Spathiphyllum reproduction types and methods. Spathiphyllum: how to plant seeds or seedlings? Process instructions and further care

Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, becomes unbearable, it cannot be painlessly replaced by the earth. At this time, loosen and remove only upper layer. Meanwhile, the spathiphyllum flower is aging and losing its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable a plant is for you, it needs to prepare a replacement. The procedure will not seem difficult for those who annually transplant a flower into a larger container.

Spathiphyllum breeding principles

The biology of the flower is such that it does not have stems, and the lanceolate leaves emerge directly from the ground, from the root of dormant buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates a vagina, from which a flower stem appears, wrapped in a snow-white blanket, like in a diaper. This is how the curtain grows, which allows you to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains either a finished plant with roots, or a dormant bud.

How spathiphyllum reproduces by others known ways? It happens:

• obtaining a plant from dormant buds of a piece of rhizome;
• receiving young plant from layering or cuttings;
• sowing seeds.

When propagating spathiphyllum by any vegetative method with good care it can bloom in 8-10 months. The seed method does not imply the transfer of signs of the uterine bush, flowering occurs in 3-4 years. In this case, there is a chance to get a completely new variety.

For vegetative propagation it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant is just starting to grow after a winter rest. However, in case of illness or for another reason, the plant can be carefully transplanted even during flowering.

Soil requirements or how to prepare soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves soil with low acidity, composed of equal parts:

• garden or sod land;
• leaf humus;
• sand.

In addition, to give a resemblance to natural composition a total of 1 part of fine coniferous bark, charcoal, ground into a fine fraction and brick or ceramic chips is added. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Regardless of whether to sow seeds or root cuttings, spathiphyllum propagation work is carried out at a room temperature of at least 21 degrees.

After planting or sowing seeds, do everything possible for rooting. To do this, they create a mini-greenhouse, moisten the leaves and the surface of the soil, and create conditions for the rapid restoration of the roots.

Important for the vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum is the choice of dishes. The containers should not be spacious, or several divisions should be planted in them at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.

It is important when planting to leave enough space on top for, at the bottom to have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay, and not to deepen the root neck of the plant.

How to plant a spathiphyllum, which is cramped in a container

To do this, you need to water the plant so that it easily slips out of the old pot. Since the goal is to get maximum amount delenok, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin, so that the roots are freed from the ground. Put the plant on the table. In this case, the parts into which the bush must be cut when dividing will be clearly visible.

Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave young light. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal and prepare containers. Pour 2 cm of earth over the drainage, and arrange the roots of the division, slightly straightening them. Holding the plant in the air, carefully add a little prepared soil for the spathiphyllum. Shake the glass lightly and compact the earth with your fingers. After filling up the roots, water the soil for compaction, after the earth settles, fill it up to the neck and shake the plant to see if it sits tightly.

The first week you need to moisten the leaves from the spray gun, keep the plant under a cap with little ventilation. If the clod of earth dries up, moisten it a little so as not to provoke the decay of diseased roots. A sign that the plant is rooted will be the appearance of a young leaf. After that, the plant is gradually released from the shelter, start feeding after 3 months at a half dose.

Reproduction by divisions without roots and pieces of rhizome

In this case, the division should be germinated in water and then planted as described above. Rhizomes are laid out on wet sand or peat. At the same time, until the moment of germination of the roots, the wet litter should be constantly. From above cover with a film, but ventilate. As a result, the fragment will release roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.

How does spathiphyllum reproduce by seeds?

The plant is cross-pollinated, has male and female flower stalks. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. The male blooms earlier by 2-3 days, the pollen disappears until the female flower ripens. Therefore, seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom at different times. The pollinated female flower turns green over time, becomes puffy from cones that turn into peas. Seeds ripen up to six months. Their vitality is low, and it is necessary to sow from them immediately after harvesting.

When purchasing seeds, make sure they are fresh. If mother plant was a hybrid, then the splitting of properties would be inevitable. Seedlings are grown in a closed bowl, sometimes opening it for ventilation. Seedlings appear unevenly, several seedlings will appear from one pea. After germination, the plant must be accustomed to air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.

Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of the apartment in winter. Can sow a large container for decoration office space and young flowers will create original composition blooming at the same time.

Another way would be to grow the seedlings up to 5-6 cm and plant them in separate cups, from which you can also make up any composition, but later they are easier to transplant.

