How to block the cellar: types of flooring, monolithic and precast-monolithic slabs, wooden structures with load-bearing beams, insulation of the basement ceiling. Overlapping the cellar - how to do it yourself? Preparation of the pit, floor and foundation

Date: 29-05-2014
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Proper cellar flooring

The size of the cellar room primarily depends on how much things you plan to store in it, and in shape it can be round, square and multifaceted. IN : Bottom part, which goes into the ground, and the ground part (cellar), which is designed to protect the premises from high summer temperature and winter frosts.

It will be about how best to make the ceiling of the cellar, what are the nuances and what you need to pay attention to Special attention in one or another version of the construction of the basement.

External arrangement of the basement

For the construction of the cellar, various construction material such as wood, concrete, natural stone, brick or boards with their further backfilling. The cellar can be used as a regular pantry. Above the cellar, a ceiling is made in the form of flooring from boards on pre-mounted beams, and from above it is covered with heat-insulating material.

It is necessary to take a very responsible attitude to the construction of the vault of the cellar:

earthen cellar must have gable roof which descends to ground level. For its construction, you can use reeds, branches or straw, which is mixed with clay. The roof sheathing itself is made of boards, under the bottom of which roofing material or roofing felt is placed. Often, in order to exclude freezing, the ceiling is insulated with peat;
the roof of the cellar, in the design of which the cellar is provided, is pitched, and to ensure the dryness of the walls, the overhangs must be protruding;
performing the correct calculation and masonry of the vaulted roof of the stone cellar will ensure the strength and reliability of the entire building. It is made on formwork made of wood with circles, which must be carried out simultaneously on both sides. In the presence of dry places, vaults can be built from unbaked red brick;
the roof of the ground cellar with deboning is made of clay, which is mixed with straw. After that, polyethylene or roofing material is applied to it.

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Basement floor options

The scheme of waterproofing from the side of the cellar: 1- cellar overlap; 2- wooden frame; 3- brick wall of the cellar; 4- coating with bituminous mastic; 5- backfilling of the sinuses; 6- concrete base; 7- preparation from compacted rubble; 8- pasting anti-pressure waterproofing; 9 - protective wall; 10 - cement plaster.

After the foundation pit is filled at ground level, the next stage of construction follows - the cellar overlap. As a rule, for this purpose, a kind of cornice is built around the entire perimeter of the pit of ceramic red brick. It should be noted that the laying of each row of bricks should protrude outward by about 3 cm more than the previous row. Then the cornice is covered with roofing material, on top of which any of the bulk insulation must be laid. After that you need to do cement screed, the thickness of which is at least 2 cm, and paste over with roofing material.

For the construction of the vault can be used various material, it all depends on the type of structure and the availability of funds for this, but in any case, the structure must be strong, since it will be subjected to a large load. In addition, close attention should be paid to the waterproofing of the basement floor.

You can also make a basement ceiling out of wood. For this, beams are initially made, and after that they are covered with bars or boards. It should be noted that when using wood for the construction of the basement floor, it must be treated with an antiseptic.

After installation of the floor from the boards, thermal insulation material is applied. Alternatively, you can use ordinary clay, which is subsequently covered with dry earth. The thermal insulation layer must be at least 0.5 m thick.

In the use of wood for the construction of the basement, there is one, but a very significant drawback - the wood is susceptible to decay.

The scheme of the cellar overlap is from a slab insulated with clay grease and earth.

That's why wooden floors quite often it needs to be repaired.

According to experts, the most best material to cover the basement is a reinforced concrete slab or concrete mix. Of course, due to the presence of reinforcement in a reinforced concrete slab, it is much stronger than concrete. With this design of the overlap, special attention should be paid to the sealing of the seams. For this purpose, you need to use a cement mortar. Often, it is necessary to produce concrete, and mortar, at home, while it is best to give preference to cement with the M 200 or M 300 brand.

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Features of the use of concrete slabs

After the iron concrete plates laid, and the connecting seams are sealed cement mortar, their surface is covered with 2 layers of heated bitumen, and sheet roofing material is laid on top of them. For insulation of the plate, as a rule, slag wool is used.

Often, a cellar is built above the cellar with such an overlap, this will create additional protection for it. The shelter of the cellar itself is recommended to be made of materials that do not transmit heat well. Experts also argue that the door must be built on the north side so that on a hot summer day it is less heated by the sun's rays.

In the basement floor, a hatch is often made, which is intended for entry fresh air. It is recommended to build a ventilation system in the basement. For this, only two pipes are needed, which are brought out into the street through a hatch or directly through the ceiling.

