Switches are the main devices for controlling lighting. The most common is a single one, but if you want to control several lamps from one place, two- and three-key ones are used. The photo below shows a three-gang switch with a socket.

Three-gang switch with socket on the wall

Purpose

A triple or three-gang switch is designed to switch three groups of luminaires. This can be a combined lighting method, where spot lighting is combined with a central one, groups of lamps in multi-track chandeliers, at different levels of a plasterboard ceiling, turning on the light in the bathroom, corridor, toilet. Its advantages are the following:

• saving electricity;
• compactness;
• beautiful appearance;
• control from one place of several light sources in different rooms (in the bathroom, in the toilet, in the kitchen);
• the ability to control illumination by switching light sources, where it is not possible to use dimmers;
• change, if necessary, the illumination in the room.

Options for using multi-key switches:

• changing the intensity of the lighting of the chandelier;
• control of several lamps (table, pendant, wall);
• control of several lighting zones in one room (lamp, chandelier, backlight).

They also add an outlet. The device in the form of a block becomes more functional.

Device selection

Since the choice is large enough, you can find a model that matches the interior of the room. . The devices also differ functionally:

1. Ordinary switches.
2. Devices with an indicator that can turn on in the dark to indicate its location or indicate which key is on.
3. Pass switches. They are installed in different places of long corridors or passages, on stairs, different floors, etc. Through them, one or a group of lamps can be controlled from different places.

The body of the product must be free of scratches, burrs, abrasions and other damage. The keys should be easy to switch with characteristic clicks, and the terminals should firmly fix the connected wires. Self-clamping terminals work reliably, more convenient to use. It is enough to insert the wire into the hole, and it will be fixed. Here it is important to correctly remove it if necessary. For this, the device has special latches that are wrung out. Pulling the wire out of the hole may damage the connector.

Connection

The connection diagram of the switch depends on its type. On the back of the device there is a diagram of its contacts. How they are connected to the lamps can be seen in the figure.

Wiring diagram of a three-gang switch

Power wires are connected to the junction box: blue zero (N) and brown phase (L). 3 wires from the bulbs are connected to zero. The phase goes to the switch, where it is connected to the terminal (L). From the switch contacts, it diverges into light bulbs, closing their circuits.

The switch is always inserted into the break of the phase, not the neutral wire.

Despite the fact that the connection diagram is simple, the following technology for mounting the switch must be observed:

1. De-energizing the mains by turning off the circuit breaker.
2. Dismantling the old switch: removing the buttons, removing the frame, loosening the clamping screws, removing the housing from the socket, releasing the wires. A mark is made on the phase wire disconnected from the terminal (L). The voltage indicator first checks the presence of a phase on it, since the wires can be mixed up. To do this, voltage is temporarily applied. After touching the phase bare wire, the indicator should light up. Then the power turns off again.
3. A new switch is connected according to the diagram shown on its reverse side. It shows the terminals for connecting the phase and the other three wires. The clamping screws are first unscrewed a little for the free entry of wires.
4. The switch is mounted in the socket. The block is fixed with clamping screws, after which the lining and keys are attached.
5. The correct operation of the device is checked by alternately pressing the keys.

In old-style apartments, two-gang switches are installed to turn on the lighting in the corridor, toilet, bathroom and kitchen (in various combinations). If there are not enough wires to install a triple block, you will have to lay them additionally.

Separate double and triple switches can be installed for larger bathrooms and kitchens where there may be multiple lighting zones.

If a three-gang switch with a socket is installed, its connection diagram differs slightly from the previous one. On fig. below are two different designs of a three-gang switch (a - BVR3; b - BSU3), where the electrical circuit is the same (c). The power supply to the terminals (5) of the socket is supplied through a separate neutral conductor and phase, connected with a jumper from the unit.

Block diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket

Position 1 indicates the body, 2 - keys, 3 - screw, 4 - cover, 6 - switch contacts.

Connection Features

A switch with several keys and a socket is usually installed in one place - near the doors of the bathroom and toilet. The unit makes it possible to control the lighting and connect an electric shaver, hair dryer and other appliances used in the bathroom.

