Why gloxinia does not bloom at home. Why does gloxinia stretch out its stem or how to form a compact bush

And gloxinia is no exception to this rule. Lush rosette of large, bright and attractive flowers, characteristic of synningia, may well compete with a real bouquet.

bud ripening

The laying of buds occurs only as a result of proper cultivation. buds on a plant appear immediately after the number of pairs of leaves on it reaches three or four. The number of buds themselves depends on the conditions in which synningia was kept (temperature, lighting and humidity), as well as on the age and weight of the tuber.

Flowering period and its features

The duration is about 5 months and lasts, as a rule, from April to August (taking into account repeated flowering). This factor is also influenced by the variety of this houseplant.

Flowers

Sinningia flowers look like bells. Thanks to this, the plant received its popular name - gloxinia(if translated from German - “bell”).

range of colors, inherent in gloxinia flowers, it is distinguished by its amazing diversity. The main color is white, pink, red and purple. Depending on the variety, there are terry and non-terry, multicolored, with frilled edges, varieties of flowers.

The presence of in the flowers of synningia aroma. There are varieties that do not have any smell at all, and there are those that simply smell fragrant. The smell of flowers in such varieties of gloxinia is pronounced and delicate, it may slightly resemble the aroma of jasmine flowers.

Care during budding

During the development of buds and flowering, synningia needs the right:

the plant should receive enough light at this time.
Gloxinia should not be placed in direct sunlight (to avoid burns)
do not allow the soil in the pot to dry out. You need to water regularly, and even experienced flower growers recommend placing the plant on a tray with soft and warm water (for about 10 minutes).
Do not allow moisture to get on the flowers and leaves (this can cause them to rot)
it is advisable to feed 1 time in 7 days using fertilizers for flowering plants.

Care after flowering

flowering time can be significantly extended with proper care. Many varieties and types of synningia have a tendency to re-bloom, especially if the first was early. Usually it is not so lush and plentiful, and the flowers are much smaller.

After flowering, gloxinia should be carefully examined for the presence of a growth point on the stem. If there is one, in a month the plant will give new flowers.

pruning

Sometimes to stimulate re-blooming may pruning required synningia. In this case, the ground part is cut off (leaves and stem; 2-4 lower leaves can not be removed) and a shoot about 2 cm long is left. Soon after this, the second growth of gloxinia occurs: side shoots appear.

Not at all necessary leave all side shoots, one or two of the strongest will be enough - the rest are cut off so as not to weaken the plant. A month later, new buds begin to develop on them.

During the period of budding, synningia must be fed with fertilizer.

Why does not bloom and how to deal with it?

Often, flower growers notice that their pet is in no hurry to please them with rapid flowering. The reason for this phenomenon is most often illiterate care of the plant. Incorrect content can be judged if:

the plant is overfed with nitrogen-based fertilizers. Nitrogen acts as a stimulant for the rapid growth of greenery and at the same time an obstacle to flowering. The best top dressing for gloxinia is phosphorus-potassium fertilizer;
lacks lighting. Sinningia is a light-loving plant, and lighting is simply necessary for it to lay new buds and beautifully shaped flowers.
With a lack of natural light, gloxinia can be arranged for additional artificial lighting.
the plant does not fit the size of the pot where it grows. The ideal pot for synningia is low, wide and small, with a diameter of about 9-15 cm. In a large and deep one, it will spend energy on growing a tuber, to the detriment of flowering (it is told about the dormant period of gloxinia and saving the tuber until spring).
there is no transplant. Transplantation should be carried out annually;
the soil in which synningia grows is poor. Gloxinia needs fertile soil containing humus, coniferous and leafy soil, sand, perlite (or hydrogel) and peat. Planting mix for a plant can be made independently, or you can buy a ready-made one.
Before planting the plant, the soil must be calcined for about half an hour in the oven - to destroy pathogens.

Bloom- a wonderful sight that can give a sea of \u200b\u200baesthetic pleasure. In order for it to be magnificent, plentiful and long, it is required to provide this unpretentious beauty with competent care.

