We decide how to connect the thermostat to the gas boiler of autonomous heating. Connecting the thermostat to a warm floor Wiring diagram room temperature controller

It has long since ceased to be a curiosity. Many owners of houses and apartments are increasingly resorting to this method of space heating, planning its use in conjunction with classical system heating or even instead. There are many advantages - this is efficiency, and special comfort, and optimal distribution of heat in the volume of the room.

If we compare the two main types of "warm floors", and, then the second one is much simpler and cheaper to arrange, easier to set up and operate. Many are put off by the high cost of electricity. But this criterion is also rather conditional, if the apartment or house is well insulated, and the operation of the heating system is well organized. The function of controlling the electric "warm floor" is assigned to a special device - a thermostat. He is obligatory element system, and the level of created comfort and economic operation.

Installing such a “brain” of the system is not at all so difficult task. Let's figure out how to connect a warm floor to a thermostat.

Why do you need thermoregulation of the "warm floor"?

Just a few words about the importance of a high-quality, correctly functioning electric floor heating control system.

Such a heating system cannot simply be connected to the network and operated according to the principle “the warmer the better”. The surface heating temperature is always strictly limited, and usually does not exceed a maximum of +27 degrees in residential premises. It can be somewhat higher in bathrooms and showers, in corridors or hallways, but also within + 30 ÷ 33 degrees. And why?

Firstly, the level of comfortable perception of heat coming from below for a person’s legs just lies in the range of up to 25 ÷ 27 degrees. With more high temperatures, especially those exceeding the normal temperature of the human body, begins to clearly "bake". And the feeling of pleasant warmth is replaced by obvious discomfort.

Secondly, excessive heating has a negative effect on top coat gender. Even those of its varieties that are designed for operation in combination with a heating system have upper limits allowable temperatures. Otherwise, deformation processes may begin due to excessive linear expansion. There are shrinkage, divergence of seams, breakage of lock joints and other unpleasant phenomena.

Finally, the issue of rational spending of expensive electrical energy. In a well-distant "warm floor" system, with high-quality thermal insulation of the ceiling and the entire room as a whole, the heating elements work for a very limited time. An example is shown in the diagram below.

Not only that, the total consumption, even in such a continuous mode of operation, is very small. Savings are also achieved by fine-tuning the modes. That is, heating will be carried out exactly when it is really needed.

All these control functions are taken over by a special device - a thermostat.

Varieties of thermostats for electric "warm floors"

Temperature controllers are compact devices designed for installation in a standard socket (built-in models) or directly on the wall (overhead). To work in underfloor heating systems, they must be equipped with a temperature sensor with a signal cable. Many thermostats also have a built-in temperature sensor that monitors the temperature of the air in the room. Such models are usually used when the system electric heating becomes the main heat source. But they always provide for the possibility of connecting an external temperature sensor and using the “on the floor” mode of operation.

Underfloor heating prices

warm floor

The whole variety of modern temperature controllers can be divided into three groups:

Electromechanical devices are the simplest in design and use. And, of course, the most inexpensive in terms of cost.

All controls of such devices are usually limited to the power key and the setting wheel with a printed temperature scale. A simple indication is provided - an LED that indicates whether the power to the heating elements is currently on.

The advantages of such devices are simplicity and affordable price. But insertion accuracy temperature regime can "limp" - however, this is quickly solved by the user on an intuitive level. And the second drawback, more important, can be considered the lack of the possibility of programming operating modes. That is, it will not be possible to achieve a sensitive saving in energy consumption with an electromechanical thermostat.

The second group is electronic devices equipped with a digital display and buttons (sensors) for accurately setting the required heating temperature.

Such devices are certainly more convenient to use, but their functionality is not much different from electromechanical ones. Neither programming capabilities nor non-volatile memory not provided. Apparently, this circumstance just limits their popularity. They are already much more expensive than their electromechanical "brothers". But to achieve real energy savings with them is also not possible.

The third group is already "smart" thermostats, the functionality of which includes many options. They usually have a built-in temperature sensor - it is possible to switch control modes "by floor" and "by air". But most importantly, the thermostat can be programmed for several operating modes both by time during the day and by day, taking into account weekdays and weekends.

For example, the floor warms up in the morning when the owners wake up and remains in this state until they leave for work (study). During the day, the system will simply maintain the minimum required temperature value - there is no need to waste energy in vain. But by the time the residents come home, the most comfortable conditions will be created again.

Several such cycles can be programmed during the day. And taking into account the schedule of their work, pre-arrange the days off when the heating modes will be different. There is always an opportunity to correct the given settings if there have been certain changes in the way of life of the family. Or just temporarily switch to manual mode. And the programmed modes will be saved in the memory of the device, and you can return to them at any time.

Modern models, in addition, can be equipped with remote control from the remote control, or even remotely, via Internet or GSM communication channels.

Most of the models on sale are designed to control the "warm floor" system in one room. But if conditions allow, then you can purchase a two-channel device. It is able to independently control heating in adjacent rooms. It is equipped with two remote temperature sensors, and its terminals allow you to connect two heating circuits from one supplied power line.

