As soon as the air begins to smell of spring, I want to go out in garden and do something useful, like clean up the mess.

Doesn't cut the eye too aesthetically shelter under which the plants survived the winter. Hands themselves reach to get rid of them. How to “undress” the plants so as not to make mistakes?

Alas, a universal recipe for gardeners does not exist. This is a risky business, a mistake can lead to the death of the plant. If you open it early, the plants will freeze, if you are late, they will support it.

Much depends on the weather, the climatic characteristics of your area and the microclimate of your site, the type of shelter, the types of sheltered plants.

So let's take a closer look at the material of the site question: When to remove shelter from plants in spring?

General rules for getting rid of plants from shelters

First of all, the strategy and tactics of getting rid of shelters depends on the purpose for which we covered the plants. late autumn... Shelters serve two different purposes, although often both at the same time - to protect against winter cold, sunburn, and physiological desiccation.

So, we focus on the weather and start “undressing” the plants when the night frosts weaken, the snow will completely melt and a positive temperature will be established. In the middle lane, this occurs approximately in early-mid-April, the air temperature at this time is set at around 5 -10 ° C.

Removing shelters is a big stress for the plants. To reduce it, we teach the plants in advance that they will have to "walk" without clothes, we begin to harden them - to ventilate the shelters at a positive daytime air temperature, and in case of a cold snap, we close them again.

Airing helps to reduce humidity, but it does not replace drainage - if the plants are in a puddle, you will have to grab a shovel and make grooves to drain the melt water. Excessive moisture is the main spring hazard. Plants can die from damping, and a humid environment is favorable for the development of infections.

We remove the shelters gradually, layer by layer, stretching the procedure for several days. It is better to choose a cloudy day without precipitation and wind, or to remove shelters from the plant in the evening - this way we will smooth out fluctuations in illumination, and it will be easier for the plants to adapt.

For work, we need gloves (when working with roses, it is better to use special - dense ones), a wheelbarrow, a pitchfork, a rake (regular and fan). Some plants may need "first aid" - so we keep on hand a pruner and garden var or similar compositions.

If the sun

The dangerous period for evergreens is March and early April. At this time, the sun shines brightly like spring, and the snow reflects the sun's rays, many times increasing their negative influence.

Most evergreens are not as bad as spring sunburn. This group includes many conifers, rhododendrons, mahonia and evergreen perennials.

Properly chosen landing site (with natural shading from aggressive midday rays and competent agricultural technology significantly reduce the risk of damage.

It should be remembered that the susceptibility to sunburn depends to a large extent on the variety, often the most beautiful varieties are more vulnerable. Some species and varieties are especially badly burned, for example, the gray spruce (Picea glauca) "Conica".

Sunburn is not always noticeable right away - the plants are vigorous and green, and after a while their outfit takes on a characteristic grayish-brown color and begins to crumble. Wrapped plants receive little light, so you cannot remove the shelter abruptly - the plants must rebuild physiological processes, and this takes time.

On the first day, untie the top of the cover and then peel off layer by layer (ideally one layer a day). Even when you have completely stripped the plants, make a south-facing screen for a few days to shade from the sun in the middle of the day.

With the early removal of the shelter, evergreens also suffer from physiological drought: the roots are in the cold soil and are still sleeping, and the ground part heated by the sun has already woken up and began to evaporate moisture. To help the plants, we shade and water them. warm water(about 50 ° C) so that the roots "work".

If the frost

Roses, clematis and other heat-loving plants, most of which are unstable in a specific climatic zone, shelter from the winter cold. Roses suffer more from damping off than from frost. Therefore, take care of draining excess melt water, and when a positive air temperature is established, ventilate the shelter, if necessary (if you have a frame air dry shelter, open it from the ends).

After removing the shelter, it is necessary to shade the queen of flowers to avoid sunburn. We do not raise climbing and standard roses and clematis immediately, but when the soil finally thaws.

We shovel the soil from the root collar last, when the buds begin to swell (after about two weeks) - hilling will protect the root collar of roses in case of an unexpected return of cold weather.

We do this very carefully so as not to damage the awakened kidneys - with a small hoe, a scoop, or just with our hands in tight gloves. At the same time, we carry out the final spring pruning.

Ambulance for plants

Immediately after the final removal of the shelters, we carry out sanitary pruning of plants. Damaged shoots - frozen, podoprevny, eaten by rodents, affected by fungi, dry and broken - cut into a ring or a kidney until healthy tissue (you can not make a cut in the middle of the internode - the area to the underlying kidney will die off anyway and can become a breeding ground for infection).

We burn the cut off parts of the plants. We cover thick sections and frost holes (cracks in the bark) with garden pitch or similar compounds.

Prune clematis with extreme caution - they have very fragile shoots. If you have not pruned them in the fall or have forgotten what pruning is needed for a particular variety, wait until the buds swell and remove all excess.

It is also useful to carry out preventive treatment with fungicides, this is especially true for roses.

What to do next

What to do next depends on the material of the shelter. Reusable shelters (burlap, kraft paper, straw mats, reed rugs, boxes, designer "houses") dry well in the sun and remove until autumn.

Nonwovens (lutrasil, spunbond and their analogs) can be used to shade open plants and save them from recurrent frost, which can damage buds and young shoots.

The foliage we used for shelter is likely already decaying. So let it rot, but in compost bin| to speed up the process, treat it with bacterial preparations).

Part of the foliage can be left near the plants by embedding it in the soil. If you used the shoots of herbaceous plants for shelter, then we send them to the fire along with the bald spruce branches. In this case, do not forget about safety precautions - dry shoots are placed in the fire in small portions - they instantly flare up and scatter even from a weak breeze.

