Spathiphyllum reproduction types and methods. Spathiphyllum: how to plant seeds or seedlings? Process instruction and further care

Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, becomes unmanageable, it cannot painlessly replace the ground. At this time, they loosen and remove only upper layer... The spathiphyllum flower, meanwhile, is aging and loses its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable the plant is for you, it needs to prepare a replacement. The procedure will not seem complicated for those who transplant the flower into a larger container every year.

The principles of reproduction of spathiphyllum

The biology of the flower is such that it has no stems, and the lanceolate leaves emerge directly from the soil, from the root of the dormant buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates a vagina, from which a stem of a flower appears, wrapped in a snow-white veil, like in a diaper. So the curtain grows, which allows you to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains either a finished plant with roots, or a dormant bud.

How spathiphyllum multiplies by others known methods? It happens:

• obtaining a plant from dormant buds of a piece of rhizome;
• receiving young plant from cuttings or cuttings;
• sowing seeds.

When spathiphyllum multiplies in any vegetative way with good care it can bloom in 8-10 months. The seed method does not imply the transmission of signs of the uterine bush, flowering occurs in 3-4 years. In this case, there is a possibility of getting a completely new variety.

For vegetative propagation it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant is just starting to grow after the winter rest. However, in case of illness or for another reason, you can gently transplant the plant even during flowering.

Soil requirements or how to prepare the soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves a soil with a slight acidity, composed of equal parts:

• garden or turf land;
• leaf humus;
• sand.

Additionally, to make it look like natural composition a total of 1 part is added from fine coniferous bark, charcoal, ground into a fine fraction and brick or ceramic chips. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Regardless of whether to sow seeds or root cuttings, spathiphyllum propagation work is carried out at an indoor temperature of at least 21 degrees.

After planting or sowing the seeds, do everything possible to root. For this, a mini-greenhouse is created, the leaves and the soil surface are moistened, and conditions are created for the rapid restoration of the roots.

The choice of dishes is important for the vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum. The containers should not be spacious, or several divisions should be planted in them at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.

It is important when planting to leave enough space on top for, at the bottom to have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay, and not to deepen the root collar of the plant.

How to plant spathiphyllum, which is cramped in capacity

To do this, you need to water the plant so that it easily slides out of the old pot. Since the task is to get maximum amount delenok, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin, so that the roots are freed from the ground. Place the plant on the table. In this case, the parts into which you need to cut the bush when dividing will be clearly visible.

Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave the young light. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal and prepare containers. Pour 2 cm of soil over the drainage, and arrange the roots of the cut, slightly straightening them. Keeping the plant in weight, gently add a little prepared soil for spathiphyllum. Shake the glass lightly and compact the soil with your fingers. Having covered the roots, water the soil for compaction, after the earth has settled, add it to the neck and shake the plant, whether it sits tightly.

The first week you need to moisten the leaves from the spray bottle, keep the plant under a hood with low ventilation. If a clod of earth dries up, moisten it a little so as not to provoke decay of diseased roots. A sign that the plant has taken root will be the appearance of a young leaf. After that, gradually release the plant from the shelter, start feeding after 3 months in a half dose.

Reproduction by divisions without roots and pieces of rhizome

In this case, the cut should be germinated in water and then planted, as described above. Rhizomes are laid out on wet sand or peat. At the same time, until the roots germinate, the wet litter should be constant. Cover with foil on top, but ventilate. As a result, the fragment will release roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.

How does spathiphyllum propagate by seeds?

The plant is cross-pollinated, has male and female peduncles. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. The male one blooms 2-3 days earlier, the pollen disappears until the female flower ripens. Therefore, the seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom at different times. A pollinated female flower turns green over time, becomes puffy from bumps that turn into peas. Seeds ripen up to six months. Their vitality is low, and sowing must be done immediately after harvesting.

When purchasing seeds, you should make sure they are fresh. If a mother plant was a hybrid, the splitting of properties will be inevitable. Growing seedlings is carried out in a closed bowl, at times opening it for airing. Seedlings appear unevenly, several seedlings will appear from one pea. After germination, the plant must be accustomed to the air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.

Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of the apartment in winter. Can be sown to a large container for decoration office space and young flowers will create original compositionblooming at the same time.

Another way would be to grow the seedlings up to 5-6 cm and plant them in separate cups, from which you can also make any composition, but later it is easier to transplant them.