Scheme of connecting the block of a two-gang switch with a socket to power and loads

5 connections are made in the junction box (fig. above). A green ground wire is also introduced here, which goes only to the outlet. On a luminaire with metal parts, protection against electric shock is also required. For this, a screw connection is installed on the metal case.

With a variety of models of a triple switch with a socket, the wiring diagram remains the same (fig. below). The unit is connected in the same way as single or double models. The power cable is everywhere connected to the input of the device, and the wires go from the contacts of the switch block to the lamps, matching in number with its keys.

Schematic diagram of a triple switch with a socket

The socket has a separate neutral wire and is not connected to the switch according to the scheme. They only have a common phase. All zero wires from lamps and sockets are connected in the junction box to the supply neutral. The phase is connected to the common input contact of the switch. Contacts for lighting sections are located on a separate block. From them, voltage is supplied to the light bulbs.

Before connecting, 10 mm of insulation is removed at the ends of the wires. To connect them, it is advisable to use NShVI lugs, which do not allow the wire to break off when tightened with clamps.

The block is fixed in the niche of the wall with the help of spacers or calipers, after which a decorative frame is put on top of it. Ways of its attachment can be very diverse.

Manufacturers

Many people choose triple switches for aesthetic reasons. If the room is decorated antique, Fede models are suitable here. German Gira products have a sophisticated design and are in great demand. They adapt well to the interior of the Legrand model, horizontal or vertical. ABB provides a wide range of circuit breakers. Products are available with LED lighting, which adds functionality to aesthetics.

Combined switches are manufactured by the domestic manufacturer Kuntsevo-Electro. The block made of durable plastic is used for vertical installation in niches on the walls. The following models of triple switches with socket are available:

• BELLA BKVR-039 - with a socket without a ground contact (Fig. a below);
• BELLA BKVR-212 - with red indicator light (fig. b);
• BELLA BKVR-036 - with a euro socket equipped with protective shutters (fig. c).

Three-gang switches with a socket

The switches have the following characteristics: voltage 220 V, rated load current 10 A. Models with a rated current of 16 A and with a grounding contact are produced by NPO Elektrotekhnika (models BZVRzk-S “REONE”, BZVRzksh-S “REONE”).

Installing an outlet. Video

You can learn in detail about the installation of sockets and the replacement of the BKVR-039 combined unit from the video below.

A triple switch with a socket is rarely used, but it is convenient when you need to control several light sources from one point where you need to connect electrical appliances. The block is multifunctional and takes up little space, since three devices are combined in one.

Connecting a three-gang switch is a little more complicated than a single-gang switch. The difference is that it has three output contacts to the bulbs. The block socket works as a separate device, and the neutral wire from the junction box comes to it, and the phase is connected through a jumper from the switch.

In panel houses, three-gang switches with a socket are widely used. They stand in the corridor and control the light in three rooms - a kitchen, a bathroom and a bathroom. The socket here is provided for various household needs, for example, to turn on the vacuum cleaner, razor, hair dryer, etc. A lot of time has passed since they were installed and today they require replacement. It is not difficult to buy such three-gang switches with a socket, but not everyone can figure out how to connect it. In this article, I analyze in detail the connection diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket, with which you can do everything yourself.

Before starting all work, be sure to de-energize the apartment or this line. Safety is paramount.

During the dismantling of the old unit, remember, or rather, sign all the wires that you will disconnect. This will allow you to quickly figure out which wire goes where. In a nutshell about wires - the meaning here is this:

• from the junction box to the switch block, one two-wire wire fits and is connected to the socket contacts;
• from this socket from the "phase" contact there is a jumper to the common contact of the switch block (this is the only black wire in the figure below);
• from the other contacts of the switch block, three phase conductors go to the lamps.

I think these explanations are not enough, so I sketched a connection diagram for a three-gang switch with a socket, where I painted everything in detail. Here you pay attention to the drawn lines and do not particularly pay attention to the bunch of wires in the block, since amateur performance is induced here and the owners of the apartment have powered another outlet. See below...

