That is why coniferous seedlings turn yellow. Why does the needles of thuja, pine, spruce turn yellow in autumn

If you bought a coniferous plant at an exhibition or in a store and noticed that its needles are turning yellow, or if you have a pine or thuja growing in open ground for a long time, but at one fine moment you notice that on one particular side or in general the entire crown begins turn yellow, then we bring to your attention 5 main reasons, and probably the only ones, from which the needles of coniferous plants turn yellow. The main thing is to react in time to save the plant. Some reasons are not fatal, while other reasons can severely damage the conifer and you will have to “puff” over it.

The first reason is why the needles turn yellow. The most common reason is lack of watering. In the store there are conifers in pots, containers, their needles are green ... And inexperienced sellers can rarely water them, the needles do not fade, and the green one is standing! Remember, your Christmas tree or pine stands for so long, that is, by its appearance it is not entirely possible to understand whether it has enough water or not.

Here they dried out an earthen ball in the store, then they remembered, they watered it. But the small roots, which absorb moisture the most and most quickly, have died off. And in order for them to branch, you need to help the plant with fertilizer or a growth accelerator, periodically water it on time.

Therefore, when you buy a conifer in a store or nursery, then rather be guided by the conscience of the seller than by the appearance of the soil. Even if it is watered, this may mean that it was only watered today, and the coniferous plant has been dry for a week. And when you bring the conifer home, then in a week its needles may turn yellow.

It is best, of course, to know in advance the quality of the company or seller, it may be necessary, if the store or nursery is not far from you, to periodically visit and observe the plants, how they are cared for. Coniferous in pots photo:

If you bought such an “under-watered” plant, and the needles began to turn yellow at your place, then if you want to plant the plant in open ground, we advise that such sufferers should not be planted in dry sandy soil, especially calcareous, with a shallow fertile layer. They will be sick for a long time. In this case, you need to specially prepare a pit for planting so that there is enough fertile soil in it, and you need to plant it together with a lump so as not to tear off already weak roots.

The second reason is why the needles turn yellow. This is an inappropriate late landing. As they say, "the greed of the fryer killed." If you planted a conifer late in the fall and it did not have time to take root, take root, that is, winter came soon, frosts, the soil froze, then the needles of the coniferous plant will turn yellow, since the roots do not absorb moisture, they sleep, and the needles continue to evaporate moisture. Yes, coniferous plants in winter, especially on clear days, evaporate moisture from the needles. As a result, the plant becomes dehydrated, the needles turn yellow and fall.

To save a plant:

1. - cover it from frost and sun;

2. -clear snow around the conifer so that it forms a side around the trunk and at least every other day water the conifer with warm enough water (60 degrees). Water, when it soaks into the cold ground, will take the desired temperature. A side of snow will also create a protective zone so that drafts do not freeze the soil more. Planting conifers in late autumn photo:

The third reason is why the needles turn yellow. Sun burns. Most often in winter and early spring, when the snow has not yet melted, the sun's rays, reflected from the white snow, create even more illumination near the plant, almost 2 times more intense. Therefore, the needles turn yellow and fall off. After all, there is little moisture in the soil, and the needles of water reserves begin to evaporate more and more from sunlight. Of course, conifers do not need to be watered all winter.

Of course, it is desirable to water at least once a month. But coniferous plants will save shelter from the sun. You can cover with thick paper, burlap, special covering material, which can now be bought at any garden store, or with the same coniferous spruce branches. Sunburn coniferous photo:

The fourth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Fungi, that is, fungal diseases, can cause yellowing and falling of needles. These are fungi that most often cause coniferous diseases such as various types of schütte and various rusts. Fungi can appear from improper care of plants, frequent plantings in which there are no ventilated places, constant shade. For conifers, carry out preventive treatment, as fungi can be everywhere in the soil and air. For prevention, spraying with foundationazole (10 g per 10 liters of water with an interval of 10 days) is suitable.