Photo

Below you can see a photo:

Growing Gloxinia: 18 Problems and Solutions Gloxinia is a very popular indoor plant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, you need to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia at the first sign of their appearance. 1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering. The storage place for gloxinia tubers should be cool and dark. If the gloxinia tuber is adult and healthy, then it is only a little cast, as shoots begin to grow in it. However, in practice it does not always work out the way it should be. The very first and simple first aid when waking gloxinia from hibernation is to wrap the gloxinia pot in a plastic bag to create high humidity for shoots to appear. It is quite possible that the wintering was too dry and the tuber dried out. In order not to encounter such a problem, pots with gloxinia tubers in winter need to be lightly watered sometimes. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring some soil or wet moss into it. Close the bags or tie tightly. The bag will retain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to observe gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot. If gloxinia did not wake up after wintering, then too young gloxinia was sent for wintering, which did not have time to form a tuber. If a gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold of very poor quality. A lot of flower growers complain about this problem. Outwardly, the tubers look quite safe, but in reality it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests, or simply overfed with various growth stimulants and fertilizers. The strength of such tubers is only enough to bloom for one season. Dig up the tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it is gone. Break or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If so, then dry the sections, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, you can treat with ordinary brilliant green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, to stimulate it to form shoots. If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is only from one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber as described above and plant it in new soil. If you want the purchased tubers to be able to endure wintering without problems, then immediately after acquiring gloxinia tubers at home, process all planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment is aimed at keeping gloxinia tubers from rot. The next step is the treatment of gloxinia tubers with Actellik or Fitoverm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants. If you purchased gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor. Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you really value this particular variety of gloxinia, try to root the cutting or leaf in advance. 2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber If gloxinia is grown from seeds, and the seeds are planted late, then gloxinia may not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia blooms only at six to seven months of age, when it grows six to seven pairs of leaves. In this case, young gloxinia should not be sent for wintering, because you can completely lose gloxinia. In winter, try to maintain sufficient humidity and light so that the gloxinia does not stretch out. To understand whether gloxinia will overwinter or not, count the leaves: if there are only four or five pairs, then such a small gloxinia cannot be sent for wintering. Gloxinia will pick up buds when it has grown at least six pairs of leaves. Also, the tuber does not have time to form when growing gloxinia from a leaf or cutting, especially if the cutting is too long and deeply buried. Do not abuse watering. Due to waterlogging, gloxinia may also not have time to form a tuber. Gloxinia has a too small tuber, it may not endure wintering 3. Gloxinia shoots are very long Gloxinia shoots are very long after wintering, when the room is too warm and there is insufficient lighting. Add lighting, reduce the temperature in the room will help periodic spraying of air, wet cleaning. Strong stretching of the shoots can also be in low light, plus overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Add light, do not feed with nitrogen fertilizers. Gloxinia can stretch due to varietal characteristics, some varieties of gloxinia are prone to stretching shoots. It is advisable to cut the elongated shoot. The tuber will give a new shoot. A pruned shoot can be rooted, and it will also have time to bloom. If the elongated shoot is left, then it will most likely fall and take root. It will also receive nutrition from its newly formed roots, and in addition, pull nutrition from the tuber. A new shoot may grow on the tuber, but it will be weak, will not bloom, and the tuber will become weakened and may not overwinter. 4. Gloxinia grows very poorly, her flowers curl. If the gloxinia is too slow growing, or the flowers of the gloxinia curl, it may be that the wintering of the plant was too cold, or the temperature in the room where the gloxinia grows is too low, or drafts. Perhaps the land is very poor, there is not enough food. Carry out pest control. They can also inhibit the growth of gloxinia. 5. Gloxinia leaves turned yellow Gloxinia leaves turn yellow with excessive watering. If the plant is flooded, then it is immediately noticeable by the leaves. It may happen that the tuber began to rot. Urgently remove the gloxinia tuber, inspect for rot, treat with phytosporin or other drugs, replace the ground. Gloxinia leaves may turn yellow from a lack of nitrogen. In general, fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers is recommended only at the beginning of the growing season, when the stem begins to grow. Subsequently, top dressing is best done with fertilizers in which the content of phosphorus and potassium far exceeds the nitrogen content. Remember that overfeeding with nitrogen can lead to gloxinia tuber rot. Gloxinia leaf chlorosis. The cause of chlorosis can be too hard water. Water for watering gloxinia should be used separated, warm. Soften it with a drop of vinegar or lemon juice. The cause of chlorosis can be reduced soil acidity or increased ash content. Change the soil. 6. Gloxinia leaves discolored If gloxinia leaves begin to discolor, then magnesium starvation is evident. In this case, liquid top dressing will help, in which all trace elements have already been added. 