Step-by-step instructions for self-installation of an interior door. Installing an interior door with your own hands: with and without a threshold Install an interior door with your own hands step by step instructions

Self assembly and the installation of door interior blocks does not require high qualifications or special skills from the performer. Consistent connection of parts in accordance with the instructions and careful installation in the doorway will allow you to get a satisfactory result even with the efforts of a beginner. You just need to stock up on the necessary tools and patience.

Ways to install interior doors

You can mount a door between rooms different ways. It all depends on what its design is and what material it is made of. door block. A significant role in the choice of one or another installation method is played by its intended purpose. If this is, for example, a door to the living room, then special strength is not required. But if the door separates the walk-through corridor from the server room, in which high-sensitivity devices or units with voltages over 1000 volts are located, then in the interests of safety it is advisable to install a door of increased strength. Accordingly, the installation method in the second case must meet completely different requirements.

There are the following ways of fastening the door block in the opening.

Fixing the frame on the mounting foam. The easiest, but not the most reliable way to install. Suitable for lightweight MDF or MDF doors of small size.
Mounting foam, when dried, firmly glues the door frame to the wall opening
Installation door frame on brackets. As a rule, all plastic doors (as well as windows) are mounted in this way. Metal plates are used as brackets, which are used for suspended ceilings. The thickness of the direct suspension is from 1 to 1.5 mm, so the mount is quite rigid. The main disadvantage of this method is the need to plaster the bracket attachment point. The method is applicable in the case when the finishing of the walls has not yet been done.
The ceiling hanger is used as a bracket for fixing the door frame
Concealed installation, i.e. fixing the door frame under the hinges in three places. The rest of the space is filled with foam. The result is a fairly strong and invisible to prying eyes mount. Frame suspension points are arranged in the following order:
- two - under the hinges;
- one - under the reciprocal lock bar.
through method. Installation is carried out using screws or anchors. Holes are drilled in the frame through which it is attached to the wall. Usually used two to four points fixings on each vertical rack and from one to two - on the vertical crossbars. To prevent the holes from being visible, they are covered with plastic plugs from above. This fastening is considered the most durable and is used for heavy doors, including metal and armored ones.
With direct fixation, the frame is rigidly attached to the wall and can hold a heavy and powerful door.
Hinged door frame. A new method developed relatively recently. Its essence lies in the fact that the box is hung on special loops. Anchors are installed at the ends of the opening, and metal loops are screwed onto the frame. During installation, the loop is put on the head of the adjustable bolt. The method is good in cases where the doorway is uneven. Installation is very fast.
A set of simple fasteners allows you to install the door in minutes

In practice, several methods are often used simultaneously, as well as combining and combining fixation methods, depending on specific situation. Anyway, mounting foam today they are almost always used, it serves not only as fasteners, but also as a heat-insulating and sound-absorbing layer.

Video: quick door installation technology in 15 minutes

What you need to install an interior door

As with any other installation work, for the successful installation of interior doors you need special tools and consumables.

Required Tools

Starting the self-assembly of interior doors, you need to arm yourself with the appropriate tool:

electric drill with a set of nozzles (for screws with different slots);
a set of drills for wood (the larger the range, the better);
A distinctive feature of a wood drill is a sharp tip
perforator (in the event that fastening is carried out on anchor devices);
electric or manual furniture saw ( perfect option- end circular saw);
With the help of a miter saw, workpieces for the door frame, platbands and additional elements
drill bits or drills for concrete (diameter 4 and 6 mm);
miter box, a set of chisels of different widths;
The miter box is designed for cutting parts at different angles.
measuring tool - hydraulic level, tape measure, square, etc.;
The accuracy of measurements during the assembly of interior doors is reflected in the quality of their further operation.
knife, pencil, marker.

You will also need consumables:

What cutters are needed to install interior doors

If there is an opportunity to buy or rent a router, you should definitely use it. With the help of a manual router, the selection for hinges and locks is significantly accelerated. There is no need for chisels, the quality of the grooves improves. In order to optimize the process, it is desirable to use small diameter cutters. Thanks to this, you will have to cut less wood in the corners by hand. For example, for door hinges, a cutter with a diameter of 9.5 mm is ideal. To select the lock, a groove cutter of the appropriate length is used (to the depth of insertion of the locking device).

The main characteristics of a groove cutter include the height and diameter of its working part, as well as the size of the shank for clamping the router

The average installation time for one door for a professional carpenter is 2 hours. If the hinges and the lock are cut in manually without using a router, this time increases to 3 hours.

Box saw

A few words about the electric saw. When installing one door, of course, it makes no sense to buy a "circular", especially an end one. You can use an ordinary hand saw with a small (furniture) tooth.

With a saw with fine, unset teeth, you can make even and clean cuts of parts.

But if a whole apartment is being built or reconstructed, in which from 5 to 15 doors are installed, you can at least think about renting a tool. The quality and speed of assembly using a miter saw increases several times. Much also depends on the type of doors and platbands. Some have to be cut to size, others require little to no cutting.

Preparing an opening for installing an interior door

The main task in preparing the doorway is:

removal of excess materials from the end of the wall (remnants of mounting foam, plaster, broken bricks, etc.);
creating the correct geometric shape of the hole in the wall (a rectangle, not a trapezoid).

If the brickwork is in poor condition, it must be plastered with cement mortar.

In new buildings, doorways should theoretically have dimensions close to standard. However, in practice this does not always happen. In a house or apartment where reconstruction is taking place, old doors must be dismantled before installing new ones. If at the same time the opening was damaged, it must be restored - leveled and plastered.

The following geometric parameters of the opening affect the quality of the installation of the door block.

Height

The height is measured from the “clean floor”, that is, from the level of the finishing floor covering - laminate, tile, linoleum, etc. It is necessary that the height be the same over the entire plane. A similar requirement applies to the floor - it should not have bumps and pits, especially if the installed door does not contain a threshold in its design - all defects will remain visible. The height of the opening should be 6-7 cm more than the vertical size of the door itself.

The dimensions of the doorway must take into account the technological tolerances for the installation of the frame and the necessary mounting clearances

Width

Similar requirements are imposed on the width of the opening - it must be the same over the entire height of the door. Vertical planes should be at right angles to the floor and be parallel. If this is not the case, the sidewalls must be leveled. The width of the doorway is determined based on the width door leaf- add 10 cm to it (5 cm on each side).

Thickness (or depth) of the opening

An important condition that must be observed when preparing the opening is that the end should have a rectangular shape. In the lower part, at the intersection with the floor, a right angle (90 °) should form. If the thickness of the walls is not the same, gaps will form under the platbands, which, in fact, is a marriage.

Video: preparing a doorway before installing an interior door

Do-it-yourself interior door installation: step by step instructions

Since the vast majority of doors in the surrounding life have a hinged design, we will consider the installation procedure using the example of a typical interior door.

The most common type of interior doors has a hinged opening mechanism.

