How to cover roses. How to cover hybrid tea roses for the winter

There is such a delusion among summer residents that roses can grow and feel great without needing any care. In fact, only rosehips can be grown without providing care. All varietal roses require careful treatment. Some of them are unpretentious, others are capricious, but both will require some work. These plants need pruning, feeding, watering, preventive treatments. Some of the activities will need to be carried out in the fall in order to competently prepare the bushes for wintering.

Caring for roses in autumn

All varieties of crops need shelter for the winter, even if they are grown in middle lane... But before you get close to this step, roses should smoothly enter a state of biological rest, and the task of the gardener is to help them in this. Let us dwell in more detail on those events that roses need in the fall.

Pruning roses in autumn to strengthen them root system, create a supply of nutrients for the spring, rejuvenate plants. After the procedure carried out in accordance with all the rules in the next season, the bushes will certainly delight you with a gorgeous flowering. For each type of garden queen, this procedure will have its own characteristics, but here are the advantages autumn pruning will be common:

On the trimmed plant, the laying of future peduncles is enhanced.
Shortened shoots are more convenient to cover for the winter.
The rose will be more protected from diseases and pests.
In the spring, the growth of new shoots will increase on the bush.
After pruning, the bush requires less nutrition and the roots accumulate valuable substances for active growth in spring.
The root system finally has time for its own development.

On a note! When pruning in the fall, the deadlines must be met with precision. Roses should not be pruned from early August until the first frost, otherwise dormant buds will bloom and young unripe shoots will suffer in winter.

Pruning is short, medium, and long. If you got a seedling as a gift, and you could not determine the type of rose, choose a medium cut for it. In addition, all old, unripe, damaged shoots, branches growing inside the bush, dried flowers and leaves are removed.

Work is carried out using a pruner, a sharp knife and a delimber (for thick branches). Additionally, you will need heavy gloves, a garden pitch, and a rake to remove the clippings. For work, you need to choose dry, sunny weather. All cuts are made at a 45 degree angle.

Autumn pruning of roses: video

Top dressing in the fall is needed in order to restore the balance of minerals in the soil, to give the roses strength after flowering and pruning. Fertilization also increases the winter hardiness of the crop and strengthens the immunity of plants.

On a note! In autumn, roses are fed twice - in early September and 2 weeks before frost.

Cannot be used in autumn nitrogen fertilizers stimulating vegetation. The gardener's challenge this time of year - slow down the growth processes of the plant. To strengthen the root system, phosphorus, potassium and magnesia are most suitable. You can use a granular fertilizer just by sprinkling it around the bush. Some people prefer a slurry, dissolving a mineral supplement in water.

Root dressing can be replaced by spraying on the leaf. For root application, a composition of 10 liters of water is prepared, 2 tbsp. spoons of phosphate, 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate, 0.5 tsp boric acid... For foliar dressing you can use the same solution, but 2 times weaker concentration. From natural fertilizers it is recommended to use wood ash.

Preventive treatment of roses is carried out after water-charging irrigation, feeding and pruning. Spraying completes the complex of care measures for flowers in the fall. Immediately after it, the roses are spud and covered. It is necessary to process the plant before wintering, because the ripened spores of the fungus fall along with the leaves to the ground, where they can safely winter under the snow.

Even resistant varieties of roses can be susceptible to diseases. Processing can be carried out both with the help of time-tested and modern drugs. For autumn spraying, a 3% solution of ferrous sulfate is traditionally used.

Attention! The drug is only diluted in a glass, plastic or enamel container. Metal containers in contact with ferrous sulfate give an undesirable chemical reaction.

Against powdery mildew and black spot are effective drugs:

Speed;
Fundazol;
Topaz;
Ridomil Gold;

Pathogens can get used to chemicals, so it is recommended that you use a new product each time. Biofungicides should not be used during autumn processing, since their effect is manifested only at positive temperatures, in the cold they are useless. It is necessary to process not only the bushes, but also the soil under them.

When to start preparing for winter by region

In September, they stop cutting roses for a bouquet, reduce watering, and carry out phosphorus-potassium dressing. Continuing the work in October, they loosen the ground under the bushes for the last time, stop watering and feeding, cover it with a film during the rains, and treat it against pests. After that, the roses are ready for shelter and wintering. The timing of the events depends on the region where the roses are grown. The gardener must first of all be guided by the weather conditions.

In the middle lane, which includes the Moscow region, the last preparatory activities are carried out in late October or early November. The shoots of roses are shortened, the leaves are removed from them, all diseased and unripe shoots are cut off. The best hideout for rose bushes it is snow.

After waiting for the first snowfall, the snow mass is thrown onto the bush so that the branches are as hidden as possible. As a shelter, you can also use spruce branches, pine needles, dry leaves. Of covering materials, lutrasil or agrotex are suitable.

