Why the rose does not bloom: we save the queen of the garden. Why the rose does not bloom Climbing rose does not

A rose is a royal flower, even if it is just one rose, but what can be compared to a million roses? ... How to get a really grand, lush, rich bloom, and not just a few buds? Read about it below.

Flowering time for garden roses

Climbing roses (pictured below is a well-known representative of this group - rose) bloom in waves. The start of flowering falls on early summer. Flowering occurs throughout the month, many shoots grow and at the time of flowering the entire bush is strewn with flowers, then a decline, and then flowering again gains strength. And there is also a hybrid of a climbing rose with a hybrid tea - Climber, they bloom 1-2 times per season. Climbing roses of Kordes will bloom until late autumn, as well as.

Climbing rose Rosarium Utterson. Photo from ogorodsadovod.com

Hybrid tea rose begins to bloom from mid-June and continues to bloom until late autumn. Its striking feature is that there are not even the slightest interruptions, flowering continues without pauses.

Thus, it should be distinguished when a rose has taken a natural pause for it (study information about the variety and variety), and when there are some problems in care.

Reasons for the lack of flowers

Here we will look at errors that cannot be solved in one go. The solution to these problems will require cardinal: transplanting, digging, time to restore the plant, studying the literature, etc.

The very first rule is to buy seedlings from trusted gardeners. Since there are varieties that give a small number of flowers, capricious and complex varieties, and no matter how you care for such plants, they will not give abundant flowering.

The main reasons for the lack of flowers:

A weak variety or low-quality seedling was selected for planting. A strong seedling is a plant no older than three years. The seedling must have a developed root system with no signs of decay. The bush should have three to four developed shoots. The bark of the shoot should be green.
Bad light. From roses growing under trees, you should not expect abundant flowers. You may have noticed that the most lush rose bushes can be seen in rose gardens. Bushes are planted in a brightly lit place, which is in the shade for three hours a day - this trick will extend the duration of flowering. From the shady and northern side, they are transplanted to a sunny place - after that, the plant should be given time to adapt.
Incorrectly prepared soil for planting. The soil for planting should be light, well-permeable and at the same time retain air and moisture. In no case should the soil be dense, prone to acidification. In order to improve poor soil, it is dug up with peat, compost, sand, humus, as well as with the addition of other substrates that can make the soil lighter and more nutritious. If there is too much moisture, they tear out drainage grooves or organize drainage.
Insufficient depth when landing- the place of the stock is not deep enough and the shoots of the "wild" take nutrients from the cultivated plant.
The seedlings are planted on the north side, or the place is too windy- this roses do not like;
Incorrect removal or pruning of renewal shoots, poor-quality pruning, ignoring blind shoots. For example, a hybrid tea rose blooms only on the shoots of the current year, and blind shoots (that is, those that do not give flowers) can easily be turned into blooming ones. Recall that pruning roses is almost the most important point in regular care.
Poor bush insulation in winter. After a stressful wintering, the rose needs time to recover, there is no time for flowering. In winter, the bushes are covered with spruce branches, straw, roofing felt or spunbond. To prevent the weight of the snow from breaking the roses, the shelter is placed on special wooden supports or sticks. Roses should be covered when the leaves are completely dry. It is best to cover when the temperature has already reached -3 and no later.

Poor quality seedling. Photo from agronomist.in.ua

Do roses bloom in the first year after planting and when can flowers be expected

Depends on the type of rose and the seedling itself. With proper storage of seedlings in winter, as well as after planting, climbing roses bloom in the first year. As a rule, rambler roses bloom. If the plant did not bloom, the shoots may have been frozen. But even if the rose does not bloom, and this happens for no particular apparent reason, it forms a beautiful bush and will definitely bloom next year - this can be explained by the fact that it needs a set of root and green mass to bloom.

The first flowering also depends on the moment of planting., for example, if the plant was planted in September, then the growth of buds will already be noticed by the beginning of spring, and if the seedling was planted in the spring, then flowering will begin twenty days later, while the care should be more thorough.

After the bush has faded, cut off all flower stalks. It is impossible to allow the wild rose to develop. And you should also cut out all the old shoots, they are not needed and they will not give flowers. 2/3 of all old peduncles should be cut off, leaving 3 shoots each.

A hybrid tea rose with proper pruning can bloom three times a year.

Mistakes in care, as the reason for the lack of flowers

Here we describe the causes that can be eliminated without plant transplants.

There are four global reasons:

