected in the harvest, and sometimes even lead to the death of trees. To be fully armed when trouble knocks on your garden, we offer you a list of the most common fruit misfortunes and methods of struggle.

In the past five years, in the Central region has spread monilial stone burn... This disease is caused by a fungus from the genus Monilia.

Its first signs can be seen in the spring. Suddenly, during flowering, the flowers, ovaries and leaves turn brown and dry. The trees look burnt. The infection persists in the bark of diseased shoots and affected fruits and can cause rapid (in a year or two) death of trees.

The main measures to combat this disease are the obligatory cutting of the affected branches, the treatment of the cuts with copper sulfate and subsequent putty with garden varnish, as well as treatment in early spring with 1% Bordeaux liquid, repetition of the treatment immediately after flowering and further treatment with Horus preparations (2 g per 10 l of water), "Topsin-M" (10 g per 10 l) and biological fungicide "Fitolavin" (20 ml per 10 l).

Causative agent coccomycosis in stone fruits, Coccomyces is the fungus. The signs of the disease are as follows: leaves of cherries and sweet cherries turn yellow and fall off, and before that, their upper side is covered with small red-brown spots. Coccomycosis often affects older varieties. To combat it, they use standard agricultural techniques for fruit - early spring blue spraying with further treatment with such systemic fungicides as "Skor", "Topsin-M" and "Topaz".

The infection persists in fallen leaves, so litter from affected plants must be removed and burned or buried to a depth of two shovel bayonets.

Clasterosporium disease, or perforated spot, affects plums, cherry plums, apricots and peaches. On store shelves, many have seen fruits with red-brown dots on the skin - these are signs of damage to this disease.

On the tree itself, it manifests itself in the form of red-brown or purple spots on leaves up to 5 mm in diameter, after a while holes form in their place (because of this, many confuse the disease with pest damage). Cracks appear on the bark of diseased trees, from which gum flows out. When pruning such plants, you should be especially careful, as the infection is transmitted through wounds. Be sure to disinfect work tools.

Purple raspberry speck, or didimella, is found in almost all private gardens. Signs can be seen starting in mid-June: purple spots appear on young shoots, which merge, and the whole Bottom part the shoot acquires a violet-blue color, brown spots with a yellow border are visible on the leaves. If these shoots are not cut out, but saved until next year, you can see that they dry out even at the beginning of the growing season and the yield on them is either absent or greatly reduced, and the berries are deformed and small.

The infection persists in the stems of diseased plants. Measures to combat this disease are cutting of affected shoots, early spring treatment with copper preparations and spraying during the growing season with such fungicides as Fundazol (10 g per 10 L) or Topaz (4 ml per 10 L).

And of course, we cannot fail to mention such a disease as pome crops scab... This is a well-known sore that affects almost all old varieties of apple trees and, to a lesser extent, pears. Currently, varieties have been bred that are immune to several races of scab at once. The disease is caused by the fungus Venturia and begins with the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, after which the affected leaves turn yellow and fall off. The fruit is also stained and the skin is often cracked. The disease progresses in wet cold springs and rainy summers. Preparations for the fight against scab - "Horus", "Skor", "Raek", "Strobi".

Expert advice

Many gardeners carry out pruning in the fall, since during this time of year manipulations in the garden are more accessible compared to the spring period, when it is more difficult to approach the trees due to snow. However, in the Central region with rather harsh and unpredictable winters, pruning in autumn period undesirable. It weakens the plants and reduces their chances of overwintering successfully. In addition, weakened plants are more susceptible to various diseases.

Below are other entries on the topic "Cottage and garden - do it yourself"

If the trees are not given due attention, even with excellent seedlings and varieties from the orchard, you can hardly wait good harvest... One of the most important maintenance activities is spraying fruit trees in the spring.

Timely and competently performed procedure:

• help build reliable protection from the mass of dangerous plant diseases;
• prevent the raids of insect pests;
• will create a reserve for future flowering and harvest.

One of the most important events, opening the new summer cottage season, is aimed at eliminating pests that are still hidden from the eyes of the gardener. Many of the worst enemies of fruit trees hibernate and develop within the bark, in the surface layer of the soil under the trees, and even inside the buds.

When in the spring is the treatment of fruit trees from pests most beneficial? To prevent the massive appearance of the army of insects, the first battle with it is carried out when the average daily temperature overcomes the barrier of +5 ° C, and the main snow cover disappears. It is impossible to give exact dates, because much depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and the conditions of a particular year.

