Roses - planting and growing beautiful flowers. Features of planting a climbing rose in spring in open ground

Our grandmothers, growing strawberries, or strawberries, as we used to call them, were not particularly worried about mulching. But today this agricultural practice has become fundamental in achieving high quality berries and reducing crop losses. Some might say it's troublesome. But practice shows that labor costs in this case pay off handsomely. In this article, we invite you to get acquainted with the nine the best materials for mulching garden strawberries.

Succulents are very versatile. Despite the fact that “kids” have always been considered more fashionable, the assortment of succulents with which you can decorate modern interior, it is worth taking a closer look. After all, colors, sizes, patterns, degree of pricklyness, influence on the interior are just a few of the parameters by which you can choose them. In this article, we will talk about the five most fashionable succulents that surprisingly transform modern interiors.

Mint was used by the Egyptians as far back as 1.5 thousand years BC. It has a strong aroma due to the high content of various essential oils with high volatility. Today, mint is used in medicine, perfumery, cosmetology, winemaking, cooking, ornamental gardening, and the confectionery industry. In this article, we will consider the most interesting varieties of mint, and also talk about the features of growing this plant in open ground.

People began to grow crocuses 500 years before the advent of our era. Although the presence of these flowers in the garden is fleeting, we always look forward to the return of the heralds of spring next year. Crocuses - one of the earliest primroses, whose flowering begins as soon as the snow melts. However, the timing of flowering may vary depending on the species and varieties. This article focuses on the earliest varieties of crocuses that bloom in late March and early April.

Shchi from early young cabbage in beef broth is hearty, fragrant and easy to prepare. In this recipe, you will learn how to cook delicious beef broth and cook light cabbage soup with this broth. Early cabbage cooks quickly, so it is placed in the pan at the same time as the rest of the vegetables, unlike autumn cabbage, which takes a little longer to cook. Ready cabbage soup can be stored in the refrigerator for several days. Real cabbage soup is tastier than freshly cooked.

Looking at the variety of varieties of tomatoes, it is difficult not to get confused - the choice is very wide today. He sometimes confuses even experienced gardeners! However, it is not so difficult to understand the basics of selecting varieties “for yourself”. The main thing is to understand the peculiarities of culture and start experimenting. One of the easiest tomato groups to grow are varieties and hybrids with limited growth. They have always been appreciated by those gardeners who do not have much time and energy to care for the beds.

Once very popular under the name of indoor nettles, and then forgotten by everyone, coleuses today are one of the most striking garden and indoor plants. They are not in vain considered stars of the first magnitude for those who are looking primarily for non-standard colors. Easy to grow, but not so undemanding as to suit everyone, coleus require constant supervision. But if you take care of them, bushes of velvety unique leaves will easily outshine any competitor.

Salmon backbone baked in Provence herbs is a “supplier” of delicious pieces of fish pulp for a light salad with fresh wild garlic leaves. Mushrooms are lightly fried in olive oil, and then poured with apple cider vinegar. Such mushrooms are tastier than ordinary pickled ones, and they are better suited for baked fish. Ramson and fresh dill coexist perfectly in one salad, emphasizing the flavor of each other. Garlic sharpness of wild garlic will saturate both the flesh of salmon and pieces of mushrooms.

Conifer tree or a shrub on the site is always great, and a lot of conifers is even better. Emerald needles of various shades decorate the garden at any time of the year, and phytoncides and essential oils, secreted by plants, not only flavor, but also make the air cleaner. Generally, most zoned adults coniferous plants, are considered very unpretentious trees and shrubs. But young seedlings are much more capricious and require competent care and attention.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics under the shade of flowering trees have long become an essential attribute of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year here begins on April 1, when magnificent cherry blossoms bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese pass under the sign of their flowering. But sakura also grows well in cooler regions - certain types can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

It is very interesting for me to analyze how people's tastes and preferences for certain foods have changed over the centuries. What was once considered tasty and traded lost its value over time and, conversely, new fruit crops conquered their markets. Quince has been cultivated for more than 4 thousand years! And even in the 1st century BC. e. about 6 varieties of quince were known and even then the methods of its reproduction and cultivation were described.

Make your family happy and make themed Easter egg-shaped cottage cheese cookies! Your children will be happy to take part in the process - they will sift the flour, combine all the necessary ingredients, knead the dough and cut out intricate figures. Then they will watch with admiration as the pieces of dough turn into real ones. Easter eggs, and then with the same enthusiasm they will eat them with milk or tea. How to make such original cookies for Easter, read in our step by step recipe!