Wrong watering. Tea roses require plenty of water. By no means superficial watering, which many novice gardeners sin with! On average, they are watered once abundantly, once every ten days. In hot weather, water once a week for 15 liters in the holes around the bushes. It is best to water in the morning or in the evening, the main thing is that by night the leaves are completely dry from the water. After watering, the earth is mulched. For irrigation use settled or rain water. You can determine the lack of moisture by stopping the growth of shoots, by shedding leaves and crushing flowers.
Rose diseases. The formation of plaque and rot on the stems. To do this, before sheltering in winter, the bush is checked for lesions and all the bad shoots are cut and burned. Sprayed with a solution of 3% vitriol. In the spring, the affected areas are cleaned, a thorough pruning is done, and tetracycline ointment is applied to the scraped areas. In summer, you should look at the bush every two days and cut off the affected areas.
Lack of batteries. To feed the plants use the following elements:
- Nitrogen. Helps the development of leaves and shoots. Dilute 1 tablespoon per ten liters of water;
- Phosphorus. Enhances root growth. You can determine that there is a shortage by looking at the leaves, a spot and brown-purple stripes appear. They feed with superphosphate at the rate of a large spoon per 10 liters of water;
- Potassium. Identified by yellowed leaves. Helps the plant fight fungal diseases. Calculation: a large spoon for ten liters of water;
- Magnesium. Helps photosynthesis. With a shortage, colorless spots appear.
- Iron. Yellowing of the edge of the leaves. With a lack of iron, peat or acidic top dressing is introduced into the soil.
- Bor. With a shortage, shoots die off, the edges of the leaves are bent. For top dressing, ash is scattered near the bush and dug up with the ground.
- Manganese. With insufficient quantity, the veins of the sheets turn yellow. For top dressing, a solution of 0.5% manganese sulfate is prepared.
Excess batteries. This is also the sin of many novice gardeners who take care of their plants diligently, but without understanding what's what, and begin to fertilize everything. Overfeeding inappropriately is just as bad as underfeeding! It is important to understand when and what fertilizers are needed:
- complex - give at the beginning of spring, at the start of growth, during flowering it is useless;
- phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied either in spring or in autumn at the last top dressing;
- nitrogen promotes the growth of green mass, so it is not appropriate at the end of summer and autumn;
- sometimes foliar top dressing may be required (during prolonged rains).

What to do if the roses in the garden do not bloom

The procedure depends on the diagnosis. Which of the above reasons applies to your situation?

In its simplest form, you should act like this:

We choose a trusted seller and a good variety.
The rose must be grafted onto a hardy rootstock.
At the same time, it is better to discard the northern, cold, windy places immediately, choose a bright, warm, calm place for the rose. From buildings or arches, roses are planted 50 cm.
The plant does not bloom in heavy soil, so the soil must be dug up to a meter deep in advance. The earth is saturated with peat, manure or humus. The soil must be nutritious, otherwise where are the lush flowers?
Professional pruning required. As a rule, the crown is sheared with a fan.
After flowering, the lashes and faded shoots are cut off. Feed the soil with potassium and phosphorus. Leaving a rose for the winter, be sure to cover it with a thick film, protect all shoots from rodents.

How to stimulate flowering

It happens that roses still bloom, but not as brightly as we would like. Causes:

Illiterate pruning. Not everyone knows that summer pruning allows you to prolong flowering, there is a popular and very sensible video on the Marina Flowers blog about this (for example, a video from July 9, 2015, “Average pruning of roses after the first flowering - for quick re-blooming”) .
Withered flowers remain on the bush. Attention - this is a fairly common cause of poor flowering! Withered flowers should be removed in time, without pity. In order for the plant to bloom all the time, it is necessary to inspect the bush and cut dry branches and buds daily.

Photo from flowerbank.ru

top dressing

This is actually not such a simple matter. It is difficult to give unambiguous recommendations here, because everyone has different initial conditions. Let's see what practitioners recommend.

A user from the rosebook.ru website recommends fertilizing the plant during pauses with potassium monophosphate and infusion of fermented grass. Forum user stilist advises to fertilize only until mid-July. He believes that a properly planted feeding pit plays a big role in good growth. In the autumn they make a hillock with organic matter, in the spring they feed it with complex fertilizer. Summer pruning required.

And also there is an opinion that top dressing of the bush is obligatory when the first shoots bloom.

The bush should grow at a slight slope, like a hole under the bush, so that water does not stagnate. If a climbing rose does not bloom, pruning is required with the formation of a crown, buds will form on the cut branches. Also, to stimulate, create a microclimate and spray the plant. They dig a pit, a pool to create moisture.

If the bush is in the shade, it should be transplanted to a bright place. If it is hot, water at least once every two days.

From organic matter, gardeners use rotted horse manure, buried in the soil. Nitrogen gives green foliage growth. Phosphorus helps the formation of flower stalks. Magnesium helps bud growth. Iron helps prevent rose diseases. They also use mineral fertilizers for spraying - this is foliar top dressing.

Proper planting of seedlings:

Photo from pseeksy.vepo.com

If you take care of the rose correctly, it will bloom for more than 25 years.

About the correct planting of roses

Deepen the vaccination and by how much exactly? About this - in the blog "Garden World".

Rose is the queen of the garden. But the queen is capricious and often refuses to bloom. Among the causes of this unpleasant phenomenon, there are easily fixable and those that cause a lot of trouble. In any case, it is necessary to quickly deal with the reasons and try to help the plants.

Why don't roses bloom

Not all summer residents plant roses at home: there is a lot of trouble with them. But if you properly deal with agricultural technology, the garden will become much more beautiful. But roses refuse to bloom for many reasons.

Young or old plants

A very young rose, the first year of life, and is not obliged to bloom. It should take root and gain strength, build up the root system. Moreover, if a first-year rose decides to bloom, it is better not to let her do this, to cut off the buds that have appeared.

A too old rose may not bloom either: after all, it is not without reason that plants have to be transplanted from time to time, and between these procedures it is necessary to carry out rejuvenating pruning.

Too old bushes may refuse to bloom

Wrong landing site

Roses are heat-loving plants that do not tolerate drafts, so the location of the bush is of great importance. The rose may refuse to bloom in the shade, in the winds, in places with a close location of groundwater. Perhaps it was even worth planting on an artificial mound, and they can also lead to sad results.

bad soil

Roses bloom well in breathable fertile soils. If the bush is planted in clay, you can not wait for flowering: when planting, it was necessary to ennoble the soil to a depth of at least half a meter, adding sand and various fertilizers.

wild growth

Often flower growers grow varietal roses grafted onto wild roses, usually on wild roses. In such cases, over time, a lot of root shoots form around the bushes, weakening the main bush, taking away nutrition and moisture from it. This can lead to a lack of flowering, so the growth must be systematically removed.