If the needles have already turned yellow and you have not identified other reasons, so it is most likely that this is the fault of fungi, then treat the conifers with biological products - Fitosporin - M, Alirin, Gamair. These biologics fight fungi, but in order to strengthen the immunity of the plant itself, treat the conifers with Zircon and Epin - extra. Needle rust:

The fifth reason is why the needles turn yellow. Coniferous plants have enough pests that like to spoil the appearance of plants, or even completely lead to death. For example, thuja aphid or Sitka spruce aphid. Most often, aphids attack thuja, Sitka, prickly and Serbian pines.

Substitute a white sheet under the branch, and tap the branch on top with your hand. If dark little “goats” fell on the leaf, then your conifers “eat” aphids. You can get rid of aphids on conifers if you often spray the plants with potash soap, a strong infusion of garlic, wormwood or other herbs.

It's not chemistry though...

Aphids on needles photo:

Another pest of coniferous plants can be a night butterfly - a nun, or rather voracious caterpillars of a dirty white, gray color. If you have few conifers and you notice the caterpillars well, then most of them can be collected and destroyed, but keep in mind that these caterpillars hit the needles so that the branches remain bare. Therefore, it is better to additionally spray the conifers with Bitoxibacillin or other Decis, Karate preparations.

Also, your coniferous plants can spoil the spider mite and spruce leafworm. When the plants are struck by a leafworm, the needles turn yellow, a fairly noticeable cobweb appears and small caterpillars eating the needles are visible inside. If you start to notice the cobweb on the needles, then we first undertake mechanical processing.

We put on gloves, gently cover the branch with our hands and, as it were, pull the web from them in the direction of the growth of the needles. You can twist, shake the branches. Then we process the plants with colloidal sulfur, a strong infusion of dandelion or garlic.

If the branches are severely affected, then we treat them with a solution of liquid soap so that the insects stick and suffocate, and then we remove these branches. If you have a lot of coniferous plants and all together began to be eaten by pests, then we advise you not to waste time, but to use chemical insecticidal preparations, in which case you will definitely save your plants.

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Why does the needles of thuja and other conifers turn yellow in the fall!
Fertilizers for conifers - as easy as shelling pears!
Caring for conifers in winter

They do not lose their attractiveness and decorativeness throughout the year, and, as a rule, live longer than many hardwoods. They are an excellent material for creating compositions due to the diverse shape of the crown and the color of the needles. The most widely used in professional and amateur landscaping are coniferous shrubs such as junipers, yew, thuja; from wood - pine, larch, spruce. Therefore, information about their main diseases seems to be relevant. The issue of treating conifers is especially acute in the spring, when you have to deal with burning, winter desiccation and infectious diseases on plants weakened after winter.

First of all, it should be mentioned non-communicable diseases, caused by the negative impact on the growth and development of coniferous plants of adverse environmental conditions. Although conifers are demanding on high soil and air moisture, excessive moisture associated with natural waterlogging, rising groundwater levels, spring floods and heavy autumn precipitation leads to yellowing and necrotic needles. The same symptoms very often appear due to lack of moisture in the soil and low air humidity.

Tui, spruce, yew are very sensitive to drying out of the roots, therefore, immediately after planting, it is recommended to mulch their near-stem circles with peat and grass cut from lawns, if possible, maintain mulching throughout the entire time of their growth, and water regularly. Pines, arborvitae and junipers are the most drought-resistant. In the first year after planting, it is advisable to spray young plants with water in the evening hours and shade them during the hot period. The vast majority of conifers are shade-tolerant; when grown in open sunny places, they may lag behind in growth, their needles may turn yellow and even die off. On the other hand, many of them cannot stand strong shading, especially light-requiring pines and larches. To protect the bark from sunburn, it can be whitewashed with lime or a special whitewash in early spring or late autumn.

The condition and appearance of plants largely depend on the availability of nutrients and the balance of their ratios. The lack of iron in the soil leads to yellowing and even whitening of the needles on individual shoots; with a lack of phosphorus, young needles acquire a red-violet hue; with a nitrogen deficiency, plants grow noticeably worse, become chlorotic. The best growth and development of plants occurs on drained and well-cultivated soils provided with nutrients. Slightly acidic or neutral soil is preferred. It is recommended to fertilize with special fertilizers intended for coniferous plants. In suburban areas, conifers may suffer from frequent visits by dogs and cats, causing an excessive concentration of salts in the soil. On thuja and juniper in such cases, shoots with red needles appear, subsequently drying out.

