We make a garden table with our own hands. A detailed story on how to make a table for the dacha with your own hands with the choice of wood, step-by-step instructions and tips Schemes of tables made of wood design
A table is furniture that you can’t do without either in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo, or simply in a shady place. You can dine at it, have a feast or play Board games on fresh air. You can only buy a small plastic table inexpensively; a large wooden table for a summer house is cheaper to make with your own hands. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.
Table dimensions and construction features
The optimal size of a tabletop for a garden table is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a larger table will be too bulky and difficult to put away for the winter. The table size of 80x120 cm will allow you to hold ceremonial feasts with the number of participants 8 - 10 people.
The easiest way to make a table for a summer house is from boards. In addition, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table from wood is that the boards can be sawed right size at any construction base, and without any problems bring it to the dacha, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with table dimensions of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a tabletop board 120 cm long. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.
There are quite a few types of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of the legs on which the tabletop rests. Therefore, the legs of the table are the most complex element the entire structure.
Table top
The tabletop at the table in the country house is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However the best option is a board 40 mm thick.
An important point is cutting the boards. With a tabletop length of 120 cm, 5.3 boards with a width of 150 mm, 6.6 boards with a width of 120 mm and 8 boards with a width of 100 mm are required. Considering that boards are sold in lengths of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the tabletop.
By choosing a board with a width of 100 mm, you will not have to adjust or change the dimensions of the tabletop, which will greatly simplify the work of arranging the table. In addition, there will be 2 more boards 120 mm long, which can be used for other parts.
If you can’t purchase the right board, you can make the tabletop not continuous, but with intervals. Such a tabletop will look no less interesting. In this case, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid tabletop will flow through the gaps between the boards.
Table with straight legs
Table with straight legs simple design table for the garden. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.
Fig.1.
The legs for the table consist of 4 elements: 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal rack is attached to the tabletop, the lower one is a support.
Fig.2.
The design of the legs may vary. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make the support rest on vertical racks, and the bottom board can be made as an additional one for strength.
Please note that in this design, the boards are connected without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. To ensure that all elements are well secured, all joints must be glued with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.
Fig.3.
- Assemble the legs. To do this, you need to cut the board according to the drawing. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or confirmant.
- Lay out the boards for the tabletop on a level surface, mark the position of the legs and secure the tabletop boards through the top strip of the legs.
- Install a horizontal tie between the legs.
- Wait 2 - 3 hours until the glue dries and remove burrs and sharp edges from the table.
- Next, the table can be varnished. Or simply treat with an antiseptic.
Table with X-shaped legs
A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to manufacture without creating additional grooves on the legs. This makes the work somewhat more difficult.
Fig.4.
The table legs consist of 3 elements. Two crossing supports and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for attaching the tabletop.
Fig.5.
To connect the legs in the inclined supports, you need to make a slot in the floor of the board.
Fig.6.
The table assembly procedure is as follows:
- Cut the boards to the required length.
- A groove is made in the legs into the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a router.
- Assemble the legs. The connections are glued. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- Lay out the tabletop boards and attach the assembled legs to them.
- Install the bottom screed board.
- The table is treated to remove burrs and varnished.
Table with benches
A table with benches is quite often installed on verandas or in the open air. Unlike the designs described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs; the benches are included in the design of the table.
Fig.7.
The disadvantage of this version of the table for the dacha is that the design is quite bulky, and putting it away for the winter becomes very problematic.
Fig.8.
A special feature of the table design is that the benches are attached directly to the table legs. The crossbars on which the benches are attached simultaneously act as a tie for the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal tie.
Fig.9.
The procedure for assembling a table with benches is as follows:
- Cut the boards to the required length.
- Assemble the legs and support for the bench flooring. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
- Mark the boards for the tabletop and mount them to the legs.
- Benches are secured.
- Treat with impregnation or antiseptic.
Examples of garden tables
Fig. 10.
Fig. 11.
Fig. 12.
Fig. 13.
Fig. 14.
Fig. 15.
Fig. 16.
Fig. 17.
A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.
For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is extremely small in size. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.
In addition, there is often a desire to express one’s Creative skills in the conditions of a dacha, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo in a suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.
To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.
Tools for work
Before starting work, you need to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.
You can use regular, traditional hand tools, which carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:
- A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
- Chisels for sampling various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
- Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
- Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
- Screwdriver Set.
- Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
- Sandpaper for sanding.
Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:
- An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.
Rating of jigsaws - A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating a very tedious procedure. manual processing sandpaper.
- Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help to round sharp corners, will drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate the table with a relief pattern.
- will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).
- The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.
To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage
Anyone can make a table like this Necessary materials
For such a country house, which has a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too many wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:
- Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
- Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
- Wood glue.
- Board size:
- 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
- 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
- 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
- 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).
All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, the top is carefully sanded with a sanding machine. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.
Installation of a garden table
When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.
Frame or “box” of the table - The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680×100×25 mm and two end boards 850×100×25 mm, laid out on big table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.
The elements can be connected in different ways:
Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners - using a steel angle - this is the simplest and reliable way;
- the insertion method is a more complex method, as it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;
Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle - “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;
- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.
- All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
- The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
- If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.
- When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.
- The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.
- Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.
- After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.
The next step is installing the legs - The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
- The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.
- After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in dacha gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.
If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.
Small folding table for the kitchen
This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.
- Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
- The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
- The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
- In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
- If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.
Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.
Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.
Necessary materials and parts for a folding table
To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:
Diagram of the table with the numbers of assembly parts marked (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) | Part number on the drawing | the name of detail | Quantity, pcs. | Part size, mm | Material of manufacture, thickness, mm |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Folding part of the table top. | 1 | 600×600 | |
| 2 | Fixed table top of the cabinet. | 1 | 600×475 | Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick |
| 3 | 2 | 530×30 | ||
| 4 | 2 | 120×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| 5 | The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×30 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 6 | Groove element for leg movement on a folding tabletop. | 2 | 530×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 7 | A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet. | 2 | 120×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 8 | The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg. | 1 | 122×20 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick |
| 9 | Side walls of the table cabinet. | 2 | 720×520 | MDF 19 mm |
| 10 | Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves. | 3 | 520×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 11 | The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 12 | The upper vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet. | 1 | 312×184 | MDF 19 mm |
| 13 | The middle horizontal part of the cabinet. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 14 | Cabinet door. | 1 | 477×346 | MDF 19 mm |
| 15 | Cabinet shelf. | 1 | 310×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 16 | Cabinet drawer front panel. | 1 | 346×209 | MDF 19 mm |
| 17 | The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel). | 1 | 418×312 | MDF 19 mm |
| 18 | Drawer side panels. | 2 | 341×250 | MDF 19 mm |
| 19 | Back panel of the drawer. | 1 | 272×120 | MDF 19 mm |
| 20 | Drawer bottom panel. | 1 | 341×272 | MDF 19 mm |
| Handles for drawers and cabinet doors. | 2 | Ø 30 mm | Wood | |
| Upper leg element. | 1 | 80×80×18 | Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick | |
| Mobile table leg. | 1 | Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702 | Wood | |
| Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop. | 2 | Ø 50 mm | Metal | |
| Furniture door hinges. | 2 | The size depends on the shape. | Metal | |
| Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet. | 2 | 20×300×5 | Plywood 5 mm |
The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.
Main dimensions of the table (illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) 
Individual table components – drawer and a guide channel for moving the leg (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.
Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.
Installation of a folding table-cabinet
You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the tabletop. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | The first step is to make 25 mm thick plywood using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm. |
 | Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make one yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope. |
 | Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it. |
 | Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded. |
 | The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way. |
 | The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are made for installing furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws. |
 | After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have one edge, and short elements There are 45˚ cuts on both sides so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving. |
 | The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by treating the timber required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue. |
 | Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made. |
 | The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet. |
 | The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy. |
 | If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels. |
 | The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws. |
 | In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back from the edge of the panel 50 mm and find a convenient height position, mark the point through which to drill through hole to secure the handle. |
 | All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment. |
 | Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls. |
 | Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue is in assembled structure dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries. |
 | While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom. |
 | The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners. |
 | When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur. |
 | If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed. |
 | Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel, through which the handle is screwed. |
 | Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm. |
 | Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports. |
 | When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room. |
 | When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms. |
If there is a need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then do not delay self-made. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.
For those who are confident in their abilities, another interesting option is offered round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.
