How to make polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands? The method of pouring polymer floors, consumer reviews and prices for materials Filling floors with a polymer coating.

The technology for creating a polymer self-leveling floor is complex and time-consuming, especially if we are talking about 3D coverage.

Specialists involved in the creation of polymer floors must have experience not only in pouring this type of solution, but also in other related construction work.

Such a requirement is associated with the phased actions of the polymer self-leveling floor device, which also includes rough work with concrete.

A few years ago, polymer self-leveling flooring was used for pouring only in industrial buildings with high rates of mechanical or chemical stress.

Over time, the material has been upgraded.

The high quality of the coating and the outwardly attractive appearance have done their job, the polymer floor has found its application in civil engineering. More recently, an amazing technology has appeared that allows you to create a 3D coating.

Today, without resorting to the services of craftsmen, polymer self-leveling floors are created by the owners in their apartment with their own hands.

Before proceeding to the do-it-yourself self-leveling floors, it is worth getting acquainted with their types and purpose.

Types and features of self-leveling floors

On the this moment in the construction market, self-leveling floors of two types are in high demand: polyurethane and epoxy.

Polyurethane bulk coating - industrial floors that are used as floor surfaces in warehouses, hangars, production facilities.

They can also be used in car parks, food industry buildings and industrial refrigeration plants.

Industrial polymer floors are endowed with a high degree wear resistance, resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.

Due to its unique structure, industrial self-leveling floors can perfectly cope with deformation loads on the base.

Epoxy polymer floors (their other name is "liquid linoleum") - also have high strength characteristics and resistance to impact chemical substances.

In addition, epoxy bulk coatings are characterized by a smooth surface and a wide choice of colors.

The composition of the epoxy polymer material does not contain solvents, so that the coating does not emit any pungent odors.

This type of floor is used for do-it-yourself flooring in residential premises.

The 3D technology of creating a coating stands apart. So far, this innovation is affordable only for a person with an income above the average. V ordinary apartment or a simple private house, 3D coating is practically never found.

Preparation of the base for pouring the self-leveling floor

The technology of pouring a polymer coating provides for the following step-by-step actions:

preparation concrete base;
the device of the first - the main layer;
applying a second - decorative layer;
the third stage is the varnish layer.

If 3D creation technology is used, then such a drawing is created in a completely different way.

A properly prepared subfloor base is the key to obtaining a high-quality self-leveling surface.

As a rule, epoxy polymer coatings are applied to a concrete base, which is subject to the following requirements:

evenness of the plane, the complete absence of defects on the basis (cracks and recesses);
arrangement of waterproofing;
cleanliness of the coating, the absence of greasy oil stains;
humidity of the concrete base is not more than 4%;
the screed device is carried out on the basis of cement not lower than M 200.

Therefore, if the base of the floor leaves much to be desired, it is recommended to apply a new concrete screed, under which waterproofing material is laid with their own hands.

It will take several days for the base to ripen, after which you can proceed to its primer.

A carefully primed substrate should have a surface that visually resembles sandpaper, which will indicate its high adhesive properties and allow ease of application of the polymer solution.

Decor elements and a set of necessary tools

In addition, epoxy resin coatings are different from all other floor finishes. high level performance indicators, they are able to surprise and decorative properties.

Such floors allow you to create with your own hands an original surface that has not yet been used anywhere.

To do this, it is enough to stock up on decorative elements, which can be used as sea pebbles and small shells, coins or multi-colored buttons.

Subsequently, you can lay out a beautiful mosaic from them.

The floor covering is not limited to the above decoration method.

In some places, such a floor is designed in the form of an art system, which involves the use of stencils and the application of certain patterns with paints.

That is why the self-leveling floor can be safely called prominent representative decorative surfaces.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the 3D design technology. Of course, such a 3D coating is not cheap, but it's worth it.

Before installing a self-leveling floor, you must have the following set of tools and auxiliary materials at hand:

a container with a volume of about 30 liters for the preparation of the composition;
shoes with spikes (paint shoes), for movement on the treated surface;
a simple spatula, for use in hard-to-reach areas;
spatula squeegee, which, with the help of an adjustable gap, will evenly distribute the mixture;
whisk, drill with low speed;
aeration roller (with spikes), to rid the freshly laid layer of air bubbles.

Pouring a polymer self-leveling floor

The technology by which liquid linoleum is applied consists of two stages. At the first stage, the underlying layer is poured with their own hands, at the second, the front (finish) coating is applied.

This is how liquid linoleum is obtained.

The components of the first coating are two components: fine quartz sand and liquid epoxy polymer material.