Low temperatures in winter and spring frosts cause freezing of the crown and roots, while the needles become dry, acquire a reddish color, die off, and the bark cracks. The most winter-hardy are spruces, pines, fir, arborvitae, junipers. The branches of coniferous plants can break off from the necklace and snow break in winter.

Many conifers are sensitive to air pollution from harmful industrial and automotive gaseous impurities. This is manifested, first of all, by yellowing, starting from the ends of the needles and their falling off (dying off).

Conifers are rarely severely affected infectious diseases, although in some cases they can suffer greatly from them. Young plants are generally less resistant to a complex of non-infectious and infectious diseases, their resistance increases with age.

Types of soil-dwelling fungi genera Python(pitium) and Rhizoctonia(rhizoctonia) lead roots of seedlings to decay and die off often cause significant losses of young plants in schools and containers.

The causative agents of tracheomycotic wilt are most often anamorphic fungi. Fusarium oxysporum, which are soil pathogens. The affected roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates the vascular system and fills it with its biomass, which stops the access of nutrients, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither. The needles turn yellow, redden and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants are most affected. The infection persists in plants, plant debris and spreads with infected planting material or infected soil. The development of the disease contributes to: stagnant water in low areas, lack of sunlight.

Healthy planting material should be used as a protective measure. Timely remove all dried plants with roots, as well as affected plant residues. For preventive purposes, short-term soaking of young plants with an open root system is carried out in a solution of one of the preparations: Baktofit, Vitaros, Maxim. At the first symptoms, the soil is shed with a solution of one of the biological products: Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B, Gamair. For the purpose of prevention, the soil is shed with Fundazol.

Gray mold (rot) affects the aerial parts of young plants, especially in unventilated areas with a strong thickening of plantings and insufficient lighting. Affected shoots become gray-brown, as if covered with a layer of dust.

In addition to these diseases, which are widespread on hardwoods, there are diseases that are characteristic only for conifers. First of all, they are shute, the causative agents of which are some types of ascomycete fungi.

Common Schutte Pine

real schütte Lophodermium seditiosum- one of the main causes of premature fall of pine needles. Mostly young plants are affected, incl. in the open field of nurseries, and weakened trees, which can lead to their death due to strong fall of needles. During spring and early summer, the needles turn brown and fall off. In autumn, small yellowish dots are noticeable on the needles, gradually growing and turning brown, later on dead, crumbling needles, dotted black fruiting bodies are formed - apothecia, with which the fungus is preserved.

Common Schutte Pine, which has similar symptoms and development cycle causes Lophodermium pinastri. In autumn or more often in the spring of the next year, the needles turn yellow or become reddish-brown and die off. Then, the fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on it in the form of small black strokes or dots, blackening and increasing by autumn. Thin dark transverse lines appear on the needles. Moderately warm weather, drizzling rains and dews contribute to the dispersal of spores and infection of needles. Weakened plants in nurseries and cultures up to 3 years of age and self-sowing pines are more often affected and die.

Called by a fungus Phlacidium infestans, which affects mainly pine species. It is especially harmful in snowy areas, where it sometimes completely destroys the renewal of Scots pine.

It develops under snow cover and develops relatively quickly even at temperatures around 0 degrees. Mycelium grows from needle to needle and often further to neighboring plants. After the snow melts, dead needles and often shoots turn brown and die. Diseased plants are covered with grayish mycelial films that quickly disappear. During the summer, the needles die off, becoming reddish-red, later light gray. It crumbles, but almost does not fall off. At the twisted pine ( Pinus contorta) dead needles are more reddish than those of Scots pine. By autumn, apothecia become visible, like small dark dots scattered over the needles. Ascospores from these are spread by air currents onto living pine needles just before they are usually covered with snow. The development of the fungus is favored by drizzling rains, snowfall and melting in autumn, mild snowy winters, and long spring.