Spathiphyllum transplant video

Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, becomes unbearable, it cannot be painlessly replaced by the earth. At this time, loosen and remove only the top layer. Meanwhile, the spathiphyllum flower is aging and losing its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable a plant is for you, it needs to prepare a replacement. The procedure will not seem difficult for those who annually transplant a flower into a larger container.

Spathiphyllum breeding principles

The biology of the flower is such that it does not have stems, and the lanceolate leaves emerge directly from the ground, from the root of dormant buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates a vagina, from which a flower stem appears, wrapped in a snow-white blanket, like in a diaper. This is how the curtain grows, which allows you to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains either a finished plant with roots, or a dormant bud.

How does spathiphyllum reproduce in other known ways? It happens:

• obtaining a plant from dormant buds of a piece of rhizome;
• obtaining a young plant from layering or cuttings;
• sowing seeds.

When propagating spathiphyllum in any vegetative way, with good care, it can bloom in 8-10 months. The seed method does not imply the transfer of signs of the uterine bush, flowering occurs in 3-4 years. In this case, it is possible to get a completely new variety of female flower.

For vegetative propagation, it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant is just starting to grow after a winter rest. However, in case of illness or for another reason, the plant can be carefully transplanted even during flowering.

Soil requirements or how to prepare soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves soil with low acidity, composed of equal parts:

• garden or sod land;
• leaf humus;
• peat;
• sand.

Additionally, to give a resemblance to the natural composition, a total of 1 part of fine coniferous bark, charcoal, ground into a fine fraction and brick or ceramic chips is added. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Regardless of whether to sow seeds or root cuttings, spathiphyllum propagation work is carried out at a room temperature of at least 21 degrees.

After planting or sowing seeds, do everything possible for rooting. To do this, they create a mini-greenhouse, moisten the leaves and the surface of the soil, and create conditions for the rapid restoration of the roots.

Important for the vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum is the choice of dishes. The containers should not be spacious, or several divisions should be planted in them at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.

When planting, it is important to leave enough space for watering on top, to have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay below, and not to deepen the root neck of the plant.

How to plant a spathiphyllum, which is cramped in a container

To do this, you need to water the plant so that it easily slips out of the old pot. Since the task is to get the maximum number of divisions, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin so that the roots are freed from the ground. Put the plant on the table. In this case, the parts into which the bush must be cut when dividing will be clearly visible.

Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave young light. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal and prepare containers. Pour 2 cm of earth over the drainage, and arrange the roots of the division, slightly straightening them. Holding the plant in the air, carefully add a little prepared soil for the spathiphyllum. Shake the glass lightly and compact the earth with your fingers. After filling up the roots, water the soil for compaction, after the earth settles, fill it up to the neck and shake the plant to see if it sits tightly.

The first week you need to moisten the leaves from the spray gun, keep the plant under a cap with little ventilation. If the clod of earth dries up, moisten it a little so as not to provoke the decay of diseased roots. A sign that the plant is rooted will be the appearance of a young leaf. After that, the plant is gradually released from the shelter, start feeding after 3 months at a half dose.

Reproduction by divisions without roots and pieces of rhizome

In this case, the division should be germinated in water and then planted as described above. Rhizomes are laid out on wet sand or peat. At the same time, until the moment of germination of the roots, the wet litter should be constantly. From above cover with a film, but ventilate. As a result, the fragment will release roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.

How does spathiphyllum reproduce by seeds?

The plant is cross-pollinated, has male and female flower stalks. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. The male blooms earlier by 2-3 days, the pollen disappears until the female flower ripens. Therefore, seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom at different times. The pollinated female flower turns green over time, becomes puffy from cones that turn into peas. Seeds ripen up to six months. Their vitality is low, and it is necessary to sow from them immediately after harvesting.

When purchasing seeds, make sure they are fresh. If the mother plant was a hybrid, then the splitting of properties would be inevitable. Seedlings are grown in a closed bowl, sometimes opening it for ventilation. Seedlings appear unevenly, several seedlings will appear from one pea. After germination, the plant must be accustomed to air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.

Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of the apartment in winter. You can sow a large container to decorate an office space and young flowers will create an original composition, blooming at the same time.

Another way would be to grow the seedlings up to 5-6 cm and plant them in separate cups, from which you can also make up any composition, but later they are easier to transplant.

