When is the best time to plant watermelons outdoors. How to plant watermelons - tips for a good harvest

Originally from Africa, this summer berry was known to the ancient Romans and Egyptians thousands of years ago. Because of its diuretic properties, it has been a popular drug. Watermelons are grown in house plots, in the country, in the fields and farms. It is important to know that planting watermelons, like other plants, has different methods: in open soil or in a greenhouse. The process of planting watermelons is unpretentious, it is not difficult to grow a watermelon at home, but negligence and violation of the main agro-technological rules can destroy the plant even before the flowering stage. How to plant watermelons in different ways, what mistakes to avoid when planting and caring for watermelon in order to get a rich harvest, read below.

Soil preparation

It is clear that soil preparation is the most important step in the cultivation of this plant. After all, this is the environment in which the plant will develop until fruiting. But first, a few words must be said about the selection and preparation of seed. Select the correct variety or hybrid initially for your climate. Hybrids are usually already treated with fungicides, so they do not need the seed preparation method described below.

Place watermelon seeds in cheesecloth and dip in warm potassium permanganate solution before sowing. Place this container in a plastic bag and place it indoors at room temperature. Change the solution every day. Seed preparation does not take much time. In a couple of days you will see how the seeds hatch - this is a signal that you can plant them in the ground.

This plant is planted in a warm, well-lit place. Watermelon needs sandy or sandy soil. It is good if onions, cabbage, legumes were planted before the watermelon in this area.

As for the soil, its preparation involves the following actions:

• even in the fall, it is better to enrich the soil with compost so that next year it is fruitful;
• before planting in the soil for watermelons, it is worth adding potash, phosphate fertilizers and ammonium sulfate in a proportion of 1 m² 20:40:30 g;
• the earth needs to be loosened and the beds prepared in advance.

Seedling method

The method is great for growing this plant in areas with short and not very hot summers. For planting watermelons using the seedling method, you need to select high-quality seeds of early hybrids. Keep in mind that after germination, seedlings cannot be planted for another 25 days. The seeds must be sown in April. How to properly plant seeds for watermelon seedlings? For seedlings of watermelons, special peat or plastic cups are used, in which one seed is planted.

Watermelon potting soil can be purchased from the store, or you can make your own. To do this, mix humus, peat, sand, earth in equal proportions and add wood ash. By the way, this mixture is suitable for all members of the Pumpkin family. Dip the seed into a moistened earthen mixture for a couple of centimeters. Place the cups under the plastic wrap. After emergence, the film is no longer needed.

Leave the cups on the windowsill in a room with an air temperature of no more than 22 degrees. The seedlings must be constantly monitored. Remove weak shoots after 5-7 days. One and a half weeks after germination, you can feed the seedlings. Dilute mullein, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate in water and water gently. Do not get the solution on the sheets.

Before planting watermelons outdoors, stop watering for 3 days and lower the room temperature so that the plant is ready for a stressful situation.

Growing from seeds

In the southern regions, the plant is planted in open ground with seeds. How to plant watermelons using this method and when is it usually sown? Pre-prepared good seeds are planted in the ground 10 cm deep. When disembarking, the ground temperature should be at least 14 degrees. When planting watermelons in the ground, pay attention to its structure. If it is sandy soil, then you can deepen the seeds by 8-10 cm, and if it is solid, then by 4-6 cm.

To grow a watermelon, prepare the soil: mix the top layer of earth with humus and ash and pour it into the hole. Line it all up and fill it with water. It is recommended to put at least 5 seeds in one hole. This does not mean that 5 individuals will grow from one hole. It's just that over time you will need to leave the strongest seedling there.

Outdoor planting

When you see that the seedlings have grown stronger, the grown young plants can be transplanted into open ground. The first thing when planting watermelons in open ground is the selection of a place. It is better to choose a well-lit, windless area. If the place is windy, you can plant watermelons behind a corn fence. Then prepare the ground for the new plant - use organic fertilizers.

Often asked, at what distance to plant watermelons? It is recommended to adhere to the following parameters: there should be a distance of at least a meter between plants. They are usually planted with a checkerboard - the standard scheme for planting watermelons. Place the seedlings in the holes and compact with soil, leaving shoots with leaves on the surface. When all individuals are planted, water each one generously.

Planting and leaving in the open field includes not difficult, but basic steps:

• periodic weeding and loosening of the earth around the base;
• regular watering;
• pinching shoots;
• weed removal;
• fertilization with organic matter added to superphosphate and calcium chloride;
• treatment for diseases and pests.

It is also necessary to store and transport the harvested crop with the right approach, whatever the volume. First, you need to understand how resistant your variety is to shipping and storage. Secondly, you must prepare a special place for the watermelon. The room should have a temperature of up to 5 degrees with a humidity of 70-80% and a good ventilation system. Cover the bottom with dry moss or sawdust. Constantly monitor the watermelons, their condition.

Planting in a greenhouse

How to properly plant a watermelon at home if the climate is cold? It can be grown in a greenhouse without any problems. But here comes the question: how to plant a watermelon in a greenhouse?

Using this algorithm, you can properly plant and care for watermelons:

1. The seeds are planted in containers until the sprout appears. You can take specialized land for watermelons.
2. The soil for transplanting is prepared in a known way - by adding organic fertilizers to the soil.
3. Seedlings are placed in the holes at a distance of 70–80 cm.
4. Get a couple of bees in a greenhouse for better pollination.
5. Prune excess shoots.
6. Fertilize with mullein or liquid droppings.
7. July-August is harvest time.

Video "How to grow watermelons"

In this video, you will learn how to properly grow watermelons.

Probably every gardener thought about how to grow a watermelon in the country. With the desire and a little patience, it is easy to achieve good results in this matter. A fairly simple agricultural technique will allow you to get a crop, including a novice gardener, and even a child.

Choosing a seed

It is also possible to grow watermelon seedlings from the seed of a watermelon purchased in a store, but in this case it is definitely impossible to guarantee a good result, since the fruits of the daughter plant are unlikely to be similar to those of the mother. That is, if you have purchased an unusually tasty, sweet, juicy watermelon, then the fruits grown from its seeds will certainly differ in taste. Therefore, in this case, it is better to purchase high-quality seed at specialized points of sale.

As for the choice of varieties, experienced gardeners advise purchasing hybrid varieties, since they are the ones that are more adapted to changeable weather conditions and the climate in which we live, as well as the most resistant to possible diseases. Among the hybrid varieties, the following are best known:

• Astrakhan;
• Madeira;
• F1 sympathy;

Video about growing watermelons

However, if you are going to grow a watermelon for the first time, then you can experiment by choosing for planting, but preferably still early ripening, such as Ogonyok, Sugar baby, etc.

It is necessary to start work already at the end of March or mid-April, then the young plant will have time to gain strength and will well transfer the transplant to a permanent place of growth. As a soil mixture, a composition of the following components is ideal:

• sod land;
• humus or peat;
• sawdust.

It is necessary to start work at the end of March or mid-April.

All components are taken in equal parts and mixed well. It also makes sense to purchase ready-made soil and use it. It is better to take individual cups or pots with a depth of at least 10-12 cm as containers for growing seedlings.

When planting seeds, it should be borne in mind that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes a long time. To speed up the process, the seeds should be slightly softened by warming them up in warm water (50-55 0 С) for 10 minutes, and then leave them in a wet cotton cloth until they "peck", keeping an eye on moisture retention. Instead of fabric, you can use hydrogel, which has recently been gaining popularity among gardeners.

