How best to make underfloor heating in the house. Warm water floors: wiring diagrams in a private house, technical recommendations and do-it-yourself connection

Now many residents of private houses are installing for the main or additional heating water heated floor. It has a lot of advantages: it increases comfort, heats the room evenly, does not require additional energy costs (because it works from one boiler with radiators). The instructions in our article will allow you to install water-heated floors, even without experience. However, before that, it is worth studying all the nuances.

Best of all, the warm water floor system is combined with laying under and tile.

• First, both materials are strong and durable.
• Secondly, they do not distinguish harmful substances when heated.
• And thirdly, heating perfectly complements the tile (the material itself is cold), and you can even walk on it barefoot due to its high heat capacity.

Of course, underfloor heating can also be done under linoleum, PVC tiles and even carpet, with a special mark.

But, for example, it makes no sense to heat the carpet, and the surface temperature must not exceed 31 ° C, according to SNiP 41-01-2003. Otherwise, it will provoke the release of harmful substances.

Installation in an apartment

Probably, many residents had the idea to independently connect “for free” water heated floors to the central heating system or hot water supply. And some even do so, but in most cases it is prohibited by local law.

For example, in Moscow, there is a government decree No. 73-PP dated February 8, 2005, in Appendix No. 2 it is clearly written about the prohibition of conversion public systems water supply for floor heating device.

Breaking the rules in best case, you can get a fine at the first visit to the plumbers. And at worst, the risk of leaving neighbors without heating.

In some regions, the ban does not apply, but an examination is required to connect in order not to disrupt the system.

In general, from a technical point of view, such options are possible, but only if a separate pumping and mixing unit is connected and the outlet pressure in the system is maintained.

Note! If in apartment building If there is a jet pump (elevator), then metal-plastic and polypropylene pipes cannot be used.

Floor installation methods

There are several ways to arrange a warm water floor.

• The most popular and reliable of them is a concrete screed. Unlike electrical types, 16 mm pipes cannot be hidden in tile adhesive, and it will not work. Therefore, a screed is poured at least 3 cm above the pipes.
• The second way is laying pipes in the cut out grooves of polystyrene foam. The grooves are made by hand, pipes are laid inside, then the screed is poured.
• The next option is often used in houses with wooden floors, although it requires a lot of labor - this is laying in wooden grooves. To do this, boards are stuffed on the floor, which create a gutter of the desired shape for laying.

Types of pipes used

Three types of pipes are suitable for a warm water floor.

• Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene (PEX-EVOH-PEX) are inconvenient to use, because it is difficult to give them desired shape(they straighten when heated). But they are not afraid of liquid freezing and are maintainable.
• Metal pipes - best option: low price, ease of installation, stable shape.
• Copper pipes are expensive; when used in a screed, they must be covered with a protective layer to prevent alkaline exposure.

Calculation of a warm water floor

Before installation and purchase of materials, it is imperative to calculate the underfloor heating. To do this, draw a diagram with contours, which will then come in handy when conducting repair work to know the position of the pipes.

• If you are sure that furniture or plumbing will always stand in a certain place, pipes are not laid in this place.
• The length of the circuit with a diameter of 16 mm must not exceed 100 m (maximum for 20 mm is 120 m), otherwise the pressure in the system will be bad. Thus, each circuit approximately occupies no more than 15 square meters. m.
• The difference between the length of several circuits should be small (less than 15 m), that is, they should all be of uniform length. Large rooms, respectively, are divided into several circuits.
• The optimum pipe spacing is 15 cm when using good thermal insulation. If in winter there are often frosts below -20, then the step is reduced to 10 cm (only possible at the outer walls). And in the north you can not do without additional radiators.
• With a laying step of 15 cm, the consumption of pipes is approximately 6.7 m for each square of the room, when laying every 10 cm - 10 m.

The graph shows the dependence of the flux density on the average coolant temperature. Dotted lines indicate pipes with a diameter of 20 mm, and solid lines - 16 mm.

The graph shows data that is valid only when using a cement-sand screed with a thickness of 7 cm, covered with tiles. If the thickness of the screed is increased, for example, by 1 cm, then the heat flux density decreases by 5-8%.

• To find the flux density, the sum of the heat loss of the room in watts is divided by the pipe laying area (the distance from the walls is subtracted).
• The average temperature is calculated as the average value at the inlet to the circuit and the outlet from the return.

The optimum temperature at the inlet and outlet should not differ by more than 5-10 degrees. The maximum temperature of the heat carrier must not exceed 55°C.

According to the above diagram, you can only perform a rough calculation and make the final adjustment due to the mixing unit and thermostats. For accurate design, be sure to contact professional heating engineers.

Heated floor cake

The technology of laying a warm water floor consists of several layers, which are laid in a certain sequence. The total thickness of the cake is 8-14 cm, the load on the floors is up to 300 kg / sq. m.

If the base is a concrete slab:

• waterproofing;
• insulation;
• reinforcing mesh;
• water floor heating pipe;
• coupler.

For waterproofing, it is permissible to use ordinary polyethylene film or special materials. The damper tape is made from cut strips of thermal insulation 1-2 cm thick, or they buy a ready-made version with a self-adhesive base.
The choice of insulation depends on several factors: region, base material. For example, for floors on the ground, extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 5 cm (optimally 10) is also used, and if there is a warm basement under the floor of the first floor, then thinner options from 3 cm can be used.

The main purpose of the insulation is to direct the heat from the heating up and prevent large heat losses.

If the base is floors on the ground:

• bulk soil 15 cm;
• crushed stone 10 cm;
• sand 5 cm;
• rough screed;
• waterproofing;
• damper tape around the perimeter;
• extruded polystyrene foam not less than 5 cm;
• reinforced screed with heat carriers.

Preparatory layers under rough screed it is important to carefully tamp in layers. With a dense compaction of the base and the use of extruded polystyrene foam, it will not be necessary to make a rough screed.

Installation of a warm floor

Let's say a good foundation has already been prepared: a flat concrete slab or a backfill layer without strong drops. The differences should not exceed 7 mm when checking with a two-meter rail. If there are irregularities, they can be covered with sand.