Spathiphyllum is not in vain in high demand and well-deserved respect, especially from women. After all, this beautiful and delicate flower brings family harmony into our lives. Even if you do not believe in signs, lush greenery combined with white flowers causes a feeling of delight. In addition, this plant is unpretentious, and, despite its tropical origin, gets along well in our apartments. But in order not to harm the plant with inept actions, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of care.

History and description of the plant

Charming and gentle, this is how I want to describe this, modest, at first glance, flower. Spathiphyllum is one of the most purchased plants. And it doesn’t matter if it’s a holiday according to the calendar or weekdays, the plant does not linger in the flower shop.

A smart spathiphyllum never lingers in a flower shop

The plant was first described in the 19th century. But wide use received as a houseplant in the 60s of the last century.

In nature, spathiphyllum prefers to settle in moist and warm places. Wild-growing specimens are found in swampy areas, along the banks of rivers and streams. The distribution area is considered to be the territory from Central to South America and the islands of the Old World - New Guinea, Sulawesi, Philippines, Palau, Moluccas and Solomon Islands.

Spathiphyllum prefers moist and warm places for resettlement.

Spathiphyllum is a very attractive perennial evergreen. In nature, as a rule, it is represented by terrestrial species, but epiphytes are also found. The plant has a short rhizome, but no stem - its long petioles begin to grow vertically right from ground level and are crowned with glossy deep green leaves. The leaf blade is entire, oval or lanceolate in shape with a pointed tip. The surface is decorated with a clear relief of veins - a well-distinguished central one, and lateral ones running parallel to it.

The plant, depending on the species, has different height. There are quite miniature specimens that grow a little over 20 cm. And there are giants at all - their height exceeds a meter bar.

For landscaping the interior, you can purchase small or large spathiphyllums, species diversity this allows

Numerous pedicels grow as long as the petiole, or slightly higher. The inflorescences consist of an ear of yellow or milky and a white veil growing at the base of the cob. The spathe resembles an elongated ellipse, it grows longer than the cob. Close to completion of the flowering process white bedspread starts to change its color and becomes green.

The name of a plant belonging to the Aroid family is literally translated as “veil” and “leaf”, which is actually confirmed appearance flower.

Why is the plant called "women's happiness"?

The spathiphyllum has several names - a white sail, a female flower or a lily of the world. But it is precisely “female happiness” that is firmly entrenched in everyday life. It is believed that this delicate flower is endowed with a large magic power. For attention to itself, the flower will thank the hostess. He brings her joy, happiness and peace of mind, increase self-esteem and improve health, she finds harmony not only with herself, but also with the outside world.

Spathiphyllum is called "female happiness", because the plant thanks its owner for taking care of these values.

A few signs associated with spathiphyllum

• if you give this plant to a lonely woman, then sincere love will not take long;
• if a woman is childless, spathiphyllum will help to find the happiness of motherhood;
• for a married couple, the plant will give harmony in relationships;
• if you give a flower to a stranger, happiness will leave your home.

In order to double the positive effect of the spathiphyllum, one more happiness must be acquired in pair with it - male, that is, anthurium. Growing and profusely flowering plants are an indicator of ideal and harmonious relationships in the family.

In order for the positive effect of spathiphyllum to acquire double strength, you need to purchase anthurium in pair with it

Spathiphyllum or Anthurium?

Both of these plants belong to the same family - Aroids. But, nevertheless, they have differences in appearance.

What are the differences between spathiphyllum and anthurium - table

Spathiphyllum species used in home cultivation

The genus Spathiphyllum includes about 50 species. But in indoor floriculture, not all species are represented, but only the most adapted to home conditions. In addition, there are many hybrid forms obtained through the efforts of breeders.