Brown Shutte, or brown snow mold of conifers affects pines, fir, spruces, cedars, junipers, is caused by a fungus Herpotrichia nigra. It occurs more often in nurseries, young stands, self-sowing and young undergrowth. This disease manifests itself in early spring after the snow has melted, and the primary infection of needles with bag spores occurs in the fall. The disease develops under snow at a temperature not lower than 0.5 ° C. The lesion is detected after the snow melts: on the brown dead needles, a black-gray cobweb coating of mycelium is noticeable, and then dotted fruiting bodies of the pathogen fungus. The needles do not fall off for a long time, thin branches die off. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity, the presence of depressions in the sown areas, and the thickening of plants.

Signs of defeat juniper schütte(causative agent - fungus Lophodermium juniperinum) appear at the beginning of summer on last year's needles, which acquire a dirty yellow or brown color and do not crumble for a long time. From the end of summer, round black up to 1.5 mm fruiting bodies are visible on the surface of the needles, in which marsupial sporulation of the fungus persists in winter. The disease develops intensively on weakened plants, in humid conditions, it can lead to plant death.

Protective measures against schütte include the selection of planting material that is resistant in origin, giving the plants as much resistance as possible, timely thinning, and the use of fungicidal sprays. Shaded plants are most susceptible to the disease. The harmfulness of shyutte increases with high snow cover and its long-term melting. In forests and parks, instead of natural regeneration, planting of plants of the required origin is recommended. Planted plants are more evenly distributed over the area, making it more difficult for mycelium to infect one plant from another, in addition, they quickly reach a height above the critical level. In those areas where schütte damages Scotch pine, you can use lodgepole pine or European spruce, which is extremely rarely affected. Only healthy planting material should be used. It is recommended to remove fallen diseased needles and cut off dried branches in a timely manner.

Fungicidal treatments must be used in nurseries. Spraying with copper and sulfur preparations (for example, Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak or HOM, lime-sulfur decoction) in early spring and autumn effectively reduces the development of diseases. With the manifestation of the disease to a strong extent in the summer, spraying is repeated.

Of particular importance for conifers are rust diseases, caused by fungi of the department Basidiomycota, class Uredinomycetes, affecting the needles and bark of shoots, virtually all of their pathogens are heterogeneous, and from conifers they pass to other plants, causing their defeat. Let us describe some of them.

Cone rust, spruce spinner. On the inside of spruce scales, which is an intermediate host of the rust fungus puccinia strumareolatum, rounded dusty dark brown aetiopustules appear. Cones are wide open, hanging for several years. The seeds are inconsistent. Sometimes shoots are bent, the disease in this form is called spruce spinner. The main host is bird cherry, on the leaves of which small round light purple uredinio-, then black teliopustules appear.

Summons a Rusty Miscellaneous Fungus Melampsora pinitorqua. The aecial stage develops on the pine, as a result of which its shoots bend S-shaped, the top of the shoot dies off. Aspen is the main host. In summer, small yellow urediniopustules form on the underside of the leaves, spores from which cause mass infection of the leaves. Then, by autumn, black teliopustules are formed, in the form of which the fungus overwinters on plant debris.

Rust pine needles cause several species of the genus Coleosporium. It mainly affects biconiferous species of the genus Pinus, is found everywhere in their ranges, mainly in nurseries and young stands. The eciostage of the fungus develops in spring on pine needles. Yellow vesicle-shaped aetsiopustules are arranged in disorder on both sides of the needles, urediospores and teliospores are formed on coltsfoot, ragwort, sow thistle, bluebell and other herbaceous plants. With a strong spread of the disease, the needles turn yellow prematurely and fall off, and the plants lose their decorative effect.

Miscellaneous mushroom Cronartium Ribicola causes pine spinner(five-coniferous pines) , or columnar rust of currant. First, the infection of the needles occurs, gradually the fungus spreads into the bark and wood of the branches and trunks. Resin is observed in the affected areas, and aesiopustules appear in the form of yellow-orange vesicles from the ruptures of the cortex. Under the influence of the mycelium, a thickening is formed, which eventually turns into open wounds, the overlying part of the shoot dries up or bends. Currant is an intermediate host, gooseberries can also rarely be affected, numerous pustules form on the underside of their leaves in the form of small columns, orange, then brown.