If you do not have a specially equipped fireplace, then it is good to adapt for burning spring debris old barrel, and use the resulting ash as fertilizer.

Conclusion: - After reading the article, we hope you received an answer to the question: When to remove shelter from plants in spring?

Every day spring is getting closer and closer - at least, the calendar one. Both people and nature around them are always looking forward to it. But when the perfectly clean, snow-white winter cover comes off, problems are exposed, recovery related garden after winter. To every owner country house it is worth putting things in order on the site after winter and waking it up after "hibernation". How to do this correctly, without missing a single important detail and without harming the plants weakened after winter?

Cleaning of foliage and debris

After the snow begins to melt, last year's leaves, dry tree branches broken off by heavy snow or gusty winds, and accumulated debris will appear on the surface of the earth. When the ground dries out a little, you need to arm yourself with a rake and remove all this from the territory personal plot... Let the earth dry up completely after that.

Pruning trees and shrubs

In late winter or early spring (depending on climatic conditions) the trees are prepared for pruning. If some of the plants in the garden were sheltered from the winter cold, it is necessary to remove protective layer spruce branches (spruce branches), disassemble the structures built specifically to protect plants from snow, remove the covering material (burlap, non-woven fabric, etc.) and untie the twine with which the branches were tied. Let the plant breathe deeply.

Pruning trees, along with fertilization and irrigation, is essential element care, allows you to control the growth of the tree, improves the quality of its fruits. The best time for pruning, there is a dormant period when the plant does not bloom and does not bear fruit. Pruning is carried out when the stable temperature does not fall below 2 degrees, otherwise the cuts will turn out to be uneven, and the bark will begin to break. Each tree is pruned in a special way, depending on its type, variety and age. For example, young apple and pear trees with a spreading and drooping crown are pruned at the bend of the branches, as if directing them up. And the squeezed crown, on the contrary, tends to expand, pruning at the very depth. To improve the quantity and quality of fruits, the fruit branches are thinned out along the periphery.

Remember that over-pruning can cause the crown to thicken too much. If you are afraid to spoil a tree that has been grown for many years, it is better to consult a specialist. A landscape designer will help you tidy up your suburban area after winter.

Often, trees are damaged after winter, frost cracks appear on them (cracks in the bark or in the core of a tree in the form of spots on frozen areas of wood). Frost holes are covered with garden varnish or a special antibacterial balsam - "artificial bark". With proper care, the negative effects of wintering can be reduced and prevented from occurring in the future. In early spring, before the buds begin to hatch, shrubs can be transplanted. And don't forget to remove any old leaves from them!

Lawn restoration

Winter is a real test for your ... You can start recovering it even before the snow has completely melted. Using a rake, spread the snow cover evenly over the entire area to avoid lumps of ice (which can crush or damage the grass). You need to loosen the snow carefully, trying not to touch the roots of the plants.

When the snow melts, puddles can form on the lawn. It's time to aerate the lawn - piercing the turf special devices such as special spiked overshoes or an aerator (gasoline or electric) that pierces the lawn using a toothed shaft. Depth - about 7 cm.Aeration improves air circulation in the soil, allows the roots to drink melt water and helps to avoid diseases associated with accumulation carbon dioxide v top layer soil. By the way, during this period it is better to avoid movement on the lawn, because potholes and traces are easily formed on it.

Another obligatory and useful procedure is lawn combing - i.e. harvesting last year's dry grass, moss and leaves overwintered under the snow. The surface of the lawn is thoroughly processed with a fan rake, allowing you to get rid of unnecessary litter and improve air circulation for the plant roots. For large areas lawn, you can use mechanical openers.

If "bald spots" appear here and there, it is necessary to overseed, and preferably with the same composition of seeds. They are mixed with dry sand and sown on bare areas. You can also use ready-made lawn in rolls (turf).

If you correctly carry out all the necessary measures to restore a suburban area after winter, it will delight you with magnificent views all season!

To learn more

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If readers remember, the winter of 1978-1979, like this one, was very cold. However, those gardeners who were not in a hurry to destroy the frozen fruit trees preserved more than half of the apple trees, pears, plums, cherries, cherry plums, sweet cherries, first of all, of course, zoned varieties.

And now the situation seems to have repeated itself: the abnormally warm, dry, prolonged autumn of 2005 led to the fact that the gardens in most of the Leningrad region entered the stage of winter dormancy with a great delay. It is known that the last organ of the fruit tree that actively functions until frost is root system... Already in November, when the air temperature drops to -5 ° C ... -10 ° C, the roots continue to extract nutrients from the still non-frozen soil, which are stored in all parts of the tree and help to survive significant frosts. This is what happens in our area, if autumn is rainy and cool, winter begins with snow in November with slight cold weather, and the harvest was not too abundant.

This season, everything was different: 1. The heat was almost until mid-November. 2. Traditional autumn rains fell in places and quite sparsely. Therefore, in those orchards where the owners did not take care of the pre-winter watering, the fruit trees could not get enough food in the fall. 3. The relatively warm December and early January did not allow the formation of a stable high snow cover, which in the severe winters of 1978-1979, 1985-1986, 2002-2003. kept at least the lower part of the trunk and the root system from freezing. 4. Clear, frosty, windy February and March promise sunburn on the southern side of the trunk and frost holes on the north and east.

To this should be added good harvests, especially apples, in the southern and western regions of the region. It is clear that a tree with a large harvest also gives off a significant part of the substances it needs, and can only replenish them with timely and careful care.

All of the above factors have been summed up this winter and, most likely, will significantly affect the condition of our fruit trees.

So, what should a gardener do to reduce the negative effects of these factors.

First: do not rush to remove frozen trees. The degree of damage is best determined in May, possibly in June, after the start of sap flow. Moreover, the less frost-resistant the variety is, its location on the site is less favorable, and the tree is taller, the more the wood has suffered.