1. Bearing the name of its discoverer, this species is considered the most unpretentious, and therefore very popular. The size of the bush will fit perfectly even in small rooms- plant height is only 20 - 30 cm. The color range of oblong lanceolate leaves ranges from emerald green at a young age to dark green in adult plants. small cob, white color. It is surrounded by a snow-white blanket, which may turn green over time. Differs in plentiful flowering, which lasts from spring to autumn.
2. Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped. The plant is tall - up to 1 m in height. The leaves are glossy, dark green, slightly wavy along the edges. The petiole is long - up to 70 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a white cob, surrounded by a long veil of an elongated oval shape.
3. Spathiphyllum profusely flowering. In popularity, it is not inferior to Wallis due to the long flowering period. The leaves are oblong-oval, initially light green, and then acquiring more saturated color. Flowers small, white. The height of the plant reaches 50 cm. Based on the species, several hybrids have been bred, one of which is the popular Mauna Loa.
4. The largest member of the genus. With proper care, it grows to a 1.5 meter giant. The leaves are large - up to 90 cm long, 30 - 40 cm wide, dark green. The surface has a pronounced ribbing. The inflorescences are large - almost 50 cm.
5. Glossy, dense, dark green leaves form a plant 50 cm high. A feature of this species is the vertical growth of petioles, which practically do not deviate to the side, like in other species.

Photo gallery of spathiphyllum species

Spathiphyllum Wallis is the most popular among other species. Spathiphyllum Spoon-shaped stands out due to its large size Spathiphyllum profusely flowering is the parent form for many hybrids
Spathiphyllum Sensation is a real giant among relatives In spathiphyllum Alan, petioles grow almost vertically.

Variegated representatives of the genus

Variegated representatives of the genus Spathiphyllum are good because it is impossible to meet plants with the same leaf color.

Its bright green foliage, on which white strokes are clearly visible, as if left by an artist's brush, causes enthusiastic exclamations. tall unpretentious plant grows up to 50 cm.

Spathiphyllum Picasso due to its unusual color is a unique species

High ornamental plant, 50 - 60 cm high. Dense green leaves are covered with numerous white strokes. The inflorescence consists of a white-yellow or slightly greenish cob, wrapped in a white veil. By the way, the plant is quite rare in flower shops, although it is difficult to call it difficult to care for.

Spathiphyllum Domino will delight any aesthete

Features of growing and caring for a flower at home

It's no secret that all flowers love proper care. Spathiphyllum is no exception in this regard. And although the plant can be safely classified as simple in terms of maintenance, you need to know some nuances.

In winter, with a lack of sunlight, you can spread a reflective substrate under a pot of spathiphyllum

Under no circumstances can a heat-loving spathiphyllum be kept in a draft, so when airing, set the plant aside. But Fresh air very fond of in the summer. A place on the balcony or in the garden that is slightly shaded and inaccessible to the wind will greatly please your flower.

Features of watering and moistening

The soil in a spathiphyllum pot should always be in a state of light moisture. In spring and summer, watering should be plentiful. In winter, the frequency of humidification is reduced, depending on the temperature in the room.

The main rules of watering

• never overmoisten the soil;
• the liquid accumulated in the pan must be drained, since stagnation of water in the roots will lead to their illness;
• do not allow the earthen coma to dry out;
• watering is carried out only with well-settled water, which should be at room temperature;
• flowering - the period when you should not skimp on water;
• we carry out the next watering, focusing on the state of the topsoil - it should dry out a few centimeters deep.

In summer, with an increase temperature regime The plant needs daily spraying. It responds well to the shower, with which the leaves get rid of dust. But the flowers while bathing are best hidden from water drops. In winter, when kept in a cool room, the plant is not sprayed. If the spathiphyllum is placed near the included heating appliances then spraying is necessary. Spray water should be well settled and not lower than room temperature.

Maintaining humidity around the flower at least 50% - important condition for normal development

top dressing

The growing season of spathiphyllum lasts from March to September. It is at this moment that the flower needs nutrients. As a rule, universal fertilizers are used for top dressing for flowering plants with a balanced composition. But a concentrated solution should be diluted a little more than expected, otherwise tender root system may get burned.

The plant responds very well to organics and natural additives. The alternation of mineral and organic dressings gives amazing results.

Any type of liquid fertilizer is applied only to pre-moistened soil.

Fertilization - table

If the spathiphyllum blooms in the autumn-winter period, it must be supported, but top dressing is applied less often than during the active growing season

The soil

Choosing the right soil for your plant is the main task of the grower. As a representative of the Aroid family, spathiphyllum prefers loose soils that pass moisture well and do not interfere with gas exchange in the roots. The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made aroid substrate and add pieces of charcoal to it. But it is also not difficult to prepare the soil mixture yourself, it is enough to purchase the following components:

• leaf ground;
• sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• river sand.

