How to install a water-heated floor. Do-it-yourself warm water floor: features and nuances

At its core, a hydraulic floor is pipe system through which a liquid of a certain temperature circulates. Heating is carried out by a boiler, the design of which can include pump... Otherwise, it can be output separately. The pump is used to pump cooled water into the heating device.

At the entrance to the boiler, it is mandatory to install pressure gauge allowing you to control the pressure in the heating system. Hot water enters the piping system through collector... It also serves to drain the liquid.

The collector is a piece of pipe with two types of splitters: for hot and cooled water. The manifold includes emergency drain systems, adjustments and settings of the system operation, valves that prevent the reverse flow of liquid.

System mounting technology

Self-installation includes several stages: screed (or leveling), laying heat-insulating and waterproofing layers, distributing pipes, installing a heated floor collector, installing a water heater (boiler), installing pipes, pouring a screed.

All types of work must be carried out in compliance with sanitary standards and safety rules.

Each component structure must have appropriate pressure resistance indicators exposed to liquid or steam.

At every stage, it is necessary leak test and the durability of all devices.

Each scheme of a water-heated floor can have its own distinctive features depending on the selected type of room (bath, balcony, living room), as well as the main material flooring(tiles, wood, plastic, concrete screed).

These nuances and detailed descriptions of each stage of installation are presented below.

Base leveling

The leveling process required in the presence of irregularities is always accompanied by complete removal old screed , cleaning of dirt, dust from construction debris.

For horizontal differences exceeding 10 mm, the procedure is mandatory.

The procedure can be performed Dry and Wet way. In both cases, the first step is getting rid of holes and cracks with the help of concrete mortar or other construction mixture intended for this.

With the "dry" method, the following works are carried out:

You need to start alignment from the far corners, moving to front door... If during the work projections or depressions are found, you can get to them with the help of "construction islands" - sheets of GVL.

When using the "wet" method, after removing the old screed, a primer is poured onto the floor and leveled foam rollers. It takes up to 5 hours to dry. The next procedure is similar to the "dry" method, the only difference is the use of water when compacting expanded clay.

How pipes are laid

Polystyrene boards are laid on the leveled floor surface. They serve for thermal insulation and prevent the spread of heat in all directions.

The actual pipe laying is carried out in two main ways: bifilar (parallel rows) and meander (spiral).

The first variety applies when there is a slope of the floors, there is no need for strictly uniform heating. The second- requires a lot of effort and accuracy, it is applied when using pumps of lower power.

The number of contours depends on the size of the heated room. The maximum area for placing one contour - 40 sq m The laying step can be either uniform throughout its entire length, or vary depending on the need for enhanced heating in certain areas. Average length step is 15-30 cm.

Since the pipes experience strong hydraulic pressure, when installing a water-heated floor, it is unacceptable to connect them using couplings. Only one coupling can be used for each circuit.

It is recommended to use one circuit for heating each room, including a bathroom, a loggia, a pantry, a shed. The smaller the contour, the higher its heat transfer, which is especially important for corner rooms.

Collector installation

The manifold must contain a sufficient number of outputs to connect all circuits.

The same goes for return manifold. In the very simple version it contains only the valves required for one-way water flow.

Availability servos allows the opening or closing of valves.

The thermostat makes it possible to set a certain temperature and subject it to regulation. It is connected to the valves by means of controllers and is brought out to a place accessible to users by the system.

Place the thermostat away from drafts, cold or hot air currents for adequate information transfer.

The collector is installed at a height 50 cm on a wall bracket or in a special box mounted in the wall. The pipes fit into the corner clip and are secured with Euro cones.

To install the thermostat, you need a 1.5-3 m cable and presence of an outlet nearby with its location.

Hydraulic pressure testing of the system

After connecting the pipes into a single system it is necessary to check their strength and tightness. To do this, they are completely filled with water and air is released. The working capacity of all valves is monitored, pipes are visually checked for leaks.

Re-pressure testing is carried out after connecting the pump and barometers.

After the floor is filled with concrete, the pipes will be under pressure up to 30-40 MPa. Pressure testing is carried out under pressure, in 1.5 times the working, which is 60 MPa.

For this shut off all manifold valves and pump air or liquid into the pipes. The pump is pumped with water for 30 minutes, the pressure is controlled several times in the period from 1 to 2 hours with the pump turned off. A drop in the indicator is acceptable in 2 hours at 20kPa.

Do-it-yourself installation and connection of a gas boiler and a pump for underfloor heating

A standard boiler, operating on gas and serving to supply hot water and central heating, has 5 outlets arranged in series from left to right:

Hot water outlet to the heating system.
Hot water outlet to the water supply system.
Gas supply.
Cold water inlet for heating and supply.
Cold water inlet from heating (return).

Connections of all pipes to the heating element detachable, are installed using couplings and nuts.

The heating system is controlled separately from the water supply, which makes it possible to connect independently.

In the boiler from the collector of a warm water floor must be suitable two tubes. One will supply cooled water, and the other will supply hot water to the heating system.

The pump is included in most modern boilers. If it is absent, it is necessary to install it. in series with a manifold and a heater.

Screed pouring mixture

Filling the floor or screed is a procedure that requires great care and accuracy. Avoid floor cracking during drying and during the operation of the system, it is possible by carefully observing the temperature regime and strictly following the instructions for preparing the solutions.

For filling apply ready-made self-leveling mixtures for warm floors or by yourself mixed on a concrete base.

In the first case, the mixtures are made on the basis of gypsum, they require dilution with water to the consistency of sour cream. The drying time for the floor in this case is from 3 to 5 days. During this period, it is recommended to minimize air humidity.

From the use of these solutions for screed floors in rooms that are constantly exposed to water (bathroom, cellar) it is better to abstain.

Homemade mixtures are made on the basis of cement. The recommended brand is M300 and higher. The composition of the mixture is as follows:

Cement- 1 part.
Fine-grained sand- 4 parts.
Water. Water is added until the mixture acquires the consistency of a dough. When adding water, constant stirring is necessary.
Plasticizer. It facilitates the application of the screed, it is applied in the concentrations recommended by the manufacturer, ranging from 1 to 10% of the volume.
The criterion for the correct consistency of the mixture is the ability to sculpt lumps out of it that do not crumble or spread. If the plasticity of the composition is not sufficient - the ball is cracking, which means that there is little liquid in the mixture. If the mixture is too liquid, it is necessary to add sand with cement.

