How to make a junction of tiles and tiles - a variety of ways. Getting rid of ceiling seams How to close the joints

Does not require special skills. Laminate board is an inexpensive and reliable coating that fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing a laminate is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel, it swells and deforms. A prerequisite for the installation of laminate boards is the sealing of the joints. It is important how to close the joints of the laminate.

Sealant for processing

Sealant is a special gel with which seams, gaps and joints are processed. At the same time, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant, which includes silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

reliability;
long service life;
the possibility of using a hermetic agent at any temperature conditions.

In addition to silicone, the composition of the sealed gel includes the following components:

additives: quartz flour, chalk;
antifungal substances;
dyes;
and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question is how to close the joints floor covering from a laminate board, is solved, now it is necessary to prepare tools and materials for their processing.

Tools and materials

Before applying the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential areas, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

Silicone based sealant.
Rubber hammer.
Ruler, pencil.
Electric jigsaw.
Retainer.
Expanding wedges.

Before laying laminate flooring, it is necessary to carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

The substrate for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3–5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the lock joints of the panels will quickly loosen and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for the dismantling and installation of the laminate.
If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. The even surface of the base will allow you to properly lay out the substrate under the laminate in order to protect the floor from moisture.
The first row of panels must be laid out with a deformation gap of 8 mm. Such a gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that the laminate, when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a hermetic agent. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After the laying of the laminate is completed, all interlocks will be sealed.
The gaps left in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as a plinth or a threshold. How to lubricate the joints between the laminate and the plinth? You can use the same sealed silicone-based gel.
If the laminate board is joined:

with linoleum - close the seams with a plastic threshold;
with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
with a stone surface - it is desirable to close the joints with cork plates.

Silicone-based sealant will not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
If an expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use a sealant. The joints of such a laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
If a floor heating system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this coating is non-separable, and in the event of a breakdown of the floor heating system, you will have to remove the entire laminate. And this means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for the purchase of new laminate panels.
It is necessary to lay the laminate flooring along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along natural source Sveta. Otherwise, the drop shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then laying should start from big window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to mount a skirting board with different type mounts:

And this video is about the installation of a flexible profile:

When repairing an apartment, one of the most difficult areas is the ceiling. Due to shrinkage of the house, subsidence or movement of the soil, cracks of various depths form between the floors. Create beautiful view the interior with cracks in the ceiling will not succeed, therefore, the seams between the floor slabs will have to be sealed. The procedure is performed manually, but has a number of features.

Tools and materials

Sealing the seams on the ceiling will require the preparation of tools and material. They should be prepared before ceiling work with plates.

Spatula with a flexible elastic blade

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the plates? This type of work requires:

deep penetration primer, better . The primer is intended to improve adhesion concrete surface and the material with which it is planned to seal the cracks;
cement grade NTs, it is used to eliminate deep grooves. The main difference from the standard composition is the ability to expand and fill holes in the process of solidification;
for wide cracks, heat-insulating material is useful, the filler is construction foam, polyurethane or polyethylene foam;
putty with elastic material (latex);
sealant;
reinforced mesh with a width of 4-5 cm, if the width of the crack allows you to place the metal base inside;
start and finish patches.

Processing the ceiling, like the floor, walls, you will need basic electrical appliances. The type of tool depends on the seam sealing technology, usually it is enough:

spatulas of various sizes;
metal brush;
spray gun;
construction knife;
perforator, easy to replace with a drill with an impact mode;
sandpaper.

What tools do we need

Before closing the joints of the plates on the ceiling, you should take care of personal safety: eye protection goggles, a respirator, comfortable gloves and overalls.

How to remove the seams on the ceiling: the preparatory stage

Before sealing the seams on the ceiling, it is important to carry out the preparation stage of the coating. The surface must be solid and primed. Any coatings with weak fixation are best removed: old putty, paint, wallpaper, cement, lime, etc.