It tolerates spathiphyllum and simple leaf humus well, but to make it more friable, brick chips and charcoal should be added to its composition.

Important little things

1. The soil for spathiphyllum should be slightly acidic - pH 5 - 6.
2. Be sure to use charcoal in soil mixtures. This is an excellent antiseptic that will protect the roots from rotting in case of accidental waterlogging of the soil.
3. A self-made substrate must be disinfected. To do this, use a hot dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Charcoal - required component when compiling the soil mixture for spathiphyllum, and activated charcoal is needed to powder small wounds during transplantation

Choosing the right pot

If anyone does not know, then the spathiphyllum loves cramped spaces very much. If you transplant the plant into a large container, then you can not wait for early flowering. Only when the roots have mastered the entire volume of the substrate, flowers will appear. Therefore, choose pots that are slightly larger than the previous one so that the root system is comfortable.

The material from which the pot is made does not matter. But for large species(for example, Sensation), it is better to choose a more stable container - a ceramic pot or a small tub.

The presence of drainage holes to remove excess liquid is the main requirement for any container. Be sure to drain the water that has drained into the pan after watering.

Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are a prerequisite

Transfer

Since the pot for the spathiphyllum needs a small one, the transplant will have to be carried out often. Young plants are transplanted annually, and specimens that have reached the age of 5 are transplanted as needed. The signal is the roots sprouting through drainage holes and growth retardation.

Most the best time for the procedure - spring.

It is not so easy to transplant large plants growing in tubs or large ceramic containers, therefore, in order not to starve the flower, the top layer of the depleted earth is replaced with a new, more fertile one. The replacement must be carried out carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Spathiphyllum loves tight containers, but an overgrown flower needs to be transplanted

Do I need to repot after purchase?

After the purchase, the plant needs to be transplanted. The main reason for this is the unsuitable substrate. The transport soil is very moisture-intensive, dries out for a long time and causes the root system to rot. In addition, in a purchased plant, the roots often have nowhere to develop further, since they have braided the entire peat ball. But the transplant should be carried out no earlier than a week and a half. During this time, the plant must adapt to new conditions so as not to experience double stress.

Transplant method

1. Choose a suitable size pot with drainage holes.
2. Be sure to lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom, at least 3 cm high.
3. Sprinkle some soil on top.
4. If you are transplanting a recently purchased plant, then carefully remove it from the pot, try to remove pieces of the transport soil, but only those that fall off easily. You can also dip the roots in a bowl of water and rinse them lightly. If the spathiphyllum has already been transplanted before, and you change the pot that has become cramped, then the transplant is carried out by transshipment in order to cause as little harm as possible to the roots.
5. Set the flower in the center of the new container and start adding the prepared soil from the sides.
6. Landing should be carried out at the same level.
7. After the soil fills the pot, lightly tap it on the edge of the table so that the earthen mixture can be distributed as evenly as possible in the roots.
8. Water the plant. Wait for the excess liquid to pour into the pan and remove it.
9. Put the plant in a suitable place.

How to transplant a purchased spathiphyllum - video

reproduction

Spathiphyllum can be propagated in 3 ways - by dividing a bush or rhizome, cuttings and seeds.

Division of a bush or rhizome

This is the easiest way to get some new plants. Spend it during a transplant.

1. Take the plant out of the pot.
2. Shake off excess soil.
3. Unravel the long roots so they don't break.
4. Using a sharp knife or scissors, divide the rhizome so that there are growth points on them, consisting of at least 3 young leaves and roots.
5. Sprinkle the cut points with crushed activated carbon.
6. Plant the delenki in small pots with a suitable soil mixture.
7. The soil should be well moistened, since in the early days it is not advisable to water young plants until the wounds have healed. But you can spray the leaves.

To get new spathiphyllums, you can divide the plant in the spring during transplantation

cuttings

This method can also be called simple, but there are some nuances that will help the successful rooting of the cutting. Young rosettes that appeared at the base of an adult plant in the spring can be carefully separated. The main task for the grower is to grow the root system so that the further planting of the young plant is successful.

Root cuttings in wet sand. Preferably in a mini-greenhouse to create favorable conditions - warmth and a sufficient level of humidity. You can also grow roots in plain water with the addition of activated charcoal. After the root system is formed and new leaves begin to appear, the spathiphyllum is planted in a pot.