Video about spathiphyllum transplant

Over the years, the spathiphyllum bush grows, becomes unmanageable, it cannot painlessly replace the ground. At this time, only the top layer is loosened and removed. The spathiphyllum flower, meanwhile, is aging and loses its decorative effect. Therefore, no matter how memorable the plant is for you, it needs to prepare a replacement. The procedure will not seem complicated for those who transplant the flower into a larger container every year.

The principles of reproduction of spathiphyllum

The biology of the flower is such that it has no stems, and the lanceolate leaves emerge directly from the soil, from the root of the dormant buds. The resulting rosette of two or three leaves creates a vagina, from which a stem of a flower appears, wrapped in a snow-white veil, like in a diaper. So the curtain grows, which allows you to disassemble the rhizomes into pieces, each of which contains either a finished plant with roots, or a dormant bud.

How does spathiphyllum multiply in other known ways? It happens:

• obtaining a plant from dormant buds of a piece of rhizome;
• obtaining a young plant from cuttings or cuttings;
• sowing seeds.

When spathiphyllum propagates in any vegetative way with good care, it can bloom in 8-10 months. The seed method does not imply the transmission of signs of the uterine bush, flowering occurs in 3-4 years. In this case, there is a possibility of getting a completely new variety of a female flower.

For vegetative propagation, it is important to carry out the planned work in the spring, when the plant is just starting to grow after the winter rest. However, in case of illness or for another reason, you can gently transplant the plant even during flowering.

Soil requirements or how to prepare the soil for spathiphyllum. The flower loves a soil with a slight acidity, composed of equal parts:

• garden or turf land;
• leaf humus;
• peat;
• sand.

In addition, to make it similar to the natural composition, a total of 1 part is added from fine coniferous bark, charcoal, ground into a fine fraction and brick or ceramic chips. After disinfection by known methods, the soil is moistened with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Regardless of whether to sow seeds or root cuttings, spathiphyllum propagation work is carried out at an indoor temperature of at least 21 degrees.

After planting or sowing the seeds, do everything possible to root. For this, a mini-greenhouse is created, the leaves and the soil surface are moistened, and conditions are created for the rapid restoration of the roots.

The choice of dishes is important for the vegetative propagation of spathiphyllum. The containers should not be spacious, or several divisions should be planted in them at once. Until the container is filled with roots, the plant will not bloom.

It is important when planting to leave enough space on top for watering, at the bottom to have a good drainage layer of pebbles or expanded clay, and not to deepen the root collar of the plant.

How to plant spathiphyllum, which is cramped in capacity

To do this, you need to water the plant so that it easily slides out of the old pot. Since the task is to get the maximum number of divisions, then the bush should be soaked in warm water in a large basin, so that the roots are freed from the ground. Place the plant on the table. In this case, the parts into which you need to cut the bush when dividing will be clearly visible.

Free each part from old brown dead roots. Leave the young light. Sprinkle the cuts with crushed coal and prepare containers. Pour 2 cm of soil over the drainage, and arrange the roots of the cut, slightly straightening them. Keeping the plant in weight, gently add a little prepared soil for spathiphyllum. Shake the glass lightly and compact the soil with your fingers. Having covered the roots, water the soil for compaction, after the earth has settled, add it to the neck and shake the plant, whether it sits tightly.

The first week you need to moisten the leaves from the spray bottle, keep the plant under a hood with low ventilation. If a clod of earth dries up, moisten it a little so as not to provoke decay of diseased roots. A sign that the plant has taken root will be the appearance of a young leaf. After that, gradually release the plant from the shelter, start feeding after 3 months in a half dose.

Reproduction by divisions without roots and pieces of rhizome

In this case, the cut should be germinated in water and then planted, as described above. Rhizomes are laid out on wet sand or peat. At the same time, until the roots germinate, the wet litter should be constant. Cover with foil on top, but ventilate. As a result, the fragment will release roots, and then it can be planted in the ground.

How does spathiphyllum propagate by seeds?

The plant is cross-pollinated, has male and female peduncles. They differ in terms of flowering and flower height. The male one blooms 2-3 days earlier, the pollen disappears until the female flower ripens. Therefore, the seeds are obtained in greenhouses, where there are many flowers and they bloom at different times. The pollinated female flower turns green over time, becomes puffy from bumps that turn into peas. Seeds ripen up to six months. Their vitality is low, and it is necessary to sow from it immediately after harvesting.