The cellar can be built either under the building, or on open area terrain. In the first option, the floor is always built flat, and in the second it can also be made gable.

The correct overlap created under the building must necessarily rest on the ground or on the beams. In both options, it is best to use large-panel reinforced concrete slabs. It should not be forgotten that before installing them, it is necessary to first lay boards under the plates, which will be necessary for filing the ceiling surface. The resulting ceiling voids must be filled with heat-insulating material before filing. The slabs must be welded at their crest and rest on the beam, and the lower part on the ground. This position of the plates will reduce the load on the walls.

How to make a basement ceiling in the absence of large-panel reinforced concrete slabs? According to experts, slate can be used, under which a solid base must first be mounted. At the same time, the floor seams are sealed with cement mortar, after which the slate floor is covered with soil, which is tightly compacted.

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Covering the basement during the construction of the garage

Many vehicle owners have a garage that has basement from concrete blocks. Such a garage will allow you to store in it not only equipment and spare parts, but also products. In order to feel completely safe while in the garage, you need to adhere to some fundamental conditions when building a cellar.

When building a basement, the main attention should be paid to the design of the floor itself, since its diversity depends on the size of the garage, the size of the basement, and, of course, on the amount of equipment that will be left in the garage. Experts recommend providing for a basement in terms of implementation construction works even before they start. Then, when organizing the sequence of work, it will be possible to optimally take into account all the requirements imposed on the design.

One of the important parameters of the overlap is its strength. It should not be forgotten that it primarily depends on the strength of the support of this overlap. In the complex construction of a garage with a basement, it is best to use standard concrete slabs as a floor. Thus, the basement walls will act as a supporting foundation for the entire garage building and at the same time a support element.

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The influence of soil on the construction of the basement

During operation, the basement walls will be subjected to horizontal forces from all sides of the surrounding soil. These forces are trying to deform them. Based on this, the thickness of the walls being erected should increase in proportion to the depth of the pit. Cellar walls are best built from concrete blocks. If there are not enough funds to purchase them, you can build instead concrete walls using sliding formwork.

The bottom of the cellar is covered with a layer of crushed stone approximately 10 cm thick and a layer of sand at least 5 cm thick. After that, a strip foundation. It should be noted that the walls of the cellar, its ceiling and the entire structure of the garage space will affect this foundation.

In order to do everything properly, experts recommend conducting survey work at the building site. This will make it possible to find out if underground utilities are located below, for example, an electric or telephone cable, or maybe groundwater is close enough to the surface.

When the garage is planned to be placed on soil that is abundantly saturated with moisture, it is necessary to create a circular drainage system - this will allow moisture to be removed from the area adjacent to the garage. But under any circumstances, it is necessary to perform external waterproofing of the cellar foundation.

If the construction will take place on sufficiently dry ground, waterproofing can be done by applying two layers of hot bitumen. If the soil at the construction site is wet, it will be necessary to glue the concrete blocks with a rolled roofing material, which has a bitumen base.

Excellent waterproof and at the same time also insulation material considered polystyrene foam. This material is highly resistant to rot and mildew. Installation of this type of insulation is done by gluing concrete blocks from their outer side. It should be noted that the size of the plates is carefully adjusted to each other, and the joints are also subject to finishing.

Most car owners prefer to have a garage with a concrete block basement. In such a garage you can store food, spare parts and equipment. In order to feel safe while in the garage, some fundamental conditions should be observed when building a cellar. When constructing a basement, the main attention should be paid to the design of the cellar ceiling. It can be varied and depend on the size of the garage, the size of the basement and the number of cars left in the garage. It is best to plan for a basement before starting the construction of a garage. Then, during the organization of the work sequence, all design requirements can be optimally met. When arranging the cellar, after the garage is built, there are inconveniences that require time and effort.

The scheme of the cellar in the garage.

The focus should be on strength concrete floors over the basement. Its strength is greatly influenced by the support of this overlap. With a complex arrangement of a garage with a basement, standard concrete slabs are most often used as a floor. In this version, the walls of the cellar turn out to be the supporting foundation for the entire garage and at the same time the support on which the ceiling is placed. During operation, horizontal forces from the surrounding soil begin to act on the walls of the basement. These forces tend to deform the basement walls. Therefore, the thickness of the walls should increase in proportion to the depth of the basement. The bottom of the excavated pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone 10 cm and sand 5 cm. Then a strip foundation is made. A garage with all its weight, cellar walls and ceiling will act on this foundation. Basement walls are best built from concrete blocks. But if it's too expensive, then instead of concrete blocks, you can make the walls concrete using sliding formwork.