What mistakes can occur when rooting a cutting - video

Reproduction by seeds

The work is laborious and not always successful. But nevertheless, who is interested in the process itself and who is not afraid of difficulties, can try.

The most a big problem- this is a rapid loss of the ability of seeds to sprout. Therefore, you will either have to pollinate the existing spathiphyllum yourself or seek help from the same enthusiasts as you.

What care problems can arise and how to fix them

Spathiphyllum is not capricious, but sometimes oversight or ignorance of the rules of care can lead to a sad result. To prevent this from happening, you need to learn to understand the plant. After all, its appearance suggests that it went wrong.

Yellowed leaves can signal several errors:

• low air humidity;
• insufficient watering, in which the earth lump is often in an overdried state;
• watering with hard, insufficiently settled water;
• after a long and abundant flowering spathiphyllum may be nutritionally deficient.

Carefully inspect the plant, analyze the condition of the soil and conditions of detention:

• if the room is too hot, then you need to increase the humidity around the plant and spray the leaves daily;
• dry soil do not fill immediately large quantity water, and increase the rate gradually, bringing to the desired frequency of watering;
• water only with pre-settled water;
• during the flowering period, the plant needs top dressing, do not forget about it.

The yellow leaves of the spathiphyllum can be the result of several reasons, which one, you will understand after analyzing the situation

The tips of the leaves begin to turn black. The most likely cause may be over-watering at low room temperatures. Try to bring the temperature and frequency of watering to the prescribed norms, and the spathiphyllum will quickly grow new healthy foliage.

The blackening edges of the leaves of the spathiphyllum indicate low temperature and waterlogging.

The flowers are starting to turn green. This is not a problem at all. The fact is that in the final stage of flowering, the white coverlet begins to turn green and fade. This process is quite natural, and you only need to cut the peduncle at the base. And some types of spathiphyllum even have a light green coverlet color.

Leaves turn brown and dry. This is a low humidity signal. Regular spraying of the leaves will return the freshness of green foliage to the spathiphyllum.

At low humidity, the tips of the leaves begin to dry.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom. The reason may be too large volume pot, because until the plant has mastered the entire space, flowering will not occur. Another reason could be a lack of light. Move the plant to the most lit place (but not to the direct rays of the sun) and soon the spathiphyllum will sprout with white inflorescences.

The flower has slowed down, the leaves become chlorotic. This happens from a lack of manganese and iron. If these trace elements are present in the nutrient solution, then the plant cannot fully assimilate them due to poor soil aeration or cold. Move the flower to a warm room and replace the substrate if necessary.

With an unbalanced diet, spathiphyllum can slow down growth

Sometimes drops of water may appear on the leaves. You shouldn't worry. So the plant naturally gets rid of excess fluid in the tissues when high humidity environment. Take note of this if you are a fan of frequent spraying.

Diseases and pests characteristic of spathiphyllum

If you do not eliminate the errors that have arisen in the process of improper care in time, then the pests indoor plants happy to settle on a flower. Yes, and diseases are frequent companions of weakened plants.

Control and prevention of diseases and pests - table

Spathiphyllum is a universal flower. It looks great as a solo plant, harmonious in combination with other representatives of the flora. With proper care will delight you long flowering. But in order to really enjoy the beautiful appearance of the spathiphyllum and feel it on yourself beneficial effect, you need to make friends with a flower.

And the reproduction of this flower is not difficult, although, like any living organism, it needs care. But if you are not too lazy and give him a little attention, he will thank you with his undemanding and long beautiful flowering.

Plant features

Like the rest of the aroids, spathiphyllum is not deadly, but still poisonous. Its leaves contain calcium oxalate, so touching them can cause dermatitis in some allergic people. Do not let the cat, if you have one in your house, chew on the plant. The death of the animal is unlikely, but sores on the oral mucous membranes, diarrhea and vomiting are unlikely to please you. On the other hand, the spathiphyllum does not release poisonous phytoncides into the air, so it does not threaten to inhale poison. At the same time, it is worth considering beneficial features. The plant perfectly cleans the air space in the house from harmful components. True, for the effectiveness of this process in a room of twenty square meters six to seven mature plants should live. However, this is not a problem - the reproduction of the spathiphyllum is not difficult, even a novice grower can handle it.