Only zoned varieties of roses are suitable for growing in the Urals. The Canadian varieties, which have similar conditions in their homeland, tolerate this climate well. The ability to winter is also influenced by the presence of vaccination. If varietal roses are grafted onto a rose hip, they tolerate better very coldy, get sick less.

It is better for residents of the Urals to organize a rose garden on the southern side of the building on a raised place so that roses receive maximum sunlight and warmth during cultivation. In the second half of summer, low pruning should not be carried out, so as not to provoke the growth of young shoots. In August, plants are no longer given nitrogen fertilization, and towards the end of the month they stop watering the roses.

You need to cover the plants after the first frosts to -5 degrees pass. Such weather will serve as a kind of hardening for the bushes. The base of the rose is covered with peat, sand, humus or wood chips immediately after the last pruning in October. The above-ground part is wrapped with 4-5 layers of covering material.

For Siberia, the same rules for hiding roses apply as for other regions. In early September, they stop loosening the soil near the bushes, and from the middle of the same month they stop watering them. In dry, cool soil, the roots will gradually prepare for wintering. The rose is covered with the arrival of stable frosts, approximately this period falls on the very beginning of October.

The culture easily tolerates short-term frosts down to -15 degrees, but the warm and humid air under the shelter can lead to the creation of a greenhouse effect and the death of the rose... Therefore, there is no need to rush to cover too much. After the night temperatures reach -5 degrees, the bush needs to be covered with loose earth or peat by 1/3 of the height. Before this, it is recommended to bent a rose with long shoots to the ground. In Siberia, the bush is first covered with non-woven material, and then spruce branches. You can build a raised shelter on arches.

Important! In the spring, the covering structure should be disassembled before the snow begins to actively melt, otherwise the roses may suffer from melt water.

Climate Leningrad region characterized by inconsistent weather due to the influence of arctic, continental and sea air masses. Cyclones often dominate here, attracting wind and precipitation to the region. Due to this, in summer the weather is cool, and in winter there are often thaws and temperature drops.

High humidity is a real disaster for roses. In such conditions, the culture is often affected by fungal diseases, so it is extremely important to plant it in a place where there is most of the sun. For planting, it is best to choose winter hardy varieties resistant to temperature fluctuations. In the middle of summer and in October, phosphorus-potassium fertilizer is applied under the roses.

The last dressing should be applied in early October, so that the roses have assimilated the fertilizer before frost. At the same time, pruning and treatment from diseases and pests is carried out. It will be necessary to cover the roses at an average daily temperature of -3 degrees (approximately - at the end of October) with non-woven material. It is best to fix it on arcs so that an air gap remains around the flowers.

Shelter and pruning roses for the winter: video

How to prepare roses for winter correctly

Preparation for winter depends on the type of rose. The differences relate to the rules for pruning and the method of shelter. As for the organization of watering and feeding, their schedule remains the same for all representatives of the culture.

Have climbing roses before wintering, cut off all the buds, the main part of the leaves and unripe shoots. Sick and broken branches are also subject to removal. On climbing varieties, cut out all faded shoots, leaving 10 replacement shoots for replacement. Another group that blooms on shoots different ages, requires pruning of branches 4 years of age or older. Sick and damaged shoots are also cut out on these bushes.

Next, the branches are removed from the support, tied and attached to the ground with staples. There should be a pillow of dry foliage or spruce branches under the branches. The lashes are bent gradually, in several stages, trying not to damage them. This procedure is carried out at positive temperatures; in frost, the branches become fragile and can break.

In this position, the bushes of climbing roses are 1.5-2 weeks. With the onset of stable frosts, they are first covered with spruce branches, and then with lutrasil. For the construction of a shelter, you can also use arcs, over which an insulating material is thrown and fixed.

It is difficult for park roses to stop growing on their own, even with the arrival low temperatures... Pruning can help them with this. In addition to shortening the shoots, leaves are removed on these roses. If there are a lot of rose bushes, you need to cut off, at least, leaves with signs of disease. Infected foliage must be burned outside the site. Start pruning at zero temperature.

During the procedure, all diseased, damaged, immature shoots are cut out. The remaining branches are shortened by 1/3 of the length. High grades a stronger pruning is needed, the branches of the small-flowered variety are shortened by about 10 cm. autumn time pinch the tops of new shoots, and do the same with the buds that have appeared.

After pruning and feeding, the roses are spud up to a height of 30 cm and they begin to gradually bend the bushes to the ground. Despite the fact that the stems are tough, this must be done. With vertical wintering, shoots can suffer from wind and thaws. To facilitate the process, even in August, you can hang metal weights from the branches. The bent stems are fixed to the ground with staples, after which they are covered with a non-woven material.

On a note! To make it easier to bend the bush to the ground, dig in the roots on one side. If at the same time a small tear of the root system occurs, this is not scary, in the spring it will recover.

During pruning of bush roses, 3-5 strong shoots are left, the rest of the branches are cut at the root. The remaining branches need medium pruning and are usually cut in half. After the shearing, they carry out preventive treatment of the bushes and mulch with a high layer of peat or soil. At a temperature of -5 degrees, the final insulation is carried out.