Waterproofing

Someone lays waterproofing under the bottom of the insulation, someone, on the contrary, upstairs, and some use it both here and there.
If extruded polystyrene foam is used, it practically does not need waterproofing, so its position is not so critical. But it will not allow cement milk to penetrate between the seams of the insulation and go into the slab and will additionally retain moisture from below.
If you fix it to the bottom of the insulation, then you can fix the pipes on the warm floor directly to the insulation. If the waterproofing is laid up, then laying the mounting grid will be required to fix the pipes.

We lay waterproofing with an overlap on the walls by 20 cm, and on top of each other. We glue the joints with adhesive tape for sealing.

damper tape

If you bought a finished tape, just glue it around the perimeter. It usually has a thickness of 5-8 mm and a height of 10-15 cm. The height should be above the fill level, the excess is cut off with a knife. If the tape is made by hand, then be sure to glue or screw it with self-tapping screws to the wall.

The linear expansion of concrete is 0.5 mm per meter when heated to 40°C.

insulation

Sheet insulation for a warm water floor is laid with offset joints so that it is tightly connected.

Reinforcement

The first layer of reinforcing mesh is usually laid on a heater and used as a base for fastening contours and uniform distribution surface heat. The grids are tied together with wire. Pipes are attached to the grid on nylon clamps.

The diameter of the mesh bars is 4-5 mm, and the cell size is depending on the pipe laying step, for easy fastening.

In addition, it is imperative to lay reinforcement on top of the pipes, because even when using mesh from below, it will have almost no effect if it lies at the very bottom. Or, during pouring, put the grid on stands, creating a gap.

Pipe Fixation Methods

Water heated floor can be laid in several ways, we list them.

• Clamp made of polyamide. Used for quick fastening of pipes to the mounting grid. Consumption - about 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Mounting wire made of steel. Also used for mounting to the grid, the flow rate is exactly the same.
• Stapler and clamps. Suitable for quick fixing of pipes to thermal insulation. The consumption of clamps is 2 pieces per 1 m.
• Fixing track. It is a U-shaped PVC strip, which serves as a base for laying 16 or 20 mm pipes into it. Attaches firmly to the floor.
• Mats for a warm water floor made of polystyrene. A pipe is laid in the middle of the grooves between the posts.
• Distribution aluminum plate. Used when installing in wooden floors, reflects and evenly distributes heat over the surface.

Application different kind pipe fasteners

Pipe laying

The pipes are laid with an indent from the walls of 15-20 cm. It is highly desirable to make each circuit from a single pipe without welding, and their length should not exceed 100 m. The step between the pipes at the walls is 10 cm, closer to the center - 15 cm.

The scheme of laying a warm floor is different, for example, a spiral or a snake. At the outer walls, they try to make the laying step more often or draw a contour from the feed next to the cold walls. An example of a scheme for enhanced heating of external walls is shown in the photo, this option is best used in cold regions:



In other cases, the contours are usually laid in a spiral (snail), this is a universal option.

In places with a large accumulation of pipes, in order to avoid overheating of the surface, some of them are covered with a heat-insulating tube.

Metal-plastic 16 mm and 20 mm can be easily bent by hand, without the use of special tools. In order to evenly bend the pipes with an angle of small radius and at the same time prevent it from cracking, the corners are bent in several passes (arm interceptions).
Approximately 5-6 interceptions will be needed at an angle of 90 °. This means, at first, resting with your thumbs, make a slight bend, then slightly shift your hands in the direction of the bend and repeat the actions.

The presence of kinks on the pipes in places of sharp turns is unacceptable.

Polypropylene pipes are much more difficult to bend because they are springy. Therefore, they are heated or made to bend, but in the case of a warm floor, they are simply attached to the grid, making the bends less sharp.

We begin the installation of a water-heated floor by connecting the first end of the pipe to the distribution manifold, and after laying the room, the return line (the second end) is immediately connected.

Connecting circuits

In most cases, the circuits are connected through a distribution node. It has several functions: increasing the pressure in the system, adjusting the temperature, uniform supply to several circuits, combining with radiators.

There are many schemes for connecting to the boiler, which we wrote about in an article about: manual adjustment, with weather automatics and auto-adjustment using servo drives and sensors.

euroconus fitting

Pipes are connected to the manifold using Eurocone clamp fittings.

Crimping

When you have completed the installation of all circuits, be sure to conduct a pneumatic test of the system for tightness. To do this, pressure is applied using a compressor. For testing, a small household compressor with a pressure of more than 6 bar is suitable. The pressure in the system is brought to 4 bar and left for the entire time until the system is started.

Since air molecules are much smaller than water molecules, even a small depressurization can be detected. In addition, the water can freeze if you do not have time to turn on the heating, and nothing will happen to the air.

Underfloor heating screed

Filling the screed is done only after the installation of all circuits and hydraulic tests. It is recommended to use concrete not lower than M-300 (B-22.5) with crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm. Minimum Thickness 3 cm above the pipe is done not only to obtain the desired strength, but also to evenly distribute heat over the surface. Weight 1 sq. m. screed with a thickness of 5 cm is up to 125 kg.

With a screed thickness of more than 15 cm or with high loads, an additional calculation of the thermal regime is required.

With an increase in the thickness of the screed, it takes more time to heat it up to a certain temperature after switching on, and the inertia of the system also increases. The lower the thermal conductivity of the screed, the higher the temperature of the coolant will need to be made.

expansion joints

Separation examples large room into zones

The absence or incorrect position of the expansion gaps is the most common cause screed destruction.

Shrink joints are made in the following cases:

• The premises are over 30 sq. m.;
• walls have a length of more than 8 m;
• the length and width of the room differ by more than 2 times;
• over expansion joints of structures;
• the room is too curved.

To do this, a damper tape is laid around the perimeter of the seams. At the seam, the reinforcing mesh must be divided. The expansion gap must be 10 mm thick at the base. The upper part is treated with a sealant. If the room has custom shape, it needs to be broken down into more simple elements rectangular or square shape.




If pipes pass through expansion joints in a screed, in these places they are laid in a corrugated pipe, 30 cm of corrugations in each direction (according to SP 41-102-98 - 50 cm on each side). It is recommended not to separate one circuit with expansion joints; supply and return pipes must pass through it.

Correct passage of contours through technological seams

When laying tiles on expansion joints, the likelihood of its peeling off increases due to different expansion of adjacent tiles. To avoid this, the first part is laid on tile adhesive, and the second part is attached to an elastic sealant.

Partial profile expansion joints can be used for additional separation. They are made with a trowel, 1/3 of the thickness. After the concrete has hardened, they are also sealed with sealant. If pipes pass through them, they are also protected by corrugation.