Before pouring, the perimeter of the room is covered with a damper tape, which serves for noise insulation, prevent the floor from cracking when heated.

Pipes and cables are secured with rigid clamps.

The screed is made at air temperature from 5 ° to 30 °(a number of professional mixes can be laid at lower temperatures, they are specially marked).

Maximum area for a one-time filling - 30 sq. m. It is better to divide large spaces into sections. In places where the surface is divided into sections, pipes are put on protective corrugated hoses.

Best before date ready solution is 1 hour, after which it cannot be used.

Pouring of one section is carried out promptly and in one step.

Immediately after the procedure, the mixture is pierce in several places with an awl or a thin knitting needle to allow air bubbles to escape. For the same purposes and additional leveling, a needle roller or a stiff brush is used. The needle must be longer than the thickness of the mortar layer.

Drying of homemade mixtures occurs within 20-30 days and has a number of features:

Unacceptable sudden changes in temperature indoors, exposure to direct sunlight. This is fraught with uneven drying and subsequent deformation.
The floor surface is better cover with plastic wrap and periodically (every few days) moisten with liquid.
After drying it is recommended turn on the heating system for several hours in moderate heat mode.
Recommended air humidity - 60-85%.

Before laying tiles, linoleum, parquet or wood flooring heating must be turned off.

When using materials that are prone to cracking and swelling, the air humidity must be downgrade to 65%.

The tiles are laid on tile adhesive, carpet, linoleum and laminate directly on the screed.

Self-assembly of a warm water floor is possible only if there is a sufficient amount of time, accurate and strict adherence to all instructions and rules.

We offer you to watch a video detailing the installation of water-heated floors:

Warm floors are great for furnishing autonomous heating... Increasingly, owners of private houses prefer just such a heating system. At the same time, it is less convenient for apartments, therefore it is used less often. If you wish and have the skills to handle tools, you can always assemble a warm water floor with your own hands.

The home owner gets the opportunity to use resources rationally. With radiator heating, streams of warm air rush upward, not having time to warm up the entire area of the room. Rising from the warm floor, the air flow heats objects and people and only then moves to the ceiling.

A house with underfloor heating warms up much faster and more evenly than with a radiator, because when the heating is switched on, the entire floor area turns into one large source of heat. The room is heated from below, which ensures maximum comfort for the people in it.

The device of a water underfloor heating implies that the system is powered by a conventional heating boiler. However, the fuel consumption for underfloor heating is relatively low, since the coolant does not need to be heated to such a high temperature as in radiators.

Thanks to this feature of underfloor heating, it is more profitable, and the boiler itself operates in a gentle mode, which increases its service life.

The option of using a warm floor as a system is possible additional heating... In this case, the heated coolant moves along two circuits: first to the radiators, and then, cooling down, along the pipes of the floor circuit.

This is how the homeowner achieves highly efficient heating without spending extra money on paying bills. It is ideal for homes in regions with harsh climates.

The big minus of the system is high costs for accessories and installation. On average, for materials for the arrangement of 1 sq. underfloor heating needs to be spent from 1,500 rubles. If a team is working, then these costs will have to add another 1000-1500 rubles per 1 sq. M. depending on the rates of the workers.

The high cost is due to objective reasons. To lay pipes, the floor level must be raised by at least 100 mm. In order for the system to work normally, they install control valves, a distribution manifold cabinet, special valves for bleeding air from the heating system, etc.

This is a laborious process, so the work of the craftsmen is not cheap.

Do-it-yourself installation of a warm water floor can significantly reduce the cost of the system. It is possible to save up to 30-50% of the total cost

Features of the water heating device

Underfloor heating is a system of pipes laid according to a scheme convenient for the owner of the house. The heated coolant moves along them from the boiler. Its temperature is controlled by thermostats. The cooled coolant returns to the boiler, and the process resumes.

Different flows of the heating agent are combined using collectors - heating control units. The components of the system largely depend on the installation diagram of the underfloor heating pipes and the peculiarities of connecting the circuits in the collector.

As a rule, you have to buy circulation pumps, valves of different types, equipment for automating the operation of the heating system. If the pipes are laid under concrete, then additional building materials and reinforcing mesh will be required.

Pipes should be chosen especially carefully, because the service life of the system depends on their quality and reliability. Usually they use metal-plastic and PVC pipes. Both types of products are durable and practical, but in most cases, homeowners prefer the first option.

Reinforced-plastic pipes are considered more reliable. They bend well, take any shape. An important advantage - acceptable price... Since for heating 1 sq. the floor needs at least 6-7 meters of pipes, their cost significantly affects the total cost.

A detailed device of the underfloor heating system is described in the video below:

Requirements for the installation of underfloor heating

Before starting pipe-laying, the base must be carefully prepared. The surface should be perfectly flat, which will ensure uniform heating of the floor and, accordingly, the premises in the future.
In addition to the materials required for the installation of the system itself, it is necessary to purchase thermal and waterproofing insulation. It is laid on the sub-floor before the pipes are laid.
Laying loops are made with a single pipe with a section of 16, 17, 20 mm. This is to prevent leaks at the joints.
If the underfloor heating is mounted under a screed, then the start of the system should be postponed until the material has completely solidified - 4 weeks. After that, the system is started, and the temperature of the coolant is gradually increased. It will take 2-3 days to launch the system at full capacity.
The design temperature of the outer surface of the floor is regulated by SNiP 41-01-2003. It should, on average, be 26 degrees for rooms where people are constantly staying, and 31 degrees - where people are not constantly present and there is a need for a special temperature regime.
The maximum temperature of the coolant is 55 degrees. The system must be designed and installed so that there are no significant temperature differences in certain areas of the floor. The allowable difference is 5-10 degrees.

The thickness of the thermal insulation layer depends on the calculated heat load. The larger it is, the thicker the thermal insulation layer should be.