There are not so many decorative and deciduous favorites among tuberous crops. And the caladium is a true star among the variegated inhabitants of the interiors. Not everyone can decide to start a Caladium. This plant is demanding, and first of all - to care. But still, the rumors about the unusual capriciousness of the Caladium never justify. Attention and care allow you to avoid any difficulties when growing caladiums. And a plant can almost always forgive small mistakes.

We have prepared a hearty, incredibly appetizing and simply elementary dish for you today. This gravy is one hundred percent universal, as it will suit every side dish: vegetables, pasta, and anything. Gravy with chicken and mushrooms will save you in moments when there is no time or you don’t want to think too much about what to cook. Grab your favorite side dish (you can make this ahead of time to keep it all hot), add gravy and dinner is ready! A real lifesaver.

Among the many different varieties of these top-selling vegetables, here are three that excel in flavor and relatively undemanding growing conditions. Characteristics of eggplant varieties "Diamond", "Black Handsome" and "Valentina". All eggplants have a medium density pulp. In "Almaz" it is greenish, and in the other two it is yellowish-white. They are united good germination and excellent yield, but at different times. Everyone's skin color and shape is different.

The category "climbing roses" includes some types of rose hips and varieties garden roses, which have relatively long shoots, which affects the use cases in landscape design. Spring planting of climbing roses is most preferable in central Russia, including the Moscow region and surrounding areas.

Features of cultivation

These plants blend perfectly with almost any type of small architectural forms., they have become indispensable when decorating such landscape elements as columns, pyramids, arched and trellis structures.

In recent years, climbing roses have been actively used for green decoration of walls, balconies and arbors. As a rule, botanical features and rather high requirements for temperature conditions suggest the cultivation of climbing roses in regions with a mild and relatively warm climate.

When grown in the soil and climatic conditions of the middle zone and the Moscow region, regardless of the variety, climbing roses must be removed from the supporting structures and covered on winter period.

The main types of climbing roses

It should be remembered that "climbing" is a feature of the development of shoots, so there is currently no official classification of climbing roses. However, so that there is no confusion, in the conditions of backyard floriculture, it is customary to distinguish between several varieties:

Category of climbing roses, or rambler roses. A feature of Rambler is the presence of long creeping or arcuate, rather flexible stems of bright green color. Average length such a spiky shoot can exceed 4–5 m. The foliage is leathery, relatively small and with a pronounced gloss. Flowers with a faint fragrance simple type, can be semi-double or double, are collected in inflorescences along the entire length of the shoot. Flowering is abundant, but not too long.
Category of climbing, or climbing, climber roses. Climber, or climbing, large-flowered roses, are characterized abundant flowering. As a rule, the plants are large-flowered, and the inflorescences are of a loose type. Re-flowering is often observed. The group is characterized by relative winter hardiness and is very resistant to powdery mildew.
Claim category, or Climbing, is represented by mutating large-flowered spray roses, characterized by stronger growth processes and the formation of very large flowers, located on the plant singly or in small inflorescences. The varieties of this group are very thermophilic and suitable for cultivation in the southern regions.

Regardless of the category and variety, it is very important to choose the right site for planting and growing climbing roses.

Climbing roses: landing (video)

Location selection

The plot prepared for the cultivation of climbing roses must necessarily meet certain requirements:

the absence of moisture stagnation and cold air masses in the landing area;
the presence of sufficient illumination, but without prolonged exposure to the scorching rays of the sun;
protection from cold north or northeast winds, as well as drafts;
the presence of moisture-permeable and well-warmed up by the sun soil;
lack of close occurrence of groundwater;
the soil on the site should be fertile enough, it is better if it is loamy soil.

Most comfortable conditions for the cultivation of such varieties of roses can be represented by just the south side of any building. For cultivation, it is enough to allocate a plot of soil that does not exceed 50–60 cm in width. The standard distance from the foundation base to the planting pit should also be approximately 0.5–0.7 m.

Rules and terms of landing and transfer

Planting or transplanting roses of climbing varieties can be done both in spring and in autumn period. Most experienced amateur flower growers agree that it is more correct to transplant or plant young plants in open ground in the spring, when the temperature is warm enough and comfortable for a flowering crop.

before planting young plants, a complete cleaning of the site from weeds should be carried out;
very important to implement pre-landing preparation soil through deep digging and the introduction of basic fertilizers;
planting pits must be large enough to freely accommodate the root system of the rose;
when planting, it is required to deepen the root neck of the plant by about 8-10 cm;
after planting or transplanting, abundant irrigation measures are carried out, followed by mulching of the tree trunks.