For the upper part of the shoots, an air-dry shelter method is used. Arcs are fixed above the bushes, on top of which covering material is thrown. In the northern regions, before installing the arches, the bushes are additionally covered with spruce branches. For single large bushes, you can use the frame method.

In warm regions and the middle lane ground cover roses can easily endure the winter without additional shelter, but in cold areas they need to be sheltered. Before that, the plants carry out sanitary pruning, spraying against diseases and pests. Covers ground cover roses with the arrival of the first frost. If this is done in warm weather, the bush can sprinkle and be badly damaged.

It is also better to remove the leaves from the shoots before the shelter. Warming can be carried out using spruce branches, sawdust, lutrasil. Some people prefer to build a frame around the bushes, which is covered with agrofibre on top. The branches of tall varieties are laid on a pillow of branches and spruce branches, and an air shelter is installed on top. The air gap not only helps to preserve heat, but also prevents the roses from rotting.

At the beginning of autumn, on a floribunda, it is recommended to cut off the tops of all young shoots - this will accelerate the maturation of the remaining branches. Towards the end of September, roses are covered with peat to a height of 10 cm and watering is stopped. The main pruning of this variety is carried out in the spring; in the autumn, the bush is pruned slightly, only for sanitary purposes.

Shoots are not cut shorter than 40 cm. Despite the fact that these roses recover quickly after wintering, they need shelter even in the middle lane. Leaves are removed from the shoots, the bushes are spud up to a height of 20-30 cm, and then covered with spruce branches and non-woven material. After the snow falls, the roses will be completely protected from the winter cold.

When preparing tea roses for winter, you need to prune them properly. You cannot leave young, unripe shoots on the bush, they will definitely rot under cover. In addition, sick, weak, old branches directed deep into the bush are removed. This procedure is carried out immediately in front of the shelter.

For the winter, 3-4 lignified shoots are left, cut off to the height at which the bush will hide. The shelter is carried out at a temperature of -5-7 degrees. First, the roses are spud up to a height of 20 cm with compost or peat, and then they are plucked with spruce branches. In the northern regions, you can additionally use a warming non-woven fabric.

How to properly cover roses for the winter: video

Experience in self-cultivation roses contributes to the accumulation of secrets, thanks to which the flowers always look great and delight with an abundance of buds. It will be useful for beginners to learn the following about preparing roses for winter:

You can identify unripe shoots by their color. Twigs that are not ready for wintering will have a reddish color.
Autumn dressing should be done in dry weather. In this case, the roses will absorb maximum amount fertilizers.
If it rains outside, it is better to feed the rose granular fertilizers, scattering them over the soil surface near the bush and slightly loosening the soil surface.
Excessive watering will cause formation a large number new shoots and surface roots, vulnerable to frost, therefore, after flowering, the roses are watered very carefully, and during the rains they are covered with a film.
Before you start hilling, you need to tear off the leaves from the bottom of the shoots and paint the stems with special garden paint to protect against diseases and pests.
The hilling height directly depends on the plant variety. Low-growing varieties huddle at a lower height than tall ones.
The tool that is used for pruning roses must be sharpened, dry and clean.

If you follow all the rules for the autumn preparation of roses for winter, in the spring the plants will surely thank you with a healthy, well-groomed appearance and the formation of graceful buds. Even a small rose garden is able to unusually decorate the site and give its owner minutes of pleasant relaxation and enjoyment of the sight and scent of his favorite flowers.

Before the shelter, the soil under the roses is dug up (on the bayonet of a shovel), trying not to damage the roots. Shoots of scrubs and climbing roses must be bent to the ground and laid on a layer of spruce branches. In order not to break powerful plants, the bushes are undermined on one side and laid, pinning the shoots to the ground.

Then they spud the bushes - or rather, sprinkle a mound of dry earth with a height of at least 30 cm to the base of the bush. The pruned hybrid tea roses and floribunda, as a result, are almost completely covered with earth. For shrub roses (after they have been bent to the ground), the base of the bush is earthed, you can sprinkle it with earth and shoots.

Hilling helps keep a large number of buds in the plant, and any pruning method can be used in the spring. The air temperature under such a reliable earthen shelter (even in the absence of snow cover) for some time remains much higher than outside.

True, you should not rush to huddle roses for the winter either. Better to do this in two steps. From October 10-15, soil is lightly poured into the base of the shrubs to protect from unexpected early frosts. And they finally huddle already before the onset of constant cold weather.

It is undesirable to use clean peat, sawdust or sand - they are very moisture-absorbing and with sharp temperature fluctuations in winter, an ice crust can form around the roses. From its pressure on the bark of the plant, cracks will appear through which the infection will penetrate.