After the seed has "opened" and the sprout length has reached 1-2 mm, it is important to harden the planting material. In this case, it is recommended to use one of two options:

1. Collect snow in a deep container or put ice in it, and germinated seeds on top. Leave them like this for 5-6 hours.
2. Take a small piece of cotton cloth, moisten it with water and squeeze thoroughly. Place the hatched seeds in a damp cloth and put them in this form in the refrigerator for 5-7 hours.

When planting seeds, it should be borne in mind that they are covered with a thick shell, which is why germination takes a long time

Do not worry that the sprouts will freeze and become unviable, on the contrary, such hardening is the best prevention against many diseases. These measures will allow the plant to harden, become less susceptible to weather conditions.

After hardening, the germinated material can be planted. The seed is lowered into the prepared soil to a depth of 3-4 cm, and gently sprinkled with earth on top. The plantings are thoroughly watered, without overflow, but the soil must be well moistened.

Further, before germination, you will need to close the containers with plantings with a film, forming a kind of greenhouse. In general, it is advised to use simple plastic bags and rubber bands for this. Before the sprouts appear, the containers are left alone, making sure that the earth does not dry out in them. After the sprouts have appeared, the film is removed and the seedlings are placed in a permanent place. The following measures are recommended for seedling care:

• timely watering. Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure that the soil is moist all the time, do not dry out. However, since the culture is prone to root rot, transfusion should not be allowed, as this leads to the loss of seedlings;
• supplementary lighting. To prevent the seedlings from stretching, it is important to extend the daylight hours to 10-12 hours using a simple table lamp;

Watermelon loves moisture, so you need to make sure that the soil is moist all the time

• Top dressing. It is allowed to feed the seedlings a week after the emergence of shoots. A 1 to 10 mullein solution is best suited.

Seedlings are considered ready for planting if the plant already has 3-4 leaves, it is stocky enough and has a developed root system.

Of course, greenhouse conditions are better suited for growing watermelon. However, those gardeners who do not have the opportunity to plant a plant in a greenhouse get an excellent harvest in the open field.

For growing melons in the open field, choose the lightest and warmest place, preferably with sandy loam or sandy soil (ideal acidity 6-7). Solanaceous or melon plants should not be allowed to be the predecessors of watermelons, due to common pests.

For growing melons in the open field, choose the lightest and warmest place

A garden bed for watermelons is prepared in the fall. The earth is carefully dug up with half-rotted manure or humus. When digging, it is necessary to carefully consider the removal of weed roots, since the watermelon strongly dislikes such "neighbors".

In the spring, as soon as the snow melts and the threat of day and night frosts has passed, the earth is carefully loosened and covered with a black non-woven cloth or transparent film. Both options are possible, but many gardeners choose exactly transparent film, since it has a number of advantages:

• reduces evaporation from the soil in hot weather;
• prevents waterlogging of the earth during a rainy period;
• keeps fruits dry and clean during their growth;
• the ground under the film is warm and humid.

After letting the ground warm up, small cross-shaped holes are made in the covering material for planting seedlings with an interval of approximately 140x70 cm.

A small hole is made under each hole, into which fertilizers (humus, ash) are applied and watered thoroughly. Seedlings, having previously soaked the ground with abundant watering, are very carefully removed from the cups and planted, deepening the plant to the level of the root collar.

Care must be taken that the soil is important, but not waterlogged

When deciding how to grow a watermelon in the country, do not forget that a plant growing in open ground needs appropriate care:

1. Timely watering. Care must be taken that the soil is important, but not waterlogged. Watering is best done in the evening. Be careful not to get water on the leaves of the plant.
2. Weeding. Watermelon strongly dislikes unwanted neighbors, so weed removal should be regular.
3. Tracking the growth of the whips. They must be directed in one direction, making sure that they do not intertwine with each other as they grow.
4. Top dressing. The first feeding is carried out a week after planting the seedlings in the ground. Further, according to the instructions for the fertilizer used. However, feeding should be stopped after the fruit is set in order to minimize the accumulation of nitrates in the fruit of the watermelon.
5. Regular inspection of plants for pests and diseases.
6. Pollination. If you do not rely on insects, then you need to manually pollinate using a special brush, which can be purchased at the store.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Before planting seedlings, the ground in the greenhouse must be prepared by carefully digging it up with humus. It is worth planting plants in the greenhouse only when the threat of frost has passed, it is optimal if the daytime air temperature reaches 20-25 0 С, and at night it will not drop below 5 0 С.

Video about growing watermelons in a greenhouse

Seedlings are planted in the same way as in the case of open ground, taking into account only that the distance between the plants should be 70 cm, and the row spacing should be 50 cm. Otherwise, nothing can be changed.

Growing watermelons in a greenhouse means taking proper care of the plant. In addition to everything described above, it is necessary to pay more careful attention to pollination, since it can be difficult for insects to get inside. In addition, when growing watermelons in a greenhouse, it is necessary to ventilate in addition to the main list. On hot summer days, at temperatures above 30 0, be sure to open the vents or door in the greenhouse.

The best watermelons are brought from the southern regions, but you can get a good harvest of this huge striped berry even in the Moscow region; planting watermelons even in the Leningrad region. It turns out that this is not difficult to do, you just need to know the basics of melon growing and put a little work into it. The basic operations are familiar to every gardener, and the only obstacle can be too cold summer.

Description of the plant

Watermelon belongs to the pumpkin family and is an annual plant. Most varieties have a long, creeping stem, extending up to two meters. The leaves are dark green in color, large, with a strong dissection. According to biological classification, the fruit is a berry, very large, usually spherical in shape. In some varieties, it is not a ball, but an elongated torpedo-shaped berry. The weight of the fetus is significant: it can range from 500 g to 20 kg. The bark of a watermelon has various shades of green; most often it is covered with dark or light stripes, but it can also be monochromatic. The pulp is juicy, in most cases red or dark pink, but there are varieties with an orange or yellow heart. There are usually a lot of seeds, they are large, 1–2 cm long, flat, hard, black or brown in color.

How does a watermelon grow

The main part of the harvest of watermelons is obtained in the subtropical zone, much less in temperate climates. In Russia, watermelon is grown mainly in the Lower Volga region and the North Caucasus, but amateur gardeners are promoting the culture much further north. Watermelon originates from the African continent. This culture tolerates heat and drought, it needs warmth and bright sunlight. However, the watermelon normally tolerates short cold snaps, it is undemanding to the composition of the soil. The roots are able to suck out water from considerable depths, so the watermelon is able to grow in conditions of moisture deficit. At the same time, it responds well to artificial irrigation, in which, in combination with planting on light sandy loam soils, it produces fruits of very high quality.

Watermelon should be in the sun, and adult plants extract water for themselves

Application

Watermelon is good for people of all ages. Its juice is dominated by simple, easily digestible sugars - glucose and fructose, and in terms of the content of the latter, it is one of the champions among cultivated plants. Watermelon contains various organic acids, including folic acid, which is of great importance for the human body. Watermelon contributes to the regulation of fat metabolism, which determines its use in medicine and nutrition, contains iron salts and other trace elements. There is even a concept of a watermelon diet.