Sealing the seams of floor slabs is best done in clean room(after wet cleaning). To attain better adhesion and the normal flow of mineralization of the working solution, the room must be dry. A primer is applied on top of the cleaned ceiling surface.

Before moving on to applying the next layer, it is important to wait for the previous one to harden. The amount of time depends on the temperature and type of material.

Working with a wide shallow joint

In the presence of shallow cracks between floor slabs with a width of 3 cm, it is better to use a filler, mounting foam.

Seam repair is a rather laborious work that must be done scrupulously, otherwise bad work will be visible later.

How to seal the seam between the tiles on the ceiling with foam? For this:

Insert into the recess mounting gun and fill the hole with foam.
Wait for the foam to dry, usually takes about 2-4 hours.
With a construction knife, all protruding parts are removed, it is better to make a recess of a few millimeters for better grip, but the depth should not exceed 5 mm.
The recess is treated with an elastic putty. It is convenient to use the material with the help of 2 spatulas: narrow and wide. The mixture is stored on a wide tool, and putty is applied with a narrow spatula.
Cover the seams on the ceiling with a wide spatula, removing excess and other defects.

Work with a wide joint of great depth

If you have to seal a seam between tiles on the ceiling with a width of more than 3 cm and a relatively large depth, you should not use foam.

Work algorithm:

Filling the notch heat-insulating material. Foamed polyethylene and polyurethane foam are suitable for the purpose.
Fixing the insulation using a sealant with maximum resistance to moisture.
After sealing the crack, the gap is sealed with NC cement, but a small groove is left with a depth of up to 5 mm.
After the cement has completely hardened, a latex type of putty is applied on top, and the plane of the slab is leveled with it.
With a spatula, remove the excess layer of preliminary putty and level it as much as possible.

Instead of foam for sealing deep cracks, you can use ceramic tile adhesive

Working with deep and narrow joint

It is better to seal narrow but deep seams between floor slabs in the same way as in the previous case.

How to seal the seams on the ceiling between the tiles? The sequence of work is as follows:

A sealant is applied to a piece of insulation, it is placed inside the groove. The material should be firmly pushed into the recess.
After high-quality tamping with a heater, about 1 cm of depth should remain for the introduction of NC cement. It is important to leave a recess of 5 mm.
On frozen cement mortar latex putty is applied, it is leveled with a spatula.

Next steps

Sealing between panels is not completed in the previous steps. It is important to carry out the entire processing complex so that defects do not appear in the future. Otherwise, when the ground moves, the foundations of the building, the floor seams will crack again, all work will be in vain.

The reason for the appearance of cracks may be an incorrect calculation of the load on the structure or neglect of construction technology, which causes the building to shrink. It is important at the stage of building a house to take into account the weight of the insulation of the house and lay the plumbing in advance to prevent destruction. bearing walls and foundation afterwards.

Latex putty. For sealing seams, such a putty is more suitable.

Protection of joints between floor slabs from destruction is carried out in stages:

Wait for the latex putty to harden, it takes about 2 days to dry completely.
Preparation for reinforcement of the recess. The starting layer of putty is applied, it is laid with a small protrusion beyond the edges by 4-5 cm.
A reinforcing mesh is pressed into the material, a roller or a narrow spatula will do.
A spatula is passed along the putty to remove excess.
After the material has hardened, the surface should be treated sandpaper with fine or medium grain.
Reapplication starting putty will help create an ideal plane, cleaning is performed with fine-grained sandpaper.
A finishing putty coating is applied on top.
After hardening, re-treat with sandpaper.
The final stage is painting or pasting the ceiling.

Plastering

If in parallel with the destroyed seams on the ceiling there is a significant slope in any direction, it should be leveled. The best way are plaster compositions, their installation is preceded by the installation of the grid. All work surface cover concrete contact with soil, it contains solid, large particles to improve adhesion to concrete. To cover the ceiling, a composition of cement with gypsum is prepared.

The seams on the ceiling are most often closed simultaneously with the repair of the entire ceiling.