Rules and procedure for installing interior doors

Installation of a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

Development of a scheme for fastening the door frame in the opening. At this stage, it is necessary to clearly imagine (or better, sketch) the method of attachment. In our case, this will be fixing with self-tapping screws and polyurethane foam. It is also necessary to decide on the side in which the door will open. If there is no pre-planned plan, the following hint will help solve the problem: in small rooms, such as a toilet, pantry and bath, it is customary to open the door inside. Exit to the corridors large rooms better to do outside.
The most common way to fix the frame in the doorway is to install it using anchoring on mounting foam.
Door frame installation. It is advisable to place the door that arrived from the store on a flat horizontal surface- table, chairs or on the floor and unpack. Assembly is carried out using self-tapping wood screws with a thickness of 3.5 mm. Before screwing the self-tapping screw, it is necessary to drill a hole that will not allow the wood blank (Fibreboard, MDF, Chipboard) to split. A drill with a smaller diameter is used, in particular 3 mm. For the same reasons, it is not necessary to screw screws close to the edge of the parts - the standard distance is at least 5 diameters, i.e. 1.5 cm. reliable fastening four screws are enough for the horizontal strips of the door frame - two on each side.
When assembling the frame on the floor, put cardboard from the package under the box
Cutting racks. Typically, the door frame is sold with a height margin of 5-7 cm. After fixing the side parts, it is necessary to measure Exact size and cut off the excess. To do this, the height of the opening is measured and transferred to the frame. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that a technological gap of 2–2.5 cm should remain between the box and the wall. Such a backlash is needed so that the frame can be aligned horizontally and vertically inside the opening.
Adjustment of the length of the side posts is carried out after measuring the height of the opening
Installation of the frame in the doorway. If up to this point the door leaf was inside the box, then to install the frame into the wall, the sash must be removed. The frame is installed in the allotted place and leveled with a level. Primary fixation is carried out with plastic or wooden wedges. It is very convenient to use a set of thin wedges, with their help you can accurately align the box in all axes. It should be remembered that the racks of the box must be vertical in two perpendicular planes - from the side of the canvas and from the side of the wall. The correct operation of the door block is 80% dependent on the correct position of the door frame. In a number of models of interior doors there is a special decorative strip, which is detached and drilled under it mounting holes. At the end of the installation, the bar is put in place. To fix the frame with screws, you need to drill 3-4 holes with a diameter of 4 mm on each rack and transfer them to the wall with a pencil or marker. After that, the box is removed and nests for dowels are drilled in the wall according to the markings. Do not forget that wood drills do not work in concrete. brickwork drilled with a perforator with a drill for stone. Drill diameter - 6 mm, according to the size of the plastic sleeve. When the holes are ready and the dowels are inserted into the wall, the frame returns to its original position and is pre-fixed (“baited”, as the masters say). Before the final tightening of the screws, the position of the vertical and horizontal parts of the box is once again controlled. The tightening is carried out in a circle, first the screws are twisted halfway, then with maximum effort. In order not to overtighten the fasteners, during tightening, the verticality of the racks is checked with a long two-meter level or rule.
The use of a construction laser level increases the accuracy of the installation of the door frame
Installing the door leaf on the hinges. Since we are considering a light interior door made of MDF or fiberboard, one person can hang the sash on the hinges. It is enough to lift the door above the canopies and carefully put it on the hinge axis. After that, the door leaf must be closed and checked for the correct location. If the door is mounted in compliance with all technological standards (gaps of 3–4 mm on each side), it will move easily inside the frame and without human effort. In the open state, the sash will not spontaneously slam shut, and in the closed state it will open. If the purchased door does not have grooves for hinges, you need to make them yourself. To do this, a cutter is inserted into the tool, the depth of immersion in the wood is adjusted, and a groove is selected according to a pre-marked size with a translational movement. accepted place hinge locations - 20–25 cm from the upper and lower edges of the sash.
The hinges are placed above and below at the same distance from the edges of the door leaf
Filling joints with polyurethane foam. This is a crucial moment, since such important parameters doors like sound insulation and heat resistance. It is better to use mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. To accelerate the setting and hardening of the polyurethane, the walls and the door frame are moistened with water (sprayed from a spray bottle). Filling is carried out sequentially, from the bottom up, so that there are no voids left, but at the same time, foam flakes do not fall to the floor. During the operation, it is advisable to cover the door with foil, as prolonged contact with polyurethane may cause stains on the laminated surface. As the foam dries, it increases in volume, so the seams are initially filled by 30-40%. After complete solidification (after 24 hours at an air temperature of 20 ° C), the excess is cut off with a sharp knife. During foaming and drying, it is not recommended to open the door leaf. It is advisable to put pieces of packaging cardboard into the gaps (along the perimeter). This will prevent deformation and deflection of the frame in case there is too much foam.
It is better to fill the mounting gaps with foam from the bottom up, carefully processing the voids
Doorway trim. Upon completion of the installation of the door, it is necessary to put the opening in order. To do this, slopes or platbands are installed in it. For interior doors, slope finishing is rarely done (although this is also practiced, depending on the installation location and the function of the door). The most common type of decoration is platbands and dobors. If the size of the wall is small and the width of the door frame coincides with it, platbands are installed on both sides and this finishes the opening. If the width of the box is not enough to close the wall completely, use extensions. With their help, the plane of the frame expands, and the platbands are no longer attached to the box, but to the extensions. It is interesting that designers sometimes consciously choose the colors of the extensions that contrast with the color of the door. Such solutions are original and emphasize the door as an element of the interior. Platbands are installed in several ways, depending on their design:
- groove connection;
- gluing to the wall;
- hidden nails.
Hardware installation. The door handle and lock are usually included with the door. Or at least mounting holes are prepared in the web. If they are not there, you need to mark the sash and use a milling cutter and an electric drill to cut holes of the required size (for pre-purchased components). This should be guided by the instructions for installing the lock and door handle, which are attached to the products. Approximate installation height door lock is 90-110 cm from the floor. The handle is mounted at the same height, retreating 10-15 cm from the edge of the door leaf.
The method of installing a door lock depends on its design, and it is usually located at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor

The type of connection of vertical platbands with horizontal ones can be different - rectangular or diagonal. From the point of view of installation, a rectangular connection is considered simpler. For a diagonal joint, it is important to make an accurate cutting of the workpieces at an angle of 45 °. To do this, the craftsmen use a circular saw. But with small volumes, a carpenter's miter box can also be used.

The diagonal connection of the architraves requires a perfectly even cut at an angle of 45 degrees, which is carried out using a miter box or a circular saw

Many modern models of interior doors contain a rubber seal in their design. Its installation is most often carried out by gluing. Removable from the inside protective film, and the sealant is carefully glued around the perimeter of the entire door leaf.

Video: how to install an interior door

Installation of double doors

Bi-fold door blocks are a popular interior decoration. They fit especially harmoniously into wide doorways, emphasizing the spaciousness in the room. Doors with two leaves are:

When assembling swing double doors the algorithm remains the same as for a single-leaf door. But there is one caveat associated with the door suspension. The first to be installed on the hinges is a sash with a latch, which cuts ahead of time into the upper part of the canvas. After installing the sash on the hinges, it is fixed with a latch and proceed to the installation of the other half of the door. Thus, the alignment of the canvases with respect to the frame and with each other is achieved. The gaps adopted for a single-leaf door are also relevant for a double-leaf version.

The latch holds the door leaf in a fixed position

The sliding design of double doors is different in that it does not have a frame in the usual sense. The door leaves are supported by a suspension profile equipped with a rocker mechanism. Naturally, the installation of such a door differs from the assembly of swing structures. Installation is carried out on straight walls with a sufficient margin of space (you need space for opening doors).

Around sliding door it is necessary to provide a margin of free space for the racks leaving when opening

Installation begins with the assembly and fastening of guide profiles (which can be both above and below the doorway). Further, the procedure must be carried out in this sequence.

Fastening on canvases of brackets with fittings (carriages and movable rollers).
The diagram of fastening the door leaf to the rocker mechanism, indicating the mass of the door leaf, is attached to each product.
Installation of shutters on the suspension mechanism.
Fastening of stoppers (rubber limiters for opening the valves).
With the help of the limiter, the free play of the door leaf is adjusted to protect it from impacts on nearby objects and surfaces
Installation of dobors and platbands on the doorway.
Installation of additional door fittings (brushes, seals, grips).

At the preparatory stage, the wall plane is marked and leveled. This is important because the door leaves are constantly moving along the walls.

The main document that you need to read when installing sliding doors is the assembly instructions from the manufacturer. It reflects technical requirements installation and basic rules of operation.