Choosing a window sill

This plant is shade tolerant. Moreover, it just prefers soft, diffused lighting. In bright, direct light, spathiphyllum leaves fade and begin to dry. So that perfect choice the north, usually empty window will become. True, if there is very little light (for example, a large branchy tree grows just in this place), then the foliage becomes densely green, shrinks and stretches. Flowering is questionable. Yes, and the reproduction of spathiphyllum will not be successful - new specimens simply will not take root. But this plant survives well with even fluorescent lamps are not required - ordinary, apartment ones are enough. This is used by phytodesigners when decorating offices and shops. In summer, it would be nice to take the pots outside - to the balcony or to the garden. But again, you need to choose a shaded place so that the plants do not get burned and do not “sad” from excess sunlight.

Temperature regime

Spathiphyllum does not need to create special thermal conditions. Ordinary room temperature fit him perfectly. True, if the thermometer shows less than +18, the growth of the flower stops, and it will not bloom. Higher temperatures are also required for the reproduction of spathiphyllum: planted plants need 22-23 degrees for survival. Therefore, they are often covered with circumcised plastic bottles with holes, creating a mini-greenhouse.

What you need to diligently protect the spathiphyllum from is drafts. Even with a fan running nearby, the flower can get sick and die. When using the air conditioner, you should not turn on the mode below 20 degrees, and the pots with plants should be moved away from it.

How often to water

Spathiphyllum is a moisture-loving plant. The soil in his "house" should always be wet. No need to wait for the complete drying of the earthen coma. However, when overflowing, the likelihood of root rot is high. Therefore, if water still remains in the pan an hour after irrigation, it must be drained. A sign of excess moisture is the appearance on the leaves dark spots. Noticing them, it is necessary to revise the irrigation schedule. The lack of water is manifested by a sharp drooping of all leaves. There is no need to be afraid: literally a couple of hours after receiving moisture, they will straighten again.

You need to be especially careful when watering the planted spathiphyllum - reproduction and transplants can injure the plant. Therefore, the land is well shed before these procedures, and watering is resumed only after three or four days.

Humidity is important

He loves spathiphyllum and spraying - like all plants with a large leaf plate. In the heat, such manipulations must be done twice a day - in the morning, before the onset of the sun, and in the evening, when it subsides. If this is not possible (for example, in the office), the pot is placed in a tray with wet moss, pebbles or expanded clay. However, even these measures do not eliminate the need to spray the flower in the summer at least every other day.

Transplants

Spathiphyllum needs to move to a new place of residence throughout its life. Young plants need to be repotted annually, adults over five years old - only when the roots have filled the entire pot. You can determine the moment by the roots that have stuck through the drainage holes. new pot a low one is bought and only slightly larger than the previous one: in such conditions, the spathiphyllum takes root faster and blooms more readily. Drainage is a must, and it is better to choose larger ones. If possible, you need to add sphagnum to the soil - the soil will not dry out too abruptly. The ideal substrate will be consisting of sod land, sand, peat and leafy soil. The ratio is 1:1:2:2. After transplantation, in the evening, the plant is sprayed with epin (two drops per glass warm water). So he will quickly and painlessly take root. For the same purpose, watering is stopped, but spraying is required twice a day until watering is resumed.

sheet seating

Sooner or later, you will want to increase your plantation of these beautiful plants. First of all, we will warn against the mistakes of those who have not grown spathiphyllum before. Reproduction by leaf is impossible. Unlike, for example, begonias, a spathiphyllum leaf dipped into water will simply rot without giving roots. The same will happen if it is immediately stuck into the ground, as is done with many succulents. Flower growers practice spathiphyllum propagation by cuttings or by dividing the rhizome. Perhaps, of course, the use of seeds, but it is complicated by many factors, which will be discussed below.

cuttings

Vegetative methods are applicable to almost any plant - some more, others less. Spathiphyllum is no exception. Reproduction by dividing the bush is most popular due to the relative simplicity of the process. At the base of an adult plant, "babies" are formed - a small leaf rosette with pecked roots. In the spring, when transplanting time comes, they are carefully separated from the mother plant. The main thing in this process is to untangle the roots, trying not to break them off. The cuttings are rooted in soaked sand or perlite. Reproduction of spathiphyllum will occur without trouble if each new bush is covered with a transparent cap, preferably with holes. If they are absent and they cannot be done, you will have to ventilate the plantings two or three times a day. When the root system grows and gets stronger, the planted plants move into the substrate prepared in the way already described.