Hilling - best view protection of the root system. But - attention - at the same time, the earth is not raked from the flower beds, since this would bare the roots of the plants, but sprinkled (it can be compost, humus, or just loose earth). In addition, cover the soil between the rows with a layer of old straw manure, chopped bark or rotted foliage. When the ground freezes slightly (in the middle lane, as a rule, at the end of October - in the first decade of November), the roses are covered completely. It is best to do this in dry weather.

One of the simplest materials used to cover roses is a layer of spruce branches or dry foliage with a thickness of at least 10 cm. True, it is reliable in a relatively mild winters... If spruce branches are not available, you can use oak leaves and plant residues that do not overheat during the winter.

A more reliable way to hide roses is air-dry. Above the bushes, frames with a height of 50-60 cm are installed, any insulation material is laid on top and on the side, for example, waterproofing paper, glassine, cardboard. Cover with plastic wrap. The end sides of the shelter are closed when the temperature drops below -10 C. This method is called air-dry because it protects the bushes from the penetration of excess moisture, and the air layer protects the plants from hypothermia. This method is especially reliable in severe snowy winters. But it can only be used by those who are on their site constantly or who come in early spring: with an air-dry shelter already in March, the roses need to be periodically ventilated.

The main covering material is snow, it is he who will most reliably protect roses from frost. Everything else - spruce branches, foliage, lutrasil - serves only to arrest him. At 25-30-degree frosts under a layer of snow of 50-70 cm, the temperature does not drop below -4-5 C. Therefore, the shoots are bent to the ground so that they are necessarily covered with snow. With a small snow cover, you will have to throw it in additionally. If the snow does not fall for a very long time, then the roses may die, despite all the efforts made. But in those cases when a lot of snow falls from the very beginning of winter and it lies without melting until spring, modern garden roses can winter in the middle lane without any additional shelter.

Illustrations: Vladimir Lukyanov

Who grows roses in their summer cottage or personal plot, he knows for sure that this capricious beauty, sung by Antoine de Saint Exupery in "The Little Prince", and indeed requires regular care, appropriate to the season. The stage of preparing rose bushes for winter, especially in regions with a harsh frosty climate, is an important task for both beginner and experienced flower growers. And there are no trifles in this.

Everything is important here: in what time frame, what and how to cover the bushes of an adult rose, how and what to feed these ornamental plants so that they do not freeze and do not get wet over the winter and prolonged spring, but successfully revived for your joy. Long-term floriculture experience has developed completely clear and useful measures, which this article will introduce you to.

It is very important for novice gardeners in this matter not to overdo it and not to be overcautious: do not rush as fast as possible at the first weak frosts to quickly cover the roses. Such panicky eagerness can directly harm them, if not death. It is necessary to skillfully transfer rose bushes to the mode of winter vegetation in order to get the best result.

Oddly enough it sounds, but you need to start preparing a rose for winter in hot July according to the principle: "Prepare the sleigh in summer." In fact, this is due to the regime of feeding them this month only with potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Finish last mineral feeding kalimagnesia, containing potassium, which is responsible for the development of the root system and for the formation of wood of skeletal branches, which accordingly prepare all shoots for the winter cold. In turn, magnesium helps to lay leaf and flower buds, as well as shoots for successful vegetation of beautiful rose bushes next year.

Removing excess foliage

This seemingly superfluous, at first glance, artificial measure is, firstly, determined by the need to prepare plants for a state of seasonal dormancy. Secondly, it is a sanitary measure against the appearance in the mass of not completely fallen leaves of a favorable environment for rot and the development of harmful microbes and fungi. Thirdly, in the autumn crown of a rose there are already many leaves damaged by black spot or other infections.

By cutting off excess and defective leaves, we prevent future seasonal problems associated with common rose diseases, and we make the process of wintering under cover safe and successful. Dispose of cut leaves by burning, giving no chance of spreading spores, microbes and viruses in the next season or significantly reducing their impact.

It's important to know! In no case should you tear off excess leaves, which leads to injury to future buds and shoots, but cut off with a clean and very sharp pruner or scissors, for convenience, folding them into the trash can immediately. It is imperative to cut off underdeveloped inflorescences and fruits, thereby excluding their rotting under cover.

If you have several bushes, and among them are climbing or a whole rose garden, then such a preparation measure becomes too burdensome and almost impossible to do. It is important here to distribute forces and not to postpone the pruning of leaves for one pass, starting from September to do this sanitary pruning in a dosage manner. If it is not possible to cut off all the leaves in full under the conditions of your rose garden, then you must first of all limit yourself to cutting out defective or diseased leaves. Spray those leaves that you do not have time to cut with Bordeaux liquid, copper or iron vitriol, as well as the Maxim fungicide. Treat the soil around the bushes with ash.

If the varietal belonging of rose bushes allows them to bend their branches to the ground, excluding erect hybrid tea varieties, then the pruning option loses its relevance. Such specimens are cut off at least 50 centimeters so that they can be sheltered.