Video: installing a double swing door

It is customary to mount interior doors after indoors finishing works. In particular, it is not recommended to prime, plaster or paint the walls after the doors have been installed. High humidity adversely affects the wood-shaving material - deformation and bulges are possible structural elements door block.

Installation of interior sliding doors

The sliding door is one of the options for sliding interior doors. Unlike the double-leaf design, the interior compartment door can be single-leaf, three-leaf and even four-leaf. Moreover, one or two canvases can move at the same time. Installation is carried out in the same manner as for a sliding door in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Compartment doors save space in small spaces

Video: installation of interior compartment doors

Installation of sliding door structures

A characteristic feature of sliding interior doors is the movement of the door leaf along the support profile located on the floor. Installation is done after fine finish gender. The guide profile is installed in parquet, laminate, ceramic tiles or other flooring. Often the door leaf is hidden in the wall cavity, specially prepared for this.

Before installing the sliding door, a false wall is built to hide the sash

There are options for making a false wall or a drywall box-pencil case for sliding interior doors. But in any case, the suspension mechanism remains identical to that of all other types of sliding doors.

Video: installation of sliding interior doors

Installation of sliding interior doors

Sliding interior doors save space in small spaces. But for their installation, certain conditions are needed, the main of which is the availability of space for moving the door leaf. Sliding doors can be single leaf or double leaf. The supporting rocker mechanism is located, as a rule, from above, and a restrictive profile is mounted from below, which prevents the canvas from swinging during movement.

Used in planning various options the location of the canvas in the doorway

Installation of glass doors

Glass doors - very original solution for interior decoration. Like doors made of other materials, they are hinged and sliding. In private housing construction swing type glass doors are commonly used. In general, the principle and procedure for their installation does not differ from the standard one, however, there are several features.

The glass door leaf cannot be adjusted in size, it cannot be sawn or cut. Therefore, in order to avoid errors, the doors are ordered after finishing walls and doorway (when the dimensions are no longer changed).
Door installation is not done alone. The weight of a glass sheet is usually from 50 to 70 kg, it is difficult and dangerous for one person to manipulate such a sash.
The glass interior door is mounted on a wooden or metal box.
The durability of glass doors is only limited by the durability of the hinges. Pendulum loops are considered the most reliable.

To assemble the suspension of glass doors, mounting holes are cut in their leaf at the factory

Holes for the installation of hinges are cut at the glass door manufacturer. You need to drill holes for the lock and handle yourself, using a glass drill of the desired diameter.

Holes in the glass are drilled with special drills at low speeds.

The advantage of glass interior doors is an almost unlimited service life. Them appearance not subject to mechanical or chemical attack, the strength of the glass block is comparable to the strength of metal. The only thing to watch out for is the safety of the hinges and fittings. Timely lubrication and removal of contamination are two necessary conditions for long-term operation of glass interior doors.

Video: installing glass interior doors

Installation of fittings on interior doors

Installation of fittings, perhaps, is the most crucial moment in the installation of interior doors. It is during this part of the work that errors occur, leading to quick breakdowns. Therefore, starting self-assembly, you need to tune in to the painstaking "jewelry" work. Mistakes are too expensive.

So, accessories include:

All fittings require precise cutting into the plane of the door leaf or frame, and this presents a certain difficulty for beginner carpenters. The permissible error must not be exceeded by more than 1 mm. Otherwise, there are no firm guarantees for the stable operation of the mechanisms.

Sampling is done manually (chisels) or with the help of power tools. At this stage of work, a manual electric mill is used.

Thanks to its high speed operation, the router performs neat and clean cuts on wood

Work sequence

Installation of fittings on a swing interior door is carried out in the following order.

Markup. Before you start cutting a hole, you need to determine the location of the hinges. As noted above, in order to evenly distribute the weight of the canvas, the loops are located symmetrically 20–25 cm from the edges door leaf. The contours of the loop are drawn with a sharp pencil and circled around the perimeter with a knife, scalpel or semicircular chisel.
It is desirable to outline the contour of the loop with a sharp pencil, a thin awl or a scalpel
The device of a seat for loops. With a chisel, wood is gradually selected from the intended contour. It is necessary to control the depth of the groove within 2–3 mm. The accuracy of the cut is checked with a hinge - when it is applied to the specified place, the front part of the fittings must coincide with the surface of the end of the door. When sampling for hinges in MDF doors, the manual method is ineffective, it is advisable to use a milling cutter with a small diameter cutter.
The hinges must be flush with the surface of the canvas
Preparation of recesses in the frame. Having made the grooves and installed the hinges in them, they proceed to the manufacture of similar seats in the door frame.
Installing interior door handle. The operation consists in cutting out a seat for the lock and holes for installation rotary knob. It is difficult to do without a milling cutter, especially for a person who does not have carpentry experience. Using a long cutter, a groove of a certain depth is selected for the lock. With a small cutter, cut out the pot for the lock plate and striker. To accurately determine the location of the lock tongue, it is smeared with a coloring matter (nail polish, chalk, paint) and released onto the frame. In the indicated place, a hole in the reciprocal plate is installed.
The production of grooves for the door lock is carried out using a milling cutter
Bolt installation. It is carried out depending on the design of the locking element. As a rule, the installation of a high-quality latch involves the selection of a masking groove. The device is applied to the edge of the door leaf, its shape is outlined and a groove is cut along it.

Video: inserting a lock into interior doors

How to check the correct installation of an interior door

Everyone who has to install interior doors for the first time asks questions: is the door mounted correctly and what needs to be done so that it lasts a long time and properly. They have an exhaustive answer, which consists of two points.

A sign of a correctly carried out installation is the same technological gaps around the perimeter of the entire web. This means that if the gap around the sash is the same size everywhere, the canvas is hung correctly.
The door must pass a small test. When opening (and closing) the canvas, no extraneous sounds, squeaks, rustles (rubbing of one surface against another) should be heard. At the same time, the sash moves easily, without applying any effort. If the hand stops, the canvas stops, it should not move on its own.

If these two conditions are met, the door is installed in accordance with technical and operational standards.

Often the installation of an interior door is preceded by dismantling. Disassembly is carried out in the reverse order of assembly.

Decor elements are detached - platbands and extensions. In this case, use a mount or a large screwdriver. decorative elements can be reused, so do not break them during dismantling. If these parts are kept intact, they can be painted, pasted over with a laminated film and used when installing a new door.
Platbands are removed using a mount or an ax
Hardware is removed from the door leaf - locks and handles. Unscrewing the lock is carried out from the end of the door leaf. The rotary handle mount is located on one side of the door (at the bottom of the lever).
The door leaf is removed. To do this, the sash is opened at an angle of 90 o with respect to the frame and lifted by the lower edge using a crowbar, mount or other lever. After the canvas is removed from the hinges, the canopies can be detached and reused.
To remove the canvas from the hinges, it is rotated 90 degrees and lifted using the lever
The door frame is removed. To disassemble the frame with the least effort, it is necessary to determine the places of its fixation to the wall. Sometimes it is difficult to do this in old doors, especially if slopes from cement mortar. Then an ordinary electric jigsaw will come to the rescue. If the frame is not going to be used in the future, it can be cut into cross section and separate from the wall in parts. This greatly speeds up the dismantling process. In the same way, the upper crossbar is also released.
With the help of power tools, the dismantling of doors is accelerated several times

If there is no firm self-confidence, of course, it is better to turn to professional installers, because correct execution assembly and installation is not the only thing, but necessary condition for long-term operation of interior doors. But if you have at least a little experience in carpentry, and the operations described in this article do not cause you to doubt the possibility of repeating them, feel free to proceed with installing the door yourself. You can save money and be absolutely sure of the quality of each action.