Video: example of assembling a round table
And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:
Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design
Arranging a summer house is a constant process. Either you build something or improve it. Moreover, furniture is constantly needed and tables are most in demand in the country. And put it in the garden, and near the house, and also in . We will tell you how to make a table for a summer house with your own hands in this article using the example of ready-made projects.
Homemade table from pallet boards
The material for this table was disassembled pallets. Naturally, you can use new boards. There is only one condition - they must be dry. You can buy dry ones (this costs more) or buy regular ones, put them somewhere in ventilated stacks and keep them for at least 4 months, or better yet, six months. In general, any furniture, including, is made from dry wood.
We are assembling a table for the street - to put it in a gazebo, so we will not glue the boards of the tabletop, but will fasten them from below, using planks. This is a very simple country table and very cheap.
Having disassembled the pallets, we get boards with individual colors and patterns. Having worked a little magic, rearranging them several dozen times in different ways, we achieve the required result. It turns out to be quite a nice tabletop.
Take the side parts of the pallet. We use them for the table frame. We first sand them with coarse sandpaper, then fine sand them to the required smoothness (grain 120 and 220).
We take the planks that remained unused and use them to fasten the tabletop. We place them in the place where the joints of the boards are located. We use two screws to fasten each board with a joint, and one for a solid one.
From the treated sidewalls and two boards (also sanded) we assemble the table frame. We fasten its parts with self-tapping screws at the end (two for each joint). The frame can be glued or also “planted” on self-tapping screws. Only they are long. For each, we pre-drill holes with a drill whose diameter is slightly smaller than the diameter of the screws.
We turn the assembled tabletop over and sand it. The procedure is the same - first use sandpaper with coarse grains, then with fine grains.
Next is installing the legs. We select four boards of the same size, check their length, and adjust if necessary. Then - sanding again. This is easier than sanding the legs that are already screwed on. We screw the sanded boards to the frame. These will be the legs. For each there are two self-tapping screws, fixed diagonally (look at the photo). For greater stability, we install jumpers at the bottom. You can leave about 10 cm from the floor to the lintels. We connect everything with self-tapping screws, so that the boards do not crack, we pre-drill holes.
After removing the dust, varnish again. In theory, the varnish should lie flat, but it depends on the wood, so another sanding/painting cycle may be needed. As a result, we get this homemade country table.
If you don’t like mismatched boards and traces of old nails, you can make the same design into boards. This table can be rectangular, or square. All sizes are arbitrary - please see the space available.
Country table made from leftover boards
This DIY garden table is assembled from leftover boards different breeds and sizes. Pine boards 25 mm thick and 50 mm wide were used for the tabletop frame, and 15*50 mm leftovers for the legs. We make the frame according to the dimensions you need. This table will stand on the veranda, which is small in width. So let's make it narrow - 60 cm, and length 140 cm. The height of the legs is 80 cm (everyone in the family is tall).
Immediately cut two long boards of 140 cm each. To make the tabletop width 60 cm, subtract twice the thickness of the board used - this is 5 cm. Short bars should be 60 cm - 5 cm = 55 cm. Fold the frame, following right angles, twist with self-tapping screws. We check whether the bars are folded correctly - we measure the diagonals, they should be the same.
We cut the boards into four 80 cm boards and attach them from the inside to the assembled frame. You can use 4 screws for each leg.
At approximately the middle of the height of the legs we attach the crossbars. This is a frame for a shelf. The shelf can be used for its intended purpose, and it also increases the rigidity of the structure. We fasten strictly at right angles, checking with a large square.
We put the frame on the floor and check whether it wobbles or not. If everything is done correctly, it should stand rigidly. Next, take sandpaper or a sander and sand.
Let's start assembling the tabletop. From finishing works There were boards of different types of wood left, some painted with stain. We alternate boards of different colors.
We fasten the tabletop boards with finishing nails, carefully finishing them off with a hammer. You can secure it to the shelf with regular nails or self-tapping screws. Then we smooth it out with a sander. The last stage is painting. Very unlucky with the choice of varnish. Bought too dark appearance didn't like it. I'll have to sand it again and paint it a different color.
Wooden table with glued top
This design features L-shaped legs. They are assembled from boards of the same thickness. In this case 20 mm. In order for them to hold well, 5 self-tapping screws are needed. We pre-drill holes with a drill with a diameter 1-2 mm smaller than the diameter of the screws. Then, using a drill of a larger diameter, we drill recesses for the caps. The diameter can be matched to furniture plugs of a suitable color or made from a wooden rod. Another option is to use wood putty, to which you add wood dust that remains after sanding. After drying and sanding, the marks will be difficult to find.