Spring processing of fruit trees before bud opening

In most areas of the middle lane, preparation for spraying should begin in mid-March.

What is this preparation? Before starting the spring processing of fruit trees from pests:

• plants are examined for damaged and dead shoots, cracks and wounds in the bark, crushing branches and other problems;
• carry out the discovered dry shoots;
• carry out cleaning of trunks and skeletal branches from lichens and damaged over the winter, exfoliated bark;
• under trees and shrubs, they clean up last year's foliage and other debris in order to exclude the reproduction of soil pests and to carry out not only treatment from pests of fruit trees in the spring, but also to clean the trunks under the plantings.

All of these measures are aimed at reducing the risk of spreading infections from dead plant parts to healthy ones. Therefore, after sawdust and cleaning, all wound surfaces and cuts on bushes and in the spring, using a 1-3% solution of the substance in water. And only then the embedding is carried out with garden pitch.

How to spray fruit trees in spring?

The choice of drugs for pest and disease control today is so wide that when visiting a store it is difficult to navigate in colored packages. What products are suitable for spraying fruit trees in spring?

It can be recognized as the most popular remedy among Russian gardeners. Copper sulfate is a fungicide that successfully resists such common diseases of fruit trees and berry bushes as powdery mildew and scab. It can be used in any weather throughout the year.

To make the processing of fruit trees in spring with copper sulfate more effective, they prepare on its basis. For this, vitriol is mixed in equal proportions with slaked lime.

The resulting blue liquid not only has fungicidal properties, it:

• fights bacterial infections;
• helps to cope with separate types insects.

The spraying of fruit trees with iron sulfate, carried out in the spring, is also aimed at combating plant diseases, but at the same time it is used as a foliar feeding with an iron preparation. As in the case of copper sulfate, to achieve a lasting effect, two treatments of the garden with iron sulfate will be required.

In early spring, diesel fuel is effectively used to treat trees from pests hibernating under the bark. Forming a thin film that does not allow air to pass through, it is deposited on the surface of the bark and prevents insects from breathing. The effect usually occurs within a few hours. The larvae and eggs deposited in the kidneys and under the bark die without developing into an adult insect.

Spraying fruit trees in spring before and after flowering

The second stage of the attack on diseases and pests is carried out when the plants are preparing to bloom, the buds have already opened, and also at the stage of the appearance of the ovary. At this time, the main emphasis is placed on the extermination of pests, as well as consolidating the results of the fight against diseases and infections.

How to spray fruit trees in the spring in order to harvest a full-fledged healthy crop in the summer? Garden processing is carried out in two steps:

• when colored buds are just beginning to appear on the trees;
• when most of the petals fly around, and the first signs of an ovary become noticeable on the branches.

At this stage, complex insecticides are used in combination with fungicidal agents. In addition, you should pay attention to foliar treatment of trees or urea. Chemical drug perfectly copes with several tasks at the same time:

• fights most diseases of apple, pear and stone fruit, including all kinds of rot;
• destroys pests at the stage of eggs and pupae;
• is an nitrogen feeding simulating the growth of green mass.

In large gardens far beyond the residential property spring processing fruit trees from pests are carried out using the drug DNOC, which simultaneously acts against ticks, insects and pathogens.

The drug is toxic, so serious safety measures are required when using it. The treatment is carried out in very early spring or autumn when the plants show no signs of active growth.

Popular in recent times preparations of biological origin are good for the prevention of diseases. If the tree is already sick or affected by pests, such remedies, although they are safer for the plants and humans themselves, will not help much, and I may not even cope with the problem at all.

How is spraying of fruit trees carried out in spring?

How to spray garden plantings? How much solution may be required to irrigate a particular tree?

If you refer to the instructions attached to the funds chemical protection plants, there are always the proportions of the dilution of the drug, as well as the approximate consumption of liquid per square meter. But how to focus on these figures, when spraying of fruit trees in spring is carried out not only on the ground, but above all on the crown?

That is why it is extremely important to prepare a high-quality sprayer before the beginning of spring, which allows you to moisten the most inaccessible areas of the tree with the help of a directed jet. As a rule, a good apparatus saves chemicals, avoids wasted waste and provides a powerful, finely dispersed jet. A video about spraying fruit trees in spring will help you master the technique of proper selection of drugs and irrigation of plants. The treatment can be considered complete when the crown of a tree or shrub is soaked from all sides, the trunk and root area of ​​the soil has been processed, where insects can hide and fungal spores can winter.