At installation of interior doors in an apartment should be carried out according to certain rules that customers should know. After all, about Mistakes in the repair and decoration of a room or apartment can seriously complicate installation and cost a pretty penny!

You will be able to reduce the cost of installation, avoid mistakes in the choice of doors and fittings, and help the craftsmen to do everything with high quality.

Door opening dimensions

opening width

The door leaf is usually 60/70/80/90 cm wide. The correct width of the opening is the width of the canvas +8 or +9 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is from 1.5 cm to 2.5), or +10 cm (if the thickness of the box in its narrowest part is 2.5 cm and above ).

opening height

For all cases, the correct height of the opening is the height of the door leaf + 6cm. from the finishing floor., i.e. 206cm. The doors to the bathroom can be 190 cm high, so the correct opening height is 196 cm.

Here are some examples of correct openings.:

Canvas 80x200(cm) - opening 89x206(cm)
70x200 - opening 79x206
60x200 - opening 69x206
60x190 - opening 69x196

The dimensions of the doorways must be determined in advance and it is very important to independently constantly monitor your team during the repair process.

Door width for different rooms

If you have the opportunity to plan the width of doors and openings in advance and have questions about what door width to choose, then follow these recommendations:

doors in rooms are usually made 80 cm wide in order to be able to bring in / take out furniture. Width 90cm. it happens very rarely, since such canvases are heavy and can eventually sag on the hinges.
the doors in the bathroom are usually made 60-70 cm so that washing machine 60cm thick. Keep in mind that 60cm. the door assembly has a clear opening of approximately 58cm. because of the porches in the door frame.
the door leaf to the kitchen is usually made 70-80cm. It should also be taken into account that the handles on both sides can interfere with the passage to the kitchen.
in dressing room usually make the width 60-70cm.

When do you need to install extensions?

When installing interior doors, if the thickness of the wall is greater than the thickness of the door frame, it is recommended to purchase. You can, of course, stick wallpaper on the ends of the walls, but it will look out of date, and there will be nothing to nail trim on the other side of the wall.

If installed, it will be a good solution that will beautifully decorate the slopes. The color of the extensions can be chosen, for example, under the MDF panel:

The width of standard extensions according to the warehouse program is usually 10/12/15/20 cm. If your walls are very thick (more than 20 cm), then the extensions must be spliced in width or non-standard extensions should be ordered at the factory, which will cost much more.

On which side of the door should the extensions be installed?

It depends entirely on how you planned the opening. Usually, if your door opens into a room, then the box is flush with the room wall, and the extension will be in the corridor, respectively.

If you do the opposite, the door will not open fully (it will rest against the extension). Sometimes they put up with this so that the doors look the same - ALL extensions to the corridor or all extensions to the rooms. Therefore, this is already a matter of convenience and design, taking into account the future arrangement of furniture in the apartment.

Scheme of opening interior doors

Usually, if in one corridor some of the doors will open into the corridor, and some into the rooms, the closed doors will look different due to the features of the door frame. If the doors are next to each other, and at the same time open one inward and the other outward, then the height of the upper trim will not match.

This is what the door looks like from the common corridor, which opens into the corridor, that is, towards us:
This is how the door that opens into the room looks like, that is, inside:
It is necessary to ensure that the canvas does not cover the switch when torn off. It is highly desirable that the doors do not intersect with their trajectories. The bathroom must be provided with a 180-degree opening for quick ventilation after taking water procedures.

Make sure that a door opened 90 degrees does not block the opening of an adjacent door.

In order not to waste time coordinating the opening of doors with the masters during installation, make a diagram on a piece of paper in advance.

How high from the floor should the door be?

Standard height - 1 cm from the finished floor. As for the doors of the bathrooms, it is not recommended to do less than 1 cm so as not to disturb the air flow. If you have plastic windows do not forget to make supply valves for air from the street so as not to increase the humidity in the apartment too much when the windows are closed.

Installation of interior doors during the repair of an apartment and the sequence of stages of work.

In order to protect the wooden parts of the doors from warping due to high humidity when carrying out repairs, it is necessary to do the installation after ALL finishing work, including in neighboring rooms.

Early installed doors can be accidentally damaged by tools during the repair process. Tile or wallpaper glue, especially plaster, dry for quite a long time, releasing moisture into the room. Humidity levels above 70% for several days increase the risk that doors will pick up moisture from the air, swell, and stop closing properly.

However, if you like to wash your bathtub or shower often, humidity is not a threat, as the bathroom is quickly ventilated.

Installation of interior doors should be done if you already have a finished floor!

Without doors, it is much easier to lay floor coverings, and then it is easier to install them, with a clear adjoining of the trim to the floor.

If you first install the box directly on the screed (main floor), then it is impossible to bring the flooring under the box, since it is already on the floor. In addition, it is difficult for the master to correctly calculate the lower clearance of the door from the subfloor, taking into account the future coating, especially if the floor has not been leveled.

If you did everything right and did the installation after laying the finished floor, it will not be difficult to replace the floor in the future - you just need to pull out the laminate or parquet from under the door pillars and slip a new coating. In this case, the racks will not fall, but will remain hanging.

What if the doorway is much higher (wider) than the box?

A common mistake of repair crews is too high openings, because the maximum height should not be higher than 208~209 cm, and 206 cm is better. from the floor covering.

Sometimes in new buildings standard opening can be 217-220cm high. This is due to the fact that many customers make underfloor heating and the height after their installation becomes standard. If no one paid attention to this during the repair, and a situation arose when the upper casing did not close the opening.

Solution: if your opening is higher than necessary, and there is no possibility to reduce the opening, glue the wallpaper lower before installing the doors, or order high capitals instead of the upper casing, but they are usually mounted from the side of the corridor. A more thorough way is to lower the height of the opening with drywall and wooden blocks and then glue the wallpaper.

Another option: if the platbands are flat, cut off at the joints at 90 degrees, and the upper platband is cut out of the wider extensions. Some customers get out of the situation this way. The disadvantage is that sometimes the additional strips are thicker than the casing, and that if you do this for all the doors in the apartment, it will look a little wild)).

If the opening is at least 2-3 cm wider than necessary from the sides, the foam joint will not have sufficient strength, and this is important, since the mounting foam helps maintain even gaps and ensures the overall resistance of the door to loads.

Solution: narrow the doorway with a wooden beam with a section of 3x5, 5x5 or at the repair stage using foam blocks and tile adhesive.

How to straighten a crooked doorway?

First you need to check the walls to the right and left of the opening for humps / depressions by attaching a long rule, an extension or a flat board to the wall. Especially often humps are found closer to the floor. Even one small hump will interfere with the tight fit of the casing to the wall.

To solve this problem, there is only one option: to plaster and level the walls. If you do not want or cannot level the walls in the entire apartment or wall, then do it only around the openings (about 50 cm wide) and paste the wallpaper.

Then you need to check the verticality of the walls using a laser or bubble level. The ends of the openings must be parallel, the walls must be even and strictly vertical. If the opening is curved, the walls are sloping, there are humps or depressions, act according to circumstances.

If you understand that the opening is a curve, and moves away from the vertical by more than 1 cm - you can level the walls with plaster according to the lighthouses, putting them on a vertical level and re-paste the wallpaper. As you already understood, this is the best and most difficult solution!

How to install a door in a curved opening?

But what if there is no way to level the wall? Let's say the wall in which the door is supposed to be installed is littered from the vertical by more than 1 cm per two meters of the height of the opening. Then you have three options:

Install the door frame along the plane of the wall, the architraves will fit snugly against the wall, but the door will also be tilted and, probably, will close on its own, slam, etc.
Install the box vertically in level, while the platbands fit in the upper part and move away from the wall by the amount of wall deviation from the vertical in the lower part (or vice versa), worsening the aesthetics.
Buy a door with telescopic architraves and install it straight, deepening a little into the wall and pulling out, where necessary, the architraves from the grooves. This is a good solution to the problem, unless you need to open the door 180 degrees, as opening the door leaf more than 100 degrees will pull out the hinges.