Second: assess the general condition of the tree - according to the degree of darkening of the wood on the cut, the location and number of awakened buds, the nature of the foliage. If the core of the main branches (skeletal, semi-skeletal) is dark brown, the bark exfoliates, the awakening of buds, even on apparently intact branches, is significantly lower than usual, typical for a tree of this variety, it means that it has suffered greatly and, most likely, not only this winter.

Freezing (dying off) of fruit twigs of one-two-year-old shoots, partial damage to the bark as a result of frost damage and sunburn is unpleasant, but does not yet lead to the rapid death of the tree.

Third: to produce rejuvenating pruning in adult affected trees, and regenerative pruning in young trees, preferably forming crown pruning.

This work should be carried out only when the dead, partially alive and well-restored zones are fully visible.

It can be assumed that in many gardens where there was sufficient snow cover or snow retention was carried out (embankment, organization of shelters, mulching near-trunk circles etc.), young 3-10-year-old trees with a crown that have died above the snow level will be found. At the same time, shoots and boles, covered during the frost period, will remain viable and will give a sufficient number of young shoots during the growing season.

They must be protected in every possible way from mechanical damage (for example, by the wind) - tie up, shorten to increase strength, remove weak, poorly located, overlapping branches. Subsequently, from these surviving shoots, it will be possible to form a low-standard or bushy tree shape. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops.

A slightly brown wood color indicates minor tissue damage. Nevertheless, it must be remembered that in this case, the mechanical strength of such branches has deteriorated, and pruning of these parts of the tree (skeletal, semi-skeletal branches, branches of the second order) should be carried out in to a greater extent than a tree of the same variety and age, but escaped damage.

Heavily damaged self-rooted cherry and plum trees are quite easily restored by root suckers (shoots). Apple trees, pears - only by shoots reaching above the grafting site.

All affected trees need enhanced feeding, primarily with nitrogen fertilizers, and, during dry periods, watering.

It is better to make the final decision to remove the dead tree not earlier than the second half of July. Then the gardener can make sure that the dormant buds, even at the bottom of the stem, have not woken up and recovery is impossible. In this case, do not despair, but plant new zoned varieties from nurseries of the North-West region.

Anatoly Kofman, gardener

If you dream of growing big garden with fruit trees, our article will help you find answers to all your gardening questions. You will learn how to properly plant seedlings, take care of them depending on the season and prune fruit trees in spring to maintain yields.

Planting garden fruit trees

Novice gardeners often make a common mistake, namely, planting garden crops incorrectly.

Note: Digging a hole, inserting a seedling into it and sprinkling it with earth is far from all that is needed for rooting and growth. In order for the culture to take root, you need to choose the right place, prepare the site and transplant in accordance with all the rules.

Planting horticultural crops is best done in early spring when the soil warms up. In some cases, it is allowed and autumn planting, but in this case, the seedling needs to be looked after more carefully so that it has time to take root and get stronger for the winter.

Correct disembarkation is carried out like this(picture 1):

• The seedling is inspected for damage and any dry or injured roots are removed;
• The site has been prepared since the fall: deep digging is carried out, weeds are removed and organic fertilizers are applied (best of all, rotted manure);
• Make holes for planting. In areas with good drainage, you can simply dig a hole in the ground, but if the soil is too wet, it is better to plant in small mounds;
• When preparing the pit, the fertile soil is folded separately. Later it is used to fill the well.

Picture 1. Correct fit horticultural crops

It is important to make a hole suitable size... The straightened roots should fit freely in it. After placing the seedling in the hole, the roots are sprinkled with fertile soil, watered and compacted. When the water is absorbed, you can water it again. In the future, it is necessary to observe the seedling in order to apply fertilizers in time, water or spray the crop from diseases and pests.

From the video you will learn how to properly graft fruit trees.

Seedling care

In order for the garden to be productive, and young plants to take root faster, they need to be constantly looked after.

Basic seedling care includes(picture 2):

1. Caring for near-trunk circles includes a gradual expansion of the treated soil around the trunk. Since the root system is growing rapidly, the space is increased every year, surface loosening is carried out in the spring and deep digging with a pitchfork in the fall. In summer, weeds are removed from the tree trunks, which can interfere with the development of the seedling.
2. Watering plays an important role in the rooting of seedlings. V temperate climates it is enough to water it 2-3 times a week, but if a drought has begun and natural precipitation is absent, moisture is applied daily (mainly in the evening).
3. Fertilization especially important when planting on soils with low fertility. Nutrients entering the soil are absorbed by the roots, and the tree grows more actively and begins to bear fruit earlier.

Figure 2. The main stages of caring for fruit crops: pruning, whitewashing of trunks, watering and installation of supports for branches

Young seedlings are also necessarily inspected for symptoms of diseases and pest larvae. This will allow spraying to be carried out on time to maintain the vitality of the crop. Also, pruning is carried out annually to form the crown and stimulate the formation of new shoots.

The features of caring for fruit trees are described in detail in the video.

Fruit trees for the garden: names and photos

Among the popular garden trees there are many types. Unfortunately, not all of them are suitable for growing in temperate climates. For example, citrus and subtropical fruits can only be grown in warm southern regions.

The most common are these types of fruit trees and fruit shrubs.(picture 3):

• Pome fruits (pears, apple trees, quince, irga and mountain ash);
• Stone fruits (cherries, apricots, peaches, plums, etc.);
• Walnuts (walnuts and hazelnuts, almonds);
• Berries (strawberries, wild strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries, etc.).