In temperate climatic conditions, it is best to plant and transplant roses from the last decade of September to mid-October. It is allowed to plant roses in spring period, approximately from mid-April to the end of May. As soon as the air temperature on the street reaches 12–14 ° C, you can safely carry out planting work or transplanting an already adult rose bush.

Further care technology

To get a profusely flowering and long-lasting ornamental culture, it is required to provide the climbing rose with the most competent and high-quality care, regardless of the stage of plant development:

fertile loams are the most the best option soil for growing flower arrangements with climbing roses, and when using a different type of soil, it is imperative to carry out pre-planting sand or manure, and when further care pay special attention to the fertilization of flower culture;
in addition to using organic compounds based on humus and humus for plant nutrition, it is useful to use special types soil bacteria, as well as basic phosphorus-containing fertilizers;
top dressing must be accompanied by abundant watering with settled or rain water;

in order to form a lush and fully flowering bush, it is necessary to regularly remove all damaged and diseased branches, and old shoots can be cut only if there are young replacement shoots;
it is important to remember that two-year-old shoots should not be pruned, and one-year-old branches are removed only if there are signs of degeneration or disease damage to the plant;
abundant pruning is carried out exclusively in the early spring, since the event held at a later date will not allow the shoots to ripen before the onset of significant frosts;
several times during the season, preventive treatment of the aerial part of the ornamental culture is applied.

How to prepare climbing roses for winter (video)

Particular importance in the cultivation of climbing roses is given to the use of supporting structures. In the role of a support for a rose bush, arches or a variety of fence configurations can be used. In the conditions of backyard floriculture, you can grow climbing varieties on pergolas or special support pillars. The choice of support structure largely depends on the characteristics of the landscape and the personal preferences of the grower.

Ornamental shrubs are planted in spring and autumn. Autumn planting of roses is preferable, but in this case it is difficult to guess with the weather. It is easier to get seedlings in spring, so planting roses in spring is used more often.

planting material

In the spring, seedlings of three types are sold.

with open roots. In this case, already in the store, you can choose an instance with a strong root system. open seedling dries up at home in a matter of days, so after buying it, it is lowered into the water, where it should lie for at least a night, and only after that they start planting.
Seedlings in bags with roots packed in peat. After the purchase, the package is cut, the roots twisted into a ring are released, straightened with their hands and proceed to planting.
Seedlings in pots. Before planting, the seedling is removed from the container and the earth is shaken off the roots.

Flower seedlings begin to sell in early spring, in February-March, long before the planting of roses in the ground begins. It is better to keep them until planting in the garden. They are taken out to the garden early and dug in a light penumbra in a high place, free from melt water. A seedling with unawakened buds in the spring in a prikop withstands up to minus 8 degrees.

Dig a trench and lay the seedlings at an angle of 45 degrees. The roots are whole, and the shoots are half covered with earth, leaving only the tips of the branches outside. In spring, they can stay in this position for up to a month. They are taken out of the dig before landing, as needed, and immediately planted in the landing pits.

Planting climbing roses, standard and spray roses in the spring is carried out in the same way. At the seedling, before planting, the tips of the roots are cut off (so that they branch better) and the cuts are refreshed. Sometimes the above-ground part is covered with wax. It is better to remove it before planting, otherwise it will melt in the bright spring sun and damage the bark. To accelerate the survival rate, seedlings are soaked in a growth stimulant before planting: sodium humate, epine, heteroauxin.

A pit for planting is prepared enough big size, given that the plant grows strongly in diameter, and is generously seasoned with organic matter, as flowers love good nutrition.
The soil in the planting hole must be rich nutrients. The mechanical composition of the soil is very important. If the soil is clayey, a little sand is added along with organic matter, and if sandy, clay.
It is better to prepare the pit in advance - from autumn or two weeks before disembarkation. It is necessary that the earth has time to settle, otherwise the seedling will “pull” deep into. Landing is dry and wet. In the first case, the roots are lowered into the pit, covered and watered. In the second, the pit is first filled with water, then the roots are lowered into this “porridge” and covered with a dry mixture from above.
In both cases, the roots must be straightened along the bottom of the pit. The seedling is watered immediately after planting. If it is “pulled” down after watering, then it is pulled out a little.
After planting, lightly spud with compost to retain moisture in the shoots until rooting. 10-15 days after planting, the compost must be raked off, otherwise the plant will move to its own roots. The first buds are pinched off so that the still insufficiently rooted plant does not waste energy on flowering.

As a rule, grafted plants are grown in culture. When planting, the graft should be buried no more than 2-3 cm into the ground. If the graft is at the top, then shoots will break through from the roots, which will later turn out to be an ordinary wild rose.