The choice is yours, in all cases there are minuses and there are pluses, because this is a compromise.

What if the door is close to the wall?

In such an opening, one wall is perpendicular to the other wall, and it is necessary to reduce the width of the architraves, and attach them close to the wall on both sides. But reducing the platbands in width, we still spoil the appearance of the door, see photo: However, there are several other options for solving this problem:

If the repair has already been made and wallpaper is glued to the walls, you can fasten a wooden bar with a section of 3x6, 3x4 or 4x4 (no more) to such a wall. It becomes possible to install a whole platband close to the wall.
Increase the doorway at least 5 cm from the wall and cut off the same distance from the opposite wall of the opening at the repair stage. The platband will be located at a small distance from the wall, which looks much more beautiful.
Increase the doorway at the repair stage by 5 cm on both sides and order doors 10 cm less wide, for example 70 cm. instead of 80cm..

Setting the interior threshold

The door leaf is located in the opening closer to that part of the wall where the door will open, so the threshold covering the floor joint with the door closed should be located under the door leaf and then it will not be visible when the door is closed, see photo:

A common mistake of repair teams is the wrong location of the sills! To avoid such a mistake, draw a scheme for opening all doors in advance and give it to the foreman before laying the finishing floors.

Installation of interior doors in the bathroom

For living rooms and kitchens, it is recommended to order doors 2 meters high. For bathrooms in new homes, a canvas 1 m high is often required. 90cm due to the presence of waterproofing and special high thresholds. If you missed this moment and did not order doors with a height of 190 cm, then you need to expand the opening in height or, alternatively, you can shorten the door.

If you increase the opening in height, then the upper mark of the doors to the bathroom and interior doors will be at different levels. If the door is cut from below, then the panel pattern is lowered. Therefore, sometimes it is better to order smooth doors for bathrooms.

A common mistake is the threshold to the bathroom from a wooden door frame, as the aesthetics and ventilation of a wet room are violated, and in the future, mold may appear.

Preparation of openings for interior doors

Mounting foam will not be able to stick if there is a lot of dust on the ends of the doorway. It is necessary to remove dust or prime the ends of the walls of the opening if they are covered with gypsum putty or if the walls are made of gypsum / aerated concrete blocks.

If there are open round cavities and voids at the end of the opening, they can be repaired with plaster, leaving marks with a pencil so that the master does not drive fasteners into them. Holes for door frame fasteners are drilled between these cavities into lintels.

If the walls of the opening are made of drywall, then in a metal profile at the vertical ends of the opening necessarily must be dry wooden block. It is needed for reliable fastening of doors to self-tapping screws through the hinges and the counterpart, and it also stiffens the walls in the area of the opening. Doors installed in openings without reinforcement are doomed to short-term operation and quickly sag.

If a bar is laid inside the metal profile and the ends are not sewn up with anything, then this is not correct. Foam does not adhere well to galvanized metal. Over time, flaking is possible. To avoid this, GKL or GVL strips or plywood are screwed to the ends. Foam adhesion to these materials is excellent.

It is not allowed to leave voids between the sheets of drywall in the upper part of the opening. The fact is that the upper box is often strongly bent or bent when wedging, and to straighten it, for example, with the help of foam, a filled end of the wall is required.

Preparation of opening for sliding doors

For those wishing to install sliding sliding doors, the opening height for standard door should be approximately 202 cm. and the width of the opening should be equal to the width of the door leaf or a couple of centimeters wider. In the process of finishing the opening with extensions and platbands under the portal, its dimensions should become smaller than the door leaf.

At a height of 207 cm. up to 212cm. there should be no voids from the floor in the opening, since a wooden bar with a section of 5x5 cm and a length of about 190 cm will be horizontally fixed here, to which an aluminum top rail with rollers will be attached.

Finishing the doorway (portal) in the apartment

If you do not want to install an interior door, you can install a portal instead. This solution increases the space in small apartment, so this is a win-win option for visually combining adjacent rooms: a hall and a living room, a corridor and a dining room, a living room and a small kitchen. Doorway without the usual door surprisingly transforms the room:

Preparing the floor before installing doors

A common mistake of repair teams when laying floor coverings is when the gap between the floor covering and the wall in the area of the platbands exceeds the thickness of the platband. And you just need to remember to make it no more than 3 mm. in the area of platbands.

A recess (strobe) can be made in the wall near the floor to compensate for possible expansions of the floor covering.

Storing doors after purchase

To prevent deformation under the influence of gravity, the canvas, boxed timber and trim must be stored on a flat surface before installation. Doors can be placed on their side against the wall.

Doors, architraves and boxes can change their dimensions after changes in humidity. Due to the set of humidity after the cold in the warmth, before installation, it is necessary to store the door and the moldings indoors for several days. Do not remove the packaging from the doors in advance until the temperatures have completely equalized.

Which loops to choose?

If the canvas weighs up to 20 kg., Then it is optimal to buy 2 loops of 10 cm high.
If the canvas weighs from 20 to 30 kg., Then you need to buy 2 loops of 12-12.5 cm. height
If the canvas weighs more than 30 kg, then you need to buy 3 loops of 10 cm. height

The hinges are hung at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom of the door leaf. The thickness of the metal and the absence of backlash are very important. If the thickness of the hinge metal is 3 mm, then these are good hinges, a thickness of 2-2.5 mm is much more common. It is very good if the hinges are made of brass, steel. The most common door hinges come in several types:

universal hinges- these are traditional, mortise loops familiar to all of us. If the choice of hinges is not a fundamental point, buy universal hinges. They can open both to the right and to the left. In addition, universal hinges have a longer service life.

- not mortise, overhead loops. Easy and simple to install. They got their name for a special unusual design- both of its elements in the open state resemble the wings of a butterfly. In the process of closing the door leaf, one part of the hinge easily enters the other, forming a single whole. Usually such hinges are placed on lightweight doors.

- mortise hinges proven by time, the door with such hinges is simply removed if it opens 180 degrees. There are right and left depending on the opening of the door

How to choose locks and latches?

Locks and latches are best chosen based on the quietest operation of the mechanisms when opening and closing and their reliability. Magnetic locks are quiet, but not all, they need to be bought more expensive and preferably Italian, there are very quality options. Do not save on them, so as not to suffer later.

Cheap latches with plastic tabs are not always of high quality, here you must first ask around with knowledgeable people (not sellers), and not buy too suspicious options. It will work quietly for six months, and then it will suddenly start to rattle. Sometimes such cheap magnetic locks and latches do not work immediately after installation. Door installers are well aware of these models.

You can buy classic latches / locks. It is best to choose them with plastic reeds, as they are the quietest in operation and do not clang like metal ones.

Sometimes it happens that the new latch works hard. In this case, put a couple of drops of silicone grease on the lock tongue.

Door handle height from floor

For Europe - 95 cm. Many symmetrical doors are now being produced, in which the handle according to the design of the door should be located strictly in the middle of the leaf. Therefore, the standard handle height for Russia is 1 meter.

Almost all models of door handles come with too long self-tapping screws, which, when screwed into the door, can jam the lock or lead to its unstable operation. Door installers almost always screw on the handles with their self-tapping screws.

How to choose the right master for installing an interior door and check the quality of his work?

How to do right choice so as not to be left with hopelessly damaged doors? Will the work be done with high quality if the door installer is in doubt? Let's first find out how best to check the work of the wizard and analyze everything point by point.

How to check the work of the door installation wizard?