The liquid polymer composition is distributed over the base in order to finally hide minor defects. In this case, the thickness of its layer should not exceed 1.5 mm.

Work begins to be carried out not earlier than the primer dries. It takes a day for the liquid layer to dry.

Using the level, determine the deviation of the floor plane.

If the thickness of the substrate at the highest point is about 2 mm, then an acceptable thickness of the epoxy layer at the lowest point is about 10 mm.

The finished liquid solution is distributed over the base with a metal spatula, focusing on the high point of the floor surface. The thickness in this case should not be more than declared.

The liquid solution in portions must be prepared quickly and according to the instructions, with a maximum use time of no more than 10 minutes.

It will take at least a day to polymerize the applied layer. If defects are found on the basis, then bulk linoleum clean with your own hands using abrasive materials.

After that, the process of applying the facial finish is repeated again.

At the next stage, they proceed to applying the finishing polymer layer.

Polymeric linoleum is poured onto the floor surface in strips, their thickness is leveled using a special tool called a squeegee.

In hard-to-reach areas in the apartment, a spatula is used to distribute the layer.

After the bulk linoleum is completely distributed over the base and covered the entire cultivated area, it is necessary to walk over the surface with a spiked roller with your own hands.

The technology involves the use of an aeration roller so that the thickness of the polymer layer gets rid of air bubbles that negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.

For the purpose of additional protection of the polymer coating, bulk linoleum in the apartment can be treated with wear-resistant varnish. The thickness of the coating does not matter in this case.

In rooms with large area do-it-yourself technology for applying a polymer self-leveling floor is slightly different from flooring in small spaces.

Before pouring linoleum, the base is divided into several sections using expansion joints.

After the epoxy floors are poured, expansion joints close up with a sealing agent specially created for self-leveling floors.

In conclusion, it is worth noting that, in addition to decorative functions, self-leveling polymer floors in an apartment have a lot of advantages, one of which is sufficient thickness.

Therefore, such coatings are ideal for the "warm floor" system, have high strength and practicality.

In addition, they are endowed with the ability to respond to temperature changes without changing the structure.

Floors made of such materials are vapor-permeable, which means that the polymer coating breathes.

After reading the article, you learned a lot about polymer self-leveling floors, which can be found in the apartment (even in the 3D version). But often industrial enterprises also choose a self-leveling floor.

Polymer floors have gained considerable popularity due to their excellent technical specifications and wonderful performance. Such a coating can be installed not only in industrial premises, but also in private houses and apartments. Making polymer floors with your own hands is not very easy, but if you clearly follow all the stages of work, you will definitely get high-quality smooth finish that will last for many years.

What base is suitable for pouring?

You can make a polymer floor covering with your own hands on almost any type of base. But each of them has its own device features:

Wooden base. To make a fill on a wooden floor, you first have to level it. Usually, an electric planer is used for this. If necessary, failed logs should be replaced, and all the gaps between them should be treated with adhesive;
Concrete base. If there are significant irregularities on the coating, before pouring a clean floor, it is necessary to make a screed. At the same time, the reliability of the polymer coating on concrete floor will always be higher than on a wooden base;
Tile. If necessary, the polymer composition can even be poured onto the tile. It must be well fixed, so before starting work, each of the tiles must be tapped. In order for the adhesion of the polymer mixture to the tile to be high, it is desirable to treat the base with emery.

Preparation of the wooden base

Of course, making a self-leveling coating is quite problematic, since you will have to do a lot of work to prepare the base for pouring the polymer.

First you need to make sure that the warping is even. Check this with the usual level. A tolerance of 4 mm is considered. To make polymer bulk floors with your own hands on a wooden base, you must:

Dismantle all skirting boards;
Clean off the old coating: varnish, paint, adhesive composition. For this you can use grinder. If you don't have one, use a regular spatula and metal brushes;
Be sure to take into account the humidity of the ceiling, it should not exceed 10%;
Find and process all defects: chips, dents, cracks and cracks. All existing flaws must be sanded with sandpaper;
Clean the base from construction debris and dust;
Then degrease the coating using scouring powders;
Next, treat the defects with special building compounds.

Preparing the concrete base

If you are going to mount the coating on a concrete base, you will have to perform the following preparatory steps:

Measure humidity, it should not be higher than 4%;
Then be sure to check the compressive strength of concrete, the indicator should be above 20 MPa;
If the concrete base was poured recently, it is possible to carry out work on the installation of the polymer mixture no earlier than after 25-28 days;
Remove the old covering from the floor;
Remove any contaminants from the surface: mastic, oil and glue stains, varnish and paint;
Clean the surface of debris;
Fill cracks and dents with building mix with resin;
Treat small cracks and crevices with adhesive;
Level the base with a grinder;
Then check the evenness of the floor using a level.