Cracks in the screed

A fairly common occurrence is the appearance of cracks on the screed after drying. This may provoke whole line reasons:

• low density insulation;
• poor compaction of the solution;
• lack of plasticizers;
• too thick screed;
• lack of shrinkage seams;
• too fast drying of concrete;
• incorrect proportions of the solution.

It's very easy to avoid them:

• insulation must be used with a density above 35-40 kg / m3;
• the screed solution must be plastic when laying and with the addition of fiber and plasticizer;
• in large rooms you need to make shrinkage seams (see below);
• also, you can’t let the concrete set quickly, for this it is covered plastic wrap the next day (for a week).

Screed mortar

For a warm floor, it is imperative to use a plasticizer to increase the elasticity and strength of concrete. But you need to use special types of non-air-entraining plasticizers for underfloor heating.

Without experience, it will not work to make a cement-sand screed for a warm floor without crushed stone / gravel, and the right branded DSP will cost more than factory-made concrete. Therefore, in order to avoid cracks due to a violation of the composition of the mortar, concrete with crushed stone is poured.

A solution of M-300 from cement grade M-400, washed sand and gravel is made in the following proportions.

• Mass composition C: P: W (kg) = 1: 1.9: 3.7.
• Volumetric composition per 10 liters of cement P: W (l) = 17:32.
• From 10 liters of cement, 41 liters of mortar will be obtained.
• The volumetric weight of such concrete M300 will be 2300-2500 kg / m3 (heavy concrete)

There is also another option using granite screenings instead of sand, the following elements were used for its preparation:

• 2 buckets of crushed stone with a fraction of 5-20 mm;
• water 7-8 liters;
• superplasticizer SP1 400 ml of solution (1.8 liters of powder is diluted in 5 liters of hot water);
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 3-4 buckets of granite screenings with a fraction of 0-5 mm;
• bucket volume - 12 liters.

High-quality concrete should not release water during laying (delaminate). If everything is done correctly and the air temperature is 20 ° C, it should begin to set after 4 hours, and after 12 hours it will not leave marks from the heels.

After 3 days after pouring, the screed will gain half its strength, and will completely harden only after 28 days. It is not recommended to turn on the heating system until this moment.

Mounting on a wooden floor

Wood does not conduct heat as efficiently as concrete, but mounting on it is also feasible. For this, aluminum distribution plates are used. The pipes are laid in wooden grooves made by attaching pre-prepared boards.

For the installation of linoleum, carpet and other materials that require a flat surface, a leveling layer of chipboard, plywood or GVL is laid over the pipes. If parquet or laminate is used as a topcoat, the design of a warm floor can be slightly simplified without the use of a leveling layer.

When choosing plywood and chipboard, make sure that they have hygienic and thermomechanical parameters that allow them to be used with underfloor heating.

Prices for underfloor heating

The price of a warm water floor is formed from several components:

• cost of materials (pipes, insulation, fasteners, etc.);
• the cost of the pumping and mixing unit and the manifold;
• work on leveling the base and pouring the top layer of the screed;
• the cost of installing underfloor heating.

On average, the price of a water-heated floor during turnkey installation, together with all materials and work, will cost about 1,500-3,000 rubles per 1 sq. m.

Below is an approximate estimate for a house of 100 sq. m., but the prices for water-heated floors are highly dependent on the region, so it is best to drive in your data there and make an independent calculation. It does not take into account the costs of installation and purchase of radiators, a boiler, topcoat and screed.

Estimate for the installation of a water-heated floor system on the 1st floor.
№	Material name	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm	m2	96	227	21792
2	Mounting grid 150*150*4	m2	106	30	3180
3	Polyethylene film 250 microns	m2	105	40	4200
4	Metal-plastic pipe 16 mm	m.p.	700	39	27300
5	Damper tape from a substrate	m2	30	50	1500
6	Manifold Valtec 1″, 7 x 3/4″, Eurocone	PCS.	2	1600	3200
7	Manifold connection fitting (Euroconus) 16x2 mm	PCS.	14	115	1610
8	Pumping and mixing unit	PCS.	1	14500	14500
9	Dowels and screws	PCS.	300	1,5	450
10	mounting tape	m.p.	50	11	550
11	Other accessories for a warm water floor	poses	1	0	0
	Total by materials				78282
	Name of works	Unit rev.	Qty	Price	Sum
1	Rough coupler	m2	96	60	5760
2	Mounting the damper tape	m.p.	160	60	9600
3	Laying waterproofing	m2	100	60	6000
4	Installation grid laying	m2	110	150	16500
5	Pipe installation	m2	96	300	28800
6	System pressure test	m2	96	20	1920
	Total for jobs				68580
1	Total by materials				78282
2	Total for jobs				68580
3	Total				146862
	Transportation overhead			10%	14686
	In total, according to the estimate, the installation of a water-heated floor system is 1 floor.				161548

Installation of warm water floors is shown in the video:

In rooms heated using underfloor heating technology, the feeling is much more comfortable than with a traditional radiator system. When the floor is heated, the temperature is distributed in an optimal way: it is warmest for the feet, and at head level it is already cooler. There are two ways of heating: water and electric. The water one is more expensive to install, but cheaper to operate, so that's what they do more often. You can slightly reduce installation costs if you make a water-heated floor with your own hands. The technology is not the easiest, but it does not require encyclopedic knowledge.

Device and principle of operation

For water heating of a warm floor, a system of pipes is used through which the coolant circulates. Most often, pipes are poured into a screed, but there are dry installation systems - wooden or polystyrene. In any case, there is a large number of small cross-section pipes laid under the floor covering.

Where can you mount

Due to the large number of pipes, water heating is done mainly in private homes. The fact is that the heating system of high-rise buildings of early construction is not designed for this method of heating. It is possible to make a warm floor from heating, but there is a high probability that either you will be too cold, or your neighbors from above or below - depending on the type of power supply to the system. Sometimes the entire riser becomes cold: the hydraulic resistance of the water floor is several times higher than that of the radiator heating system and it can clog the movement of the coolant. For this reason, to achieve management company permission to install a warm floor is very difficult (installation without permission is an administrative offense).

The good news is that two systems have begun to be made in new buildings: one for radiator heating, the second for underfloor heating. In such houses, permission is not required: an appropriate system was developed taking into account the higher hydraulic resistance.