Stories about how a rose “reborn” in a few years are connected precisely with the wrong position of the graft during planting. If the vaccination is deepened, then the shrub will grow its own roots and will grow much worse, it will begin to freeze.

Important! A rose graft is a place on a seedling from which shoots grow.

rose care

Care for roses in spring begins with the removal of shelters. Opening time depends on the weather. It is impossible to give an exact date, even within the same region, the dates may differ by two weeks. If the plants were covered with a film or covering material, they must be removed as soon as possible - otherwise the roses may get wet, which is much more dangerous than spring freezing.

The bushes are straightened, lifted from the soil. If there is white mold at the base of the bush, then you should not worry - it will disappear in a few weeks. Snow mold affects damaged shoots - that is, it is not the cause of death, but its consequences.

It is much worse if in the spring a fluffy gray mold is found at the base of the bush (correctly called it " gray rot”), as it indicates decay. Branches damaged by gray rot are cut out to healthy tissue, and the core of the bush is plentifully sprinkled.

Bushes slightly covered with mold can be treated with copper-containing preparations: oxychome, blue vitriol. Also, the propped branch can have olive color. Over time, such an escape will either come to life, or freeze in growth and wither.

It is better not to raise standard and climbing plants in spring immediately after opening, because in the bright spring sun they can dry out in a matter of days - it is better to leave them to lie on the ground for another week or two.

Immediately after opening, proceed to the primary pruning. Dry, frozen shoots in winter are cut with secateurs. They can be distinguished from living ones by their black color. Having cut off the shoot, you need to look at the cut - if the core turns out to be brown, then the shoot is frozen, and it is cut to the place where the light core appears.

On the shoot, frost cracks can be found - vertical ruptures of the bark. If there are few of them, then the branch is left. But if the tissue around the crack has darkened, this indicates that an infection has already penetrated the wound - then the branch is cut off.

An infectious burn may appear on the shoot - black spots in a raspberry border, which in severe cases completely ring the escape. An infectious burn does not appear immediately, but a week or two after opening the bush. Such shoots are also cut out.

Climbing roses - spring care

Care for climbing roses that have overwintered poorly is pruning: all damaged shoots are cut as short as possible using a lopper or pruner. They try to remove everything dead and sick from the bush to the maximum. Sometimes, after spring pruning, not a single shoot remains on the rose. In this case, the grafting site is vacated on the stump, raking the soil - this is done so that the buds sleeping under the bark wake up faster.

If there are lagging areas of the bark on the stump, you can make a kind of peeling - peel them off with your hands and pruners. After cleansing, the grafting to accelerate the growth of rose buds creates conditions of high humidity. For this, the stump is covered with a cropped plastic bottle. New buds can wake up even in June, so the bottle is not removed until mid-summer and even until autumn - there is always a chance that the plant will wake up and come to life.

In the spring, all plant residues with pathogens are removed from the flower garden. Spring cleaning of the soil from last year's leaves and branches will relieve many troubles in the summer. Collected leaves are best not to lay in the compost, they are burned so as not to spread the disease.

In the spring, the earth in the flower garden should be loosened and even dug up with a pitchfork, since it has caked over the winter, air exchange has been disturbed in it. At this time, weeds are actively growing, and digging will get rid of them. The queen of flowers does not like competition very much, so caring for her involves keeping the soil clean.

After the first loosening in the spring, it is time to feed. To do this, use rotted manure, compost or nitrogen-containing mineral fertilizers. Organics or fats are simply scattered on the surface of the soil and once again loosened with a narrow rake. During the winter, the position of the graft relative to the soil level may change and this needs to be corrected: add soil to the stem or, conversely, rake it.

Climbing roses have shoots that are several meters long. The flowers are white, pink, red, yellow from 2.5 to 9 cm, simple to semi-double, odorless, collected in inflorescences. Flowering is long, begins in June.

When describing climbing roses, it should be noted that they occupy one of the leading places in vertical gardening, go well with small architectural forms, are indispensable for creating decorative columns, pyramids, arches, tapestries, green decoration of the walls of buildings, balconies, arbors.

There are so many varieties of climbing roses that would take a lot of time and space to describe. However, according to the nature of growth, these roses can be divided into three groups:

Curly - from 5 m to 15 m high.
Climbing height - from 3 m to 5 m.
Semi-climbing height - from 1.5 m. - 3 m.

The formation of shoots in climbing roses is continuous, due to which the phases of flowering and budding are very extended. The total duration of flowering is from 30 to 170 days. Among the re-blooming roses, a group of large-flowered, or Climings, stands out for decorativeness.