Wild rose shoots often grow near grafted roses.

Incorrect cropping

Roses are pruned annually and according to the rules. Without this procedure, from year to year, flowering worsens and fades. Too strong pruning depletes the bushes, superficial pruning does not allow new strong shoots to form. Pruning should be done with a sharp, clean pruner to prevent accidental infection.

Incorrect watering

Roses require a lot of moisture to bloom, without watering they bloom poorly, and in the extreme case they may not bloom at all. It is best to water roses infrequently, but plentifully, to a great depth. After watering, loosening is required, and better - mulching the soil. As mulch, use any bulk materials used in gardening.

Improper nutrition

Roses must be fed, but the wrong balance of nutrients can prevent flowering. So, with an excess of nitrogen, foliage will grow violently, and you can not wait for flowers.

Freezing or fading

And timely gradual cleaning of covering material in the spring. Shelter should be sufficient to survive frosts, but roses not opened in spring can quickly rot from dampness and refuse to bloom.

In most regions, roses need to be covered for the winter, but be sure to open them on time.

Diseases and pests

Diseases and pests of roses are diverse, and if the plant is weakened, then there will be no talk of any flowering. It is necessary to fight these phenomena in time, spray the bushes with suitable preparations.

How to help plants

Having dealt with the reason for the lack of flowering, we must try to eliminate it. If diseases are not detected, everything is in order with watering and fertilizing, the shoots are cut out, the landing site is ideal, but there are no flowers, you should try to do the following:

cut out extra shoots: the thinnest, growing in the wrong direction, "blind", crooked;
perform stimulating pruning: shoots are cut over a strong leaf or bud;
feed roses with a complex fertilizer with a predominance of potassium; it would be nice to add humates.

Most likely, these simple measures will help you see flowers again.

Video: first aid in the absence of flowering roses

Climbing roses include wild rose species, as well as several varieties of garden roses, branching with fairly long stems. They are directly related to the rosehip genus. And these plants are very popular in vertical gardening of various structures, buildings and walls, as well as arbors. Such flowers are able to decorate both a large structure and a very small one. These plants are widely used to create various structures in the garden, namely, columns, arbors, pyramids, garlands, and arches. And they are wonderfully combined with other plants, in this regard, their popularity is no less than that of a room or spray rose.

There is no general description for this type of plant, because they have many different forms and varieties. However, there is a classification of climbing roses, which has been adopted in international flower growing practice.

First group

Such plants are called climbing roses or rambler roses (Rambler). These flowers have long flexible shoots that are arcuate or creeping. They are painted in a rich green color, and spikes are located on their surface. In length, they can reach more than 500 centimeters. Glossy leathery leaves are small in size. Flowers can be double, semi-double and simple, their diameter, as a rule, does not exceed 25 millimeters. They have a rather weak aroma. The flowers are part of the inflorescences, which are placed along the entire length of the stems. Flowering in such plants is quite abundant, and it lasts a little longer than 4 weeks. Flowering is observed in the first half of the summer period. A very large number of varieties have frost resistance, and such plants are able to overwinter normally even under relatively light shelter. This plant was born thanks to such species as: multi-flowered rose (multiflora) and Vihura rose.

Second group

Climber or large-flowered climbing roses (climers) were bred by breeders by crossing groups of rambler roses with hybrid tea, tea, remontant roses, and also with a floribunda rose. The length of the stems of such climbing roses can reach 400 cm. The flowers are quite large (more than 4 centimeters in diameter), and they are part of small loose inflorescences. Flowering is plentiful. In a large number of varieties, flowering is observed 2 times during the season. Flowers have a shape similar to hybrid tea roses. These flowers are relatively frost-resistant and have resistance to powdery mildew.

Third group

Climbings were formed by large-flowered mutating spray roses, namely: grandiflora, hybrid tea, and floribunda. The difference between such plants and producing species is that they have even more powerful growth and very large flowers (diameter from 4 to 11 centimeters), while they can be either single or part of not very large inflorescences. They also differ in fruiting, which occurs at a later date. Most of the varieties are characterized by repeated flowering. These plants are cultivated only in the southern regions of the temperate zone, where the winter period is relatively warm and mild.

Planting climbing roses in open ground

Absolutely all types of such plants have a very capricious character. The same applies to climbing roses. To plant and care for such a plant, you need to adhere to certain rules. And you should also take into account the advice of experienced flower growers on the cultivation of climbing roses. The choice of a site for landing must be approached with all responsibility. Such plants simply need a site that will be lit by the sun from morning to afternoon. In this case, the dew on the plant can dry out, which will help to avoid the appearance of fungal diseases. At lunchtime, when the sun's rays are the most scorching, this area should be shaded, otherwise burns may appear on the surface of the foliage and petals. Also, a suitable site should have protection from the northeast and north winds, because it is quite cold. It is not recommended to decorate the corner part of buildings with climbing roses. The fact is that the draft present there can destroy a tender plant. For planting such flowers, experts advise choosing a site on the south side of the building. In order to plant climbing roses, you will need a strip of soil only half a meter wide, but it should be noted that any structure, building or plant should be located at a distance of about 50-100 centimeters from such a flower.

