How best to install a bathtub in the bathroom. Independent installation and connection of the bath - work for a skilled craftsman

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; chipping off the enamel is easy, but. Steel and plastic bathtubs must be turned very carefully: the coating may crack from deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or a door by itself. In addition, the installation of the bath has to be done in a cramped room. Therefore, the first condition for self installation baths are a strong skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak helper can not cope.

The second point is the installation of bathroom plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you can not be white-handed. You must have developed a tactile sense; Simply put - your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. An instrument accidentally dropped into the tub can cause irreparable damage. And if the bath is acrylic, then blind holes will have to be drilled in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If it is planned to replace the bath, and not transfer the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

1. Steel ("tin") cheap and easy to work. A sturdy man with working plumbing skills can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is filled / released, which does not benefit the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, the deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
2. Cast iron- eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. Working with her is very difficult: hard. And it's not just about weight: it's almost impossible to put a cast-iron bath on already without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but, turning the bathtub, again, it is easy to damage it. In addition, if the bath is on decorative open legs, then leveling it is a chore, and adjustable legs break easily from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and flops in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) bathtubs last up to 15-20 years. It is expensive, but cheaper than cast iron. You need to work with it together, but without strain, as with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coatings are easier to repair than enamel. It can be said that the ideal option, with the exception of: acrylic bath the ingress of aggressive detergents, neither concentrated nor in aqueous solution. In fact, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At the current prices for hot water, washing in the bath is a luxury, and cheaper prices are not expected. In this regard, the heat loss of the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

• Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor conductor of heat. If a temperature of 60 degrees is set on the boiler, then to fill an ordinary semi-recumbent acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is enough.
• Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively gives off heat into space, in the form of infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter one, you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, in just a month or two, an expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out”.
• Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And she warms up for a long time, and gives off heat well: metal after all. A boiler is needed for at least 100 liters, and for the money - washing in a cast-iron bath will cost 1.5 times more than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation new bath timed to repair the bathroom, then it is better to postpone the wall cladding "for later", after installing the bath. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made the waterproofing of the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bath. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tile) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold.

Note: in In this case, an incomplete row of tiles in height will be visible. For the sake of preserving the decorative qualities of the cladding, it is better to put it in the middle of the height of the wall - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made of tiles of a different color, then it can turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If there is only a bath replacement, then a new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the gap that appears aesthetically pleasing: although the facing tile does not burn out, dirt has eaten into its previously hidden part, which cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bath must be flat and durable; especially - under the cast-iron, which weighs a lot even empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the tiles on the floor are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on the “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not care about its strength at all, you can lay two larch boards (logs) on the floor (it is from it, only teak is suitable from other wood, but it is not widely available). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath fall on them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A wooden pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and / or cladding, the boards need to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and hold it for at least two days, and preferably a week.

bathtub height

The installation height of the bathroom is important not only for its interface with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is for any infection from the sewer to seep through it in the reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will go more intense. How long it takes to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bath by only 4-5 cm with the right drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain grid and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump, knows what this means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made from two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene reinforcement is more expensive, but has important advantages over vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
3. The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not tuberculate, but striated. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance propylene pipes one and a half times lower than PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross section will let more water pass through itself, and there is less risk of flooding neighbors.

typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take the "Chinese" drain, assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will seize the bolt so that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will be necessary to break it down and install a new one. There is no point in changing the bolt to brass or bronze: the material will turn green and grab in the same way. And it’s also pointless to sharpen a stainless steel bolt to order: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt from another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, electrocorrosion will immediately begin with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a grid in the form of a cross of two crossbars. Such a net is a very good hair catcher, and it is difficult and disgusting to tear them out of there. A grid of circular holes arranged around the circumference is better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slots. In a bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not clog, and the mesh will remain clean.

cork chain

The usual cork chain is soon torn, and in any case covered with a coating of salts, which does not add to the attractiveness of the bath. There is drain devices with a remote controlled plug, but they are expensive and prone to breakage. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

overflow pipe

Do not take hard - this is a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means that there is less chance of overflow.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

• Rule. This is a flat rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bath. Needed to level the bathtub. Aligning diagonally even an amateur does in two steps, and aligning along the sides requires 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain cracked after that.
• Fork wrench for tightening the release parts. You can’t grab it with adjustable pliers, and it’s extremely inconvenient with pliers, and you can damage it.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath during its assembly. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not necessary strength and hitting accuracy.

Note: like a rubber hammer, you can adapt a chasing hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose over its spherical butt.

Of the materials, you will need silicone sealant (sealants based on MS are expensive and do not have significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bath is acrylic. A drill stopper is made from electrical tape. PVC tape slips easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose, tightly stretched over the drill.



About leveling and pairing the outlet with the sewer

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, not to lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bath, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to interface the outlet pipe of the bathtub with the sewer, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be done after alignment, and the cuff should be taken soft, from micropork or neoprene, so that the drain outlet can become tilted. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; estimated service life - 100 years. In the USSR, it was known as "military sealant".

But the easiest option is to purchase drain fittings with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. It is impossible to blow out with mounting foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from the inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

1. The rule is laid diagonally on the bathtub, a level is placed on it and horizontal is achieved by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Transfer the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
3. Check if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bath and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side goes astray, and you have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve exactly horizontality. The inclination of the bottom of the bath bowl to the drain is already provided.

Sewer preparation

The branch pipe of the sewer pipe and the pipe itself must be dry from the inside for reliable sealing. Firstly, for this, when installing a bath, in no case should there be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be well dried from the inside. Plaque can not be cleaned off if it is small, but it must be dried thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, by the wife's hair dryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bath, try to send your family somewhere. Except, perhaps, for an adult son - an assistant.

Scheme-example of installing a bath:



Installing an acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will first have to attach complete guides (lodgements) for legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom on special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the fastenings of the lodgements for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about it, then the positions of the lodgements are standard: front 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge of the drain hole along the length; back - at the place where the bowl passes into the back rounding.

The lodgements are applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, the drilling points are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. Drilling depth - 3/4 of the length of the body of the self-tapping screw.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and drain fittings are mounted. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
• The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It must be placed with the tip of the wedge to the edge of the hose, so that when tightened, it will be pressed into the spacer.
• Threaded connections do not tighten tightly.

The bath is turned upside down again, the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with a measurement so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the side of the drain.

Then the bath is carefully put in place, moving close to the walls. At the same time, an experienced one makes sure that the outlet of the bath gets into the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled, the outlet is sealed. Until the sealant has hardened, the joints are tightly tightened with a fork wrench: who is larger, sits in the bath and holds, and who has smaller hands, bends, reaches out and twists: all turnkey places are outside. After the sealant hardens (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately), check for leaks.

If it does not flow, or is eliminated, the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls are sealed with the same silicone. Streaks and influxes of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but more on that later.

steel bath

The installation of a steel bath is done in the same way as an acrylic one, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs should sit in their places like a glove.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash of the fastening of the legs allows, you need to lay pieces of rubber from the car camera under their surfaces in contact with the bath bowl. Then the bath will ring less when filled with water.



