DIY home table. DIY picnic table: step by step instructions
Best remembered for a poorly designed dining table. One that is too low or too high, under which there is not enough free legroom, where there is not enough space. To help you design a table that will only be remembered for its good looks, we provide some basic standards here.
HEIGHT OF THE TABLE. Distance from the floor to the top surface of the cover. Usually it is 68–76 cm.
SPACE ABOVE FEET... The distance from the floor to the bottom edge of the drawer side is vertical legroom. The minimum distance is 60 cm.
Knee space... The distance from the edge of the table to the leg is the space for the knees when the chair is moved up to the table. The minimum distance is from 36 to 40 cm, the optimum is 36–46 cm.
SPACE ABOVE THIGH... The distance from the seat to the lower edge of the drawer side is the vertical space for the hips when a person sits on a given chair moved to the table. Minimum 15 cm.
LOCKS SPACE... Side space on the table for everyone sitting. The minimum is 60 cm, but 75 cm is much better.
DEPTH FOR HANDS... Front desk space for everyone seated. Less than 30 cm will be too little, and more than 45 cm is too much.
CHAIR SPACE... The distance from the edge of the table top to the wall is sufficient to move the chair away from the table. Architects say that a minimum of 90 cm is needed, and 110 cm would be the best option.
Table with side belt
When you hear the word table, don't you think of a flat panel with four legs? Aren't you thinking about a table like the one drawn here? Yes, this design is the most primordial of the original. In the simplest version, a table - of a typical design - consists of only three types of parts: legs, drawers and a lid (table top). The legs and the side girdle form a solid yet open supporting structure. Structurally, many tables are trestle tables, although we rarely call them that. Much more often they are called according to their functional purpose or their location: dining, kitchen, bedside, writing desk. As you leaf through the book, you will come across the original designs of different tables, and many of them will return to this "basic" table. Such a table is usually found in a kitchen or dining room. Its massiveness gives the impression of being robust. Although the legs are quite massive, the chiseled profile visually reduces their massiveness. Plus, the generous dimensions of the legs make them ideal for strong joinery connections. Despite the simplicity of the design of the table with a side belt, many variations of it are possible. The table can be round, square, oval, rectangular. Its legs can be square, chiseled, tapered, or carved. Even tsars can influence the look of the table.
Design options
For example, a round table with the same chiseled legs as the base table looks completely different. This excellent look is given to it by a square side-belt with a round lid. Despite the elegant Queen Anne-style cabriole legs of the table, the massive drawers make it a work table. The cutout drawers at the third table create significant visual and practical differences, making the table appear lighter and taller and creating more hip room.
Country style table
This table is called by various names - country-style table, retro-style table, bar table - and by many different names. Furniture researchers usually describe it as a simple, low, oblong table on a massive underframe with chiseled legs and prongs. This characterizes it quite accurately: a table with a drawer belt and prongs. Legs, especially as strong as in the picture, significantly increase the durability and rigidity of the structure. With intensive daily use, the strips can extend the life of the table for years. The terms "country" and "bar" are definitely associated with the 17th and 18th centuries, when such tables were widely used in hotels, taverns and bars in the countryside and towns. The surviving examples of such tables do indeed have massive leaks - albeit badly worn out by many legs. The table shown here is equipped with a single mid-leg instead of two longitudinal ones to make it more comfortable to sit at the table. However, many early tables had perimeter pro-legs. The design is straightforward. The trestles and prodogs cut with spikes into the legs with reinforcement with wedges, pins, etc. The table cover is a wide panel “in the tip”.
Design options
The easiest way to change the design of a table is to change the legs. Our "original" table has round legs - turned - and the shape of the turning can be changed endlessly. Just remember that you need a flat, rectangular surface for the drawer-to-leg connections. At the country-style table, you can also change the prongs - both in appearance,
and their configuration, as shown in the figure below.
Side table with drawer and drawer
The name "table with a side-belt" refers rather not to style, but to construction. This type of table is the base for kitchen, library, writing desks, and the like. Even for a workbench. A drawer or two enhances the functionality of the table, as the tools that are used in its use can be stored in these drawers. In some cases, a small drawer is sufficient, in others the largest possible drawer is required; there are only a couple of ways to incorporate such a drawer. The simplest approach is to simply cut a box opening in the tsar. For a relatively small box and a fairly massive drawer side, it is quite suitable. If the opening turns out to be so large that it creates a danger of destruction of the board, then it is better to replace the tsar with box bars. The bars can be rotated 90 ° to match the width of the leg. Spike joints provide rigidity. The design with two - supra-box and sub-box - bars is preferable, since the upper bar will prevent the legs from moving inward.
Design options
Installation of a drawer in a round table is quite possible. But if the tsarovy belt has a square or rectangular shape, then you must be prepared that access to the inside of the box will be limited. If the tsarg belt is rounded, then the front panel of the drawer should be made in such a way (for example, a layered-bent or block-glued structure) so that its shape matches the shape of the tsarg.