Organization principles

To understand what you need in order to make a water heated floor with your own hands, you need to understand what the system consists of and how it works.

Heat carrier temperature control

In order to feel comfortable on the floor, the temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40-45°C. Then the floor warms up to comfortable values ​​- about 28 ° C. Most of heating equipment cannot produce such a temperature: at least 60-65 ° C. Exception - condensation gas boilers. They show maximum efficiency at low temperatures. From their outlet, the heated coolant can be supplied directly to the pipes of the warm floor.

When using a boiler of any other type, a mixing unit is required. In it, the cooled coolant from the return pipeline is added to the hot water from the boiler. You can see the composition of this bond on the diagram for connecting a warm floor to a boiler.

The principle of operation is the following. The heated coolant comes from the boiler. It enters the thermostatic valve, which, when the temperature threshold is exceeded, opens the water admixture from the return pipeline. In the photo there is a jumper in front of the circulation pump. A two-way or three-way valve is installed in it. Open it and mix in the cooled coolant.

Mixed flow through circulation pump falls on the thermostat, which controls the operation of the thermostatic valve. When the set temperature is reached, the flow from the return is stopped, when it is exceeded, it opens again. This is how the temperature of the coolant of the water heated floor is adjusted.

Contour distribution

Next, the coolant enters the distribution comb. If a water heated floor is made in one small room(bathroom, for example), in which only one loop of pipes is laid, this node may not exist. If there are several loops, then it is necessary to somehow distribute the coolant between them, and then somehow collect it and send it to the return pipeline. This task is performed by a distribution comb or, as they are also called, a floor heating collector. In fact, these are two pipes - on the supply and return lines, to which the inputs and outputs of all underfloor heating circuits are connected. This is the easiest option.

If a warm floor is made in several rooms, then it is better to install a collector with the ability to adjust the temperature. First, in different rooms different temperatures are required: someone prefers +18°C in the bedroom, someone needs +25°C. Secondly, most often, the contours have different lengths, and they can transmit different amount heat. Thirdly, there are "internal" rooms - which have one wall facing the street, and there are corner ones - with two or even three outer walls. Naturally, the amount of heat in them should be different. This is provided by combs with thermostats. The equipment is not cheap, the circuit is more complicated, but such an installation allows you to maintain the desired temperature in the room.

There are different thermostats. Some control the temperature of the air in the room, the second - the temperature of the floor. You choose the type. Regardless of this, they control the servomotors mounted on the feed comb. Servo motors, depending on the command, increase or decrease the flow area, adjusting the intensity of the coolant flow.

Theoretically (and practically it happens), situations may arise when the supply to all circuits is blocked. In this case, the circulation will stop, the boiler may boil and fail. To prevent this from happening, be sure to make a bypass through which part of the coolant passes. With this construction of the system, the boiler is safe.

You can see one of the system options in the video.

Laying a warm water floor

One of the key components of the system is pipes and their fixation system. There are two technologies:

Both systems are not ideal, but laying pipes in a screed is cheaper. Although it has a lot of disadvantages, it is because of its lower cost that it is more popular.

Which system to choose

In terms of cost, dry systems are more expensive: their components (if you take ready-made, factory ones) cost more. But they weigh much less and are put into operation faster. There are several reasons why you should use them.

First: the heavy weight of the screed. Not all foundations and ceilings of houses are able to withstand the load created by a water-heated floor in a concrete screed. Above the surface of the pipes there must be a concrete layer of at least 3 cm. Considering that outside diameter the pipe is also about 3 cm, then the total thickness of the screed is 6 cm. The weight is more than significant. And on top there is often a tile on a layer of glue. Well, if the foundation is designed with a margin, it will withstand, and if not, problems will begin. If there is a suspicion that the ceiling or foundation will not withstand the load, it is better to make a wooden or polystyrene system.

Second: low maintainability of the system in the screed. Although it is recommended to lay only solid coils of pipes without joints when laying underfloor heating contours, periodically the pipes are damaged. Either during the repair they hit with a drill, or burst due to marriage. The place of damage can be determined by a wet spot, but it is difficult to repair: you have to break the screed. In this case, adjacent loops can be damaged, due to which the damage zone becomes larger. Even if you managed to do it carefully, you have to make two seams, and they are the potential sites for the next damage.

Third: the commissioning of a warm floor in a screed is possible only after the concrete has gained 100% strength. This takes at least 28 days. Before this period, it is impossible to turn on the warm floor.

Fourth: you have a wooden floor. By itself, a tie on a wooden floor is not the best idea, but also a screed with an elevated temperature. The wood will quickly collapse, the whole system will collapse.

The reasons are serious. Therefore, in some cases, it is more expedient to use dry technologies. Moreover, a do-it-yourself wooden water-heated floor is not so expensive. The most expensive component is metal plates, but they can also be made from thin sheet metal and better - aluminum. It is important to be able to bend, forming grooves for pipes.

A variant of a polystyrene underfloor heating system without a screed is shown in the video.

Materials for a warm water floor

Most often they make a water-heated floor in a screed. Its structure and necessary materials will be discussed. The scheme of a warm water floor is presented in the photo below.

All work begins with leveling the base: without insulation, heating costs will be too high, and insulation can only be laid on a flat surface. Therefore, the first step is to prepare the base - make a rough screed. Next, we describe step by step the procedure for work and the materials used in the process:

• A damper tape is also rolled around the perimeter of the room. It's a strip thermal insulation material, no more than 1 cm thick. It prevents heat loss for wall heating. Its second task is to compensate for the thermal expansion that occurs when materials are heated. The tape can be special, and you can also lay it in strips thin foam(not more than 1 cm thick) or other insulation of the same thickness.
• A layer of heat-insulating materials is laid on the rough screed. For underfloor heating the best choice- polystyrene foam. The best is extruded. Its density must be at least 35kg/m 2 . It is dense enough to support the weight of the screed and operating loads, has excellent performance and a long service life. Its disadvantage is that it is expensive. Other, cheaper materials (styrofoam, mineral wool, expanded clay), have a lot of disadvantages. If possible, use polystyrene foam. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on many parameters - on the region, the characteristics of the foundation material and insulation, the method of organizing the subfloor. Therefore, it must be calculated for each case.