Cast iron bath

Installation cast iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and tossing it is risky for the environment. Therefore, if the dimensions of the bathroom allow, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there, and there it should already be equipped with a drain and legs. If the bath is on decorative legs, then its alignment is also done in a “naked” form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. Leg pads negate aesthetics, and filing legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And each time such a bath needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then again put on legs and dragged. Therefore, for a bathtub on decorative legs, the floor of the bathroom needs to be increased in advance.

It is also inconvenient and risky to put a cast-iron bathtub on its side for drain installation. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

plastic bath

On sale there are cheap substitutes for acrylic bathtubs. When installing such plastic bath, in addition to a particularly careful attitude towards her, she needs to put several larch chocks under the bottom, processed, like the logs under the legs. With such a pillow, a very budget bath may well last a dozen years.



Screen

The bath screen can be either complete or complete. A lot of self-made screens are described, and their designs differ in a surprising variety for such a simple device. Only one recommendation can be singled out: do not bring the screen to the floor by 5-6 cm. Rubbish under the bathroom will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damaging the screen with a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub. In this case, sealing the outlet into the sewer and the gaps between the bathroom and the wall is done last. The installation of the screen under the bath is carried out with the bath already leveled and standing in place, the outlet of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen goes into the groove or catches the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is deaf, then you need to look for drain fittings with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.
2. For a bathtub with a complete screen, a bedding made of lags under the legs is not applicable, except perhaps in some way to raise the screen. And you need to align such a bath not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best thing is not a complete and not home-made, but a purchased bath screen. Such screens are supplied with adjustable legs. They can even be adapted to a bathtub standing still: wrap the legs all the way, move them forward, and turn them away until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub.

Summary

Self-installation of a bathtub, especially a cast-iron bathtub, is hard and complicated work. A beginner can be recommended to independently install only an acrylic or steel bath.

Installing a bath with your own hands is a rather complicated process that requires certain skills and abilities. The bathtub is a large-sized item that needs careful handling: it is easy to damage the enamel, but it is almost impossible to restore it. The details of this process will be discussed in the article.

Model selection

If you plan to completely replace the bath, you must immediately make a choice. Only a competent approach will help to buy plumbing device, which will fully meet the needs of all residents of the apartment. Among the options on the market, the most popular products can be distinguished:

• Steel- are affordable and easy to use. The peculiarity of this option is that, with certain skills, such a bath can be installed by one person. The only drawback is that the enamel of such a product deteriorates extremely quickly, so durability is out of the question. A steel bathtub is the ideal solution for small rooms where it is necessary to install the plumbing fixture as close to the wall as possible. This allows you to significantly protect yourself from deformations and the need for replacement in the future.
• Cast iron- have a long service life and do not require special treatment. However, such baths are characterized by extremely high cost and complexity of installation, which is caused by significant weight. It is impossible to install a bath on a ready-made siphon, so you have to attach it to it in advance, which is quite difficult in cramped conditions of a small space.
• Plastic– have become very popular lately and can boast of their environmental safety, durability and attractive appearance. Acrylic baths are more expensive than steel, but they are cheaper than cast iron.

It is necessary to work with such a plumbing device very carefully, since it is quite easy to damage the surface. According to other characteristics, the acrylic version is considered one of the most suitable for modern bathrooms.

Having decided on the material suitable for manufacturing, you can start choosing the size of the product. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the height of the side, the depth of the bowl, its length and width. The most suitable plumbing height can be determined by the average height of family members. In addition, be sure to consider the presence of children in the apartment. For adults, a height of 60-70 cm is considered optimal. If there are children, then it is better to choose smaller products.

Each type of bath has its own distinctive features by dimensions:

• Cast iron products are presented in two versions: miniature (120x70 cm) and European standard (140x70 cm).
• The length of the bowl of a steel bath is 150-180 cm, and the width is 85 cm. Sometimes on the market you can find products made of economy type steel. The length of this model is 120 cm, which makes it an excellent option for a small room.
• Acrylic bathtubs are very different, so there are a lot of options when choosing. On the market you can find models with long and short bowls. It all depends on the overall configuration of the product.

Bath can be wall or corner. A distinctive feature of wall products is that they are mounted as close as possible to one of the walls, while corner products are installed at the corners.

Wall baths come in a variety of shapes. The most popular is oval, which looks more stylish and elegant. Concerning corner baths- then they are usually found with the correct geometry, less often - in asymmetric forms.

When choosing a bathtub for a city apartment, it is necessary to take into account the available floor space, as well as minimum set installed furniture.

Finally, you need to decide on the manufacturer of plumbing equipment:

• Cast iron bathtubs in the domestic plumbing market are represented by three major manufacturers: "Universal", Roca and Jacob Delafon.
• Among the steel options, the products of domestic companies are in great demand, and among the foreign ones, Spanish can be distinguished. trademark Roca and Portuguese products BLB.
• Acrylic bathtubs are presented in the greatest variety. On the market you can find products from European countries, Turkey and China. Among the most well-known manufacturers you can select a Czech company Ravak, Polish Cersanit and Kolo, Spanish pool spa.

• On the this moment quartz bathtubs are produced by only one company - a German brand Villeroy&Boch. The fact is that this company- and the developer of the technology itself, and the creator of the material, therefore the right to produce products belongs only to her. For this reason, you do not need to believe if they try to sell you a quartz product from another manufacturer.

Bathroom preparation

Before installing this sanitary ware, it is necessary to prepare the entire room, which will allow for competent installation and guarantee the durability of the bath. First you need to pay attention to the walls. If the installation of a new bathtub is carried out simultaneously with the repair in the room, then the cladding should be carried out after installation. If repair work will not be carried out, then the new plumbing fixture must be at least a few centimeters higher than the old one. Only in this case, you can achieve an attractive appearance, as well as make sure that there will be no gaps.

Particular attention must also be paid to the floor, which must be perfectly flat and reliable, without skirting boards, capable of supporting the weight of the product being installed.

Even an empty cast-iron bathtub weighs a lot, so the base for it must be prepared correctly. Not every tile is able to withstand such a load. The ideal option it is considered that the tiles were laid on solid cement, this ensures maximum strength and reliability. If there is even a minimal void under the tile, then it will immediately crack from such pressure.

If it is not possible to carry out repairs on the flooring, you can simply lay two durable larch boards that will reduce pressure on the floor and tiles.

However, the wood must be pre-treated with fungicides, as the bathroom is a fairly humid room, so all materials should be protected from decay. With the help of a wooden pillow, you can not only get rid of problems with the load on the floor covering, but also solve issues related to the height of the bath.

Installation of different types of bathtubs

On the modern market, a large number of bathtubs are distinguished, which differ from each other in their characteristics, cost, appearance, performance properties and installation features. In order for the mounted plumbing device to last as long as possible and fully perform the functions assigned to it, it is necessary to take into account its variety during installation.

Acrylic

Before installing such a product, it is necessary to attach to it all the guides for the legs, which will be installed across - on special self-tapping screws. Each acrylic bath comes with a special instruction that explains how to mark the fixtures. Lodgments should be applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, marking all the necessary places with a pencil. The depth of drilling in this case cannot exceed 25% of the length of the self-tapping screw.