7. Spots appeared on gloxinia leaves Spots on gloxinia leaves may appear from too bright lighting. Shade the gloxinia, otherwise there will be a sunburn. Spots on gloxinia leaves can appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold. Gloxinia leaf spot can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Insecticide treatments are needed. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ring spot virus. 8. Gloxinia leaves curl Curling of gloxinia leaves is possible if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much humidity, excessive waterlogging, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust the watering of gloxinia. Treat gloxinia with actellik or fitoverm from spider mites. Twisting gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers. 9. Gloxinia leaves turned red Redness of gloxinia leaves begins with a lack of phosphorus. Starvation with phosphorus leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or other fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammophoska fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this. 10. In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry In gloxinia, the lower leaves dry with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Possibly an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. 11. Gloxinia does not bloom Gloxinia does not bloom due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Insufficient lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity or insufficient watering can affect the delay in flowering. Incorrect or too short wintering can also affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. In order for gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months. In order for gloxinia to fully bloom, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia love the light! From the moment they wake up, immediately put pots with gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or organize additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be laid at all, and if they are, there may be few of them, or the flowers may not be fully formed, turn out to be a barren flower , or not the end of the reveal. The size of the pot also plays an important role. For growing gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, rather low and wide pot than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow a tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after active growth begins in gloxinia, it is necessary to carry out fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. You can make an earthen mixture for gloxinia yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leaf earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogens. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes. If it is not possible to make your own earthen mixture, then you will have to use the store, but fertilize more often. 12. Petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, buds rot In gloxinia, petioles of leaves rot, buds rot due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH, as well as an excess amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change soil, adjust watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen fertilizers, use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include both phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, carry out two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to keep the gloxinia tuber from rotting. 13. Gloxinia's buds turn black and die If gloxinia's buds turn black and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil is too poor and there is not enough food, strong overflow. Usually, flowering problems are solved by fertilizing with phosphate fertilizers and additional lighting. Treat with fungicides. If the problem is not corrected, then most likely there are problems with the tuber: it began to disappear. 14. At gloxinia, a barren flower is formed. First, buds are laid on gloxinia, as usual, sepals open, and inside instead of a bud there is a green pea, a barren flower. After some time, the pedicel, on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown. Perhaps the gloxinia tuber was stored at too cold a temperature. Cut off this pedicel, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how new buds open, perhaps everything will return to normal without additional intervention. Try a few more sprays of epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds. 15. Gloxinia's buds do not fully open Gloxinia's buds do not fully open, and then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on the gloxinia, and she does not have enough top dressing, she is simply not able to overpower the flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature. It is possible that she bloomed too early or late, when daylight hours are short and there is simply not enough light for her. Usually, this occurs during the off-season. Under-opening of buds can be the result of an attack by a spider mite or thrips. Apply insecticide treatments. 16. Gloxinia buds dry Gloxinia buds dry due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet over the window. Try feeding with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. 17. Gloxinia began to wither all the leaves. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither in the fall, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait for the gloxinia to completely wither, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for the winter. It can be in the same pot, it can be in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1. If the leaves of gloxinia began to wither during the growing season, then most likely there are problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Urgently dig, cut off the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil. 18. How to make a gloxinia bloom again If your gloxinia has faded and no longer forms flower stalks, and you want to make the gloxinia bloom again, cut it back to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, the gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. Re-flowering can be stimulated by fertilizing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