• Further, a reinforcing mesh is often laid in increments of 5 cm. Pipes are also tied to it - with wire or plastic clamps. If expanded polystyrene was used, you can do without reinforcement - you can fasten it with special plastic brackets that are driven into the material. For other heaters, a reinforcing mesh is required.
• Beacons are installed on top, after which the screed is poured. Its thickness is less than 3 cm above the level of the pipes.
• Next, a clean floor covering is laid. Any suitable for use in an underfloor heating system.

These are all the main layers that need to be laid when you make a do-it-yourself water-heated floor.

Underfloor heating pipes and laying schemes

The main element of the system is pipes. Most often, polymeric ones are used - made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic. They bend well and have a long service life. Their only obvious drawback is not too high thermal conductivity. This minus is not present in the recently appeared corrugated pipes from stainless steel. They bend better, cost no more, but due to their low popularity, they are not often used yet.

The diameter of pipes for underfloor heating depends on the material, but usually it is 16-20 mm. They fit in several schemes. The most common are spiral and snake, there are several modifications that take into account some features of the premises.

Laying with a snake is the simplest, but passing through the pipes the coolant gradually cools down and by the end of the circuit it is already much colder than it was at the beginning. Therefore, the zone where the coolant enters will be the warmest. This feature is used - laying starts from the coldest zone - along the outer walls or under the window.

This drawback is almost devoid of a double snake and a spiral, but they are more difficult to lay - you need to draw a diagram on paper so as not to get confused when laying.

Screed

Can be used to fill a water-heated floor cement-sand mortar based on Portland cement. The brand of Portland cement should be high - M-400, and preferably M-500. - not lower than M-350.

But the usual "wet" screeds are gaining their strength for a very long time. design strength: at least 28 days. All this time it is impossible to turn on the warm floor: cracks will appear that can even break the pipes. Therefore, so-called semi-dry screeds are increasingly being used - with additives that increase the plasticity of the solution, significantly reducing the amount of water and the time for "aging". You can add them yourself or look for dry mixes with the appropriate properties. They cost more, but there is less trouble with them: according to the instructions, add the required amount of water and mix.

It is realistic to make a water heated floor with your own hands, but it will take a decent amount of time and a lot of money.

Underfloor heating - modern heating system, which is used more and more often in country houses and cottages. In many cases, it becomes the main heating, but sometimes it is installed only to increase comfort.

Meanwhile, warm floors can be different: water, electric, infrared. In this article, we will look at the features of such systems, the differences, as well as the advantages and disadvantages.

Why is it recommended to install underfloor heating in the house? What are its benefits?

Any type of underfloor heating system installed in the cottage guarantees the owners more high level comfort and several important advantages.

However, perhaps the most interesting thing is that all heating elements are completely hidden from view, that is, the appearance of the cottage becomes much better - no protruding pipes and familiar radiators. At the same time, it is habitually warm to live in such a house, since a heating circuit (water, infrared or electric) is placed under the floor.

It is also important that contact with heating elements as they are placed under the floor covering. Which increases the level of security.

The circulation of heated air becomes more even, and the total heating costs can be significantly reduced (provided that a water circuit is used). The floor is always warm, you can walk barefoot - and this is especially important if there are children in the house.

What are the types of underfloor heating?

In practice, the following types of such systems are used:

1. water;
2. electric;
3. infrared;
4. combined (rarely used, we will not consider it).

Each of these types of heating has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. In order to choose specific system it is necessary to analyze the features, pros and cons of each of them.

Water heated floor

This is the most popular, but at the same time the most complex, device option. floor heating in cottages. However, it should be understood that equipping it yourself is not an easy task, only if you have the appropriate experience. It is better to entrust the design and installation of this type of heating to specialists.

System features, positive and negative properties

In general, the water floor heating system is closed loop made from pipes. The circuit is mounted under the floor covering on a concrete screed, special polystyrene boards or hardwood floors and connected to the general heating system.

The system kit includes the following items:

1. pipes (plastic, metal-plastic);
2. fasteners;
3. thermal insulation materials;
4. manifold and fittings for connection.

This type of system has many positive qualities, and is becoming more and more popular in country houses and here's why:

• more economical use electricity - electricity costs after installing a water-heated floor are reduced several times compared to using conventional electric heaters;
• rooms are heated more evenly;
• high level of safety - the risk of burns is excluded;
• you can adjust the microclimate of the rooms (arrange a separate heating circuit for each of them);
• the ability to use any floor coverings - surface heating does not exceed 30 degrees, there are no harmful emissions;
• creating coziness and comfort for residents.

This system also has disadvantages, but they are either temporary, or you can put up with them:

• lengthy and complex installation process;
• leaks may occur, which often lead to damage to the flooring - to eliminate leaks and repair the floor, a complete dismantling of the coatings is required;
• the possibility of reducing the pressure in the common heating system;
• to regulate the temperature, it is necessary to install mixers.

If it is necessary to use a warm floor with a water circuit as the main heating, it is connected to a heating boiler installed in the house. Conventional radiators are not used in this case. The boiler can be of any type - solid fuel, gas or electric. However, before using an electric boiler, it is better to first look at the electric floor heating.

Important! In order to avoid emergency situations in winter, it is impossible to turn off the water-heated floor system.

Electric floor heating

Underfloor heating heated by electricity is a very popular heating system for country house. Its main components are a heating cable and a thermostat that controls the entire system.

There are two options for installing the heating cable - either laid in a cement-sand screed or directly under the floor covering. Most often in this case, tiles are used as flooring, but other materials are also possible.

Important advantage of electric underfloor heatinglies in the simplicity of its execution. Any experienced home craftsman can design and assemble it.

O system features

After laying the heating cable and the finishing floor covering, the entire floor surface turns into a kind of heater, a source ofpleasant and soft warmth, comfortable for bare feet. It is worth noting that the air in the room does not dry out, as happens when using electric heaters of many models.

The composition of the electric floor heating system in cottages traditionally includes:

1. heating cable of the required length;
2. control automation - a temperature sensor and a thermostat that turns off the heating when the set temperature is reached;
3. fasteners used during installation;
4. heat-insulating materials.

The basis of the electric floor heating system is the heating cable. It consists of several sections, equipped with special couplings for connection, two-layer insulation and a protective screen.

All connecting elements are made of non-corrosive materials. The warranty period for the cable is 15 years, but more durable cables are available, including armored and shielded. They are highly reliable and durable.