When assembling the legs, you must ensure that the angle is exactly 90°. You can choose timber as a pattern. First, coat the joint of the two parts of the leg with wood glue, then install the screws in the following sequence: first the two outer ones, then the middle one, and only then the other two. After the glue has dried, we sand the legs, varnish them and dry them.
It's time to make the tabletop. We assemble it from boards of the same thickness. We select the size as needed. You can use fragments different widths. It is only important that everything looks organic, and that the sides of the boards are smooth and fit together without gaps.
We coat the sides of the boards selected for the tabletop with glue, lay them on a flat surface (some kind of table) and tighten them with clamps. In this case, we got by with one, but preferably at least three. We tighten it so that there are no gaps in the resulting shield. Leave it for a day. Having removed the clamps, we get an almost finished tabletop. It still needs to be trimmed - to align the edges, and then sand it. You can trim with a jigsaw or regular hand saw. It's difficult to get a straight line using an angle grinder, but you can try. After sanding we get a beautiful table top.
Using the same technique, you can make an oval or round tabletop. You just need to draw the appropriate line and trim the glued boards along it.
To make the table look more attractive, we will make a frame. We take a thin strip, sand it with sandpaper and fasten it around the perimeter of the tabletop. You can also use finishing nails. Only we also first coat the planks with wood glue, and then with nails.
After the glue has dried, we sand the joint again with sandpaper.
Now you can attach the table legs. We assemble a table frame from four boards (there is no photo, but you can do it as in the previous paragraph). We attach it to back side glue the tabletops, then install furniture confirmations through the tabletop. A preliminary hole with an extension for the cap is drilled for the confirmations. The holes for fasteners are masked in the same way as on the legs.
We attach the legs to the fixed frame. We place them inside the frame. You can attach ordinary self-tapping screws. That's it, we made a table for the garden with our own hands.
How to make a garden table from wood with benches
For this table we used 38*89 mm boards (we unraveled them ourselves), but you can take standard sizes. A difference of millimeters will not greatly affect the results. In the photo below you can see what should happen.
To connect the parts, 16 cm long studs with washers and nuts (24 pieces) were used. All other connections are made with nails 80 mm long.
The parts are installed in place, a through hole is drilled with a drill. A stud is installed in it, washers are put on both sides and the nuts are tightened. Everything is tightened with a wrench. Why is this option convenient? For the winter you can disassemble it and take it to a barn or garage.
Making seats
We cut the boards according to the drawing required size. Everything is needed in double quantities - for two seats. We sand the boards, Special attention pay attention to the ends.
The short sections that we use to fasten the three boards of the seat along the edges are cut at an angle of 45°. First, we assemble the structure that is attached to the seat from below. We take a board about 160 cm long and attach two short boards sawn at an angle to the end of it. You need to attach it so that this board is in the middle.
Then we attach the legs to the resulting structure (you can use nails). Then we add more boards cut at an angle and tighten everything with studs and bolts.
We attach the seat boards to the resulting structure. Since this is an outdoor table, there is no need to knock them together closely. Leave a gap between two adjacent ones of at least 5 mm. We nail it to the supports (which have been sawn down), two for each board.
We fasten the finished seats using four boards 160 cm long. We fasten each leg with hairpins (if you walk, you can put two hairpins, installing them diagonally or one above the other).
Assembling the table
The table is assembled according to a different principle. Please note that for the tabletop, the transverse boards along the edges are cut at 52°. We attach them at such a distance that the legs fit in. 2 nails for each board. You can use finishing ones, with small heads, or you can drive them deep and then mask the holes with putty.
Now we need to assemble the cross legs. We take two boards, cross them so that the distance between their ends is 64.5 cm. We outline the intersection with a pencil. At this point you will need to remove the wood to half the thickness of the board.
We make the same notch on the second board. If you fold them, they turn out to be in the same plane. We connect with four nails.
We make the second table leg in the same way. We are not assembling the table yet.
Installing the table
Now you need to attach the legs to the structure on which the benches are installed. We place them at an equal distance from the benches and fasten them with pins.