In the photo above, a plastic box from a new three-gang switch with a socket is already mounted in the wall. It exactly fits into the grooved recess from the old switch. It can be planted on plaster, or it can be attached with dowels. Here the choice is yours.

Below is a photo without my art. This unit is in the apartment of one family of pensioners. The wiring here is old and they did not want to change it in any case. Some of the wires were broken and they were extended through single terminal blocks. Next, we see the yellow-green wiring - this is the "zero" conductor that goes to the outlet mounted in the kitchen (this is already an amateur performance of some electrician).

The switches themselves are already put in place below. In fact, they can not be removed, since there is still access to the contact bolts.

I removed them out of curiosity...

Now we put the body in place. It is attached with three bolts.

Setting up a side key...

Now another side key...

At the final stage, we put the middle key. That's all the three-gang switch with a socket is ready for operation. In order to disassemble it and get to the contacts, you need to follow the steps in the reverse order described here.

If these explanations are not enough for you, then read the new material supplementing this article: Supplement to the article "Wiring diagram of a three-gang switch with a socket". Here I consider two different schemes for connecting such a block and give detailed explanations.

Let's smile:

Physics teacher - Vovochka:
What happens if you insert a magnet into a coil and take it back out?
- An induction current occurs in the circuit.
- Right! What if it takes a long time?
- An electrician can be born.

Replacing the standard switch block

Many of the apartments still have old-style electrical switches combined with a socket. Such switches were mainly installed to control the light of the kitchen, toilet and bathroom ...

The proposed range of replacement switch blocks in standard sizes is not large and is limited to several types.
It is easier to replace the standard old box in the wall with a modern one, where you can put a separate switch and socket, or as in the photo, where there are two switches and a socket.

Remember! Work under voltage is life-threatening! If you do not have the necessary qualifications, it is better to entrust the work to a specialist.

To replace the switch box, you will need the following materials
1. Box for switches and sockets.
2. New switches and socket
3. Gypsum plaster or alabaster

Required Tools
1. Screwdrivers
2. Spatula
3. Perforator (preferably with chiseling mode)
4. Capacity for diluting the solution
5. Phase probe

The box should not be very deep so that the seat in the wall needs to be deepened as little as possible, when buying sockets, make sure that they fit freely in the box and will not interfere with each other.

Before starting work, it is necessary to de-energize the entire block of switches by turning off the circuit breakers in the central panel, after which we dismantle the block by first removing the keys (on the old-style switch, they are removed by pulling the key towards itself with its subsequent displacement upwards), and then releasing the screws securing the wires .

We unscrew the socket itself and the switches, disconnect the wires, after remembering which wire should go where. Having taken out the switch block, we dismantle the metal box of the switch block.

After dismantling the old unit with the box, we bend the wires to the side, mark out a new seat, and very carefully extend the socket for the new box with a puncher.

As mentioned earlier, it is better to use a hammer drill with a chisel mode. If the puncher only allows drilling, then you can gradually expand the space under the box, carefully drilling and chipping off the concrete in a small fragment.

We must not forget that the block is usually located on a thin wall of a bathroom or toilet, so you need to be very careful to lengthen and deepen the nest so as not to break through the wall.

It is advisable to remove the wallpaper around the socket for the outlet, as it may be necessary to putty the wall around the box.
After expanding and deepening the seat under the box, it is necessary to thoroughly sweep the dust before cementing and moisten the nest in the wall, for this it is convenient to use an ordinary paint brush.

Wires are inserted into the box, and the box is installed in its place. Having diluted a little solution (gypsum plaster or alabaster), we fill the gaps around the box with a spatula, we try to keep the box upright, the box should not protrude from the wall and should stand straight.

Gypsum plaster seizes more slowly than gypsum or alabaster in its pure form, after the solution dries, you can install new switches and a socket in the box.

When performing work, do not forget to follow the safety precautions for working with electricity, work only after turning off the power and checking for the absence of a phase using a tester or a special probe.

Related materials:

The problem of a small bathroom is a common question for many people who want to transform a similar space into a multifunctional space...

Warm summer greetings to all from Taganrog!

In my new article, we will consider the issues of replacing the socket block with an old-style double switch, which was previously installed in all panel “Khrushchev” houses. Replacement will be carried out with a new block of switches with a socket under one frame.