Control system and the ability to automate work

The convenience of any systems powered by electricity lies in the possibility of a wide range of regulation, including automatic control. Electric underfloor heating has the same capabilities.

In simpler systems, thermostats are used, in which the temperature is set manually, smoothly or discretely, that is, without the possibility of programming. Such systems are quite logical and natural to use in homes designed for permanent residence. At any time, the owners can intervene in the operation of the system and set the desired temperature.

Programmable thermostats maintain and regulate the temperature automatically, according to a given algorithm. Such systems are useful if Vacation home or come to the dacha from time to time.

Infrared warm floor

The operation of this type of underfloor heating is based on infrared radiation, which heats not only the floor itself, but also objects located above it.

The system has several very important advantages:

• the use of radiation, which by its nature resembles the sun and is perceived by a person more naturally;
• it is not the air that warms up, but the objects in the room, which after that themselves begin to give off heat;
• versatility and ease of installation - a thin radiant film can be mounted on walls, ceilings, under floor coverings without cement screed and special labor;
• reliability and safety;
• profitability;
• universality;
• rapid heating of the room;
• ease of use;
• the ability to automate control;
• long service life.

Important! As practice shows, infrared warm floor is economical and completely safe. Thin film does not require space under the floor covering and is not felt at all even under thin and soft linoleum.

The disadvantages of the infrared heating system also has:

• heating furniture, leading to overheating of the film. It can be avoided by not installing the film in places where furniture will be located or using furnishings with legs;
• significant energy costs for heating large rooms;
• dependence on power supply - relevant if the warm floor is the main or only source of heat.

Summary

The choice of the type of underfloor heating depends on the specific features of the country house, its area and the amount of space. Important role Other factors come into play when choosing a system:

1. features of the local climate;
2. comfort requirements;
3. the presence of centralized heating from the village network;
4. functionality;
5. individual preferences.

Electric underfloor heating is convenient to use, but its installation in a cottage is beneficial only in villages with cheap electricity and uninterrupted power supply.

The most common option for houses with central heating is underfloor heating. But it is also installed in cottages with autonomous heating. infrared heating has many important advantages, and is the most modern option, although not the most economical.

With the advent of cold weather, many are thinking about upgrading their heating system. And the installation of a water heated floor is one of the frequent decisions of such users. After all, this design allows you to significantly save on heating, while the consumption is sharply reduced, and the elements themselves that provide heating and warm air, do not take up space in the room, because they are hidden under the floor. Let's figure out what kind of underfloor heating are and how to mount them in a private house with your own hands.

The principle of operation of underfloor heating in the house

Heating and warm air in a cottage or a private house are provided with underfloor heating - this is completely new system, excluding such actions as the installation and operation of convectors with radiators, as well as a large connection of their components and elements. Instead, a heating circuit built into the floor from a pipe and a collector is used, or several of these sets, if the length and width of the room are more than the norm, which can be handled by one collector and circuit.

All this is usually installed on concrete pavement, but you can also install it on a wooden one (although the consumption will be more). Mats for a warm water floor are also installed, due to which consumption is significantly reduced. But the most important thing is that all this can be done in a cottage or private house with your own hands. The main thing is to know the principle of operation of this technology and follow the installation rules.

So, the scheme of a warm floor in a private house is pipes with a heat carrier that provide heating and warm air, as well as a collector, a pump and a thermostatic mixer that make up the mixing units. All this equipment is installed with the help of joints in the floor, and a cement screed for a warm water floor is poured on top.

When these works are completed, you can turn on the system for heating and thus start the warm air in the cottage. As you can see, doing it yourself is no more difficult than installing a bath if you know the principle of operation. In addition, the cost of construction will then be less.

Underfloor heating in a private house or cottage: advantages and disadvantages

Before you understand whether it is worth choosing such a scheme to provide warm air in a private house, and even more so do it yourself, you need to weigh all the pros and cons of this technology.

The advantages of this design are:

1. The cost of heating in the house is reduced by at least 30%, and the air remains the same warm.
2. Thanks to uniform circulation, the air in the cottage becomes comfortable. After all, heating applies not only to furniture near the battery, but to the entire area in the cottage.
3. The technology that provides heating with a pipe embedded in the floor is safe because there is no direct contact with hot pipe, and the pressure in it is not so high that the rupture leads to a serious failure of the entire structure, as is the case with radiators, the connection of which is less reliable.
4. Improvement appearance- inside the cottage will now be more comfortable, because there will be no big white pipe through the whole and radiators taking up space. Instead, there will be a heating circuit under the floor of each room, covering the entire area, and in some places, a small closet hiding a manifold with parts. It will be possible to put furniture there and increase the free space.
5. A warm floor can be installed under a laminate, and under a tile, linoleum and other coverings.
6. The cost of installing equipment in a cottage is quite low, especially if you do the work yourself.

But there are also disadvantages of choosing such an air heating principle as underfloor heating technology:

1. To install the equipment, you need to spend a lot of time, especially if you do everything yourself;
2. If the equipment breaks, this leads to a serious repair expense, because you have to dismantle the entire floor, take out the furniture, and at this time the heating will stop, and the air in the whole house will be cold;
3. Some large rooms will need an additional source to provide heat, as underfloor heating technology is not designed for high heating output. To keep the air warm, you will have to install covectors with radiators.

On this, the disadvantages that this equipment has end.

Wiring diagrams for installing warm water floors

To install equipment for heating air in a dwelling with your own hands (pipes, a collector, a pump to regulate pressure), you need to know the diagrams of how to install a heating circuit under the floor, taking into account how the furniture is installed, how long the room is and other characteristics.

Do-it-yourself pipe installation schemes are as follows:

• Snail;
• snake;
• Net;
• A combination of different ways so that the contour is located on all surfaces.

Calculation of underfloor heating and the amount of materials needed

Calculation of a warm water floor - important detail building a house with your own hands. But it is better to do this stage not on your own, but with the help of professionals. They will calculate how long the pipe should be, the type that the heating circuit should have, they will advise you to choose the best installation option (mesh, snake, etc.), they will calculate what the cost of repairs will be. But you can calculate everything with your own hands according to well-known schemes.

So, first they draw diagrams according to which a grid of pipes, circuits, as well as a collector for each room will be mounted.