It is necessary to install the drain fittings by turning the bathtub on its side. For everything to go as smoothly as possible, you need to adhere to the following recommendations:

• each gasket must be lubricated with silicone before installation;
• installation of the gasket occurs from the outside;
• it is better to choose a conical gasket, which is installed with a tip to the hose, so that during the tightening process it does not damage the spacer;
• threaded connections must be tightened tightly, but not too tight, otherwise they may burst.

photos

When all this is done, you can turn the plumbing fixture over and install the legs. It should be noted that you will not be able to cope with the installation of such a product on your own, so you will definitely need a partner. A more experienced person should be on the side of the drain to constantly monitor its location and installation.

The acrylic bathtub should be as close as possible to the wall, which will provide more convenient use and prevent damage to the product. Once the model is in place, it should be leveled and sealed against leakage. First we use a sealant, we carry out the rest of the work only after it dries.

After the sealant has hardened, it is necessary to check for leaks, because after the work is completed it will be extremely difficult to return to the previous stage. If there are no leaks, then with the help of silicone it is also necessary to seal the gaps between the sides of the bath and the wall.

metal

Installation of a steel bath is carried out in the same way as acrylic. The only exception is the mounting of the legs, which must be inserted into the fasteners and fixed with bolts and nuts. It is necessary to fix it as firmly as possible, tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs must not wobble, otherwise the steel bath may damage them.

Most plumbers advise placing pieces of rubber under the surfaces of the legs in contact with the bowl of the sanitary ware, which will greatly reduce the ringing when filling the tub with water.

The most difficult thing is to install a cast-iron bath, which has an extremely high mass, so moving it is very difficult and dangerous for repairing the room itself. If the size of the room allows, it is necessary to transfer the product to the bathroom and install it already there. First - drain and legs, then alignment is carried out.

If the cast iron model is equipped with decorative legs, this greatly complicates the installation. The fact is that the installation of such a product is a rather laborious and responsible process that only an experienced and professional master can handle. It will not be possible to install linings under the legs, as this completely destroys the attractive appearance of the product, and filing is extremely difficult, because accurate measurements are needed here.

Moreover, each time it will be necessary to turn the bath over, move it or move it to the side, which is extremely difficult, given its considerable weight. For this reason, to install a cast-iron bathtub, which is equipped with decorative legs, it is necessary to pre-level the floor surface (using materials that are characterized by increased strength).

Jacuzzi

Hot tubs are quite interesting and useful products for improving people's health. The combination of water with air bubbles provides relaxing and therapeutic effects. For the first time, a jacuzzi appeared in the United States of America, this happened in the middle of the last century. Long time only very wealthy people could afford a hot tub.

Now manufacturers of sanitary products offer a wide variety of models that are distinguished by an affordable price. In the era of high technology, there are many hot tubs on the market today, which are distinguished by small dimensions, a wide range of functions and attractive appearance.

The installation technology of such models has its own nuances and distinctive features, so it is better to entrust the installation to an experienced specialist.

Before starting the installation, you should prepare all the diagrams and recommendations of the manufacturer, as well as accurately mark the places where the connection to the sewer will take place, the installation of electrical wiring, and provide water supply. Due to the need to connect electricity, the installation of such a model must take place with strict observance of fire safety requirements, otherwise everything can lead to sad consequences. In this case, special attention must be paid to the power of the device and the voltage in electrical system apartments or houses.

When installing a jacuzzi, one should also take into account the fact that sockets, switches and other appliances must be located at a distance of at least 70 cm from the bath itself. Otherwise, it may lead to oxidation (due to increased humidity). This may cause a fire.

Complete with any hot tub are special legs that allow you to fix the model in the desired position and at a certain height so that there are no distortions. If you do not install the jacuzzi on legs, then during operation it will vibrate, which will not allow you to get the desired effect from its operation.

The installation of the legs should be carried out as carefully as possible, using a building level that will achieve accuracy. After alignment, the jacuzzi can be connected to other communications through a strobe.

Embedded option

Mounting a built-in bathtub in the floor will not work without a pit. Moreover, an ordinary dug hole will not work here. It will also be necessary to carry out concreting of the walls and floor, thereby guaranteeing the space necessary for the installation and maintenance of the plumbing fixture. In the process of installing a built-in bath, certain nuances should be taken into account:

• The contours of the pit must coincide with the contours of the bath and overlap with its sides. In other words, the bathtub must be supported by the sides.
• The depth should be such that the sanitary ware is raised above the base by 50 mm or less.
• Access to the pit should be provided so that the connection and installation of the bath can be carried out without problems. All water and sewer communications are displayed here. The ideal solution there will be a hiding of all pipes in an invisible hatch.

Work order

To understand the general principles of installing a bath, you should consider the sequence of work, which will be the same for any model, including acrylic and cast iron options. Of course, each species has its own distinctive features, there are also certain subtleties installation, but first you need to find out general principles and installation rules.

So, installing a bath includes the following steps:

• Assembly and installation of the drain siphon. Most of the models on the market are assembled thanks to union nuts and rubber seals. Beginners often make the mistake of sealing the joints, which in the future causes the product to break. An assembly diagram should be used.
• Installation of a bathtub on supports. Here you should also be extremely careful. There are quite a few designs of supporting elements for a bath. You can find both complex and simple options. Some craftsmen prefer to use foam blocks or bricks rather than factory legs. Steel options look much better when installed in this way.
• Warming and soundproofing. This stage applies to all types of bathtubs, except for cast iron ones, which already heat up perfectly and retain heat for a long time. In addition, they do not make too much noise when filling. Heat and sound insulation should be carried out using mounting foam, which is applied not only to the bottom, but also to the sides of the sanitary ware. The amount of foam directly depends on the size of the bath.

• Installation. For ease of use, any bath should be set relative to the horizon. During the installation process, there is no need to lay slopes, since this moment is taken into account by the manufacturer when developing the bath. Support legs equipped with screws for adjustment.
• Fastening. This stage also applies only to steel and acrylic bathtubs, since the own mass of a cast-iron product is quite enough so as not to sag under the pressure of water and a person. It is necessary to carry out fastening with the help of metal hooks, which are usually used to install boilers. In addition, special brackets supplied by the manufacturer with the bath can be used. This fastening allows you to prevent depressurization during the operation of the sanitary ware.
• Joint sealing. This stage is the last one. This work can be done in several ways. In most cases, it will be advisable to use a white corner, but you can get by with self-adhesive border tape. If the gap between the bathroom and the wall is minimal, you can limit yourself to one bottle of sanitary silicone.

In the event that a corner bath will be installed, you need to pay attention to whole line features. Such products are rounded or oval in shape, and they must be mounted on a pre-prepared pedestal or wooden frame.

Important nuances

During the installation of the bath, you should be extremely careful so that the product can fully perform the functions assigned to it and last as long as possible. Pay attention to such points:

• the legs are mounted in such a way that the siphon outlet element (pipe) is installed without problems in the sewer pipe;
• the bath must be installed with a slope;
• be sure to take into account the parallelism of the sides relative to the floor.

The tightness of the junction of the bath and the sewer must be monitored. If you are going to start using a plumbing device, you should pour 10 liters of cold and hot water into the bath.

If a bathtub with a hydromassage or other electronic functions is installed, it is necessary to check the correctness of the additional communication.