Spraying fruit trees in early spring - video

What and when about sprinkle fruit trees in the garden in autumn? Quite often the reader asks this question.

In order for the wintering of trees to be successful, the gardener will need to protect their fruit trees from pests and diseases.Spraying the trees in the fall, you will keep them looking healthy and blooming throughout the next season.

Autumn spraying trees is an important factor in garden maintenance.Fruit processing trees carried out with the help of spray guns, while observing all safety rules, since later spraying carried out by pesticides. In view of this, each gardener needs to have a set of clothes for this procedure: gloves, a protective gown and a respirator.Spray preparationfruit trees in the fall, you need to select based on the existing diseases and pests, as well as whether this treatment is early or late. Since late autumn is usually rainy, it is necessary to wait for dry weather, in no case spray plantings before the rain, otherwise the rain will wash away the substance and the garden will remain unprotected or will not bring sufficient effect. The weather should be dry and calm.

Spraying trees in late autumn, they are performed just before the onset of winter. Of course, if there are plantations in the garden that are sick, the procedure is carried out outside the schedule.

With the onset of early autumn, the garden especially needs care and maintenance. So that fruit trees are resistant to winter and cold, in late November spraying they are also fertilized with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

For autumn spraying fruit trees it is good to use a solution of urea, with the calculation: for 10 liters of water 500-700 grams of urea. Interestingly, when spraying, you need to process both the tree itself and the area under it so that the entire infection is killed. Spraying should be fine and dusty. Such a procedure will reduce the risk of getting sick in the garden next year.

However, many gardeners are in a hurry and do serious mistake cultivating their garden in early autumn, when the trees have not yet lost all their leaves. Spray with such a solution, a garden, you can only achieve a burn and untimely fall of foliage. In this case, no effect will be achieved. As a result, the grower will receive a weakened, with a lack of useful nutrients a garden that can hardly survive the winter. A solution of this concentration is much more prudent to use in late autumn - in November.

In mid-autumn, in October, the base of branches and trunks must be whitewashed lime mortar, having previously cleaned them from the dead bark. As for young plantings, they are covered with a chalk solution. Apple trees and pears are protected from the invasion of rodents by tying the stems and bases of the skeletal branches. You can tie up fruit trees with matting or burlap using young cherry or nut branches. Some people use stockings.

Preparations for spraying trees .

inkstone it is applied for spraying plants and the soil under them before the beginning of the growing season or in the fall after the leaves have fallen, in order to combat diseases of pome and stone fruits fruit crops and berries (diseases of the trunk and branches, moniliosis, scab and other spots), grapes (anthracnose, bacterial cancer, spotted necrosis, mildew).

Urea is an effective measure for the destruction of leafworm caterpillars, aphids, honeydew and apple flower beetle. The effect of nitrogen spraying lasts about 2 weeks, therefore, after a while, it is recommended to repeat the spraying procedure.

Autumn treatment with a nitrogen solution should also take place with the participation of some kind of fungicide and include spraying not only the trees themselves, but also the soil under them. Fallen leaves should be subject to compulsory processing if they are not planned to be removed.

Urea can spray your garden, both in spring and autumn. Only in the fall is it important not to rush. If we start doing this before trees lose all their foliage, we run the risk of slowing their growth, as a result, they are more likely to freeze in winter. Concentration - 700 grams of substance per 10 liters of water - is optimal for both spring and autumn spraying. Spraying with urea will protect trees from aphids.

Spraying trees diesel fuel helps to achieve the complete destruction of the larvae due to the fact that the solution sprayed over the surface of the bark forms a homogeneous oily film on the surface of the branches and the pillar, which does not allow the larvae to breathe, as a result of which they suffocate as soon as possible after processing.

Since this petroleum product is not a fungicide, it can spray not only in early spring and late autumn, but throughout the entire flowering period of the fruit tree. Usually, it is bred according to one of the following recipes:

For 10 parts of water add 1 part of ferrous sulfate, then 10 parts of 10% milk of lime and only then 20 parts of diesel fuel. The resulting mixture will be 50% concentrated and is recommended for use before bud formation and after foliage has fallen.

5 parts of clay and 5 parts of water are mixed with 20 parts of fuel. The resulting solution has the same concentration as the previous one, but does not contain a fungicide and can be used during the period of fruit emergence.

Another option for obtaining a 50% solution for spraying- mix 9 parts of water with 1 part of laundry soap and 10 parts of diesel fuel.