Watermelon is consumed mainly fresh, being a wonderful summer dessert. You can eat almost unlimited amounts of it, although doctors warn against excesses in the presence of certain diseases. At the same time, during the mass harvest, watermelons are also used for various harvesting. You can make juice from them, and with slow evaporation of the latter, you can get nardek honey. Very tasty candied watermelon is known. There are many lovers of salted and canned watermelons: small fruits, including those that are not fully ripe, are spent on such preparations.

Varieties

All known varieties of watermelon are conventionally divided into early ripening, mid-ripening and late. If we talk about our country, then late varieties (for example, Spring, Ikar, Holodok) it makes sense to plant only in the southernmost regions; in Central Russia, only early varieties have time to fully ripen, such as Victoria, Skorik, Ogonyok. Varieties of medium ripening (Lezheboka, Ataman, etc.) occupy an intermediate position. Among the "classic" varieties of watermelon, the following are the most popular.

• Ogonyok is an extremely popular early maturing variety, known since the times of the USSR. The fruits are small (about 2 kg), the seeds in them are very small, and the pulp has an excellent delicate taste. The bark is thin, its color is black-green with a blurred pattern. The variety is capable of fully ripening in the Central Black Earth, East Siberian and Far Eastern regions.
• Chill is one of the most famous varieties of late-ripening watermelons. Fruits are stored for more than 3 months, the variety is very productive, has an excellent taste. The chill appeared in the early 1990s, and is intended for planting in the North Caucasian and Lower Volga regions. The bush is very powerful, with long (up to 5 meters) lashes, moderately resistant to diseases. The fruit is somewhat elongated, weighing about 4 kg, dark green with almost black stripes. Watermelon cannot be called thin, but it is well transported and stored. The flesh of a watermelon is bright red, very sweet, tender.
• Suga baby - a variety included in the State Register not so long ago, is intended for the Central Black Earth Region, but can be grown further north, since it easily tolerates cold snaps, including in the spring. An ultra-early ripening variety. The bush and leaves are medium in size, the fruit is round and rather small: most of the specimens reach a mass of 1 kg, and only a few grow up to 4 kg. The fruit is thin-cored, striped, with a usual dark green color outside. The pulp is dark red in color, with very small seeds. The palatability is characterized as excellent. Since "Suga baby" is translated as "Sugar baby", you can find a description of the variety under both names on the web, which can cause some confusion. So, describing "Sugar baby", they indicate that it is recommended for severe weather conditions, including for cultivation in Siberia, since it is extremely resistant to low temperatures. However, the variety under this (Russian) name is absent in the State Register, but at the same time, the main part of the description corresponds to both Russian and English names. A universal variety: it is good not only fresh, but also salted. Carries easily.
• Crimson sweet is one of the trendy varieties grown in most European countries, of French origin. Watermelon of ultra-early ripening, but in its segment - one of the largest-fruited. Globular fruits weigh an average of 10 kg, and can grow even larger. Coloring - classic watermelon, striped (lighter stripes on a dark green background), dark red pulp, without veins, very sweet and tasty, crispy. The fruits are transportable, well stored, and the plants themselves are drought and disease resistant.

Photo gallery: popular varieties of watermelons

Spark is a well-deserved early variety that grows in almost all regions Chill comes on the shelves in September and can delight with its taste for several months Sugar baby ripens very quickly, therefore it is planted in almost all regions of Crimson suite - one of the largest-fruited among early varieties

In addition to those listed in this list, in recent years, various exotic varieties that do not fit into the usual image of a striped berry with a red interior filled with numerous seeds have enjoyed certain popularity. For example, there is a very expensive and scarce black watermelon. The Densuke variety is grown in Japan. Outside, it is absolutely black, glossy, without stripes, weighs 5-7 kg, and inside it contains the usual-looking bright red pulp. True, the gourmets who have tasted it describe the taste not just as sweet, but as magnificent. At the same time, in Russia there are also domestic, very inexpensive, varieties that outwardly resemble Densuke. Such are, for example, the Black Prince or the Black Excellent. They may not be as tasty, but they also don't cost that much on the market.

Densuke's black watermelon is very expensive, but is it rightful for gourmets to decide

In recent years, watermelons with yellow flesh have come into vogue. They are hybrid plants; outwardly, they are no different from traditional watermelons, but inside they are yellow. They have almost no seeds (and sometimes no seeds at all), and the taste is very different from the usual. The pulp may contain flavors of mango, lemon, pineapple and other southern fruits. So, for example, about 10 years ago, the Lunny watermelon was included in the State Register of the Russian Federation. Like all other yellow watermelons, it ripens early. A medium-sized bush, elliptical in shape, the fruit is small: its weight is from 2 to 3 kg. The outside is striped, but the flesh is light yellow, tender, of excellent taste. Capable of short-term storage (about a month).

Lunar outside - an ordinary watermelon, but inside it looks very unusual

Already in the middle of the last century, varieties of watermelons with a complete lack of seeds were bred. As a rule, such watermelons are sweeter, the shape of most varieties is oblong, and the mass is relatively small (about 4 kg).

A reasonable question: how to plant seedless watermelons? For this, seeds are obtained by special crossing with other varieties, but this procedure leads to the fact that growing a seedless watermelon is somewhat more difficult than an ordinary one.

The seedless hybrids are, for example, Imbar F1, Regus F1, Boston F1. So, the Boston F1 watermelon is included in the State Register of the Russian Federation and is recommended for cultivation in the North Caucasus region. It belongs to early maturing hybrids, forms a long-leaved bush. The fruit is spherical, light green, with narrow, inconspicuous stripes. The usual weight is up to 4 kg, some representatives grow up to 10 kg, thin-bore. The pulp is tasty, pink-red in color. The fruits are well transported, but they are stored no more than two weeks after harvest.

Reviews of some varieties

Last year I decided to try to grow a watermelon in KALININGRAD for the sake of "pampering"! I chose an early variety "Ogonyok" from the "Sibirskiy Sadovod" company. The germination rate was 100%. I left only 2 pieces, the most active ones. Monthly sprouts planted in a greenhouse. They fit well with the tomatoes in the neighborhood))) Not climbing, I didn't even have to remove the excess))) Soon 2 Watermelon appeared on each plant. He went on to crawl and bloom, but I pinched the whole thing, they would not have had time to ripen. By the end of August, 3 watermelons were ripe. The fourth did not have time to ripen. Small in size, but weighty. The pulp is orange-scarlet. Juicy. Little bones! In general, I am absolutely delighted !!!

"Julia773"

https://otzovik.com/review_5744757.html

I haven't made friends with Chill for two seasons. He waved his hand at it, although if it worked out, you can save it until the New Year. Even if there is no good cellar-basement, then on the glassed-in loggia it lies until frost. And what a taste for Chill - all watermelons have a watermelon.

"German"

http://dacha.wcb.ru/index.php?showtopic=47904&st=1280

And I like Suga Baby or sugar baby, watermelons are not very large, but very sweet and tasty.

Ninyureva

http://forum.prihoz.ru/viewtopic.php?t=1991&start=945

Crimson Sweet is an early ripening variety, for Siberia - that's it !!! , - I didn’t weigh, as I bought the scales only last fall for daily weighing of my “champion”. It seems that the weight of watermelons could be increased by a small normalization.

Ukolova

http://vinforum.ru/index.php?topic=349.0

Growing watermelon seedlings

In the south and in most areas of the Lower Volga region, watermelons can be grown by direct sowing of seeds in open ground, but in regions that are not warm enough for this culture, preliminary preparation of seedlings is necessary. Sometimes seedlings have to be grown in the south, if there is a desire to get the fruits of the latest varieties.