Figure 3. Popular types of horticultural crops: 1 - pome fruit, 2 - stone fruit, 3 - walnut, 4 - berry

You can also grow rose hips, sea buckthorn, mulberry, honeysuckle and hawthorn in the gardens. The variety of species is very great, and thanks to the work of breeders, it was possible to develop varieties that are resistant to temperature extremes and diseases.

Varieties

One of the most important conditions successful cultivation horticultural crops is the correct choice of varieties. All bred crops are tested for many years for compliance with the soil and climatic conditions of the region. Therefore, each climatic zone has its own varieties.

The best are considered winter hardy varieties, since they take root well in any climate, and a decrease in temperature does not affect productivity.

Among the best winter-hardy varieties, there are:

• Apple trees Antonovka, Grushovka Moscow and Medunitsa;
• Pears Lada, Chizhovskaya and Cathedral;
• Plums Amusing, Hungarian Moscow and Blue Gift.

There are also winter-hardy varieties of cherries (Molodezhnaya, Pamyat Yenakiyeva) and sweet cherries (Bryanskaya rozovaya, Tyutchevka, etc.).

Fertilizers for planting fruit trees

The acclimatization of seedlings also depends on the fertilizers that were applied during the planting process.

Note: When preparing the hole, the upper (fertile) layer of soil is removed and not mixed with the rest of the soil extracted from the hole. This land is later used to fill the space inside the hole.

Traditionally, organic and mineral fertilizers are used during planting. From organic fertilizers, you can use rotted manure and compost. Fresh organic matter cannot be used, since the release of ammonia during the decomposition process can provoke root rot.

From mineral fertilizers during planting, you can use any means, except for preparations containing nitrogen. Such feeding reduces the rate of plant survival. Nitrogen-containing preparations are added later, when the seedling is acclimatized.

Caring for fruit trees in early spring

Basic garden maintenance in spring involves pruning. First of all, shoots and branches damaged by frost are removed.

Preventive spraying is also carried out until the kidneys awaken. Most often, diesel fuel is used for this. It does not harm the seedling, covering it with an oily film, which blocks access to oxygen for the larvae.

Care rules

The basic rules of care include whitewashing and pruning (Figure 4). After inspecting the trunks and branches, remove all damaged parts. It is also necessary to remove the covers and inspect the trunks for damage. If there are wounds on the trunk or branches, they are cleaned of the remnants of the bark, treated copper sulfate and cover with garden var.

Whitewashing of trunks has several functions. First, it destroys the larvae of pests that have overwintered under the bark. Secondly, it protects the bark from sunburn.

Figure 4. Rules for caring for the garden in spring

In addition, in the spring, complex mineral fertilizers are applied to the root circles, which will help the plants maintain productivity and obtain the necessary nutrients from the soil.

Peculiarities

Among the features of spring gardening, preventive spraying against pests can be distinguished. They are carried out in several stages. The first time the treatment is carried out during the dormant period, when sap flow did not begin in the trunk and branches. The second time, processing is started during the flowering period, using special chemical agents... All these activities help to protect crops from diseases and pest infestations.

In the fall, they not only harvest the harvest, but also begin to prepare the garden for winter. It is not worth neglecting winter procedures, since their quality determines how successfully the crops will endure the cold season and retain the ability to bear fruit.

Care rules

In autumn, horticultural crops require such care (Figure 5):

• After harvest the trunks are completely cleaned of leaves, fruit residues and dry branches. Any organic matter on the soil surface will start to rot and can cause fungal infection.
• Under the root make potash and phosphate fertilizers. This will help the plants gain strength before winter. It is not recommended to use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, as they activate growth and prevent plants from entering a dormant state.
• After stopping sap flow carry out pruning. But if the trees were not damaged, this point can be missed, since not all crops normally tolerate the removal of branches immediately before the onset of cold weather.

Figure 5. Autumn garden care and preparation of plants for winter

It is also advisable to re-whitewash the trunks with lime and spray the garden with insecticides.

Peculiarities

the main goal autumn care- prepare trees for winter. Having collected the entire crop, be sure to clear the near-stem circles from leaves and dry branches, loosen the soil and apply potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Autumn pruning is carried out only when necessary (for example, if sick or damaged branches were found), so as not to stress the plant before winter. Obligatory care also includes whitewashing of trunks and insulation of young crops. They are wrapped in insulating material, and the trunks are covered with mulch. This will help protect the plants from frostbite.

Also, bait for rodents is laid out on the territory, which can damage the bark in winter.

Pruning fruit trees in spring: scheme

Pruning in the right way in spring will help speed up crop growth, maintain yields, and help prevent disease.

Note: Pruning can also be carried out in winter, but only if there is no severe frosts... If the temperature drops below -8 degrees, branches cannot be removed, since the resulting wound can lead to the death of the entire plant.

There are several types of pruning that can be done in the spring.(Figure 6):

• Sanitary involves the removal of all damaged and diseased branches. It is this procedure that is carried out in early spring, during the inspection of crops after winter.
• Rejuvenating helps to maintain the yield of old specimens. In this case, old branches are removed, which practically do not bear fruit. In their place, new shoots with young fruitful shoots are formed.
• Pruning for crown formation more suitable for young seedlings, branches on which grow chaotically. The main purpose of the procedure is to form a crown correct shape and free the central part of the trunk from unnecessary branches to enhance fruiting.

Figure 6. Types of spring pruning

For pruning, use only sharp gardening Tools: secateurs and special hacksaws, with which you can make an accurate and even cut.

When to start pruning

Regardless of the climatic zone, when to start pruning in the spring depends on temperature and weather conditions.

Note: The general rule of thumb is to delete branches when the tree is dormant. So it will experience less stress, and the wound will heal faster.

As a rule, spring pruning begins in March. At this time, the movement of the juice has not yet begun, but the buds are already ready to awaken, so the wounds will heal quickly, and the plant will not experience severe stress.