Now we install the tabletop. We also fasten it with pins. The last stage is painting. Here everyone does as he pleases.
Variations on a theme
According to this drawing, you can make separate benches and a table for a summer house or garden. The design is reliable and simple to implement.
DIY garden table: drawings
We will send the material to you by e-mail
Not everyone likes to buy finished goods for home use. The soul of some people requires creative and practical self-realization. The editors of the online magazine website invites those interested to learn how to make a wooden table with their own hands, what is required for this, and whether there are any pitfalls in such work.
Beautiful wooden product for the kitchen or living room, made with love
Professional carpenters are unlikely to find our step-by-step recommendations, but for novice amateurs the advice will come in handy. First, let's look at what products you can make with your own hands from wood.
Of course, the more skills a person has, the more complex the model he can make. But to build a table with your own hands from wood, there are ready-made drawings and photos to help beginners.
How to choose a material for making your own wooden table for home and garden
What to make from dinner table with your own hands? Best of all - made of wood. The most pliable wood for a new master will be pine. Products made from poplar will look more solemn. For the street you can take mahogany.
If you want a simpler option for your home, then you should consider laminated chipboard with optimal thickness at 25-35 mm. Can be taken on the tabletop wooden boards, birch plywood with a thickness of 35 mm. Legs can be made of metal or wooden beam(about 50 mm thickness).
In order not to make a mistake with the amount of material, a preliminary drawing of the future structure is made with precisely specified dimensions.
Advice! The suitable height of the product varies between 750-800 mm.
Related article:
DIY wooden furniture: for the garden, children's room, kitchen, bathhouse, garden, gazebo; How to restore pieces of furniture, useful tips and recommendations from experts - read in our publication.
What tools are needed to make a wooden table with your own hands?
It doesn’t matter what shape the future table will be: working with wood requires a certain set of tools. You can’t do without a jigsaw, and it will be much easier to work with electric model. To secure all structural elements, use either a drill with a multi-stage drill for holes, or confirmations. To polish the product to perfection, you need a special attachment for a drill.
For greater fastening strength, the tools include wood glue.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands - step-by-step instructions
We have selected four types of structures that can be made on your own, even with a minimum of carpentry skills. We invite you to learn about the stages of manufacturing round and rectangular table, coffee table and model for garden gazebo.
Making a wooden round table
It is easiest to make a round table top and a connecting ring from or with dimensions of 1500 × 1500 mm and 1280 × 1280 mm. You will also need two laminated chipboard strips (1110 × 120 × 25 mm). We will make the legs from four wooden blocks measuring 120 × 50 × 750 mm.
How to make a countertop
How to draw a circle perfectly straight? Place your own thumb on a sheet of plywood in the center with a string and pencil tied to it. The length of the rope from the base to the top should coincide with the radius of the future tabletop. Holding your finger in one place, draw a circle around the full length of the rope with a pencil. All that remains is to cut it out with a jigsaw.
The underframe circle is cut out in the same way.
Making legs
A round table made of wood or chipboard will look charming if you do everything consistently. You won’t have to bother with the legs if your plans aren’t too original. The bars are divided into 4 parts according to the desired size of the table height minus the thickness of the tabletop. First, one leg is cut off, and the other three are aligned along it.
All processing with a grinding machine is carried out immediately.
Advice! You shouldn’t rush into sanding, as the first coat of varnish will reveal all the imperfections.
Assembly of the structure and processing of the finished product
Assembly is carried out in stages. First, align the planks groove to groove. Then the crosspiece of the planks is connected to the legs with confirmations, as in the figure below:
If you want to make the structure stronger, before connecting the legs to the tabletop, coat their upper base with glue.
Advice! Nails are not used in such work: a self-tapping screw or confirmat can be unscrewed without problems, and the connections will be much stronger.
Making a rectangular wooden kitchen table
The rectangular design is classic and very useful in everyday life: it is convenient to cook on such a table and you can comfortably dine at it.
How to make a countertop
A wooden tabletop for a table is made either from a whole sheet of plywood, or from individual edged boards processed to perfect smoothness.
Having fastened the boards with screws and glue, they begin to make the frame.
Making wooden legs for a table and frame
At the heart of the quadrangular models is a frame. It serves to securely fix the legs, ensuring the stability of the entire structure. The tabletop is turned over, a depth of 3-4 cm is measured on each side and the measurements are transferred to the boards. As a result, you will need two boards of shorter length and two longer.