Arrangement methods - concrete and floor

There are two main ways of installing the system: concrete, floor. The first type of pipe-laying is also called wet, jellied. It is used if a concrete screed is planned over the floor heating system.

The concrete method of installation is reliable and efficient, because the finished system has the best heat transfer, which completely covers the heat loss. Heating operation is possible in a wide temperature range.

The concrete system is capable of withstanding loads of 500 kg per 1 square meter, which allows it to be installed in any type of premises, including residential and industrial. Its service life can exceed 50 years.

The flat method is used if the pipes are mounted under a wooden or polystyrene coating. Installation is carried out without "wet" processes, so that the work can be done faster, because you do not have to wait for the drying of the building mixtures.

First, hydro-, thermal insulation is laid, the perimeter of the rooms is trimmed with an adhesive damper tape. When calculating the thermal insulation layer, all heat losses must be taken into account. Insulation is mounted over the entire floor surface

The pipes are laid on top of the thermal insulation, secured with brackets, dowel hooks, clamps or fastening strips. Perfect option- the use of ready-made thermal insulation boards, in which fasteners are provided in advance.

A reinforcing layer is laid on top, followed by a carrier layer. As topcoat it is best to choose ceramic tiles, natural or fake diamond, laminated parquet.

The result is a heating "cake", the thickness of which can reach 10-15 cm, depending on the cross-section of the pipes, the thickness of the layers of thermal and waterproofing, the finishing coating.

The entire procedure for installing the system is briefly and clearly described below:

Calculation and design of the system

How can you make a water-heated floor with your own hands? You should start with the calculation and design of the system. This critical stage works, on which the features of heating installation, heating efficiency and the durability of the entire structure depend.

When designing, take into account the following factors:

the volume that needs to be heated (area, height, shape of the room);
features of the temperature regime;
materials to be used in the work.

When developing the scheme, all the nuances are taken into account, including the location of the collectors, expansion joints. It is important that the deformation space and pipeline elements do not intersect.

It is also advisable to know in advance where and how the furnishings and / or plumbing fixtures will be located. If furniture is planned above the pipes, then it should be made of materials that tolerate well high temperatures... It is better not to use a tree, because it dries up.

A separate circuit is needed for each room in the house. If non-residential premises are heated (for example, a loggia or a veranda), then the circuit should not be combined with the adjacent living rooms. Otherwise, the heat will go away to heat the non-residential area, and living rooms will be cold.

In order not to be mistaken when designing, some nuances should be taken into account. The specialist tells about this:

Underfloor heating installation technology

Let's consider in detail the installation of a warm water floor under the screed. This is the most time-consuming job, but the finished system is much more efficient than the one laid by "dry" methods - using modules or rails.

Stage # 1: preparatory work

Before starting the installation of the heating system, the room must be fully prepared: windows, doors are installed, all rough Finishing work, communications are connected, niches for collectors are prepared in places where free access will be provided to them.

It is necessary to mark the floor. The base must be perfectly flat, drops of more than 0.5 cm are unacceptable, otherwise the heating operation will be disrupted, the hydraulic resistance indicators will increase, the heating system will air.

If necessary, the floor is additionally leveled with a screed. If it adjoins the ground, carefully waterproof

Stage # 2: laying steam or waterproofing

A polyethylene film is used as vapor and waterproofing. Its thickness must be at least 0.2 mm. This layer is necessary to protect insulating materials from moisture, which significantly reduces their properties.

Waterproofing is required because moisture can come both from the ground and from the cold floor. The film is laid with an overlap of up to 10 cm and the joints are fixed with adhesive tape. She also covers the joints of the floor and walls.

So that a thermal bridge does not form between the screed and the walls, a damper tape is used. It is laid along the walls, and it must rise above the markings of the warm floor level by at least 20 cm. The special waterproof "apron" of the tape prevents water from entering the joints between the insulating board and the tape itself.

Many thermal insulation materials lose their properties when exposed to moisture. For example, when damp, polystyrene protects much worse from noise and cold.

Stage # 3: installation of thermal insulation boards

The selection and installation of thermal insulation boards largely determines the efficiency of the entire underfloor heating system. Correct thermal insulation directs the heat flow from the heating elements upwards into the room. The main characteristics of the system depend on it - power, the degree of resource saving, bearing capacity.

Foil-clad polystyrene with a thickness of 3 cm can be used as a heat insulator. With all the advantages of this insulation, it has significant drawbacks, therefore it is better to give preference to more modern and technologically advanced materials and choose special heat-insulating plates.

Thermal insulation boards are ready-made systems for laying pipes for underfloor heating. They are extremely robust and have special lugs that make it easy to fasten and bend the pipes, giving the contour the desired shape.

Plates are securely fastened with special locks, are distinguished by high rates of heat and sound insulation, smooth out minor irregularities in the floor. They are mounted in the direction from the far left corner from left to right. If the layout of the room provides for protrusions or niches, the slabs are cut or increased.

Plates are laid over the entire surface of the floor of the room, without gaps. Such installation ensures uniform heating of the room, as well as the mechanical strength of the system.

Stage # 4: laying the heating circuit

The pipes are laid with a step of 10-30 cm, depending on the amount of heat loss. Most often, 30 cm is enough. The distance from the wall is 15 cm. The pipes are laid between the protrusions of the heat-insulating plates, pressing them tightly to the floor. At the joints, they are protected with special metal sleeves.

For each circuit, a separate piece of pipe of the corresponding length is needed: up to 80 m if the pipe diameter is 16 mm, and up to 120 m for pipes with a diameter of 20 mm. If the length of the pipes is too long, then the indicators of the hydraulic resistance will increase. It should be borne in mind that it should be approximately the same in all circuits that are connected to one collector.

The two most popular pipe laying technologies are:

bifilar ("snail") - the contour has a spiral shape;
meander ("snake") - the contour of the warm floor looks like a zigzag.

Variants are possible. So, a double "snake" is appropriate in rooms where you need to achieve the highest heat flux density.

Can be combined different ways pipe laying. For example, for large rooms use a "snake", and for less spacious rooms - "snail".