Suitable soil must necessarily pass water well. If, on the site chosen for planting, groundwater is very close to the surface, these plants are planted on a special pre-prepared elevation. The roots of this type of roses in some cases can be buried in the ground up to 200 centimeters. In order to prevent stagnation of fluid in the root system, the selected area should be located at least at a not very large slope. Loam is considered ideal for planting climbing roses. If the soil is sandy, then it must be corrected before planting by adding clay when digging, and sand must be added to clay soil. Such plants need soil saturated with nutrients, so the introduction of humus or humus is mandatory. You should also add bone meal to the soil, which is considered an excellent source of phosphorus. Soil preparation must be carried out in advance. Ideally, this should be done 6 months before planting, but preparations can also be made 4 weeks before planting a rose.

If you are going to plant a climbing rose, you must first learn how to choose the highest quality planting material. Nowadays, you can buy seedlings of roses that are own-rooted, as well as those that are grafted onto wild roses. But how are they different? Grafted seedlings have one important difference from own-rooted ones. The fact is that the root system of such a seedling belongs to the wild rose, and on it there is a graft belonging to a varietal climbing rose. In this regard, planting and caring for a self-rooted rose should be somewhat different than for a grafted one. So, for example, a grafted seedling must be buried in the soil when planting in such a way that the place where the graft is located is underground at a depth of 10 centimeters. With this method of planting, the part of the plant that was grafted begins to form its own root system, while the rosehip roots eventually become unnecessary and die off. In the case when, during planting, the scion was not buried in the ground, but remained above its surface, it can lead to the death of the plant. The fact is that the wild rose is a deciduous plant, and the grafted rose is an evergreen. If the planting was carried out in violation of the rules, then such a discrepancy between the stock and scion can lead to the death of the cultural part of the plant.

Seedlings with an open root system must be immersed in a container of water for 1 day, and this should be done immediately before planting in open ground. After that, you should cut off all the leaves and cut off, using a pruner, those stems that are unripe or have been damaged. You should also prune the root system and the aerial part, leaving 30 centimeters each. Places of cuts should be treated with crushed charcoal. If you use grafted seedlings for planting, then they must carefully remove all the buds that are located below the scion. The fact is that rose hips will begin to grow from them. Next, the planting material should be disinfected. To do this, it must be dipped in a solution of copper sulfate (3%).

The hole for planting a rose should measure 50x50. At the same time, a distance of at least 100 centimeters must be observed between the landing pits. The top layer of soil, the most saturated with nutrients, must be removed from the dug hole and connected with ½ of the manure bucket. Part of the resulting earth mixture must be poured into the hole, and then a relatively large amount of water must be poured into it. This procedure should be carried out a day or two before the proposed planting of the plant. On the day when you are going to plant a seedling, you need to prepare a special solution in order to process the root system before planting. To prepare the solution, dissolve 1 tablet of heteroauxin, 3 tablets of phosphorobacterin in 500 ml of water. Then pour this liquid into 9.5 liters of clay mash. Before lowering the seedling into the hole, its roots should be dipped in the prepared mixture. Pour a mixture of soil and manure into the hole with a mound. Then you need to place a seedling in the hole, while carefully straightening its roots. Fill the hole with the same mixture of soil and manure and compact the soil surface well. Do not forget that the place where the vaccine is located should be buried 10 centimeters into the ground. At the same time, in a self-rooted seedling, it is necessary to deepen the root neck by 5 or more centimeters into the ground. The planted plant should be well watered. After the liquid is absorbed into the soil, a mixture of soil and manure will need to be added to the hole. Then the plant spuds to a height of 20 centimeters or more.

Roses planted in autumn overtake those that were planted in open ground in spring. At the same time, the latter need special increased attention to themselves. Before planting seedlings, they should cut the root system to 30 centimeters, and at the same time, the stems must be shortened to 15–20 centimeters. When the plant is planted, it must be well watered and planted high. Then it should be covered with a transparent film on top, while creating something similar to a mini-greenhouse. In these greenhouse conditions, the rose will take root relatively faster. Do not forget to ventilate the seedling every day, for this you need to raise the shelter for a few minutes. Experts advise airing every time for longer and longer, so the rose will also be tempered. After the threat of night frosts is over, it will be possible to remove the shelter completely, and pour a layer of mulch on the surface of the soil in the hole. If the seedling was planted at a time when warm and dry weather was established, then the surface of the holes will need to be sprinkled with a layer of mulch (peat or otherwise).

Caring for climbing roses outdoors

In order for a climbing rose to grow and develop normally, it is necessary to learn how to properly water, feed, and cut the plant. You also need to monitor the health of the rose and destroy pests in time. It is very important to learn how to properly prepare the bushes for wintering. This type of rose needs a reliable support. These plants can easily tolerate drought, and therefore should not be watered abundantly. As a rule, they are watered once every 7 days or per decade, 10–20 liters of water should be poured onto 1 bush. Remember that it is better to water more often, but less. To keep water in the hole around it, it is recommended to build a not very low shaft of soil. When 2–3 days pass from the moment of watering, it will be necessary to loosen the soil surface of the near-stem circle to a depth of 5 to 6 centimeters. This will help retain moisture in the soil, as well as improve airflow to the root system. In order to reduce the number of waterings and practically eliminate the loosening of the soil, it is necessary to cover its surface with a layer of mulch.