You can also add that in addition to built-in and overhead devices, thermostats are also produced with installation on a DIN rail.

Prices for thermostats

floor heating thermostat

But there is no particular convenience for operation in an apartment or house. Unless - there is no need to pull the power line to the location of the thermostat - it is already in the distribution cabinet. But more problems with laying a signal cable from a temperature sensor and "cold ends" from a heating cable or mat. So the gain is doubtful. And all room regulators have a fairly neat design. So they will not spoil the interior - they fit perfectly, for example, into groups or switches.

General principles for connecting thermostats to an electric underfloor heating

The best place for the thermostat

I place this device on the wall in a place convenient for the user - so that setting the modes and visual control does not cause difficulties. True, there are several rules-recommendations that should be followed:

The thermostat should not be placed in the traditional draft path. Do not put it on sections of the wall that receive direct sunlight from the window. This rule will be even more relevant if the device is equipped with a built-in temperature sensor. That is, it is possible to operate the system with an estimate of the temperature "by air".
As a rule, these devices are not located on the outer walls, that is, in contact with the street.
The height of the device above the floor level is at least 400 mm. The upper limit is not regulated. But raising the thermostat above the line of sight of an average person is simply unwise.
If a warm floor is installed in a room with high humidity(bathroom, shower, bath, etc.), then the thermostat should be taken out to the next room for safety reasons. The housings of most devices do not have the proper class of protection against direct contact with water splashes and from the effects of steam.
The location of the temperature controller on the wall may, to a certain extent, also depend on the length of the standard signal cable of the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor itself should be located at least 500 mm from the wall, in the center between adjacent turns of the heating cable. An exception is film "warm floors", in which the head of the temperature sensor must fall on the black carbon heating strip, also in its center and at the same distance from the wall.

For a built-in thermostat (in the diagram - item 1), a socket is cut out in the wall for a conventional socket box with a diameter of 68 mm. True, most masters recommend using not a standard socket box with a depth of 45 mm, but with an increased depth of 60 mm. This is to ensure that the thermostat housing and all groups of wires connected to the terminals fit seamlessly into it.

A dedicated power line must be connected to this socket, taking into account the power of the planned load. As a rule, for electric "warm floors" a cable with a core cross section of 2.5 mm² is enough, which can easily withstand a load of up to 3.5 kW. The line must be protected in switchboard at 16 amps. (Meaning, of course, copper wires- aluminum for the home has long been "outlawed").

From the socket, a groove is cut vertically to the floor (pos. 2). It will accommodate "cold ends" connected through couplings (pos. 3) to the heating cable or mats, and the cable of the temperature sensor. The depth and width of the groove is usually made such that two corrugated tubes with a diameter of 10 mm fit in it. One of them will house power wires - "cold ends", simply for security reasons. And the second tube is for the temperature sensor, and it goes from the wall to the floor (item 4) up to the point of its installation.

This installation is explained by the fact that temperature sensors fail from time to time. And in order to be able to replace it, it is placed in the pipe. Its cable is quite rigid, and it can be pushed a considerable length in this channel.

On the floor, a tube with a temperature sensor is located openly if it is planned to fill the screed with a thickness of 35 ÷ 50 mm. It turns out that the sensor will control the heating temperature of this concrete monolith, which plays the role of an effective heat accumulator. In those cases where directly heating mat tiles will be laid (some types of systems require this method of installation), for and a streak is cut into the floor surface.

The corrugated tube is not used only with a film electric "warm floor". There is no screed, that is, the replacement of a failed sensor can be carried out by dismantling the section of the floor covering. Yes, and the temperature readings are taken here in a slightly different way - directly from the heating element. This will be dismantled below.

The end of the corrugated tube, so that the solution does not get into it during the pouring of the screed, is jammed with a cork (pos. 5). The plug can be included in the kit, or it can be made independently, for example, from several layers of waterproof tape.

The illustration below shows the thermostat kit. In addition to the temperature sensor, it includes not only a piece of corrugated pipe, but also a plug to it.

And, pay attention to one interesting nuance. The manufacturer completes the set with a brass plug. It is in it that the head of the temperature sensor, that is, the temperature-sensitive element itself, should enter. Due to the high thermal conductivity of the metal, the readings that the sensor will take are more correct in this case.

Thermostat connection diagram

Any thermostat, if it was purchased in a store, is accompanied by detailed instruction by its connection. But with the switching of wires at the terminals of the device, it is quite possible to figure it out yourself, focusing on the marking of the contacts. Despite the wide variety of models, most retain approximately the same scheme. So let's look at it with an example.