To level the surface, it is best to use leveling mixtures, which are made on the basis of special binders. And remember that any coating must be strong, dry, clean and solid, without any cracks. If you pour the polymer composition on a flexible base, the self-leveling floor will not last long.

Padding

Before you make a polymer floor with your own hands, be sure to prime the surface. This will increase the adhesion of the base to the polymer. To close all the pores on the coating, it is necessary to apply the primer several times. handle concrete surface best of all two-component mixtures with mineral fillers.

Priming rules:

The base must be impregnated with a primer in a well-ventilated area;
The composition should be applied with wide brushes or rollers;
The next layer of primer must be applied after the previous one has completely dried;
It is possible to pour the polymer mixture onto the base one day after pre-treatment of the floor with a primer.

Dilution of dry polymer mixture

Typically, polymer floor mixtures are divided into two components, which are in two containers. To dilute the composition, you need:

Take a deep container for mixing the components;
Mix the compositions according to the proportions indicated in the instructions;
To obtain a homogeneous mass, mix the emulsion well using a construction mixer;
Since the polymer begins to harden very quickly, it must be used immediately after dilution.

Important! Please note that during the mixing of the components, a reaction occurs, as a result of which heat is released. So that the quality of the self-leveling floor does not change, be sure to place the container with the composition in another container with cold water.

Filling the floor

Now you need to mount the bulk polymer coating on the floor. This process is very responsible, so try to clearly follow all the steps:

Pouring composition on small plot straighten it out immediately. To do this, use a doctor blade;
When you apply the emulsion, go over the surface with a spiked roller, then no air bubbles form on the floor;
The layer thickness should not be less than 1 mm, otherwise the surface will be fragile;
When the coating is completely dry (from several hours to several days), treat the surface with polyurethane varnish.

Important! To produce high-quality filling, it is desirable that there is no draft and temperature difference in the room. These factors can further affect the life of the coating. It is desirable that the temperature in the room was not lower than 10 degrees.

The video shows in more detail all the stages of the work on pouring the polymer floor.

The installation of a polymer coating is a labor-intensive process that requires quality performance all stages of work. If you manage to competently implement the entire range of work in compliance with the pouring technology, appearance The floor covering will not change even after prolonged use.

planning independent arrangement polymer floor, you need to remember that the work must be done with the highest quality so that the coating lasts as long as possible. The topic of today's article is the technology of pouring polymer floors, the procedure is complex and time-consuming.

Coating Features

Bulk polymer floor is the most common type of polyurethane and epoxy coatings, characterized by increased decorative properties.

The thickness of the fill in this case ranges between 2.5 mm and 5 mm. It is not advisable to make the layer thicker, because this will significantly increase costs, and the functional and decorative parameters of the floor will remain the same. Scope of application - residential and public buildings.

Types of self-leveling floors	Characteristics of self-leveling floors	Application
Thin layer floors	thickness 250-300 microns	Thin-layer coatings are used for industrial floors subjected to medium mechanical stress, protection of concrete floors from aggressive environments and dusting, giving a decorative appearance.
	thickness up to 4-5 mm, filling with sand by weight up to 50%	Self-leveling self-leveling floors are arranged in rooms with medium and high mechanical loads, where special, increased requirements are imposed on the floors. Such floors have a smooth surface (glossy or matte) with dirt-repellent properties, decorative, hygienic, easy to maintain, repairable.
Highly filled floors	thickness - 4-8 mm, filling with sand by weight - up to 85%	Highly filled floors suit in conditions with high humidity and extreme temperature conditions. These floors are characterized by particularly high impact and wear resistance. By properties they are close to polymer concretes.
Self-leveling, colorless epoxy	Density 1.10. The A:B ratio is 100:60. Life time 35 min Dry residue 100%.	A two-component, colorless, solvent-free epoxy system for high strength decorative topcoats.
General purpose epoxy filler	Density 1.50. The A:B ratio is 100:10. Lifetime 25 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Two-component, colored epoxy mortar for leveling and finishing polymeric coatings on concrete, both under other ESP® coatings and as a stand-alone coating.
Conductive epoxy grout	Density 1.65. Ratio A:B -100:10. Lifetime 20 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	Current-carrying device protective coatings on concrete bases in warehouse, production, installation and other premises with requirements for electrical conductivity.
Polyurethane floor	Density 1.45. The A:B ratio is 100:20. Life time 30 minutes. Min. application temperature +10. Dry residue 100%.	These coatings, which are based on a heterochain polymer, are rigid-elastic, that is, at high mechanical strength they have a sufficient resource of elasticity. They arrange polyurethane flooring in a wide variety of premises - industrial and industrial, residential and public, in children's and educational institutions, in parking lots and in freezers, etc. According to the layer thickness, the polyurethane floor can be thin-layer (up to 1 mm), self-leveling or quartz-filled, with increased resistance to abrasion and impact loads. The polyurethane coating can be given various special properties (anti-static, anti-slip).