The frame is made of four elements: according to the approximate ratio, these are two boards of X cm and two of 2X cm. They are connected to each other with an overlap one by one, building a rectangle. In order not to break the 90° angle, use any board when working with a screwdriver: it is used to press the structure while tightening the screws.
As soon as the frame box is ready, they begin to make the legs. You can take ready-made balusters for the table, buy metal supports or cut them out of bars according to the desired length according to the drawing.
Both the frame and the legs are subject to mandatory thorough sanding!
Product installation and final finishing
The frame is screwed to the tabletop with glue or self-tapping screws. Then the product is turned over and the legs begin to be attached.
Important! It's better to make holes for the screws in advance. This eliminates the possibility of the wood splitting.
Why don't they use nails and a hammer? Not everyone has the skills to work with a hammer - it’s not only dangerous to hit your finger. Overdoing it can easily damage the wood by splitting it. Confirmations and self-tapping screws hold the tree much more firmly.
As soon as the leg is secured, the angle is immediately checked: there should be no deviation from 90°. The operation is repeated with other legs. You can attach the legs directly through the tabletop, but this will affect the aesthetic component of the product.
Related article:
: photos of the best ideas. What can be made from pallets for an apartment, office and cottage; rules for selecting and processing pallets; Master classes on making a table, sofa, bench, armchair and shelving - read our publication.
Making your own wooden coffee table
Not only a beautiful interior element, but also a useful one. There is no need to look for a visible place to put a book, gadget, glasses, or TV remote control. Such necessary structures are made from different materials: metal, glass, plastic, chipboard, wood. But let's leave other materials alone and concentrate on working with wood.
Choice wooden table top for the table depends on the expectations of the owner of the product. Some people want something massive, while others prefer lighter options. Let's stick to a simple solution.
We purchase five boards 30 × 150 mm and process them to perfect smoothness. Immediately saw off the required length onto the tabletop: you should get 6 identical sheets. We take four bars for the legs, 6 shorter pieces for the lower tabletop, and 4 narrow slats for the frame.
| Illustration | Description of action |
|---|---|
 | To brush wood, use a grinder with a brass brush attachment. The procedure will expose the structure of the wood, giving the product a special flavor. |
 | We go back and forth along each board on the side that will be the front. |
 | We treat the wood with fire. The flame is gradually moved from place to place: the board will acquire a beautiful darkish tint. The procedure will completely destroy unnecessary soft wood fibers. We actively wipe the entire surface with a felt boot or a piece of felt. |
Let's start the assembly process small table with your own hands made of wood.
- The lower and upper tabletops are laid on work surface wrong side towards you. The boards are laid tightly together, gluing them together. Once the boards have set, slats are attached to the top tabletop. They will serve as a frame and fastening element. They can be glued or screwed with self-tapping screws. The self-tapping screw is screwed into the center of the slats into each of the boards.
- The legs are screwed to both the tabletop and the slats. You can use furniture corners.
Video: the process of making a coffee table from wood
Making your own wooden table with benches for a gazebo
It's time to take the time and build a wooden garden table.
It is best to take standard size boards. At a hardware store, you can purchase studs (suitable for a length of 16 cm) and washers (24 pieces). For a garden gazebo, long nails (8 cm) will do.
Whether to paint a product or simply varnish it is a matter of taste.
After a hard week at work or on vacation, there is nothing better to spend time in the countryside. Sit comfortably by the fire, drink tea brewed with herbs, and gather around the garden table, which you assembled with your own hands.
The modern market offers a large assortment of affordable plastic furniture. But, unfortunately, plastic tables for dachas are not reliable. Therefore, many owners garden plot They dream of making it themselves from natural materials.
The process is not at all complicated, as it might seem at first glance, you just need to properly prepare for the work.
Country furniture set: what material to choose?
Outdoor tables and benches, being constantly in the open air, are exposed to natural precipitation, so they should be made only from durable materials: natural wood, stone, metal raw materials.
Natural wood
Please note that not every type of wood is suitable for the job. Breeds coniferous trees They have a loose, light structure, and they are also prone to ignition; constantly released drops of resin can ruin the tablecloth and dishes. Therefore, it is recommended to impregnate them with special moisture-resistant compounds.