During the installation process of the bath, the main problems associated with the material from which the product is made should also be taken into account. Acrylic options have the following disadvantages.

• When hot water is drawn in, the walls of the sanitary ware begin to “play”. This is due to the fact that the heated acrylic walls lose their original rigidity.
• Legs - one more weak side acrylic plumbing. Standard legs cannot boast of impressive stability. Even if you set everything to the ideal level, you still won’t be able to save the situation.
• The bottom of such a bath feels great with light loads, but it can sag a lot due to significant weight.
• When taking in water, a drumming effect occurs due to the thinness of the walls of the acrylic bath. Such a drawback is noticed in any baths, but in acrylic it is most pronounced.

Cast iron and steel bathtubs boast good thermal insulation, but acrylic options in this regard leave much to be desired. Heated water quickly warms up the walls, but just as quickly cools them. This problem can be solved with the help of conventional cylinders with polyurethane foam. In addition, this method allows you to solve the problem associated with the soundproofing of the bath.

Foaming is carried out as follows:

• the bath is turned upside down, and cardboard or other protective material is placed under it (this insert is needed in order to acrylic surface not scratched);
• the surface is cleaned of dust and dirt;
• foam is applied and residues are removed from the surface.

It is much more economical and more comfortable to use a foam gun, but if it is not available, you can limit yourself to a simple balloon.

To ensure the durability and efficiency of the entire structure, you should correctly select the material of the drain fittings.

Most of the products on the market are made of PVC or propylene, which are reliable, attractive and durable. Latest material much more expensive, but the walls are smoother, which greatly reduces the likelihood of blockages.

The idea to purchase cheap models of drain fittings should be immediately abandoned. The fact is that budget models non-separable, therefore they are unsuitable for repair. Already after a couple of months of operation, the rust seizes the bolt so strongly that it cannot be unscrewed.

Don't buy hard pipe. An excellent solution would be a corrugated hose, which is extremely easy to install and guarantees excellent water permeability. Thanks to this, you can be sure that the bathroom will not flood with water.

Dismantling

If the bath has expired, the siphons have rusted or become unusable, it is better to replace the old bowl with a new one.

Initially, it seems that this is quite simple and does not require professional skills, but it is extremely difficult to properly remove the bath so as not to damage the enamel or other parts of the product. You need to act as follows:

• Make sure the tub legs are securely fastened, since during dismantling the sanitary ware may fall and injure the fingers of a person. This may well happen if one of the legs is rotten or deformed. To fix the supports, special wedges should be used, which must be fixed properly.
• Now you can start disconnecting the siphon and drains. The drain structure is usually disassembled quite easily, however, there are times when it is made of the same material as the bath. As a result of long-term operation, parts can rust to each other, so dismantling can only be done with the help of a grinder.
• Along the perimeter, the bath is fixed thanks to a cement-sand mortar. To get rid of the connecting layer, you can use a hammer or puncher. The frozen solution must be beaten off as carefully as possible so as not to damage the tile.
• When the bath is detached from the wall, it will be possible to proceed to the next stage of dismantling. The bathtub is moved away from the wall with the help of a mount, which is used as a lever.

In this case, the weight of the structure must be taken into account. Do not forget that it greatly exceeds the weight of an acrylic or iron product.

It is much more difficult to dismantle a cast-iron bath if it is necessary to maintain its integrity and attractive appearance. This type of plumbing is large and heavy, so it will not work to dismantle it yourself. Over the years of use, the bathtub is so firmly fixed to the wall and floor covering that it is extremely difficult to remove it.

Cast iron bathtubs can last a very long time, which is why they are in high demand. When starting dismantling work, determine whether it is possible to restore protective covering or not. There are many ways to significantly extend the life of the bathtub, one of the most effective and popular lately is the use of an acrylic liner. The complexity of the restoration work depends on a number of factors, including the weight and dimensions of the model.

The above instructions are designed to dismantle the product with minimal deterioration in the appearance of the room itself. Only the replacement of plumbing equipment is implied.

If you decide to overhaul the bathroom (with the replacement of all communications and plumbing fixtures), then you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the product.

Dismantling without saving the bowl will be faster, since the algorithm of actions is very simple. The only thing you will need to pay attention to is safety precautions, because with the wrong approach, you can damage your legs or arms.

To clean the bath, you must carry out the following work:

• First, disconnect the siphon from the plumbing device itself. You can do this with a regular grinder.
• Using a puncher, you need to disconnect the bath from the wall.
• Since the bath will not be used in the future, you can cut it into several pieces. This will not only simplify the dismantling process, but also allow you to take it out of the room without any problems.
• You can hit the bottom with a sledgehammer. Usually one good blow is enough for the product to be divided into several parts. It will also be possible to effectively disassemble the bath into several fragments thanks to gas cutting.
• If dismantling is carried out by one person, the bath should be divided into many parts. Cast iron models are quite heavy, so each piece will be quite heavy.

When starting work, first of all, pay attention to the material from which the sanitary ware is made. This will help you choose the most suitable dismantling method.

So, it can be noted that the installation of a bathtub is a complex and responsible process that requires a competent approach and care. It is important not only to choose the right plumbing fixture, but also to professionally prepare the room for its installation. In the selection process, you should pay attention to the material, size and shape of the product, as well as its manufacturer.

Move steel and plastic plumbing products should be extremely careful, because such a coating can be damaged, deformed. The easiest to work with is a cast iron bathtub, which is so heavy and strong that it is almost impossible to break it. However, incorrect transportation can cause damage to the wall or door in the bathroom, as well as increased pressure on the floors. All this is also complicated by the fact that the installation of the bath takes place in a small room, where it is extremely difficult to fit two people.

One of the most important conditions for self-installation of the bathroom is the presence of a skilled assistant who can maintain the sanitary ware, supply the necessary tools and provide other necessary assistance. When installing this type of plumbing, you must be careful and accurate, because an accidentally fallen bathtub can lead to a crack or breakage. If cast-iron models can be somehow reanimated, then a damaged acrylic product cannot be repaired, so it will have to be replaced.

Step by step we will analyze the installation of a steel bath. We will securely fix it on legs, learn about installation tricks that increase the service life and characteristics of plumbing, make a niche for a bathtub from moisture-resistant drywall and a Knauf metal profile.

Step 1: Installing the legs

For installation, a steel rectangular bath of the Spanish company Roca of the Contesa series with dimensions of 1700 × 700 × 400 mm was selected. The volume of the bath is 185 l, and the thickness of the steel is 2.4 mm. The main advantage of a steel bath is its lightness. The presented plumbing weighs 29 kg, so one person can handle its installation. But installing a cast-iron bath alone will not be easy. Its minimum weight is 80 kg and varies up to 180 kg. You will have to connect an assistant or even a brigade.

Installation of the bath begins with the fastening of the legs. In order not to damage the floor covering, lay something soft under the bath. You can not remove the factory cardboard yet, this is a reliable substrate from scratches. Flip the bath. Self-adhesive structures, as in our case, which follow the contour of the bottom, are considered good legs for fastening. They have height adjustment, prevent distortions and uneven floors. To install a bathtub on legs, first try on U-shaped supports. After marking, degrease the surface with alcohol, ensuring reliable adhesion. We attach the structures with double-sided tape. We fix the supports exactly on both sides of the bath, avoiding distortion. There are also bolt-on feet, but we do not recommend using them. They may not withstand the uneven load on the bath and damage the enamel.