Planting seeds for seedlings

If the seeds were bought in a specialized store and the manufacturer is not in doubt, preliminary preparation of the seeds is not required. But if the seeds are taken from a watermelon bought for food, you need to be careful. First, it may be a hybrid, and then nothing good will come of it. Secondly, the seeds can carry hidden signs of disease, so they must at least be disinfected. There is no need to check seeds for germination: they are suitable for a watermelon for at least 6 years, but it is worth choosing the largest ones.

For disinfection, the seeds are soaked for 20-30 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, and then washed with water. When growing a watermelon in the central region and in the north, it is advisable to harden the seeds (hold for about 12 hours in a damp cloth in the refrigerator). This stage will also help in the prevention against most diseases. If you do nothing of this, you can simply soak the seeds before planting, but soaking will only give a two-day advantage in germination rate, you can also sow dry.

Watermelon seeds are easy to handle: they are quite large

Based on the possible timing of planting 35-day seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse, it turns out that sowing seeds for seedlings should be in mid or late April (depending on the region). Since watermelons are painful to transplant, it is better to immediately sow the seeds in separate cups with a capacity of at least 250 ml and a depth of about 10 cm (it is best to use peat pots). As a last resort, pre-sowing in a common box is possible, followed by neat planting in pots. Soil is a mixture of equal parts of garden soil, sand, humus and peat, or a mixture purchased from a store.

Before sowing, the soil is slightly moistened and the seeds are buried to a depth of about 3 cm, sprinkling a layer of clean sand of 0.5-1 cm on top. You can put 2-3 seeds in a pot (then remove excess shoots), sow in a common box after 3-4 cm.

Seedling care

It is easy to care for seedlings. Immediately after germination, the "vegetable garden" should be placed in the bright sun and the temperature should be reduced to about 18 ° C, and after a few days it should be returned to 22 ° C during the day and 18 ° C at night. In the future, you need to monitor the condition of the soil and lighting: daylight hours should last at least 12 hours, so the seedlings may need to be illuminated a little. It is necessary to water at the root, but lightly: the soil should be slightly moist.

5-7 days after the seedlings have hatched, they must be thinned out: if the sowing was in pots, leave one at a time, if in a box - remove obviously superfluous ones. The next day after thinning, you can give top dressing: a weak solution of a complex mineral fertilizer (according to the instructions) or an infusion of ash.

Watermelon seedlings manage to grow into a rather large bush in a month

A week before planting in the ground, watermelon seedlings are taught to fresh air, periodically taking them out to the balcony. By the time of planting in the garden, it should be strong bushes with 4-5 true leaves.

Is it possible to pick watermelon seedlings

In the classical sense, picking a watermelon is unacceptable: the slightest damage to the central root leads to the fact that further work will be meaningless: even if the seedlings do not die, there is no need to wait for a normal harvest. But if the sowing was carried out in a common box, when the first true leaf appears, you can plant watermelons in pots, taking out each seedling with a good clod of earth and without disturbing the root system. This can be done only if you have a lot of experience in gardening and when absolutely necessary: ​​so that the seedlings do not even feel that they have been manipulated in some way.

Outdoor watermelon care

Watermelon is a warm and light-loving plant, therefore, it is planted when real heat comes and on a sunny bed. Despite the fact that an adult bush does not seem very large, a watermelon needs a lot of space, planting should not be thickened: this culture loves space.

Planting watermelons in open ground

The watermelon is placed in a place protected from northern winds; if possible - on a small hill so that water does not stagnate, from which the roots can rot. The best soils are light loams or sandy loams with an environment close to neutral. Better to plant them in the place where garlic, onions, peas or cabbage grew last year. Do not plant watermelon after nightshade vegetables. As with any garden dwellers, the garden bed must be prepared in the fall by digging up the soil with any fertilizers, except for fresh manure. Shortly before planting seedlings, the soil must be loosened by adding a liter can of ash per square meter. He loves watermelon and magnesium, so it is advisable to add magnesium-containing fertilizers in a small dose (about 5 g per 1 m 2).

Watermelons are planted when daytime temperatures reach 15–20 o C, and night temperatures are not lower than 8 o C. The distance between plants in a large field is kept from 1.5 to 3 meters, but in the country, of course, there is not so much space. Nevertheless, the holes cannot be closer to each other than half a meter, but it is better to use a 100 x 70 cm scheme.

Watermelon seedlings are moved to the garden bed in the usual way:

1. In the selected places, the holes are made with a scoop somewhat larger than the pots with seedlings.
2. Half a glass of ash is brought into the dug holes, mixed well with the soil and lightly watered.
3. Carefully taking out well-watered seedlings (in no case damaging the roots), plant it, slightly deepening it.
4. Each bush is watered with warm water under the root, then clean sand is poured into the garden bed with a layer of about 1 cm, placing it at least around each plant.

Watering

Watermelon tolerates drought well and does not require heavy watering. It is watered only before the formation of fruits, moisture is especially needed during the period of rapid growth of the leaf apparatus. Until the end of flowering, the soil should be constantly slightly moist, but not waterlogged. It is necessary to water at the root, preferably in the evening, by this time the water is warming up in the sun. After watering, shallow loosening is necessary. It is accompanied by weeding, but as the bush grows, the watermelon itself suppresses the weeds, and you can soon forget about weeding.

During the filling and ripening of watermelon berries, the soil, on the contrary, is slightly dried: by this time, powerful roots are formed in the watermelon, penetrating to a meter depth and getting a sufficient amount of moisture from there. Intense rains that occur in the second half of summer, rather, harm the quality of the crop, making the fruits less sweet.

Top dressing

Watermelons are fed in moderation; special care must be taken in the use of nitrogen fertilizers, it is better not to use them unless absolutely necessary: ​​the nitrogen contained in the complex fertilizer will be enough. The first time feeding is applied in a week and a half after transplanting watermelons into the garden, the second time - a month later. It is better to take mullein infusions by adding wood ash to them, and if they are not available, ammofosk or azofosk (according to the instructions for the drug). As soon as the fruits set, feeding should be stopped: the watermelon will find its own food.

Top dressing is convenient to carry out with special compositions for melons and gourds

Formation of a bush (pinching shoots, trimming excess lashes and breaking out stepchildren)

In the process of the growth of the bush, the watermelon lashes must be periodically shifted so that they do not intertwine with each other. But this is far from the most difficult: it is important to correctly form the bush, removing excess shoots from time to time. When forming a watermelon plant, the main task is that it does not waste its energy on the growth of unnecessary green mass, but directs a maximum of nutrients to the formation and ripening of the crop. In addition, it is necessary to remove some of the fruits, since all those that have tied up, the bush will not be able to provide food even on the most fertile lands. All pruning operations must be carried out on a fine sunny day, so that the cut or pinch points dry out quickly.

The formation procedure depends on the area in which the watermelon is grown. This work is most important in the northern regions, where the summer is short, and every warm day is important for the ripening of the crop. In addition, the course of the procedure also depends on the type of watermelon: the formation of a bush is most important for large-fruited varieties. All work on rationing the yield should be carried out when the berries grow from a hen's egg. There are several approaches to creating a properly fruiting watermelon plant.