The layout of the cellar in the garage.

If everything is done properly, then you need to order survey work at the construction site. This will allow you to find out if there are any underground utilities below, for example, electrical or telephone cable, or closely located ground water. If the garage is on soil saturated with moisture, then you need to make a circular drainage system to remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. In any case, you need waterproofing of the foundation and basement blocks from the outside. If the construction is on dry ground, then it is enough to coat the blocks outside with hot bitumen in two layers. If the soil is wet, then it is required to paste the blocks with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Expanded polystyrene is a good insulating and at the same time waterproof material. This material has a high resistance to mold and decay. Installation of such a heater is done by simply pasting the blocks on the outside. The size of the plates must be carefully adjusted to each other. The joints are also glued.

Basement plan.

If the basement is being built in a built garage, then standard concrete slabs cannot be used as floors, because they are installed by a crane. Overlapping is done by laying load-bearing beams. It is best to use I-beams. Motorists use for this purpose pieces of railway rails purchased at scrap metal collection points. Mine rails for the carrier beam will be rather weak. They can be used as transverse elements laid perpendicular to the supporting beams. For the ends of the load-bearing beams, beds are provided on the walls of the basement. In general, the walls of the basement serve as the foundation for the entire garage. Into the space between load-bearing beams fittings are installed. The lower formwork is installed, on which the concrete is laid. It turns out a homemade reinforced concrete slab.

If the size of the cellar in terms of is small compared to the area of the garage, then there may be another option for overlapping above the basement. If the car is placed in a place under which there is no basement, then only an inspection ditch is arranged at the place of its installation. The basement will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the car and its overlap can be made lightweight. In all cases, the ceiling above the basement requires insulation. Insulation ensures the absence of wet condensate and therefore directly affects the protection metal structures from corrosion. Great importance for the absence of humidity is given to the ventilation of the cellar and garage. Insulation and ventilation need to be considered in more detail.

Insulation of the ceiling, walls and blocks

Scheme of insulation of the cellar floor.

The ceiling of the cellar can be insulated in several ways. One of them is that 15 cm from the ceiling, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are installed horizontally with a fastening pitch of about 60 cm. These pipes can be attached to walls or to the ceiling. Reinforcing bars made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm are attached perpendicular to the pipes. They are fixed soft wire. It is better to paint the entire structure with chromium oxide, red lead or other waterproof paint. Polyethylene bags are placed in the space between the ceiling and the resulting structure. Previously, forest moss or chopped straw is placed in the bags and sealed with an iron. The bags are stacked without a gap on each other and tightly between them. Sheets of galvanized iron, waterproof plywood or polyethylene film. They are used as an umbrella, from which condensate must drain into a bucket or some other container along pre-arranged grooves.

Can be used for ceiling insulation building mixture with the addition of cement and sawdust. The layer of such a solution can reach 20 cm. After complete drying, a plaster mortar is applied after a few days. Basement walls can also be insulated in the same way. The floor is insulated with glass wool or other insulation laid between the logs under the finishing coating. If the groundwater level is high, then a drainage system should be arranged around the garage. The bottom of the cellar deepens by 30 cm from the expected floor level. A layer of crushed stone of about 10 cm is poured onto the leveled soil. Sand is poured onto the crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm. All layers are compacted. The cover of the entrance to the basement is made with a grate or mesh, so that the ventilation is better and small animals cannot enter. For the winter, the lid is closed with a heater.

Cellar insulation scheme.

The best insulation for the floor, walls and ceiling will be polyurethane foam. It is applied by spraying directly onto the surface of the insulation. The entire inner surface of the basement is blown with foam. The insulation fills all the cracks, penetrating into inaccessible places. With rapid hardening, a smooth surface is formed without seams and voids. Polyurethane foam has a very low thermal conductivity. It is practically weightless, so it will not additionally load bearing structures. With this method, the basement is insulated very quickly, and the only drawback is the high price of the material.

Space ventilation

Ventilation scheme for the cellar and garage space.

Proper ventilation is a guarantee that moisture will not linger in the basement. With good ventilation, dampness will not damage the food supply. Knowing how dangerous exhaust fumes can be in a garage, ventilation should be at a height and in the main area of the garage. In most cases, it applies natural ventilation, in which the movement of air is carried out due to the temperature difference between the incoming air and the air inside. If the air change is done in insufficient volume, then it makes sense to install a fan. At such a time of the year, when the air temperature outside and inside the cellar is equalized, ventilation stops. There will be no ventilation even when the outside temperature is higher than in the basement. Artificial and natural ventilation can be carried out through one channel. artificial ventilation may have one hole.