Legs are supplied with long adjustable studs. They must be inserted all the way into the plastic tips. We do this smoothly, making sure that the threaded connection is not broken. We adjust the hairpin with a rubber mallet.

We proceed to the installation of studs. We pre-screw the nuts to the plastic tips and screw the stud into the intended hole on the support. It is this detail that allows us to adjust the bath in height and horizon.

Step 2: Assemble Drain Fittings

After installing the legs, turn the bath over. Installing a drainage system. Unpack it and study the instructions. We start the assembly with a bottom drain.

We install the drain socket in the technological hole under the bottom of the bath. This element consists of two parts - a tube with a funnel-shaped extension and a cup-shaped chrome-plated part, which prevents large debris from entering the drain system. During installation, the main thing is not to forget to put all the gaskets, and if you are not sure of their quality, use additional silicone for reliable sealing.

We proceed to the connection of the overflow. This element is represented by a tube, one end of which is installed in the upper hole under the rim of the bathtub, and the other end is installed in the lower drain leading to the sewer drain. When buying a kit, choose a corrugated overflow tube. It is simply mounted, has a larger clearance of the outer diameter than a rigid tube, which means that the probability of water overflowing over the edge is minimal.

The modern market offers two drain systems for bathtubs. A well-known set with a plug on a chain and with an automatic stopper. In the second option, opening (closing) occurs with the help of a mechanism that is mounted on the overflow, as we have. In this case, there is no need to bend over and pull out the plug, just turn the lever.

This is what the final install looks like drain system.

Step 3: Calculate the height of the bath and install the stop

We calculate the height at which the bath will be installed. Correct measurement provide not only a good fit with facing tiles and the supply of a plumbing unit, but it will also allow you to install a siphon with a deeper elbow. The likelihood of leakage of foreign odors in this case is minimal. Raising the bathtub an additional 5 cm will also eliminate the accumulation of hair and debris in the siphon and the metal mesh of the drain.

To strengthen the bath against the wall, mount the stop, the main thing is that it is stable. We used a metal profile from Knauf.

We fasten the profile with the help of dowel-screws, we choose the step ourselves. It is advisable to mount the fasteners as often as possible.

This is what the metal stop looks like after attaching it to the dowel-screws.

Step 4: Fitting the Bathtub to the Bricks

We return the bath and put it in its place. Since the drain hole in the wall is a little high and the legs are not long enough, you will have to install the bathtub on bricks to even out the level. In addition, the metal legs are not strong enough and heavy, they can easily twist under the weight of the body or water. Beauty is not the main thing here, since in the future you will close the niche under the drywall bathroom and tile it. When laying out the brick, do not forget to leave enough space at the siphon so that you have free access. We carry out bricklaying on a cement-sand mortar.

We draw a line against the wall and move the bath. We apply silicone sealant to the screwed profile, and below the marked line. After the silicone has been applied, put the bath in its original place.

We expose the bath exactly in level with the help of adjusting bolts.

We seal the joints between the bathroom and the wall with silicone sealant.

To firmly fix the legs and prevent slipping, we strengthen them with brick fragments, we seal the joints with cement mortar. The legs should be sealed especially firmly when installing a heavy cast-iron bath.

After we pulled the back corner of the bathtub and securely attached it to the wall, we attach a file for rigidity from the ends, and put it on tile glue.

Step 5: Connecting the siphon to the sewer and checking for leaks

When the silicone sealant and glue dry, we proceed to connect the siphon to the sewer drain.

The connection will take place using a rigid structure. To separate the system, we use corners at 45 ° C. Unlike a corrugated tube, such a system is easier to operate and clean. If a blockage occurs, it is enough to open the shut-off valve and clean the drain.

This is how the system should look after connecting a hard siphon to the sewer.

We install the bottom drain plug and the rotary lever for opening and closing the side drain.

To check the quality of the installation of the drain system, open the tap and fill the bath with water. When the plug is closed, no leakage is observed - the upper neck is assembled correctly.

When the bath is half full, open the plug, check all other connections for leaks.

Everything is dry, you can use the bathroom. If leaks are observed, most likely you have loosely tightened the nuts, skewed, or not firmly fixed the adapters. Tighten the nuts and direct the structure in the desired direction.

Step 6: Foam blowing and sheathing a niche for a bath

Despite the advantages, a steel bath has two main drawbacks - the water in it cools quickly and increased noise is created when water is collected. A budget option to eliminate these problems is blowing with mounting foam. Installing an acrylic and cast iron bath does not require this procedure. These materials have good sound insulation and low thermal conductivity. However, if you want to improve quality characteristics, no one forbids you to blow such baths. It is better to apply mounting foam on a wet surface than on a dry one, small areas. Leave a small gap around the technological holes, about 2 cm. Excess foam can be easily removed with a sharp blade.

We proceed to the assembly of the frame from the ceiling profile. Here you are again using the Knauf profile. We start by marking the depth and width of the niche. We mount the guides to the floor and fix them with dowel-nails. We install the profile on the sides, deepening it into a niche for the thickness of drywall sheets and tiles with glue. Together, this distance will be approximately 22–24 mm, given that the thickness of the drywall sheet is about 12–13 mm, and the tiles with glue are 10–11 mm. It is better to take the distance with a margin. If the niche is slightly recessed, it's not scary. But the bulging of the plate will look ugly. We connect the side strips with a wide ceiling profile, fixing them close to the side of the bathtub, we foam the gaps. We fix the vertical profiles in the middle with self-tapping screws.

Getting to the skin, use moisture resistant drywall Knauf. The standard sheet size is 3000×1200×12 mm. A bath up to 170 cm long will require no more than one such sheet. For an inclined surface of a niche, we measure a rectangle of the desired length and width, cut it out and fasten it. We sew the rest of the niche. The resulting space between the inclined and straight parts is closed with drywall triangles cut to size. We do not pay attention to small cracks, these errors will not be visible under the tile. After sheathing, we make a window of the desired size and install a plumbing hatch. The final stage is the application of glue and tiling.

Step 7: Seal the seams with silicone

The missing tile between the bathroom and the wall is laid, the seams are worn, now we proceed to the last stage of finishing - sealing the seams. We clean the seam between the bathroom and the wall, wipe everything dry. For sealing, we will use white silicone, which will not allow water to seep through the side of the bath.

To prevent silicone from smearing the tile and bath, we glue a barrier in the form of masking tape around the entire perimeter. It will prevent the sealant from getting on the cladding and plumbing.

The cleaned and prepared seam is filled with white silicone sealant.

We make the seam even, smear it gently with a finger, a plastic spatula or a spatula. Wipe excess sealant with a damp cloth.

When the silicone dries slightly, carefully remove the masking tape.

After the silicone has completely hardened, the bath is ready for use.

The bathroom is our everything. We start the day here - we wash ourselves, brush our teeth, put ourselves in order. We come here during the day to fix our make-up. And, finally, what better way to wash away all daytime fatigue than a warm, relaxing bath with fragrant foam or salt? That is why so many people, despite the dynamism of life and the convenience of the shower, still opt for a bath. And the question of how to properly install a bathtub with your own hands remains one of the most frequently asked questions. By the way, installing a bathtub with your own hands will significantly save your money. cash- It's not cheap work.