Close up the hole

Due to ignoring building codes marriage may appear on the ceiling, one of the most dangerous is a hole. termination ceiling seams between plates is performed by one of two methods.

First way:

A brush with an elongated handle cleans the hole from the inside.
It is important to remove loose dust by creating a strong grip; for this, the entire surface is thoroughly sprayed with a spray gun with soil.
Mounting foam is blown inside.
After complete solidification, cut off areas with excess material with a sharp knife.
A recess is cut in the shape of a cone with a height of 4-5 cm.
The recess is sealed with NTs cement and the material is allowed to harden.
The surface is leveled with a layer of putty, and a sickle mesh is laid inside.
Subsequent operations do not differ from sealing the seams on the ceiling between the plates.

There is a second method for sealing the joints of floor slabs with holes:

An impromptu frame is created that will fit snugly into the hole, it is placed inside the defective area. Any metal wire can be used.
The frame is fixed with a sealant, it is better to use one intended for repairing plumbing and walls in wet rooms. If the purpose of the material is damp walls, the use for repairing the ceiling often leads to a better result.
After solidification in the cavity, a lattice is obtained, it will provide a strong fixation of the solution.
A mixture of NC solution is prepared, you can use the classic composition, but it is better to add an additive that will improve the setting of the solution. To prevent the cement from falling out, it is supported from below with a piece of plywood.
The plywood is fixed from below with a support, it will hold the cement in the required position until it dries.
The wooden shield is removed only after solidification, then the finishing is carried out.

The most important thing is to strictly follow the sequence and be careful

The joint between the wall and the ceiling: ways to seal

Characteristic is the presence of not only noticeable defects in the joints between the floor slabs, but also the walls. It will not be possible to qualitatively finish the surface without eliminating cracks.

construction foam;
gypsum mortar;
putty synthetic type;
putty for outdoor work.

The simplest and effective material- foam, which in the process of solidification expands and fills the voids.

If the joints are quite large, it is worth taking care of further protection against cracking. Reinforcing mesh will help prevent the appearance of cracks, alternative materials - cotton, linen fabrics, which are impregnated in the adhesive solution. Fabrics are laid over the hole. At the final stage, a layer of plaster is laid.

What to do if joints are visible on the ceiling: final surface leveling

Regardless of the method of removing defects, it is important to create a quality top coat. To level the surface, abrasive mixtures are used.

The process of applying latex putty

To create a perfectly smooth and even surface, it is recommended to use interlining. It is glued to the ceiling to the finishing layer of putty. The material helps to eliminate small irregularities.

It is important to cover the ceiling with primer after the final leveling layer, this will help prevent the destruction of the coating and increase the durability of the putty layer. Now you can paint the ceiling, paste over or whitewash.

Construction of the building and creation of an attractive appearance is a complex task that requires taking into account many factors:

creating a reliable base will prevent cracks at the corners and between floor slabs. Before, it is important to carefully conduct preparatory work: study of soil, study of the level of soil freezing, creation correct markup and ramming surfaces. provides a service life of up to 150 years only if the laying technology is followed;
to keep the heat in the room, it is worth eliminating the leakage of heat energy through the floor. One of better ways - ;
v high-rise buildings it is better to study the plan of floor slabs first, this will help to identify potential vulnerabilities of the structure and eliminate them at the repair stage;
in the construction of housing, it is better to use composite concrete, it has high technical specifications and absolutely safe for health;

work with concrete in the cold season with a standard cement composition is unacceptable by the manufacturer, but not all companies are ready to stop construction for the winter. So is it possible to pour concrete in winter? - Yes, but it will require the addition of special mixtures to the composition or electrical heating of concrete;
if it is planned to build a house from aerated concrete, be sure to reinforce every 2-3 rows. Reinforcement is laid inside block recesses, which are created by a wall chaser for aerated concrete;

Holes of various sizes are amenable to sealing with proper observance of the technology. It is recommended to choose one of existing ways eliminate ceiling defects, they are easy to use and durable.