Young plants do not need to fertilize the soil until the end of the summer period, since there is a large amount of nutrients in the soil from the moment of planting. At the end of summer, the plant should be fed with a solution of potash fertilizers, this will help the rose prepare for the winter period. In this case, it is recommended to use an infusion prepared on wood ash as a top dressing. In the second year of life, such plants need to apply both mineral and organic fertilizers to the soil, and they should be alternated. And roses of the third and subsequent years of life should be fed only with organic fertilizers. So, a solution consisting of 10 liters of water, 1 liter of manure and 1 tbsp is perfect for this. wood ash. If desired, instead of manure, you can take another organic fertilizer. During the period of intensive growth, climbing roses must be fed 5 times, while it must be taken into account that fertilizers cannot be applied to the soil during the flowering period.

Support for climbing roses

For this type of roses, there is a huge variety of supports. So, as a support, you can use an old dried tree, a wooden, metal or polymer arch or grate, as well as arched rods made of metal. But the best support for such a plant is a building or any structure, but we must remember that plants should be planted at least 50 centimeters away from the wall. On the surface of the wall, it is necessary to fix the guides, for which the shoots of the plant or the lattice will cling. But at the same time, we must not forget that if the stems are located horizontally, then the flowers will grow along their entire length. If they grow vertically, then the flowers will bloom only at the tops of the stems.

In order to fix the stems on the support, you must use a plastic twine. It is forbidden to use wire for these purposes, even wrapped in cloth or a sheet of paper. The shoot must be fixed securely on the support, but so that the fixing material does not damage it. It is necessary to conduct a systematic inspection of plants for the integrity of fixing materials. The fact is that under the weight of the plant itself or from gusts of wind, the twine can break, and in this case there is a risk of significant damage to the rose. Step back from 30 to 50 centimeters from the bush and then dig a support into the ground.

Transplanting climbing roses

An adult rose may need a transplant only when it becomes clear that the place where it grows is completely unsuitable for it. Transplantation is carried out in autumn in September or early November, later this should not be done, since the bush will not have time to take root before the start of the winter period. In some cases, the plant is transplanted in the spring, but this must be done before the buds awaken. Plants must be removed from the supporting structure. In ramblers, young shoots are not removed, but their tops are pinched in the last days of August, which will help them quickly become woody. Cut off stems older than 2 years. All long stems should be shortened by ½ part at climbings and climbers. After that, the bushes must be carefully dug in a circle, while from its center it is necessary to retreat to a distance that is equal to 2 bayonet shovels. It must be remembered that the roots go deep into the soil, and you need to try to dig them out completely, while causing them as little damage as possible. The soil should be shaken off the roots, and then they should be inspected. With the help of a pruner, it is necessary to cut off the shaggy, as well as damaged tips of the roots. Lower the plant into the prepared hole and be sure to straighten the roots. Then fill the hole with soil and compact its surface well. Water the plant well. A few days after transplanting, you need to pour the required amount of soil in order to level the surface of the near-stem circle. At the same time, you need to hill the rose.

Aphids and spider mites can settle on a climbing rose. In the event that aphids on a plant are not very recommended, try to get rid of it using folk remedies. So, you can remove insects from the plant manually. To do this, you need to pinch the part of the plant on which the aphid is located with your fingers and remove it. Don't forget to wear gloves. But this method can be used only at the very beginning of infection. If there are a lot of insects, then manually removing them will be ineffective. In this case, it is recommended to make a soapy solution. Soap should be crushed with a grater, pour into a container where you need to pour water. Let the solution stand as the soap needs time to dissolve. Strain it and treat the plant with a sprayer. If after processing the insects still remain, then you need to buy an insecticidal agent in a special store, which should have a mark “for grapes and roses”. For processing in this case, you need to choose a windless sunny day. Spider mites can settle on a rose only during a dry hot period, and only when the plant is watered very rarely. Such insects live on the wrong side of the leaves. They feed on plant sap and entangle the leaves with a thin cobweb. In an infected rose, the leaves become green-silver. Very often, to destroy such ticks, an infusion prepared on wormwood, shag, yarrow or tobacco is used. 3 days after treatment with this infusion, from 80 to 100 percent of pests should die. To prepare an infusion of wormwood, you need to pour 500 g of freshly picked wormwood into a wooden container. There you need to pour a bucket of cold water. When the mixture is infused for half a month, it is filtered and diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. It is necessary to process both the plant itself and the surface of the soil around it. If you want to get rid of insects in the near future, then you will need to purchase Fitoverm. You can re-treat a couple of weeks after the first. Before proceeding with the processing of this tool, it is necessary to study the instructions attached to it, which indicate the features, as well as the required dosage.

Climbing roses can also be harmed by: cicadas, thrips, rose sawflies, leafworms. However, if you take care of the flower, observing all the rules, then they will not settle on it. As a preventive measure, plant marigolds in the immediate vicinity of the rose, they can protect this plant from most pests. Also in the fall and spring, preventive measures should be taken. To do this, the bushes need to be treated with a sprayer with Bordeaux liquid.

For roses, diseases such as bacterial cancer, gray rot, coniothyrium, powdery mildew, and black spot are of great danger.

On the surface of the plant, growths of different sizes appear very soft and tuberculate. After a while they become harder and darker. This leads to drying and death of the plant. Such a disease cannot be cured. During the acquisition of seedlings, you need to carefully examine them, and before planting them, you need to disinfect the root system by immersing it for 2-3 minutes. in a solution of copper sulfate (3%). If there are signs of the disease on an adult plant, the affected parts must be cut off immediately, while the sections must be treated with the same three percent solution.