Among the other advantages of polymer floors, it is worth highlighting:

wear resistance;
dustlessness;
immunity to aggressive chemical compounds;
a wide range of colors - the coating can be both colored and transparent;
no smell when laying;
the possibility of drawing 3D-drawings.

Note! The quasi-3D image is made possible by the decorative polyurethane component. In such cases, the floor is poured in two stages - first, the polymer mixture is poured, then, after it dries, it is applied top coat(More on this at the end of the article).

Due to the high aesthetic level, polymer floors allow you to create full-fledged compositions using marble chips or colored sand. The filling procedure has its own nuances, we will consider them in more detail.

Stage 1. Preparation

The arrangement of a self-leveling floor made of polymers begins with preparatory work.

wooden base

Step 1. First, the room is cleaned of debris and dust, furniture is removed, dismantled decorative elements(such as skirting boards, cornices).

Step 2. Then everything necessary for work is prepared. To remove small debris, you can use a vacuum cleaner, and to remove glue and remnants of the old coating - grinder. By the way, the reliability and durability of the future floor largely depends on the quality of cleaning.

Step 3. Next is preliminary preparation grounds. At the same time, it is very important what material was used for the previous coating, because if it is, for example, a tree, then the base should be pre-sanded, all cracks puttied, treated with a degreasing compound - all these measures will improve the adhesion of the polymer to wooden planks. For degreasing, you can use gasoline, acetone or any other organic solvent.

If there are no problems with the disposal of solvent residues, a surfactant or KM alkali solution can be added. Although today you can buy special means for degreasing wood (for example, Mellerud), which simultaneously protect the surface from fungus formation.

Step 4. The moisture content of the floor is measured using a moisture meter. It should not exceed 10%, otherwise the polymer fill will come out of poor quality.

The concrete floor is prepared for pouring in a slightly different way.

Step 1. The moisture content of concrete is estimated, if it is above 4%, then the surface is dried. To determine the humidity (in the absence of a moisture meter), you can use one old method: a rubber mat is placed and pressed tightly on the floor, and if the surface under it has not changed color after 24 hours, then the base is ready for pouring.

Moisture meter for concrete floor

Step 2. The compressive strength of the floor is also checked (the norm is 20 MPa and above). To do this, a chisel installed perpendicular to the surface is struck with a hammer. If the concrete did not crumble, and the chisel left barely noticeable traces, then the strength of the base is within acceptable limits.

Step 3. The presence of waterproofing is checked. If it is not there, then further work on creating a self-leveling floor is impossible, because the concrete will begin to flake off, which is especially important in the bathroom or kitchen.

Moreover, with poor-quality insulation, moisture will rise through the capillaries in the concrete coating to the polymer layer and sooner or later destroy it.

Note! Otherwise preparations for a concrete base are practically no different from those for a wooden base.

If the polymer floor will be poured onto the tile, then its voidness is first checked (it may appear after the tile adhesive dries). All components that have lagged behind the surface must be removed, and the voids formed must be puttied.

After that, the surface is degreased.

Stage 2. Level difference

This concept is used to denote the difference in height between the highest and lowest points of the floor surface. If the difference is 0.5-2.5 cm, then before applying the primer, the floor is poured with a mounting leveling mixture (sand and polymeric self-leveling mixture in a ratio of 1: 2). A trowel is used to apply the mixture.

If the difference exceeds 2.5 cm, then the surface will need to be filled with a corrective mixture (sand with cement in a ratio of 2: 1).

Note! In both cases, instead of building mixtures, you can use a special leveling solution intended for this thickness.

Stage 3. Materials and tools

After preparing the surface, you need to take care of everything you need. For work you will need:

polymer leveling mixture;
deep penetration primer mixture;
putty knife;
building level;
doctor blade;
electric drill with mixer attachment;
needle roller;
container for preparing the solution.

Stage 4. Primer

For applying the primer layer, it is better to use a roller. If the surface is porous, then the primer is applied in several layers and after each of them a short pause is made to dry the mixture.

Here are the main functions of priming:

improving the spreading of the polymer composition;
improved adhesion to the base;
preventing air bubbles.