A small, stocky bush with velvety elongated leaves blooms with amazingly beautiful flowers. The coloring is monophonic or two-color, with a wide edging along the edge of the petal, or a contrasting openwork ornament. Flowers come in a wide variety of shades from white to almost black.. The shape of the flower of an indoor flower resembles a bell pointing upwards, with a bent edge of the petal. According to the structure of the rhizome, gloxinia belongs to tuberous plants.

Gloxinia, or synningia in another way - American by origin. In our country, it grows only at home, or in greenhouses. Belongs to the Gerseniev family.

flowering process

Most indoor flowers bloom in summer, there are varieties that bloom in autumn, and some are able to remain beautiful all year round. In order to understand whether there is a problem at all, let's figure out what time and how long gloxinia blooms.

When?

Under ideal conditions, gloxinia can bloom as early as March., however, most often buds are still forming at this time. Flowering continues through September-October.

How many?

Gloxinia blooms in 2 stages about 3 months each. That is, the first flowering takes place from March to June, the second - from July to October. Between flowering, the plant is pruned, and it again grows flower stalks and forms buds.

One of the breeding methods is the rooting of a leaf or its fragment (you can learn more about planting gloxinia from a leaf). For in order for a young plant to give flowers, it must first grow a tuber.

Therefore, if the leaf was rooted in the spring, then only by autumn it can bloom. There will not be many flowers, and besides, they will not last long. However, if the tuber is left in a pot for the winter, then until next year it will increase its mass, which will provide the plant with strength for full flowering.

How to make bloom at home?

Why does the plant not bloom, but produces buds, which then dry up and what to do? There are several reasons why this problem occurs. It is necessary to eliminate them and create the right conditions for the plant.

Consider the most effective ways to solve:

How to feed gloxinia for abundant flowering? Any complex, better in liquid form, mineral fertilizer, which is intended for flowering plants. Do it 3 times a month, starting from a two-week period after spring planting. Young seedlings begin to feed when new shoots with leaves appear. Feed until autumn. If there is no fertilizer at hand, water the flower with an ash solution.
Give more light! Gloxinia loves sunlight very much, it needs 12-14 hours of daylight hours to release flower stalks.
In the spring it is necessary to illuminate the plant. To do this, use phyto-lamps, or fluorescent lamps with suitable characteristics.
Plant it in a suitable pot! If gloxinia is in too spacious a container, then it will not bloom. A wide and low pot of small volume is needed (for more information on what size pot is needed for the healthy development of gloxinia, see). The soil in the pot should be slightly larger in volume than the tuber itself (and you can find out more about how to choose the best soil for gloxinia).
Be careful with nitrogen! If your gloxinia has thick leaves and dark green stems. There are a lot of leaves, then perhaps there is nitrogen overfeeding. Either there is too much humus in the soil, or the wrong fertilizers with a high percentage of nitrogen were chosen. Or both. You can fix it only by transplanting the flower into poor soil with a high content of peat (you can read more about transplanting gloxinia). Feed only the correct fertilizer and according to the instructions.
Are you warm girl? If the room where the gloxinia pot is cool is cool, then flowering will not occur. Requires maintenance in a temperature regime of 20 to 25 degrees. This should also include the presence of drafts and a cold window sill, from which the soil in the pot has a low temperature.
The radiator is the enemy of plants! During the heating season, plants can suffer from too low humidity, hot dry air rises from the radiators directly to the plants on the windowsill. Build a protective screen, or create humid air around the flower. You can put a pan with water, or spray water from a spray bottle into the air. Just don't hit the flower!
Rested or not? In winter, gloxinia should rest for 4 months. The tuber is dug up and stored in a dark, cool place, in a bag with slightly damp sand. If the rest did not last long, there were not those conditions, then the plant will not be able to fully bloom. In the case of young plants that have not yet grown a tuber, it is left in a pot. But they are also cleaned in a dark place with a temperature of 12-15 degrees. It is important not to allow the soil to dry out during this period. It is unlikely that it will be possible to force the plant to bloom in case of inadequate rest.

Care

We've talked about many things related to leaving, but there are still some important things left.

It is during flowering that gloxinia requires frequent and plentiful watering. Should be watered as soon as the surface of the soil dries out.. It is better to do this by the pallet method, because this way the gloxinia will take only the right amount. In addition, you can not get on the plant itself. Otherwise, it may rot.

Another plus in the piggy bank for irrigation through the pan is the uniform distribution of moisture. In the summer, when we water from above, moisture may not reach the very bottom, partially evaporating from the surface. Water should only be settled and soft, at room temperature or plus 3 degrees.

You can find out more about how to water and feed gloxinia at home.

Can the leaves be trimmed?

If a leaf is needed for propagation, it is quite possible to cut it off (for more details on the propagation of gloxinia by a leaf and caring for a plant, see). It is also not scary to cut off wilted and damaged leaves. However, you should not seriously thin out the bush; from such stress, gloxinia can drop flowers and stop flowering.

Leaves are pruned when the first wave of flowering is over.. Not all are removed, but most of them, as well as all flower stalks. After a while, stepchildren will appear, 2-3 of the strongest are left, the rest is cut out. Full pruning of leaves and stems is carried out in late autumn, before laying the tuber for storage.

You can find out more about the features of the difficult care and cultivation of gloxinia at home.