An alternative to a table with a leg in each corner is a table with one central support. Its table top is attached to a central post, set on low, diverging legs. Here, the drawers are not structurally required, but some single-support tables have them. At first glance, the table without legs and drawers gives unlimited legroom. However, while it does have a lot of knee and hip room, its "creeping" legs usually get in the way of the seated feet. This is the price of stability: the projection of the tabletop should not exceed the support area by more than 15 cm. A little more - and you risk toppling the table, leaning on the edge. Critical to this design is the strength of the B-pillar and its connection to the base or legs. The table shown here has an oval table top and - in accordance with the major and minor axes of the oval - two pairs of legs of different lengths. The legs are connected to tapering racks, and racks with tabletop brackets are connected with double spikes in the lugs. These intermediate assemblies, in turn, are glued to a square core rail to form an upwardly flared center support.
The pedestal table appeared in the 18th century as a small coffee table with a three-legged base. To make a dining table, carpenters combined two single-support tables or put an oblong tabletop on two three-legged supports. Modern models range from the simplest utilitarian to the multi-rack ones. The structural advantage of multi-post supports is their increased tilt resistance. Although the footprint may be noticeably less than the projection of the table top, a large table with this type of foot can be reasonably stable due to the weight of the foot.
Put a wide board on the trestle and you have a table. This is the ancestor of the trestle table, which is perhaps the very first type of table. Since ancient times, its shape has improved significantly, but it remains an easy-to-manufacture collapsible table. Its elementary form is a panel or plywood sheet on free-standing trestles. And when the trestles cease to be free-standing, then such an assembly becomes a table, because they must be connected to each other, to the tabletop, or both. In the table shown here, each half-wine goat consists of a fairly wide rack, cut into a leg at the bottom and a table top bracket at the top. The wider the trestle, the better the table will resist swinging from side to side. A long massive prod is cut into the racks. The table top is fixed to the trestle with screws, and the structure becomes one whole. Although there is plenty of legroom under the tabletop, you shouldn't forget about the slip so that you don't bump your shins while sitting at the table. Also, the ends of the tabletop should protrude 35–45 cm beyond the trestle to provide sufficient space for those sitting there. Many gantry tables are collapsible. Common ways of attaching collapsible table parts are shown on the next page.
Design options
Thinking about the shape of the racks and legs of the goat is the easiest way to change the look of this table. Several examples are shown here. The original goats were similar to saw goats, and the X-shape was quite popular in medieval Europe. The Penilvan Germans and other Germanic settlers brought this uniform to America, and it can still often be found at picnic tables. Today, the most common is the H-shape. Shakers (sectarian-shakers), who made many tables on trestles, usually used graceful legs "with a high rise"
The familiar dining table can be expanded with an additional lid board. Then an ordinary table for a family can be enlarged to receive guests. At first glance, it may not be noticeable that this is a standard table with a side belt, cut into two parts and re-connected using special runners. Runners can be bought ready-made or made together with the table. Each cloth of the table top should be at least 60 cm - the optimal place for one person sitting.
Design options
The design of the sliding table can be varied, as usual, by changing the legs and drawers. The shape of the drawers and countertops has practically no effect on the overall design. If we are talking about a table with drawers, then with a sliding version they work as usual. As the extension limits increase, an additional leg may be required to support the middle section. And do not forget about the importance of small details - for example, attaching the drawers to the table top.
Sliding table on one leg
A table on one leg is the basic form of a table, which has some advantages over a table with a side belt. If you need a folding table, do not forget to consider this shape as well. With such a table it is quite possible to make a sliding, folding, and hinged lid, which will expand it. The most common option is a sliding cover with an insert section. As shown on the next page, the cover is split in two and the halves are connected by special sliding rails. Thus, these two cover sheets can be pushed apart and an additional board can be inserted between them. What to do with the support is a key question for the master. For the table to be stable, the size of the lid and the area of the support must be close. In the example shown, the support is vertically divided into two parts, each of which is fastened to a corresponding cover sheet. When the cover is pushed apart, the support is also separated.
Design options
The basic form has a support that divides when the table is extended. This is not the only option. If a relatively small, say, 30–40 cm, expansion is acceptable, then a sliding table can be made on a non-split support. Another option is to make a table on two legs. The table with support for each sliding half can be extended by 90–120 cm.
When choosing one of the types of folding tables, one of the most interesting designs is the system with pull-out sections. It is easy to manufacture and use. There is nothing unusual about the basic structure of a table. The only difference from the usual underframe made of tsars and legs is the presence of slots in the end tsars. The difference lies on top of the drawers and legs. Instead of attaching the countertop to the drawer belt, its side sections, attached to long tapering runners, fit onto the drawer leg assembly. The runners correspond to the slots in the side bars. The existing central board, dividing the side sections, is fixed with screws on the side bars. The table top fits on top of the center board and side sections, but is not secured firmly. When unfolding the table, the side section simply slides out from under the cover. The runners have stops that do not allow the section to be extended too far. When pulled out, the lid will tilt slightly at first, but when fully unfolded it will be flush with the side section. Since the pull-out sections are part of the structure, you do not have to go looking for them in closets and closets when you need to lay out the table before guests arrive. You just slide out a section or two - even if the table is already set.
Design options
The system with pull-out sections can be combined with all types of table supports, provided the drawers are available. Thus, a trestle table or a two-support table (as in the figure on the right), equipped with drawers, can have pull-out sections to increase the number of seats. However, the system is not well suited for countertops with non-linear shapes. When folded, the side section is retracted under the cover and its edges remain (or should remain) visible. If the shape is different from the shape of the lid, then the table will probably look rather strange when folded. For example, a semicircular side section underneath a square or rectangular lid will create a gap between the lid and drawers.