Before sheltering for the winter, rose bushes are huddled, or rather, they are covered with a mound, so that during this agromere not to expose the root system of the bush. It is better to cover the top with spruce branches, but do not use sawdust that draws out and retains excess moisture, which can cause the root collar of the bushes to heat up.

Climbing rose - pruning and bending

It is more appropriate to prune such varieties of roses in the spring. Weak and slender shoots should be cut shorter and strong ones half their length. Leave the most powerful and healthy ones without pruning. This will make it possible to form a cascading crown, in which in summer period the whole bush will bloom on new shoots completely, and not only its upper part.

When pruning a climbing rose in autumn, preparing it for winter shelter, the bulk of the shoots should be preserved, which will allow the bushes to maintain their vegetative strength by spring and quickly revive in a lush and blooming crown.

The process of work, and even more so, bending down for the winter shelter of a climbing rose is traumatic - they have large, often located thorns. For this reason, your equipment should be reliable from goggles to heavy gloves, especially all other clothing.

To amateurs, it may seem that bending a rose bush means laying it completely on the ground. Not everything is so tough - it is enough to bend the whole bush by at least 1 meter. But, it is clear that this is difficult to do right away due to the density and thickness of the main branches. You will have to accustom the climbing rose to the bent position even for several weeks.

How to properly bend climbing rose bushes

First, do not wait for a stable sub-zero air temperature, at which the rose twigs become fragile at a break without support.
Secondly, for a gradual and gentle bending of the main branches, use a strong cord, which is tied with one end to the top of the branches, and the other end to the bottom of the trunk. Initially, pull it up to the possible bend of the branches without kinking, and then, even within one day, gradually shortening it by re-tying it.
Thirdly, this process can be enhanced by boards laid on the bush, under the weight of which the branches of the rose can be bent to the angle of inclination we need.

Another thing is young bushes of climbing roses. It is enough to tie its shoots at a one-meter height with a rope and put them in a ring around the bush with their subsequent fixation, otherwise they will "disperse".

It's important to know! To avoid damage to the bent branches, they need to be tilted in the direction of the grafting site, as if "along the wool".

Bushes that are bent enough to continue the winter shelter process should be secured with arcs from suitable material, and better plastic flexible pipes which are frost-resistant, suitable for repeated use. Due to their flexibility, they can cover the entire protected bush of any size.

Special support lattices are optimal for growing and sheltering for the winter, which can be hung on special hooks on the wall or on support post... Such lattices make it possible in the fall to remove them together with the branches of the bush fixed on them and, with precautions against the bending of skeletal branches, lay them down directly on the soil with the lattice. Pre-put on the ground wooden planks or spruce branches so that the branches do not touch the ground.

It is important to know that roses of any kind and variety, if possible, will be better bent to the ground, and not cut.

Rodent protection... Like all plants sheltered for the winter, roses are attacked by rodents fleeing under cover from the cold, where they have a "table and a home." The right "treat" for them can be burdock thorns, blackroot root, but more reliable - waterproof poisonous bait "Cyclone"

How and what to cover roses for the winter?

Finally, the bush is completely prepared for covering, and it remains only to wait for dry cold weather, but not below 5 cold degrees C, in order to reduce the humidity of the protected object to a minimum. We emphasize that the indicated temperature is very comfortable for rose bushes, because it hardens it.

Covering at warmer degrees can lead to an increase in warm humidity and decay and even death of plants with the arrival of seasonal thaws.

Frame covering roses for the winter

In our time, progress has reached the point that the market will offer you ready-made protective cages for any plants. It is enough to buy in a specialized store or order on the corresponding website with delivery via mail. For those who can and loves to do everything with their own hands, there will certainly be available tools to create this simple-to-manufacture, but very easy-to-use frame.

It can be made from thin metal-plastic pipe, very flexible and pliable, from which you can make two cross-connected "pins" of the required height, install them above the plant. Four of its support tubes can be moved apart around the perimeter of the protected bush. It remains to wrap the sheet with an insulating sheet, connect it on the side and tie it on top, dig it with earth around the perimeter and lay it with objects fixing its weight, preferably with stones or bricks.

We remind you once again that use as insulation sawdust absolutely not!

If the fabric of the shelter does not allow itself to be tied from above, it is better to make the upper shelter in the form of a conical "blotch", securely fix it so that the wind does not blow off and the snow accumulating from above does not fall through. The greenhouse effect under such a frame is created by the internal insulated air mass.

Roofing material, polyethylene film and other synthetic modern insulation materials are used for winter shelter of plants in regions with severe frosty winters.

With proper shelter, they are able to protect even from strong and prolonged frosts, although they also have a dangerous drawback - they collect condensation water due to the greenhouse effect, which predisposes to rotting, and it is impossible to delay airing through the ends during thaw periods and in early spring and gradual exit roses from the shelter, so that they do not burn on a straight line sunlight... Even during the first "walks" after opening, the roses should be shaded while they adapt.