When purchasing seeds, you should make sure they are fresh. If the mother plant was a hybrid, then splitting of properties would be inevitable. Growing seedlings is carried out in a closed bowl, at times opening it for airing. Seedlings appear unevenly, several seedlings will appear from one pea. After germination, the plant must be accustomed to the air gradually, opening the transparent film for a while.

Such flowers develop much more slowly, but subsequently they are more resistant to the dry air of the apartment in winter. You can sow a large container to decorate the office space and the young flowers will create an original composition, blooming at the same time.

Another way would be to grow the seedlings up to 5-6 cm and plant them in separate cups, from which you can also make any composition, but later it is easier to transplant them.

It is not for nothing that Spathiphyllum is in high demand and well-deserved respect, especially from women. After all, this beautiful and delicate flower brings family harmony into our life. Even if you don't believe in omens, lush greenery combined with white flowers evokes a sense of delight. In addition, this plant is unpretentious, and, despite its tropical origin, it gets along well in our apartments. But in order not to harm the plant with inept actions, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of care.

History and description of the plant

Charming and delicate, this is how I want to describe this, at first glance, modest flower. Spathiphyllum is one of the most purchased plants. It doesn't matter if it's a calendar holiday or weekdays, the plant doesn't stay in the flower shop.

A smart spathiphyllum never lingers in a flower shop

The plant was first described in the 19th century. But wide use received as a houseplant in the 60s of the last century.

In nature, spathiphyllum prefers to settle in humid and warm places. Wild specimens are found in swampy areas, along the banks of rivers and streams. The area of \u200b\u200bdistribution is considered to be territories from Central to South America and the islands of the Old World - New Guinea, Sulawesi, Philippines, Palau, Moluccas and Solomon Islands.

Spathiphyllum prefers humid and warm places for settling

Spathiphyllum is a very attractive perennial evergreen... In nature, as a rule, it is represented by terrestrial species, but epiphytes are also found. The plant has a short rhizome, but there is no stem - its long petioles begin to grow vertically directly from the ground level and are crowned with glossy leaves of a rich green color. The leaf blade is solid, oval or lanceolate, with a pointed tip. The surface is decorated with a clear relief of veins - a well-distinguishable central one, and lateral ones running parallel to it.

The plant, depending on the species, has different heights... There are quite miniature specimens that grow a little over 20 cm. And there are giants at all - their height exceeds a meter bar.

For landscaping the interior, you can purchase small or large spathiphyllums, species diversity this allows

Numerous pedicels grow as long as the petiole, or slightly taller. The inflorescences consist of an ear of yellow or milky and a white bedspread growing at the base of the ear. The bedspread resembles an elongated ellipse, it grows longer than the cob. Closer to the end of the flowering process white bedspread begins to change its color and turns green.

The name of a plant belonging to the Aroid family is literally translated as "cover" and "leaf", which is actually confirmed appearance flower.

Why is the plant called "female happiness"?

Spathiphyllum has several names - white sail, female flower or peace lily. But it is “female happiness” that is firmly entrenched in everyday life. It is believed that this delicate flower is endowed with a large magical power... For the attention to itself, the flower will thank the hostess. He brings her joy, happiness and peace of mind, will increase self-esteem and strengthen health, she finds harmony not only with herself, but also with the world around her.

Spathiphyllum is called "female happiness", because the plant thanks its owner for taking care of these values

Several signs associated with spathiphyllum

• if you give this plant to a lonely woman, then sincere love will not keep you waiting long;
• if a woman is childless, spathiphyllum will help to find the happiness of motherhood;
• for a married couple, the plant will give harmony in relationships;
• if you give a flower to a stranger, happiness will leave your home.

In order to double the positive effect of spathiphyllum, you need to pair it with another happiness - masculine, that is, anthurium. Growing and abundantly flowering plants are an indicator of ideal and harmonious relationships in the family.

In order for the positive effect of spathiphyllum to acquire double strength, anthurium must be purchased in a pair with it

Spathiphyllum or Anthurium?

Both of these plants represent one family - the Aroids. But, nevertheless, they have differences in appearance.

What are the differences between spathiphyllum and anthurium - table

Spathiphyllum species used in home cultivation

The genus spathiphyllum includes about 50 species. But in indoor floriculture, not all species are represented, but only those that are most adapted to home conditions. In addition, there are many hybrid forms obtained through the efforts of breeders.