If the floor will be poured in several layers, then the primer must be applied before each of them.

Note! In a room with a high level of humidity, the primer layer is covered with a waterproof composition.

You also need to remember that priming compounds are toxic, so you should take care of it in advance good ventilation premises. Moreover, the temperature should not be allowed to drop - if it drops below +15 ° C, then the adhesion efficiency of the primer will noticeably deteriorate.

A minimum of 24 hours is required for the primed surface to dry completely.

Stage 5. Thermal compensation

One of essential elements filler floor - a thermal expansion joint, which should be applied around the entire perimeter of the room. For this, they take wooden slats(required from hardwood). These seams will prevent deformation of the floor during significant temperature changes.

Stage 6. Solution preparation

The preparation of the solution must be taken seriously, since the poor quality of the fill will hopelessly ruin the polymer coating. It is characteristic that after preparation the solution must be poured as soon as possible, because it solidifies in a few minutes.

Note! Humidity in the room during pouring should be no more than 70%, otherwise moisture will condense on the surface.

All components are poured into the container in the ratio specified in the instructions for the polymer mixture. To avoid too rapid heating of the solution, the container can be placed in another, larger one, filled with cold water.

All components are mixed with an electric drill operating at low speed (no more than 400 rpm) until a homogeneous mass is obtained. To determine the readiness of the solution, you can use one simple method:

a small ring is cut out of the deodorant cap and placed on a flat surface (for example, a piece of sheet steel);
the ring is filled with a solution and rises;
with a uniform spread of the solution into a spot with a diameter of 3 cm, you can start pouring.

Note! If the mixture is too thick, then it will not be able to level out qualitatively, and if it is too liquid, then you will need to add a little more dry polymer.

Stage 7. Filling the polymer floor

Do-it-yourself polymer floors are poured in the same way as ordinary self-leveling ones.

Step 1. The first portion of the solution is poured along the wall farthest from the entrance with a strip 45 cm wide. Then, for better distribution, the solution is leveled with a spatula.

Note! The whole room is poured immediately, otherwise there will be drops.

Step 2. After leveling, the surface is rolled with a needle roller - this is necessary to remove air.

Step 3. After that, a new strip of solution is poured and leveled. The procedure is repeated until the entire room is filled.

Step 4. 48 hours after pouring, a polyurethane coating is applied. For the entire drying period, the floor must be protected from the sun, drafts and temperature fluctuations.

Note! If a "warm floor" is used to heat the room, then the first start of heating can be carried out only seven days after pouring. In doing so, you need to start with room temperature, gradually increasing it - by about 2-3? C per day.

Also read the article on our website - do-it-yourself jellied floor.

There are two ways to create a decorative layer:

put the finished image in advance;
make a drawing on the cover.

In the first case, you need acrylic paints resistant to prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation. It's more simple and cheap way, because today you can purchase the image you like in the form of a printout on a plotter (in this case, a banner fabric is taken for the base). When arranging, the fabric is covered with a thermally insulating vinyl film to increase the operational life.

The dimensions of the image should exceed the dimensions of the room, because it is always easier to cut the fabric than to glue it.

Video - 3D floors

The technology for creating a 3D image is as follows.

Step 1. First, the base is carefully primed. For this, the same leveling solution is used, but diluted with water just enough so that its concentration is halved. It will take a day to polymerize the primer layer.

Step 2. The image is glued to the primer and rolled with a dry, clean roller. It is characteristic that you can only move on the floor in special studded shoes.

Step 3. A transparent polymer layer 4-5 mm thick is applied. This happens in the same way as described above. After half an hour, the fill dries up and can be treated with a transparent varnish.

The complete readiness of the polymer floor for operation is determined by the drying of the varnish.

Video - Pouring polymer floors

The polymeric bulk floor is the finishing floor covering consisting of polymeric materials. In other words, it is a seamless polymer membrane that is applied to the screed or cleaned concrete slab. Such a polymer self-leveling floor has increased wear resistance and at the same time well protects concrete from destruction. This flooring is a sought-after novelty in modern construction which has already earned considerable prestige.
Bulk floor - an ideal replacement for the usual parquet, tile, linoleum or laminate

The color palette of a self-leveling self-leveling floor can be quite diverse. In the catalogs you will find 10 - 15 standard colors that a polymer self-leveling floor can have, but in reality you can get exactly the color you need. This is achieved by simply adding various organic dyes to the building mixture.

The use of self-leveling floor

in apartments residential buildings
in industrial premises
in public, commercial establishments (parking lots, shopping centers, clubs, offices, restaurants, etc.)
in rooms with food industry
for sports facilities, stadiums

Depending on the scope and conditions of use, specialized polymer coatings are used.