• According to the first option, from three to six fruits are left on the main stem (depending on their intended size), and all ovaries are removed from the lateral shoots. In this case, the lateral shoots are not allowed to grow and pinch them over the fourth leaf. The point of keeping short shoots is to provide food for the main stem. But as the fruit grows, the lateral shoots are gradually removed, starting with the ones closest to the roots.
• In the opposite version, on the contrary, fruits are grown on lateral shoots, leaving one berry on each (for powerful bushes - a maximum of two), and in total - from 4 to 6 specimens per bush. Three leaves are left over the fruits, the rest of the side shoots are pinched. The fruits formed on the main stem are removed.
• The hardest option is to leave no side shoots at all. Up to five fruits are left on the main stem, but so that there are 4-5 leaves between them. It is believed that the nutrition from these leaves should be sufficient for the formation of fruits, especially if the variety does not offer the possibility of producing very large berries.

How to figure out which option to choose? It seems that it makes no sense for an ordinary summer resident to think about this, but just remember a few rules:

• do not leave more than six fruits on the bush;
• on each shoot, leave only one berry in the case of large-fruited varieties and a maximum of two in the case of small-fruited;
• after the watermelon grows to the size of a fist, leave a maximum of 4–5 leaves above it.

Even when the formation of the bush seems complete and the active growth of fruits begins and their mass begins to grow, stepchildren will periodically appear from the axils of the leaves left - additional lateral shoots. It is worth making it a rule to inspect the whips every week and break out the stepsons, preventing them from growing in size. True, at this time it is already undesirable to turn the lashes, so this should be done very carefully. As the fruits grow, plywood or planks should be placed under them so that in a rainy summer they do not rot while lying on damp ground.

All available schemes for the formation of watermelon plants provide for pinching most of the stems and leaving only a few fruits on the bush

How to grow a square watermelon ("Japanese" technology)

A square (more precisely, cubic) watermelon is good only because it will take up less space when storing or transporting the crop. This "miracle" has no other advantages, and it makes little sense to specially try to grow it. But lovers of such exotic can get square striped berries from any favorite variety. To do this, it is necessary to somehow make cubic containers from transparent plastic of the appropriate size.

What does corresponding mean? The diagonal of the side of the cube should be slightly larger than the diameter of the intended watermelon that will grow in this container. In a too cramped dwelling, a watermelon will not really ripen, and in a too spacious one it will not be completely "square": you will get only 6 flattened sides. For the cube to be reusable, it must, of course, be collapsible, and in one of the faces you need to make a hole 3-4 cm in diameter for the escape with the fruit. In addition, numerous smaller holes are needed for ventilation, otherwise the berries in this cube will simply rot.

The future square watermelon spends almost all his life inside a transparent cube.

Then everything is very simple. Once the watermelon has grown to the size of an apple, it is placed in the mold and the usual care continues, observing how it feels. You may have to water a little more, turn over the cube, push the fruit in it while it is small. But as soon as it grows up and starts to rest against the edges, it will take the shape of a cube. Obviously, in a similar way, you can grow not only cubic watermelons, but, for example, pyramidal ones.

Treatment against diseases and pests

Watermelon is a thermophilic plant, but otherwise it is completely unpretentious. With proper care, it rarely gets sick or is attacked by pests. Most often, in amateur melon growing, even no spraying is required; in large farms, of course, preventive treatments are carried out. To prevent possible diseases (rot, spotting, powdery mildew, anthracnose), for example, such well-known drugs as Fundazol or Decis, as well as the traditional Bordeaux liquid, are used. Each of them is capable of destroying certain pathogens, and if necessary, you should carefully study the instructions.

There are few pests in watermelon. The most common are melon aphids, wireworms, various mites. To scare off most of them, it is enough to spray watermelons with products based on garden plants or simple household preparations. So, infusions of tobacco dust or wood ash (with small additions of laundry soap) help well against aphids. Wireworms and leaf-gnawing caterpillars are collected by attracting them to sweet baits placed in small holes: sweetened infusions of garlic, mustard, wormwood, hot pepper, and tomato tops.

Harvesting and storage

When the harvest approaches the ripening stage, the question arises: when to cut watermelons? After all, the fact is that fully ripe berries are very poorly stored, and if you want to eat a delicious watermelon right from the garden, you have to wait until it becomes as tasty as the variety allows. Those watermelons that have not yet reached the so-called first stage of maturity are also poorly stored.

Of course, until you cut a watermelon, you will not know exactly what it is inside: it happens that even the most experienced melon growers make mistakes. On the cut, everything is simple: if the color of the pulp and seeds meets the varietal characteristics, the watermelon is ready. A slightly unripe specimen (the pulp is lighter than normal) could reach full ripeness and gain sugar during storage. But you won't cut the berries in the garden!

There are several signs of ripeness:

• when the watermelon ripens, the matte surface of the peel turns into a shiny one;
• the crust should be firm and not pierced by light pressure with a fingernail;
• in a fully ripe watermelon, the stalk becomes dry;
• a yellow spot where the watermelon touched the ground or litter is a good sign;
• if you knock on a watermelon, then ripening specimens emit a sonorous sound. Muted tones are for fully matured ones and, conversely, for green ones (well, it is not so difficult to distinguish between them).

The most lingering - late-ripening watermelons, but they must also be removed correctly. The berries are cut with a pruner or a sharp knife together with a stalk about 5 cm long.When transported to the storage, the watermelons should lie on a soft bedding, and in the storage itself - also on a bedding, preferably straw, and only in one layer. During storage, they must be periodically inspected, rejecting specimens starting to deteriorate. The best temperature in the storage is from 6 to 8 ° C, the air humidity is not higher than 85%. But even the mildest varieties can rarely last more than three months.

Growing a watermelon at home (in a bucket)

If your home has a sunny windowsill or balcony, you can grow a watermelon on them. True, it requires a lot of free space, and it is almost impossible to get a berry weighing more than 1 kg. The whole process consists of the same stages as usual, only from small seedling pots, plants with a lump of earth are transferred into a large pot, with a volume of at least a bucket, and better - from 15 liters. Of course, you can immediately sow seeds in a bucket (remember to make drainage holes in the bottom).

You can leave no more than two fruits on one plant at home, but after they have successfully tied. And they will tie only under the condition of artificial pollination.

The owner should know how female flowers differ from male ones, and pollen from a male flower (on a thin peduncle) must be pollinated on a female one (with a thick peduncle).

Otherwise, you need to monitor the temperature, soil moisture and give the watermelon more light.

Greenhouse watermelons, the use of nets

In the cold climatic zone, watermelons can only be grown in a greenhouse. There, the beds are prepared in advance, introducing humus and mineral fertilizers into them. Watermelon seedlings are planted when night temperatures in the greenhouse do not drop below 6 ° C, which happens in central Russia around the end of April. Although, of course, in the greenhouse you can sow watermelons and seeds, right in the garden.

Since space in the greenhouse has to be saved, watermelons are planted a little thicker, and trellises are arranged to guide the lashes. Plants are usually planted according to the 50 x 70 cm scheme, and early varieties even plant two plants per hole, directing the shoots in different directions. If the windows and doors in the greenhouse are almost always kept closed, at the right time there may be no flying insects in it, there is no wind there, so artificial pollination has to be carried out.

If the watermelon is grown on a trellis, the fruits do not lie on the ground, but are at a certain height, therefore, as they grow, they may fall. In this regard, when berries grow to the size of an apple, they are often placed in spacious nets of any material, which are firmly tied to the trellis. In this case, the fruits do not lie on the ground and, therefore, do not rot. In addition, when in the net, they are evenly illuminated from all directions, which leads to earlier ripening.