Two-base table with pull-out
sections
A table with a sliding folding lid (table top) is relatively rare. Despite its low prevalence, this is an excellent system. The table has one additional section - a duplicate of the "main" cover, this section is connected to the cover by means of hinges and when folded lies on the main section (cover). To unfold the table, the "double" tabletop is moved to its extreme position (up to half of the underframe), and then the additional section is folded back on the underframe. The upper edges of the drawers should be covered with felt or felt to facilitate the sliding of the lid. It is not difficult to make a sliding mechanism. Each runner has a ridge that fits into a groove in its guide. The disadvantage is that during a period of high humidity, the ridges can stick in the grooves. The basic version is usually configured as a side table. In the unfolded state, the edges of the tabletop are quite far from the underframe, which creates sufficient space under the table for seated persons. The Y-shape of the legs will provide ample legroom for those seated at the ends of the table.
Design options
When folded, this table looks like a somewhat odd dining table. To limit the overhang of the countertop over the baseboard (to ensure stability), the size of the base unit should be close to the size of the folded countertop. Consequently, a folding table top should be used on a type of table that would not look odd if the top overhang is too small. Good options for this use include a side table (as a base), a side table (shown here), and other special purpose tables and tables. When folded, these tables can be placed close to the wall. Folding lids are commonly used in traditional card tables, but without a sliding mechanism. However, the sliding mechanism will work here as well.
A table with a folding board (or boards) is practically a "generic" name for all tables in which the sections of the table top are connected by hinges. It is a common species and has been found throughout American history. In any furniture style, from William and Mary to the modern, you will find a drop-board table, and this table has drop-boards as part of the structure. When not in use, they can be lowered to an upright position, saving space in the room. There are many ways to keep the folding sections in the raised position. In the example shown here, slide-out holders are used - you lift the board and slide the support arms out from under it (much like a drawer). Some other support systems see table with swivel frame legs, with swivel legs for a book table and several card tables. The main thing to think about for this type of table is the width of the flap boards, which can be optimally supported by the extendable or swivel / articulated arms. Make the drop-boards relatively narrow — say no wider than 38 cm. For wider sections — see options with swivel frame supports or swivel legs. A long flip board like the example shown here would require more than one bracket, and this specimen got an interesting twentieth century name that applies to a relatively long utility table with flip-top lids. This name, which can be translated as "Passion", creates in consciousness a picture of a large table spread out ", filled with food for hungry seasonal agricultural workers during the harvest season. Regardless of what we call it now, the people who sat at such a table in 1840 or 1880 probably called it a drop-board table or a folding table.
Design options
While the base dining table is fairly long and relatively narrow, with a rectangular table top with sharp corners, the drop-board table can be of almost any size, proportion, and shape. The table top (table top) can have folding boards of a rounded or slightly rounded shape. A short or square base can be fitted with a round, square or oval table top. You can round the corners of the flap sections or make their outer edges curved.
A book-table is the Russian name for a table with swivel frame supports, which are hingedly attached to the tsar-leg-prong assembly. The support post is connected to the pivot post by the upper and lower crossbar. The entire support can be rotated so that the raised folding section (board) can be placed on it. The pivot bearing was the predecessor to the pivot foot. It has many structural elements that reflect the state of the art of carpentry in the 16th century when it first appeared. But like any well-made frame, it is rigid and provides an excellent support for the folding board. Although the first such tables usually had two frame supports (one for each folding board), tables with one folding board and one swivel support were often found, and it happened, and vice versa, there were several leviathons with 12 swivel supports. When folded, the tables were usually very narrow and saved a lot of space. A large table with two pivot legs on each dropboard could be made so that the legs pivot towards each other as well as away from each other. If they turn towards each other, then when the folding boards are lowered, the support posts of the frames will be located next to the main legs, visually making them more massive. When pivoted away from each other, the support legs will sit side by side, giving the impression of a table with six legs. The first tables were usually made in the Baroque style, with a complex chiseled profile of the legs. However, the example shown is completely modern in style.
Design options
A significant advantage of a book table is the ability to support very large additional sections. A secure support under the drop board makes the table very stable, even with one section raised. Thus, it is difficult to make a very narrow table with wide drop-boards. When folded, the table takes up very little space. Unfolded - has a huge table top
This table can justifiably be called a table with folding boards, but the swivel leg makes it stand out from others like it. The swivel leg is a descendant of the frame swivel support (see page 158). If the swivel support is attached to the table frame, which consists of a drawer side, legs and a leg, then the swivel leg is attached only to the drawer side. The result is a lightweight appearance. Rather size, rather than a swivel leg assembly, is characteristic of this table. The diameter of the tabletop is only 107 cm and will be quite comfortable for four people. The swivel leg is used in card tables with small folding tabletops. During the Queen Anne period, a smaller version of the table shown here was called the "breakfast table" and was used for both actual breakfast and games and teas. Larger tables are likely to need additional pivot feet for improved support for the folding boards. A pivot joint - actually a wooden hinge - makes the pivot foot realizable. A sleeker option than shown here makes the connection look like a metal hinge.