Garage ventilation not only protects food and wall surfaces, but also the car itself. When the car is put in the garage in winter, snow remains on the wheels and body. After thawing, the air becomes very humid, which increases the likelihood of corrosion of metal parts.

Working conditions

Scheme of ventilation of the cellar and garage.

Hole supply pipe arrange at a distance of 10-15 cm from the cellar floor. Above the ground, the suction hole should be at a height of 30-40 cm. It is supplied with a mesh from the penetration of small animals. The hole must be protected by a so-called deflector. This device consists of a sheet curved in an arc and attached in the form of a fungus to the suction port. The deflector is designed to protect against precipitation.

For natural ventilation to work, there must be a difference in height between the suction and outlet openings in the ventilation pipes. The minimum value of such a difference, providing a pressure drop, is 3 meters.

The supply pipe should be positioned so that it is constantly affected by the wind. The lack of natural ventilation is manifested in very coldy when the pipe may be covered with frost. To prevent this shortcoming, it is necessary to insulate pipelines. Periodically, pipes should be cleaned of snow and frost.

Cellar ventilation scheme.

It turns out that natural ventilation can fail, not coping with the work year-round. Therefore, in exhaust pipe you can put in a fan. It pushes the exhaust air into the pipe and creates conditions for the influx of fresh air. The disadvantage is that in the cold season, the basement and garage can become supercooled. There are systems with fans at the inlet and outlet, and a two-speed fan is installed at the outlet. The ventilation control system is equipped with temperature and gas level sensors. When the garage fills with exhaust gases, the second exhaust fan speed is turned on. Modern systems in European garages, they are equipped with fans, taking into account the need for an optimal climate in the garage. All switching and fan speeds are controlled by a computer program. We consider the simplest devices and the usual garage of our domestic motorist so that the owner of the garage has a good idea of the effect of ventilation and takes timely measures to eliminate failures.

Implementation results

Scheme of a garage with a cellar.

A garage with a cellar made of concrete blocks is a fairly reliable structure. No one denies the usefulness and functionality of such a structure. However, when installing the ceiling of the cellar in the garage, all the nuances associated with the distribution of loads on the walls of concrete blocks, the effect of insulation and ventilation on the state of the structure and the atmosphere of the garage should be foreseen. When planning, you need to organize the sequence of work in such a way as to provide maximum comfort. It is best to design a garage completely with a basement of concrete blocks so that the functionality of all devices is ensured. Neglect of insulation can damage the ceiling due to increased moisture condensation, followed by corrosion of the supporting structures.

The ventilation value is also high to prevent unnecessary condensation. Insufficient waterproofing of walls and foundations, as well as the absence of circular drainage system can lead to basement flooding. Such a garage will turn into a breeding ground for mosquitoes with a marsh smell.

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Basement hatches should:

Look good.
Securely close the entrance to the basement.

How to build a hatch in the basement

Metal corners.
Rubber for sealing.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for fixing the sheet.
Bulgarian.
Electric drill.
Roulette.

Work procedure

tile;
board;
parquet.

Once a year it is recommended to open the hatch and clean it. What basement hatches can be made independently well shows our instructions and videos on our portal. => Luke To The Basement With Your Own Hands => => publish => open => closed => => lyuk-v-podval-44 => => => 2019-03-27 20:07:08 => 2019-03 -27 16:07:08 => => 0 =>?p=676 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 676 => 2 => 2015-06-12 20:14:15 => 2015-06-12 16:14:15 => Basement hatch Basement hatches are devices that provide entry to the basement. When it quality workmanship it is possible not only to save space in the home, but it also allows you to hide the presence of the basement itself. For many, this is a must. Here you can store unnecessary things, potatoes, canned food and other food products. A feature of the basement is to maintain the temperature at approximately the same level throughout the entire period. How to make a hatch in the basement with your own hands is invited to learn from this article.

Features of the construction of the hatch for entering the basement

Basement hatches should:

Look good.
How best to fit into their surroundings.
Securely close the entrance to the basement.
Have a fairly simple mechanism for opening the cellar.
Even with the very large dimensions of the hatch itself, the mechanism for opening it should be convenient, and the device should open with little effort.
Most often, the hatch is an ordinary wooden square of small thickness, lifted with the help of two handles.
With a product weight of more than 10 kilograms, the device of the electric motor and other elements of the automatic system will be useful.