Self-leveling floors are made of high quality building materials, which are extremely convenient and easy to prepare and arrange

We are ready to produce for you three types of self-leveling floor:

glossy (create a feeling of water on the surface)
semi-matte (slightly duller than glossy)
matte (virtually non-reflective)

Screed floor options:

Self-leveling floor type No. 3 is an author's design self-leveling floor, has a total coating thickness of 3 mm and includes the following types of components:

The first component: the primer Europoll is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand(0.3 - 0.8 mm fractions).
The second layer is the basic core (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is decorative. This layer can be filled with various decorative elements, fabrics with any images, self-adhesive vinyl films.
The fourth layer is the finishing element (Europol NEW Finish).

Self-leveling floor type No. 5 is a designer polymer self-leveling floor with a total coating thickness of three millimeters and includes the following components:

First component: Europoll primer is applied to the prepared concrete base, followed by sanding with quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm).
The second layer is the fundamental base element (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is design (Evropoll Ral-Base).

Floor Type #8 is a stone carpet (smoothed pebble/compacted), has a coating thickness of 6-8 mm, includes the following types of components:

First layer: Evropoll primer is applied to the prepared base, followed by the addition of dry quartz sand (0.3 - 0.8 mm fraction).
The second layer is the fundamental base (Evropoll EP-Base).
The third layer is sealing (Evropoll NEW Finish).
The fourth component is the finishing one (Europol NEW Finish).

Polyurethane or epoxy floors?

To figure out which coverage you need, you need to compare their positive and negative characteristics.

Epoxy self-leveling floor contains in its composition epoxy resins. It is characterized by high strength, rigidity, hardness and has the following features:

Polyurethane self-leveling floor characterized by elasticity, flexibility and impact resistance. Has the following features:

resistant to constant mechanical stress
has increased wear resistance
not afraid of ultraviolet rays (does not lose its color, does not fade)
it is made exclusively in a two-component composition, which, after mixing, begins to harden quickly (this dictates the accuracy and efficiency of work)
applied to the surface only at a positive temperature (at least + 5 degrees)
does not emit odor when applied
as a minus - it penetrates well into the pores of the concrete surface

endowed with high tensile strength
resistant to prolonged vibrations, to mechanical stress
at direct impact ultraviolet light, a slight yellowish tint may form on the surface
can be one-component and two-component
impregnation depth on concrete is from 2 mm
slow curing (no need for quick application to the surface)
when applying, it is necessary to use protective respirators, as harmful vapors are released
the floor is applied at a positive temperature

Features of the polymer self-leveling floor

High wear resistance to abrasion, that is, such a floor is not susceptible to the effects of various grains of sand, dust
Elasticity of the coating, allowing the floor to withstand significant temperature fluctuations
Resistant to vibration, possible shock. Self-leveling floors will perfectly cope with all physical activity and at the same time does not lose its original decorative effect.
Durability and reliability. If you choose the right type of self-leveling coating and lay it according to all the rules, then the floor can last more than 20 years.
Floor seamlessness - provides hollow protection and moisture resistance of the concrete base
Resistant to caustic chemicals
Hygiene (does not contribute to the development of pathogenic microflora)
Environmental friendliness (does not release harmful substances into the air) chemical compounds)
Easy to clean, suitable for machine cleaning with active detergents
Attractive appearance, variety of colors and aesthetics (thanks to the use decorative materials)
Fire safety (in case of possible ignition of the room, the floor has moderate toxicity and low flammability)
The floor ensures the absence of sparks, which allows it to be installed where work with explosive substances is carried out
Maintainability - allows you to fully or partially restore the coating
Quick and easy installation (works may take 1 - 4 days)
Provides a perfectly flat surface

Self-leveling floor technology

1) Preparatory stage - leveling and preparation of the base

Any self-leveling floor requires a perfectly flat concrete floor surface. Horizontal deviations should not exceed 2 mm. If possible, the base should be made of durable concrete(minimum M200) or sand concrete

The concrete base must be completely dry and must not have any contamination on the surface (various fats, oil stains, any previously applied old coatings, etc.). All impurities are removed by milling, grinding

If the leveling of the surface is not effective, then a new screed must be made.