Growing climbing roses

Choosing a place for planting and growing. For cultivation it is necessary to choose sunny and ventilated places. Roses are photophilous plants, so it is best to plant them on the walls and supports of the southern and southwestern exposure. Preference should still be given to the southern exposure; good lighting helps the growth ripen, on which flowering will occur next year.

Groundwater should be no higher than 70-100 cm, optimally 100-150 cm. In swampy, damp places prone to flooding, these flowers cannot be grown.

When choosing a place to plant, be sure to think about how you will lay the plants on the ground for shelter for the winter. Climbing roses grow to a height of more than 2.5 m. When laid for the winter, they should not “cover” other plants that do not require shelter.

What should be the soil. For the cultivation of climbing roses, fertile, loose, moderately moist soil with a fertile layer of at least 30 cm is required. And so, in the place of the future rose garden, it is necessary to prepare the soil: for this purpose, it is better to use rotted manure (cow), if the soil is too heavy, you need to add sand, peat, which will give the soil friability.

Selection of seedlings. The seedling should have 2-3 well-ripened lignified shoots with green intact bark and developed root system with many thin roots (lobe). The root neck of a seedling at the age of 1-2 years looks like a slight thickening separating the wild stock and the stem of the cultivated plant.

Planting climbing roses

When is the best time to plant roses? In central Russia, it is preferable to plant roses in autumn from September to the end of October, or in early spring from mid-April to the end of May. In autumn, plants must be planted 2 cm deeper than in spring (total depth 5 cm), so that the shoots of planted roses do not dry out and do not suffer from the approaching cold weather, they are sprinkled with earth and sand to a height of 20-25 cm. shelter for the winter.

Preparing for landing. Seedlings with an open root system are soaked in water a day before planting. Leaves are removed from the shoots and unripe and broken shoots are cut out with a sharp pruner. The aerial part is shortened to 30 cm, long roots are also cut off - up to 30 cm, cutting rotten roots to a healthy place. The buds located below the vaccination site are removed - wild shoots will develop from them. Seedlings are disinfected by dipping in 3% copper sulphate.

Landing. Planting pits are prepared with a size of 50 × 50 cm, the distance between plants should be at least 2 - 3 meters. When planting, do not strongly bend the roots of plants. They are supposed to be freely laid out in a hole so that they go to the bottom without bending upwards, while holding the seedlings at such a height that the grafting site is about 10 cm below the soil surface. (Other varieties of roses are planted 5 cm deep, but climbing roses are planted deeper.)

Then the hole is filled two thirds of the depth with earth, compacted so that it fits properly to the roots and the plant is watered. Thorough watering in the spring is especially important. Only after the water has been absorbed, the pit is filled with earth, and the seedling is spudded to a height of at least 20 cm.

Before the onset of frost, the level of hilling is raised. In the spring, this sprinkled earth will protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun and drying winds. For greater reliability, the seedling can be slightly shaded with needles. In dry weather, it is watered every 5-6 days. Three weeks after the spring planting, the ground is carefully raked from the bush. It is advisable to do this on a cloudy day, when there is no danger of a sharp drop in temperature at night.

In early April, they open and process roses in the same way. autumn planting. At the same time, care must be taken to ensure that the most sensitive place of the whole plant, the grafting site, remains 10 cm below ground level. In the spring, new shoots will grow over it.

If a climbing rose grows against a wall, then the distance to it should not be less than 50 cm. The plant is brought to the wall itself with an inclined planting at an appropriate angle. If the rose were grown right next to the wall, it would constantly suffer from a lack of moisture.

For late spring planting, carried out in dry, warm weather, it is useful to cover the soil with a layer of moist peat or any other mulch. After planting, the shoots are cut into 3-5 buds.

Caring for climbing roses

Caring for climbing roses consists in proper watering, timely top dressing, pruning, disease and pest control, as well as loosening and mulching the soil. In addition, plants must be provided with beautiful supports and covered for the winter.

In response to such care and careful care, these beauties will certainly thank you with magnificent flowering throughout almost the entire summer.

How to water. Good plant care is first and foremost proper watering. During the growing season, roses consume a lot of water. In the absence of precipitation from the moment the buds appear, as well as after pruning, the plants are watered every 10-12 days.

When watering, the soil must be soaked so that moisture penetrates deeper than the location of the roots (1-2 buckets per plant). On the 2-3rd day after watering (or rain), the soil around the plant must be loosened to a depth of 5-6 cm, which helps to retain moisture in the soil and better air access to the roots. Loosening can be replaced by mulching the soil.