Electric sunroof

The dimensions of the hatch must correspond to the shaft of the basement being created. Otherwise, numerous problems may arise, which, after detection, will create difficulties and the hatch construction process will have to be started from the very beginning.
The hatch should be of such a design that the passage is easily hidden by the floor covering. In this case, its upper plane should be at floor level.
The design of the device must be reliable, during the day it will probably be stepped on more than a dozen times.

Tip: How complex the hatch device will be depends on its owner. In any case, it should keep the home well from dampness, which can lead to mold and fungi.

How to build a hatch in the basement

Before you make a hatch in the basement, you need to purchase the following materials and tools:

Metal corners.
Sheet metal, up to 5 mm thick.
Rubber for sealing.
Welding machine and electrodes.
Screwdriver.
Self-tapping screws for fixing the sheet.
Bulgarian.
Electric drill.
Roulette.

Work procedure

You need to start building a floor hatch in the basement by creating a kind of frame for it, which fits perfectly into the overall design. For this:

With the help of electric welding, a blank is assembled from metal corners for the main part of the structure, which can be square or rectangular.

Tip: In this case, it is necessary to provide a gap of up to five millimeters between the frame and the concrete opening filled with sealant.

High density rubber is used for sealing.
The manhole cover can be wooden or metal, it all depends on the preferences and capabilities of the basement owner and on the material that prevails in the interior of the home. IN wooden house basement hatches on top should be the same.
When making a frame from the corners on the lid, sharp edges should be blunted and the dimensions adjusted to the frame. The lid on top should be slightly wider from the bottom.
The dimensions are calculated, taking into account the thickness of the corner shelf, for tightly closing the passage.
In most cases, the manhole cover is put on hinges, which can significantly save energy when opening it, and the density of the hatch must be sufficient and prevent moisture from penetrating into the basement.
External hinges are usually purchased at any hardware store. The main thing is that they correspond to the dimensions of the hatch. In this case, some elements are fixed with a loop on metal corners, and the second are attached directly to the lid. For this, it is better to use self-tapping screws.

How to use gas shock absorbers for the floor hatch

Hatch with gas shock absorbers Floor hatches on gas shock absorbers are used for access to various premises, communications located below the floor level. The features of such structures are:

For the manufacture of floor hatches, durable steel with protection is used. powder paint from corrosion.
For assembly, argon-arc welding is used.
For lining the cover, any floor covering up to 20 millimeters high is taken. It could be:

tile;
stone natural or artificial;
board;
parquet.

A neatly mounted and lined floor hatch will become invisible against the general background of the floor covering.

At a small height, the hatch is opened with a handle, then gas springs are used.
Shock absorbers guarantee an easy, smooth, and most importantly safe opening and closing of the hatch without unforeseen jerks to the inspection door.

Tip: The correct calculation of the force for gas shock absorbers allows you to open the inspection hatch without the slightest effort.

A special design allows the manufacture of sufficiently large revision palaces, completely preserving their strength, and even a large manhole cover, with gas shock absorbers and a special hinge design, will open 90 degrees in one motion.
Device for floor hatches in the basement with gas shock absorbers rubber seal, allows you to keep moisture, odors out of the basement and prevent drafts.

What are the features of installing hatches in the basement for tiling

Hatches in the basement under the tiles have some features for installation and maintenance, in addition, the price of such devices is slightly higher than the rest:

In such designs for horizontal installation, troughs are provided at the top.
When laying floor covering, and then setting the hoist operation is prohibited floor hatch.

The procedure for installing a floor hatch under a tile with your own hands and filling its trough is as follows:

Detachable lifting mechanism devices.
The marking of the installation of the structure is being carried out. To do this, the floor hatch fits neatly into the opening. Both levels are adjustable.
The top of the floor hatch should be flush with the bottom tile.
Before filling the trough, it is necessary to disconnect the lifting mechanism and close the hatch leaf; a flat belt must be placed under it for the subsequent lifting of its leaf. The trough of the device is filled with concrete.
After reaching a mixture strength of 90%, the trough opens. The remains of the mortar that remain between the trough and the frame should be removed and the outer edge of the trough should be cleaned and inside frames.
According to the attached diagram of the floor hatch, a lifting mechanism is connected.
Glued finishing material as shown in the photo.

Bonding finishing material

To prevent sticking, after sealing the seams, it is necessary to carefully clean the gap between the frame and the trough.

Tip: To achieve the best heat and noise insulation and the performance of the hatch, no hollow spaces between the opening and the hatch frame should be allowed. They must be carefully sealed with sealant or "foam".

A rubber seal is glued around the perimeter of the frame.