Laying "snake" has some disadvantages, but there are cases when this method of pipe installation is irreplaceable, for example, if the floor has a linear slope. Another plus - less load on the heating pump than when laying pipes "snail"

Stage # 5: pipe crimping and screed

After laying the heating circuit and connecting to the distribution manifold, the pipes must be pressurized. To do this, the heating circuit is filled with a coolant and air is removed by releasing it through the drain taps. Pressure for crimping metal-plastic pipes should be 6 bar, time - 1 day.

You can warm up the system to 80 degrees for half an hour, and after cooling down, pour the pipes under pressure with a concrete screed

Crimping XLPE pipes is more difficult. After reducing the pressure, the system is pumped up, after half an hour the procedure is repeated. Then, after another hour and a half, the pressure is restored for the last time and the heating system is left for a day. During this time, the pressure should drop by no more than 1.5 bar.

For screed, mixtures with the addition of plasticizers are used, which improve the elasticity of the finished layer. After complete drying and hardening (28 days), you can plan to start in working mode.

The procedure for installing a warm water floor with your own hands is well described below:

Conclusion

When the main work on the installation of a warm water floor is completed, it is put into operation. This is necessary to remove air from the heating circuit. Warming up starts from 25 degrees, gradually bringing the temperature to the working temperature.

The system is started with a pressure above the working pressure of about 15%, and all branches, except for the tested one, are closed. The pumps must run at minimum power. The procedure is repeated for each branch separately.

Why choose water systems? They are practical, versatile and economical. They are cheaper to operate than electric ones. The only drawback is the laborious installation. However, the costs of manpower and resources are paid off due to ease of use, durability of the system, savings on heating.

How to mount a warm floor with your own hands? All installation details for the main types of underfloor heating: capillary, liquid, electric, etc.

If you love comfort and warmth, then the undisputed advantage of your home will be a warm floor, which is an excellent heating element. The house has rooms in which it is inconvenient to lay a carpet. For example, a warm floor in the bedroom, in the kitchen or in the corridor will become irreplaceable.

What is underfloor heating? It is a heating system, independent or additional. Unlike many other systems, the heating elements of this one are mounted under the floor and not in plain sight. Thanks to this attitude, warm air rises up over the entire floor area, evenly warming the room. Big square heating, which is subject to underfloor heating, is undoubtedly an advantage, especially in the case when underfloor heating is installed in a cottage.

After looking at the prices for the installation of such convenience, many are thinking how to make a warm floor yourself. Self-installed underfloor heating is very economical and practical.

This article will tell you how to properly make underfloor heating. All varieties of such a floor are considered here, their features and installation.

To make a warm floor with your own hands, you first need to know what kind of warm floors are, choose the right one, make a list of what you need and take into account all the details of the room and the features of the warm floor.

Materials for underfloor heating depend on the characteristics of your installation desires, but the following main groups can be distinguished:

Thermal insulation depends on the characteristics of the place, heat loss. For example, on balconies, lower floors, etc., a larger layer should be used.
A heating element. This, depending on the type of gender, electrical cable, infrared thermal film.
Protective covering. For example, a screed wooden slats, plastic film, plywood.
Top cover... It can be whatever you want - tiles, linoleum, carpet, laminate, tiles, etc.

To know what kind of warm floors there are, you need to remember their main types: water, electric (this includes infrared) and mixed capillary. The top coat can be combined with different types.

How to make a water heat-insulated floor?

The role of the coolant in such floors is played by a liquid. Circulating under the floor with pipes, heating the room from hot water heating. This type of floor allows you to use almost any type of boiler.

installation of a group of collectors;

installation of a flush-mounted cabinet designed for the installation of collectors;
bringing up pipes that supply and discharge water. Each pipe must be equipped with shut-off valves;
the manifold must be connected to a shut-off valve. An air outlet must be installed on one side of the valve, and a drain valve on the opposite side.

Preparatory work

Calculating the power of the heating system for your room, taking into account heat loss and characteristics.
Substrate preparation and surface leveling.
Selection of a suitable scheme according to which the pipes will be laid.

When the floor is already in the process of laying, the question arises - how to make the most suitable pipe laying. There are three most popular schemes that provide uniform heating of floors:

"Snail". A spiral in two rows with alternating hot and cold pipes. The scheme is practical in rooms with a large area;

"Snake". It is best to start from the outside wall. The farther from the beginning of the pipe, the colder it is. Suitable for small spaces;

"Meander" or, as they call it, "double snake". The forward and backward pipe lines run parallel in a serpentine pattern across the entire floor.

How to make a water heat-insulated floor: types of styling

In order to avoid mistakes in the process of laying a warm water floor, you need to immediately decide on the installation method.

Concrete paving system

Laying of thermal insulation, which will have the following parameters: layer thickness from 30 mm with a density coefficient of 35 kg / m3. It is recommended to use polystyrene or polystyrene foam insulation.

A good alternative might be:

attaching a damper tape around the entire perimeter of the wall. This is done in order to compensate for the expansion of the screeds;
stacking thick plastic wrap;
wire mesh, which will serve as the basis for fastening the pipe;
hydraulic tests. The pipes are checked for tightness and strength. Performed within 24 hours at a pressure of 3-4 bar;
laying concrete mix for screed. The screed itself is installed at a level not lower than 3 and not higher than 15 cm above the pipes. There is a ready-made specialized mixture for floor screed on sale;
drying of the screed lasts at least 28 days, during which the floor cannot be turned on;
selected coverage tab.

Polystyrene system

A feature of this system is considered to be a smaller floor thickness, which is achieved by the absence of a concrete screed. A layer of gypsum fiber sheet (GVL) is laid on top of the system, in the case of laminate or ceramic tiles - two layers of GVL:

stacking polystyrene boards as planned in the drawings;
good and high-quality aluminum plates that provide uniform heating and must cover at least 80% of the area, and pipes;
installation of gypsum fiber sheets for structural strength;
installation of the coating.

If the room is heated from a radiator heating system, then the underfloor heating can be laid from the system.

How to make a warm floor from heating?

Installation of underfloor heating without changing the boiler becomes even faster. Therefore, now you will receive tips on how to easily make a warm floor from heating.