Pruning rules

The main rule of spring pruning is to determine in time the moment when the tree is still sleeping, but the buds are ready to open. So you fulfill several important conditions at once: remove excess or damaged branches without stressing the culture, and speed up wound healing.

Among the basic rules are the following:

• For work, use only sharp garden tools (sectors and hacksaws) so that the cut is smooth. The hacksaw you use for cutting should not be used for construction or other work.
• It is advisable to prune in warm, windless weather, so that the cut does not damage cold air and wind.
• After the procedure, the cut site is covered with garden pitch, and the trunk is whitewashed with lime.

By observing these simple rules, you can easily maintain the vitality of trees, renew old plants and activate the growth of young ones.

Pruning fruit trees in winter

Contrary to popular belief, in winter, trees not only can, but also need to be pruned. The only contraindication is severe frost. If the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the branches should never be removed. The resulting wound will take a very long time to heal, and the plant may die.

However, winter pruning has several important benefits. First, the tree is dormant and not under severe stress. Secondly, branches devoid of leaves are much easier to handle and inspect, so the cut can be made more accurate and even.

The place of the cut must be covered with garden varnish to protect healthy tissues from hypothermia or damage.

Pruning fruit trees in winter: video for beginners

Since winter pruning has some peculiarities, certain rules must be followed to carry it out.

If you have never removed branches in winter before, we recommend watching a video that will help you carry out the procedure correctly, while maintaining the productivity and vitality of the crop.

Grafting and re-grafting is one of the main stages of caring for horticultural crops (Figure 7). Vaccination is a way vegetative propagation fruit crops. A seedling grown from seeds, in most cases, does not retain varietal characteristics, therefore it is grafted (a bud or a cutting is transferred from another crop). After fusion, the gardener gets a full-fledged varietal tree.

Figure 7. Features of vaccination and re-vaccination

Re-vaccination has a lot in common with vaccination, with the exception of one significant difference. A stalk with formed buds from another variety or even a plant is implanted into the trunk. As a result, the main tree will develop and bear fruit separately, and a full-fledged shoot will grow at the grafting site, which will bear the fruits of its own variety.

Note: With the help of grafting, you can successfully grow crops that, due to climatic or soil conditions, cannot be cultivated traditionally.

Similar articles

Protection of plants from freezing

Typically, such processing of fruit trees takes several years, about one or two years. If, nevertheless, you do not do this, then the pruned tree with a high degree of probability can begin to secrete a large volume of gum (resin), which will adversely affect its development. If over the past year, new branches have grown a little, then it is more correct to prune the tree only up to the side branches.

Rodents - pests of dormant plants

Fertilizer

Gardening in Spring: Spring Jobs

If you follow these rules for caring for fruit trees, you can ensure yourself a long-term supply of vitamins for the winter, as well as a healthy and beautiful garden on the site.

Pruning trees

During the first 4 - 5 years, fertilizers are applied to the trunk circle (its diameter should be expanded as trees or shrubs grow). If the trees are planted in rows, then over time, you need to fertilize the entire planting strip to the aisle. If the trees are planted separately, then fertilizing is carried out according to the projection of the crown (the length of the shadow from the crown at noon will show the approximate arial of the root system. Another option is relevant for everyone fruit and berry crops: Apply 2/3 of the dose of nitrogen fertilizer when you dig up the trunks.

250 grams of copper sulfate.

Protects the tree trunk from insect pests.

After the snow melts and stable warm weather is established, the fallen leaves are removed and burned.

Maintenance of the garden in early spring involves many tasks. One of the important activities is the grafting of fruit crops, which is performed before the buds swell.

Frost crackles outside the window. The ground is covered with snow. It seems that trees and shrubs do not need care. But this is not at all the case. Plants require attention at any time of the year. Caring for your garden in early spring involves many important tasks. Their implementation affects the future harvest and the full development of horticultural crops. But before that, the plants must overwinter. At this time, there are many moments that should not be missed.

Experienced gardeners strongly advise against cutting off many branches from cherries.

Grafting trees

How to care for your garden
The basis of fertilization of fruit trees is organic fertilizers. As a rule, well-compacted or composted manure is used; in the fall, it is introduced into the soil to a depth of 10-15 cm or over the entire cultivation area under trees, sometimes along the diameter of the crowns under each tree. Lighter soils are fertilized annually or every other year, heavy soils every 3-4 years. Large doses of fertilizers are applied under weakly growing trees. Instead of manure applied in autumn, often in spring, compost can be used. Dry bird droppings are also used (100-200 g per 1 m2).

HOW TO CARE YOUR GARDEN

Top dressing of fruit trees in autumn is the most the best option... Before applying fertilizers, the soil should be carefully loosened, without digging into the depths. Organic matter is applied to a depth of 15 - 20 cm along with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Be attentive to the fertilization process: both a deficiency and an excess of minerals will negatively affect fruit-bearing trees. For example, an irregularity of such a useful element as nitrogen can affect frost resistance and overall plant growth.

Planting trees and shrubs

Insist 2 hours Whitewash the young trees with a mixture based on chalk, under such a solution the bark will breathe freely.

Preventive actions

Choose which solution to apply yourself. Acrylic paint rain is not terrible - this whitewash is the most resistant. You can use special store solutions and self-prepared, with the addition of any adhesive.

A detailed account of the basic garden work required in spring... Tips for pruning, feeding, planting fruit trees and others necessary work at this time of the year.

There are several such methods. Among them, popular and often used is grafting by cuttings in the cleft or behind the bark. They are harvested at the beginning winter period, before the onset of severe frosts. Shoots of annual growths are suitable for grafting. The cuttings used for this event have three or four buds. As a rule, stone fruit will be the first, followed by pome crops. For young trees, the grafting zone is no more than two meters above the soil surface, and for shoots - one and a half meters from the trunk. Branch cut diameter:

At the beginning of December, attention is paid to young trees and shrubs.