This disease is fungal, which is considered a burn of the cortex or cancer. You can see that the plant is sick in the spring, after the shelter has been removed. Spots of a brownish-red color can be seen on the surface of the bark, which eventually turn black and turn into rings around the stem. These stems should be cut off immediately, while capturing some of the unaffected tissue, and destroyed to prevent the spread of the disease. For preventive purposes, in autumn, nitrogen fertilizer should be changed to potash, which will make rose tissues stronger. And during thaws, it is imperative to ventilate the plants by raising the shelter.

A whitish tinge appears on parts of the roses, which gradually turns brown. The appearance of such a disease can be provoked by high humidity, a sharp change in temperature, an excessive amount of nitrogen in the soil, and violations of irrigation rules. Parts of the rose that are affected by the disease must be cut and destroyed. Next, the plant should be treated using a solution of copper sulfate (2%) or iron sulfate (3%).

Dark brownish-red spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which are bordered by a yellow rim. Over time, they merge with each other and cause the death of the leaf plate. For preventive purposes, it is necessary to apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizer under the root in the fall. And it will also require a three-stage treatment of the plant itself and the soil near it with a solution of Bordeaux mixture (3%) or iron sulfate (3%). Breaks between treatments are 7 days.

Able to destroy almost all parts of the plant (buds, leaves, shoots). Such a rose loses its beauty, and its flowering becomes relatively scarce. With a strongly frolicking disease, the rose should be dug up and burned. If the disease has just appeared, then it is recommended to treat the bush with a solution prepared from 5 liters of water and 50 g of Bordeaux liquid. In order to cure the plant completely, as a rule, 4 treatments may be needed, the interval between which should be 7 days.

It happens that a seemingly healthy and well-developed climbing rose does not bloom. The point here may not be a disease at all, but that a seedling of poor quality (weakly flowering) was purchased, and besides, an inappropriate place was chosen for it, and the soil, too, most likely, is not quite suitable for this plant. And it also happens that last year's stems are damaged during wintering.

When to prune climbing roses

These plants need pruning, since it is she who allows you to form a beautiful crown, make flowering more abundant, and along the entire height of the bush, improve its decorative qualities. If you cut the plant correctly, then it will delight with its flowering throughout the entire period of intensive growth. Vegetative stems deserve special attention, since most of the flowers are formed on last year's stems. Cut the rose should be in the spring or autumn. At the very beginning of the period of intensive growth, absolutely all climbing roses need to remove dead stems, as well as areas that have been frostbitten. And also cut off the tips of the stems to the strongest outer bud. The following pruning procedures will be directly related to how many times a particular rose blooms, one or more.

In those plants in which flowering is observed 1 time per season, flowers grow on last year's stems. Basal (faded) stems replace recovery shoots, which can grow up to 10 pieces. Flowers will grow on them only next year. In this regard, faded shoots will need to be removed by cutting them out at the root, while this procedure is recommended to be carried out in autumn during preparation for wintering. Those climbing roses that bloom several times a season, blooming branches of different orders grow on the main stems for 3 years - from 2 to 5. In the fifth year of life of these stems, their flowering becomes more scarce. In this regard, at the beginning of the spring period, the main shoots must be removed, cut to the ground, and this should be done in the fourth year of their life. Repeat flowering bushes should have 3 annual recovery stems and 3-7 flowering stems that are the main ones. But at the same time, it must be remembered that in most of these roses, flowers form on overwintered stems, therefore, in spring, only the upper part with buds, which are underdeveloped, should be cut off from them.

Young roses that have been grafted and planted in the past or this year need special attention. Until the rose has its own root system, you will have to systematically remove the rose hips. After 1–2 years (after the death of the root system of the wild rose), rose shoots will begin to appear.

Reproduction of climbing roses

It can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, layering, and grafting. It is easier to do this by layering and cuttings. Seeds must be purchased at a specialized store. If you want to sow the seeds that were collected from roses by you, then you must understand that such plants do not retain the varietal characteristics of the mother plant, and therefore you can grow anything.

The seeds must be folded into a sieve and immersed for 30 minutes in a container filled with hydrogen peroxide. Thus, disinfection of the seed is carried out, as well as the prevention of mold formation during further stratification. Moisten cotton pads with hydrogen peroxide and place seeds on them. Put the same moistened cotton pads on top of them. Each resulting "sandwich" should be placed in a separate bag of polyethylene. Sign the date and name of the variety, and then put the seeds in a container in the refrigerator designed to store vegetables. There needs to be a systematic review. Moreover, if mold is found, then the seeds must be washed and again kept in hydrogen peroxide. The fleece is replaced with fresh ones, and the seeds are again placed in the refrigerator. After 6-8 weeks, the seeds that should sprout should be planted in peat tablets or separate small pots, while they should be sprinkled with a layer of mulch on top, which should be taken as perlite, this will help to avoid the "black leg" disease. Provide the plants with at least 10 hours of daylight and timely watering as the substrate dries out. If the plant develops normally, then 8 weeks after planting, they will have buds, and after 4-6 weeks the plant will bloom. You can fertilize with a weak solution of complex fertilizer. In the spring, they are planted in open soil, and then they are looked after, like adult roses.