Design options
The design of a swivel table leg with folding boards appeared in the first half of the 18th century. Although we chose the Queen Anne style table as the “base” table, the swivel leg has been used in a variety of table styles. The foot profile will usually be a style indicator. Chippendale-style swivel tables often have convertibles, but always with a claw-ball finish. Square shaped legs are also used in Chippendale tables. During the federal
Heppleight tables were made with tapering legs, as shown here, and Sheraton tables were made with chiseled, often embossed, legs.
Unfolded folding boards turn
rectangular table to square
The advantage of a frame pivot table over a pivot leg table is the stability provided by the additional legs. When the folding boards are raised, additional legs support them. An extendable leg table also has this advantage over a pivot table, but has one advantage over a frame pivot table: Like a pivot table, this table has an additional leg for each flap. But only a narrow crossbar connects the leg to the table. These crossbars are placed in a cage of two guides installed between the longitudinal side arms, and extend through the openings in the side frames. The leg is attached to the rungs. Raise the flip-up board, extend the leg, and lower the board onto it. You have a leg under the drop-board and still have four legs under the stationary table top. This structure can hold very wide drop boards.
Design options
Here are two very different tables with extendable legs, each with excellent stability thanks to the extra leg (or legs) when unfolded. When the card table is folded up against the wall, the extra leg is unobtrusive. By expanding the game table and pulling out the additional leg, you get a support at each corner of the tabletop. Ideally. The extendable legs are also a great addition to a long drop-board table. If you make two retractable legs for each board, then the table will not lose stability when someone leans too much on it.
The armchair table owes its birth to medieval practicality. In the Middle Ages, dwellings were small and draughty. Any furniture was expensive, everything was done with hand tools. And if a piece of furniture could serve more than one function, well, so much the better. The table chair is clearly versatile. With the lid down, this is a table. With the lid up - the seat. And as with most universal things, its functionality is far from perfect. With the development of the furniture industry, the table-chair became more perfect in design and elegant in appearance. The item shown here has legs and armrests that are attached to the sides of the seat with dowel-to-socket connections. The pronounced shoe-shaped end of the leg makes the chair more stable and the armrests more comfortable. The chair even has a drawer under the seat - more sophisticated storage than a box with a lid. The table top is secured with a dovetail inset.
A table is a piece of furniture that you cannot do without in the city or in the country. The table can be placed on the veranda, in the gazebo, or just in a shady place. Behind him you can dine, have a feast or play board games in the fresh air. Inexpensively you can buy only a small plastic table, it is cheaper to make a large wooden table for a summer residence with your own hands. The article will present three options for tables and drawings for their manufacture.
Table dimensions and construction features
The optimal size of the table top for a summer cottage is 80x120 cm. A smaller table will be significantly inferior in functionality, a large table will be too bulky and will be difficult to clean for the winter. The size of the table 80x120 cm will allow you to hold ceremonial feasts with the number of participants from 8 to 10 people.
It is easiest to make a table for a summer residence from boards. Moreover, it is the most accessible and inexpensive material. The advantage of making a table made of wood is that the boards can be cut to the desired size at any building base, and brought to the dacha without any problems, thereby saving on transportation. It should be noted that with a table size of 75x80x120 cm, the longest board will be a 120 cm long tabletop board. A board of this length will fit into almost any car.
There are many varieties of table designs, but by and large the difference is only in the form of legs on which the tabletop rests. Therefore, the legs at the table are the most complex element of the entire structure.
Table top
The table top at the table in the country is made of boards. The thickness of the boards can be from 30 to 50 mm. However, the best option is a 40 mm board.
An important point is the cutting of the boards. With a tabletop length of 120 cm, you need 5.3 boards 150 mm wide, 6.6 boards 120 mm wide and 8 boards 100 mm wide. Considering that boards are sold with a length of just over 6 m, it is advisable to choose a board with a width of 100 mm for the tabletop.
Choosing a board with a width of 100 mm does not have to adjust or change the dimensions of the table top, which will greatly simplify the work on the table arrangement. In addition, there will be 2 more boards with a length of 120 mm, which can be used for other parts.
If you can't get the board you need, you can make the tabletop not solid, but at intervals. Such a tabletop will look no less interesting. In this case, water that can accumulate on a table with a solid tabletop will drain through the gaps between the boards.
Straight Legged Table
A table with straight legs is the simplest design of a table for a summer residence. This is a stable, comfortable table that will serve well both indoors and outdoors.
Fig. 1.
Table legs consist of 4 elements, 2 vertical posts and 2 horizontal ones. The upper horizontal post is attached to the table top, the lower one is the support.
Fig. 2.
The design of the legs can be different. For example, instead of resting on the bottom board, you can make the support on the vertical posts, and the bottom board can be made for additional strength.
Pay attention in this design, the connection of the boards is performed without additional grooves. This greatly simplifies the assembly of the table. In order for all elements to be well fixed, it is necessary to glue all joints with wood glue. In this case, the boards can be connected with self-tapping screws.
Fig. 3.
- Collect the legs. To do this, you need to saw the boards according to the drawing. Treat the joints with glue and tighten with self-tapping screws or a confirmation.