1. Bearing the name of its discoverer, this species is considered the most unpretentious, and therefore very popular. The size of the bush will fit perfectly even in small rooms - plant height is only 20 - 30 cm. The color range of oblong lanceolate leaves ranges from emerald green at a young age to dark green in adult plants. The ear is small, white... It is surrounded by a snow-white blanket, which can turn green over time. Differs in abundant flowering, which lasts from spring to autumn.
2. Spathiphyllum is spoon-shaped. The plant is tall - up to 1 m in height. Leaves are glossy, dark green, slightly wavy at the edges. The petiole is long - up to 70 cm. The inflorescence is in the form of a white cob, surrounded by a long, elongated-oval veil.
3. Spathiphyllum is abundantly flowering. It is not inferior in popularity to Wallis due to its long flowering period. The leaves are elongated-oval, at first light green, and then acquiring more saturated color... Small flowers, white. Plant height reaches 50 cm. Based on the species, several hybrids have been bred, one of which is the popular Mauna Loa.
4. The largest representative of the genus. With proper care, it grows into a 1.5 meter giant. The leaves are large - up to 90 cm long, 30 - 40 cm wide, dark green. The surface has a pronounced ribbing. The inflorescences are large - almost 50 cm.
5. Glossy, dense, dark green leaves form a plant with a height of 50 cm. A feature of this species is the vertical growth of petioles, which practically do not deviate to the side, like in other species.

Photogallery of spathiphyllum species

Wallis spathiphyllum is the most popular among other species Spathiphyllum Spoon-shaped stands out due to its large size Spathiphyllum Abundantly flowering is the parent form of many hybrids.
Spathiphyllum Sensation is a real giant among congeners In Alan's spathiphyllum, the petioles grow almost vertically

Variegated representatives of the genus

Variegated representatives of the genus Spathiphyllum are good because it is impossible to find plants with the same color of leaves.

Its bright green foliage, on which white strokes are clearly visible, as if left by an artist's brush, evokes enthusiastic exclamations. In height unpretentious plant grows up to 50 cm.

Spathiphyllum Picasso, due to its unusual color, is a unique species

High ornamental plant, 50 - 60 cm high. Dense green leaves are covered with numerous white strokes. The inflorescence consists of a white-yellow or slightly greenish cob, wrapped in a white blanket. By the way, the plant is quite rare in flower shops, although it is difficult to call it difficult to care for.

Spathiphyllum Domino will delight any esthete

Features of growing and caring for a flower at home

It's no secret that all flowers love proper care... Spathiphyllum is no exception in this regard. And although the plant can be safely ranked as simple in terms of content, you need to know some nuances.

In winter, with a lack of sunlight, you can spread a reflective substrate under the pot with spathiphyllum

Under no circumstances can thermophilic spathiphyllum be kept in a draft, so when ventilating, set the plant aside. And here fresh air loves very much in the summer. A slightly shaded and wind-proof place on the balcony or in the garden will delight your flower.

Features of watering and humidification

The soil in a pot with spathiphyllum should always be in a state of light moisture. In spring and summer, watering should be abundant. In winter, the frequency of humidification is reduced, depending on the temperature in the room.

The main rules for watering

• never overmoisten the soil;
• the liquid accumulated in the pan must be drained, since stagnant water in the roots will lead to their disease;
• do not allow the earthen coma to dry out;
• water only with well-settled water, which should have room temperature;
• flowering is the period when you should not skimp on water;
• we carry out the next watering, focusing on the state of the upper soil layer - it should dry out a few centimeters inward.

In the summer, when increasing temperature regime the plant needs daily spraying. It responds well to the shower, with the help of which the leaves get rid of dust. But the flowers are best hidden from water drops while bathing. In winter, when kept in a cool room, the plant is not sprayed. If the spathiphyllum is placed near the included heating appliances, then spraying is necessary. The water for spraying should be well settled and not lower than room temperature.

Maintaining the moisture content of the flower at least 50% - important condition for normal development

Top dressing

The growing season of spathiphyllum lasts from March to September. It is at this moment that the flower needs nutrients... As a rule, universal fertilizers are used for feeding flowering plantswith a balanced composition. But the concentrated solution should be diluted a little more than necessary, otherwise it will be tender. root system may get burned.

The plant reacts very well to organic matter and natural additives. Alternating mineral and organic dressings gives amazing results.

Any kind of liquid fertilizer is applied only to pre-moistened soil.