Experienced craftsmen know how to make the junction of tiles and tiles invisible. Of course, if it comes to a straight surface (floor or wall), then there are no problems with joining tiles and tiles. Between them, plastic crosses are usually installed, which determine the width of the seam. After the adhesive has dried, the crosses are removed, and the seam is filled with a fugue. Everything is very simple. The most difficult thing is to join the tiles in the corners.

There are several technologies for joining tiles in the corners where various devices. The simplest option is to install a special tile, which is a corner. True, this element can close the outer corner, for example, the ledge of a column or step.

The process of laying corner tiles is no different from a straight line. She is also placed on adhesive solution, which is applied to two adjacent planes adjacent to one corner of the room. The adhesive composition is leveled with a notched trowel, the tile is laid in place and leveled. Even a novice master can handle this process. It is important here - to accurately set the cladding in planes by placing crosses between the elements.

Using trims

The most popular option for finishing corners is the use of trims. These are special profile inserts that are made of plastic. For outside corners trims are L-shaped profiles, for internal trims it is a profile in the form of a concave arc. Before proceeding to the cladding, it is necessary to glue the profile itself. To do this, you can use liquid nails, sealants or the tile adhesive itself.

It should be noted that the installation of trims is not only an even joint between the tiles, it is a kind of design approach to solving the issue of decorating a room. A good trim, exactly matched to the color of the tile, is an excellent protection for the junction of the cladding elements, it is also decorative element in the interior.

Trimming the edge of a tile

This is probably the most difficult option for exterior finish corners of the room. The thing is that the ends of the two joined tiles are cut at an angle of 45 °. This is not at all easy to do, especially if we are talking about pruning with our own hands.

For this procedure, you can use a grinder, an electric tile cutter. The most effective is a tile cutter if its design has an inclined bed. That is, ceramic material is brought under the cutter at an angle that can be set with the help of inclined stops. It is very difficult to make a cut with a grinder. Here you need a steady hand and a sharp eye. But even after that, you will have to work the butt with sandpaper, bring it to maximum accuracy.

The very process of gluing tiles with an undercut is no different from a standard operation. Glue is also applied on which the tile is installed. The main requirement is to precisely join the tiles together so that they create a single whole covering that closes the corner of the room.

Internal corners

Now, as regards internal corners. Everything is clear with trims, special profiles are used here. With an undercut at 45 °, docking can also be done. True, pruning will have to be done in reverse side, that is, with outside on the reverse. It is very important not to spoil the front side of the cladding, which can lead to the impossibility of installing tiles.

There is old way, which the masters have always used. To do this, the tiles were joined together so that one of them went under the end of the other. It was not always beautiful, especially if the quality and dimensions of the lining itself left much to be desired. Therefore, such a connection necessarily had to be sealed with grout or sealing was carried out using various kinds of materials.

Attention! If the tiles are joined at the corner between the wall and the floor, then the overlay of one element on the other will depend on the purpose of the room itself. So the bathroom floor ceramic tile should go beyond the wall. This is done with one sole purpose - to prevent the condensate that flows down the walls from penetrating under the floor elements.

All of the above options for joining tiles to each other are not always the quality of the final result. Especially if a beginner is engaged in finishing. Therefore, there are various materials, with which you can hide the defects of the cladding. And then the question arises, what is the best way to close the joint? In principle, there are two standard options: grout and decorative profile. The second one is better because it completely hides the corner, and hence the defects. At the same time, it is already installed on the finished lining, gluing or liquid nails, or sealant (preferably silicone).

We must pay tribute to manufacturers who are trying to find ways to protect the junction of tiles and baths from leaks. In fact, this is the most dangerous area through which water can penetrate under the plumbing fixture, where it will collect and become a source of mold and fungi. And getting rid of them will be trumpet.

Options to close this joint.