The lack of moisture in the soil is reflected in the growth of roses, and the concentration of salts in the substrate also increases. But it must be remembered that too frequent watering from the hose raises the humidity of the air, and this contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

Top dressing. To ensure proper plant care, it is imperative to fertilize the soil. Climbing roses need regular feeding more than others. Throughout the summer, they need to be fed after 10-20 days, alternating nitrogen fertilizers with complete, complex ones. Fertilizers can be both dry and liquid.

First of all, in the spring, liquid top dressing is carried out with a complete mineral fertilizer(according to instructions). After 10 - 20 days, feed the plants with organic matter (1 bucket of mullein for 5 buckets of water + 3 kg of ash) 1 liter of this mixture is diluted in a bucket of water and watered roses under the root. Such an operation will provide an abundant start of flowering with brightly colored flowers.

Such top dressing, alternating with each other, should be done until mid-summer. From mid-July they stop feeding nitrogen fertilizers and switch to phosphorus and potash, so that the bush would already begin preparing for winter.

With any top dressing, the dosage must be strictly observed! With an excess of any chemical elements, the condition of the roses may worsen. Such care will only harm the plants.

Pruning climbing roses

Pruning plays a very important role in the care of climbing roses.

The main purpose of pruning is crown formation, obtaining abundant and long flowering keeping plants healthy.

At good care at the roses summer period long shoots grow, up to 2-3.5 m. They are covered for the winter. In the spring of the next year, only frozen and podpreshy shoots and the ends of the shoots are pruned to a strong outer bud.

In the future, climbing roses are pruned, depending on how these roses bloom, once or twice. These groups of roses differ significantly in the nature of flowering and shoot formation.

The first form flowering branches on last year's shoots. They don't bloom again. In replacement of faded shoots, the so-called main (basal), these roses form from 3 to 10 recovery (replacement) shoots that will bloom for the next season. In this case, the basal shoots after flowering are cut out to the base, like in raspberries. Thus, bushes of single-flowering climbing roses should consist of only 3-5 annual and 3-5 biennial flowering shoots.

If climbing roses belong to the group of re-flowering, then flowering branches of different orders (from 2 to 5) are formed on the main shoots for three years, the flowering of such shoots weakens by the fifth year. Therefore, the main shoots are cut out after the fourth year to the base. If many new strong growth shoots form at the base of these shoots (which usually happens when the roses are well cared for), then the main shoots are cut out, as in the first group.

In repeat-flowering bushes, it is enough to have 1 to 3 annual recovery shoots and 3 to 7 flowering main shoots. Re-blooming roses are recommended to be pruned in early spring. The meaning of pruning is to leave a limited number of the strongest, youngest and longest branches on the bush. If the lashes are too long compared to the support, they must be cut.

It is important to remember that most climbing roses bloom on overwintered shoots, which must be preserved to their full length, only the tops with underdeveloped buds should be removed. Therefore, in the fall, such roses should not be cut; the main pruning is carried out in early spring.

Proper pruning and careful care can provide almost continuous flowering roses in your garden.

Reproduction of climbing roses

Cuttings are planted in the substrate to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm.

Cuttings are cut from flowering or fading shoots with 2-3 internodes. The lower end is made oblique (at an angle of 45 °) directly under the kidney, and the upper end is made straight away from the kidney. lower leaves completely removed, and the rest cut in half. The cutting is planted in a substrate (in a mixture of earth and sand or in clean sand) in a pot, box or immediately in the ground to a depth of 0.5-1 cm. The cuttings are covered from above glass jar or film and shade from the sun. Watering is carried out without removing the film.

Cuttings in early spring also give good results. During spring pruning, there are many cut shoots that can be successfully rooted. Planting and caring for cuttings is carried out according to the above method.

Shelter of climbing roses for the winter

Shelter of roses for the winter can take several days.

Be prepared for the fact that the shelter for the winter of a climbing rose can last for several days, or even for a whole week. A rose with thick, powerful shoots is unlikely to be laid on the ground in one day. This should be done at a positive temperature, in frost the stems become brittle and break easily. In no case do not try to press each shoot separately to the ground. This can only be done by tying the entire bush into a bundle or into two bundles and then spread them out in different directions.

If you feel that the stems may break when tilting the bush, stop tilting and fix the bush in this position. Let him stand like this for a day or two, and then continue until you press him to the ground.

It is necessary to cover a rose pinned to the ground with the onset of frost. Sometimes this has to be done even in the snow. In the southern regions, there is enough shelter from lutrasil. Do not forget to cover only the base of the bush with sand or earth. If your winters are cold, cover the bush with spruce branches and also cover it in several layers with covering material or roofing material.