Fertilization - table

If spathiphyllum blooms in the autumn-winter period, it must be supported, but feeding is applied less often than during the active growing season

The soil

Choosing the right land for your plant is the main task of the grower. As a representative of the Aroid family, spathiphyllum prefers loose soils that allow moisture to pass well and do not interfere with gas exchange in the roots. The easiest way is to purchase a ready-made substrate for aroids and add pieces of charcoal to it. But it is also easy to prepare the soil mixture yourself, it is enough to purchase the following components:

• leafy ground;
• sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• river sand.

Spathiphyllum and simple leaf humus tolerate well, but to make it more friable, brick chips and charcoal should be added to its composition.

Important little things

1. The soil for spathiphyllum should be slightly acidic - pH 5 - 6.
2. Be sure to use charcoal in soil mixtures. It is an excellent antiseptic that will protect the roots from decay in case of accidental waterlogging of the soil.
3. The self-made substrate must be disinfected. To do this, use a hot dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Charcoal - necessary component when drawing up a soil mixture for spathiphyllum, and activated carbon is needed to powder small wounds during transplantation

Choosing a suitable pot

If anyone does not know, then spathiphyllum is very fond of tight spaces. If you transplant the plant into a large container, then you can not wait for the early flowering. Only when the roots absorb the entire volume of the substrate will flowers appear. Therefore, choose pots that are slightly larger than the previous one, so that the root system is comfortable.

The material from which the pot is made does not matter. But for large species (for example, Sensation), it is better to choose a more stable container - a ceramic pot or a small tub.

The presence of drainage holes for draining excess fluid is the main requirement for any container. Be sure to drain the water that has flowed into the pan after watering.

Drainage holes at the bottom of the pot are a prerequisite

Transfer

Since the pot for spathiphyllum needs a small one, the transplant will have to be carried out often. Young plants are transplanted annually, and specimens that have reached 5 years of age are transplanted as needed. The signal is the roots that have sprouted through drain holes and growth retardation.

The most best time for the procedure - spring.

It is not so easy to transplant large plants growing in tubs or large ceramic containers, so in order not to starve the flower, the top layer of depleted soil is replaced with a new, more fertile one. Replacement must be done carefully so as not to damage the roots.

Spathiphyllum loves tight containers, but an overgrown flower needs to be transplanted

Do I need to replant after purchase?

After purchase, the plant must be transplanted. The main reason for this is the wrong substrate. The shipping soil is very moisture-consuming, dries out for a long time and causes rotting of the root system. In addition, the roots of the purchased plant often have nowhere to develop further, since they have braided the entire peat ball. But the transplant should be carried out no earlier than in a week and a half. During this time, the plant must adapt to new conditions so as not to experience double stress.

Transplant method

1. Choose a pot that is the right size and has drainage holes.
2. Be sure to lay a layer of expanded clay on the bottom, at least 3 cm high.
3. Pour some soil on top.
4. If you are replanting a recently purchased plant, then carefully remove it from the pot, try to remove pieces of shipping soil, but only those that come off easily. You can also dip the roots in a bowl of water and rinse them lightly. If the spathiphyllum has already been transplanted before, and you are replacing a pot that has become cramped, then the transplant is carried out by the transshipment method in order to cause as little damage as possible to the roots.
5. Place the flower in the center of the new container and start adding the prepared soil from the sides.
6. Landing should be at the same level.
7. After the soil fills the pot, tap it lightly on the edge of the table so that the soil mixture can be distributed as evenly as possible in the roots.
8. Water the plant. Wait for excess liquid to pour into the pan and remove it.
9. Place the plant in a suitable location.

How to transplant purchased spathiphyllum - video

Reproduction

Spathiphyllum can be propagated in 3 ways - by dividing a bush or rhizome, by cuttings and seeds.

Dividing a bush or rhizome

This is the easiest way to get some new plants. They spend it during the transplant.

1. Remove the plant from the pot.
2. Shake off excess soil.
3. Unbraid long roots so they don't break off.
4. Using a sharp knife or scissors, divide the rhizome so that there are growing points on them, consisting of at least 3 young leaves and roots.
5. Sprinkle the cut points with crushed activated carbon.
6. Plant the delenki in small pots with a suitable soil mixture.
7. The soil should be well moistened, since in the first days it is not advisable to water young plants until the wounds have healed. But you can spray the leaves.

To get new spathiphyllums, you can divide the plant in the spring during transplantation

Cuttings

This method can also be called simple, but there are some nuances that will help the successful rooting of the cuttings. Young rosettes that appear at the base of an adult plant in spring can be carefully separated. The main task for the grower is to grow the root system so that the further planting of a young plant is crowned with success.