The first pair of contacts (1 and 2) is for connecting the supply voltage. Please note - for the correct operation of the thermostat is important correct installation phase (L) and zero (N). That's why it's important to color-code the wires when wiring - you'll never get confused.
The second pair (3 and 4) is for connecting the load, that is heating elements"warm floor". Usually, the value of the maximum allowable current is also indicated - in this case it is 16 amperes.
The third pair of contacts (6 and 7) is for connecting wires of the temperature sensor signal cable. The location of the conductors does not matter here. And there is also a signature that speaks about the parameters of the temperature sensor - its resistance at a temperature of +25 ° C is 10 kOhm.

By the way, it will never be superfluous to check with an ohmmeter that the specified resistance is real before installation. If a match is obtained (± 5-10%), then the sensor is working, and it can be safely installed in place. If the value obtained is clearly different, then this may indicate a malfunction of the sensor. And it is better to replace it immediately so that you do not have to mess with it later.

So, there is no wisdom, everything is simple. But when carrying out switching, care is still needed special.

A common mistake of inexperienced users is that the power wires are installed on the load connection terminals. After applying voltage, the thermostat with a probability close to 100% will fail.

Before connecting, it never hurts to check the instructions and the applied symbols again. The fact is that some models of thermostats have a different terminal arrangement. In particular, first two zeros, power and load, are located nearby, and then two phase contacts in the same order. And if you apply the "stereotypical" connection diagram shown above, this will mean a guaranteed short circuit.

Where to put the ground wire?

Infrequently, but there are models of thermostats in which a separate terminal is allocated for connecting the ground wire and the shielding braid of the heating cable.

But more often they do it differently. The green-yellow conductor of the power cable is connected to the shielding braid through a terminal or crimp sleeve directly to each other, directly. And they place this connection in the space of the socket.

AT modern models temperature controllers, for example, with remote and remote control, there may be additional terminals for connecting communication channels or other devices. This option is not considered, as it is somewhat beyond the scope of our article. In such a case, you should clearly follow the attached instructions. Or, if there is no experience of such robots, it is better to invite a specialist.

Examples of connecting a floor heating thermostat - step by step

This section of the article discusses three examples, each of which has its own characteristics.

Test connection of thermostat RTC 70.26

This example was chosen because such a thermostat is one of the most, perhaps, mass models. When installing it, there are a number of nuances that you should know in advance. Trial switching is shown to check the operability of the device, that is, so far without a permanent installation in the socket. But well, the operation of the thermostat is very clearly demonstrated.

Illustration
	So, a very popular model due to its cost (less than 1000 rubles) and sufficient reliability and unpretentiousness is the RTC 70.26. A trial connection and function check will be carried out. An incandescent lamp will act as a connected load (it stands on the table).
	Rear view - terminals for connecting pairs of wires are located on the case. The mounting frame with arcuate slots is clearly visible - for mounting the thermostat in a standard socket box.
	A feature of this model, and very inconvenient - before disassembling the thermostat, it is necessary to remove the adjusting wheel. It has to be hooked with a screwdriver and moved along the axis progressively upwards.
	A screw is hidden under the wheel, which fixes the cover on the device body. It is shown in the photo with a screwdriver. The right screw does not need to be touched - this is just a wheel rotation limiter.
	After unscrewing the screw, the cover is carefully removed by a progressive upward movement.
	Here it is - a nuance. The wheel rotates on a plastic axle, which, after removing the cover, is very easy to remove from its seat. Care must be taken because: - the axis can be broken by a careless movement; - such small parts have harmful property fall out and roll into the most hard-to-reach places so that they are not easy to find. So it is better to immediately carefully pull it out yourself and put it in a safe place.
	Frame with mounting holes. Naturally, in a real installation, one should be installed first - all the wires will pass through its window ...
	... and then the thermostat itself will be superimposed on top of it. As you can clearly see, their mounting holes match.
	Let's move on to switching. First you need to loosen the screws in all the terminals that will be used. When working with the terminals, use a screwdriver with a narrow (3 mm) sting so as not to damage the plastic edges of the round sockets.
	The power supply wires are connected to terminals 1 and 2. Important - do not forget to comply correct location zero and phase - this is indicated on the case near each of the terminals. In this case, just to test the thermostat, a piece of cable with a mains plug is connected, which, when tested, will be plugged into the outlet.
	Terminals 3 and 4 are connected to the wires going to the load. Instead of a warm floor circuit, an incandescent lamp will be used for the test.
	Finally, the ends of the temperature sensor signal cable are installed and clamped into terminals 6 and 7. Their relative position does not matter.
	Switching completed. Please note that the wires suitable for the terminals can be multi-wire, and directly clamping their stripped ends is undesirable, since the contact may turn out to be initially unreliable, and even weaken over time. All such wires are immediately put on terminal lugs and crimped. The exception is the copper wires of the power line, if they are solid. But if a stranded wire is also used there (for example, PVA 3 × 2.5), then the tips are definitely needed.
	Imagine that the thermostat is connected, installed in the socket, and it needs to be assembled.
	First, a plastic axle is carefully inserted into its socket. It is necessary to feel that its lower slot has entered the existing connection on the board.
	After that, the top cover is put on. The switch key must enter its window, the axis must pass through the hole.
	Next, the cover is fixed with a screw. The plastic is quite brittle, so you should not try to tighten the screw tightly - this way you can achieve a crack or even a break under the head.
	Gently put on the axle and slide the temperature setting wheel all the way down. You can immediately check the correctness of its installation - the risk printed on it should move in the range of the applied scale.
	Everything is ready for testing. The power wire is connected to the network. The start key switches to the upper position - "on".
	Nothing happens - there is no power to the load. But this is because the temperature is set to only 10 degrees on the regulator, and the room is clearly more. It is clear that the temperature sensor does not give a command to turn on.
	Let's try to move the slider but the mark of 30 degrees. Yes, the light turned on, that is, the thermostat turned on the power to the load, which it should have done!
	Let's start to gradually reduce the value of the set temperature on the regulator. When the level is lower than the actual temperature in the room, the thermostat will turn off - heating is not required. It is obvious that the device works correctly.