Must have circulation pump... In the case when the system is one-pipe, then the connection of the water supply pipe is carried out before the pump is connected. The second pipe must be connected after the pump.

Floor preparation, screed and contour laying are done according to the previous instructions. Pay attention to the difference in formulations, as the screed mixture affects the proper functioning of the floor.

At the same time, it is very important to take into account all the features of the heated room, possible heat loss and know exactly how to make a water-heated floor correctly.

How to make warm electric floors?

Electric underfloor heating heats the room using not water as a heat source, but an electric cable with multilayer insulation. Heating occurs due to the passage of an electric current.

Three types of special cables are used:

Resistive single-core. The cheapest and easiest. Both ends must be connected to the mains. Creates an electromagnetic field that can affect human health;
Two-core resistive. Has heating and conductive cores. Connects at one end;
Self-regulating cable. Special couplings are heated. Does not overheat. The most convenient and the most expensive.

How to install a warm electric floor?

Removing the previous coating, leveling the surface, using a cement-sand screed;

The thermostat must be located at least at a distance of at least 30 cm from the floor, and in rooms with high level humidity - to be taken out of their limits.

Room layout. Under no circumstances should a warm floor be installed if furniture without legs or plumbing will stand on top. It is also important to take into account when calculating the distance from the walls and heating elements;

Thermal insulation laying. Penofol can become an insulating material in cases where a warm floor is an additional heating system. If the apartment is heated from below, then you can use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 20 to 50 cm. If the floor is installed on a loggia or veranda, then it is better to use mineral wool as thermal insulation;
Placing the electric cable with a snake.

The cable can be fastened in different ways:

on a reinforcing mesh;
on a thin layer of screed, to which a plasticizer and microfiber were added;
use heating mats (fiberglass mesh, to which the electric cable is already attached at a certain pitch) to obtain thin warm floors.

Installation of the temperature sensor. The corrugated tube is laid from the junction box to the heating zone 40 cm. The tube should go exactly between the cable, in the center. We close the end of the tube with a plug.

Introduction of the placement of the main elements into the laying scheme.

Don't forget the power outlet. It should be installed a short distance from the floor.

Test run of the system. Checking the resistance of the cable and checking the value with the passport data.

Rooms with a high humidity coefficient require grounding of the reinforcing mesh and grounding to the regulator.

The mixture for the warm floor is poured in a small layer: the mortar needs a cement-sandy one, with the addition of plasticizers. Or a specialized mixture for underfloor heating screeds.

The first start-up of the system is possible only after a month, since the concrete screed will not dry out earlier and may deform when switched on early.

Laying the floor covering.

To set different temperature parameters for each room, you need to install separate heating systems.

How to install an infrared thermal film floor?

Such a warm floor is placed under the tiles, as it is very thin. Most easy way make a warm floor with your own hands, given the ease of installing the thermal film:

calculation of the area of infrared thermal film, taking into account the placement of furniture in the room (you cannot lay the film under furniture without legs);
cleaning the surface of the base floor;
coating with a heat-reflecting substrate, the reflecting plane must be on top;
strips of thermal film are rolled out with a copper strip down. They are fixed with construction tape. It is important that the stripes do not overlap;
installation of rivets required for connecting wires. In those places where the connection will be, it is recommended to use either bitumen or insulating tape;
the exit points of the copper floor are sealed with insulating, bitumen and again insulating tape;
connection of wires with insulating tape;
connecting the temperature sensor to the black strip;
cutouts for the temperature sensor and for the wires located inside under the floor. This is necessary for maximum evenness. work surface... The wires in the groove are sealed with tape;
installation of a thermostat;
connecting the thermostat to the mains;
performance check;
laying cover for protection. Such a cover can be polyethylene film or the sole of the laminate;
topcoat. A laminate is placed directly on top of the thermal foil. If another is used instead decorative coating, then the film must be installed on protective covering and attach to the primary floor as neatly as possible.

It is best not to use tapes longer than 7 meters. In no case should you damage the graphite plates, attach the strips with self-tapping screws or staples, otherwise they may disrupt the heat supply process.

Make ? That's the question. Different kinds that have both their advantages and disadvantages. Now an option has appeared on the market that combines electric and water into one warm floor and is a thin warm floor.

Reading the beginning of the article on how to make a warm floor, you probably thought about what a capillary floor is.

This is an autonomous closed system of tubes through which liquid circulates under low pressure, and an electrical unit that heats the coolant. Since this is an ultra-thin warm floor, you should carefully fill in the mixture for the underfloor heating screed, so as not to overdo it with the thickness. Its main parameter is designed to heat the air in small rooms.

To heat large rooms, several circuits are needed

The installation starts like an electric one - with the control unit fixing. Further, the capillary tubes are installed in the same way as when installing a water floor in a screed.

Liquid electric floor

These are systems with a static coolant and a special cable along the entire length of the pipes, which heats a special antifreeze in the circuit. This is a very thin warm floor, so you need to make screeds very carefully.

The process of installing such a floor is carried out in the same way as a water one in a screed, with the only difference that the ends of the pipe are led out to the junction box.

Installing a warm floor under the furniture according to the above instructions is easy, and DIY installation will be much more economical. Now you can make a warm floor in the bedroom, nursery, kitchen and other rooms without fear of mounting something wrong.

You can also use any type to install a warm floor in the kitchen under the tiles. Knowing what a warm floor is, you can easily choose the appropriate options, and also tell others about the floors how to make their easy and independent installation.

If you make a warm floor with your own hands, be sure to adhere to the installation and operation rules written by the manufacturer.

Choosing the option of water heated floors, also called hydraulic, as heating, you will have to thoroughly try with their installation. Of all the possible types of underfloor heating, water is the most difficult to install, however, the result is a durable one that allows you to achieve greater comfort and savings than a traditional radiator system. You can somewhat reduce the cost of installation if you install a water-heated floor with your own hands. To do this, you need to purchase everything necessary elements and materials, as well as prepare the surface of the floors in all involved rooms in accordance with the established requirements.

If you have not yet fully decided on the type of warm floor -.