Cuttings are rooted in wet sand. It is desirable in a mini-plaque to create favorable conditions - warmth and a sufficient level of humidity. You can also grow roots in plain water with the addition of activated carbon. After the root system is formed and new leaves begin to appear, the spathiphyllum is planted in a pot.

What mistakes can occur when rooting a cutting - video

Seed propagation

The occupation is time consuming and does not always end with success. But nevertheless, those who are interested in the process itself and who are not afraid of difficulties can try.

The most a big problem - This is the rapid loss of the ability to sprout seeds. Therefore, you will either have to pollinate the existing spathiphyllum yourself or seek help from the same enthusiasts like you.

What care problems can arise and how to fix them

Spathiphyllum is not capricious, but sometimes an oversight or ignorance of the rules of care can lead to a sad result. To prevent this from happening, you need to learn to understand the plant. After all, by its appearance, it tells what went wrong.

Yellowed leaves can signal several bugs:

• low air humidity;
• insufficient watering, in which the earthen lump is often in a dry state;
• watering with hard, insufficiently settled water;
• after a long and abundant flowering spathiphyllum can be nutrient deficient.

Carefully inspect the plant, analyze the condition of the soil and conditions of detention:

• if the room is too hot, then you need to increase the humidity around the plant and spray the leaves daily;
• do not fill dry earth immediately big amount water, and increase the rate gradually, bringing it to the desired watering frequency;
• water only with previously settled water;
• during the flowering period, the plant needs feeding, do not forget about it.

The yellow leaves of spathiphyllum can be the result of several reasons, which one, you will understand by analyzing the situation

The tips of the leaves begin to turn black. The most likely cause is over-watering at low indoor temperatures. Try to bring the temperature and frequency of watering to the prescribed norms, and spathiphyllum will quickly grow new healthy foliage.

The blackening edges of the leaves of spathiphyllum indicate low temperature and waterlogging.

The flowers start to turn green. This is not a problem at all. The fact is that in the final stage of flowering, the white veil begins to turn green and fade. This process is quite natural, and you only need to cut the peduncle at the base. And some types of spathiphyllum have a light green bedspread.

The leaves turn brown and dry. This is a signal about low air humidity. Regular spraying of the leaves will return the freshness of green foliage to the spathiphyllum.

At low humidity, the tips of the leaves begin to dry

Spathiphyllum does not bloom. The reason may be too large volume pot, because until the plant has mastered the entire space, flowering will not come. Another reason may be lack of light. Move the plant to the most illuminated place (but not to the direct rays of the sun) and soon the spathiphyllum will be covered with white inflorescences.

The flower has slowed down its growth, the leaves become chlorotic. This is due to a lack of manganese and iron. If these microelements are present in the nutrient solution, it means that the plant cannot fully assimilate them due to poor soil aeration or cold. Move the flower to a warm room and replace the substrate if necessary.

With an unbalanced diet, spathiphyllum can slow growth

Sometimes water droplets may appear on the leaves. Don't worry. So the plant naturally gets rid of excess fluid in the tissues when high humidity environment... Take this note if you are a fan of frequent spraying.

Diseases and pests characteristic of spathiphyllum

If errors that have arisen in the process of improper care are not eliminated in time, then pests indoor plants happy to settle on a flower. And diseases are frequent companions of weakened plants.

Fighting and preventing diseases and pests - table

Spathiphyllum is a versatile flower. It looks great as a solo plant, harmonious in combination with other representatives of the flora. With proper care, it will delight you long flowering... But to really enjoy the beautiful appearance of spathiphyllum and feel it on yourself beneficial influence, you need to make friends with a flower.

And the reproduction of this flower is not difficult, although, like any living organism, it needs care. But if you are not too lazy and give it a little attention, it will thank you with its undemandingness and long beautiful flowering.

Plant features

Like other aroids, spathiphyllum is not fatal, but still poisonous. Its leaves contain calcium oxalate, so for some allergy sufferers, touching them can cause dermatitis. You shouldn't even let the cat, if you have one in your house, chew on the plant. The death of the animal is unlikely, but sores on the oral mucous membranes, diarrhea and vomiting are unlikely to please you. On the other hand, spathiphyllum does not emit poisonous phytoncides into the air, so it does not threaten to inhale the poison. In this case, it is worth considering his beneficial features... The plant perfectly cleans the air space in the house from harmful components. True, for the effectiveness of this process in a room of twenty square meters six to seven adult plants should live. However, this is not a problem - the reproduction of spathiphyllum is not difficult, even a novice florist can handle it.