Cuttings are the simplest method of propagation, which gives a good result. For cuttings, you can use both faded stems and flowering ones. They need to be cut from the second half of June to the first days of August. The lower oblique cut must be made directly under the kidney, while the angle of the cut is 45 degrees. The top cut should be straight and located as high as possible above the kidney. There should be at least 2 internodes on the handle. The lower leaves must be cut off, and those on top should be shortened by ½ part. It is planted to a centimeter depth in a soil mixture consisting of sand and earth, or in sand. Cover it on top with a glass jar or a cut plastic bottle. Store in a well-lit area, out of direct sunlight. Watering is done without removing the shelter. Treatment with an agent that accelerates the growth of the roots of a cutting cut can be useful only when the variety has a long rooting.

In the spring, an incision is made in the shoot above the bud. Then it must be placed in the prepared groove, the depth and width of which should be from 10 to 15 centimeters. At the bottom of the groove, you must first pour a layer of humus and fill it with soil from above. Escape is fixed in several places. Then it is covered with soil so that the upper part rises above the soil surface. Layering needs systematic watering. After the onset of the next spring period, the cuttings should be cut off from the parent plant and planted in a new place.

Grafting climbing roses

Budding is the grafting of a cultivated rose eye on a rosehip rhizome. This must be done from the last days of July to the last days of August. Before grafting, the wild rose should be thoroughly watered, after which an incision in the shape of the letter T should be made on the root neck of the stock. The bark should be pry off and slightly torn off the wood. From the cutting of a rose, you need to cut an eye along with part of the bark and wood. Then it is placed tightly in the prepared incision and very tightly rewound this place with an occult film. Then it is necessary to hill the wild rose so that the soil rises above the grafting site by at least 5 centimeters. After half a month, the bandage is slightly loosened, and the next spring it is removed altogether.

Features of care after flowering

What to do when the roses have faded

With the beginning of the autumn period, you should start preparing roses for the winter period. From the last days of August, you need to completely stop watering and loosening the earth and start feeding with potassium instead of nitrogen. The upper part of the unripened stems must be removed. Such roses must be covered for the winter, but first they are removed from the supporting structure and placed on the surface of the soil. It is very easy to lay a young plant on the ground. It is not easy to lay an adult specimen on the ground, and it can take up to 7 days. It must be remembered that at sub-zero temperatures, the shoots become brittle and can break.

You need to cover the plant when the air temperature drops below minus 5 degrees. This should not be done earlier, because the flowers must be hardened, and they may also begin to rot or grow (which is associated with a long stay under cover without air). Shelter should be made in non-rainy calm weather. From the removed shoots, it is necessary to remove the leaves, cut off the damaged stems, tie the whips using a rope, and then carefully place them on the bedding. To create it, you can use dry leaves or spruce branches. Do not place the plant on bare soil. Press or fix the plant on the surface of the soil, and cover it with dry leaves or grass on top, and you can also use spruce branches. The base of the bush should be sprinkled with soil or sand, and then cover the plant with lutrasil, polyethylene film, roofing felt or other material that can not get wet. Between the plant and the shelter should remain a layer of air.

winter care

With the onset of a thaw in the winter, you need to raise the shelter for a very short time. Plants benefit from fresh air in winter. But you should not remove the leaves or spruce branches. When the real spring begins to come, the shelter must be removed, otherwise the plants may start to hurt. The spruce branches will save the roses from freezing.

Varieties of climbing roses with photos and names

The most popular varieties are listed below.

Ramblers (small-flowered climbing roses)

In height, such a vigorous variety can reach 800 cm, while the crown has a width of up to 300 cm. Rich green leaves are almost invisible due to the many creamy white flowers, the diameter of which is 4–5 centimeters. They smell like musk. You need a lot of free space and reliable support. Not afraid of frost.

Ramblin Rector

Five-meter lashes adorn light green leaf plates. Semi-double cream flowers are quite small. They are 40 pieces are part of large inflorescences in the form of a brush. When exposed to the sun, they fade to a white color. Such a plant is also cultivated as a bush.

Bushes of two meters in height and width are decorated with double flowers, painted in rich crimson color, which are collected in racemose inflorescences. It blooms until the end of the summer period, but the bright color fades in the sun. It is frost-resistant and not susceptible to infection with powdery mildew.

Claimings and climbers (large-flowered varieties)

The height of an upright, vigorous bush reaches 250 cm, and a width of 150 cm. The diameter of densely double flowers is 14 centimeters. They are painted white with a greenish tinge and smell like fruits. Flowering until the end of the summer period. Has disease resistance.

A four-meter bush is decorated with dark green carved leaves and semi-double velvety large ones (diameter 8–10 centimeters). They have a rich red color. Not afraid of frost, resistant to diseases. Blooms several times per season.

The height of the bush can exceed 200 centimeters. Glossy leaves have a dark green color, and double large (diameter 12 centimeters) flowers are apricot. During the season, flowering is observed 2 or 3 times. Has resistance to powdery mildew. Good shelter is needed for wintering.

A vigorous three-meter bush has a one and a half meter diameter. The leaves are dense dark green. Terry lilac large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) and fragrant flowers are part of the inflorescences. It grows fast and blooms several times a season. Disease resistant.

Cordes hybrids (they are not distinguished into a separate group, but are classified as ramblers)

The fragrant tall plant has a diameter of 100 cm and a height of 300 cm. Racemes consist of double large (up to 10 cm in diameter) flowers of a dark pink color. Flowering is observed 2 times per season. It is resistant to powdery mildew and blackleg.

The bush has many shoots, and its height is 350 centimeters. Racemose inflorescences consist of semi-double large (diameter up to 10 centimeters) flowers, painted in a yellowish-golden color. They smell strongly of fruit. Flowering is observed twice per season.