You can modify the experiment a little. Set the same heating level to 30 degrees, and then hold the head of the temperature sensor in your palm. Since the human body temperature is higher, when the heating level reaches more than 30 degrees, the thermostat must turn off the power.

But all this was shown more for a better understanding of the principle of connection and operation of the thermostat. And now we need to look at the process of installing this device, as they say, in place.

Film underfloor heating prices

underfloor heating film

Switching and installation of an electronic temperature controller in a regular place

AT this example the process of connecting and installing an electric cable "warm floor" thermostat is shown. The heating elements have been laid and filled with screed for a long time. On the walls of the room, even the decoration has already been completed. The socket box is walled in, and all the cables and wires necessary for connection are brought into it.

Naturally, before starting work, you should once again check whether the power supply is de-energized. warm floor power line - the machine must be turned off.

The thermostat "DEVIreg Touch" of electronic type is used, the removable cover of which is simultaneously a touch-sensitive digital display. It is mounted on the body with snaps, while simultaneously commuting with it through the existing connector.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	The socket box opens if it was covered for the duration of the finish. The wires are brought out. So, there are three types of wires - a single-core copper power cable VVG 3 × 2.5, a two-core heating cable in a shielding braid and a temperature sensor signal cable.
	All wires are cut so that they come out of the socket beyond the wall level by 80 ÷ 100 mm - this is enough.
	To begin with, it is best to immediately deal with grounding. It is necessary to connect the green-yellow wire of the power cable to the copper shielding braid of the heating cable. The connection will be made by the Wago terminal. Since the braid consists of many thin wires, for a quality connection in the terminal, it must be tinned.
	The end of the braid is neatly twisted tightly, treated with flux, and then covered with a thin layer of solder.
	The green/yellow ground wire end of the power cable is stripped. It's best to do this special tool- insulation stripper.
	Then both prepared conductors are alternately inserted and clamped in the Wago terminal.
	After that, the wires are carefully bent, and this connecting node is removed to the socket.
	The terminal should be located at the very bottom of the socket. As already mentioned, for a thermostat it is better to use an increased depth socket. With switching of grounding it is finished.
	The remaining wires are being prepared for connection. Their ends are cleaned from insulation, by about 8 ÷ 10 mm.
	Since the "cold ends" of the heating cable have a multi-wire structure, for a quality connection in the screw terminals of the thermostat, they should be "put on" in crimped lugs.
	The solid wires of the VVG power cable will be perfectly clamped in the terminal without any lugs. The temperature sensor wires may have terminal lugs installed at the factory. However, just here there is practically no load, so you can get by with tinning the tips - this will be enough. If there are tips of the desired diameter, you can put them. The main thing is that the end of the wires is not fluffy, so that good contact is ensured.
	If all the wires are prepared, you can proceed to their switching. The order in which the pairs are connected does not matter. In this example, the wizard started by connecting the temperature sensor cable. As mentioned earlier, the relative position of the temperature sensor wires in the terminals (NTS) is not regulated. The wires are inserted into the terminals and tightened with screws. By applying a pulling force, the reliability of their fixation is checked.
	Further, the "cold ends" of the heating cable, dressed in tips, are brought into the terminals and then tightened. Here, the color marking of the conductors is already observed. Please note: just such an example is shown, when the power and heating cable wires are installed “in a crossover” - two phases side by side, and then two zeros. It is important to be very careful about this, focusing on the applied designations.
	After that, the power wires are also inserted into their terminals and clamped, also in strict accordance with the color marking and applied designations.
	All wires are connected. You can go through again to be sure - check the quality of the tightening of the contacts on all terminals.
	Now the thermostat housing must be carefully inserted into the socket. In order not to interfere with the wires, which have a fairly significant rigidity, proceed as follows. First, the device is taken as shown in the illustration.
	Then gently turn it up so that all the wires below get the first uniform bend.
	Thereafter index fingers on both sides press the wires to back side thermostat housing...
	... and the device itself is rotated a little back.
	The result should be such a zigzag bend of all wires ...
	... and the thermostat will easily fit into the socket.
	If necessary, it is trimmed horizontally using the building level ...
	... and then fixed to the socket with self-tapping screws. Masters recommend using not the self-tapping screws that come with the kit, but somewhat longer, 25 or 30 mm - this will be more reliable. After baiting the screws, the evenness of the installation is again checked - and then they are completely tightened.
	Everything, the device case is installed, it remains to attach the front touch panel to it. There are no difficulties here - it is installed in place and gently sags forward until the latches work.
	Everything, the thermostat is installed. If conditions allow, you can turn on the power and conduct a test run of the "warm floor" system. Well, then - setting up and programming the device, in accordance with the instruction manual attached to it.