Mushrooms of the genus Gymnosporangium (G. comfusum, G. juniperinu, G. sabinae), pathogens juniper rust affect cotoneaster, hawthorn, apple, pear, quince, which are intermediate hosts. In spring, the disease develops on their foliage, causing the formation of yellowish outgrowths (pustules) on the underside of the leaves, and round orange spots with black dots are noticeable on the top (aecial stage). From the end of summer, the disease passes to the main host plant - juniper (teliostage). From autumn and early spring, yellow-orange gelatinous masses of sporulation of the pathogen fungus appear on its needles and branches. Fusiform thickenings appear on the affected parts of the branches, and the death of individual skeletal branches begins. On the trunks, more often on the root neck, swellings and swells form, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. The disease is chronic, almost incurable.

Rust of birch, larch - Melampsoridium betulinum. Small yellow pustules appear on the underside of birch and alder leaves in spring, yellowing, shoot growth decreases. In the larch, which is the main host, the needles turn yellow in summer.

As protective measures against rust diseases it is possible to recommend spatial isolation from affected plants that have a common causative agent of the disease. So, you should not grow poplar and aspen next to pines, five-needle pines should be isolated from blackcurrant plantings. Cutting out affected shoots, increasing resistance through the use of microfertilizers and immunostimulants will reduce the harmfulness of rusts.

causative agents drying of juniper branches there may be several mushrooms: Cytospora pini, Diplodia juniperi, Henderson notha, Phoma juniperi, Phomopsis juniperovora, Rhabdospora sabinae. Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous brown and black fruiting bodies on it are observed. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and unharvested plant debris. The spread is facilitated by dense plantings and the use of infected planting material.

Tui can often also appear drying, drying of shoots and branches, caused more often by the same fungal pathogens. A typical manifestation is yellowing and falling of leaves from the ends of the shoot, browning of the young growth of branches; in humid conditions, sporulation of fungi is noticeable on the affected parts.

The causative agent of which is a fungus Pestalotiopsis funerea causes necrosis of the bark of branches and browning of the needles. On the affected tissues, olive-black sporulation of the fungus is formed in the form of separate pads. With a strong drying of the branches in hot weather, the pads dry up and take on the appearance of crusts. With an abundance of moisture, a grayish-black mycelium develops on the affected needles and bark of the stems. Affected branches and needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the bark of drying branches.

Sometimes appears on juniper plants biorelloma cancer. Its causative agent is a fungus Biatorella difformis, is the conidial stage of the marsupial fungus Biatoridina pinastri. With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing necrosis of the bark. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries, cracks. The wood gradually dies off and longitudinal ulcers form. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The defeat and death of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.

Pathogen juniper nectar cancer is a marsupial Nectria cucurbitula, with conidial stage Zythia cucurbitula. Numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed on the surface of the affected bark; over time, they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the affected branches and entire bushes dry up. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by dense plantings and the use of infected planting material.

In recent years, many cultures, incl. conifers, mushrooms of the genus Alternaria. Pathogen juniper Alternariosis is a mushroom Alternaria tenuis. On the needles affected by it, which becomes brown, a velvety black coating appears on the branches. The disease manifests itself when plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

To combat desiccation and Alternaria, you can use preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with a Bordeaux mixture, Abiga-Peak, and copper oxychloride. If necessary, in the summer, spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. The use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all cuts with a solution of copper sulphate, and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil significantly reduce the prevalence of diseases.

larch cancer causes marsupial fungus Lachnellulawillkommii. Its mycelium spreads in the bark and wood of larch branches during its spring and autumn growth dormancy. The following summer, new bark and wood are built up around the wound. As preventive protective measures, it is recommended to plant resistant larch species, grow them in favorable conditions, do not thicken, and avoid frost damage.

On the stems of conifers, some types of fungi can settle tinder fungus, forming rather large fruiting bodies on the bark, annual and perennial, causing cracking of the bark, as well as rot of roots and wood. For example, pine wood affected by a root sponge is purple at first, then white spots appear on it, which turn into voids. Wood becomes cellular, sieve.