- On a flat surface, lay out the boards for the table top, mark the position of the legs and fasten the boards of the table top through the upper bar of the legs.
- Install a horizontal brace between the legs.
- Wait 2 - 3 hours for the glue to dry and remove any burrs and sharp edges from the table.
- Then the table can be varnished. Or just treat it with an antiseptic.
Table with X-shaped legs
A table with X-shaped legs is essentially not much different from a table with straight legs, it just has a different shape of the legs. However, it is impossible to make without creating additional grooves on the legs. This complicates the work somewhat.
Fig. 4.
Table legs consist of 3 elements. Two criss-cross legs and a vertical top bar. The top bar, as in the previous case, is necessary for fixing the table top.
Fig. 5.
To connect the legs in the inclined supports, you need to make a slot in the floor of the board.
Fig. 6.
The table assembly order is as follows:
- The boards are cut to the required length.
- A groove is made in the legs to the floor of the board. The groove can be made with a jigsaw or a router.
- Collect the legs. The connections are glued. The parts are fastened with self-tapping screws.
- The boards of the table top are laid out and the assembled legs are attached to them.
- Install the bottom screed board.
- They process the table from burrs and varnish.
Table with benches
A table with benches is often installed on verandas or outdoors. Unlike the structures described above, it does not require additional benches or chairs, benches are included in the design of the table.
Fig. 7.
The disadvantage of this version of the table at the dacha is that the structure is quite cumbersome, and it becomes very problematic to remove it for the winter.
Fig. 8.
A feature of the table design is that the benches are fixed directly on the table legs. The crossbeams on which the benches are attached are at the same time the tie for the legs, and the benches play the role of a longitudinal tie.
Fig. 9.
The order for assembling a table with benches is as follows:
- Cut the boards to the desired length.
- Assemble the legs and support for the bench flooring. The joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.
- Mark the boards for the table top and mount them to the legs.
- Secure the benches.
- Treat with impregnation or antiseptic.
Examples of tables for a summer residence
Fig. 10.
Fig. 11.
Fig. 12.
Fig. 13.
Fig. 14.
Fig. 15.
Fig. 16.
Fig. 17.
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining room, utility table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, on the territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But many people do not like purchased products for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Considering that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, it is not a problem for a good owner with your own hands. And it will come out much cheaper. Plus - the satisfaction of such work.
Premises
Ideally, this is an extension, a shed, an empty garage, although a small covered area will do. Working with wood in the open air means completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are "square meters" suitable for the manufacture of furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, you can work in an enclosed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including on the sample with which some action is performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention impregnation and finishing with a paint and varnish composition) can be obtained.
One cannot but take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to "refine" a simple wood structure, what shape it should be given, and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the grace of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more "delicate" work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, you will need special devices.
El / jigsaw. It will not work to make an inclined vertical cut with an ordinary saw, keeping the angle exactly. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is versatile in use, moreover, it gives a high accuracy of cutting a tree or cutouts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if making furniture is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnating and other compositions
Rotting protection:
- Dealing with engine oil is an effective and free tool. But not for dining tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deeply into the structure of the tree and protects it from mold and mildew. The downside is the high cost. But if the table is intended for eating, it is a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, in contrast to working off.
- Water-polymer emulsion. It is characterized by long duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They have practically supplanted their predecessors of the "NC" category, since they are harmless and in many respects better than the compositions that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More information on joinery -.
For decorating a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the wood, shade it.
- Stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (tinting).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and of any shade. It is enough only to correctly determine the proportion of the components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to the rejected board. This will help you find an acceptable tone. It is more than advisable, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All advice on assembling a wooden table with nails (argumentation - simple, fast and cheap) is better to ignore. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks dry wood (and this is what is taken; more on that below).
- It is rather difficult to correctly direct its leg (strictly vertically). In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your mistake.
- The tree, even the most protected from rot, succumbs to it over time. The maintainability of a table knocked down by nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if glue alone is not enough, only self-tapping screws should be used.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. Strengthening the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg is impractical. The reason is the same - the likelihood of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, staples, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone is guided by the cost of lumber, another is important the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend for a novice furniture maker? Do not use for a table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in a utility room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of construction or repairs and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if you don't have enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table in life (chair, stool) is just a kind of training in making, gaining experience.
Table top. Here, strength and minimum moisture absorption are in the first place. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The optimal choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based panel products (, OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid hits the table surface. For example, laminated chipboard.
Low-grade sawn timber is not used in the furniture industry. This is not economically feasible, as pre-processing the wood increases the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left over after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not only because it is free or relatively cheap. With the right approach, many disadvantages of such wood can be turned into advantages. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the tabletop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, knots falling out and a wormhole.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humps. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged alternately (the top is down, the next one is up); radial cutting - the same (arcs in one direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During wood shrinkage, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly become warped, and you will have to repair it. And here you need to decide - to purchase high drying wood or to rid it of moisture on your own. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second is cheaper, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- First, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime at the place of storage of the blanks. Changes in its value will lead to uneven moisture evaporation, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, there must be good ventilation.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; even in this case it takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make furniture out of wood for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs made of cheap lumber, without claims to its sophistication and originality of the design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to design and self-assembly is a creative process. In this case, stereotypes do not exist, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wood tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, camping, suspended, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as magazine tables for installation in living rooms for their intended purpose, are made stationary, that is, unchanged in size. These assemblies are more "solid", since all mating parts are rigidly fixed; no swivel joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, it means that he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. It is not necessary to teach such a home craftsman the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be worth noting. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the fastening of the parts is done by landing on the adhesive (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders", which are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the joints. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available in any furniture showroom in several sizes. Grinding them, even having a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for dismountable connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level shelving, etc.).