It can be added that the start-up of the “warm floor” system, if the heaters are covered with a screed, can only be carried out after it has fully gained strength. It is absolutely unacceptable to "stimulate" the hardening and maturation of concrete by turning on the heating. And even after the complete readiness of the screed and the floor covering, the launch is still not carried out at once at the rated power. It is necessary to start, for example, with heating to 15 degrees, and then increase the temperature by 5 degrees daily until the planned mode is reached. This achieves the most smooth adaptation of all the components of the "warm floor pie" to normal operation at elevated temperatures.

Connecting the thermostat to the film "warm floor"

Finally, in the third example, the connection of the thermostat to the floor heating system with infrared film elements is dismantled. There are differences in the installation of the temperature sensor, and the thermostat itself will not be installed on the main wall, but on a hard lining (MDF lining).

The example shows personal experience the work of the author of this article.

Illustration	Brief description of the operations performed
	For a warm floor in this example, 3 running meters film heater "Teplonog" of South Korean production. Specific power - 220 W / m². that is, with a film width of 500 mm, the total maximum power of the entire floor heating system will be only 330 watts. Laying will be carried out in small room private house. The room is a former nursery. The former because the daughter has grown to student age.
	More in this case is not required. "Heat floor" is created solely to increase the level of comfort, and not to replace the existing water heating system. It is planned to place heaters in two lines. Longer, two-meter (pos.4) captures the area from front door through the center of the room to desk(pos.2). The second, meter section (pos.3) will be located along the bed (pos.1). After installing the heating system, the floor will be covered with laminate.
	A power cable was laid from a dedicated machine located in an adjacent room. I had to break through the wall and remove part of the cladding to let the wires through. It was decided to leave a high shelf on the left wall - it is behind its lining made of MDF-lining that the power wire will pass, and the thermostat with a parallel-connected socket will be located in the area shown by the blue arrow. Film heaters do not require connection to ground, therefore, PVA 2 × 1.5 wires are used. With such a low power of heaters and with the expectation that the socket is intended for charging gadgets, this is quite enough. For the future installation of a thermostat and an outlet, two cladding panels- in them, after a slight alteration, windows will be cut out for installing socket boxes.
	Carefully leveled with OSB sheets, the floor surface is covered with a foil substrate made of polyethylene foam. All joints are sealed with foil tape. The illustration clearly shows the area where the thermostat will be installed. The cladding panels are shortened - a small niche-shelf will be equipped there. Windows are cut out in the panels and socket boxes are installed (as for drywall - with presser feet at the back). Immediately installed socket, connected to the power cable. A piece of cable goes from it with a loop, which will be connected to the thermostat. The installation height of the socket boxes in this case was 450 mm, with an acceptable minimum of 400 mm. A small arched window is cut out under the panel with a socket (shown by an arrow) - the wires of the "warm floor" and the temperature sensor will pass through it.
	The switching of heating film elements will be carried out according to the following scheme: 1 - temperature sensor; 2 - points of connection to the busbars of phase wires; 3 - points of connection of neutral wires; 4 - points of isolation of the remaining unused cut ends of the tires. All wires do not intersect anywhere and converge at one point - they must pass through the carved arched window.
	The heating film is cut into two fragments, which are laid on the places intended for them. The "copper" side of the tires should face down.
	Along the long edges, the heaters are fixed to the floor surface with strips of building tape.
	First of all, the cut ends of the tires, which will not be involved in switching, are insulated. For this, special rubber-bitumen-based pads are used, which came with the film. On one side, the protective paper backing is removed ...
	... then the insulating strip is glued from below to the busbar ...
	... bent over and crimped tightly. And so - at all four points in accordance with the scheme.
	So that the places of insulation do not protrude upward above the surface of the film, a neat window is cut out in the foil substrate exactly along the contour of the insulating lining.
	Further, the switching of the supply of film heaters begins. For this, wires are used, which are also included in the "warm floor" kit.
	Special terminal contacts are inserted into the busbar cuts. To do this, you can slightly push the gap between the two layers of film with a screwdriver.
	The upper lobe of the contact is inserted into this slot ...
	... and the bottom one is simply pressed with a finger at first ...
	... and then finally crimped with pliers. And so - at all points, according to the diagram, where the wires will be connected.
	Then, again, strictly according to the scheme, wires are connected to these terminals. Their ends, stripped of insulation, are inserted into the terminal, and then its petals are successively crimped with pliers.
	After the terminal is crimped, it is insulated with the same rubber-bitumen pads. Only one sticks on the bottom as shown in the illustration...
	... and the second one is opposite - from above. After careful compression, a neat insulating "cocoon" is obtained.
	Under it, a window is also cut out in a foil substrate. In addition, in order to “drown” the wire, a groove is cut out under it. Similarly, operations are repeated at all points of connection of wires, according to the scheme.
	It's time to install the thermostat. It will be located in the center of the black heating strip, pressed against it from below (the place is shown by an arrow).
	Reliable fixation is provided by a strip of reinforced construction tape.
	A groove is cut in the substrate for the signal cable, and for the head of the temperature sensor, even a small recess had to be made in the plywood flooring.
	The switching of the heaters is over, all the wires converge at one point - they dive under the lining.
	And film heaters are completely around the perimeter, and all grooves with laid wires are “sealed” with strips of construction tape.
	The wires are wound up behind the lining, and you can proceed with the installation of the thermostat.
	The wires are stranded, so crimp terminal lugs were installed on all stripped ends.
	The wires are passed through the windows cut out in the socket ...
	... and then the panel with the socket box is installed in its place and finally fixed there.
	Such a thermostat will be installed, of an electronic type with the possibility of weekly programming of the “warm floor” operating modes.
	First of all, it needs to be disassembled.
	First, the facing frame is removed - it is fastened with latches, and it is easy to dismantle it. And the thermostat itself must be removed from the metal caliper. It is fixed on it with a movable metal bracket - it is clearly visible in the photograph.
	This bracket is moved upwards with a screwdriver and enters from the ground with a support.
	Caliper and thermostat after disassembly.
	The caliper is immediately put in place - fastened with screws to the socket. Wires run through it.
	The location of the terminals on the thermostat is nothing special, the standard scheme.
	First of all, the contacts of the temperature sensor cable are connected.
	Then - the load wires, that is, coming from the heating film elements. And finally, the wires of the power cable - their connection simply did not get into the frame.
	Before the final installation of the thermostat in place, it makes sense to check the performance of the assembled system.
	To do this, the machine turns on, that is, power is supplied, and the inscription “Off” appears on the display of the thermostat. So far everything is going according to plan.
	The thermostat turns on. But the heating does not start, since the work was carried out in the summer, in hot weather, and the factory presets on the device are 24 degrees. On the right side of the screen, there are real temperature readings on the temperature sensor, and this is more than 28 degrees. Therefore, it is necessary for the experiment to temporarily set the heating level to 33 degrees. And the “warm floor” works instantly - the heating icon appears on the indicator (indicated by an arrow), and bare feet feel a rapid rise in temperature on the floor. Everything is working!
	You can turn off the system, just in case - temporarily de-energize it and finally install the thermostat. Installing it is no longer difficult - it is attached to the caliper, and then a decorative frame is installed. After that, the power of this line was turned on again. The thermostat will be in the off position before the cold weather, but the socket may well be used for its intended purpose.
	And finally, to complete this example logically, it shows what happened after the laminate flooring and the final finishing of the thermostat installation area.