If the wall under the bathroom is lined in the same way as the rest of the surface, that is, the device will be pressed against the lining, then it is best to install a special border (plinth) made of plastic or ceramics at the junction. In this case, the joint must be processed before installing the curb silicone sealant. A plastic border is also planted on it. Ceramic is usually laid on adhesive composition, which glued the tiles to the wall.
It is possible to seal the joint with a sealant if the gap is not very large, no more than 1 cm. If given value is 1-3 cm, then the gap will first have to be filled with mounting foam.

Attention! For these purposes, it is better to use the so-called sanitary sealant. It will not form colonies of microorganisms (mold and fungi).

It should be noted that the sealant is very sensitive to unclean surfaces, it does not adhere well to them. Therefore, before applying it, the surface of the tile and bathtub must be cleaned. detergent and then degrease with solvent or alcohol. At the same time, so that the sealant itself does not leave on ceramic surfaces its mark, which cannot be removed by anything, it is recommended to glue adhesive tape to the joint, the middle of which must be cut along the joint. And that is where the sealing material should be directed. After that, the adhesive tape is removed, and the joint surface is smoothed with a brush dipped in soapy water. A tiled joint sealed in this way is reliable in terms of complete tightness.

Between the floor slabs on the ceiling, seams inevitably remain.
Do not combine old putty with new. The old putty has already dried up, lumps have formed in it, due to which it will not be possible to achieve a smooth ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To close them, you need to do the following:
expand by removing the concrete filler from the joint;

cover it with a primer;

fill the seam with mounting foam;

cut off excess foam after it dries;

level the surface with a gypsum plaster mixture;

make the final alignment of the ceiling;

glue a strip of non-woven thin fabric or gauze onto the joint with PVA glue;

putty the seams;

sand after the putty dries with an emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:
spatula with an elastic flexible blade;

dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);

drill or perforator;

masking tape;

nozzle-mixer for a drill;

PVA glue;

primer with deep penetration properties;

fine-grained sandpaper or sanding mesh;

construction pistol;

acrylic sealant.

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Work order

The repair of irregularities on the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:
Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spade-shaped nozzle. Remove with a spatula or knife pieces of old cement screed and filler.

Clean the surface of the ceiling and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Using a brush, coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.

Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mass thoroughly construction mixer. A small amount can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared mortar for grouting should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. They carefully fill all the cracks and irregularities on the ceiling. It is better to close deep cracks in several steps. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with mounting foam. Cut off excess foam after it dries with a knife. Termination ends with a leveling layer gypsum plaster, carefully rubbing it into the pores of the foam.

After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip of masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.

After the repaired joints have dried, another layer of primer is applied to the entire surface of the ceiling and finishing putty. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula as thin as possible. Instead of finishing putty or plaster, you can glue the surface with masking fiberglass, prime and paint the ceiling. Ceiling seams completed.

Sewing seams is not easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. It must be held with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide irregularities and cracks in the ceiling is with stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, multi-level, plasterboard ceiling. It is possible with fiberglass paint mesh and various dry mixes. Over each seam between the floor slabs, a fiberglass masking mesh with a cell of 2x2 mm is laid. She also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, only after that they are reinforced with a mesh.

You can seal the seam between drywall sheets in the following sequence:

Joint and part of the surface drywall sheet coated with a putty mixture with a layer about a millimeter thick.

A paper tape is laid on the seam, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.

Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.

Each seam is sealed in the same way.

After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with an emery cloth or mesh and primed.

A fiberglass mesh is fixed on the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with push pins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed out. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the drywall sheets. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.

After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.

If necessary, a final leveling layer of putty is applied. It should finally hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. Ceiling seams completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. With the grid applied, at least one more is added. Between the application of these layers, drying, grinding and priming of the surface is carried out. It is not necessary to reduce the number of these cycles in order to save time. Such preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after that the ceiling is ready for final finishing. You can paint it in any color, paste over with wallpaper, tiles and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mix for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters plasterboard ceiling area.