Look at the quality of tie-in locks, joints of the box and trim, tie-in loops. The cracks must be absent.
The tongue of the lock must fit into the striker without play.
The canvas should evenly fit along the entire length to the porch or rubber seal. When closing the door, the elastic should not be jammed with the canvas
The gaps between the door and the box must be even along the entire length.
The box is fixed in the opening not only with building foam, but also with fasteners
The canvas should not close or open on its own.
Hardware must rotate freely.
The price may rise only because of the increased volume of work that cannot be foreseen in advance.

How to choose a door installer? Basic ways.

1. The master must narrowly specialize in installing doors! It is necessary to watch or see the work live (with friends in the apartment). The foreman or team must have at least 1 year of experience and must be professional Circular Saw, milling cutters, screwdriver, drill, puncher, hairpin gun with compressor, templates for accessories, etc. Read

Among the progenitors of door structures were simple exhibits resembling entry gates. Perhaps the owners of the ancient dwellings believed that they also installed doors. However, after the invention of the loops, the need to cover the opening with them many times every day finally disappeared. Now the entrance and interior "limiters" of personal space are mounted once, but for decades. For the implementation of which the owners of suburban property often turn to professional carpenters. Meanwhile, door installation with my own hands can be not only successful, but also an economical enterprise. It is only necessary to study the technological nuances and call for patience. Does not place a labor unit in the amount of one person.

Brief overview of upcoming work + preparation

The door, of course, is not super complex technical system, but not a simple board covering the inlet "hole". It should close without any extra effort, not open spontaneously, “endure” the nervous breakdowns of those who like to clap, without falling apart. In order for the design to adequately cope with its duties, an independent home master will need to:

assemble a box - the supporting basis of the structure;
equip the canvas and the box beam with the fittings required for use - hinges, a simple handle or a snap-in counterpart with a spring mechanism;
perfectly expose and fix the box in the opening;
hang the canvas, if necessary, performing a preliminary adjustment;
trim the result of labor with platbands.

In addition to the first two stages, the primacy between which is not dictated by technology, all other actions must be carried out in a clear sequence, having previously figured out how to properly install interior doors in accordance with building codes.

Installation process in detail

A number of plastic and metal-plastic door blocks are delivered in full combat readiness for fastening in the opening. Everything is clear with them.

Consider the option with a box not assembled into a single element, which appeared before the eyes of the master in the form of a set of boxed wooden bars of arbitrary length, canvas and planks for platbands not cut to size.

Box collection options

The construction of the box is the most painstaking and responsible process. The slightest deviations in its assembly will entail, at a minimum, complications in operation, as a maximum, the purchase of new material. At this stage, you need to forget about laziness, and take all measurements with special care literally seven times.

Owners who want to figure out how to install a door with their own hands in the opening of an interior partition can make a base without a threshold in the shape of the letter P. This will require three bars:

feigned stand (aka timber);
hinged timber;
ceiling plate.

If there is a desire to make a base with a threshold, a lower bar of equal thickness will be added to the listed set. Then the box assembly will resemble a rectangle.

Performer's task:

accurately measure the size of the opening and canvas;
calculate the dimensions of the racks and lintels, taking into account the need to provide technological clearances;
clearly saw off and connect the individual bars into a single solid whole.

The thickness of self-purchased box timber must be no less than the thickness of the canvas.

Measurements must be taken with one tape measure. Measure both the canvas and the opening along the length from the left and right sides separately, without relying on their obligatory “mirroring”. Identified deviations must be taken into account in further work.

What to consider when measuring:

FROM outside parties hinged, lintel, feigned timber in contact with the opening planes, a gap for mounting foam of 1 cm must be left.
On their inside, there should also be a gap of 0.3 cm. For boxes with a threshold, this gap is maintained around the entire perimeter.
A “gap” must be left between the lower plane of the door structure without a threshold and the floor. Above the linoleum 0.8 cm, above the fleecy carpet 1.5 cm, an average of 1.0 cm.

Sawing points uprights, that is, the actual dimensions of the door clearance with the box, we find on the inside of the timber.

With insufficient dimensions of the opening, it must be increased. If the opening is too large, it is reduced by stuffing drywall cut into size along the P configuration.

What is the best way to cut timber for a box?

For the production of cuts, it is better to use a trimming machine, but as an alternative, a miter box with a hand saw is suitable. By tradition, the technology for installing interior doors offers home craftsmen two ways to connect the elements of the box:

With sawing of vertical posts and lintels at an angle of 45º. Quite a difficult option for an inexperienced carpenter, requiring attention and scrupulousness. True, carefully executed docking looks very beautiful. Self-tapping screws are used to connect the elements. Holes for them are drilled through perpendicular to the cut. All holes for screws in the elements of the MDF door structure are made in advance to avoid damage to the workpieces. They are not drilled to the end with a drill with a diameter equal to 3/4 of the diameter of the fasteners to be installed. Self-tapping screws for MDF doors you need to pick up with cutting along the entire trunk to the head.
Washed down with a 90º angle. The easiest way, for which a fine-toothed hacksaw is suitable. The size of the inner vertical line of the bars will be the sum of the length of the leaf, 3 mm from the top and 3 mm from the bottom, if the door has a threshold. For a door without a threshold, 10 mm (8-15 mm) is left below. The ceiling beam is attached to the vertical posts with two self-tapping screws on each side. When calculating its size, you need to remember that there should be a distance between the feigned and hinged beams equal to the sum of the web width and 6 mm required for two side gaps.

For the threshold, the timber is sawn only at a right angle.

You need to assemble the box on a horizontal surface. Two tables placed side by side or a floor covered with cardboard will do.

Installation of door hardware

The arrangement of the internal space is accompanied by the obligatory stage of fastening functional fittings.

In order to ensure unhindered evacuation in emergency cases, the entrance doors should open outwards.

Door hinges can be either right or left, or universal. We are used to the fact that they usually represent a flag design that requires careful insertion. However, now you can purchase devices that do not require cutting the veneer or laminated surface under the flag for the thickness of the loop.

The standard indent from the upper and lower edges of the canvas is 20 cm, with variations in both directions of 5 cm. If a third loop is used, it is placed 50 cm from the top line of the canvas.

The place of attachment of the loop to the box is calculated taking into account the technological gap. That is, from the top of the hinged bar you need to retreat not 20 cm, but 23.3 cm.

The "landing pads" for the hinges should ensure that the flag is flush with the box and canvas. They are selected with a cutter and finished with a chisel. You can do all the work only with a chisel. How the loop is inserted, the video will demonstrate:

Most independent door installers are convinced that it is more convenient to fasten the hardware before assembling the box, since on the hinged timber you also need to select the veneer for the hinges. However, this operation can be carried out on a collected basis.

Also, it will be useful to watch a video about the tie-in of the lock:

The location of the handle with a snap mechanism is determined by the owner. The standard distance is from 0.9 m to 1.2 m from the floor.

Installation and fastening of the box in the opening

Experienced craftsmen, who know perfectly well how to properly install the door, recommend that the anchors used to fix the box in the opening be closed from above with hinge flags and the striker of the lock.

On three powerful and long self-tapping screws, the door structure will hold perfectly. After all, the foam will also support the connection.

Do not forget that in order to screw the screws into the MDF box beam, you need to make preliminary holes. The owners of the baths, who are figuring out how to install a wooden door, do not need to drill holes in the timber and canvas in advance. You can drill a box of wood without prior preparation.

The door base assembled on a horizontal surface is carefully (preferably together) lifted and placed in the opening.
So that between the box and the wall surrounding it remains the centimeter gap necessary for foaming, we install wedges cut from the remnants of lumber.
We screw in the screws.
We align the base in vertical and horizontal directions, checking the position with a level and a plumb line. Deviations are corrected by loosening or screwing screws.
We hang the canvas on the hinges and check the operation of the door structure. There should be no distortions and discrepancies in the size of the gap between the box beam and the canvas.
We seal the box along the future layer of mounting foam with construction tape, insert cardboard into the gap around the canvas, close the door.
We fill all the cavities around the base box with professional mounting foam with a dispenser.