* * * * * * *

So, in the publication, examples of installing an electric floor heating thermostat were considered in detail. Only moments related to the fine tuning and programming of such devices fell out of sight. But this is done on purpose so as not to cause confusion. Just at different models may have their own characteristics, and there are no universal "recipes". Therefore, here you will have to strictly follow the instructions attached to the thermostat. Or search for more detailed description performed operations on programming on the Internet.

As an example, we can recommend watching a detailed video instruction posted on YouTube by one of the users. By the way, the fine tuning of the model is demonstrated, which almost completely coincides with the one shown in the last installation example.

Video: Setting up a programmable thermostat of the E51 series

In the presence of an infrared heater, the thermostat performs the functions of controlling the set temperature parameters for a certain time. With it, you can schedule the preheating of the room, minimize the likelihood of a fire and create a comfortable and cozy atmosphere in the house. To do this, it is enough to know how to connect the thermostat to an infrared heater.

What is a thermostat, purpose, principle of operation

The functioning of the thermostat is based on the cyclic process of closing and opening the electrical circuit. The regulation of the microclimate by this parameter is based on the signals sent by the temperature sensor. Let's look at this process in more detail:

When the set temperature threshold is reached, the resistance of the internal sensor increases.
The thermostat opens the electrical circuit.
When the sensor cools down, the resistance rises again.
The thermostat starts up again, but it no longer opens, but closes the electrical circuit.

This cycle continues for a predetermined time and allows you to talk about automatically setting the temperature in a room equipped with an infrared heater. Its advantage is in heating the surrounding objects, and the thermostat makes it easier to control this process.

Types of thermostats

Despite the universal nature of the principle of operation of the thermostat, there are several classifications for these auxiliary devices that determine the algorithm for their connection, control and configuration. So, according to the mechanism of action, thermostats can be divided into two large types:

mechanical;
electronic.