Winter covering roses with spruce branches

An inexpensive and natural means of covering roses for the winter, some use spruce branches, under which a wire frame is also needed, which will become good remedy and snow retention and protection from its load. Snow is known to be an excellent insulating material.

Recently, nonwoven materials based on glued cellulose fibers have been widely used as both winter and greenhouse shelters. It is about lutrasil or spunbond. Light, transmitting light and air in some volume, these materials are of different densities, thin and thicker.

With careful handling, they can last up to five seasons. As a cover for roses, choose a thick spunbond folded in two layers.

A valuable quality of non-woven fabric is its ability to keep moisture out from the outside, and internal vapors freely penetrate outside, which eliminates the accumulation of condensate. The covering device not only breathes, but also does not isolate the plant from light - in the spring you can immediately open the plants that have wintered under it without fear of sunburn.

If necessary, you can cover several nearby growing bushes with non-woven materials. It is troublesome and responsible only to fix them in case of harsh winds and heavy snowfalls, but this can be done using the same “pins” from a metal-plastic tube, having previously stitched them with a strong twine before covering them so that the non-woven fabric does not fall through or break, touching the cut branches of the bushes roses.

Even if you, our dear reader, are a novice gardener, these simple rules will help you show real care of your "pink" pets. There is confidence that the coming winter will become simple step life and growth and will not bring disappointments and mistakes. Good luck!

Dill spreads well by self-sowing, so many summer residents do not consider it necessary to sow this crop every year on the site. But at the same time, everyone understands that dill and dill are different. And the greens of carefully grown dill in the garden in their taste and aroma, as a rule, surpass the greens of dill, which grows by itself. This article will show you how to have enough green dill in your garden beds from early spring to late autumn.

Among the plants that boast variegated foliage, alpinia claims to be not only the rarest, but also the most original culture. It simultaneously reminds of bamboos and arrowroot calatheas, and sometimes even vriezia. True, it looks like the latter only with its inflorescences. Luxurious leaves, most often covered with variegated contrasting stripes, look so modern that it is impossible not to admire the beauty of their impeccable patterns and brilliance.

Vegetarian cabbage rolls with mushrooms - steamed cabbage rolls for dietary, vegetarian and lean menus. Cabbage rolls are incredibly tasty, very appetizing, and, if applicable to food, beautiful, unlike their white cabbage counterparts, stewed in a brazier or fried in a pan. Savoy cabbage tastes better than white cabbage, the head is loose, it is easier to disassemble it into individual leaves. The color of the leaves is from pale green to emerald.

V winter time every summer resident is looking forward to spring and is happy to open the season with the first sowing of flower and vegetable crops for seedlings. But, unfortunately, the space on the windowsill is limited, and it is not always possible to place it in the apartment. the right amount seedlings in cups. In addition, some of the crops may simply not grow, something will die ... And for us, summer residents, no matter how much we plant, it is not enough! Therefore, almost every gardener buys at least some seedlings.

Growing annuals in the garden has at least two advantages over growing perennial flowers. First, most of the popular annual plants bloom profusely throughout the growing season. Secondly, many annuals sow freely and appear in the garden year after year with minimal involvement from the grower. Which summer people can be planted only once, and then, following simple techniques, meet them in the garden every season?

You can make jellied meat and meat salad with onions from pork shank. The shank, especially the back, is a very tasty and affordable piece of pork carcass that can be fed to a small company. A 2-pound shank will make a bowl of meat salad and a large plate of jellied meat. There will still be meat broth, on which I advise you to cook cabbage soup or borscht. For this dish, we take a rear knuckle weighing from 1.7 to 2 kilograms, I advise you to beg the fleshy one from the butcher.

Eggplants require a sunny, but short day, medium-warm temperatures without sweltering heat, sufficient moisture, but without flooding the root system. It is rather difficult to provide such conditions in the open ground in most regions of Russia. That's why used to be eggplant grown only in greenhouses. With the development of selection, it became possible to grow eggplants in the open field, not only in the southern regions, but also in the middle lane.

Among predatory plants, the sundew rightly claims to be the brightest and most expressive beauty. This plant attracts, first of all, with its unusual textures and play of colors. But the feeding mechanism of this swampy and quite hardy miracle is so exotic that it is very easy to forget about sundews as plants, primarily decorative ones. The sundews are quite demanding on humidity, but they are not so difficult to grow in ordinary living quarters.

Made from simple and affordable ingredients, a chocolate custard cake is so delicious that one slice is rarely limited to. The biscuit cakes are moist, they look like they are made of real dark chocolate, although the recipe contains only cocoa powder. Creamy custard is delicate and light, and goes well with chocolate biscuit. All this splendor of tastes is complemented by coconut flakes, an ingredient is simple, but in this recipe, like the cherry on the cake, it comes in handy.

Although the calendar spring begins in March, this month can hardly be called spring. But May is already a real long-awaited spring, filled with aromas and colors of awakened nature. Fresh young leaves on trees and shrubs attract the eyes that yearn for greenery during the long months of winter. In May, the parade of primroses continues in the garden, delighting with variegated foliage and flowering ornamental shrubs, perennials, conifers are being updated.