Pruning dry twigs in spring

Source
Simultaneously with organic fertilizers mineral and chemical fertilizers should also be applied to the soil. If green manure plants are also grown under the trees, the dose of manure or compost can be reduced by half.

Before the onset of spring, the trunks of fruit trees are rubbed with milk of lime. Apart from everything, White color reflects the sun's rays, which avoids overheating during intense sunlight and a sharp drop in temperature at night, especially below zero.

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Garden care in spring: basic steps, techniques, videos, photos

It is better to apply nitrogen fertilizers in parts in spring and in the first half of summer. Their introduction in the second half of summer can cause a second wave of shoot growth or delay the growth of the latter and the maturation of wood. Such trees will not have time to prepare for winter, and even with light frosts, unripe tree shoots will freeze, which can cause the death of trees.

More accurate fertilization data are shown in the table.

Caring for a garden in the spring is a must for the prevention of pests and disease control.

First work in the garden

2.5 kg of lime is diluted per bucket of water;

Spring gardening - prevention of plant diseases and the guarantee of a good harvest

- for stone fruit crops - 3 cm;

In order for them to overwinter well, it is necessary to monitor the insulation of the near-stem circles of plants. As insulation, you can use snow, which is distributed under trees, around the bushes and compacted. It will protect against frost and rodents. Throughout the winter, they continue to huddle the plants with snow.

In early April, the entire harness is removed from the tree boles. After they are thoroughly whitewashed with lime. For this purpose, it can be used as a water-dispersion or water-based paint and mortar... The main thing is that the trunk and the beginning of the branches turn out white, the coating does not wash off for a long time and allows the bark to "breathe" freely. For this, substances such as PVA glue or casein glue are added to the main component of the mixture, so that the whitewashing of fruit trees in spring is more durable. You can also use green or laundry soap, milk or clay. All these means ensure reliable adhesion of the solution to the base.

Whitewashing - protection of horticultural crops

How to whitewash trees

Fruit Trees Message Series:

One tree at the age of 2-3 years requires 12-15 kg of fertilizer; the dose of fertilizers increases every year, i.e. for an eight-year-old tree, it requires 40-50 kg, and older trees with a crown diameter of 6 m consume 120-160 kg of fertilizer.

The moisture-proof bowl around the tree is covered with dry soil, compost, peat or plant residues in spring, this prevents rapid evaporation of moisture.

1. Fertilizer doses depend on the fertility and soil composition of your region.
2. Caring for fruit trees in autumn is a guarantee of a long and comfortable life of fruit plants for many years to come. Therefore, you should start caring for the garden from the very beginning and throughout the life of the plants.

Treat fruit and berry crops with special preparations at least 3 times:

How to whiten fruit trees

• Half a liter of copper sulfate;
• Healthy, blooming garden, bringing a rich harvest largely depends on proper, high-quality care, especially in the spring. The time for the awakening of all living things is important and troublesome for gardeners. Perform all work depending on weather conditions and climatic zone.
• - for pome crops- 5-6 cm.

Garden maintenance in winter and spring includes a variety of activities. And each of them has its own terms. In winter, attention is paid to protecting trees from rodents. Mice and hares can damage the bark of trees. Annual and biennial crops are particularly affected. The trunk of the tree is protected in the autumn. It is wrapped in various materials. At the end of winter, drugs are used that will scare off rodents. They are placed around trees.

• In spring, trees need "medical" help more than ever.
• Part 1 - Sea buckthorn
• Mineral fertilizers are used taking into account the reaction of the soil, the age and fertility of the tree. In autumn, when plowing the soil, phosphorus and potash fertilizers are usually applied so that these substances have already been assimilated during the growing season. With the onset of spring, nitrogenous fertilizers are applied. You can use combined fertilizers in autumn and spring, which gives a tangible effect. During the growing season, nitrogenous fertilizers are added additionally, and they are introduced into the soil shallowly.

During the growing season, especially during dry periods, fruit trees are thoroughly and abundantly watered. Watering often, but little by little, is useless. Moisture does not reach the roots, lingering in the surface layer of the earth, on which a crust then forms. To retain moisture around the tree, even before its flowering, it is useful to lay peat, straw manure or grass in a layer of 5-10 cm.

• In the first year after planting, trees are watered 4 - 5 times per season at the rate of 20 - 30 liters per tree for each watering. In subsequent years, watering can be less frequent, as needed, and the amount of water can be increased by 10 - 20 liters per each year of the tree's life.
• Contents:
• Before vegetation (kidney swelling);
• Wood glue is added - 200 grams so that the solution on the tree lasts longer.

Work in the garden begins with the release of the branches of the plantations from melted snow, if at the end of winter there was an abundance of precipitation. From the spring sun, the snow becomes loose and heavy, it can easily break thin branches. To avoid this, shake it off. If the branches have already buckled and fell, build supports to support them.

Spraying trees and shrubs in the garden

All operations are performed on the day of vaccination. The joints of the cutting with the branch of the tree are wrapped with insulating tape, which can be removed three or four weeks after the operation, or left until next spring.

When to process trees

With the onset of March, a hot season begins for gardeners. This is a crucial period. With the beginning of the snow melting and with the first streams, work on the backyard or summer cottages... How to properly organize garden maintenance in spring? What to do in the first days of March? During this period, the snow becomes loose. It gradually melts, and accelerate this process not necessary. The exception is drifts that completely cover the bushes. So that when the snow melts does not damage the branches, it is raked to free the plants.