Supports for climbing roses

The possibilities to beautifully decorate your garden with climbing roses are quite diverse: you can often see beautiful gazebos and terraces, balconies, grottoes and pavilions, arches and pergolas decorated with roses, and there is no need to talk about how these plants transform the faceless walls of buildings.

Climbing roses can brighten up a home like no other. flowering plant. One climbing rose is enough to transform a nondescript stone wall or emphasize the originality of the facade, give romance to the previously ordinary entrance to the house.

Climbing roses are considered one of the most popular plants for vertical gardening. They are indispensable in landscape design, perfectly decorating any architectural buildings. Climbing varieties braid arches, arbors, lattice structures and columns. Most often, these flowers are grown in areas where a mild and warm climate prevails. In regions with cold weather, roses also grow, but require additional warming for the winter.

Getting to know the climbing rose - which variety to choose?

Choosing a seedling for planting - milestone growing roses in your garden. After all, the future development of the plant depends on the quality of the shoot. Flowers go on sale in February, but such an early purchase often leads to disappointment. Inexperienced gardeners do not cope with the storage of the shoot, because until the moment of disembarkation it must be properly maintained.

Flower growers are advised to choose a sleeping seedling. Then it is wrapped in paper or placed in a bag and sent to the zero chamber of the refrigerator. In such conditions, he will safely wait for his time.

If on young plant the first signs of growth are visible, it is stored in the same way. But when stepsons and leaves began to develop at the seedling, it must be urgently planted in a pot for growing, watered and sprayed. Before planting in open ground, the bush is stored in a lighted cool room.

Climbing roses are a rather capricious garden culture. To quickly understand their properties and features, flowers are divided into several groups. You can get acquainted with them in the following classification:

1. Real climbing roses with flexible arcuate stems. In length, they reach from 1.5 to 5 meters, depending on the variety. The stepchildren are bright green in color, the spikes are curved and thin. The flowers have a variety of shades, they are terry and semi-double in shape, most often small size. The flowering is plentiful, the buds gather in dense inflorescences and do not wither for a month. They bloom in early June. Representatives of this species are winter-hardy, experiencing frosts under light cover.
2. The second group was bred as a result of crossing with remontant, tea and hybrid tea varieties. They are called climbers. The resulting plants are characterized by high-speed growth and long shoots that reach 4 meters. Roses have large flowers, gathering in loose panicles. The main features are the ability to re-bloom, resistance to cold and many diseases.
3. The third group, known as climbings, was bred by mutations from spray roses with large buds. Varieties are characterized by strong growth, and their flowering time comes a little later. The buds develop large, have a bright saturated shade.

Planting a climbing rose on the site - secrets for beginners

A climbing rose is planted in both autumn and spring. Although you should stop at the first option. In the autumn, the seedlings harden off and start growing more actively. And bushes of spring planting lag behind in development for several weeks.

Autumn planting is carried out from mid-September to mid-October. This is the most favorable time: the heat has passed, and the cold weather is still far away. Such seedlings have time to take root before the first frost.

Such a landing method is risky for the northern regions, for example, Siberia. It is more suitable for the Moscow region and Middle lane. During severe winters, young plants die immediately. If the gardener is not sure whether his flowers will be able to overwinter, you should plant a bush in April-May.

For the planting site of seedlings, sunlit areas are chosen, in extreme cases, semi-darkened corners of the territory are suitable. Excess moisture is poorly tolerated by this crop, so grow it on a heavy clay soil with nearby groundwater Not recommended.

Representatives of the Pink family take root well in fertile loose soil. The ideal condition would be a plot with a slight slope to the south.

How to carry out preparatory work?

For planting take samples with developed roots or already grafted. A strong bush should have 2-3 lignified stepchildren. Healthy bark on the trunk and branches has in green and has no damage. Also, high-quality samples are distinguished by the presence of many white small roots.

Purchased specimens are left in water for several hours to absorb moisture. In the spring, a rose with an open rhizome is placed in a container with a root formation stimulator (for example, Kornevin, Kornerost). In such a solution, the plant needs to be within a day.

Before directly burying the bush in the ground, it is cut a little. Remove damaged roots and slightly shorten old long shoots (by 5-10 cm). If the seedling is purchased with a closed root system, that is, in a container, then it is not cut off. But an earthen lump, in which thin whitish roots are visible, is still soaked in water.

To bloom climbing plants was magnificent, for them they select correct soil, ideally it should be loamy and well loosened. If the land on the site does not meet these parameters, it is improved.