Causes of the problem

There are not only the reasons discussed above, but also diseases and pests that prevent the plant from blooming.

Briefly about why it does not bloom:

Bad light.
Nutrient deficiencies.
Wrong pot.
Inappropriate temperature content.
excess nitrogen in the soil.
Dry air.
The absence of a full period of rest (for more details on when to remove gloxinia to rest, you can find out in).

Most often, indoor plants affect fungal infections that inhibit development and can completely destroy the plant. It looks like wilting with various spots and rotten areas.

You can try to save the plant:

Remove affected areas.
Carefully remove the plant from the soil.
Look at the root.
Cut off rotten areas on the tuber with a sharp knife and process with crushed coal.
Spray the plant along with the tuber with fungicides.
Plant in clean soil.

If the root neck has rotted, then the only salvation will be the existing growth point. If there is none, there is no point in saving gloxinia.

Attention! The cause of the disease is improper care and conditions of detention. This is especially true for watering and air temperature.

You can learn more about gloxinia diseases, and you can read in more detail about what leaf diseases a plant has.

Pests

Gloxinia can infect any indoor pests: spider mites, thrips, aphids and others. If insects are found in the ground or on a plant, it is necessary to treat with insecticides. Be sure to check the rest of the plants in the house to avoid re-infestation.

If thinned dry areas appear on the leaves, carefully inspect the back of the leaf, perhaps even with a magnifying glass. Some pests are microscopic in size.

As a result of their vital activity, insects harm the flower: they suck out the juice, depriving the plant of part of the nutrients, and also cause mechanical damage. Therefore, a plant affected by pests may not bloom.

Conclusion

There are many legends on the Internet about how to make a plant bloom: they suggest pouring ice or hot water, meat broth and other miraculous remedies. But you should not invent difficulties, you just need to take care of your favorite plant in accordance with all the rules. Then yours will bloom all their time!

If you find an error, please highlight a piece of text and click Ctrl+Enter.

Gloxinia is an amazing plant that flower growers successfully grow at home. It attracts those around it with an incredibly beautiful flowering that has conquered many hearts, pleasing to the eye throughout the summer. But in order for your pet to never disappoint you, you should properly care for it.

Gloxinia at room conditions: will it bloom or not

Similar in shape to bells, gloxinia flowers instantly captivate those around them.

Because of this similarity, gloxinia got its name: Gloken in German means “bells”.

Their coloration is characterized by a variety of colors: pink, red, burgundy and purple bells are found, but most often white. In addition, they can be both terry and non-terry; multi-colored, as well as with a colored border around the edge. The presence of a smell in a flower also depends on the plant variety. There are varieties without aroma, but there are fragrant with a wonderful smell.

With proper care, up to a dozen buds can form on the peduncle

One of the main advantages of this plant is cap flowering. Probably, every gloxinievod strives to get just that. But for such a flowering of gloxinia, one must try to collect as many buds as possible.

When propagating gloxinia with the help of leaves, it takes 4 months to see the flowering of the plant.

Remember that the number of flower stalks and opened bells on gloxinia depends directly on care:

the plant needs bright and diffused lighting with a long daylight hours - 12–14 hours;
loose nutrient soil and regular top dressing. They are introduced according to the periods of plant development: during the growth of green mass - one, during the formation of buds - others, also in gardening stores you can buy universal fertilizers for indoor plants, suitable for any stage of a plant's life. So, during the growth of the green mass, gloxinia is fed with aqueous solutions of mineral fertilizers. In April, they are alternated with phosphorus, which promotes the laying of buds. It is at this time that the plant begins to form flower stalks and prepares for flowering. Do not be zealous with phosphorus: it is made once a month.

The flowering period of gloxinia can be extended by stimulating it to re-bloom, which is usually not so abundant. To achieve repeated flowering, first carefully inspect the plant and find the growing point.

If, after the first flowering, a growth point is visible in gloxinia, then soon it will delight you with the appearance of its luxurious bells for the second time. If the growth point of the plant is absent:

Cut off almost all the leaves, leaving 2-4 lower leaves first.
After some time, shoots will appear in the sinuses of gloxinia. Leave one or two of the strongest, and pinch off the weak.
After that, feed gloxinia with nitrogen fertilizer to accelerate the growth of green mass.
When the plant begins to form buds, use a phosphate fertilizer to encourage flowering.