• After cold weather, wounds often appear on their bark due to the destructive effects of rodents, cold winds and frosts. And these wounds need to be treated in time. To this end, they are rubbed to healthy wood with a commercially available garden putty based on nigrol (gear oil). Then disinfection is carried out using copper sulfate at the rate of 300 g of the main component per 10 liters of water. Next, another layer is applied - garden var. If you need to close up the holes that have appeared in the trees, then they should be well cleaned of dust, filled with rubble and filled with a cement-based solution. Effective spring care for fruit trees involves this procedure.
• Part 2 - Pruning trees

How to spray fruit trees

In the year when the soil is fertilized with a full volume of compost or manure, the dose of mineral fertilizers is halved. If the trees grow too violently, and the shoots ripen poorly, the amount of nitrogenous fertilizers applied is reduced, and more phosphorus and sulfur fertilizers are added. If previous crops are grown under the trees, the amount of fertilizer applied should be increased in accordance with their need.

1. Crown care during the period when productive and lean years alternate and the growth of annual shoots decreases. Moderate rejuvenation: a) pruning branches bent in a semicircle; 6) pruning thick branches
2. The first spring watering is carried out before the flowering of the tree, during flowering or immediately after it.
3. 1.5 More on the topic:

7-10 days after flowering.

Tree feeding

Whitewashing based on manure and lime:

Fertilization timing

The next tip is relevant for areas with a slope. So that the melt water is retained and the flood does not erode the soil, build ramparts of snow across the slope.

Keeping your garden in early spring is not just about getting your planted plants to grow beautifully. At this time, young trees and shrubs can be planted. This event is carried out before bud break. In the spring they are planted planting material crops with insufficient winter-hardy qualities. After planting, they provide constant soil moisture.

Dosage of organic and mineral fertilizers for the garden

The main condition for this event is the air temperature. You should not perform work if it is frosty outside. In the case when the thermometer recorded readings below minus ten degrees Celsius, trees should not be cut. The peculiarities of the climatic zones make their own adjustments to the care of the garden in the spring.

Effective protection of trees is not complete without such a procedure as spraying against all sorts of pests. It should be planned for early spring, but carried out at an outside temperature of at least + 5 ° C. For the first time after winter, plum, apple and pear trees are sprayed in mid-March, before buds appear on the branches.

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Caring for fruit trees in the fall.

For feeding weakly growing trees, it is allowed to use liquid fertilizers during the growing season. For example, fermented bird or rabbit droppings diluted in 10 parts water are useful. You can also use a solution of complete fertilizers that dissolve well in water. These liquid fertilizers are poured into grooves 10-15 cm deep around the crown circumference. After the liquid has been absorbed into the soil, the grooves are leveled.

• If a tree has not bloomed in spring, it must be dug out of the ground, the roots must be shortened, and for several days (best in a cellar) the roots must be immersed in water or covered with damp earth. Only after it turns green can it be planted back into the ground.

Young garden care

The second - until the June ovaries fall,

Pruning

Having started to properly care for a young garden, you can provide your trees and shrubs with optimal conditions for growth and fruiting, and yourself a cozy cellar with an abundance of vitamins for the winter. The main work on the care of fruit trees is carried out in the fall, however, some attention should be paid to fruit plants during the summer season.

• Early spraying of trees with Bordeaux liquid or copper sulfate, urea, (urea) will save the plants from many problems. There are other means of treatment: chemical, combined, but the above are effective and one of the most budgetary. The gardener decides which drug to choose.
• 1 kg of lime and manure;

When to prune fruit plants

Stock up on melt water - it is rich in useful microelements. For this, containers must be filled with snow and added as it melts.

Top dressing of fruit trees and shrubs

One of the important agricultural practices is pest and disease control. Maintaining your garden in early spring is the right time of the year to do this. Chemical treatment of plants will require practical skills and knowledge from gardeners. It is impossible to grow a healthy and full-value crop without plant protection.

• At the same time, competent pruning is carried out until the buds swell. It is performed on sunny days at zero air temperature.

Spraying fruit trees

Part 21 - HOW TO RAISE A KING-APPLE

Lime is introduced into the soil in accordance with its reaction. It is especially necessary for stone fruits; berry crops are less demanding in this respect. It should not be overlooked that it is impossible to simultaneously introduce calcium fertilizers and manure, as well as superphosphate and chemical nitrogenous fertilizers.

During the growing season, especially after rain (before the formation of a dried earth crust), the soil around the tree must be finely loosened several times. It is necessary to loosen it in May-July, when mainly the formation of shoots and fruits takes place. In August and September, the soil is not disturbed, which ensures better ripening and color of the fruit.

Watering

Third, if the summer was dry and watering is necessary - 2 - 3 weeks before the ripening of the fruits of summer varieties of apples and pears.

1. The main function of pruning fruit trees is to form the future crown, its shape and the location of skeletal branches. However, certain conditions must be observed.
2. Start the first treatment when the temperature has reached 5 ° C heat. During this period, spraying will destroy successfully overwintered pests.
3. 200 grams of copper sulfate;

With the arrival of spring, not only vegetation wakes up - rodents and pests are ready to activate. Inspect existing bait poisons, prepare new ones if necessary.

Protecting fruit trees from pests and diseases

Spraying of fruit and berry crops can be divided into three stages:

1. Fruiting trees are cut first, the flower buds of which are ahead of the awakening of the leafy ones. This event provides for the removal of:
2. Part 22 - For fertilizing the garden - Urea

With an acute deficiency nutrients when their intake from the soil is in any way limited (waterlogged soil, damaged roots), spraying the leaves with a nutrient solution can be recommended. 400 g of ammonium nitrate with limestone or 500-600 g of urea, 500-600 g of potassium bisulfate and an extract of 3-4 kg of superphosphate are dissolved in 10 liters of water. The most favorable period for such spraying is the period after flowering. With a clear lack of nutrients, spraying is repeated one or two more times after 10-14 days. As necessary, such spraying is combined with spraying against diseases and tree pests.