It is not worth using nails to fix the table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - the "shuttle" will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On kings
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be disassembled either periodically, or without this it cannot be transferred through the doorway. Although not all drawers involve the dismantling of the structure. The most commonly used options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden furniture or furniture installed in outbuildings; for household tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
To make the self-tapping screw easily screwed in and "go" in the desired direction, a hole is made at the point of its installation with a drill slightly smaller in diameter than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to avoid skewing. In this case, you can do without a screwdriver to "land" the self-tapping screw.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a plane is used first, an abrasive with a coarse grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done many times. Much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi can "stand up". Nothing wrong with that. Wait until the workpiece dries and repeat abrading it. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is precisely by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of exterior decoration
- Small defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty compound.
- After sanding is complete, remove all wood dust. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate attachment will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely start applying stain or varnish - there will be no "pellets" on the tree.
- You can add originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, the unusual shape of the table top or legs, the combination of the texture of different breeds, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. The work on self-production of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage of mastering the skill of a "constructor-assembler". Having worked out technologies, methods on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough to simply switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table made from even the simplest drawing (besides the pleasure of work and the saved money) are obvious - not wasted time.
Natural wood is attractive, but not the cheapest material. Making a table out of wood with your own hands is more profitable than choosing a ready-made model (and in some cases it is easier than finding a table that would fit the rest of the environment). Due to the absence of manufacturing costs, you can afford not to save on the quality of raw materials.
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What table can you make yourself?
Tables vary in design. Almost any model can be assembled on your own with some woodworking skills, the right tools and instructions.
The complexity of manufacturing is determined by the purpose, shape and size of the table. From the "technological" side, any table consists of two structural parts: the upper part (the actual table top) and the legs.
Types of tables
Before making a table with your own hands, you should decide on a suitable model and its features. The type of table will determine the choice of materials (solid wood or chipboard), finishes, as well as the set of tools that will be required for work.
A table on a single support is usually made with a rounded table top.
Note!
Models with two legs, connected by a jumper for greater stability, are considered the most convenient.
The easiest way is to make a "classic" table on four legs - reliable and "understandable". In this case, the legs are given special attention. In case of inconsistencies and errors during work, the top of the table can be hidden under the tablecloth, but the legs of the table will instantly "give out" the hack.
Types of countertops
The shape of the countertop is chosen depending on the style of the room where the piece of furniture is planned to be placed. A round wooden table is suitable for a spacious kitchen in a rustic or Scandinavian style (the space should be large enough so that the furniture does not interfere with free movement). An oval table is a convenient option for a dining room. Small countertops of the same shape look great on or on coffee tables.
Rectangular and wooden countertops are the easiest to make, and besides, they are a universal shape, suitable for any interior and table of any functionality. In the same format, tables of complex designs are usually performed, folding, portable or multifunctional. For example, if there is not enough space in the room, but it is planned to place a large number of guests at the table from time to time, a compact, assembled book table, which, if necessary, can be quickly turned into a dining table (by raising both "wings") or a work table (by expanding one side of the countertop).
Tools for the job
The complete list of tools depends on the table format, as well as on the material chosen for the work. In most cases, you will need:
- or saw;
- or a screwdriver (and various drills for them);
- connecting elements (nails, screws and the like);
- wood grinding machine and;
- measuring and marking tools (pencil, ruler or tape measure);
- protective equipment during work (gloves and goggles).
According to rough estimates, it is unacceptable to carry out work "by eye" - the result will turn out to be far from the desired one. You will also need drawings with the dimensions of each table element.
Tabletop material: Chipboard
The thickness of the sheet of such material is usually 16 or 18 mm. For a dining table on massive legs, chipboard may be thin - the design will look disproportionate. Better to splice two sheets of flooring together to add solidity to the countertop. Around the perimeter of the countertop is processed with an edge. The material is sold in hardware stores, it is made most often of plastic, and on one side it is covered with an adhesive base.
The edge on the table top is fixed with an iron. The edge is ironed with strong pressure and slowly enough that the glue has time to melt. You will have to control the degree of melting by looking under the edge of the countertop - the composition will protrude from under the edge and slightly change color. A chipboard table with such an edge, if properly installed, will serve for a long time.
Wood table
Countertop material: wood
Solid wood is the most expensive of the materials, but also the most durable. It is better to choose hardwood for the table. The best option in terms of price-quality ratio would be beech or a tree similar to it. It is worth trimming the edge of the tabletop with a curly rail or baguette. Wood is usually chosen for solid tables, the thickness of the table top (and solid wood) should be about 4.5-5 cm.