The nets, fixed on the trellis, allow the watermelons not to fall and to ripen better

Growing in a barrel, using a film

Our summer residents are famous experimenters, and in pursuit of saving space, they have invented many unique methods of growing vegetables. So, many vegetables, flowers and even strawberries are often grown in old unusable barrels with a volume of about 200 liters. You can do the same with watermelons. Various debris is placed on the bottom of the barrel, which acts as drainage, and as it decays, fertilizer. Grass, good humus, and then fertile soil are poured on top. Since the metal barrel warms up well in the sun, this substrate always stays warm.

You can immediately sow seeds or plant seedlings in a barrel (depending on the climate), but in any case, at first, the watermelon must be covered with a non-woven material. There is enough space in the barrel for two plants. There is no need for a trellis here, and the growing lashes will hang down, where flowers will appear at the surface of the earth, and then fruits. Watermelon care is normal, but you may need more watering.

Some summer residents cover the planted seedlings with plastic wrap instead of non-woven material. As a temporary measure, this approach can be used, but prolonged exposure of watermelons under the film can lead to root rot. The film can be used both in a regular garden bed and in a greenhouse, but only for a short time. Its only correct use is to cover crops in order to create a greenhouse effect for the emergence of quick shoots. In the future, you can make holes for seedlings and hold the film for a while so that the ground does not cool. But long-term maintenance under polyethylene is destructive for watermelons.

Features of growing watermelons in different regions

Trouble-free cultivation of watermelons is possible only in the south, other regions have their own rules, but all of them are mainly aimed only at creating warm conditions for this berry.

Watermelons in the south of Russia

In the southern regions (starting with Volgograd), only amateurs who want to get very early harvests are engaged in seedlings. In industrial production, watermelons are sown directly in open ground, starting in mid-spring. They are watered only at first, before flowering, and then melon, in fact, grows by itself.

Already starting from the Central Black Earth region, options are possible. Here, cultivation is used both through seedlings and without it, and sowing in the garden is possible already at the beginning of May. Greenhouses are usually not needed.

For the first time, many summer residents cover crops with a film. Some sow watermelons immediately after planting potatoes, in an empty space. Since the second half of June, they are not watered at all, the precipitation is usually enough.

Central regions of Russia, Ural region

In the central regions of the country, and even more so in the Urals, it is possible to get crops in the open field only by seedlings. Seedlings (preferably in peat pots) are planted in the garden at the end of spring, but greenhouse cultivation is also often used, planting seedlings immediately after the May holidays. Only early varieties are used: Ogonyok, Skorik, Sibiryak, and in the event of an unsuccessful summer in the open field, even they may not ripen and be used only for salting.

When planting in greenhouses, many alternate watermelons with cucumbers, although this can hardly be considered reasonable: watermelon is a resident of arid regions, and cucumbers need moist air. But with timely ventilation and proper temperature control, both crops can bring good yields.

Video: growing watermelons in greenhouse conditions

Northwest region, Leningrad region

Until recently, it was believed that it was unrealistic to grow watermelons in the open field in the north-west of the country, but in recent years there have been more and more reports that enthusiasts are able to do this even in Karelia and the Murmansk region. True, luck is variable and depends on how the summer turned out, and the fruits are not very tasty. But in greenhouses, watermelons in the Leningrad Region have been grown for a long time and quite successfully. But even greenhouse cultivation involves the use of only early varieties and requires a lot of effort. Among agronomists, it is believed that the unspoken border of growing watermelons, even in greenhouses, runs along the St. Petersburg - Kirov line: in more northern regions, "the game is not worth it."

Watermelons in the Far East

The heat in the Far Eastern region is quite enough for growing watermelons in the open field, there are even zoned varieties, for example, Ogonyok, Early Kuban, Skorik, although ripening is possible for any other varieties, except for very late ones. Sowing seeds directly into the garden, of course, is risky, so they practice the seedling method.

The only difference between the Far Eastern technology and the traditional one is due to the fact that in the second half of summer there are often long and heavy rains here, as a result of which watermelons can rot. They cope with this simply: they are planted on high ridges, from which excess water flows. The size of the ridges is any convenient for use. In summer cottages, they are made about a meter wide, raised above the furrows to a height of 20-25 cm.

Ukraine

Ukraine is the second largest country in Europe, so the climate is highly dependent on the region. And if in the north of the country it is similar to the one near Moscow, then in the south it is ideal for cultivating melons and gourds. In the south of Ukraine, they do not know the concept of "seedling", they sow watermelons right in the field or garden in late April - early May, and the care for them is minimal. In the north, it is also possible to sow seeds in a garden bed (at the end of spring), and preliminary cultivation of seedlings.

Growing watermelons is not always a lottery: with some experience and luck, normal fruits can be obtained in central Russia. And already at latitudes south of Kursk or Saratov, this striped berry is a traditional inhabitant of the beds of enthusiastic gardeners. You can enjoy delicious sweet fruits right from the garden with some effort, but they are small: the technology of growing melons and gourds is available to every summer resident.

Juicy sweet watermelons are always associated with summer and sun. The crackle of the striped peel under the edge of the knife, the characteristic aroma and the melting, refreshing pulp. What could be better than, forgetting about business for a while, enjoy a slice of ripe berries. Today, you can pamper yourself with watermelon almost at any time of the year. Supermarkets always have these giant berries, however, grown on the other side of the world or in a greenhouse.

The most delicious watermelon is the one that was saturated with the power of the sun and grew not under the film, but on the garden bed.

Many gardeners are wondering how to grow watermelons in the country? As of today, there are all the conditions for this. Thanks to the appearance of early varieties and hybrids, even residents of the Non-Black Earth Region can break their own melons and get a harvest of watermelons. How to grow watermelons outdoors? What kind of care does the culture require and when can the first fruits be harvested?

Preparing watermelon seeds for sowing

Of all the melons and gourds, watermelons have the most difficult seeds to germinate. In order for the seedlings to be friendly and strong, the seeds are first immersed in salt water. This will allow to identify and remove not viable, light specimens, but those that are heavier and sunk to the bottom, use for sowing.

However, this is not enough. Shortly before planting, the seeds are heated for 3-4 hours at temperatures up to 55 ° C or left in the sun for a week in order to disinfect the seed in this way. Then the seeds are soaked in warm water for a day, which will accelerate germination and give the sprouts additional strength.

Planting watermelon seeds

In the Black Earth Region and southern regions, where watermelons are grown in summer cottages and industrial melons, the culture can be planted in open ground with seeds.

The best time for this is when the soil at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12-15 ° C. For sandy and other types of light loose soils, the depth of planting watermelon seeds is 4–8 centimeters, but if the soil is heavy, dense, it is more correct to deepen the seeds by no more than 4–6 cm. And the smaller the seeds, the smaller the grooves for planting them are made. ...

Melons and gourds, especially during the ripening period, require good nutrition, which is provided by the main root system and small roots formed on separate lashes. Therefore, when growing watermelons in open ground, a rather large area is allocated for planting, the size of which depends both on the type of soil and on the variety, as well as on the expected load on the plant.

• If watermelons are sown in rows, gaps of 0.7 to 1.5 meters are left between the bushes. The row spacing in this case should be at least one and a half meters.
• When using a square planting scheme, a distance of 0.7 to 2.1 meters is laid between the plants.

The main thing is that as the planting grows, it does not turn out to be excessively thickened, and all the berries that have set have enough light, moisture and nutrition.