As usual, there will be many photos, a wiring diagram, recommendations for mounting and connecting this device.

How this miracle of Soviet design and technology looks like is shown in the photo on the left.

Such a block consists of one socket (naturally, without grounding) and two or three switch keys. Switches turn on the lights in the bathroom, toilet, and kitchen.

In principle, the idea is not bad, but over time, all this becomes unusable, because these switches are used in the apartment much more often than all the others put together.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket in one block

The scheme is generally simple, but I will give it.

Subscribe! It will be interesting.

The following wires come to the replaced unit: phase, zero, and two wires “leave” to power the bathroom and toilet lamps. The phase is used to power the socket and switches. Zero - only for the outlet.

Wiring diagram for switches with a socket

Strictly speaking, when installing electrical wiring, lighting groups are usually separated. That is, different power wires with should go to the switches and sockets, and turn off at the same time different in the switchboard. But they did it before, out of poverty.

Dismantling the old block

Almost every day you have to deal with the concept of "PIPETS". Another pipets - at the end of the article.

So, we remove the cover, we see:

What do we see? Everything is shattered and shattered, the two upper switches are in a completely dead state, the third one is not connected, and according to the hostess, it never worked. The socket is more or less compared to them, given that in such a place it is hardly used.

The panel house is 40 years old. Turn on the lights in the kitchen and bathroom at least 10 times a day. 40x365x10=146 thousand times. They did a good job.

At this stage, we understand the wires, check where the phase is, and turn off the power. In this case, you must have a headlamp, without it in any way.

We take out the insides. The main thing is not to break off the wires and notice where everything goes.

3. We take out all the insides - the old socket, switches, metal box

The bad ends that went to the switches had to be cut off - they were still short.

The two bottom wires go to the outlet. On the left - zero, on the right - the phase, which in the old days electricians designated with black rag tape (there was no other, there were no markers either).

It is worth saying that for some reason the antique metal installation box is fastened with tin as tightly. It is fastened with some screws with nuts, which must be scrolled. I changed such blocks more than once, and each time tearing out this box is a torment. I use powerful pliers, a large flat screwdriver.

4. This will never be useful to anyone again. Thank you for your service!

Installing a new switch block with socket

Here is what is best to use in such cases:

Also, to install a block from a socket and a switch, you need a double frame, it did not get into the frame. She will be in the last photo, I promise.

And what's fresh in the VK group SamElectric.ru ?

Subscribe and read the article further:

Recently, I use only Turkish switches and sockets, most often VI-KO. They are the best in price / quality, and very easy to install. The photo shows the VIKO Carmen model, their design is a bit old. And finishers do not like them for their rounded shape. In this sense, VIKO Karre is better - they have a modern design, and they have a perfectly rectangular shape.

Sockets Karre - television and power under a triple frame. Photo from the article

There are ready-made solid blocks for just such purposes, where a socket and a double switch are combined in one housing. Productions of Belarus, and Russia. Very uncomfortable, bad, clumsy. I DO NOT RECOMMEND.

Box - specially for two installation places, one-piece. It is better to use it than two separate ones with a jumper.

Installing the junction box. We have to cut out part of the upper side in order to minimally bend the old aluminum.

At the bottom, you have to chisel a little so that the box is flush with the wall:

Next comes the longest, dirtiest and most unpleasant. We work with alabaster or gypsum putty, use a spatula and preferably a level. After that, you can relax - smoke or (in my case) ask the hosts to pour tea.

Now we use pieces of copper wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 and, which help out a lot.

It is important that in order for this whole structure to stand for many years (up to), it is necessary to protect it electrically correctly. The current of the circuit breaker in this case should be no more than 16 A, and preferably 13 or even 10 Amperes. I have already written in detail about the choice of a circuit breaker (circuit breaker) more than once,.

We work from below.

9. We connect and install the socket first

I use Vago's double terminals for extending the wires to the switch, the quadruple for phase distribution, I managed to fasten zero directly to the socket, the length allowed.