It is worth considering the peculiarity of natural wood: over time, it dries up, responding to changes in humidity and temperature. When assembling the table, it is worth attaching a plywood “gasket” made of a 10mm sheet under the main tabletop (the dimensions of the sheet should be 10 cm smaller than the dimensions of the table). It is on plywood with this design that the legs of the furniture will be attached. The table is guaranteed not to disintegrate "from old age" even if the wood of the tabletop cracks and requires restoration.
Tabletop material: boards
Boards are an intermediate material for countertops both in terms of price and aesthetics. A table made of boards is suitable for a country house or country-style interior, and it is easier to assemble it than a solid wood model.
For work, spruce or pine boards are most often chosen. Less commonly, oak, walnut or birch boards are used. Their thickness should be the same, the length can be adjusted during the manufacture of the table.
Assembling the basic table model
First, the frame is prepared, which will hold the rest of the elements. Four boards of equal length are placed at the same distance. The end parts are laid out perpendicular to them. The base is fixed with screws (self-tapping screws, nails or analogs). To make the frame stiffer and stronger, the other two sides are also reinforced with boards.
The table top is made of boards of equal length and width, which are fixed on the base.
Note!
Legs (in the basic version - ordinary wood blocks) are fixed on the same nails or screws.
The final finishing of the table is carried out after assembly. Boards need to be sanded with a special machine or several types of sandpaper, if desired, the table is covered with stain, varnish or paint.
DIY table
Sophisticated designs: folding picnic table
The folding table differs from the basic model primarily in the design of the legs. This part is technically the most difficult, but it can also be done “at home”.
For the legs, you will need to prepare wooden blocks (you need to leave a small "allowance" along the length). Any kind of material is suitable for the countertop. In the event that you plan to move the table, you should choose lightweight and durable - for example, varnished plywood or wood.
Places of cuts are processed with an edge, legs and lintels are rounded or cut at right angles and sanded (with a machine or sandpaper).
Folding table
How to assemble a folding table?
The legs are fastened with a bolt (no longer than 3.5 cm). The assembly of the table is carried out according to the following scheme:
- fasten the legs and supporting elements;
- on the tabletop, the places for fastening the support are marked (self-tapping screws are used for fastening);
- all structural elements are numbered to simplify the final assembly;
- final grinding of all surfaces is performed;
- parts are covered with a protective compound;
- the table is going "clean".
In the end, making a folding table with your own hands turns out to be no more difficult than assembling a basic model, although this will require accuracy in calculations and exact adherence to drawings.
How to make a wooden table with your own hands video:
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One of the essential attributes of human habitation is a table. It should be in the apartment, in the cottage, and in the summer house in the country.
Making a wooden table with your own hands is not such a difficult task as it seems at first glance. A simple structure that is suitable for a summer residence can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if he first picked up a carpentry tool.
More complex models that will decorate the kitchen or living room will require creativity and certain skills, but this work is doable if you follow certain rules.
Possible options
Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:
- with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
- corner - help to save internal space;
- transformers - multifunctional structures;
- folding and sliding - allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
- "Books" are a common modification of a folding table.
It is noteworthy, but all of the listed table options can be made in artisanal conditions, literally from scrap materials.
Regardless of design and shape, a homemade wooden table must meet two requirements. Firstly, to match the interior of the room, if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully decorated carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.
Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.
Preparatory stage
Even a simple rectangular table with four legs cannot be made without some preparation. Let's figure out what a home craftsman will need in the production process.
Blueprints
This is a prerequisite that will allow you to visually represent the future table, determine the size and amount of material. Ready-made drawings can be searched on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Internet users, detailing each stage of production.
If we are talking about a unique table design, which is planned to be created according to your own project, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:
- external dimensions (length, width, height);
- fastening the legs to the table top. Round models usually have one support column located in the center, rectangular structures require 1 support for each corner;
- mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).
It is necessary to carefully think about how all the details of the table will be assembled together, what additional processing of the wood will be required before or after assembly.
Material
It is no secret that wood of different species has different properties and not the whole array is suitable for handicraft processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be conditionally divided into 3 groups.
Soft. This includes almost all conifers (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many deciduous (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). Such material is easy to process, but the manufactured table will require additional protective coating, especially if it is supposed to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors, prone to deformation and cracking. The exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for the manufacture of tables.
Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Such a bar, even without impregnation, is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but during processing you cannot do without a power tool.
Extra strong. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is possible only in the shops of industrial enterprises.
Tool
The simplest rough table made of boards can be assembled with your own hands with just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for a more accurate execution, additional tools are required:
- electric jigsaw;
- grinder;
- set of screwdrivers;
- drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
- roulette;
- simple pencil;
- square.
In addition, it is recommended to pre-treat the wood with special antiseptics, which will make the finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sidewalls, then you will need special cutters. A lathe or milling machine for wood will be of great help to the master, but not everyone has such tools.
Homemade tables for a summer residence
The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. At first glance, unnecessary pallets are a ready-made raw material that practically does not require additional processing, but offers several options for use. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelf or for small friendly gatherings.
Such a design is made elementary. One pallet is fixed to the wall with nails or self-tapping screws. The installation height is selected individually. The working part is attached to the fixed base - the tabletop. The elements are articulated with two chains, which will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 hinges are placed at the junction of the pallets; in addition, you can install a locking mechanism, for example, a hook, which will hold such a table in a closed position.