It is desirable to foam in several steps, taking into account all the recommendations of the manufacturer and the degree of swelling of the composition. The door should not be used until the foam has completely cured.

Now we can assume that you managed to assemble the structure and install the interior door with your own hands. And the experience has been gained, and there are many openings ahead, waiting for a caring master's hand. It remains only to close the not-too-presentable seams with platbands, the technology of which is worth getting acquainted with separately.

Sections of the article:

Among the first "ancestors" of modern doors were simple products that resembled shutters at the entrance to the premises. Maybe the owners of ancient dwellings were sure that they also installed doors. But after hinges were invented and began to be used in construction, the installation process changed significantly.

Today, entrance, as well as interior door structures are installed once, but for decades. In order to install the door structure, many people invite professional carpenters. Meanwhile, the installation of interior doors is not at all a difficult, but also an exciting task, which, moreover, allows you to save a lot. You just need to be aware of some technological features get the job done and have a bit of patience.

Brief overview of upcoming work

The door is a simple technical product, but not a simple shield made of wood or other materials that closes the doorway. The interior door leaf should open and close without excessive effort, be securely fixed, withstand a sharp slam, while not falling apart. In order for the door structure to reliably serve its owner, it will be necessary to accurately perform installation work.

Do-it-yourself installation of an interior door begins with the assembly of the door frame - this is its supporting base. Then it is necessary to equip the structure with all the necessary fittings - someone does it right away, something can be done after the installation work has been completed, however, in order to install the door, at least fixed hinges will be needed. Required in advance to preparatory work through, execute necessary measurements. Only after that the box will ideally match the dimensions of your opening. At the last stage of work, the canvas is hung and trimmed with platbands.

That's all short instruction for the installation of interior doors with their own hands.

Walkthrough

Now we will analyze each stage in order, but it should be noted that modern doors are usually sold completely assembled. Only occasionally does the construction market offer a "constructor" that you will need to assemble yourself.

Preparing the doorway

So, if an old door leaf is installed in the opening, it must be removed. It is recommended to do this with a crowbar - do not make too sudden movements and make great efforts. First of all, the platbands are removed, and then the old canvas is carefully removed from the hinges. With the help of the same crowbar, the box is dismantled - so that it succumbs faster, you can file it into different places. Very often in high-rise buildings the box is cemented - in this case it is recommended to simply knock out the solution with a hammer.

Usually, experts advise plastering slopes to facilitate the installation of interior doors. But in principle, this step is optional - all potholes will be covered with platbands. After graduation construction works garbage is removed and you can proceed to the next step - this is the measurement of the opening.

Taking measurements

In most homes, doorways have jagged edges, so measurements are taken in different places, and then the smallest of the obtained values \u200b\u200bis used.

When taking dimensions, it is very important to take into account the gap between the box and the opening. According to building codes, it should be from 10 to 15 mm. Installation work is recommended to be carried out after the laying of the finishing floor coverings is completed, however, if the floor has not yet been made, then the gap between the door and the floor should be taken into account (taking into account the height of the floor covering). The free movement of the door leaf depends on the height of the floor. Usually the gap between the canvas and the floor covering is no more than 10 mm.

Experts recommend purchasing a door leaf only after the dimensions of the opening have been taken, but this is not always the case. But what if there is already a door, and the opening is too large or small? And there is a solution for this problem. Everything is very simple - if the opening is too small, a puncher will help the home master. A wooden beam will help to make the opening smaller.

How to fasten extensions to narrow the doorway

So, the extensions will help narrow the width of the opening. You can do without them, but then you have to spend a lot of mortar on creating slopes, because extensions for this task are the best option.

As additional elements, strips of the same color as the door leaf with the frame are used. The thickness of such strips is usually from 8 to 12 mm. When installed, they represent a failure portal, the edges of which exactly coincide with the edges of the opening.

The installation of these elements is carried out as follows. I use a cutter or a chisel in the door frame to make a quarter with a size of 10 × 10 or 8 × 8 mm - this size depends on the thickness of the additional lath. It is done only along the outer contour of the box. The slats are cut to height. A box is installed in the opening, then it is fixed, and then additional strips are inserted into the quarters - they are fixed to the opening wall with dowels and self-tapping screws.

Installing the door frame in the opening

Here it is worth mentioning one trick. With its help, independent installation of door blocks is carried out quickly and efficiently. To do this, you need to make a very simple device. So, rails are attached across the box - they need two pieces from the bottom and top. These rails will help to correctly position the block relative to the plane of the wall. In order to avoid damage to the box, you can use special pads. It is necessary to install these linings only when the gaps are already fully set and only on the opening side. To fix the gaps, you can use cardboard folded several times.

Also, in order to correctly expose the door, you can use wedges. They are hammered between the box and the wall - by hitting the wedges, they adjust the position of the block vertically and horizontally. After that, the box can be fixed. Experts recommend using wood of no less density for wedges than the door block itself.

Canvas hanging

So, when the box is installed, you can proceed to the installation of the canvas. It all depends on the design of the hinges - they are different on interior doors, hence different technology hanging. It is better to hang the canvas with someone's help. After this step, the initial part of the work can be considered completed, but there are several stages left before the full installation of interior doors is completed.

Fixing the door block

The gaps between the opening and the door unit are usually filled with mounting space. This allows not only to fix the door frame, but also to create additional heat and sound insulation. Foam completely fills everything small cracks and other defects.

This material is easy to use and very easy to apply on any type of surface. Experts recommend pre-wetting the end of the opening and the box with water - this will improve the polymerization of the foam and its adhesion to the wall and wood.

The peculiarity of this foam is that it significantly increases its size - if it is overabundant, the door block can be deformed. But if spacers and cardboard were installed between it and the wall during the installation of the box, this should protect the canvas and the block from deformation. Before starting work with foam, the cylinder is shaken for one minute. The door must be closed.

In order to reduce the possible risk of deformations, it is better to carry out the process of filling the gaps with foam in two stages. At the first stage, the material is applied pointwise, and after about 3 hours, the remaining voids are filled. Excess foam must be removed after curing.

If the gap between the block and the opening is very narrow, then the cylinder tube must be flattened - this will work much more conveniently and efficiently. Large gaps are laid with various suitable objects, and only then filled with foam. Vertical gaps are filled first from the bottom, and then you need to move up - so the foam can create the necessary support for itself.

This is how interior doors are installed. In general, it will not be difficult, and if you are not confident in your abilities, you can watch a video that tells about all the nuances of the installation work.

Installation of platbands, installation of accessories

This is the very last step. First of all, the platband is cut in height, the upper edges are sawn at an angle of 45 °. For a horizontal element, such trimming is performed on both sides. You can fix the platbands with small nails or mounting glue.

At the very end, fittings are installed - these are handles, locking parts of locks, latches, stops, closers. There are a lot of different useful details for interior doors that can make their operation more comfortable.

All work on the installation of interior doors with your own hands can be done in one day. Total time depends on skills home master, as well as on how quickly certain materials for installation dry out. This instruction can be used to install various types doors, including plastic ones. The only difference is in the tools used and the materials of the door leaf itself.

If you decide to make repairs in the room, you should not save money by leaving the old door. This element of the interior can greatly affect the impression of the design. Therefore, experts recommend, along with the new design of the space, take care of replacing the interior door. This should be done after finishing the finish, then all the nuances will be taken into account (for example, the floor covering will slightly reduce the actual height of the opening), and the canvas or box will not suffer from finishing operations.