Tui stem rot is often caused by tinder fungi: pine sponge Porodaedalea pini, causing variegated-red rot of the trunk and tinder fungus Schweinitz - Phaeolus schweinitzii, which is the causative agent of brown central fissured root rot. In both cases, fruiting bodies of the fungus are formed on the rotten wood. In the first case, they are perennial, woody, the upper part is dark brown, up to 17 cm in diameter; in the second mushroom, annual fruiting bodies in the form of flat caps, often on stalks, are arranged in groups. Affected plants gradually die, and unharvested dried plants and their parts are the source of infection.

It is necessary to cut out diseased, damaged, dried branches in a timely manner, cut off the fruiting bodies of tinder fungi. Wound injuries are cleaned and treated with putty or paint based on drying oil. Use healthy planting material. It is possible to carry out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with a Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes. Be sure to uproot the stumps.

It rarely happens that the summer resident is not guilty in this case - as a rule, the site owner himself made mistakes for which the plants pay.

Why conifers turn yellow in spring

Take a look at the list of such erroneous activities and check the boxes that correspond to your actions:

When planting, a large amount (more than 30-50 g) of mineral fertilizers was added to the planting hole, and the roots were in contact with the granules in the soil.

After planting, regular watering of the plants was not provided during the season ("planted, watered and forgot").

The vital for coniferous plants sub-winter water-recharging watering (before the onset of frost) was not carried out, which would provide good turgor (moisture filling) of the needles.

Sufficient shading of the needles for the winter was not made. The fact is that in February or early spring the sun makes the needles evaporate moisture, and the roots in the frozen ground are not able to provide this moisture. Plants simply "burn out", not being able to protect themselves from bright rays.

Plants were not processed last season and spring against diseases and pests of needles.

What to do if the plants have already turned yellow

If we are talking about small inclusions of yellow needles in late February-early March, then it is still quite possible to protect the trees with wall materials.

In no case should you completely wrap the plants with lutrasil (spunbond). The material itself weakly retains the sun, while the needles continue to actively evaporate moisture, and the "cocoon" creates a greenhouse effect inside, leading to dampening, fading and, ultimately, yellowing of the needles. Often, under lutrasil, the plant turns yellow more than uncovered.

To effectively protect individual plants from the sun, use burlap and special nets that allow the needles to avoid bright rays and allow it to ventilate.

By the way, you should not completely exclude the use of lutrasil. From it you can build beautiful screens that slightly shade the plants, but do not accumulate moisture.

The easiest option is to throw fabric on the tree only from the south side and secure it in this position with twine or ordinary clerical staples right along the branches. The result - the plant is shaded, but well ventilated.

If the needles turned yellow in April-May

Well, most often this phenomenon is quite reversible and fixable. Do not immediately cut branches with yellowed needles. In some plants, shoots with young needles can grow back on them (for example, in arborvitae).

Only in cases where the knots are clearly dry and easily break off with a dry cut, you need to carefully cut them with a hacksaw or cut them with a pruner.

So, how to help the affected conifers?

1. Treat plants with a mixture of insecticide and fungicide for prevention, because. it is difficult for a non-specialist to determine the presence of signs of diseases or pests on a plant.

To do this, add 4 ml of Topaz and 20 ml of Actellik to 10 liters of water (if you do not find Actellik on sale, you can replace it with Aktara or Fufanon). Be sure to add an ampoule of Zircon to the same tank mixture, this is an excellent stimulant that will help plants recover.

2. Water the plants generously, especially if you think you over-fertilized with mineral fertilizers when planting. After washing the soil, water the conifers again by adding 1 ampoule of Zircon to the water. In this case, it is used as a root stimulator.

3. Do not apply any top dressing either at the root or along the needles until new shoots appear.

4. In the morning, evening or on cloudy days, spray the crown with plain water.

5. A week after the first treatment, spray the plants with a solution of Epin-Extra preparations (2 ml per 10 liters of water). This is an excellent anti-stress drug that will help the needles recover.

If you have very alkaline water (gives a lot of scale), then add 1 tsp to a bucket of water before diluting Epin. vinegar (Epin is destroyed in an alkaline environment). Spray in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening 2 times a month until the plant is fully restored.

6. Instead of Epin, you can use another adaptogen - the drug HB-101, this solution is sprayed and watered under the root once a week. Use 2 times a month until the tree is completely restored.