Seedling method of growing watermelon

In the conditions of the middle zone, for example, in non-chernozem areas, as well as during a cold, protracted spring in the southern regions, it is possible to grow watermelons in the open field through seedlings. From the moment of sowing to transplanting young plants into the ground, it usually takes from 25 to 35 days. It is most convenient for sowing to use peat pots with a diameter of about 10 cm, which are filled with a mixture of equal amounts:

• humus;
• turf land;

The seeds are buried in moist soil 3-4 centimeters, after which the pots are left under a film until germination at a temperature of at least 20-25 ° C, only at night the temperature background can drop to 18 ° C.

When sprouts appear above the ground level, the seedlings are transferred to a cooler room. At a temperature of about 17-18 ° C, watermelon seedlings will have to stay for 3 to 4 days, which will allow you to get strong sprouts and prevent them from stretching. Subsequently, temperatures around 22–25 ° C are returned again during the daytime.

Regular watering is carried out with warm water, trying not to get on the leaf plates. A week after sprouting, the seedlings under the roots are fed with a fertilizer containing nitrogen and phosphorus.

Since melons are warm and light-loving crops, well-lit warm rooms or greenhouses are chosen for young watermelon plants, but a week before the seedlings get into the open ground, they must be hardened. To do this, the seedling boxes are exposed to the open air, first for 2–4 hours, then the time is gradually increased. In early June or at the end of May, watermelon seedlings are planted in the beds.

Choosing a site and soil for growing watermelon in the country

To get a good harvest from a watermelon grown in the country, it is important that the site intended for planting:

• was well lit;
• closed from cold winds;
• provided plants with proper nutrition.

The best soil for melons and gourds is light, fertile and loose. It is optimal if on summer cottages there is sandy and sandy loam soil, which has been enriched with humus or other well-rotted organic matter since autumn.

The best precursors for watermelons are legumes, crucifers, including cabbage and radish, as well as potatoes and tomatoes.

Before growing watermelons outdoors, care should be taken to prepare the ridges and fertilize the soil. Per meter of the garden bed in the spring they bring:

• 24–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 40-45 grams;
• 15-25 grams of potash fertilizers.

1-2 plants are planted in pre-moistened wells, located at intervals of 1-1.5 meters, or one peat cup is immersed so that cotyledon leaves remain above the soil level. After planting, the garden bed is mulched with sand, and the plants are sheltered from the sun. They act in a similar way when seedlings appear, if watermelons are grown from seeds in the open field.

In the first week, while the acclimatization process is in progress, watermelons are watered with warm water.

Features of watering and feeding watermelons

It is impossible to grow a watermelon in the country without providing the plant with proper watering and feeding. Without water, it is difficult to talk about the juiciness of sweet berries, but you do not need to overdo it here, otherwise you will not achieve such a beloved sugar pulp. Before the flowers appear, watermelons are watered sparingly, and when the ovary appears on the lashes, more generously.

At a summer cottage for watermelons, it is convenient to use systems with which you can also carry out regular feeding of plants.

When growing watermelons in the country, you need to remember that the culture loves rare but abundant watering, which is extremely necessary in the hot season, in conditions of a shortage of natural moisture. A comfortable soil moisture level for watermelons is 85%. On sandy soil, poorly retaining moisture, the beds are watered more often, and less often on chernozem and clay soils. When the berries are poured and they begin to ripen, watering is carried out less often, and then completely stopped.

The feeding schedule for watermelons grown in the country includes three procedures, during each of which approximately 2 liters of liquid fertilizers should be per plant. A week after planting in the ground, watermelons are watered with a solution of 10 liters of water:

• 40-50 grams of superphosphate;
• 30–35 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 15-20 grams of potassium salts.

When active growth of lashes begins on the plants, the watermelons should receive a second feeding with half the concentration of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers. With the beginning of the formation of ovaries, one more top dressing is carried out, adding a solution under the watermelons growing in the country based on:

• 20-25 grams of ammonium sulfate;
• 10 grams of superphosphate;
• 35 grams of potassium salts.

The nutrient mixture is introduced into furrows arranged in advance at a distance of 15–20 cm from the bushes.

A decrease in the proportion of nitrogen fertilizers is associated with the possibility of accumulation of nitrates in the pulp of berries. Also, this measure will push the plants not to gain green mass, but to ripen.

Caring for watermelons grown in the country

Caring for watermelons growing in the open field consists of:

• in regular loosening of the soil under the plants;
• in watering and feeding melons and gourds;
• in the removal of weeds;
• in the fight against plant pests and diseases;
• in the protection of lashes and ovaries from freezing.

The soil under the plants is loosened to a depth of 7 cm, not only after planting, but also after watering and rains, until the lashes and foliage cover the spaces between individual bushes.

To protect the ovaries and shoots from the wind, it is useful to fasten the lashes to the ground using wire pins or sprinkling the stems with moist soil.

If in the area where watermelons grow, there is a risk of moisture stagnation or not enough light, trellises are built for the plants and, at the beginning of the growth of the lashes, the shoots are transferred from the ground to strong vertical supports. The same technique is useful if there is not enough space in the country for growing watermelons using the traditional melon method. As they grow, the shoots are spread over a trellis or laid out on the ground so that one whip does not obscure the other.

If a watermelon is grown on a trellis in the country, it is recommended to leave only one main lash, on which, after flowering, depending on the variety and climate, from 3 to 6 fruits should be tied. The rest of the shoots are pinched in the early stages of growth, and then, when the ovary reaches the size of a five-ruble coin, the top of the fruiting stem is removed.

When growing watermelons in the open field by the melon method, pinch all the shoots after 3–6 ovaries, remove the stems that appear from the axils of the leaves and female flowers.

It is interesting that the trimmed side lashes can be rooted and also obtained from them, albeit a late and small, but high-quality harvest.

If there is a threat of frost in the area where watermelons grow, the plants are protected with cardboard or special covering material.

When to harvest watermelons?

The ripening ones are easy to recognize by the changed color. With cucumbers and zucchini - the main thing is not to linger with the collection, so that the vegetables do not lose their juiciness and useful properties. And when to pick watermelons, how to distinguish a ripe berry from one that still needs to warm the sides in the sun?

The earliest ripening varieties of watermelons in the central part of Russia can only yield a harvest by mid-August. At the same time, mass harvesting at the summer cottage is not carried out, except for cases when the berries on the melon are threatened with frost. While the warm season lasts, the ripe watermelons are cut from the lashes:

• with a glossy dense bark;
• with a deaf, audible sound when tapped;
• with a smooth peduncle without hairs inherent in the green ovary;
• with dry bracts and whiskers at the base of the leaf.

All these signs of ripeness must be considered in aggregate and only then are watermelons harvested, otherwise it is possible that the cut berry will be unripe.

However, when watermelons are used for storage or transportation, it is best to take the berries a few days before they are fully ripe. Such watermelons, being in a dry warm room, can ripen without losing any useful properties, or taste and aroma. But for obtaining seeds, only watermelons are suitable, harvested in a fully ripe state.

Growing watermelons in the middle lane - video

If we talk about the middle lane, then watermelons here (as well as some other crops - for example, melon) are preferable to grow through seedlings. In reality, there is nothing complicated in this process, the main thing is to know when to plant watermelons for seedlings and how to do it correctly. Today we will consider two methods at once, as well as provide detailed step-by-step instructions. But let's start with the preparatory activities.