I recently bought myself a house. The former owner turned out to be a decent person and immediately warned me that the boards from which the floor above the basement was made were rotten from time and dampness and required urgent replacement. He probably feared that one beautiful moment I can fall into it. The basement itself was located in the house under the kitchen and had the following dimensions: width - 2.4 m, length - 2.3 m. From the inside it was lined with brick and covered with a layer of clay.
The floor above him lay on two wooden beams and consisted of boards and chipboard boards laid on top of them. It was made crooked and deteriorated to such an extent that it was really dangerous to walk on it. All the wood was beaten by carpenter beetles, and some chipboard dampened and became loose.
At first, I expected to simply replace the boards on it, but then, after thinking it over slowly, I decided to do metal carcass and fill it with concrete. Firstly, there will always be dampness in the basement, whatever one may say, which means that new boards, given the current quality of the forest, will definitely not be enough for a long time, and secondly, if you do it, then it will be reliable, once and for all, and what could be stronger than concrete?

Dismantling the old floor
The first step was to remove the chipboard, and then the boards. With the help of a nail puller, a hammer and a crowbar, I managed to do it in three hours. There were no problems with the plates, but it took more time to disassemble the boards: they were nailed to the beams with huge nails, so they came off with great difficulty. After wood flooring the floor was completely removed, I had to remove a decent layer of earth (one bayonet) around the entire perimeter near the walls with a shovel in order to remove all existing irregularities and plan the surface. This case took up the rest of the day. The next morning was welding work.

Frame manufacturing
I did not regret the metal for the manufacture of the frame. Perhaps he used it even more than necessary, but only in order not to put additional pillars inside the cellar, reducing its free space. The construction was based on thick-walled pipes (? 61 mm, wall thickness 5 mm), which I did not even have to buy. The fact is that earlier heating was made from them in the house. It looked terrible, cumbersome, so it was only natural that I removed all this iron from the rooms, replacing it with modern ones. heating appliances. And the pipes, as you can see, were useful for the basement.

First, I evenly distributed four powerful three-meter pipes, which are load-bearing beams, over the cellar pit (after 80 cm). Then, setting them exactly on the level, he began to weld them together. To do this, I needed pipes of smaller diameter (? 32 mm - 12 m) and thick fittings (? 12 mm - 40 m). First of all, I welded 15 lintels between the beams, after which I tightened the entire structure with reinforcing bars welded to them from below. The result is a very durable metal frame.

Separately, I would like to dwell on the manufacture of a frame framing the entrance to the basement. I made it from profile pipe 40/20 mm in the shape of a rectangle (length - 70 cm, width - 50 cm). What is there to pay attention to? Firstly, all corners of the frame must be perfectly straight, the dimensions of the sides must be strictly maintained, otherwise the lid will not fit tightly into it, and it will begin to see through from the cellar. Secondly, it should be welded in such a way that it is at the same height as the pipe-beams, which are also beacons.

The cover itself was also made by me from a profile pipe (40/20 mm) and a thick piece of plywood, securely connected to its metal base with self-tapping screws. The limiter for the lid, excluding the possibility of its falling into the basement, served as a corner welded to the underside of the framing frame. On that day, I worked with welding from the bottom of my heart: from early morning until late at night, but still finished the job. I burned almost two packs of some electrodes, and inhaled caustic smoke - horror! (the pipes were covered in paint).

Formwork installation
The metal frame was ready, but now I had to solve a new problem - to mount the formwork over the cellar. Were considered different variants its manufacture, but in the end my choice fell on chipboard, which were removed from the old floor. Why? First, close large space they were easier and faster over the pit, and secondly, thanks to the slabs, there were practically no cracks where liquid concrete could spill. I fastened them to the frame from the underside with a thick knitting wire: first, I drilled holes in the chipboard with a drill, then threaded the wire into them, after which I screwed it tightly to the reinforcement with pliers. It turned out reliably, but, given the severity of the concrete, just in case, I put a few temporary props from below.

Concrete work is a serious challenge, especially if you need to concrete 12 m in one day? with a layer thickness of 10 cm. For this reason, I called a friend for help, having previously prepared everything necessary for this business: gravel screening, cement, a mixing trough, shovels, buckets, a rule. We distributed as follows: together we kneaded concrete (in a ratio of 1/5), then one brought it in buckets to the place of pouring and poured it, and the other leveled it ready mix three-meter rule, tightly pressing it to the lighthouses and making frequent oscillatory movements to the sides.