Surface preparation. Features of warming the base under the warm floor

The old screed is completely dismantled down to the base. Unlike when installing a warm floor, you should level the floor horizontally at the initial stage if there are differences of more than 10 mm.

Important: When using a water underfloor heating, in the device of which there are several circuits, the damper tape is also laid along the line between the circuits.

In order for the heat not to go down, it is necessary to insulate the base of the floor. Depending on the location of the room and the type of floor, as well as the target orientation of the heating system, the appropriate insulation is selected:

If the warm floor is an addition to the main heating system, then it is enough to use polyethylene foam with a reflective foil coating as a substrate for the warm floor (penofol).
For apartments with heated rooms on the floor below, it is sufficient to use sheets of expanded polystyrene or extruded polystyrene foam with a thickness of 20 to 50 mm or other durable insulation of a suitable thickness.
For apartments on the first floor with an unheated basement or houses where the floor is located on the ground, more serious insulation should be used in the form of a mound of expanded clay and expanded polystyrene sheets 50-100 mm thick.

Advice: You can use specialized heaters for warm floors. On the one hand, such materials are already equipped with special channels for laying pipes for underfloor heating systems.

A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the insulation. It is necessary to fix the screed layer, which will cover the entire underfloor heating system. Among other things, it is possible to fix the floor heating pipe to the mesh later, instead of using special fastening strips and clips. In this case, ordinary plastic ties are used.

Scheme of the device of the surface of the warm floor

Selection of materials and necessary devices

Before making a warm floor with your own hands, you should decide on the composition of the equipment and all elements of the system and calculate the materials.

The composition and arrangement of a warm water floor includes the following elements:

Water heating boiler;
Booster pump (can be included in the boiler);
Ball valves at the boiler inlet;
Distribution pipes;
Collector with a system for setting and adjusting warm floors;
Pipes for laying on the floor surface;
Various fittings for laying the main route from the boiler and connecting the underfloor heating pipes to the collector.

The pipe material for a water-heated floor can be either polypropylene or cross-linked polyethylene. It is better to choose polypropylene pipes with fiberglass reinforcement, since polypropylene itself has a significant linear expansion when heated. Polyethylene pipes are less prone to expansion. It was the latter that were most widespread when assembling surface systems heating.

Pipes with a diameter of 16-20 mm are used. It is necessary that the pipe withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees and a pressure of 10 bar. You don't have to chase expensive options with oxygen shields and extra coats. Especially if the main task is to reduce total costs for the installation of warm floors.

The collector is a branch pipe with a number of branches (splitter). It is necessary to connect several underfloor heating circuits to one main supply line warm water and return, chilled intake. In this case, two splitters are used, which are installed in a special manifold cabinet. One is for distributing hot water, and the other is for collecting cooled back water. It is the collector that contains all the necessary elements for adjusting the warm floors: valves, flow controllers, air vents and emergency drain systems.

Scheme-example of connecting a water-heated floor

Calculation and distribution of pipes

For each room, the calculation of the length of the pipe and the step of its installation must be made separately. Calculations of a water-heated floor can be performed through specialized programs or using the services of design organizations. Calculate yourself required power for each circuit is very difficult, while taking into account a lot of parameters and nuances. If you allow a flaw in the calculations, this can negate the entire operation of the system or lead to unpleasant consequences, including: insufficient water circulation, the manifestation of a "thermal zebra", when warm and cold areas alternate on the floor, uneven floor heating and the formation of leaks heat.

For calculations, the following parameters are required:

Room dimensions;
Material of walls, ceilings and thermal insulation;
Heat insulation type for underfloor heating;
Floor covering type;
Diameter of pipes in the underfloor heating system and material;
Boiler power (water temperature).

From this data, you can determine the required length of the pipe used for the room and the step of its installation to achieve the required heat transfer power.

When distributing pipes, the optimal laying route should be chosen. It is important to take into account that the water passing through the pipes gradually cools down. By the way, this is not a drawback, but rather a plus of water heated floors, because heat loss in the room does not occur evenly.

When distributing pipes for a water-heated floor in each circuit, a number of rules should be followed:

It is advisable to start laying pipes from the outer, colder walls of the room;

Important: If the entry of pipes into the room is not from the side of the outer wall, then the section of the pipe from the entry to the wall is insulated.

To gradually reduce the heating of the floor from the outer wall to the inner walls, a "snake" laying method is used;
For uniform floor heating in rooms with all inner walls(in the bathroom, wardrobe, etc.), laying is used in a spiral from the edge of the room to the center. The pipe is brought in a spiral to the center with a double pitch between the turns, after which it unfolds and unwinds in the opposite direction until it leaves the room and to the collector.

Most often, the pipe is laid in increments of 10 to 30 cm.In most cases, 30 cm is enough, and in places with increased heat loss it can be reduced to 15 cm.

In addition to the length and shape of the distribution of pipes, their hydraulic resistance should be calculated. It rises with increasing length and every turn. In all circuits connected to the same collector, it is desirable to bring the resistance to the same value. To resolve such situations, it is necessary to divide large circuits with a pipe length of more than a hundred meters into somewhat smaller ones.

For each circuit, a single piece of pipe of the required length is purchased. It is unacceptable to use joints and couplings on pipes that fit into the screed. So the calculation of the length and the order should be carried out after carefully carried out calculations with the thought of the entire laying route.

Important: The calculation is carried out for each room separately. It is also undesirable to use one circuit for heating several rooms.

To insulate the loggia, veranda, attic, a separate contour is laid, not combined with the adjacent rooms. Otherwise, most of the heat will go to heating it, and the room will remain cold. Warming under a warm floor is performed in the same way as with a floor located on the ground. Otherwise, there are no differences in terms of installing a warm floor on the loggia.

Video: theoretical seminar on the installation of underfloor heating

Selecting and installing a collector

typical collector for underfloor heating

Having decided on the number of circuits, you can select the appropriate collector. It must have enough pins to connect all circuits. In addition, the collector is responsible for the regulation and adjustment of water heated floors. In the simplest version, the manifold is equipped only with shut-off valves, which significantly reduces the cost of the system, but practically makes it impossible to adjust its operation.