In most cases, watermelons are planted in open soil at the age of 30 days. And in view of the fact that the seeds of this culture germinate for a long time, sowing must be carried out in mid or late April.

What will be required in the work?

For the correct sowing of watermelon seeds and the cultivation of high-quality seedlings, be sure to prepare:

• seed material;
• cling film;
• soil mixture;
• plastic containers with a diameter of 10 cm (in the second method, peat pots will be used);
• gauze;
• salt;
• potassium permanganate;
• a glass of water.

Note! The seeding techniques described below are great for melon as well as watermelon.

Potassium permanganate prices

potassium permanganate

How to choose the right seeds

Due to the fact that watermelon is an atypical crop for the middle lane, it is necessary to choose seeds with extreme caution.

Remember that only early-ripening varieties are suitable for such conditions, the growing season of which ranges from 70-90 days.

And if we take into account that the seeds are sown for seedlings quite late (in mid or late April, as we have already found out), then it is quite obvious that watermelons should ripen before the cold weather sets in. In addition, you can purchase seeds of hybrids that are more adapted to unfavorable climatic conditions.

Prices for watermelon seeds

watermelon seeds

When choosing seeds, give preference to those that were harvested 2 or 3 years ago. The fact is that crops with male flowers will grow from fresher seeds, while the fruits are formed from female flowers.

First, you need to determine which of the seeds are suitable for sowing seedlings. To do this, prepare a solution of sodium chloride (4-5 g for every 100 ml of water) and immerse the seed in it for a few minutes.

Seeds that have settled to the bottom as a result of the procedure, rinse thoroughly with water and dry. It is convenient to use a small gauze bag and a glass of clean water for washing.

To stimulate the appearance of female flowers, it is recommended to warm the seed at a temperature of about + 60 ° C for 2-3 hours. After that, dress the seeds in a 1% potassium permanganate solution for about half an hour.

Now you can proceed to the last stage of preparation - soak the seed before hatching in order to speed up the emergence of seedlings. To do this, wrap the seeds in a wet cloth and place them in a warm place (the air temperature should be within + 25-30 ° С). As a rule, germination takes no more than 5-6 days.

Note! Throughout this time, regularly rinse the seeds with running water, otherwise they may sour. And when the pecking begins, you can also carry out hardening.

How to harden germinated seeds? Place them in the refrigerator for 12 hours, then - for the same time - in a warm place. The cycle must be repeated 2 or 3 times. After the root length reaches 1-1.5 cm, you can proceed directly to sowing in one of the two ways described below.

Marigolds, black shaves, lights - this is what the people call tagetes. The culture is distinguished by its rapid growth and unpretentious care, and therefore enjoys considerable popularity. Read about when to sow marigolds for seedlings and how to do it correctly.

Method one. Traditional cultivation of watermelon seedlings

The process consists of several simple steps, we will consider the features of each of them in more detail.

First, prepare the soil mixture for sowing. It is important that it is prepared correctly! For melons, which include watermelon, the following recipe is preferable: 1 part of sod soil and 3 parts of humus (the components must be mixed well). Although there is another option for preparing the substrate - 0.5 parts of humus, 1 part of sawdust and 3 parts of low-lying peat.

Also, don't forget about suitable containers. It is advisable to use separate pots for this - this will not damage the roots of plants during a dive or transplant into the ground. The optimum diameter of the pots is about 10 cm. Each will grow 1-2 plants.

Now you can start sowing pre-prepared seeds. Fill suitable pots with the soil mixture halfway, then place the seeds (1-2 in each) there to a depth of about 4-5 cm. Later, as you grow, you will add fresh substrate.

Note! Do not forget to pre-moisten the soil before sowing (it is convenient to do this with a spray gun). Also, for sowing seeds in a moistened substrate, you need to make holes using a pencil or stick.

Full-fledged watermelon seedlings will appear in about 30-40 days. To help the seeds germinate, cover the containers with the crops with cling film and place in a warm place (the air temperature should be about + 23-25 ​​° C).

Video - How to sow watermelons for seedlings

Method two. Using peat pots

This method is good because such pots, as well as, themselves already contain the nutrients necessary for plants. As for the timing of sowing and preparation of seed, they in this case are the same as in the previous method.

For the convenience of users, instructions for sowing watermelon seeds are given in the form of a table.

Table. Sowing watermelon seeds for seedlings in peat pots.

Steps, photo	Description of actions
	First, prepare the soil mixture according to one of the recipes described above. Mix all ingredients thoroughly.
	Prepare and germinate watermelon seeds (here, too, everything is unchanged). When the root is long enough, that is, it grows to 1-1.5 cm, proceed directly to sowing.
	Take peat pots of the above diameter, fill them with the prepared substrate about 3⁄4 full. Then place the sprouted seeds in the pots.
	Sprinkle the crops with a layer of soil mixture about 2-3 cm thick. Compact slightly, otherwise the seeds may become bare during watering.
	Water the crops carefully. We advise you to place the peat pots in plastic containers of a suitable size - this way the walls will not dry too quickly, remaining permanently damp.

Peat pots prices

peat pots

Post-seedling care

Due to the fact that sowing is carried out in the middle of spring, additional illumination of the plants is not required in this case. But crops still need to be placed in the brightest place in your home. The ideal option is the southern window sill. It will be even better if you transfer the seedlings to a glazed loggia (but in this case, you need to especially carefully monitor the temperature regime).

What should be the temperature when growing seedlings? At first - even before the formation of the first shoots - the temperature should be within + 25-27 ° С. Later, when shoots have already appeared, it should be somewhere between + 18-20 ° С (at night) and + 20-25 ° С (during the day). As for watering crops, it is recommended to use exclusively warm water for this.

10 days after the first shoots appear, top dressing should be applied in the form of a solution of mineral seedling fertilizer (such as "Sotka", "Solution", others). After the same time, top dressing is repeated.

Note! Watering and fertilizing should be done exclusively at the root! If moisture does get on the leaves, wipe everything off immediately using a paper towel. When at least 4 true leaves appear, the seedlings - if weather conditions allow it - can be transplanted to the site.

It should also be noted that when growing seedlings of this culture, the pots should be placed in such a way that the leaves of neighboring plants do not touch each other.

Solution prices

Solution

Features of transplanting into open soil

First you need to decide on the timing of planting seedlings in the ground. For watermelons, this is the second decade of June, that is, the time when the threat of frost has already passed completely. By the way, if you want to plant seedlings earlier, after about 3 weeks after germination, you can use shelters.

First of all, check if the ground has warmed up enough. For transplanting watermelon seedlings, the optimal temperature is considered to be between + 15-18 ° C. If you need to warm up the bed faster, you can cover it with black plastic wrap.

Note! The watermelon is characterized by a fairly deep root system, and therefore the site chosen for planting seedlings must be dug into the bayonet of a shovel. Also add compost or humus (10 l), wood ash (200 g) and complex mineral fertilizer (about 40-50 g) for each square meter of the area. Then re-dig.

Transplanting seedlings in peat pots

Prepare holes - about 2 for each square meter. Carefully remove the top of the peat pot, then place the plant in the hole.

Fill the hole with water, then backfill with soil.

Try not to deepen the root collar. Ideally, the earthen lump with which the seedlings are transplanted should be somewhere 1 cm above the soil surface. Until the real warmth and flowering of watermelons come, it is advisable to cover the plantings with some covering material (for example, spunbond).

Video - Rules for growing watermelons