The two worked on the hunt. Having started work at eight o'clock in the morning, by lunchtime we had already finished pouring. The result pleased. The floor came out smooth, and the whole room immediately changed. Two days later, when it was already possible to walk on concrete, I took the old car drive and, making circular movements with it on the surface of the floor, removed from it small bumps. Now all that was left was to wait for the concrete to dry completely.

final chord
A week passed, and I started the final work. First of all, I richly painted the dried concrete surface primer. But not for beauty, no, but to reduce the amount of dust that inevitably forms when walking. When the paint was dry, I put a waterproofing film on the floor to prevent the penetration of moisture from the concrete into the linoleum. After that, as you may have guessed, linoleum was laid, but not simple, but thick, insulated, with an abrasion-resistant surface that is not even afraid of being dragged over it. Expensive pleasure (price running meter about 2 thousand rubles), but, believe me, it is worth the money spent.

I trimmed the entrance to the basement and the lid itself with a decorative metal corner. It turned out neat and beautiful: under the corner, I managed to hide the unevenly cut edges of the linoleum, besides, he pressed them tightly to the surface. I made the handle for the lid not ordinary, but removable so that it does not interfere with walking. To do this, I drilled a cover in the center, screwed a metal plate on its reverse side, to which I spot-welded a regular nut. Under it, he made a special key, which is a small twig with a thread and a knob at the end.

The main attention should be paid to the strength of the concrete floors above the basement. Its strength is greatly influenced by the support of this overlap. With a complex arrangement of a garage with a basement, standard concrete slabs are most often used as a floor. In this version, the walls of the cellar turn out to be the supporting foundation for the entire garage and at the same time the support on which the ceiling is placed. During operation, horizontal forces from the surrounding soil begin to act on the walls of the basement. These forces tend to deform the basement walls. Therefore, the thickness of the walls should increase in proportion to the depth of the basement. The bottom of the excavated pit is covered with a layer of crushed stone 10 cm and sand 5 cm. Then a strip foundation is made. A garage with all its weight, cellar walls and ceiling will act on this foundation. Basement walls are best built from concrete blocks. But if it's too expensive, then instead of concrete blocks, you can make the walls concrete using sliding formwork.

If everything is done properly, then you need to order survey work at the construction site. This will let you know if there are underground utilities below, such as electrical or telephone cable, or nearby groundwater. If the garage is on soil saturated with moisture, then you need to make a circular drainage system to remove moisture from the area adjacent to the garage. In any case, you need waterproofing of the foundation and basement blocks from the outside. If the construction is on dry ground, then it is enough to coat the blocks outside with hot bitumen in two layers. If the soil is wet, then it is required to paste the blocks with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Expanded polystyrene is a good insulating and at the same time waterproof material. This material has a high resistance to mold and decay. Installation of such a heater is done by simply pasting the blocks on the outside. The size of the plates must be carefully adjusted to each other. The joints are also glued.

Cellar in built garage

If the basement is being built in a built garage, then standard concrete slabs cannot be used as floors, because they are installed by a crane. Overlapping is done by laying load-bearing beams. It is best to use I-beams. Motorists use for this purpose pieces of railway rails purchased at scrap metal collection points. Mine rails for the carrier beam will be rather weak. They can be used as transverse elements laid perpendicular to the supporting beams. For the ends of the load-bearing beams, beds are provided on the walls of the basement. In general, the walls of the basement serve as the foundation for the entire garage. Reinforcement is placed in the space between the supporting beams. The lower formwork is installed, on which the concrete is laid. It turns out a homemade reinforced concrete slab.

If the size of the cellar in terms of is small compared to the area of \u200b\u200bthe garage, then there may be another option. If the car is placed in a place under which there is no basement, then only an inspection ditch is arranged at the place of its installation. The basement will be located in a place where there is no load from the weight of the car and its overlap can be made lightweight. In all cases, the ceiling above the basement requires insulation. Insulation ensures the absence of wet condensate and therefore directly affects the protection of metal structures from corrosion. Great importance for the absence of humidity is given to the ventilation of the cellar and garage. Insulation and ventilation need to be considered in more detail.

Insulation of the ceiling, walls and blocks

You can insulate in several ways. One of them is that 15 cm from the ceiling, pipes with a diameter of 25 mm are installed horizontally with a fastening pitch of about 60 cm. These pipes can be attached to walls or to the ceiling. Reinforcing bars made of wire with a diameter of 8-10 mm are attached perpendicular to the pipes. They are attached with soft wire. It is better to paint the entire structure with chromium oxide, red lead or other waterproof paint. Polyethylene bags are placed in the space between the ceiling and the resulting structure. Previously, forest moss or chopped straw is placed in the bags and sealed with an iron. The bags are stacked without a gap on each other and tightly between them. Sheets of galvanized iron, waterproof plywood or plastic wrap are laid on top. They are used as an umbrella, from which condensate must drain into a bucket or some other container along pre-arranged grooves.