In the middle lane, the formation of grapes suggests the possibility of shelter on winter period, which means that the reference point should be to preserve the head of the bush at the soil level. Farther north, one cannot count on a large harvest, but even such areas have their own pruning principles. The article discusses the fan-shaped scheme of the formation of a grape bush, which is often used in the middle lane, and the cordon one, which has shown itself well in regions with a more severe climate.

Beef with eggplant with vegetable sauce in the oven is a simple dish, very tasty and not very high in calories, which is quite important in our time. Only vegetable sauce, no flour, sugar, milk or cream. The meat is fat-free, yet juicy and tender. Can be replaced with chicken or veal. Eggplants do not need to be pre-fried, just add a little salt to soften. I advise you to prepare a light yoghurt sauce for the finished dish.

Indoor plants are much more dependent on feeding than garden plants. Thanks to top dressing, they get everything they need for growth and flowering. The substrate is depleted several months after transplanting. And if you do not replenish the reserves of nutrients, plants quickly begin to show signs of macro- and micronutrient deficiencies. Leaves are the first and most obvious signal to signal it. About the deficiency or surplus of which elements will the leaves "tell" indoor plants?

Duck with oranges in French - exquisite, juicy, with a golden skin. This baked duck will decorate any festive table, but it is easy to prepare, although, in comparison with the traditional fried chicken, it takes a little longer. Use a sleeve or baking bag to speed up the process and keep juices out. suitable size, remember that not every bag can fit a large duck! Serve the duck with the sauce and filling left after baking.

Purslane is a well-known weed, widespread throughout the world, with a number of qualities, for which all gardeners unanimously hate it. One of them is ineradicability. Purslane is so hardy that even one seed can be the beginning of the seizure of the site by this weed. To remove purslane from the garden and garden requires patience, knowledge and precision in the implementation of measures for its destruction. In this article, we will consider methods of dealing with purslane on the site.

Shelter roses- a very important and responsible event, from his correct conduct not only health depends, appearance and the timing of flowering, but also the very life of roses.

In most cases, roses die precisely in winter, and not so much from frost as from damping out and disease, due to improper shelter.
Very often, unsuccessful shelter and the death of roses in winter lead to the fact that gardeners completely refuse to grow roses and deprive themselves of great joy and beauty.
But it's not very difficult to cover roses, you just need to understand what determines the winter hardiness of roses, from which the rose dies in winter, and how to prevent this, to maintain the correct timing of shelter and disclosure of plants.
Recently, when creating new varieties of roses, much attention has been paid to winter hardiness and their resistance to unfavorable conditions, sometimes even to the detriment of the size of the flower and the degree of terry.
In Germany, such roses are marked with the ADR sign, but the indicated winter hardiness and resistance of these roses does not mean at all that they will winter with us without shelter.

For the wintering of a particular rose in specific conditions, its age and condition, damage from diseases, the weather of the past summer and autumn are very important.
The possibility of wintering roses under one or another shelter is greatly influenced by the weather of the coming winter (thickness of snow cover, temperature, presence of thaws, etc.), which cannot be foreseen.
But it is necessary to cover the roses in such a way that the shelter does not harm them under any weather conditions. It is also necessary to take into account local conditions: the type of soil, illumination at the planting site, the possibility of stagnant water there, the neighborhood of buildings, etc.
By weighing all these factors, the gardener must decide which roses to grow and how to cover them. Truly winter-hardy, we have only species roses - rose hips and their garden forms and varieties, mainly wrinkled rose varieties (rugosa), which belong to the group of park roses.
But even they can freeze over in frosty years to the level of snow and winter reliably when bending down. Low ground cover roses can also hibernate without shelter. Roses of other groups need a compulsory shelter.

Shelter dates for roses

There is considerable disagreement about the timing of shelter in the literature, but most agree that one should not rush to shelter roses, and they must be sheltered when stable cold weather sets in -5 ... -6 o C, and according to some sources, -8 ... -10 o C ...
However, in the Leningrad region, this approach is not applicable, since the weather late autumn and at the beginning of winter it is very unstable, low negative temperatures are replaced by positive ones and, waiting for the establishment of stable cold weather, you can skip the optimal time for sheltering roses.
High air humidity, frequent rains and wet snow do not allow keeping the rose garden dry, and you cannot cover raw roses with foil.
On the other hand, under an air-dry shelter with sufficient ventilation through the air left behind, the rose thrives at any temperature above or below zero. Covering with spruce branches and non-woven material (spunbond) also does not affect the condition of the roses.
Why then roses cannot be covered early, for example in early October, in dry weather? This cannot be done because the roses are pruned in front of the shelter, and in prolonged warm weather, early pruning> induces sprouting of dormant buds.
With further wintering, young shoots will freeze, rot, decay can be transmitted to the neck, and the rose can die. Thus, the timing of the shelter should be determined by the timing of the autumn pruning of roses.
Through long-term observations, it was found that when pruning roses in late October - early November, no germination occurs in St. Petersburg.
Periods of warm weather at this time are short, and frosts always begin in November. Hence, optimal time Shelter for roses is late October - early November. It is advisable to shelter in dry weather before snow falls.