Division of the rhizome

You can plant a spathiphyllum in another way. Reproduction by root divisions, on the one hand, gives almost one hundred percent survival rate. On the other hand, you need to be able to do this so as not to ruin mother plant. So they only resort to it experienced growers. Such an operation is also performed in the spring, during transplant manipulations, so as not to disturb the plant once again. The rhizome is divided with a sharp knife, the slices are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. By no means activated! The rest of the steps are the same as for cuttings.

Seed Trouble

There is another way, very unreliable, to get a new spathiphyllum. Reproduction at home using seed material is theoretically possible, but unlikely to be successful. Firstly, to obtain them, artificial pollination is required, which does not always give the planned results. Secondly, the germination of the seeds of this flower is very low. Moreover, the seeds are not stale: even after a day, half of them are guaranteed not to sprout. Thirdly, after sowing in sandy-peat soil, the container is covered with glass, and your task is to simultaneously maintain its moisture content and prevent it from seed suffocate. Therefore, basically the method remains purely theoretical - gardeners propagate spathiphyllum vegetatively.

Bloom

The main thing that attracts lovers of indoor plants in the spathiphyllum is a long, up to two months, flowering. An additional bait is the fact that most varieties produce "cobs" quite willingly. However, it happens that, despite the care and proper care, the plant is naughty. There are several ways to push it in the right direction.

1. Changing the pot. Most often, the refusal to bloom is caused by unfavorable light or thermal conditions. You can try to move the plant to a more "bright" place. At first, in order for it to get used to, you need to either shade it or move it to a less lit place. After adaptation, it will be possible to give the spathiphyllum more light. Very often, almost immediately, he throws out the buds.
2. Often stimulates flowering high humidity. Either spray more frequently, or turn on a humidifier, or simply place a container of water next to it.
3. If such simple actions did not give a result, transfer the spathiphyllum (temporarily!) to water fasting. At first, water it less often than usual for a couple of weeks, and then leave it completely without water for a week. In order not to harm the flower, spray it more often. After holding the specified time, move the pot closer to the light, return to normal watering regimen and feed the spathiphyllum with fertilizers for flowering plants. It will bloom within a month.

Well, in order for the flowering to be longer, you should cut off the faded "cobs" in time. Then they will not slow down the development of new ones.

Try bringing a spathiphyllum to your window garden. Reproduction (see photo in the article), easy and almost always successful, will allow you to quickly decorate your home with this beautiful plant with glossy leaves and delicate white flowers.

For a family such as spathiphyllum, reproduction can be carried out by several methods. Spathiphyllum root is a large creeping underground plant organ. He is directly involved in the divorce. At the time of transplantation, which is carried out in the spring, the rhizome is divided into several small parts, while observing optimum temperature 20 - 21°C.
For lovers of neat compact bushes and avoiding extensive branching, which is activated by numerous growth points per tuber, the plant should be divided into fragments. Each such site will be a part of the rhizome, with a growing point and 2-3 leaves located on it. Such fragments are placed in pots with a ready-made substrate, the size of which does not exceed 12-15 cm.

Spathiphyllum reproduction: root division

When dividing a tuber, it is necessary to monitor the presence of a growth point and at least two leaves in each separated area. Pots at the same time pick up small sizes with low walls. A room with a warm climate and wet sand the necessary conditions for a good rooting of the pet. Planting in pots is carried out only after several roots appear on the cuttings of the plant.
The acidity of the soil for breeding this species must be kept within slightly acidic values ​​( pH - from 5 to 6.5).

The composition of the soil should include turf, peat, leaf soil and sand in proportions of 0.5: 1: 1: 0.5.

In addition, it is useful to mix the soil mixture with brick chips in combination with charcoal. Availability good drainage very important for the comfortable growth of the plant.

Spathiphyllum seed propagation

Reproduction by rhizome fragments is a very simple method. It is much more difficult to try to grow a new shoot from a seed. To obtain seeds, the mother plant is artificially pollinated, and green berries are formed. These are fruits with numerous seeds. Ready seeds should not be stored for a long time, because germination rates quickly decline. They must be immediately placed in sandy-peat soil, and a film or other covering material will help maintain the required temperature. Close attention must be paid to soil moisture.