Such troubles as the formation of gaps between the floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply the manifestation of once not entirely successfully sealed seams, are very common in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first sign of such phenomena, action must be taken. And for this, you need to have information on how to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling yourself, without resorting to calling finishing specialists.

If the apartment is located on the last, top floor, and a gap between the plates has appeared on the ceiling, then it is possible that it will soon begin to drip from it, which means that a persistent smell of dampness and spots of mold or fungus may appear in the rooms, and besides this , the heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are especially unpleasant in the cold months of the year. Therefore, in such a case, repairs should begin with a revision of the roof, since if you do not cope with the flaws roofing, then sealing the cracks from the inside and leveling the ceiling is a waste of time.

If the inspection of the roof suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely proceed to repair the ceiling. In the case when it is found that the waterproofing roofing material is damaged, you must first to take steps its repair, for example, to replace sheets of roofing material, which is usually used to cover the roof in multi-storey buildings with a flat "soft" roof.

However, seams can crack not only on the upper floors, but also on any others. This is a common consequence home shrinkage processes.

So, making sure that no external factors won't spoil T labor-intensive work on sealing the ceiling, you can proceed to repair activities inside the apartment.

Ceiling seam seal

If a small crack has formed between the plates, then you should start by expanding it. It often happens that the process of cutting even small crack or a crack suddenly opens up "big horizons" of work. Therefore, since the hands have already reached this repair measure, it must be done immediately in good conscience, in full, so as not to return to this issue for a long time.

If you want to solve two issues at once - sealing the seam and leveling the ceiling, you need to clean the entire seam from old concrete. Usually, this is not difficult to do, since during the construction of houses, not too strong cement mortar is used to seal the seams.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the masters who, during the construction of the house, worked on the seams of the ceilings without due diligence, you need to purchase quality materials and all the necessary tools for the job. It is necessary not only to cover up, but to carefully embroider the seam and carefully seal it when sealing.

So, starting work you need to purchase:

1. From the tools you will need a medium, wide and narrow spatula, a spray gun, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for mixing the solution, a construction knife and a drill with a perforator.

2. You can close the gaps using different materials, and it is worth listing all that may come in handy.

Deep penetration concrete primer - necessary for better adhesion of the surface and the material that will seal the joint between the plates.

NTs, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material tends to expand during hardening, densely filling the entire space of seams and joints.

Cement "NC" - perfect for sealing joints

If a wide seam is found that requires sealing, it is necessary to purchase dense insulation materials made of polyurethane or polyethylene foam. Instead, foam can be used.
Requires latex elastic putty.
Reinforcement required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should extend beyond its borders by 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
For final finishing you will need primary and finishing putty for the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling - we do it ourselves

Repairing the seams between the floor slabs will definitely entail bringing the entire ceiling in order, so you should start by completely cleaning the surface of paint, whitewash and, possibly, plaster.

Using a spray gun, the ceiling is sprayed with water. Better spraying carry out not the entire ceiling at once, but in parts. A well-moistened area is left for 10 ÷ 15 minutes to soak, and then the old coating is removed using wide and medium spatulas. After that, you can move on to the next section, on which you need to carry out the entire procedure from the beginning. Such work is carried out until the entire plane of the ceiling is completely cleaned.
Having removed the old coating in this place, the owner will immediately see the amount of work to be done. Usually there are two or three joints of floor slabs per room. Sometimes they are patched up very inaccurately and act as ugly humps. These bulges need to be eliminated and the ceiling made perfectly flat.

To do this, you need to take a puncher, install the desired nozzle on it, switch to impact mode without rotation, and step by step release the joint from the old frozen mortar.

The joint and the slab around it must be completely cleaned, and the gap itself must be deepened by at least 50 mm.

Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and carefully clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

The next step is to treat the gap with a primer in several layers, each of which must dry. The primer will make the solidified solution remaining inside the joint stronger, will not allow dampness and fungus to form in it, and will provide good contact with the repair compound, which will be applied later.
If the gap between the joints is wide enough and is more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, then you first need to fill it with mounting foam. It will be well fixed on the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

When it hardens, the foam will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is carefully cut off so that at the joint of the plates in the foam a groove is formed, 30 ÷ 50 mm deep, tapering inwards, like a triangle.

If during cleaning a joint is deep, but at the same time narrow, then it is worth doing the following.

Having chosen a sealant made of foamed polyethylene of the required thickness, on it On the one side a strip of sealant is applied and filled into the cleaned and primed joint with a spatula, leaving room for filling with concrete.

Further, the joint is sealed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is imperative to leave a small recess in the joint to expand the mortar and decorative plaster.

seam seal concrete mortar"NC"

After the solution has dried or the groove has been prepared in the dried mounting foam, an elastic latex-based is applied to the joint. Work is best done using two spatulas - wide and medium or narrow. A solution is taken from a container on a wide spatula, and with a narrow one it is applied to the joint between the plates, compacting into a seam and leveling to the level of the ceiling surface, while removing excess putty.

After 2 hours, which will be required for drying, they begin to reinforce the seams. To do this, with a spatula, a thin layer of putty is applied to the seam and the ceiling next to it in a strip of 50 ÷ 60 mm, a sickle mesh is fixed on it, pressing it into the solution and removing its excess with a spatula.

After the joints have dried, the entire ceiling is treated with a primer, applying it with a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of the composition.
When the ceiling is dry, you can proceed to it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it dries, a finishing final smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time leveled to the ideal.

Finishing- plastering the ceiling

After the finish layer has dried, paint, whitewash or wallpaper can be applied to the ceiling.

Video: repair of seams between floor slabs

Fixing a hole in the ceiling

Sometimes it also happens that when cleaning the seam from the old solution, not just a narrow gap opens, but big hole- Defect of the floor slab. In this case, this hole can be repaired in two ways.

Sometimes such a “surprise” may appear on the ceiling when cutting seams.

In any case, the first thing to do is to carefully clean the inside of the resulting hole. This process is best done with a narrow brush.

1. Having freed the inside of the hole from dirt, it must be well sprayed with a primer. After waiting for the first layer to dry, it is necessary to apply the second.

Next, the hole is filled with mounting foam.
Then, after it dries and expands, the excess is cut off, and a cone is cut from the inside of the hole, at the base the size of the hole, and 40 ÷ 50 mm high.
This cutout is necessary to fix the cement mortar in it, which is applied in the next step. It is leveled with a spatula and left to dry completely.
Then putty is applied to the place where the hole was and around it for 50 ÷ 70 mm, and a sickle mesh is glued on it, which is pressed into the applied layer of the solution, smoothed and left to dry.
Further work proceeds in the same way as when sealing seams.

2. Another termination method differs from the first, and it is used if a large void is found in the ceiling.

In this case, you will need a piece of plywood (you can use scraps of laminate) about 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
Then, it is necessary to strengthen the wire grate in the hole, which must be fixed to the sealant or cement mortar inside the hole. After the mortar has dried, the wire must be securely fastened inside the opening. The grate will serve as reinforcement for the repair mortar, with which they create a kind stove.

Sealing a volumetric hole in the ceiling - an approximate diagram

Mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared plywood, it must be uniform and not excessively thick.
The plywood platform with the solution is lifted and pressed tightly against the hole so that the solution completely fills the remaining cavity. We will have to come up with a reliable support for this kind of formwork, which will hold it until the repair composition dries completely. For this, a thick branch, a bar or a pyramid of a table and chairs is suitable.
After the mortar dries in the opening, a perfectly flat ceiling surface will be obtained.
Next, you can begin to work on putting in order the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: sealing a volumetric hole in a floor slab

It should be noted that the joint between the plates is quite possible to update independently. But the full is enough hard work, so it is better to entrust it to an experienced master finisher. However, if there is a desire and self-confidence, and this is quite doable.