It is also possible that gloxinia blooms throughout the summer and does not have enough strength for another flowering: in this case, it does not need to be cut, it will prepare itself for wintering.

Preparing for winter

In autumn, after the secondary flowering, gloxinia prepares for a dormant period, which is necessary to gain strength for future flowering. Gloxinia leaves gradually fade. What to do in this case?

If the gloxinia continues to bloom in November, let the plant bloom and then reduce watering.

At this time, gloxinia should not be fed. The only thing that is practiced: to prepare for the dormant period, you can fertilize the plants once with potash fertilizer (for example, potassium monophosphate). When the leaves completely wither, watering is stopped completely.

To prepare the plant for wintering, yellowed and wilted foliage is cut off from it, leaving a stump of 1–2 cm.

Do not immediately cut off the entire aerial part of gloxinia: for a successful wintering and subsequent awakening of the plant, nutrients need to gradually move from the leaves and stem to the tuber.

There are two ways to store gloxinia tuber in winter:

in a pot with a substrate;
in a plastic bag (dug tuber).

Let's get to know them in more detail.

Wintering in the ground

If your plant is still in a pot for the winter:

Cover the container with tubers (you can sprinkle it with sand) with a pallet and pack it in a plastic bag (you do not need to tie the bag).
Hide gloxinia in a cool place with a temperature of at least 10 o C.

With such storage, there is a drawback: it is necessary to ensure that the tubers do not dry out and the plant does not wake up ahead of time.

If your gloxinia stays in the ground for the winter, moisten the soil once a month so that the tuber does not dry out.

Storage of the excavated tuber

Some flower growers dig up gloxinia tubers for the period of winter storage from a pot and put them in a bag. This method of storage is good because the tubers do not wake up prematurely.

To properly “put them to bed”, you need to:

In autumn, remove the tubers from the pot and place in a plastic bag.
Inside the bag, add vermiculite in half with moistened soil or sawdust. Put it in the refrigerator for 2-3 months in the vegetable storage compartment, where the temperature is maintained at about 12 ° C. In January, remove the tubers and place them in a warm and bright place so that they wake up.

Write on the labels of the packages the variety of gloxinia and the date of laying the tuber for wintering, because early awakening can adversely affect flowering

Video: preparing gloxinia for winter

"Restless" wintering

If gloxinia is not put to sleep for the winter, its stem will stretch and become ugly, and this will also affect flowering: the tuber still needs rest. But young plants grown from seeds do not have a dormant period: otherwise, a small tuber may die during the winter.

With the winter content of non-resting gloxinia, they need additional illumination

Care after a dormant period

In January, after wintering, when the first shoots hatch, gloxinia tubers are planted in a new, more nutritious soil. To transplant a tuber:

Carefully remove it from the ground and cut off bad roots (rotten places are also cut with a knife, sprinkling cuts with charcoal or ash).
Before planting, for disinfection, the tubers are dipped in a weak solution of manganese for half an hour, dried for about a day and planted in the ground, covered with a film until the first leaves appear from the ground.
Periodically, the greenhouse is ventilated, removing the film in the morning and in the evening for one hour.
After the appearance of the first pair of leaves, the film can be removed, and soil must be added to the pot in order to completely cover the tuber with earth without deepening the sprouts.

It may also be that gloxinia wakes up too early and the first leaves appear prematurely from the ground. In this case, if the tuber is large and strong, then it is better to remove the early leaf so that the plant does not stretch in the future.

Don't worry: when you remove the first shoots, new ones will grow in their place after a while.

Does not bloom: 9 "why"

It happens that even after a good winter rest, gloxinia does not bloom. As a rule, the main reasons for the lack of flowers in gloxinia are:

Improper care and storage.
Old tuber. In order for gloxinia to bloom, it is necessary to increase watering. Water even slightly dry soil.
Infection or overfeeding of the tuber: the plant loses its strength, which in the future is simply not enough for flowering.
Infected soil. When the soil is infected with pests, it is necessary to transplant into another, pre-treated with boiling water, soil.
Lack of light at elevated air temperatures: the stems of gloxinia are stretched, the flowering period begins much later or is completely absent.
Improper use of fertilizer. The plant will react to an excess or lack of fertilizer with yellowing of the foliage and poor flowering. To avoid this, apply fertilizer strictly according to the instructions on the package.
Draft. In the cold and in the draft, gloxinia flowers curl. The favorable air temperature for it is 18–20 ° C. Move the flower pot to a warmer place without drafts.
Insufficient air humidity. Dry indoor air leads to delayed flowering. Humidify the air by placing a glass of water next to the gloxinia.
Incorrect selection of capacity. Ideally, you need a low and wide planter. In a large pot, the plant spends energy on tuber growth, and not on flowering. Ideal proportions for planters: diameter - 12 cm, height - 10 cm.