At the same time, furniture, windows and other elements of the rooms are taken into account. Then they calculate where the pressure regulating pump and other required equipment will stand, according to the diagram. After that, a coating for a warm water floor is chosen, it is calculated what its thickness should be, etc. Once the preparatory work on paper has been completed, you can proceed directly to installation.

Collector mounting features

The collector and its auxiliary equipment is installed in a special cabinet for the collector. This is not furniture, but a special niche with dimensions of 500x500 (length and width) on average. Its thickness is small - the main thing is that all the equipment fits, and it is convenient to adjust it.

Once the cabinet is installed, install the supply and return pipes for hot and cold water, respectively. The collector for hot water is connected to the supply pipe, and the collector connecting the end sections of the pipes is connected to the return pipe.

Then install a stopcock where the pipes connect to the manifold so that the system can be repaired. On the other side of the collector, do not forget to install a drain cock. If it is difficult to install the collector yourself, you can buy a ready-made one in which all the necessary equipment will be installed and it will not have to be adjusted.

Surface preparation

Before installing mats for a warm water floor, which must have the proper thickness to retain heat, as well as the heating circuit itself, the length of which allows you to cover the entire surface of the room, they begin to prepare the surface. It is necessary to remove the garbage, close up the places where it performs reinforced mesh or other interfering details, remove the furniture in the room. If the floor thickness is different, that is, it is curved, you need to adjust this before installing a warm circuit.

The principle of preparation is as follows: first, a waterproofing layer is laid, the length and thickness of which is known from the dimensions of the room (made of dense polyethylene), a damper tape is attached to the edges with self-tapping screws, after which thermal insulation is laid - a heater for a warm water floor. The thicker it is, the better, because it reduces heat consumption. Reinforcing mesh is laid on top.

How to lay pipes

The heating circuit from the pipe, the length of which should allow heating the entire room, is placed in concrete screed, using either a mounting grid, or mats, or grooves in a rough wooden floor. The thickness of the screed must be sufficient. The ideal thickness is 3-5 cm above the surface of the plates. If the screed is made under the tile, and not the laminate or linoleum, the thickness should be greater.

Heating circuit connection diagram

As a rule, any underfloor heating circuit is connected to the boiler. It creates the proper power and pressure. But its power should exceed by 15-20% the power of the warm floors themselves. In this case, between it and the collector you need to install expansion tank and other security features. They won't affect the cost. In addition, in a private house it is a common element of any heating scheme.

Then the pipe is connected to a collector installed in a cabinet away from furniture. From the collector, the pipe goes to the warm floors. It is laid over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room - this is the heating circuit. You can not lay under areas with bulky furniture, if it will always stand there. The end of the pipe is connected to the return manifold. If the pressure in the pipes is weak, pumping and mixing units are installed. They will also help reduce costs.

System health check

Before laying laminate or tile over pipes, you need to check them. It is done like this:

1. The compressor pumps air into the system - the pressure should be up to 4 bar. The system is checked for leaks. Such high pressure will reveal even the smallest gap.
2. The system is filled with water - the pressure is from 0.6 MPa. First, in the first half hour, the pressure should not decrease by more than 0.06 MPa. At the second stage, the pressure is brought to 1 MPa, and in 2 hours it should not decrease by more than 0.02 MPa.

If the test is passed, you can pour the screed and lay the floor, choosing a laminate, tile or other coating as a coating, and then install the furniture.

Floor laying on concrete

Traditionally, a concrete floor acts as the basis for underfloor heating. It is reliable, strong, resistant to temperature extremes, even. Laying is done as follows:

1. Prepare the room for work (take out furniture, tear off the old floor). Level the base by cleaning it.
2. Install a waterproofing layer and a damper tape.
3. Install heat and vapor barrier.
4. Lay reinforcing mesh.
5. Install the underfloor heating itself, check its performance.
6. The screed is poured on top (2-3 cm above the level of the pipes) and left to dry.
7. Lay flooring (laminate, tiles), arrange furniture.

Underfloor heating under wooden floors

If wood is the basis for the floor, this is not a problem - heating can also be installed. A heater is installed between the lags and pipes - it will reduce heat consumption and remove contact between the pipe and the tree.

You can also install hydro and vapor barrier. It will also be useful for reducing heat consumption. Next, they make a classic warm floor, at the end of which a laminate is laid on top. But in order for the heat transfer to be maximum, logs are laid on the insulation, boards are nailed to them, between which 2 cm gaps are made for pipes. They install metal gutters in which there will be pipes.

Thanks to this, the finish coating (laminate or tile) will warm up completely. A screed is made on top and a floor is installed - either a polymer coating (slab, porcelain stoneware), or a laminate that can withstand temperature changes. Parquet and board will not work.

This design is very successful. After all, when repairing, it is enough to tear off the laminate and fix the problem. But the concrete floor will have to be destroyed for a long time before getting to the source of the problem. Laminate is simply removed and just as practical to install. But a wooden warm floor gives less heat output - this must be taken into account.

Sometimes is the only solution ensuring comfortable and cozy living in a private house, especially in the northern regions. In autumn-spring and winter periods the base under your feet can cool down quite quickly, and you have to walk in warm socks, otherwise your feet get very cold. It can also be considered a plus in some way additional heating of the building itself from the inside. In objects of individual residential construction, water-heated floors are often made. Wiring diagrams in a private house can be very different, but the essence is the same - such a heating system has been and remains the most frequently equipped in the house. Let's see what are the features of water floors, how you can make them yourself.

Warm floors are not new for a long time. For several decades, they have been used to create comfort and coziness in the house and are especially popular in private homes where there are no neighbors from below, but only a basement or foundation. And, of course, in the cold seasons of the year, the floor under your feet will be cool, if not icy (much depends on how well the floors themselves were insulated).

A water-based warm floor is often recommended for use for underfloor heating in any private house, although there are also electric and. The latter are often installed in apartments, as they do not pose a risk of flooding of the premises, and are also easier to install - in particular, they do not require the construction of a cement screed. But water floors are, perhaps, perfect option for a private house, especially if it has a heating boiler.

On a note! water system heating can not be regarded as the only heating system in the house. It can only act as an additional one together with heating radiators and other heaters. But to make life in the house comfortable is just her task.

It is easy to understand that, in contrast to electrical system, in the water heater, the role of the heater is performed by water that enters the pipes laid and filled with screed. The coolant is supplied through a special collector, which is connected to the heating system (central, heating boiler, etc.). The heat comes from the heated water circulating through the pipes to the concrete screed, heats it up, and it, in turn, gives off heat to the room and warms up the flooring. Therefore, it will be pleasant to walk on such a floor.