A more complex option is a pallet coffee table that will look organic on a veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, polished, painted. After that, the boards are hammered into a rectangular tabletop, fixed along the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. Such a structure is made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family vacations.
We use the remains of building materials
Almost on any personal plot there are boards left after the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining or utility table.
Here you need to be guided by the following instruction:
- assembling the frame. To do this, you need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To preserve the geometry, we use a square. At the joints, you can put iron corners, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
- fasten the legs... For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length can be chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support stands are installed on the inside of the frame, fastened with nails or self-tapping screws;
- stiffening rib . An additional wooden crossbar is nailed approximately in the middle of the legs. A cross member is installed on both sides, making the structure more robust and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other small items necessary for the household;
- table top. This is where the remaining boards go, which are best placed across the frame. The material is sawn with a hacksaw along the width of the table, attached to the frame with finishing nails.
At the final stage, all surfaces are sanded, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in which case the tree will last much longer. And if you walk on the boards with a brush for brushing and apply stain on top, you get an antique table.
Table with benches
This option is great for a garden, a structure made of wood is installed permanently, depending on the size chosen, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. A garden table and benches are made from boards separately, then the elements are fastened together with a threaded connection: steel pins.
The manufacturing process begins with the shops. For this, the boards are sawn to size, according to the drawn up drawings. To assemble a bench, you will need:
- 3 long boards that will fit on the seat;
- 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45 ° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
- 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
- 1 board is 25-30 cm shorter than the length of the seat - stiffening rib.
note that all the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.
The shops are assembled according to the following scheme. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short cross members. Legs are installed, which are clamped by the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, are pulled together with pins.
Seat boards are nailed on top of the frame. It is not necessary to put them close to each other, it is better to leave small gaps.
The ready-made seats are interconnected by four boards 160-180 cm long. Fastening is carried out at the bottom of the legs in such a way that the support posts are clamped by boards on both sides.
After preparing the base, the table is assembled. The table top and sections for the installation of support posts are made according to the principle similar to the benches. The legs themselves are made cruciform, fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches. The result is a comfortable DIY kitchen table that can be used for family gatherings.
Round tables
Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table with your own hands from wood is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if there is a felling of old trees in the courtyard of a multi-storey building or next to a personal plot, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. For this, a cut of a tree made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable. Such a round, 5-7 centimeters thick, is varnished and can become a key table installed in the hallway.
If you are unlucky with the fallen trees, you can create a round tabletop on your own. This will require 4 boards of the following sizes:
- length - 2000 mm;
- width - 250 mm;
- thickness - 40 mm.
The boards are tightly connected to each other (without fastening), a circle of the required diameter is drawn on the surface. After that, the boards are cut with a jigsaw exactly along the marked line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from bars. The shape is chosen depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are assumed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The table top is installed using corners, after assembly, the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, then it can be installed in an apartment in the kitchen or in the living room.
An oval table is assembled by a similar principle. The only difference is that on the boards connected to each other, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-oval at the ends. The boards are trimmed with a jigsaw along the line. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be 10-20 cm from the edge of the countertop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, for the manufacture of carved supports, certain knowledge is required, so it is better to order such elements from the furniture industry.
Transforming tables
A do-it-yourself folding table made of wood and capable of changing its original shape is a real masterpiece. Folding structures look equally advantageous in the country and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The simplest option is to make a transformer for your personal plot, and you can easily cope with this task on your own.
To surprise guests and get a comfortable picnic table made of wood, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs. The seat is made of 3 boards connected by crossbars. There is one nuance here: the edge of the cross member, which is located on the side of the backrest, should protrude 10-15 cm beyond the edges of the seat.
Table legs are made in different lengths. A short support leg is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the back. Note that the recommended backrest height should vary between 60-90 cm. The backrest design feature is that it is mounted on a single bolt located in the upper part and acts as a swivel mechanism. Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack where the backrest retainer will be inserted.
After completing all the operations, they get 2 benches, on which you can sit quite comfortably, discussing the latest news or watching the sunset. If you raise the backs of these benches and move them closer to each other, you get a table with two rows of seats. Taking into account the width of each backrest, the result is a table top measuring 120-180 cm.
Computer desk
If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems to be a rather complex structure. It has a pull-out keyboard shelf, drawers for storing discs and other items that require experience to make. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.
Here you can try to implement this option:
- steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of a professional pipe with 4 support legs. On the one hand, a frame is immediately made for the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements from the other end;
- the table top is made of boards or fiberboard sheets cut to size;
- the shelves are made of a material similar to the countertop.
All elements are connected to each other by a threaded connection or a corner. Of course, such a design is inferior to factory counterparts in external design, but it costs several times cheaper and does its job quite well.
Processing and exterior finishing
In order for a homemade wooden table to have a presentable appearance and retain its properties as long as possible, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion before starting assembly. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After the installation is completed, the surfaces are carefully sanded, minor imperfections are masked with a putty. Then varnish is applied: it is better to choose acrylic-based compositions that are safe to work with.
To prolong the service life, it is recommended to protect wooden tables from strong moisture and direct sunlight. In the garden at the dacha, it is better to install them in a shaded place, and cover them with foil in the rain.