2) Priming of the concrete base and sanding with quartz sand

The finished soil is poured over the surface of the base and evenly distributed with a roller. If the concrete base non-uniformly absorbs the soil, then after the first layer, highly absorbent areas are additionally primed. After the first layer of the primer polymerizes, a second tread layer is applied, at the time of application of which dry quartz sand (fractions 0.3 - 0.6 mm) is evenly applied on top

3) Preparation, application of the finishing layer

For the manufacture of a self-leveling self-leveling floor, a specialized dry mix or two dry components are diluted in a certain amount cold water(if there are two components, then the first one is first diluted, and then the second one gradually begins to pour in). The entire composition is continuously stirred by an electric mixer for two to three minutes (direct and reverse rotation is activated). As a result, a homogeneous fluid mass without lumps should be formed, which must be calmly settled for two to three minutes so that the air entrained by mixing can escape. After that, the mixture is evenly distributed over the surface and waiting for it to completely harden.

The thickness of the overall floor covering should vary between 3 and 8 mm, depending on the type of self-leveling floor chosen.

The final step, but not mandatory, may be the application of a protective polyurethane varnish, which can emphasize the surface or make it matte by removing light glare

Distinctive properties of a decorative self-leveling floor

Installation of a decorative self-leveling floor is carried out with the help of a master, designer and decorative artist. The embodiment of the design idea is a fundamental property in this type of coating. The floor should ideally blend into the interior of the room. It can contain various special effects. The thickness of the coating in this case can reach up to several centimeters.

Decoration options and ways to change the shade of the self-leveling floor:

Adding Chips

It is rather difficult to find a more modern and unpretentious coating than polymer self-leveling floors in modern construction. This technology has been successfully tested at industrial facilities and reached the private sector.

The general process of their device requires knowledge of the technology of work, compliance with safety regulations and care when mixing components.

Specifications and features of the coating

Polymer self-leveling floor is a modern finishing coating based on polymer compounds that provide the final material whole line unique properties. The use of polymers in construction is not uncommon, but it is their inclusion in liquid and bulk formulations, allowed to significantly increase the strength, shock and decorative qualities.

Among the advantages of polymer floors, one can single out a high service life, which, with correct styling and compliance with the rules of use, is more than 15-20 years. The coating is resistant to high and low temperatures, chemicals and various solvents.

In the process of wear, the polymer floor does not generate dust, does not emit harmful substances, is not subject to burning and transmission of an open flame. The elasticity of some types allows the use of such floors in industries and places with the risk of falling heavy objects. Hygiene, environmental friendliness, ease of cleaning and maintenance allows you to successfully stack in medical and children's institutions, in household and food industries.

The polymer base can have both a glossy and shiny surface, and an absolutely matte or colored one.

Monolithicity and absence of seams when installing polymer self-leveling floors excludes the formation of harmful fungi and the very ingress of moisture under the coating. After laying and polymerization, the floor is completely suitable for machine cleaning using any detergents.

The disadvantages of such a floor include the technology of its device, or rather, the strict observance of all technological stages. Quality control must be carried out at each batch and filling of the liquid mixture. The main drawback is the lack of the possibility of sane repairs.

That is, it is more or less possible to carry out a partial repair of the external coating, but to eliminate all cracks and scratches, it will be necessary to dismantle and fill the new floor.

Types of coating and composition selection for the private sector

The general classification of polymer-based floors is based on the type or composition of the coating. The substance included in the composition largely determines the strength, elasticity and wear-resistant qualities of the floor after pouring.

The main types of compositions used for flooring

Polymer self-leveling floors are divided into the following types:

Epoxy - the traditional and most common type of self-leveling floor. The final solution is obtained by mixing two components - a colored epoxy base with a hardener. Epoxy flooring is characterized by high wear resistance, is not afraid of exposure to moisture and temperatures.
Polyurethane - a floor with high elasticity, wear resistance, high resistance to point tension and impact. It is mainly used for laying in industries and places with an increased risk of damage to the base. In some cases, the device may wooden surface or bases made of wooden floors.
Epoxy urethane - a coating that has taken useful qualities two main types. It has high abrasion resistance and is mainly used in the laying of footpaths, transport routes, etc.
Cement-polyurethane - used in areas where exposure to aggressive environments in the form of chemicals is possible, high temperatures or a couple. The structure of the floor effectively protects the surface, preventing substances from destroying the supporting base.
Methyl methacrylate is the most durable and frost-resistant variety. It is applied to the device of a self-leveling floor on open spaces, in places with a lot of rainfall and natural irritants. It has a difficult styling technology and fast polymerization.

Depending on the outer layer, the polymer coating can be matte, glossy, transparent, rough or decorative surface. Perhaps a combination of the type of transparent-glossy or rough-matte surface.

For devices in apartments and private houses, polymer epoxy and are usually used. The trains fully meet the requirements for the created load, possible traffic intensity and cost.