7. As soon as the plant has cheered up and new shoots have appeared, in May you can feed it using special fertilizers for conifers. In this case, it is better to give preference to liquid and granular preparations with a long duration of action (POKON, AVA).

8. Water and spray conifers regularly, especially young specimens, and do not make mistakes in the future before preparing them for wintering.

Before the onset of winter, the thuja and some other conifers change the color of the needles. This is a common seasonal phenomenon that has nothing to do with plant disease.

When does the needle change?

In autumn, many conifers change the color of the crown, the needles fall off. The change in its color occurs in conditions of lower air temperature in September-November. This is quite normal and should not be scary. Cooling is a signal for most conifers (juniper, microbiota, thuja, pine, etc.). Their needles begin to turn yellow, acquire a bronze or other shade. For example, in autumn the beautiful green needles of the popular microbiota cross-pair turns brown noticeably. The crown of some species of thuja seems rusty-brown for another reason. This is an abundance of half-open cones with ripe seeds.

Some conifers almost do not change the color of the needles in autumn. At pseudo-hemzies the general appearance of the tree at this time remains almost the same. Its needles live for a long time, up to eight years. Our green Christmas trees also “molt” almost imperceptibly, their old needles are only slightly different in color. They fall off no earlier than after 5 years. The loss of part of the needles is sometimes jokingly called "autumn needle fall". This phenomenon is explained by the fact that the needles live in different plants on average from three to eight years. Some cultures take longer. When "their service life" ends, they change their former color to a greater or lesser extent and fall off. Any changes in the decoration of coniferous trees are alarming. They are evergreen! In most cases, there is no need to worry. New needles will definitely appear, and the tree will not cease to be evergreen.

autumn needles

The needles of pines and firs fall more from skeletal branches and from the trunk, especially in the very depths of the crown. In many species of thuja, the entire crown turns yellow. More intense in the part that is closer to the central trunk. There is less light. Both individual needles and entire branches fall off. In many junipers, spruces and pseudo-hemlocks, part of the needles die off by winter. Before that, it becomes gray-gray, so the general appearance of the tree does not deteriorate. Yes, and the change of outfit is gradual. Pea-bearing cypress often loses entire branches, which before that turn very red.

When growing conifers, sometimes in the fall it seems that the plant is “drying out” from the inside. This is due to the fact that much more old needles turn yellow and fall off in the depths of the crown. This condition is clearly visible in pines, cypresses and thujas.

Conifers in an autumn park in France also turn yellow

What to do?

The crown of conifers should be regularly freed from crumbling needles. This is easy to do by wearing a thick glove on your hand. I remove the needles with a strong jet of water from a hose. Otherwise, it will interfere with the appearance of young needles and accumulate in places where the branches fork. A lot of needles always accumulate under a tree. If it does not interfere with other plants, then the needles can not be swept. It gradually rots and becomes a natural mulch. Of course, with any suspicion associated with the presence of diseases or pests, the fallen needles must be removed.

Other reasons

Unfortunately, changing the color of the needles may also indicate some problems. For example, needles are damaged by brown shyutte. Such a tree does not restore its typical color in spring. He needs to be treated. To do this, use kartotsid or Bordeaux mixture. Processing is carried out several times (until complete recovery) with an interval of two weeks. There is another reason for the possible fall of yellowed needles. This is aphids. Spraying with karbofos in early spring helps. In the middle of summer, they are treated with Actellik or Rogor-S. For any suspicion of a fungal infection of conifers, fundazol, HOM, oxychom, ordan, cartocid or commander are used. All these are quite strong modern drugs. For prevention, trees can be treated with epin and zircon until the end of June.

Massive yellowing and falling of the needles sometimes indicates that the tree was planted incorrectly (for example, with a large depth). Or in the wrong place (for example, groundwater comes very close to the soil surface). To these factors, it is worth adding unsuitable acidity of the soil, and for some crops, an unnecessarily sunny and ventilated place. But all these painful conditions have nothing to do with natural discoloration and partial change of needles.

The role of regular watering is also great. Prolonged drought is the worst enemy of most conifers that grow in our areas. The needles often turn yellow due to starvation of plants. Especially due to lack of magnesium. Therefore, it is necessary to apply those balanced complex fertilizers that are intended specifically for coniferous crops.

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