We fix the socket with screws in the box. I already wrote, who did not read - I highly recommend. We don’t tighten it much, but you can ignore the spacer ears at all and even throw them away.

Install and connect the switch according to the wiring diagram. Securely and evenly fix the entire structure with self-tapping screws.

10.Socket and switch connected and installed. See the gap between the socket and the double switch? It should be 0.5-1 mm wide, and the same along the entire length.

The case is drawing to a close. A few smart moves...

11. Dressing a double frame

And the installation of the socket block with the switch is finished!

12. Block socket and switch on the bathroom installed

That's basically it. If something is not clear or there is something to add - ask and write in the comments. If you are interested in what I will publish on the SamElectric blog next - subscribe to receive new articles.

Update from 26 Apr. 2014: Here's another "kick": a switch for two rooms. This is an apartment in the old district of Taganrog, and this does not happen there (for example, two phases in an apartment, because between the phases - 220V, not 380) - there was one room, there were two. But the switch remains...

If you have any questions about how to connect a double switch block with a socket, please contact us in the comments!

Carrying out repair work in the bathroom, many pay great attention to the choice of ceramic tiles, plumbing and design elements. Bathroom light switches, sockets and other electrical wiring are often left unattended. This is a common mistake, since the bathroom is considered a place with increased danger to electrical appliances and human health.

Bathroom wiring requirements

The bathroom, especially if it is combined with a toilet, is an area of ​​​​high risk and danger for electrical appliances. The switch for the bathroom is subject to strict requirements, since in this room at the same time there are such risk factors as:

• high voltage in the network;
• increased level of humidity;
• sudden temperature changes.

Important! You should always remember that moisture is the best conductor of electric current, so installing a switch in the bathroom is a responsible undertaking that requires compliance with all safety regulations.

Wiring should be carried out after plumbing according to a pre-planned plan. The best option is to place electrical points in special boxes that are immured into the wall. Cables are also embedded in the wall using corrugated channels, which allow you to replace the wiring if necessary without dismantling the decorative coating.

Advice! Before connecting the switch in the bathroom, we recommend that you listen to the advice of experts. They unanimously advise taking the switch outside the bathroom and connecting it to the toilet and kitchen in one block, since in most apartments, the bathroom and kitchen are located nearby.

Residual current device

Installation rules and wiring require that all electrical appliances, sockets and lamps be connected to a common network through a residual current device or RCD. If water enters a switch, socket or other electrical equipment, the RCD detects the loss of voltage and instantly switches on the light in the bathroom automatically. This is done so that electrical appliances, as a result of getting wet, do not harm a person with an electric shock.

Many mistakenly believe that an emergency shutdown machine and an RCD are one and the same device. But this is far from true. The circuit breaker, which is popularly called "automatic" or "bag", is designed to protect devices from short circuits. If the switch for the bathroom and toilet is connected through such an automatic machine, then in the event of a short circuit, overheating or power surge, it automatically opens the circuit, preventing the electrical wiring from igniting.

The RCD is designed to catch voltage leakage. In other words, it monitors the voltage in the phase and neutral wires in real time. If the switch between the bathroom and the toilet begins to lose voltage as a result of moisture ingress, the device will turn off the network.

Advice! On sale there are special differential automatons that combine the functions of protection against power surges, short circuits and at the same time perform the role of an RCD. This is the best protection against accidental electric shock due to moisture on the conductors of electrical appliances.

Rules for choosing bathroom switches

If you do not have a common bathroom-toilet-kitchen switch installed, but use a separate switch in the bathroom, then such a device must have a special degree of protection, which is indicated by the “IP” marking. The IP marking range can be from IP-00 (unprotected against moisture) and IP-68 (maximum protection against moisture ingress). In such designations, the first digit indicates the degree of protection against fine dust particles, the second digit indicates the degree of protection against moisture ingress.

If you have a bath-toilet-kitchen switch block installed outside the bathroom, then you can use switches with an IP-00 degree, if the device is installed directly indoors or outdoors, then the degree of protection should be as high as possible.

Important! Please note that bathroom switches must have covers that close the contact holes from direct liquid ingress. Also, the product must have rubber seals at the cable entry points.