Choosing a polymer floor and possible costs

When choosing a polymer floor covering, one should proceed from the technical equipment of the room, brand concrete pavement, humidity level and required strength properties.

For example, a decorative epoxy-based polymer self-leveling floor better fit for a bathroom or toilet, garage or covered parking near the house, that is, for rooms with high humidity and possible exposure to chemicals.

For laying in a workshop or playground near the house, it is better to choose solutions based on polyurethane, since such a composition, after hardening, copes better with shock loading and UV exposure.

A complete set of products for the preparation of a self-leveling floor device from a domestic manufacturer

If we proceed from a comparison of a domestic or foreign manufacturer, then first of all, one should focus on the price / quality ratio. No one will argue that most foreign companies offer a higher quality product, but the prices for their compositions are at a completely different level.

Domestic manufacturers, such as KrasCo or TeoChem, produce quite competitive mixtures that have proven themselves only with better hand. In terms of price to quality ratio, the composition of these companies is much more profitable, since operation for private purposes does not provide for the creation of such large loads that these floors can withstand.

The cost of a polymer self-leveling floor of both types is approximately the same and depends more on the pouring technology, the thickness and method of laying the underlying layer, and the compositions for preparing the base.

On average, the consumption of a polymer self-leveling floor per 1 m2 is in the region of 300-500 g for the underlying, 1.2-1.7 kg for the leveling and front layer. This consumption is valid for a thickness of 1 mm when applied to a concrete base treated with primers.

Two-component polyurethane composition from a Russian company

For comparison, we have collected data in a table that shows the approximate ratio of prices for both types of self-leveling floors from different manufacturers.

General surface preparation and necessary tools

The general technology for pouring and installing self-leveling polymeric floors consists of preparing the supporting base, checking its quality, treating the surface with a primer, applying a base or underlying layer, pouring and leveling the finish coat.

For grouting cracks, seams and other deep damage, it is better to use only recommended mixtures from the manufacturer.

Preparatory actions for working with the base will include the following steps:

removal of old cladding and flooring;
cleaning of construction debris, cleaning from dirt and dust;
elimination of severe damage to the concrete pavement and deep cracks.

Dismantling old finish performed with the use of hand tools and improvised accessories. Cleaning of construction debris is carried out in dense bags and taken to a landfill. In the presence of greasy spots, drops of paint or oil use solvents and carefully clean the sags.

To carry out further work and arrange the polymer self-leveling floors with your own hands, you will need to check the base for the degree of moisture content of the concrete, check its strength and make a visual inspection for serious damage.

The degree of humidity or residual moisture of concrete for new screeds is checked with special equipment. If it is not available, you can check in a simple way- Polyethylene material is glued to the surface of the concrete base.

Paint steppers are used for free movement through liquid solutions

If after a day moisture has settled on the film, and the floor is wet, then it is necessary to dry the surface for some time and repeat the check. Otherwise, you can perform a strength test with a sclerometer and inspect.

In the presence of deep cracks, shells and potholes, they are cleaned, primed and grouted with putty from the manufacturer of the bulk polymer coating or with a composition according to his recommendations.

The final stage of preparation is to check the level of differences. This can be done using the usual bubble level with appropriate markings. Tolerances should not exceed 2-3 mm per 2-2.5 m of the surface. More exact value indicated on the packaging of the polymer floor.

Tool for spreading the solution on the surface of the base

To carry out further finishing work, it will be necessary to prepare two clean rollers with a pile of 12-16 mm, paint brushes and a needle roller, a metal doctor blade and a steel spatula up to half a meter wide. When mixing and mixing the components, it is recommended to use a drill with a nozzle or a mixer with a power of at least 1 kW.

As personal protection be sure to use gloves, goggles and overalls. For some floors, the use of a respirator will be required, as they contain volatile components that evaporate during polymerization.

General sequence for two-component mixtures

Performing further work on applying a primer and coating with your own hands will require preparation working area, where the mixing and preparation of the solution will be performed.

It is better to close the floor surface plastic wrap, prepare protective clothing and solvent in case the liquid mixture comes into contact with the skin or spills.

It is advisable to entrust the preparation of the mixture to a separate person who will mix the components while the other applies and levels the mixture.

Do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floors - priming and applying the base layer

Do-it-yourself polymer self-leveling floors are made using the following technology:

The flooring technology may have a slightly different look when using solutions that involve the use of quartz sand, applying more layers or laying decorative elements.

For example, some compositions involve sprinkling the surface with cleaned sand already at the stage of priming the base. Others may contain an additional sanding step to improve adhesion, etc.