It is possible to use a mortar with the addition of cement and sawdust to insulate the ceiling. The layer of such a solution can reach 20 cm. After complete drying, a plaster mortar is applied after a few days. Basement walls can also be insulated in the same way. The floor is insulated with glass wool or other insulation laid between the logs under the finishing coating. If the groundwater level is high, then a drainage system should be arranged around the garage. The bottom of the cellar deepens by 30 cm from the expected floor level. A layer of crushed stone of about 10 cm is poured onto the leveled soil. Sand is poured onto the crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm. All layers are compacted. The cover of the entrance to the basement is made with a grate or mesh, so that the ventilation is better and small animals cannot enter. For the winter, the lid is closed with a heater.

The best insulation for the floor, walls and ceiling will be polyurethane foam. It is applied by spraying directly onto the surface of the insulation. The entire inner surface of the basement is blown with foam. The insulation fills all the cracks, penetrating into inaccessible places. With rapid hardening, a smooth surface is formed without seams and voids. Polyurethane foam has a very low thermal conductivity. It is practically weightless, so it will not additionally load the supporting structures. With this method, the basement is insulated very quickly, and the only drawback is the high price of the material.

Space ventilation

Proper ventilation is a guarantee that moisture will not linger in the basement. With good ventilation, dampness will not damage the food supply. Knowing how dangerous exhaust fumes can be in a garage, ventilation should be at a height and in the main area of the garage. In most cases, natural ventilation is used, in which the movement of air is carried out due to the temperature difference between the incoming air and the air inside. If the air change is done in insufficient volume, then it makes sense to install a fan. At such a time of the year, when the air temperature outside and inside the cellar is equalized, ventilation stops. There will be no ventilation even when the outside temperature is higher than in the basement. Artificial and natural ventilation can be carried out through one channel. Artificial ventilation can be with one hole.

Working conditions

The opening of the supply pipe is arranged at a distance of 10-15 cm from the cellar floor. Above the ground, the suction hole should be at a height of 30-40 cm. It is supplied with a mesh from the penetration of small animals. The hole must be protected by a so-called deflector. This device consists of a sheet curved in an arc and attached in the form of a fungus to the suction port. The deflector is designed to protect against precipitation.

For natural ventilation to work, there must be a height difference between the intake and outlet openings in the ventilation pipes. The minimum value of such a difference, providing a pressure drop, is 3 meters.

The supply pipe should be positioned so that it is constantly affected by the wind. The lack of natural ventilation is manifested in severe frosts, when the pipe can be covered with frost. To prevent this shortcoming, it is necessary to insulate pipelines. Periodically, pipes should be cleaned of snow and frost.

It turns out that natural ventilation can fail, not coping with the work year-round. Therefore, a fan can be inserted into the chimney. It pushes the exhaust air into the pipe and creates conditions for the influx of fresh air. The disadvantage is that in the cold season, the basement and garage can become supercooled. There are systems with fans at the inlet and outlet, and a two-speed fan is installed at the outlet. The ventilation control system is equipped with temperature and gas level sensors. When the garage fills with exhaust gases, the second exhaust fan speed is turned on. Modern systems in European garages are equipped with fans, taking into account the need for an optimal climate in the garage. All switching and fan speeds are controlled by a computer program. We consider the simplest devices and the usual garage of our domestic motorist so that the owner of the garage has a good idea of the effect of ventilation and takes timely measures to eliminate failures.

Implementation results

A garage with a cellar made of concrete blocks is a fairly reliable structure. No one denies the usefulness and functionality of such a structure. However, when installing the ceiling of the cellar in the garage, all the nuances associated with the distribution of loads on the walls of concrete blocks, the effect of insulation and ventilation on the state of the structure and the atmosphere of the garage should be foreseen. When planning, you need to organize the sequence of work in such a way as to provide maximum convenience for their implementation. It is best to design a garage completely with a basement of concrete blocks so that the functionality of all devices is ensured. Neglect of insulation can damage the ceiling due to increased moisture condensation, followed by corrosion of the supporting structures.

The ventilation value is also high to prevent unnecessary condensation. Insufficient waterproofing of walls and foundations, as well as the absence of a circular drainage system, can lead to basement flooding. Such a garage will turn into a breeding ground for mosquitoes with a marsh smell.