Installing a bath with your own hands is not so easy, it requires a certain skill and experience, as well as the appropriate tools. However, if you follow all the recommendations and approach the matter responsibly, it is quite within the power of any person.

Choosing a bath

When you install a bath with your own hands, it is important to understand. That its installation depends on what exactly it is made of. The shape of this design should also be taken into account. Therefore, one of the first tasks that you need to solve is to choose the bath that you will install.

The shape of the bath and its color are also very important, but these plumbing features are more likely to please only your aesthetic taste.

Size and configuration are important because the bathroom needs to have rims that are comfortable for everyone, additional fittings you need such as seating, and other features.

It is one thing if a family of two lives in the house, and quite another if, in addition to the husband and wife, three children of different ages and a grandmother swim in the bathroom.

However, both the shape and color of the bath are secondary.

But the service life depends on the material from which the plumbing is made.

Baths are:

• steel;
• cast iron;
• acrylic.

Advantages and disadvantages

Plumbing made of steel looks good, and quite budget. It is lightweight which makes it easy to install. Steel bathtubs come in different shapes and are widely represented in the range. These advantages of plumbing can not attract.

However, the water in it cools down very quickly, which is inconvenient for those who like to lie in warm water longer.

A steel bath is quite easily deformed, and if you have obese people in your family, it will also sag under heavy weight. In this case, when installing a steel bath with your own hands, it is advisable to make additional capital supports. For example, from a brick. In addition, the water rumbles violently as it pours into the steel bath. For some, this is very annoying.

Cast iron is very reliable. A cast iron bath will serve you for a long time, remaining like new, while the heat transfer from cast iron is small, so the water in such a bath does not cool for a long time. Water does not rattle when it hits the bottom of a cast iron tub.

However, this bath is not budget option, installing a cast-iron bath with your own hands is quite difficult due to the severity of the material. Even together, this will not be easy to do, you will definitely need helpers. At the same time, a cast iron bath is also fragile, it is quite easy to damage it during careless installation.

But you can even bathe an elephant in it, and there will be no deformation of the material.

Acrylic bathtubs are cute, lightweight, and inexpensive. If such a bath becomes unusable, it can be easily replaced with a new one. The water in it cools for a long time, does not make noise when filled, and installing such an acrylic bath with your own hands is quite simple.

However, an acrylic bathtub is short-lived and unstable.

Bathroom preparation

Even though you already know exactly what kind of bathtub you will get in the near future, you don't need to do this until you have prepared your bathroom and done the preparatory work.

First you need to accurately determine the place where you put the bath. This is purely a matter of taste - it is customary to install a bath close to the wall, but some put it in the center of the bathroom.

At the same time, if you are planning a renovation in the bathroom, it is better to lay tiles on the walls after you install the bath. It will simply be more convenient to seal all the gaps and cover up the cracks.

Definitely need to clean up old bath. If you have it made of steel or acrylic, there should not be any special problems with dismantling. But if your apartment has a cast-iron bath, removing it will not be so easy at all. However, dismantling old bath everyone succeeds.

It is imperative to eliminate all problems with the sewer drain. There should be no leaks, flowing pipes, faucets that are difficult to hold onto the hoses.

If you wave your hand at the sewer, and install new bath, you will have very big problems when the water starts to leak.

At the same stage of plumbing work, it is necessary to resolve the issue of connecting communications, install a siphon, tee, pipes and other components of the cold and hot water system.

Bath installation process

Do-it-yourself steel bath installation

The steel bath is easy to lift, turn, and bring into the bathroom. You can easily do it yourself, without involving anyone as an assistant.

However, you can’t just take and put a steel bath. By itself, it will not stand firmly and confidently, given the weight of the structure.

The steel bath must be fixed, and fixed on three sides. And on the fourth side, experts recommend installing the same capital support that we talked about above. Such a support is made of brick, which can then be lined with a finishing material. For example, tiles. In this case, the bath will stand quite solidly.

Manufacturers often attach legs to a steel bath. To install a steel bath on legs with your own hands, they should be adjusted in height, and short supports of the same size should be used.

The algorithm of actions when installing a steel bath with your own hands is as follows:

• put the bath on the floor with the bottom up (at the same time, you need to put something under the bath to avoid the risk of scratching it;
• try on the supports to the places where you will attach them. One of them should be mounted next to the drain hole, and the second - on the opposite edge of the bottom, on level ground;
• put the supports in the right places and press firmly;
• screw the tips that are attached to the supports to them;
• turn the bath upside down, and install it on the legs in the allotted place, adjusting its position (the bath should be at a slight slope);
• connect the sewer and cover the joints;
• fill the gaps with special mounting foam;
• make a major support of brick;
• revet the brick with any finishing material.

If you do everything right, then the steel bath will serve you for a long time, it will be stable enough, and it will not deform.

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath installation

A cast iron bath is not as easy to install as a steel bath, primarily because of its weight. To bring it into an apartment or house, you will definitely need helpers. Raising a cast-iron bathtub is quite difficult even with two people.

But this very weight, which creates inconvenience for you when transferring and installing a cast-iron bath, gives it stability. Therefore, you can install a cast-iron bath directly on the legs, without any additional supports.

To properly install a cast-iron bath with your own hands, you must do the following:

• put it on its side. This should be done in such a way that the bottom of the bath is turned towards the wall, and the drain is directed towards the sewer drain. This is done for the convenience of installing the siphon;
• install the legs on the side that looks at the ceiling;
• turn the bath on the other side, and securely fasten the legs on the other side;
• put a cast-iron bath on legs;
• align the structure so that the bath is at a slight slope towards the drain;
• move the bath close to the wall, trying to do it in such a way that the gap between the wall and the bath itself is as small as possible;
• seal this gap with mounting foam;
• install the drain and secure the connection.

Tighten the bolts on the bath legs carefully enough so as not to break the plastic base.

Sometimes cast-iron bathtubs are installed on brick supports. Such an installation is very reliable, and quite accessible to everyone.

Bricks are simply laid under the cast-iron bottom of the bathroom so that the bottom rests on the brick base. Usually they make one large brick base, since the bathtub is heavy. However, some people prefer to make two major brickwork for a cast-iron bath.

Do-it-yourself acrylic bath installation

The best thing about an acrylic bathtub is its light weight, even compared to a steel bathtub. Therefore, the process of installing an acrylic bathtub is quite simple, and you can handle it alone, without involving anyone as assistants.

However, because of the same advantage, you will definitely have to make a special frame so that the acrylic bathtub is stably held in one position.

It is possible to purchase an acrylic bathtub, to which a frame installation kit is already attached, including all the necessary components. Moreover, bathtubs from different manufacturers also differ in different sets for fasteners, so you must definitely find out this question before buying.

Please note that acrylic bathtubs can be of various shapes and configurations.

On the one hand, it is very convenient, because you can not only satisfy your exacting taste, but also use the bathroom space in the most optimal way.