Clay soil is diluted with sand, and a small amount of clay is added to sandy soil. Fertility from such actions will not increase, but it will allow to establish the permeability of moisture and air. The scarce substrate is enriched with chernozem, biohumus. With such a mixture, the planting hole is filled to 2/3 of its volume in order to freely place the rhizome.

The top layer of soil is fertilized with rotted manure or compost (5 kg) and wood ash(1 tablespoon). Sometimes a rose is fed with a complex potash-phosphorus fertilizer, 15 g for one sample. Nitrogen substances are introduced into the ground only during spring planting (calculated as 20 g for one bush).

The soil is often enriched with beneficial microorganisms. They are able to process those substances that are poorly absorbed by roses, turning them into available ones. Preparations containing such bacteria are sold in specialized stores.

Growing technology and principles of care for seedlings

Bushes with dormant buds are planted in open ground when its temperature reaches 10-12 degrees. If planting work is carried out in the spring, then the time of planting is determined by the condition of the buds on the trees. Instances with open roots are planted before they bloom. Container samples are placed in the ground after opening the eyes.

The seat is prepared in advance, replacing unfavorable soil with a special mixture, which consists of the following components:

leaf land;
peat;
rotted manure;
sod land;
sand.

All ingredients are mixed in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1: 1 and fill the hole with them. Depth of processing - not less than 70 cm. As a result of preparation, the recess for the seedling is filled with layers:

the lower area is filled with drainage (pebbles, rubble, broken bricks);
medium level - a mixture of nutrients;
the top layer is garden soil.

If the gardener makes a single planting, the size of the pit is 60 cm high and the same width. In groups, the distance between representatives of vigorous varieties is 2 m, for the rest the distance is reduced - 1.5 m. The soil on the entire site is cultivated by double digging. virgin lands dig three times.

When all preparatory work carried out, it's time to place the bush in a new place. Landing is carried out in the following sequence:

check the size of the pit, it should be wide and deep enough;
pour a hill of preplant soil mixture;
the roots are distributed along the slope of the mound;
sprinkle with an earthen mixture, evenly dividing it between the rhizome;
shake the plant up and down;
the soil is compacted, eliminating voids, filled to the very edge.

The vaccination site is immersed in the ground by 5 cm, it should not be above this level. The bush is watered abundantly with water, a little soil is added. When the young branches grow by 2–3 cm, the rose is unraveled.

A bush that is planted against a wall has roots in the opposite direction from it. They also act when planting a flower near a support in the form of lattices, arches or columns.

The specimen, which was in the container, is filled with water and removed from the package. Broken shoots are removed. During transplantation, the earthen ball is left intact, placing the rose in the hole with it. If leaves have formed on the seedling, then it is not spudded.

The long stems of the climbing flower initially need partial shading and shelter from drafts. After the buds open, the bush begins to be hardened by the sun and wind, temporarily removing the shelter. A few days later it is completely removed.

We learn to care for flowers - we carry out pruning, disease prevention and shelter for the winter

Care for representatives of the Pink family during their cultivation consists in regular watering, fertilizing, pruning and shelter for the cold season.

To prepare a rose for winter, it is customary to cover it. For this purpose, two methods are used:

1. With the air-dry method, the branches of the rose are bent to the ground, a frame is erected over them and pulled polyethylene film. The non-woven fabric is placed on top. With the onset of spring, the snow leaves the greenhouse and it becomes hot inside. To prevent the flowers from rotting and getting sick, the shelter is ventilated.
2. The second technique is more simplified. The branches are bent and immediately covered nonwoven fabric in two layers. Additionally insulated with spruce branches. Such a structure does not allow the plant to sop during the thaw. However, if the winter is wet, the seal becomes wet. In contact with the stems, it causes controversy.

In preparation for wintering, the leaves are cut off on the bushes so that they do not become a source of an infectious disease. They start such work in September, finish - before the construction of greenhouses (until November). They rent a shelter when frosts below -7 degrees are not expected on the street.

Look after climbing roses making annual pruning. There are two types of such procedures:

anti-aging (applied to old bushes, allows you to get rid of lignified branches that do not give new shoots);
forming (carried out every year several times per season).

Most important time for pruning - spring. When the plant woke up, the caked stepchildren are straightened, shearing the blackened shoots to a clean tissue. Places of cuts are treated with brilliant green or garden pitch. Bushes affected by fungal infections and mold are sprayed with copper sulfate.

The plant is pruned again after the first flowering, removing wilted inflorescences and buds. If the rose is prone to a second bloom, cut off part of the shoots. This will save her from overgrowing and allow her to bloom fully.