Choosing a windowsill

This plant is shade tolerant. Moreover, it just prefers dim, diffused lighting. In bright, direct light, the leaves of the spathiphyllum fade and begin to dry. So that perfect choice will become the northern, usually empty window. True, if there is very little light (for example, just in this place a large branched tree grows), then the foliage becomes dense green, becomes smaller and stretches. Flowering is in question. And the reproduction of spathiphyllum will not be successful - new copies simply will not take root. But this plant survives well when even fluorescent lamps are not required - enough ordinary, apartment ones. This is used by phytodesigners when decorating offices and shops. In the summer, it would be nice to take the pots outside - on the balcony or in the garden. But again, it is necessary to choose a shaded place so that the plants do not get burned and do not "feel sad" from the excess of sunlight.

Temperature regime

Spathiphyllum does not need to create special thermal conditions. Conventional room temperatures fit him well. True, if the thermometer shows less than +18, the growth of the flower stops, and it will not bloom. Higher temperatures are also required during the reproduction of spathiphyllum: planted plants need 22-23 degrees for survival. Therefore, they are often covered with circumcised plastic bottles with holes, creating a mini greenhouse.

What you need to carefully protect spathiphyllum is from drafts. Even with a fan running nearby, the flower can get sick and die. When using the air conditioner, you should not turn on the mode below 20 degrees, and the pots with plants should be moved away from it.

How often to water

Spathiphyllum is a moisture-loving plant. The soil in his "house" should always be wet. There is no need to wait for the complete drying of the earthen coma. However, when overflowing, the likelihood of root rot is high. Therefore, if an hour after irrigation there is still water in the pan, it must be drained. A sign of excess moisture is the appearance on the leaves dark spots... Having noticed them, it is necessary to revise the irrigation schedule. The lack of water is manifested by a sharp drooping of all leaves. Do not be afraid: literally a couple of hours after receiving moisture, they will straighten again.

You need to be especially careful when watering the planted spathiphyllum - reproduction and transplants can injure the plant. Therefore, the earth is well shed before these procedures, and watering resumes only after three to four days.

Humidity is important

Loves spathiphyllum and spraying - like all plants with a large leaf plate. In the heat, such manipulations must be done twice a day - in the morning, before the onset of the sun, and in the evening, when it subsides. If this is not possible (for example, in an office), the pot is placed in a pallet with wet moss, pebbles or expanded clay. However, even these measures do not eliminate the need to spray the flower in the summer at least every other day.

Transplants

Spathiphyllum needs to move to a new place of residence throughout its life. Young plants need to be replanted annually, adults who are more than five years old - only when the roots have filled the entire pot. You can determine the moment by the roots that have pushed through the drainage holes. New pot a low one is bought and only slightly larger than the previous one: in such conditions, the spathiphyllum takes root faster and blooms more readily. Drainage is a must, and it is better to choose larger ones. If possible, you need to add sphagnum to the soil - the soil will not dry out too abruptly. The ideal substrate would be turf, sand, peat and leafy soil. The ratio is 1: 1: 2: 2. After transplanting, in the evening, the plant is sprayed with epin (two drops per glass warm water). So it will take root faster and more painlessly. For the same purpose, watering is stopped, but spraying is required twice a day until watering resumes.

Leaf planting

Sooner or later, you will want to increase your plantation of these beautiful plants. First of all, we will warn against mistakes of those who have not grown spathiphyllum before. Leaf reproduction is impossible for him. Unlike, for example, begonias, a spathiphyllum leaf dipped in water will simply rot without giving roots. The same will happen if it is immediately thrust into the ground, as is done with many succulents. Florists practice reproduction of spathiphyllum by cuttings or by dividing the rhizome. The use of seeds is, of course, possible, but it is complicated by many factors, which will be discussed below.

Cuttings

Vegetative methods are applicable to almost any plant - some more, others less. Spathiphyllum is no exception. Reproduction by dividing the bush is most popular due to the relative simplicity of the process. At the base of an adult plant, "babies" are formed - a small leaf rosette with peaked roots. In the spring, when it is time to transplant, they are carefully separated from the mother plant. The main thing in this process is to untangle the roots, trying not to break them off. The cuttings are rooted in wet sand or perlite. Reproduction of spathiphyllum will occur without trouble if each new bush is covered with a transparent cap, preferably with holes. If they are absent and it is impossible to do them, you will have to air the plantings two or three times a day. When the root system grows and gets stronger, the planted plants move to the substrate prepared in the already described way.