Slightly more expensive options are those that include the installation of control valves. With their help, you can adjust the water flow for each loop separately. The increase in cost, although it will be noticeable, but such a system will allow you to set up a warm floor for uniform heating of all rooms.

Mandatory elements for the manifold are an air vent valve and a drain.

To fully automate the hydraulic underfloor heating, collectors with servo drives on the valves and special pre-mixers are used, which regulate the temperature of the supplied water, mixing it with cooled back water. Such systems at their cost can make up a large part of the budget for the entire installation of underfloor heating. For private use, there is no special need for them, because it is easier to carefully configure the collector group once more simple type than to spend on automatic system, which will work in the same mode under constant loads.

An example of connecting a floor heating collector

The underfloor heating collector is installed in a special collector box. The thickness of such a box is most often 12 cm. The dimensions are selected taking into account the dimensions of the collector group with all the necessary additions in the form of pressure sensors, air vents and drains. Under the collector group there should be a space to the floor necessary for bending the supplied pipes from all the contours of the warm floor.

The actual installation of a water-heated floor begins with the placement of a collector cabinet. Place the manifold cabinet so that the pipes from each room and circuit are approximately equal in length. In some situations, it is possible to bring the cabinet closer to the largest contours.

The easiest way to hide a wardrobe is to mount it in the wall. The thickness of 12 cm allows it. The main thing to consider is that to punch holes and recesses in load-bearing walls strongly discouraged and even prohibited in most cases.

Important: The box should be installed above the level of warm floors, not allowing pipes to drain upward from it. Only in this case the air exhaust system will be able to adequately work.

The manifold cabinet is assembled and filled according to a general standard according to the instructions of the manifold used, so that problems with the installation of all elements and additional equipment will not arise.

Video: Assembling the Collector

Heating boiler selection

The choice of a boiler is primarily determined by its capacity. It must cope with water heating at peak moments of system loading and have some power reserve. Roughly, this means that the power of the boiler should be equal to the total power of all underfloor heating plus a margin of 15-20%.

A pump is required to circulate water in the system. V modern boilers, both electric and gas, there is a built-in pump. In most cases, it is sufficient for heating one- and two-story residential buildings. Only if the area of the heated room exceeds 120-150 m², it may be necessary to install additional auxiliary pumps. In this case, they are installed in remote collector cabinets.

Shut-off valves are installed directly at the boiler inlet and outlet. This will help turn off the boiler in case of repair or maintenance without having to drain all the water from the system.

Important: If there are several collector cabinets, then a splitter is installed on the main route for supplying warm water, and after it - narrowing adapters. This is necessary to distribute water evenly throughout the system.

general view of the entire system (connection of radiators can be excluded)

Installation of water underfloor heating pipes and screed filling

Basically, the underfloor heating is laid using special fastening profiles, which are fixed to the floor with dowels and screws. They have sockets for fastening pipes. With their help, it is much easier to maintain the pitch distance between the turns of the pipe.

Advice: For fastening, it is enough to use plastic ties, which press the pipe against the reinforcing mesh. It is important not to pull the pipe too tightly, it is better that the screed loop is free.

Pipes are most often supplied in the form of coils. Do not pull the pipe out of the coil coil by coil. It is necessary to unwind it gradually as it is laid and secured to the floor. All bends are made carefully, observing the restriction on the smallest possible radius. Most often, for polyethylene pipes, this radius is equal to 5 diameters.

If you squeeze the plastic pipe too much, a whitish line may appear on the bend. This means that the material began to stretch sharply and formed a hall. Unfortunately, such defects cannot be placed in the underfloor heating system due to the increasing risks of a breakthrough in this place.

The ends of the pipes that lead to the collector, if necessary, are laid through the walls and enclosed in a polyethylene foam insulation. To connect the pipes to the manifold, either a Eurocone system or a compression fitting is used.

If this is the first time you come across polypropylene pipes – .

There are several schemes for laying pipes for underfloor heating. You can choose the right one based on your needs. Along with other factors, attention should be paid to the arrangement of furniture and plans for its rearrangement.

When the installation of the underfloor heating is completed, a mandatory system check is performed under high pressure. To do this, water is poured into the pipes and a pressure of 5-6 bar is applied for 24 hours. If no leaks or significant expansions are noticed on the pipes, then you can start pouring the concrete screed. The filling is carried out with the connected working pressure in the pipes. Only after 28 days can we consider that the screed is ready, and proceed to further work for installing flooring.

Important nuances of the formation of underfloor heating screed

There are some peculiarities in the formation of a screed over water-heated floors. This is due to the principle of heat distribution in its thickness and used flooring.

If the underfloor heating is laid under the tiles, then a screed about 3-5 cm thick should be made, or the pipes should be distributed with an interval of 10-15 cm.Otherwise, the heat from the pipes will not properly warm up the space between them, and such a phenomenon will appear like a "heat zebra". At the same time, the alternation of warm and cold stripes will be quite clearly felt by the foot.
For laminate, linoleum, etc. it is desirable to form a screed thinner. For strength, in this case, another reinforcing mesh is used over the warm floor. This will reduce the heat path from the pipes to the floor surface. Also, a layer of heat insulator does not fit under the laminate, because it will only worsen the efficiency of the warm floor.

You can turn on heating with a water-heated floor at the first hints of the beginning of the autumn cold. The initial warm-up may take several days, after which the system will already maintain the required temperature. The high inertness of water-heated floors can also play a good role, even if for some reason the boiler cannot heat the water for some time, the system will still give off heat to the rooms for a long time. In addition, you can keep the underfloor heating system on low power throughout the year, disconnecting most of the circuits and leaving only the part that heats the rooms where the flooring is made of ceramic tiles or self-leveling floors(entrance hall, bathroom, etc.), because even in hot weather, such coatings feel cold.

Video: Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor

Underfloor heating is an excellent option for creating a comfortable temperature in the room. Cool tiles pleases only in summer, and even then not always, but in winter barefoot on a cold floor is completely unpleasant. Installation of a warm floor will create acceptable conditions for the operation of any decorative flooring, no matter whether it is laminate or ceramic.