With proper care, a gloxinia tuber can live for about ten years, delighting others with luxurious velvet bells. The more powerful the tuber, the more flower stalks are formed on it, so pay special attention to its choice. And one more tip: to prolong the flowering of gloxinia, remove faded inflorescences in time. And remember, in order for this plant to grow and bloom easily in your home, you need to make a little effort.

06 mar 2018

Gloxinia beautiful indoor flower , which in popularity can compete with room violet. Gloxinia and violet are relatives, belong to the same Gesneriaceae family. Their common features are velvety leaves, collected in a rosette.

Gloxinia stands out with flowers - large bells, they are compared with gramophones. Gloxinia flowers come in different colors: pink, scarlet, burgundy, lilac, purple, with a bright border, with a speck, terry shape, with corrugated edges. Buds solitary, each on a long pedicel. A flower after opening can last a week, but gloxinia blooms from one month to six months, depending on the strength of the tuber and the care of the plant.

Unlike violet, gloxinia has a tuber that needs a dormant period. In autumn, after flowering, the ground part of the plant dries up, the tuber sleeps until spring. In order for gloxinia to bloom magnificently, it is necessary to provide the plant with a year-round cycle: in the spring - the awakening of the tuber and the growth of green mass, in the summer - flowering, in the fall - the transition of the plant to a dormant state, in winter - the storage of the tuber in a dormant state. Every stage v growing gloxinia at home conditions let's study in detail.

Gloxinia tubers:

The basis of an indoor flower is a tuber, you can buy it. By growing gloxinia from seed or by rooting a leaf or cutting, you will get your flower tubers. The gloxinia tuber is flattened, with small indentations on its upper part. A healthy tuber with a smooth surface, firm, not wrinkled, without dents and wounds. The size of an adult tuber is 4-6 cm in diameter. After the age of 3-4 years, the tubers grow old, bloom poorly, and may not germinate.

After buying a gloxinia tuber or after a storage period, it is recommended to decontaminate them and stimulate them to germinate. To do this, the tubers are soaked for no more than half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or with "Fitosporin" to prevent the appearance of rot. Add drops of "Zircon" or "Epin" (1 drop per 100 ml) to the soaking solution to stimulate tubers to germinate. After soaking and drying, additionally spray the purchased flower tubers with "Fitoverm" or "Aktelik" for disinfection from pests and their larvae. Cuts and wounds for disinfection are dried, smeared with brilliant green or sprinkled with charcoal.

After soaking, you do not need to immediately plant the tubers in pots, wait until they sprout. To wake up, the tubers are laid out on a layer of peat, placed in a warm place (tuber awakening temperature + 23 ... + 25 degrees), with diffused lighting, and the tubers are regularly sprayed to moisten. After the appearance of sprouts, tubers are planted in pots.

If the gloxinia tuber does not sprout, it has a shriveled appearance, it may be dead. Live tuber on a cut of yellow or pinkish color. Gloxinia tubers die due to improper storage conditions - they dry out or rot, as well as from old age.

Landing gloxinia:

For planting gloxinia tubers, choose a pot that is not deep, 4-5 cm in diameter, larger than the size of the tuber. Gloxinia tubers are planted in a new land at the beginning of each season.

Land for planting gloxinia suitable for violets. To prepare the substrate, leafy soil, peat and sand (perlite or vermiculite) are mixed independently in a ratio of 2:2:1. Gloxinia does not like the acidic reaction of the soil, so it is recommended to add a little charcoal to the ground for planting, which will reduce acidity and absorb excess moisture. With a neutral soil reaction, leaf chlorosis may occur.

When planting gloxinia, be sure to make drainage, with a layer of 2-3 cm, from expanded clay or other material. When planting sprouted tubers, the sprouts should remain in the light, then, as they grow, the earth is sprinkled so that the tuber is at a depth of 1-2 cm.

Gloxinia in spring the ground part is actively growing and during this period it is important to follow the rules for caring for the flower - lighting, temperature, watering and nutrition, the correct formation of the plant and the beginning of flowering depend on these factors.