However, there is also a downside. It is clear that the more complex more interesting shape acrylic bath, the more difficult it will be for you to install it. This is explained simply - it is not so easy to make a frame that will exactly repeat all the interesting outlines of an acrylic bath.

If the acrylic bathtub you purchased does not have a mounting kit, then it is not difficult to make a frame for a secure installation of the bathtub yourself.

To make such a frame, you will need a brick, as well as additionally - timber and plywood. At the same time, additional wooden materials must certainly be treated with a special compound that protects the wood from moisture.

The frame should be installed so that it is attached to some kind of support, for example, to the bathroom wall. If you simply attach the edge of the acrylic bathtub to the structure, the entire load will fall on the frame. And the frame can easily become unusable.

Vertical racks are placed at the corners of the acrylic bath. Exactly the same racks are installed on the sides of the bath at a distance of 40-50 cm from each other. They do not have to be very high, and, as a rule, their height is chosen in accordance with the height of the bath.

Do-it-yourself steps for installing an acrylic bath should be done in the following sequence:

• first you need to make a brick base with a hole for draining water;
• fix the base of the frame from the bars;
• where the vertical racks will be, put the bars;
• install such racks;
• install the upper base for stability, and put plywood on it;
• brickwork- the base is covered with cement;
• install an acrylic bath on this frame;
• give the bath the correct position, setting it in level;
• be sure to fill the tub with water! This must be done so that the cement exactly repeats the shape of the bottom of the bath. The water in the bath is left until the solution is completely dry, after which it can be drained;
• decorate the frame so that the brickwork is not visible.

findings

As you can see, installing a bathtub with your own hands, regardless of what material it is made of, is not so difficult, and with the appropriate skills, even a non-plumbing installation specialist can handle it.

The most important rules that must be strictly observed when installing a bathtub with your own hands are as follows:

• you need to take care of a good support;
• the bath must be given a sure slope;
• it is necessary to carefully monitor how the sewer drain is connected;
• seams need to be sealed.

Subject to these rules, you will be able to install the bath with your own hands, regardless of the material from which it is made, and the bath will serve you and your family members for many years.

You need to choose the right plumbing. There are many varieties of it. Today, the owners of houses and apartments often purchase showers. However, baths do not lose their popularity. Such plumbing today can be made from different materials.

You can do the installation yourself. It is important to know all the subtleties of this process. How to install a bath with your own hands, expert advice will help. For each type of plumbing, special methods apply. They will be discussed further.

Installation Features

When considering how to properly install a bath, you need to start with a general description of this process. Also important is the choice of plumbing. The bathtub is a large product. It can be quite heavy. At the same time, such plumbing must be handled carefully so as not to damage the surface. The coating may crack or chip.

Often, installation has to be carried out in a cramped room. This increases the risk of damage to the tub. Cast iron varieties can themselves damage the finish. Therefore, it is recommended to work with an assistant. This makes installation faster and easier.

It is also worth considering one more nuance. The connection of the drain and siphon is carried out almost by touch. To complete the task, the master must have certain skills.

When learning how to install pay attention to the advice of experts. They argue that it is extremely important to perform all actions carefully. You will need to be careful. Otherwise, the work will need to be carried out again. So, for example, dropping a tool into a bath can damage its surface. In this case, you will need to buy new plumbing.

The type of material from which the bath is made depends on the actions of the installer. Therefore, if you want to do the installation yourself, you need to consider the features of each type of this plumbing. This will determine which type of bath better fit in a particular case.

Steel and acrylic bath

The answer to this question can be obtained if we consider all the subtleties of this process. First you need to consider the features of each. They are steel, acrylic and cast iron. Each variety has its own characteristics.

Rigid and relatively inexpensive is a steel bath. It is easy to install it yourself. It doesn't even require an assistant. The disadvantage of steel varieties is their fragility. When water is poured into such a bowl, the material makes a fairly loud sound. Bath "plays", which is reflected in the state of the enamel. This type of plumbing is suitable for a small room. Here it can be leaned against three walls. This will extend its service life. It should also be noted that the steel bath easily gives off heat to the surrounding space. The water in it cools down quickly. More costs will be required to pay for energy resources for heating water.

One good option is an acrylic bathtub. Its service life reaches 20 years. Such a bath is more expensive than steel varieties. Her weight is also average. To install this type of plumbing, you will need the help of a second person. However, installation does not cause any particular difficulties.

Before considering how to install an acrylic bath, you need to know about its disadvantages. Even high-quality bowls do not tolerate impact chemical substances. Therefore, cleaning the surface presents certain difficulties. Do not use abrasive, aggressive chemicals. Leaves no marks on the bowl pure water.

Cast iron bath

Special attention is given to the consideration of the technique of how to install a cast-iron bath. Such varieties are distinguished by large weight. She has many advantages. However, this bowl is not without its drawbacks.

Cast iron varieties of bathtubs are considered almost eternal. However, this statement is only true for proper care and handling the bathroom. This is a heavy product. You will need a strong assistant to carry out its installation. It is recommended to install such a bath in a small room where it can be rested against three walls.

In addition to a long service life, cast iron bowls have practically no advantages. So, an acrylic bathtub surpasses them in terms of practicality and economy. The plastic heats up almost instantly. However, it does not give off heat to the environment. To fill the bowl, you need quite a bit of hot water. If the owners have an acrylic bath, they can install a boiler with only 50 liters.

A cast iron bath, on the other hand, consumes a lot of heat. At the same time, she quickly gives it to the environment. The bowl takes a long time to warm up. If you have a conventional cast iron bath, you will need to install a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters. At the same time, the cost of paying for energy resources increases 1.5 times compared to steel varieties, and also 2.5 times compared to acrylic structures.

When figuring out how to install a bath, you also need to consider the features of installing cast-iron varieties. Due to the large weight, installation is much more complicated. It is almost impossible to put a bowl on an already prepared siphon without damaging it. Therefore, it is mounted to the bowl in advance. However, even in this case, the possibility of damage cannot be ruled out.

Installing a cast iron bathtub on legs is also challenging task. If you purchase adjustable type supports, they can quickly break. This installation option is only suitable for a small room where the bath is pressed against three walls.

Preparing for installation

Before considering the technology of how to install a bath with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the preparation process. This step cannot be neglected.

First you need to dismantle and remove the old bath from the room (if it was already installed here). If a cast-iron bowl was previously installed, it will need to be cut, split into pieces. If the room is small, its dismantling can be difficult. There are no such problems with acrylic and steel bathtubs.

Next, you need to properly prepare the floor and walls, remove all irregularities. You will need to purchase a number of tools. You need to prepare a grinder, a chisel, a hammer and a screwdriver. You will also need cement mortar, polyurethane foam. If the installation will be carried out on the frame, you will need to purchase material for its assembly.

Buy paint, mounting foam, sealant. In the course of work, electrical tape may be required. To install the bath, you need legs, drain fittings and other related items. It is also recommended to purchase a new faucet. It will harmoniously complement the appearance of the bath.

If the owners have plastic sewer pipes installed, you need to purchase a drain corrugation with a diameter of 50 mm. For cast iron pipes this element of the system should have a diameter of 40 mm.

When learning how to install a corner or straight bath, you need to pay attention to the preparation of the sewer drain. If there are defects, malfunctions in this system, they must be eliminated before It is especially important to eliminate leaks, if any are found.