Mechanical thermostats are simple and reliable

Reliable and easy to manage mechanical thermostats remind by appearance a plastic box with a lever that controls the temperature parameters. Adds convenience in operation, the presence of a scale, the divisions of which are plotted in increments of 1 degree. Inside the device is a sensitive membrane, the heating or cooling of which form the basis of climate control. The popularity of these models has its own reasons:

the connection scheme does not require special skills and abilities, it is available even to a beginner;
simple design is the key to durability;
relatively low cost in comparison with electronic counterparts.

Electronic thermostats are more modern, but require a special approach

The main features of electronic thermostats are as follows:

displaying information about the settings and ongoing processes on the display screen;
the need for power supply;
push-button or touch panels management;
the ability to program climate indicators for the day or for the whole week;
remote control via mobile application;
connection of additional climatic devices (for example, underfloor heating).

To prolong the life of the electronic device, avoid direct sunlight and avoid drafts in the room.

Connection options

Before proceeding with the connection of the thermostat, it is necessary to make sure that there are favorable conditions for its operation:

heater power does not exceed 3000 W;
the thermostat will be installed at a sufficient distance from the device;
the body of the thermostat will not be exposed to sunlight;
humidity in the rooms is normal.

The standard thermostat connection scheme fits into the framework of the following algorithm:

If it is required to equip two adjacent heaters with a thermostat, then a parallel connection option is used, in which two wires also come to the thermostat from the shield, and a wiring is formed at the output to each of the heaters.

To connect two heating appliances the diagram will look like this

Connection nuances depending on the heater model

The model of the heater will determine the specifics of connecting the thermostat.

Ballu is one of the most well-known manufacturers thermostats

So, the instruction from the manufacturer Ballu contains the following important additions:

the total power of the heaters must not exceed the maximum power of the thermostat;
from the floor to the device, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 1.5 meters;
a layer of insulation is placed under the thermostat, and it is forbidden to close its outer surface with anything to ensure unhindered air exchange.

For infrared heaters of the "warm floor" system, thermostats with a remote sensor are used, which imposes its own characteristics during installation and subsequent connection:

the thermostat is located no higher than 0.5 meters from the floor level;
there are 6 terminals in its design: a pair for "phase" and "neutral", a pair for IR floor heaters and a pair for wires from a remote sensor;
insulation lining is not required, and masking with curtains, etc. will not affect the operation of the device in any way (unlike options with a built-in temperature sensor).

Pursuing self-installation thermostat, care should be taken to comply with elementary safety rules:

the ground loop is made of a conductor of a certain thickness and with little resistance;
the best location for the thermostat is a wall;
in one room - one device;
it should be left open, without masking with fabric, curtains, interior items, etc.

Thus, an infrared heater equipped with a thermostat allows you to save energy, heat the room in advance and facilitate the process of climate control. It is important to correctly connect the thermostat to the heating device. Strict observance of the requirements of the instructions guarantees safe and long-term operation of the device.

Per last years, in our age of high technology, items with minimal electricity consumption for their work acquire special value. These products are especially suitable for heating devices, effectively adjusting their performance. One of these items is a thermostat for a heater. infrared type, which will be discussed in this article.

Types and characteristics of thermostats

A thermostat is a device that allows you to fix the temperature in a room after a certain period of time and at the same time adjust the device settings to the required values. For example, when the temperature reaches a certain figure, the heating is forced to end the cycle. And, conversely, with its decrease, the device resumes its work.

The design characteristics and principle of operation of thermostats can be different. There are two main types of thermostats for heaters:

mechanical;
electronic.

A thermostat for underfloor heating is a device special purpose, which allows you to control and regulate the degree of heating of the floor and air in the room. Basically, every room where underfloor heating is installed is equipped with a thermostat.

The thermostat serves as a guarantor of maintaining the desired temperature in the room. However, manufacturers successfully produce multi-channel type devices, in which each of the channels is responsible for maintaining the heating of its own zone.

The main purpose of the device is to maintain a given temperature regime, which is expressed in the process of its implementation. functional duties, namely:

Switching the heating on and off as the temperature of the floor covering changes (possibly taking into account the air temperature in the apartment).
Inclusion economy mode heating at night or during periods when the owners of the property are absent.
Connecting or disconnecting the system within a given period of time.

Connecting thermostats to electric underfloor heating

connection diagram

This type of floor implies the presence of heating elements in the form of infrared films or a cable that has high resistance and gradually heats up.

Step by step connection guide:

First thing the location where the thermostat will be located is determined.
We draw up a connection diagram.
We consider the layout of all elements. It is recommended to carry out installation in places with access to wires, since the working process of the system requires the presence of a voltage of 220 V.
laying down warm material , you should first consider where the temperature sensor will be placed, since its installation is impossible under furniture or in the minimum proximity to the regulator. The use of infrared film involves mounting the sensor from the wrong side.
After the flooring process is completed you can start with the installation of the thermostat. In a pre-selected location, make a recess in the wall for built-in appliances or make markings on the wall surface when installing an outdoor unit.
We compare the switched type of power regulator with the power level of the heating elements. With a much lower indicator, it is necessary to install a specialized magnetic starter, which is designed to carry out the work process in a 220 V network.
Let's start connecting the wires in a single chain. The connection diagram must be located on the instrument case. Observing all the rules and advice, anyone can collect wires into a single circuit.
In the end you should connect to the mains and check the operability of the entire system. It is recommended to carry out an inspection before the flooring is fully installed, which will allow, if a problem is found, to quickly correct it and easily get to right moment to the heating elements.