Gloxinia lighting should be bright, but without the midday sun, so north or south windows are not suitable for this flower. From the east or west side, in the morning or in the evening, the sun's rays will not damage the flowers, the plants turn to the light source in different directions so that the rosette of leaves does not turn out to be one-sided. It is possible to grow gloxinias in the back of the room under artificial lighting, the plants develop well under phyto lamps and the flowers are presented with a better view.

With a lack of lighting, the stem stretches, few buds form, flowers and leaves are pale in color.

In direct sunlight, the flowers fade quickly, and burns may appear on the leaves.

Temperature. The growth rate of gloxinia largely depends on temperature, and if it is hot in the room, the stem of the plant quickly stretches, becomes unstable, falls under the weight of flowers and buds. Some varieties are prone to stem elongation. An excess of nitrogen and a lack of lighting accelerate the overgrowth of the stem even more. To grow a compact rosette of leaves for gloxinia, after the germination of tubers, the temperature is kept at a temperature of + 19 ... + 23 degrees.

If the temperature is below +18 degrees, the development of indoor flowers slows down, the risk of tuber rot increases, the plants feel uncomfortable, the leaves curl, flowering does not occur.

At temperatures above +25 degrees, the flowers fade prematurely, the stems quickly outgrow and lie down. You can reduce the effect of heat on indoor plants by increasing the humidity of the air, but you can’t spray on leaves and flowers, as water droplets will leave stains on them. Spray the air around house flowers, place containers of water or wet moss between the pots.

In top dressing gloxinia needs regularly, every week or every 10 days, but the fertilizer is diluted in 2 times lower concentration than for other indoor flowers. Top dressing begins to be done after the appearance of sprouts until the end of flowering. You can use a complex fertilizer, where the ratio of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium is balanced in a ratio of 1:2:2.

An excess of nitrogen leads to overgrowth and stretching of the stem of the flower, delaying the start of flowering. With a lack of this element, growth is slowed down, the tuber does not grow, so young plants that have not yet begun to bloom are fertilized with compounds with a high nitrogen content or alternate mineral fertilizers with organic ones.

Phosphorus and potassium are important for flowering gloxinia, their lack reduces the number of buds, buds may not open, flowers are pale in color. A sign of a lack of phosphorus is reddening of the leaves.

Watering. Watering gloxinia need moderately, after drying the top layer of earth in a pot. These home flowers tolerate a lack of water more easily than waterlogging. Excessive watering leads to rotting of the tuber; at the same time, leaves and buds can begin to rot from the petioles. Accelerates the processes of decay, a combination of waterlogging and excess nitrogen in the soil.

For watering home gloxinia, you must use soft water at room temperature. You need to water the flowers along the contour of the pot, moistening the ground around the tuber and preventing moisture from entering the center of the outlet.

Gloxinia dormancy and tuber storage.

Gloxinia in October goes into a state of rest. Top dressing is finished after flowering, watering is carried out less often, the leaves gradually wither and dry. At the end of October, the stem is cut off, leaving a small stump, the pot with the tuber is moved to a cool place where the temperature is +12 ... +15 degrees. During dormancy of the tuber in a pot of earth, rare watering is carried out so that the tuber in the ground does not dry out.

Young one-year-old plants obtained from seeds or after rooting of leaf cuttings are not put into dormancy in the first year, they continue to be watered and fertilized as before. In young gloxinia, the tuber is still very small, it will not endure a long hibernation and will not germinate in the spring. If gloxinia has more than 5 leaves in a rosette, then its tuber can be put into a dormant state and sent for storage.

You can dig up a gloxinia tuber for storage, place it in a bag of peat and put it on a shelf in the refrigerator, but observing the temperature regime of at least +10 degrees. With such storage, the risk of drying out of the tuber is minimal. However, it is not necessary to reduce the temperature during storage of tubers, since after a cold wintering problems arise during flowering, buds may form, but not open.

In hibernation, the gloxinia tuber should stay for 4 months from November to February, during which time it will gain strength for lush flowering in the new season.

Problems when growing gloxinia:

Beautiful gloxinia flowers look decorative on a properly grown compact rosette of leaves with a short stem.

Gloxinia is stretched with a lack of light, high temperature, an excess of nitrogen fertilizers. It is recommended to cut the elongated stem, it can be rooted separately. After correcting care errors, the tuber will grow a new compact shoot.