Attention! Water systems are used, as a rule, in private dwellings. The apartment rarely has the ability to connect the system to central heating, and there is also a chance to flood the neighbors living below in the event of a system breakdown.

Advantages

A water-based heating system has many advantages. These include:

• achieving the desired level of comfort, since the floors will always be warm, and the air in the room will be warmed up evenly;

• security but only in a private house. Such floors will not shock, and the worst thing that can happen is a leak. But in a private house, it is not as critical as in an apartment building. Moreover, even if a leak occurs, the maximum property of the owner will suffer, but not he himself, since there is simply no risk of getting burned with hot water;
• savings- is also one of the advantages. Water floors will save a lot of natural and financial resources, since the water will be used as the same heat carrier. You can also warm up the room faster using water floors if the ceiling height is very high;
• compatible with all floor coverings- also a plus. Indeed, only in rare cases it is impossible to lay any certain coatings on top of the heating system. And then, if everything is done correctly, then any coatings can be laid on top of the water system;

• the cost of the water system is low which will save some money Money during installation.

But such a system also has disadvantages. So, for example, during installation you can not do without, and this is quite hard work that requires certain skills. Plus, the screed will have to be dried before operation, and this is plus 28 days to the duration of the repair. And during this period, nothing can be done in the repaired premises. Another drawback is the difficulty of repairing the system itself if necessary. So it is important to do everything with high quality initially, in order to avoid trouble later for a long time.

Types of water floors and device features

The main element of the system of such floor heating is the pipes through which the coolant-water circulates. They can be both metal and made of polymeric materials. The former are distinguished by a high price and the complexity of the connections, while the latter are much easier to lay, and they are cheaper. In addition to pipes, other elements of this system will be needed. This is a base in the form of a concrete slab or polystyrene, a waterproofing layer, a thermal insulation layer, a concrete screed. On top of this cake, the finishing coating is laid directly. In general, the thickness of the entire structure will be about 7-15 cm.

Depending on how the arrangement of underfloor heating is carried out, there are several basic types of construction.

Table. Types of water floors.

Type	Description
heavy	This is the most common option, characterized by high reliability. Here it is important to carefully prepare the rough surface (rough floor or floors), then lay the heat and waterproofing layers, and then the reinforcing mesh layer, to which the heating circuit itself from the pipes will be attached with clamps. After that, it remains to fill everything with a screed, dry it, and the warm floor is ready for use. Heavy water floors are also called concrete or wet floors. The latter is due to the fact that it is required to carry out work on pouring the screed. It is important to understand that the screed layer above the pipes themselves should not be less than 3 cm.
Lungs	In this case, a special polystyrene board. It is sold in finished version. During installation, it must be laid on the subfloor and laid along it in accordance with the scheme of the underfloor heating pipe. They will not need additional fixation, since there are special protrusions on the plate itself that allow you to securely fix the pipes. Then, special heat-distributing plates are placed on top, on top of which the installation is carried out. finish coating. This is a good option for arranging a water floor in conditions where it is impossible to install it according to the standard scheme due to the heavy weight of the standard screed.

There is also another option for arranging a floor heating system - according to wooden slats. That is, a tree will be used as the basis for such a floor, to which pipes are attached, and from above they are closed with gypsum fiber and top coat. This option is used extremely rarely and it is not reliable.

Wiring diagrams

It has already been mentioned above that laying schemes for underfloor heating can be different. Depending on the scheme and compliance with the installation rules, the distribution of thermal energy in the room will also occur. There are three main pipe layout schemes, but they are all united by the fact that the installation of pipes is mandatory from the walls towards the central part.

Table. Schemes of installation of a water floor.

Circuit type	Characteristic
	In this case, the pipes are laid in a spiral from the wall to the center, and then return to the starting point. Moreover, the design gradually narrows towards the center of the room. When calculating the circuit and laying it, you must not forget to leave free space between the pipes so that you can “lead” them back to the power source. It is noted that such a scheme will achieve the most uniform heating of the floors, and thanks to it the hydraulic resistance can be reduced. The number of pipes is also used less than in other cases. The main disadvantage is the difficult installation.
	In this case, the pipes are laid along the walls with loops in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. When looking at such a scheme, one can note the waviness of the final figure. It is easy to lay pipes in this way, but due to the frequent step of laying pipes, it is unlikely that it will be possible to achieve uniform floor heating without temperature jumps.
	In this case, both pipe laying schemes are combined. The option is used if the walls in the room are cold enough. The pipes are laid in such a way that in some places they lie in the form of loops, and in other places they lie at right angles.

Mounting Features

Before we talk directly about the process of installing a water floor, it is worth talking about some of the features of this process. So, it is important to consider that in many respects the thermal load of any room will directly depend on what materials the walls are made of, how everything is insulated, how large the window openings are, and also on a number of other factors. We'll have to try to calculate the heat transfer. If it is more than 100 W / m 2, then water floors cannot be used as the main heating system, but only as floor heating directly.

The length of the pipes also cannot be any. It will depend on the size of the room and the installation scheme. Perhaps in one big room you will have to lay two, or even more circuits. This applies to rooms larger than 30 m2 in the first place. And each circuit will heat up independently of the other, although all circuits can be connected to the same manifold. However, the diameter of the pipes, the laying pitch between them and the length must be the same if the lines are connected to the same system. And the length and pitch of the contour, in turn, depend on the diameter of the pipes. The larger it is, the longer the outline can be.

Advice! If the room has built-in furniture, then the floor area under it does not need to be taken into account in the calculations. There will still be no sense from the warm floor, and pipes can not be laid there.

From each wall you need to make a small indent (about 10-15 cm from the outer and up to 30 cm for internal walls). The pitch between the pipes can vary within 20-30 cm if they are used as an additional option for space heating.

A water floor is an ideal heating option for large rooms with an area of ​​\u200b\u200bmore than 20 m 2. But in a small room it is better to choose some other option, since laying water lines will be very inconvenient. It is also worth stopping at the heavy version of the warm floor if possible, that is, mount it using a concrete screed. This is the most reliable, albeit the longest option, but it is ideal for a private home. By the way, the screed itself protects the circuit pipes very well from the risk of damage and by itself is able to retain heat for a long time, which means it will help save money.