I don’t know myself, I found it on the internet, maybe you can figure out your reason:
1. Improperly selected or cultivated soil
Roses love fertile, loose soil, so soil that is too dense and heavy is unlikely to work. If, nevertheless, the choice is small, and a place with depleted soil is chosen, then it is worthwhile to approach the issue of feeding more carefully. An obligatory stage in preparing the hole for planting is loosening the soil to a depth of 50-70 cm, it is to this depth that the roots of the rose grow.

2. The wrong place

Roses love open spaces, well lit by the sun and protected from the wind. In the shade and in a draft, these fragile flowers will not only not bloom, but will generally develop very slowly.

3. Insufficient watering

Roses are drought tolerant, but plants will devote all their energy to maintaining viability, and not to flowering. Therefore, in the hot time of the day, the soil around the bushes should be regularly moistened.

4. Poorly endured wintering

A rose bush can stop the development and formation of buds if it has not wintered well, it has frozen. Therefore, you need to approach this issue very responsibly, starting preparations even before the season of prolonged rains, otherwise the bush will pick up moisture.

5. Incorrect cropping

This is a whole science, and for different groups and varieties of roses there are certain rules. For example, if roses bloom a second time, you need to remove the upper part of the shoot with a dried flower, cutting it obliquely and leaving 5-8 mm above the next eye. Caution should be done on climbing roses of the Rambler group, which bloom only on last year's shoots, removing only the frozen ends of the lashes - then you will not have to wonder why the rose does not bloom.

Periodically, old bushes need to be rejuvenated, also pruning according to the rules, removing thin and weak branches, as well as old stiff lashes, leaving 3-5 strong lashes.

6. "Wild" rose bush

Since most of the roses in our area are grafted, and not rooted, you can skip and not remove the wild shoots from the rootstock, the bush on which the cultivated rose sprout is grafted, in time. These wild whips gradually weaken the plant, and the rose can easily lose its varietal qualities. It is very easy to recognize the insidious growth: it grows from below, the leaves are smaller, a large number of thorns. As soon as you see something like this, tear up the ground and cut off the branch at the very base.7.

7. Incorrect feeding or overfeeding

Sometimes a rose bush instead of flowers begins to violently form lush foliage and actively grow up. This, in most cases, is a consequence of an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. This is corrected by the introduction of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers or simply ash, but the effect will not be immediately noticeable.

We hope that the analyzed situations will help you avoid mistakes and now you already know exactly why the rose does not bloom.

Sometimes even experienced flower growers find it difficult to say why a rose does not bloom. Knowing the basic rules for caring for a beautiful flower will allow you to enjoy its magnificence of colors and delicious aroma.

When breeding roses, you need to be prepared for the fact that theoretical recommendations from specialists and the real situation in practice may have some discrepancies between them. Therefore, it is very difficult for even experienced flower growers to determine why a rose does not bloom. The reason for the lack of buds on the bush can be both insufficient air humidity, impurities in the soil, the composition of local water, and insufficient knowledge of the basics of caring for this beautiful flower. Let's analyze the main mistakes of flower growers. Read about

The rose does not bloom: the wildness of the bush

In most cases, growing roses in our area are grafted, not own-rooted. Therefore, you may not notice the appearance of wild shoots from the rootstock of a bush on which a cultivated rose is grafted. Such wild shoots weaken the bush, and it gradually loses its varietal properties. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to remove this insidious growth, which is located at the very bottom, in a timely manner. It is easy to identify by very small leaves and a large number of thorns. As soon as you see such a whip, tear the earth and boldly cut it off at the very base.

Soil quality

Often a rose does not bloom due to unsuitable soil structure or improper processing. To prevent this from happening, you should not plant it in dense, heavy soil. To obtain a lighter composition, sand can be added under the bush and carefully loosened to a depth of 5-7 cm.

Fertilization

The reason why a rose does not bloom on the site may be a lack or excess of fertilizers applied to the soil. The main sign of an excess of nitrogen fertilizing is the active growth upwards of lush foliage without the formation of buds. You can correct the situation by applying phosphorus-potassium fertilizer or ash.

The menu of roses should include top dressing of low concentration from infusion of liquid organic matter or mineral fertilizers. Nutrient mixtures are applied alternately, alternating them every two weeks.

Pruning a rose bush

The purpose of pruning a bush is to rejuvenate it, which allows you to increase the abundance of flowering. The event is held every spring, thereby ridding the plant of weak, diseased and unproductive shoots, and the rest to receive impulses for further development.

First of all, when pruning, all weak, diseased branches damaged by frost and diseases are removed. Next, cut off the shoots that are directed inside the bush.

This will ensure ventilation of the inside of the rose and eliminate the possible accumulation of pests and fungal diseases.

Next, all unproductive shoots are removed, which include branches older than 3 years. They are easily identified by their strongly lignified trunk and dark color. It is on such branches that in most cases buds do not appear, since their vessels have lost their elasticity and are completely clogged with salts. The remaining shoots are shortened in accordance with the rose variety. Pruning can be done up to 3-4 buds (short), 5-7 buds (moderate) and up to 8 buds (weak).

Wintering rose bush

Also, the rose does not bloom as a result of improper wintering. To avoid freezing and exposure to moisture before the onset of cold weather, the rose bush should be covered with rotted peat, covered with protective material or fallen leaves. Also, experienced gardeners make special polystyrene foam cones and cover plants with them.

In addition to the above reasons, when choosing a variety, pay attention to its features. Since the reason why the rose does not bloom may be that the conditions of your site do not match for its full development.