Rhizome division

You can also plant spathiphyllum in another way. Reproduction by root divisions, on the one hand, gives almost one hundred percent survival rate. On the other hand, you need to be able to do this in order not to ruin mother plant... So they only resort to it experienced florists... Such an operation is also performed in the spring, during transplant manipulations, so as not to disturb the plant once again. The rhizome is divided with a sharp knife, the cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Not activated in any way! Otherwise, the steps are the same as for grafting.

Seed Troubles

There is another way, very unreliable, to get a new spathiphyllum. Reproduction at home using seed is theoretically possible, but unlikely to be successful. Firstly, to obtain them, artificial pollination will be required, which does not always give the planned results. Secondly, seed germination of this flower is very low. Moreover, the seeds are not stable: even after a day, half of them are guaranteed not to sprout. Thirdly, after sowing in sandy-peat soil, the container is covered with glass, and your task is to simultaneously maintain its moisture content and prevent seed suffocate. Therefore, in general, the method remains purely theoretical - gardeners propagate spathiphyllum vegetatively.

Bloom

The main thing that attracts lovers of indoor plants in spathiphyllum is long, up to two months, flowering. An additional bait is the fact that most varieties produce cobs rather readily. However, it happens that, despite the care and proper care, the plant is capricious. There are several ways to nudge him in the right direction.

1. Repositioning the pot. Most often, the refusal to bloom is caused by unfavorable light or thermal conditions. You can try moving the plant to a "brighter" location. At first, in order for it to get used to it, you need to either shade it or move it to a less illuminated place. After adaptation, it will be possible to give the spathiphyllum more light. Very often, almost immediately, he throws out the buds.
2. Often stimulates flowering high humidity... Either make more frequent sprays, turn on a humidifier, or simply place a container of water next to it.
3. If such simple actions did not give a result, transfer the spathiphyllum (temporarily!) To water starvation. First, water it less often for a couple of weeks, and then leave it completely without water for a week. To avoid damaging the flower, spray it more often. After maintaining the specified time, move the pot closer to the light, return to normal irrigation regime and feed the spathiphyllum with fertilizers for flowering plants. It will bloom within a month.

Well, for the flowering to be longer, the faded "ears" should be cut off in time. Then they will not hinder the development of new ones.

Try bringing spathiphyllum to your window garden. Reproduction (see the photo in the article), easy and almost always successful, will allow you to quickly decorate your home with this a beautiful plant with glossy leaves and delicate white flowers.

For a family such as spathiphyllum, reproduction can be carried out in several ways. Spathiphyllum root is a large creeping underground organ of a plant. He is directly involved in the divorce. At the time of transplantation, which is carried out in the spring, the rhizome is divided into several small parts, while observing optimal temperature 20 - 21 ° C.
For lovers of neat compact bushes and avoiding extensive branching, which is activated by multiple points of growth per tuber, the plant should be divided into fragments. Each such site will be a part of the rhizome, with a growth point and 2-3 leaves located on it. Such fragments are placed in pots with ready-made substrate, the size of which does not exceed 12-15 cm.

Spathiphyllum reproduction: root division

When dividing a tuber, it is necessary to monitor the presence of a growth point and at least two leaves in each separated area. At the same time, pots are selected in small sizes with low walls. A room with a warm climate and wet sand - the necessary conditions for good rooting of the pet. Planting in pots is carried out only after several roots appear on the cuttings of the plant.
The acidity of the soil for breeding this species must be kept within the weakly acidic values \u200b\u200b( pH - from 5 to 6.5).

The composition of the soil should include sod, peat, leafy soil and sand in proportions of 0.5: 1: 1: 0.5.

In addition, it is useful to mix the soil mixture with brick chips in combination with charcoal. Availability good drainage very important for the comfortable growth of the plant.

Spathiphyllum seed reproduction

Reproduction by fragments of rhizomes is a very simple way. It is much more difficult to try to grow a new shoot from a seed. To obtain seeds, the mother plant is artificially pollinated, and green berries are formed. It is a fruit with numerous seeds. Finished seeds should not be stored for a long time, because germination rates decline rapidly. They must be immediately placed in sandy-peat soil, and a film or other covering material will help maintain the required temperature. Close attention must be paid to soil moisture.