For a wooden table at the dacha, it is better to take hardwood, and each board should be at least 50 millimeters. The design of the legs can be made in both straight and X-shaped versions.
Make sure that all surfaces of the component products are carefully processed to avoid getting a splinter in further use. And do not forget to apply a special impregnation to the finished product.
To extend the durability and strength of a wooden table for the dacha, experienced experts recommend coating it with at least three layers of varnish.
Stone
Stone furniture will undoubtedly amaze everyone with its grandeur and beauty. You can buy ready-made furniture, but its price is too high. You can reduce costs by self-execution bases for tables and benches. What can you use available materials for: slabs, bricks, building blocks, ordinary natural stone.
This base will fit perfectly into general style garden plot and other buildings. It is wise to use artificial stone for the table top and backs of the bench.
Metal
Tables and chairs for a summer cottage made of metal are not at all difficult to make yourself, but for the work process you will need a welding machine. Such furniture looks very attractive, and decoration with openwork inserts will add aesthetics. But metal furniture is also subject to gradual destruction, and therefore also needs special treatment against corrosion.
If funds allow, you can order Forged Products from a specialist in a professional workshop. Forging is perfect as a base, which can be supplemented with glass, stone and wood.
Therefore, there is an option to buy only the base for the furniture and then assemble it yourself.
Options for making country furniture
To create truly unique masterpieces of furniture, you can use unnecessary things at hand by rummaging around in a barn or garage, where you can undoubtedly find suitable consumables:
- metal barrels;
- used plastic parts;
- glass surfaces;
- other.
An old barrel lid can be cleaned of rust and treated, then coated with paint - you’ll get an interesting tabletop. Or you can use the iron part of a flower stand for the base (leg) of the table. It needs to be primed and coated. acrylic paints. Next, you need to glue the window seal to the support, and the glass - the tabletop to it, to improve fastening.
A non-wasteful owner, of course, stores pallets from sets of bricks, which can also be used as a countertop. At such a table there is no shame in inviting friends for tea or a dinner party.
Pallet table designs
Self-construction from old pallets will not require any special costs. You can do it in several simple ways, for which a simple set of tools will be useful:
- construction screwdriver;
- sandpaper;
- brush;
- colored stain;
- wheels;
- self-tapping screws and self-tapping screws.
First you need to properly sand the pallet, this is first done with coarse sandpaper. At the completion stage, finer sandpaper is already taken. The work will go much faster if you have access to grinding wheel for processing parts.
Next, you should turn over the finished processed pallet and screw the small swivel wheels from below using a screwdriver. In order to fix the product to the tree more efficiently and reliably, it is recommended to use washers for lining the wheels.
The finished base must be thoroughly treated with an antiseptic. The transparent composition will preserve the interesting, unique structure of the wood, and the stain will give the item a colorful look.
A small neat table for a summer house, as shown in the photo, can be placed on a terrace, veranda, or directly in the room.
The summer recreation area will look most comfortable and cozy if you make a large set of furniture from pallets. Such a furniture set can be made in a portable version, that is, with the possibility of moving it to different areas of the area.
The scope of fantasy: table option
A heavy cable reel is a relatively heavy structure that can be lightened and turned into an outdoor table for the dacha. You will have to put a little effort into decorating, otherwise the design itself is almost ready.
The easiest way is to wrap the barrel of the product with screw twine, and thoroughly sand the top and coat it with clear varnish. Or you can take only the center itself from the coil, adding a tabletop to it, or vice versa - the base is made of metal, and the surface is made of the upper disk.
Old tires will make an excellent designer garden set: a table and ottomans with a backrest. They can be painted in your favorite color, secured together with silicone sealant or similar adhesive composition. It is wise to make the tabletop from durable plastic or strong wood. You can cut out foam rubber on the pouf seat for comfort, covering it with fabric.
A powerful, brutal set will be made from ordinary thick logs, which must first be carefully processed and impregnated with high-quality stain. Then, for stability, you should level bottom part logs
A slightly smaller pouf is made in the same way. And here interesting table will come out of a long log lined on top for a tabletop.
Creation of a furniture set on personal plot Quite an exciting activity, and absolutely not expensive. Any old things prepared for disposal will be useful for work. Make every effort and the results will undoubtedly surprise both you and your guests!
Photos of tables for the garden