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Caring for fruit trees throughout the year

In autumn, the earth is dug around the tree to a depth of no more than 10 cm, and in the aisles - up to 15 cm. Around the tree, digging is carried out only with a spade-pitchfork, which does not damage the roots so much. Even better than loosening, a shallow trench. In the summer, it is generally not recommended to loosen the ground. After the soil dries up in the spring, it is treated with the reverse side of the rake (also in order to reduce moisture loss from evaporation).

The dates for watering fruit trees are in September - for the autumn growth of roots, and later, in the winter, for charging the soil with moisture.

Basic - skeletal branches should move away from the trunk at an angle of 45 - 60 degrees. So correct pruning fruit trees means removing unnecessary branches that do not meet this condition.

The use of special preparations before flowering will help protect the buds, cope with pest larvae and fungal diseases.

Mix the specified components in 8 liters of water, leave for about 2 hours.

The snow has melted - start cleaning the garden. Collect old leaves and other debris, and get rid of weeds if they appear.

Before the onset of swelling of the kidneys;

- damaged, frozen shoots;

This is due to the fact that it is here that various harmful organisms... It is useful for a gardener who has not yet gained experience to know how the correct spraying of trees occurs, in the sense of which work needs to be done and how to apply the solution to the surface of the trunk.

Part 23 - Caring for fruit trees throughout the year

Protection against diseases and pests

Deep rejuvenation of the crowns of old trees a) the cut angle of the apple tree; 6) at the pear; c) apple tree after pruning. 1 - branch going to the side at the end of the shortened branch; 2 - a small, horizontally running fruiting twig on the upper branch; 3 - a thinner twig, going obliquely towards the lower branch

The protection of the garden from pests and diseases must be carried out regularly by all existing ways- agrotechnical, biological and chemical.

In each tier of the crown, skeletal branches should be evenly spaced around the trunk. If there are two branches, the angle of divergence between them is 180 degrees, and if there are three branches, then - 120.

The next treatment is needed to destroy the appeared insects and fruit rot.

Clay-based whitewashing solution:

Even before the snow melts completely and the trees "wake up", choose a dry day and whitewash.

Before flowering;

- branches growing inside the crown;

When spraying fruit trees, special attention is paid to places on the trunk where cracks are noticeable.

Planting seedlings, grafting, etc.

The best defense is prevention. If fruit plants create good conditions and, accordingly, take care of them, they will not cause much trouble for the gardener.

Various plants can be grown under fruit trees to enrich the soil with humus. For this purpose, field peas, fodder vetch, white mustard, buckwheat, phacelia, white clover, multiflorous chaff, annual ryegrass, etc. are most suitable, and on sandy soils - lupine.

Set up pest traps

If you planted a seedling in early spring, pruning the fruit trees in the fall will greatly facilitate the further formation of the crown of the plants. An autumn seedling can be trimmed in the same way in the fall after a year. Optimal conditions for pruning fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs - a period of sleep, that is, when the plant has not yet awakened in early spring or has already reduced its activity in late autumn. During this time, the plant is easier to tolerate pruning injuries.
Remember, it is not recommended to spray the trees during flowering.

Mix 1 kg of fatty clay in 10 liters of water;

Before work, prepare damaged trees: clean the trunk with a brush, remove dead bark, at the same time, overwintered and remaining pests will be destroyed. Growths, lichens are also peeled off. Cover all open cracks with garden varnish. Whitewash after the treated areas are completely dry.
A week after flowering.

- twigs that interfere with the development of the crown.
First of all, with the onset of spring, you need to provide proper spring care for fruit trees. Cleaning their trunk with a brush will help to do this. Only then can the lime mortar be used. By the way, it must be fresh, which means that you need to cook it on the same day. Otherwise, it will not act on insects as needed, and will not harm them, and burns may remain on the tree itself. To treat the garden from pests, you can also use Bordeaux mixture, iron vitriol, as well as drugs such as "Hom" and "Topaz".
Among the features of pruning fruit trees in spring, several of them should be highlighted. So, for a recently planted pear, it is always necessary to remove branches during this period, which, being too close to the trunk, create an acute angle. This must be done in order to ensure the growth of seedlings, which is possible only under obtuse angle from the trunk. When pruning branches, it is important to distribute them evenly around the entire circumference.
And if you also foresee everything in order to attract birds and helpers, then worries will diminish altogether. To do this, it is enough to install bird feeders in the garden for the winter, replenish the feeders with food, and for some useful birds, put titmouses and birdhouses so that the birds will hatch chicks directly on the site. The birds will repay the owners with good - they will engage in useful work: the destruction of pests.
The seed is applied from early July to early August in moist soil. Plants are planted only in spring. In winter, this planting material protects the soil from severe freezing and helps to better retain snow. It is not recommended to grow green manure plants in areas with rainfall below 500 mm, as well as in young fruit plantations.
Spray with vitriol before flowering and a month before ripening.

Spring care behind fruit trees: photo and video

1. Top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers begins from the second - third year after planting, if the necessary doses of nutrients were initially introduced into the planting pit

   Spring pruning and crown formation

   Garden maintenance includes feeding the trees in the spring to nourish and improve the quality of the soil. Everything necessary elements for growth, plants are obtained through mineral fertilizers, so do not forget about them every year. Organic: compost, peat, manure is enough to use once every 2 - 3 years. Usually, in the spring, the soil is fed with nitrogen, and in the fall, manure, phosphorus, and potassium are used.