Also, before starting work, you need to study the instructions of the manufacturer of the bath. The manual describes in detail the installation technology. This information must be studied before starting work.

Walls and floor

There are certain standards for installing a bathtub. This applies to the preparation and installation process. It is recommended to carry out wall cladding in the room after installing the bowl. This allows you to comply with all sanitary and hygienic standards. When the tile is mounted after installing the bath, its bottom edge hangs over the plumbing. It is covered with a waterproofing compound. This avoids the appearance of fungus, rot.

If the bath is installed already in the finished room, which does not require overhaul, her legs should be at least 2 cm higher than the old plumbing. Otherwise, an ugly gap appears. Its finishing will cause a number of difficulties. Even if you use a similar tile, the new material will slightly differ in color from the old coating.

It is also worth paying due attention correct finish gender. Many novice masters have a question, how to install a bath so that it does not stagger? To perform the installation correctly, you need to level the floor. At the same time, durable materials are chosen for finishing the base. The weight of the bath with water is quite large.

The cement layer under the bowl must be continuous. It is not laid with a comb, but by extrusion. If there are voids in the mortar, the tile may crack from the weight of the tub at that location.

Experienced experts recommend installing larch logs on the floor (other types of wood are not suitable). They are laid along. They will have legs. Boards must be treated with special antiseptic solutions. This technique will evenly distribute the load on the floor. Also, the logs will help to properly adjust the height of the bath. So that subsequently the boards do not shrink, you need to install a bowl on them and draw water into it. In this position, the system remains for at least 2 days (preferably a week).

Features of installing a corner acrylic bowl

There are a number of recommendations on how to install an acrylic bath. It is necessary to take into account the features of this design. Corner acrylic bowls are very popular today. They will harmoniously look both in a small and spacious bathroom. This shape of the bowl allows you to install a lot of additional elements interior. For example, if there is a corner bath in the room, it will be possible to place a washbasin with a cabinet. There is also enough space to install a bidet or washing machine.

There are several nuances of installing acrylic corner baths. They need to be taken into account before starting work. Similar designs can be with the right or left type of location. The ease of connecting the water supply and sewer outlet depends on the correct choice of the type of bowl.

The walls for installing such a bath must be very even. Otherwise, the structure will not be able to be leveled. It will wobble and fall apart quickly.

Corner bowls are installed on the legs. At the same time, the supports must be firmly fixed around the entire perimeter. They will later serve to fasten the frame and its guides. This work requires precision and accuracy. You will need to consider in detail how to install the bath on the frame.

Where the bowl will be adjacent to the wall, you will need to mount flexible plinth. It does not deform during vibrations, and will also avoid water leakage. Otherwise, the installation of a corner acrylic bathtub is similar to the installation technology of any bowl made of this material.

Mounting the acrylic bowl on the frame

You should consider frame technology, how to properly install an acrylic bath. For built-in plumbing, this is one of the best installation options. To carry out the work you will need building level. Its length should correspond to the diagonal of the acrylic product. The hammer must have a rubber tip.

To sewer outlet pipe needs to be attached. It must be flexible and have the same diameter as the tub outlet. Here you need to attach a siphon. If it is new, you need to carefully study the manufacturer's instructions. How to install a siphon on a bath is indicated by the company that supplies the bowl. All the nuances of this process are discussed here.

The siphon will need to be pre-assembled. It is attached to the bath, smearing the joints with sanitary silicone. It freezes within 4 hours.

After that, you need to mount the frame. First fix the guides along the wall. These profiles must be fixed as evenly as possible. Other elements of the frame will be mounted from them. They are installed on the sides. Vertical posts are fixed to them. The connection is made by welding or bolts. The corners must be checked with a level. If one of them is lowered and the other is raised, you need to align them. At the same time, the lowered angle is raised, and not vice versa. After that, they are additionally fixed with strips for rigidity.

After that, an acrylic bowl is installed in the prepared structure. To her side hole you need to attach an overflow from the siphon, and a sewer drain to the central one. Plumbing communications are located above the bathroom, so their installation is carried out later. Next, a screen is set up, a plinth between the wall and the bowl.

Installation of an acrylic bowl on legs

There is a certain system on how to properly install a bathtub with legs. Supports are supplied complete with sanitary ware. There are special protrusions on the bottom of such bowls. Legs are mounted to them. In order for the structure to be rigid, the supports also need to be interconnected. To perform this procedure, nuts and studs are used.

Next, a siphon is connected to the drain. After that, you can proceed to the installation of the bath. The legs must be firmly planted on the floor surface. They are checked with a level. If one corner is raised, the other corners must also be raised. To do this, turn the bowl over. The legs are adjusted to the desired level.

After that, you can connect communications. The plumbing will need to be installed later. How to install the mixer on the bath, wash the manufacturer's instructions for this equipment.

In rare cases, acrylic. This is due to the complexity of performing such work. Bricks are difficult to install at all points of support at the same level. The bathtub can wobble because of this. The only way to fix this problem is to create a framework. Therefore, installing an acrylic bowl on bricks is not recommended by experts.

Cast iron bowl installation

special attention deserves the question of how to install a cast iron bath. In this case, the quality of the floor base and walls put forward increased requirements. Such a bowl is almost always installed on legs. Bricks can also be used in this case. The frame in this case will be difficult to assemble. It must be very durable. The metal of the guides must withstand a weight of about 500 kg.

First with reverse side bowls need to mount legs. They have plastic fittings. This element is necessary to level the position of the bath. Also, the nozzles prevent the destruction of the floor surface. Between themselves, the supports must be tightened with bolts. This will make the connection stronger. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. After that, a drain from the sewer is supplied. There shouldn't be any leaks.

Next, you need to mount the screen. This is an optional but desirable procedure. How to install a screen under the bath, expert advice will help. They recommend using a heater for this. This will reduce heat loss, which will be significant if a cast iron bowl is used. To do this, use a special mounting foam. It covers the back of the bowl. After that, you need to install a decorative screen. It should be 1 cm higher than the side. So the water will not overflow onto the floor.

The joints between the wall are closed with a plinth. All connections must be carefully treated with sealant. Installing a cast iron bowl requires considerable physical effort. It is better to entrust this work to professionals.

Installation of a steel bowl

When installing a steel bowl, the question of how to install a screen under the bath disappears. In the case of installing such a product, it is necessary to provide free access to all communications.

First, the bowl is placed upside down. Under it you need to lay a soft material. Next, try on the supports. The supporting channel must be adjusted so that the legs fit snugly against the bottom of the bowl. The joints must be degreased with alcohol. Do not use paint thinner.

Removed from pads protective film. Supports are attached to the places provided for them. They need to be pressed tight. Threaded studs must be carefully hammered into the plastic tips. The tip is screwed with nuts to the supports.

The bath is installed on legs. If necessary, their level must be adjusted. There should be a slight slope towards the drain. The sewerage and the mixer are connected. Joints must be sealed with high quality sealant. Next, you can attach the plinth to the wall. You can install a decorative screen. It is better to give preference to sliding structures.

Having considered how to install a bath, you can perform this procedure yourself. The quality of the installation will be high. The bathtub will last for many years.