Connecting a thermostat to a water heated floor

connection diagram

Although installing a water floor thermostat is not a requirement, many homeowners still install one. This allows you to control the level of warm water flow into the system.

The device can be selected as a mechanical type or electronic. Given the dominance high degree inertness, it is recommended to purchase temperature sensors of air varieties.

Walkthrough:

Primarily we install the temperature sensor. The surface of the wall on which the sensor is placed must never be heated. This can disrupt the overall system workflow. The best option will be the placement of the sensor as close as possible to the thermostat.
Directly in the heating system a specialized servo drive is being installed. Technical device is responsible for the supply of warm water pressure, passing into the circuits.
All wires available, should be connected in one chain.
Customize all items.
Upon completion of installation you should connect to the network and check the performance of the entire structure. To do this, it is necessary to take measurements (about 90-120 minutes) with an ordinary thermometer in the place where the sensor is installed. Correct work should completely exclude fluctuations in indicators or their significant difference.
Work with electricity should be carried out only after the circuit has been de-energized, which will become a guarantee of safety.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other device, a floor heating thermostat has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Among the main advantages of the device are:

Ease of management.
Affordable pricing policy.
Cost savings to pay for electricity.
Ergonomic qualities of the device.
Ease of carrying out installation.
Possibility automatically adjust the system for turning on and off the underfloor heating.
Possibility regulate the temperature.
High quality equipment.
Reliability regulator.
Installed functional memory, which ensures that the setting is retained in the event of a power outage.

There are practically no drawbacks to the device. The main disadvantage is the complexity of the functional programming of the settings system. However, having understood it once during installation, there will be no further difficulties.

Each type of floor has its own type of thermostat.

Types of thermostats

Thermostats are divided into the following types:

Mechanical

A rather simple, uncomplicated type of device, which is produced in a built-in type case with a rotary switch located on the front side.

To control, you need to turn the switch in a circle. Some manufacturers equip the device with several "stages" of regulation. They are indicated by marker or numerical lists. The functional process is designed exclusively for the manual type of switching on and off. Savings on energy costs are practically absent or kept at a minimum level.

Digital

Quite popular modern look thermostat. Allows you to control at the most precise level. It is produced in the form of an overhead design (or built-in) with push-button or touch system input.

The digital display provides for setting the desired temperature with a minimum degree of error. As an addition, it is possible to have automatic shutdown and setting the power supply a few degrees lower, which will significantly save energy costs.

Programmable

Expensive, but significantly effective device, which is available as an inline type small size, and having the forms of a large panel with a sensitive touch screen.

Gives the chance to installation of the most exact adjustment of working process of heat-insulated floors. To do this, enter the desired work schedule for the time period. The workflow of the device allows you to save a significant level of energy costs.

Combined

Reminds me of a simple regulator block with external system control (external remote control). The mechanical device provides for manual switching on and off of the power supply.

The setting, which implies the presence of an external control panel, makes it possible to bypass the rough installation of the structure on the wall surface. This is an additional advantage in the unique design of the room.

Temperature change sensor

The ordinary type of thermostat is equipped with a single sensor that is used to measure the temperature regime of the floors. However, as practice shows, this is far from the most effective option.

Considering the various conditions for using the underfloor heating system, it is better to use much more complex scheme temperature control.

In the case when the space is heated exclusively from a warm floor, it is recommended to control the temperature regime by means of air heating sensors.

If used indoors flooring in the form of parquet, linoleum or, then the possibility of overheating should be excluded in advance, namely, to avoid an increase in temperature above 25 degrees. In this case, it is more expedient to purchase and install a sensor designed to measure the floor temperature difference.

Regulators are divided into the following types (according to sensors):

With built-in sensor which measures temperature.
With the possibility of connecting an outdoor type sensor which will control the temperature.

Devices that are designed to connect several sensors are used as the main type of space heating. By purchasing a digital type of device, you can easily control the temperature of floor coverings.

Be sure to have a normal section of the thermostat cable. If there is wiring from the old days, it is much safer to install a separate line that will go from a specially designated machine.
When using the thermostat to heat several rooms at the same time, it should be remembered that temperature control will be possible only in the room where the sensor is located. For this reason, problems with temperature changes are possible.
The use of a single regulator is strongly discouraged. in rooms with opposite operating conditions (or with a large temperature difference). It will become impossible to achieve the desired heating in all rooms.
The best option would be to use a separate thermostat for each room with underfloor heating.