Today there are 2 large groups of underfloor heating - hot water and electric. The first option is very laborious to install, but economical to operate. The second, on the contrary, can be installed even for a beginner, but electricity bills will increase significantly. In this article, we will tell you how the installation of a water-heated floor is going on and what you need to pay attention to.

general information

Before talking about the technology of installing a warm water floor, let's figure out the very concept of such an installation.

So, underfloor heating is one of the variations in space heating, the most important feature of which is a large heat-transfer surface with constant air convection. In other words, with the same power of radiators and underfloor heating, it will be warmer in the room where the last option is installed.

In order for the scheme of laying a warm floor to be as clear as possible for perception, it is worth first recalling the traditional scheme of water heating. The main heat-dissipating elements in such a circuit are radiators. The air masses, heating up from the walls of the radiator sections, rush upward, as they cool down, they go down, and such circulation occurs constantly.

Typical pipe laying schemes

Of course, modern batteries heat the room well, but there are also many cold areas. Basically, this is the space near the floor surface, which does not warm up to the end.

Features of the floor system

The technology of installing water-heated floors is characterized by a slightly different picture. The heating pipe element is located directly in the cavity of the floor covering, and if this system is installed correctly, the heat coming from the source will be distributed evenly over the entire area of the room.

As a result, the heat flows of air masses begin their upward movement directly from the coating itself, providing more comfortable conditions for a person. In addition, the legs are in constant contact with the floor, and when this surface is warm, it is impossible to freeze even in light clothing.

A water-heated floor, the installation of which, although difficult, is quite within the power of inexperienced craftsmen, in most cases is used as the main heating system for a house, apartment or a separate room. And if electric floors can only be laid in a separate area, then mount water system heating is too difficult to occupy only a couple of square meters.

What you need to know before installing

If you plan to use hot water as a heat carrier, the point of operation of such a system is quite simple. Instead of batteries connected to centralized heating, a flexible special pipeline is laid under the covering, through which hot water will be circulated. Such an installation can operate from a stand-alone gas boiler.

It is forbidden to connect water underfloor heating in apartment buildings to the centralized mains. As a result of the operation of the equipment, the pressure in the entire riser will drop and the temperature may not be enough to reach the upper floors.

Connection to the central network is allowed only in private houses, but this option is not ideal either, since you will have to wait for the moment the heating is supplied. Moreover, due to regular breakdowns of communications, the risk of being left without heating is quite high. Accordingly, the most rational option for installing warm water floors is either private house, or individual heating in a high-rise building.

Why thermal insulation is needed

According to the rules for installing warm water floors, an obligatory stage of work is the laying of insulation under the pipeline. Often hired craftsmen overlook this, which leads to significant heat loss.

So, why do you need such material at all:

To create a heat reflecting screen to keep heat out of the lower floors. Due to this ability, all the heat coming from the pipe is reflected and moves up into the room, but not into the interfloor space and not into the neighboring apartment.
The underlay is necessary to distribute heat evenly over the entire surface. In its absence, the heating of the floor will not be entirely, but in separate fragments where the pipe lies.
Modern insulating mats are equipped with clamps, thanks to which the pipes are easily fixed and do not move when they are poured with concrete screed. Also, with the help of such clamps, it is easy to maintain a given pitch between the turns.

Coefficient of thermal conductivity

If you put carpet, linoleum and other materials that do not conduct heat on top of the internal heating system, then its efficiency will be minimized. Therefore, it is worth considering the properties of the materials and laying such that will not interfere with the transfer of heat.

The coefficient of thermal conductivity is an indicator that demonstrates the ability to transfer heat. The higher it is, the better material will pass the waves coming from the system. These include laminate flooring, ceramic tile, self-leveling floors, etc.

Subtleties of installation

The installation of a warm water floor is carried out according to a long-developed scheme, when the pipeline is located in a concrete screed. Why is that? Everything is simple enough. Firstly, heavy loads that pass through the pipes need reliable fastening and protection, and secondly, air is an excellent heat insulator, and therefore, if the pipes are in contact with air masses, then there is no sense from such a heating system.

First you need to clean and bring the floor surface one level. After that, you should check if there are any height differences. If they do not exceed 10 mm in height, you can proceed with the installation of a warm water floor.

If the difference exceeds 10 mm, it is necessary to use a self-leveling mixture that solidifies literally within 3-5 hours. But also traditional sand-cement mixture... A building level is used to check the straightness.

The next stage is the installation of a waterproofing film to protect the coolant from moisture. It is desirable that this be a foil covering. After that, along the perimeter of the wall ceilings, a damper tape is laid and fixed to the height of the warm floor.

Next, the insulation is laid, the thickness of which depends solely on your preferences. A layer of vapor barrier material is placed on top of the insulation.
Reinforcement. To do this you need to buy reinforcing mesh with cells of 18-20 cm, which will allow laying the pipeline without any problems. This step can be skipped if the insulation mats with clips are used.
Pipeline laying. First of all, you need to connect the pipe to the outlet of the collection unit for supply. If internal system- this is the only source of heating, then they are laid with a small step, the value of which does not exceed 20 cm.When this floor heating system is additional source comfort, then a wider laying step is allowed - up to 35 cm. The pipes are fastened to the mesh by means of special clips. The pipeline may expand slightly during heating, therefore it does not need to be rigidly fixed.

Each circuit is laid in one piece, without resorting to additional connections. Such connectors increase the risk of various leaks.

Checking systems for performance and reliability. A test run of a water-heated floor is carried out with an increase in pressure up to about 0.3 MPa per hour, the water temperature must remain unchanged.
After successfully passing the tests, in which no leaks and defects were found, you can start pouring the screed. Her maximum height should not exceed the mark of 70 mm, otherwise, the heat emanating from the pipes will not be enough to overcome the thickness of the concrete mixture.

If you doubt that you can independently carry out the installation of a warm water floor, it is better to contact professional craftsmen who will help you realize your plan.

Now you know what a water heat-insulated floor is, installation, video and photographic materials of which are presented in this publication.

VIDEO: How to assemble a water-heated floor with your own hands