Preparing roses for winter

About a month before shelter, you need to start preparing roses for winter... Rosaries need to be cleared of weeds and summer plants growing next to roses, you can spud them at this time (cover the base of the bushes with earth, sand).
Do not spud with peat, humus, fallen leaves. Early hilling prevents frost cracks from forming in the lower part of the bush, where they are most dangerous.
Hilling after the onset of frost can lead to the penetration of infection from the ground through frost holes, the development of diseases with further shelter and the death of plants.
To prevent diseases in winter, especially "infectious burns", before hilling, I paint the lower part of the stems and forks to the level of hilling or slightly higher, as well as all defects on the shoots water-based paint with the addition of copper oxychloride.
It is better to use a special garden paint, but you can use any paint. In no case should you prune the roses at this time, as this can cause the growth of new shoots that are not capable of wintering.
It is advisable to pinch the tops of the growing shoots at the end of August and remove the buds. If subsequently applied air dry shelter, it is advisable to dry the rose garden by installing a polyethylene roof over it.
Pruning roses is carried out directly in front of the shelter. Roses that cannot be cut short must be tilted. It is advisable to tear off the leaves from the roses; with an air-dry shelter, this must be done.

Shelter methods

There are many options for hiding roses, each does it differently. But it is very important to do this so that the shelter takes into account the peculiarities of the climate and possible weather options.
The main principle is “do no harm”. It is completely unsuitable for our conditions to cover roses in an upright position (for example, climbing roses on supports), backfilling them with fallen leaves and other similar materials.
In our climate, we can offer two fundamentally different approaches to sheltering roses.
The first is a shelter using water and breathable materials: spruce branches, nonwovens (spunbond, lutrasil), without the use of film.
The second is the shelter of roses using waterproof materials (film, roofing felt, polycarbonate) - "air-dry shelter".
The first method of shelter can be called "air-wet", it does not require preliminary drying of the rose garden, the use of only dry materials.
During the fall and winter, this shelter gets wet and dry. naturally... Creation is very important here air gap preventing the snow from pressing the roses to the ground.
For this, spruce branches are traditionally used, but if it is absent or lacking, it is possible to create a low support from rails laid on supports, metal arcs or lattice boxes.
From above, the roses are sheltered along the support double layer thick non-woven fabric. Such a shelter is not critical to the timing of the opening of roses, does not require airing.
Second way- an air-dry shelter consists of a frame on which insulating materials are reinforced. The frame is covered from above with a waterproof material such as plastic wrap.
As a frame, you can use a structure of sufficiently thick metal arcs, wooden supports with shields superimposed on them, boxes, etc. The frame must be strong enough to withstand the weight of the snow. Fabric can be used as an insulating material (for example, rugs made from old clothes), non-woven fabric folded in several layers.
When choosing materials, one should avoid materials that would attract mice. Main feature this method is the need to dry the rose garden, use only dry materials.
Leaves from roses and all extraneous plants from the rose garden should be removed so as not to increase the humidity. To make it easier to break off the leaves, you can spray them with 3% copper sulfate a few days before the shelter, this will also disinfect the roses.
With an air-dry shelter, it is not necessary to spud the roses, but if you do this, then only with dry earth or sand. If it was not possible to pre-dry the soil in the rose garden, you need to cover the entire surface with dry earth with a layer of 3-5 cm (you need to dry it in advance, take their greenhouses). The ends of the shelters must not be covered with foil.
When sheltering in warm weather, the ends can be left open for ventilation, and later covered with lutrasil in several layers.
After a cold snap and snow falls, the ends can be closed with a film, but it is better not to close the air vents with polyethylene for the winter, then you will not have to air the rose garden in early spring.
Thick lutrasil, placed under the film, not only insulates the roses, but also shades them, does not allow the shelter to turn into a greenhouse in early spring.
It is very important to understand that improper cover, especially with the use of film, not only does not bring benefits, but can cause great harm, up to the death of plants.
When covering with foil, the decisive factor is the dryness of the cover. A simplified way of sheltering roses is quite justified for more resistant varieties, in warmer areas, under favorable wintering conditions: when located in a warmer, dry area where water from roofs does not get, etc., with good snow cover and not too low winter temperature.
The most reliable in any winter weather is correctly carried out air-dry shelter of roses.

Drying the rose garden under a plastic roof.

The bush rose is tilted in front of the shelter.

A rosary prepared for shelter. Hybrid tea roses were cut, supports were installed.

The rose garden is covered with foil for the winter. The vents, covered with lutrasil, were left.