It should be noted that the services of specialists in installing doors can cost no less than she herself. To avoid such costs, many prefer to do the installation work themselves. How to do it qualitatively? This will be discussed further.

measurements

To do this, if there is old door, remove the platbands. This can be done with a nail puller and a hammer. You need to insert a nail puller into the gap between the casing and the door frame, make a few blows with a hammer to increase the gap. And then you should make efforts in different places along the length of the casing in order to tear it off the door frame.

The best way to take measurements is to focus on the dimensions of the old box. If it is not in the opening, then it is necessary to measure the width and height in several places. We choose the smallest value. Experts recommend subtracting about 10 cm from this value in order to obtain the dimensions of the door leaf.

When taking measurements for old box, remember that modern designs are somewhat thinner. As a rule, the thickness is 1.5 cm. It turns out that the width of the canvas together with the box is calculated as follows: the width of the canvas plus double the thickness of the box (left and right) plus a small gap between the box and the canvas. For example, the canvas has a width of 80 cm, then we get the following calculation:

80 + 1.5 x 2 + 0.4 x 2 = 83.8 cm.

Web preparation

We believe that we have already received the canvas and the door frame, based on the measurements taken. Now we need to move on to action. And it's worth starting from the canvas.

To work, you will need the following tools:

sharp chisel;
a hammer;
roulette;
a drill with a nozzle for screwing in self-tapping screws, with a drill for wood, the diameter of which is smaller than the size of the self-tapping screw.

We will not use expensive milling equipment, using only standard tools available to a wide range. And if you have the opportunity to use such a machine, the task at certain stages will be simplified and accelerated.

This will require the following accessories:

loops;
latch with handles.

So let's take a look at the door panel. Most often, damage can be on the edges, so you need to carefully examine them. If there are any problem areas, you should consider how best to position the canvas in relation to the opening and the box in order to hide the flaws.

Door hinges are hung, stepping back from the upper and lower edges of the canvas by 20 cm. We apply alternate hinges in these places (the smaller, inner part of the hinge is used). We make marks. A pencil will work for this. If dark material is used, for example, wenge, which is now popular, then you will have to choose an alternative. For example, use a ballpoint pen to press marks.

According to these marks, using a drill, we make holes, having previously placed the door horizontally, butt down. You can make them quite small in length, this will be enough. Now you need to try on the loops and secure them using two self-tapping screws (from the kit). It is best to do this with the same drill with a cross-shaped nozzle or a screwdriver. You should not screw in all the screws, because the hinges will still have to be removed.

If mortise elements are used, then recesses will have to be made in the web.

Next, prepare a place for installation in the latch web. It is believed that it is placed at a distance within 90-120 cm from the floor. We choose the optimal height for ourselves and family members. If there are small children, then it is most likely better to place the latch higher.

So, the canvas needs to be turned over (we imagine how it will work in the end, so as not to confuse the top and bottom). We attach a latch to the end, you need to outline its dimensions. Further, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, we make a recess, we follow the verticality of the actions. It can be pre-drilled. As a rule, in the place where such an element is supposed, manufacturers add a piece of wood. This is the case if not an array is used, but, for example, MDF.

We check that the core enters well. Next, you need to make a recess for fastening. We make its outline and, observing the thickness of the metal, create such a shallow cell. It remains to insert the latch core, check. If everything is fine (it is included in the canvas, does not protrude beyond the end), you can fix it with self-tapping screws (included in the kit), having previously drilled holes. We will install the handles later so as not to interfere with the assembly of the box.

Box assembly

We need tools:

chisel;
a hammer;
a drill with a nozzle for screwing in self-tapping screws, with a drill for wood, the diameter of which is smaller than the size of the self-tapping screw;
hacksaw for metal.

One of the most critical stages that requires special attention. Since we do not use expensive equipment, a circular saw is not used, which means that it will not work to cut the box elements at 45 degrees with high quality, even if you use a miter box. We will do it differently. Protruding elements will be cut out in the upper and lower slats for fixing the vertical slats.

You need to start with the bar on which the loops should be. Cut off the upper part at a right angle using a hacksaw (it will provide better edges). We apply to the end to determine the location of the "reverse" loops. The bar should be placed so that it extends slightly above the upper edge of the canvas - about 4 mm.

We put marks on which we apply loops. We mark where the screws will be, drill holes. We fix the hinges using 2 self-tapping screws.

Now you need to cut off the top bar of the box. In it, you just have to cut off the ledge. First, cut off the edge of the plank so that it is even and perpendicular to its length.

We apply the upper bar to the bar with loops strictly perpendicular, mark it. According to the mark, carefully cut off the protrusion at the required distance from the edge, and then cut it out with a chisel to get flat base. We try it on so that there are no gaps during assembly.

We make holes in order to fasten the vertical and horizontal bar of the box with two self-tapping screws. Assembly must be done carefully so that the corner does not move out. We do the same with the rest of the corners, remembering the necessary clearance - a distance of about 4 mm should be maintained from the door leaf. From below, it may be larger, since the door may sag over time.

When the box is assembled, we check the gaps and the quality of the opening and closing of the canvas. Now you can remove the hinges from the box and install a convenient canvas to secure the latch handles. To do this, you first need to make marks for the screws, and then make holes. We fix the handles. Please note that in most cases it is possible to additionally fix them with through screws. This strengthens the handles, counteracts damage to the door leaf during inaccurate use, applying excessive force when opening the door.

Dismantling the old door

First, remove the canvas, unscrewing the screws with which the hinges are attached, if they are one-piece. Next, you need to make cuts with a saw in the middle of the uprights. This is usually enough to break the box apart using a nail puller and a hammer.

Opening preparation

It is necessary to clear the opening from the remnants of the box, finishing materials so that nothing interferes with the installation. Next, you need to measure the dimensions of the resulting new box with a tape measure and correlate them with the dimensions of the opening. If there are inconsistencies, they should be corrected.

Box installation

Another difficult step. The box must be installed to the edge of the side of the opening where the door will open. It is necessary to achieve such an effect that the box maintains a level, while not protruding or falling in relation to the plane of the wall. If the level is not observed, the door will spontaneously open or close, which experts try to avoid. If the plane of the box does not coincide with the plane of the wall, there will be problems with the installation of platbands.

We will look at how to mount the box using hidden way. It is implemented simply. Fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out in three places:

in the attachment area of two loops (holes are made so that the heads of the self-tapping screws are closed with loops);
in the “return” zone of the latch (the recess where the tongue will enter).

So, first we make holes in the area of \u200b\u200bthe loops, we fix the box, watching the level. Then you need to hang the door and make a "return" using a chisel and a hammer. In this place we make a hole to secure the box.

Wooden pegs must be inserted between the box and the opening, which will make it possible to fix the structure more rigidly. After fixing, we check how the door opens and closes.

Installing trim strips

Now you need to install additional trims. Most often they have to be cut to length. You need to accurately measure the distance from the box to the edge of the wall in several places. These values may be different, which means that the width of the edges of the additional plank will be different.

When the additional strips are installed, it is necessary to fill the space between the box and the opening using mounting foam. It is better to choose a composition that does not increase much in volume in order to avoid distortions of the structure if the foam suddenly expands, distorting part of the structure.

Installation of platbands

After that, you can proceed with the installation of platbands. There are several ways to install them so that the fasteners are invisible. You can take nails (2-3 cm long), cut off the caps. Drive them into the wall (if it is wooden) and into the box with the cut side. And then with their help fix the platbands. This method is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks in the material, therefore it is more reliable to make chamfers for self-tapping screws and fix the platbands with their help. Hats can be easily hidden using special accessories ( desired color) available at every hardware store.

The upper horizontal bar and two vertical bars can be combined at 45 degrees. If there is no machine or miter box at hand, you can also make 90 degrees, cutting the products at a right angle.

Now you can enjoy the result of work both in aesthetic and practical terms!